The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

In Renaissance Italy, the Allesso course was far more than a collection of humble boiled meats. Derived from the Italian lessare (“to boil”), allessi were dishes of poached or stewed meats and vegetables, prepared with care and often elevated through refined presentation or garnishes. In the kitchens of Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to Pope Pius V, even the simplest allesso was transformed into a work of culinary art.

Unlike the more theatrical roast course that often followed, the Allesso course was meant to be soothing, nourishing, and elegantly restrained. It reflected Galenic medical principles, which emphasized balance, moisture, and ease of digestion. During our 12th Night 2024 feast, this course included two complementary dishes prepared by Catherine Greenwood: a savory fricassee of rabbit and a rich, dark brodo nero—a black broth flavored with fruit, spices, and wine. These dishes were served together to highlight the contrasting techniques of sautéed and boiled preparations under one thematic course.

Baronial 12th Night (Spiced apples and pears Chiquart's 'On Cookery’, 1420)

Baronial 12th Night – Spiced Apples and Pears (Chiquart’s On Cookery, 1420)

Apples and pears, gently stewed with sugar and spice, were a familiar comfort in late medieval kitchens. This recipe is based on a technique from Chiquart’s Du fait de cuisine (1420), one of the most detailed early 15th-century cookbooks. While Chiquart’s original method called for baking pears in a sealed clay pot among the coals, this modern version keeps the spirit of the dish while adapting it for the home kitchen.

“Again, pears cooked without coals or water...” To instruct the person who will be cooking them, he should get a good new earthenware pot, then get the number of pears he will be wanting to cook and put them into that pot; when they are in it, stop it up with clean little sticks of wood in such a way that when the pot is upside down on the hot coals it does not touch them at all; then turn it upside down on the hot coals and keep it covered over with coals and leave it to cook for an hour or more. When they are cooked, put them out into fine silver dishes; then they are borne to the sick person.
– Chiquart, Du fait de cuisine, 1420

About Medieval Apples and Pears

Apples and pears were staple fruits in medieval Europe, though the varieties differed from what we commonly find today. Period apples were often smaller, more tart, and sometimes used primarily for cooking or cider rather than fresh eating. Pears ranged from firm and cooking-friendly to soft and juicy. Popular varieties in the 14th–15th centuries included costard apples and warden pears.

Modern substitutions:

• For apples: Try Granny Smith, Braeburn, or Jonathan for tartness, or Honeycrisp or Gala for sweetness.
• For pears: Use Bosc or Anjou for a firm texture that holds up well to stewing.

Spiced Apples and Pears – Modern Redaction

• 2 lbs apples and pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
• ¼ cup brown sugar
• ¼ tsp cinnamon
• ¼ tsp anise seeds (optional)
• ¼ cup water

Instructions: Mix fruit slices with sugar and spices and place into a baking dish. Add water and cover lightly. Bake at 400°F for 40–45 minutes, or until tender. Alternatively, place ingredients into a crockpot and cook on low overnight for a more intensified flavor.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

This dish would have been served warm to the ill, the elderly, or simply those desiring something soft and comforting. In a feast setting, it pairs beautifully with crème bastarde, warm bread, or even cheese. It also makes a lovely medieval breakfast or dessert.

Breakfast in the Middle Ages: Stewed fruits were often served warm in the morning — easy to digest, lightly sweetened, and seasonally appropriate.

🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

☕ Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »

Labels: Medieval Recipes, Chiquart, Spiced Fruit, 15th Century, SCA Feast, Apple Recipes, Pear Recipes, Medieval Breakfast Stewed apples and pears with cinnamon and anise, inspired by Chiquart's 1420 cookery manuscript. Perfect for breakfast or dessert.

Creme Bastarde – A Tudor Custard (Harl MS 279, ~1430)

Creme Bastarde (Harleian MS. 279) — Egg-White Custard for Potage or Baked Meats

Updated August 19, 2025 with additional context, serving notes, and a modern recipe aligned to the manuscript.

Creme Bastarde with stewed fruit (apples/pears) — a lovely Twelfth Night pairing.

The Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab. 1430) includes a custard made only with egg whites. It shows up again in later Tudor sources, which hints at how beloved it remained. Romans gave us many egg dishes, but the medieval period is where “custards,” as we recognize them, hit their stride. Some hard-set cousins (like let lardes or milke rosty’s) fell out of fashion; this one reads more like a pourable custard or sauce.

I recently served it at our local Baronial Twelfth Night with stewed apples and pears (pictured above). My own redaction landed very close to Peter Breverton’s version in his Tudor Cookbook—including nutmeg, cinnamon, and a splash of orange-flower water—yielding a light, fragrant custard that flatters fruit. It’s also lovely on its own, or over strawberries and cherries.

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Original Text & Modern Sense

Harleian MS. 279: .Clj. Creme Bastarde.

.Clj. Creme Bastarde.—Take þe whyte of Eyroun a grete hepe, & putte it on a panne ful of Mylke, & let yt boyle; [leaf 26.] þen sesyn it so with Salt an hony a lytel, þen lat hit kele, & draw it þorw a straynoure, an take fayre Cowe mylke an draw yt with-all, & seson it with Sugre, & loke þat it be poynant & doucet: & serue it forth for a potage, or for a gode Bakyn mete, wheder þat þou wolt.

Modern Sense Translation

151. Cream Bastarde. Take a great heap of egg whites and put them into a pan full of milk; bring to a boil. Season lightly with salt and honey. Let it cool, then strain it; add fair cow’s milk and strain again. Season with sugar; aim for both “poignant” (a little sharp) and “sweet.” Serve as a potage, or with baked meats, as you wish.

Technique Notes

The manuscript boils whites in milk, then cools and strains, then enriches and sweetens. To avoid scorching or curdling, a double-boiler is your friend. (Yes, I also sometimes go “grandma method” and let a bit of water ride up the side of the insert—do what keeps it gentle and even.)

Vyande Ryalle (Royal Dish), Harleian MS. 279 — A Cautious Reconstruction

Updated August 19, 2025 with additional sources, context, and a best-guess interpretation.

My thinking cap! Detail from the Luttrell Psalter (British Library Add. MS 42130)

Sometimes in cooking we’re presented with a mystery: a damaged manuscript, a missing line, or a cryptic instruction that leaves us guessing. In Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab. 1430) there are several incomplete recipes. Vyande Ryalle — “Royal Dish” — is one of them. Enough survives to tempt a reconstruction, but not enough to be certain. Below is what I’ve been able to glean, why I suspect a missing element, and a cautious modern interpretation. Consider it a working theory, not gospel.

The Forme of Cury has a similarly named dish but it doesn’t resemble this one. The closest parallel I’ve found is Brawn Ryal in the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163), which repeats many of the same actions and explains ways to color the dish. That parallel is what led me to my “best guess” below.

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What does “Vyande Ryalle” mean?

Vyande/viand could mean any “food” or “dish,” later narrowing toward meat. The Middle English Dictionary also glosses viande as elaborate preparations “boiled in almond milk or wine, thickened and colored yellow.” That aligns neatly with what we see here: almond milk, rice flour to thicken, and a directive to “color the sewe.”

Original Text & Facing Translation

Harleian MS. 279: .Cxlij. Vyande Ryalle.

.Cxlij. Vyande Ryalle. — Nyme gode Mylke of Almaundys, & do it in a potte, & sette it ouer þe fyre, & styre it tyl it boyle almost; þen take flour of Rys & of þe selue Mylke, an draw it þorwe a straynoure, & so þer-with a-lye it tylle it be Chargeaunte, & stere it faste þat it crouste noȝt; þen take [gap: ] owte of grece, & caste it þorw a Skymoure, & colour þat Sewe þer-with; þan take Sugre in confyte, & caste in y-now; sesyn it with Salt & ley þre lechys in a dysshe, & caste Aneys in comfyte þer-on, & þanne serue forth.

Modern Sense Translation

142 – Royal Dish. Take good almond milk in a pot and warm it, stirring until it almost boils. Take rice flour mixed with the same milk, strain it in, and thicken until it’s substantial, stirring so it doesn’t crust. Then take [gap] out of grease and cast it through a skimmer, and color the sewe (sauce) therewith. Add sugar in comfit to taste; season with salt; lay three slices in a dish, strew with anise in comfit, and serve.

Note: The neighboring recipe .Cxlj. Noteye colors a similar almond-and-rice base with the expressed juice of young hazel leaves, and includes minced pork or capon. Hazel leaves are indeed edible when young (foraged greens), which supports “coloring the sewe” with plant juices in this family of dishes.

What might be missing?

The line “take [gap] out of grease, and cast it through a skimmer, and color that sewe there-with” suggests something fried in fat/grease, then used to color (or enrich) the sauce. Possibilities:

• Saffron in grease (a common coloring method), then strained in.
• Meat/fish offal or brawn rendered in grease (cf. Brawn Ryal), strained to tint and enrich.
• Plant juice (e.g., hazel leaves) expressed and combined with grease, though Noteye adds the leaf juice directly.

The Wagstaff Miscellany recipes for Brawn ryal / brawn sypres / brawn bruse align strongly: blanch almonds, make hot almond milk, thicken, season sweet-sour, color with saffron (or other agents), then cut in leches (slices) to plate — and even garnish with anise in comfit, just like Vyande Ryalle. There’s also a Lenten fish version using stockfish soundes and eels, and a spectacular “egg-shell” presentation layered white/yellow/white.

Where does it appear on menus?

Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books places Vyand Ryal in the second course on both a fast-day and a meat-day menu — consistent with a dish that can be prepared either flesh-day (brawn/pork/capon) or Lenten (fish), and colored variously (saffron, plant juices, etc.).

Similar Recipe Titles

Forme of Cury [Rylands MS 7] lists Vyaund ryal with wine or rhenish wine, clarified honey, rice flour, spices, saffron, sugar cypress, mulberries or sanders, boiled “stondyng.” Different formula, same “royal” naming.

Poached Eggs in Sweet Ginger Sauce – Cj. Eyron en Poche (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Poached Eggs in Sweet Ginger Sauce – Cj. Eyron en Poche (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

.Cj. Eyron en poche. - Eggs Poached

This is one of the first recipes I’ve found in Harleian MS. 279 (c.1430) that specifies to “poach” the food. Poaching is a moist-heat cooking method with ancient roots, mentioned as early as De Re Coquinaria and formalized further in cookbooks like Le Viandier de Taillevent. While poaching became popular in the 17th century, here we see it clearly practiced over a century earlier.

My grandmother taught me to poach eggs using a whirlpool method and a dash of vinegar to set the whites—exactly how I approached this recipe. The final dish is delicate and beautiful, the egg nestled in a sweet milk-thickened sauce with saffron and ginger. It looks like a fried egg but surprises with subtle sweetness and savory warmth. Ideal for a luncheon or medieval dayboard!

Opinions varied: one tester wanted it sweeter, another preferred savory, but I enjoyed the balance. I’m tempted to riff on it with cumin or mustard—more like Hennys in Gauncelye.

🍳 Medieval Breakfast Spotlight: Poached Eggs in Ginger Milk Sauce

This early 15th-century dish offers a delicate twist on breakfast eggs. Poached gently and served in a sweet milk sauce seasoned with ginger and saffron, it blends savory and sweet in a surprisingly modern way. Try it with toast soldiers or crisped manchet bread.

Original Text – Harleian MS 279

.Cj. Eyron en poche.
Take Eyroun, breke hem, an sethe hem in hot Water; þan take hem Vppe as hole as þou may; þan take flowre, an melle with Mylke, & caste þer-to Sugre or Hony, & a lytel pouder Gyngere, an boyle alle y-fere, & coloure with Safroun; an ley þin Eyroun in dysshys, & caste þe Sewe a-boue, & caste on pouder y-now. Blawnche pouder ys best.

Modern Translation

Take eggs, break them, and cook them in hot water; then take them up as whole as you may; mix flour with milk, add sugar or honey and a little ginger, and boil all together. Color with saffron. Lay your eggs in dishes and pour the sauce above. Sprinkle with white powder (blanche powder).

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

For the Eggs

• 8 eggs
• Water
• 1 tbsp white vinegar

For the Sauce

• 2 tbsp flour
• 2 cups milk
• 2 tsp sugar or honey
• 1/4 tsp ground ginger
• Pinch of saffron
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Poach eggs using your preferred method. I bring water to a boil, add vinegar, lower to a simmer, create a whirlpool, and gently drop in the egg. Turn off heat, cover, and let sit 5 minutes. Don’t touch it—trust me.
2. While the eggs cook, make a slurry with flour and milk. Whisk until smooth. Add remaining milk, sugar or honey, ginger, saffron, and bring to a simmer. Stir until thickened.
3. Place each poached egg in a dish and spoon sauce around. Finish with a dusting of white powder (optional).

Similar Recipe

Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390):
.lxxxviij. Pochee. Tak ayroun & breke hem in scaldyng hote water, & whanne they ben soden ynowgh, take hem up, & tak yolkes of ayroun & rawe mylke & swyng hem to gyder, & do therto poudour ginger, safroun & salt...

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🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

☕ Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »

A Potage of Roysons – Medieval Apple and Raisin Rice Porridge (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) – Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons – Rice Porridge with Apples and Raisins

🥕 Includes Dietary Notes!

Today's recipe adventure from the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab 1430) explores Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons, a gentle almond-milk-based pottage thickened with rice flour and dotted with apples and raisins.

This dish would likely have appeared during the pottage course of a medieval meal — possibly served warm with bread during Lent or in the infirmary for the ailing. Its flavor is mild, lightly sweetened with fruit, and comforting. I served this version at an SCA breakfast event, and it went over well, though some testers called it “tasty, but not delicious.” And honestly? Same. I’ve made similar recipes that were more complex — perhaps I’m just still not a fan of raisins.

Original Recipe and Modern Translation

Original Middle English (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)	Modern English Translation
Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons.—Take Raysonys, & do a-way þe kyrnellys; & take a part of Applys, & do a-way þe corys, & þe pare, & bray hem in a mortere, & temper hem with Almande Mylke, & melle hem with flowre of Rys, þat it be clene chargeaunt, & straw vppe-on pouder of Galyngale & of Gyngere, & serue it forth.	Take raisins and remove the seeds. Take some apples, remove the cores and peel them. Mash them in a mortar, and mix them with almond milk. Stir in rice flour until the mixture is thick. Sprinkle with powdered galangal and ginger, and serve.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

Ingredients

• 4 apples, peeled, cored, and diced
• 1 cup raisins
• 8 cups almond milk
• 1/2 cup honey (optional, to taste)
• 1 cup rice flour
• 2 tsp ginger (or period Good Powder blend)
• 1/2 tsp salt

Instructions

1. Warm almond milk with honey and ginger in a large pot.
2. Add apples and raisins. Simmer gently until the fruit softens, about 10–15 minutes.
3. Whisk in rice flour and stir continuously until it thickens like porridge.
4. Stir in salt. Garnish with ginger or galangal powder if desired. Serve warm.

The Role of Raisins in Medieval Cooking

Raisins were frequently used in medieval recipes—not just for desserts, but to enrich and sweeten savory dishes as well. They appear in pottages, sauces, pies, and even stews, often alongside almond milk and rice flour. Their inclusion helped balance humors and added perceived nourishment to lean or fast-day meals.

Cooking Method: What “Temper” Might Mean

The original recipe uses the term “temper hem with Almande Mylke,” which may imply either blending or gradual heating. I chose to warm the almond milk with honey and ginger, then cook the fruit in it gently before adding the rice flour to thicken. This method draws out more flavor from the raisins and apple while creating a smooth, creamy texture.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions:
This dish is naturally vegan and gluten-free if prepared with certified rice flour and almond milk.

• For a vegan version: Use maple or date syrup in place of honey.
• Nut-free option: Substitute oat or rice milk for almond milk.
• Camp cooking tip: Premix powdered almond milk, rice flour, and ginger. Add dried apples and raisins on-site with water and heat to serve.
• Texture tweak: Blend the apple and raisins before cooking for a smoother porridge.

🔎 Looking for Similar Recipes?
If you enjoyed A Potage of Roysons, you might also like these other fruit- and almond-based dishes from the same manuscript:

• .lxxix. Apple Muse – Smooth apple and almond milk porridge, no raisins.
• .Cxxxiiij. Apple Moyle – Sweeter version with honey and wine, thickened with rice flour.
• .lxxxv. Gaylede – Almond milk and rice dish with floral notes, suited to fast days.
• .lxviij. Bruet of Almaynne in Lente – Lent-friendly almond milk and raisin stew.
• .xx. Papyns – Early rice custard thickened with almond milk; no fruit, but similar texture.

Apple Moyle - A Sweet Medieval Apple Porridge

.Cxxxiiij. Apple Moyle – A Sweet Porridge of Apples & Almond Milk

Apples belong to the Rosaceae family along with pears, quince, loquat, medlars and yes, roses. It is believed that there has been over 10,000 different apple cultivars that have been developed, many of which are now lost. There are at least 100 different varieties of apples that are grown commercially, but of those, only ten make up 90% of the production in the United States. I find this distressingly sad.

As mentioned in my previous post on .lxxix. Apple Muse it is generally believed that domesticated apples has their origins in Central Asia. Apples are documented as early as 6500 B.C. in Jericho and the Jordan Valley. Theophrastes records in 323 B.C the process of budding, grafting and general tree care of six different varieties of apples that were known at the time.

There are many legends regarding this fruit, the most well-known is that of Adam and Eve wherein Eve tempts Adam to eat of the "forbidden fruit". Apples are well known then, as a fruit synonymous with temptation, a reputation that is apparently well earned.

Hercules is tasked with stealing the golden apples from the Tree of Life as one of his Twelve Labors. Atalanta, was tricked by Hippomenes, losing a footrace and securing a husband, because she stopped to pick up Golden Apples given to Hippomenes by Aphrodite.

Eris, the Greek goddess of discord threw a golden apple into the wedding party of Thetis and Peleus. The apple was inscribed with the word "kallisti", meaning the fairest. Three Goddesses coveted the apple, Hera, Athena and Aphrodite and the task of appointing which of the Goddesses was indeed the fairest fell upon Paris of Troy. It was Aphrodite who promised Paris of Troy the love of the most beautiful woman, Helen of Sparta, if he would appoint her the keeper of the apple. He did, and it was this apple that was indirectly responsible for causing the Trojan War.

Apples were not always associated with lust, love, temptation or sin. In fact, in Norse mythology it is the Goddess Idun who is the guardian of the golden apples that preserved the eternal youth of the Aesir. It is the apple that gave Avalon its name in the legends of King Arthur. The Welsh word for apple is Afal. In the legends of Arthur, apples are associated with very powerful forces of creation, birth, death and rebirth.

Lastly, the ancient Celts believed that apples were to be treasured. Apple blossoms were used as symbols of fertility and would be placed in bedrooms. They were also symbolic of goodwill, integrity and purity and love. There is a myth told of Conle, who received an apple that fed him for a year.

Dietary Notes: Naturally vegan, dairy-free, and easily gluten-free with certified rice flour.

As explored in my previous post on Apple Muse, apples are more than just a pantry staple—they are mythic, symbolic, and deeply tied to culinary history. From the Golden Apples of the Hesperides to Idun’s youth-preserving fruit, their place in mythology rivals their place in the medieval kitchen.

Apple Moyle comes to us from the Harleian MS. 279, and like many medieval dishes, it leaves room for interpretation. My reading suggests a creamy porridge, enriched with almond milk and brightened by saffron and sweet spices. The base is similar to Cxxv - Vyolette, a sweet violet-hued pudding also made with rice flour and almond milk.

🔍 What Does Moyle Mean?

The word “moyle” doesn’t have a direct, surviving culinary definition in modern English, but in the context of medieval cooking, it appears to carry a connotation of softening, mashing, or reducing to a pulp.

It may be connected to:

• Old French “moiller” or “mouiller” – to moisten or make soft/wet
• Latin “mollis” – soft
• Middle English “moillen” – to soften, soak, or mash

In the recipe, the phrase: “...take apples, and pare hem, an smal screde hem in mossellys...” directs the cook to shred apples into morsels and simmer them with rice and almond milk until softened—producing something thickened and spoonable, like a mash or porridge.

📘 Compare to “Apple Muse”

As discussed in the Apple Muse post, “muse” is derived from Middle English and Old French terms for mash, pulp, or purée. Both Moyle and Muse reflect method and texture more than specific ingredients.

• Muse often results in a fully puréed dish
• Moyle retains soft apple chunks within a thickened base

🧠 Historical Insight

These names were likely descriptive rather than fixed titles. A medieval cook might have considered moyle to mean “the soft one” and muse to imply a smoother mash.

If naming them today, you might say:

• Apple Muse = smooth apple-almond porridge
• Apple Moyle = soft apple-and-almond stew with texture

✅ In Summary: “Apple Moyle” likely refers to the soft texture of the finished dish. Like “muse,” it reflects a tradition of sweetened, spiced fruit preparations—served warm, spoonable, and comforting.

Original Recipe – Harleian MS. 279

Nym Rys, an bray hem wyl, & temper hem with Almaunde mylke, & boyle it; & take Applys, & pare hem, an smal screde hem in mossellys; þrow on sugre y-now, & coloure it with Safroun, & caste þer-to gode pouder, & serue forth.

Interpreted Recipe – Apple Moyle

Serves 8 as a breakfast or side dish

Ingredients

• 2 cups almond milk
• 1/2 cup rice flour
• 4 small apples, peeled, cored, diced
• 1/2 cup sugar
• Generous pinch of saffron
• 1 tsp powder douce
• 1/4 tsp salt (optional, but recommended)

Instructions

1. Combine almond milk, rice flour, saffron, sugar, and salt in a saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add diced apples and simmer gently, stirring often, until apples are soft and the mixture thickens (15–20 minutes).
3. Sprinkle with powder douce just before serving.

When was Apple Moyle Served? 

This dish likely appeared during the pottage course of a medieval feast—offered as a soft, nourishing side. It could also be served as a fruit sauce for meat (especially pork or poultry), or as a light first course to stimulate appetite. Leftovers can be stored in the fridge and reheated gently with a splash of almond milk to loosen the texture.

Notes from the Test Kitchen

This dish was a hit with my testers—so much so that there may have been spoon duels over the last bite. I added a pinch of salt, which balanced the sweetness beautifully. This pudding makes an excellent camp breakfast: simple, hearty, and deeply satisfying.

Related Recipes

• Apple Muse – Another medieval apple pudding with rice flour and almond milk.
• Ein Apfelmus (c.1345, Germany) – A richer apple mash with wine and egg.
• Forme of Cury: Appulmoy – Pureed apple with almond milk, honey, and rice flour.

Apple Muse (Harleian MS. 279, ab 1430) – A Medieval Apple Purée with Almond Milk

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) – .lxxix. Apple Muse – Apple Mousse

🥕 Dietary Suggestions: Naturally vegan and dairy-free. Gluten-free with GF breadcrumbs or almond flour.

🍎 Part of our apple series: An Apple a Day – The Use of Apples in Cooking

Apples in the Medieval Kitchen

Apples were a staple in medieval Europe, often used in pottages, sauces, and tarts. While sugar was expensive, apples added natural sweetness to dishes year-round. One beloved variety was the Costard apple, known since the 13th century and sold by costardmongers. Though now extinct, it likely resembled tart, firm-fleshed apples used in cooking today.

Note on the Name: While the term “muse” may look like “mousse,” this dish is not aerated or set. The word comes from Old French mus, meaning a soft mash or purée—closer to applesauce than a modern dessert mousse.

What is a ‘Muse’? In medieval cookery, “muse” referred to a soft, sieved purée—often fruit-based and thickened with bread. While similar in texture to what we might call a mousse today, it wasn’t whipped or set, and was typically served warm as part of a pottage course or early dish in a feast.

Choosing the Right Apples for Apple Muse

Since the original Costard is no longer available, look for apples that are tart and hold their shape:

• Bramley – classic British cooking apple, tart and softening well
• Granny Smith – crisp, sharp, and widely available
• Winesap, Jonathan, or Newtown Pippin – heirloom varieties with rich, balanced flavor

A mix of tart and slightly sweet apples works beautifully. Avoid overly soft varieties like Red Delicious.

Original Recipe

.lxxix. Apple Muse – Take Appelys an sethe hem, an Serge hem þorwe a Sefe in-to a potte; þanne take Almaunde Mylke & Hony, an caste þer-to, an gratid Brede, Safroun, Saunderys, & Salt a lytil, & caste all in þe potte & lete hem sethe; & loke þat þou stere it wyl, & serue it forth.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

Ingredients

• 6 medium apples, chopped
• Water to cover
• 2 cups almond milk
• 4 tbsp honey
• 1–2 tsp red sandalwood powder (or 1 tsp beet powder steeped in almond milk, optional)
• Pinch of saffron
• 4–6 tbsp breadcrumbs (adjust to thicken)

Note on Sandalwood: In medieval cooking, red sandalwood (saunderys) was used for its color, not flavor. It was steeped in hot liquid to extract a rich red hue, then strained out. If unavailable, use beet powder or hibiscus tea as a modern substitute—or omit entirely if saffron is used for color.

Instructions

1. Boil chopped apples in water until soft.
2. In a separate pot, warm almond milk with honey, saffron, and sandalwood (or beet powder). Let steep gently for 5–10 minutes, then strain.
3. Drain apples and puree until smooth. Add to the infused almond milk.
4. Reheat and stir in breadcrumbs gradually until the mixture thickens to an applesauce-like texture.

When Was Apple Muse Served?

This dish likely appeared during the pottage course of a medieval feast—offered as a soft, nourishing side. It could also be served as a fruit sauce for meat (especially pork or poultry), or as a light first course to stimulate appetite.

Humoral Theory and Apple Muse

Under medieval humoral theory, apples were considered cold and moist. To balance these qualities, cooks would add warming elements—like honey, saffron, and spices—to make them more “digestible.” Sugared and spiced dishes like Apple Muse were seen as ideal appetizers, intended to “open the stomach” and prepare it for heavier foods to come.

Serving Suggestions

• Serve in small bowls as an appetizer with extra sugar and cinnamon on top
• Use as a warm fruit sauce for roasted meats
• Top with dried fruits and toasted nuts for extra texture
• Pair with Rastons or wafers as a breakfast dish

🌿 Feast-Friendly Notes:
• Naturally vegan and dairy-free
• Gluten-free with GF bread or almond flour
• Serve warm for best flavor
• Can be made ahead and gently reheated on site

Similar Recipes

• Chardewardon – Pear Custard
• Apple Moyle – Sweet Stewed Apple
• Forme of Cury: Apulmos
• An Apple a Day – Five Apple Recipes

Venison in Broth with Frumenty – Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430)

Venison in Broth with Frumenty (Harleian MS. 279, c. 1430)

Venyson in Broth with Furmenty

Historical Breakfast Note: While a bowl of frumenty—creamy, grain-based, and nourishing—would have been a familiar early meal in period, pairing it with venison makes this dish a bit more luxurious than the average medieval breakfast. Meat was often reserved for feast days, convalescents, or the noble class. Still, both components reflect the idea of “breaking the fast” in the morning: hearty grains to sustain the day, and warming broth for strength and comfort.

What is Frumenty?

Frumenty was a staple hot grain porridge—often served during feasts alongside meats like venison or fish. The word comes from Latin frumentum, meaning "grain." It can be considered a luxurious cousin to modern mashed potatoes or risotto—especially when enriched with milk and saffron.

I used Kamut, an ancient wheat variety with large, nutty grains. Its creamy texture after cooking made this a perfect historical choice. While some modern versions use Cream of Wheat, whole grains give far better results.

Original Recipe – Venyson with Furmenty

Take whete and pyke it clene, and do it in a morter, an caste a lytel water þer-on; an stampe with a pestel tyl it hole; þan fan owt þe holys, an put it in a potte, an let sethe tyl it breke; þan set yt douun, an sone after set it ouer þe fyre, an stere it wyl; an whan þow hast sothyn it wyl, put þer-inne swete mylke, an seþe it y-fere, an stere it wyl; and whan it is y-now, coloure it wyth safron, an salt it euene, and dresse it forth, & þin venyson in a-nother dyshe with fayre hot water.

Modern Redaction – Frumenty (Serves 8)

• 1 cup Kamut (soaked overnight)
• 3 cups water
• 1/2 tsp salt
• Pinch of saffron
• 1 cup milk (or almond milk)

Cook soaked Kamut with salt and saffron until water is absorbed. Stir in milk and cook until creamy.

Original Recipe – Venyson in Broth

Take Rybbys of Venysoun, and wasshe hem clene in fayre water, an strayne þe same water þorw a straynoure in-to a potte, an caste þer-to Venysoun, also Percely, Sawge, powder Pepyr, Clowys, Maces, Vynegre, and a lytyl Red wyne caste þere-to; an þanne latte it boyle tyl it be y-now, & serue forth.

Modern Redaction – Venison Broth (Serves 2–4)

• 1/4 lb venison (or stew beef)
• 1 cup beef broth
• 1 tbsp parsley
• 1/2 tsp sage
• 1/4 tsp pepper
• 2 cloves
• 1/8 tsp mace
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp red wine

Simmer all ingredients until the venison is tender and infused with spice. Great for roaster ovens or slow cookers.

Medieval Breakfast Spotlight: This savory pairing may have been served during late-morning meals or feast days. Frumenty offered sustaining grains while the spiced broth warmed the stomach—a noble start to a hardworking day.

Similar Dishes

• Beef y-Stywyd – Harleian MS. 279
• Frumenty with Purpaysse (porpoise) or salmon – see alternate versions in Harleian MS. 279

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

☕ Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »

Tags: venison, frumenty, medieval breakfast, Harleian MS 279, grain dishes, noble table, historical food, kamut, medieval recipes 🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

Lyode Soppes – An Early Bread Pudding

Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding

Lyode Sops

This is probably one of my very favorite breakfast recipes.

Dan Myers, of Medieval Cookery, once made a comment about the dish Boylede Creme, wondering how it might taste if bread were added. That thought inspired me to dig deeper into the history and origins of bread pudding. If you’re a medieval food enthusiast, a budding cook, or simply curious about what people ate in the Middle Ages, I strongly encourage a visit to his site—it's full of historical detail and beautifully interpreted recipes.

While researching bread pudding, I repeatedly came across the claim that it "probably originated in the early 11th or 12th centuries" and was invented by "frugal cooks looking to use up stale bread." Unfortunately, these often-cited facts were rarely backed up with strong historical sources. However, this recipe from “Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books” (Harleian MS. 279, ab. 1430) offers actual documentation of bread in custard well before most modern references begin.

Lyode Soppes is literally a sop of bread floating in a pool of beautifully thick and sweet custard. It’s also the last of the milk-based pottages I worked with that week, and I believe it may represent one of the earliest true recipes for what we would recognize as “bread pudding.”

What Makes This Dish Different?

Lyode Soppes lacks many of the elements we associate with modern bread pudding—there are no raisins, no cinnamon, no creamy baked texture, and notably, it’s not made in the oven at all. Instead, the star here is the custard. Like Papyns and Creme Boylede, the custard is made from milk and egg yolks, sweetened with sugar, and lightly salted before being thickened gently over heat.

Custards go way back. According to C. Anne Wilson, the Romans “borrowed from the Greeks the idea of combining eggs with milk to form a custard mixture... The ‘flathons’ (flans), ‘crustards’ and other open tarts of medieval cookery again recall the old ‘patinae,’ with the shallow open dish of the Romans replaced by an open pastry crust.”

Original Text

.xxix. Lyode Soppes.—Take Mylke an boyle it, an þanne take ȝolkys of eyroun y-tryid fro þe whyte, an draw hem þorwe A straynoure, an caste hem in-to þe mylke, an sette it on þe fyre an hete it, but let it nowt boyle; an stere it wyl tyl it be somwhat þikke; þenne caste þer-to Salt & Sugre, an kytte fayre paynemaynnys in round soppys, an caste þe soppys þer-on, an serue it forth for a potage.

Modern Translation

Take milk and bring it just to a boil. Separate egg yolks from the whites, pass the yolks through a strainer, and stir them into the hot milk. Return to the fire, but do not let it boil. Stir until thickened. Add salt and sugar. Cut fine white bread into rounds, place them in a dish, and pour the custard over. Serve as a pottage.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

• 6 cups milk
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 8 eggs or 16 egg yolks
• 1/2 to 1 cup sugar (to taste)
• 2 teaspoons salt (scant)
• 8 rounds of bread (I used Rastons)

Instructions

1. Mix the cream and milk in a large pot. Add sugar, salt, and eggs. Stir well.
2. Cook gently over low heat until thickened, stirring constantly. Do not boil.
3. Place 8 bread rounds into a large serving bowl or individual dishes.
4. Strain the thickened custard over the bread.
5. Let sit for 5–10 minutes to allow bread to absorb the custard. Serve warm.

Tasting Notes

I was unsure how this dish would be received by my bevy of taste testers, and they received it much better than I expected. There were a few surprised looks as they tested this dish. The general consensus: “It was good, but not something they would want to try again.” It’s unusual and might fall into the category of “too period to serve at feast.” I liked it—but I can say that it was not to everyone's taste. Use your best judgment.

Custards are fussy dishes that require your attention. I would serve this as a small luncheon or breakfast. To make it more familiar to modern palates, consider adding a bit of sweet powder before serving or garnishing with fruit.

Related Recipes

• Papyns – A Medieval Custard
• Creme Boylede
• Rastons – Medieval White Bread

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🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

☕ Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread (Harleian MS 279)

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread

A loaf baked and sliced into “sops.”

This month I’m focusing on sops and pottages from Harleian MS 279. In medieval cuisine, sops were thick slices of bread soaked in broth and served at the start of a meal—think of the bread on top of French onion soup. Pottages were simple soups or stews, common fare for all classes, yet rarely highlighted in SCA feast menus.

To complement these dishes, I recreated a historical recipe for Rastons—a small, enriched round loaf found in 15th-century manuscripts. Traditionally, the top was cut from the bread like a crown, the crumb scooped and mixed with clarified butter, and then baked again. For my purposes, I simplified this process and sliced the loaf into sops instead.

Wondering how this fits into a medieval day? Rastons can be served in the early morning hours as a sop—bread meant to soak up warm broth, milk, or wine. Learn more in my post on What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Original Recipe – Harleian MS 279:

.xxv. Rastons.—Take fayre Flowre, & the whyte of Eyroun, & the ȝolke, a lytel; þan take Warme Berme, & putte al þes to-gederys, & bete hem to-gederys with þin hond tyl it be schort & þikke y-now, & caste Sugre y-now þer-to, & þenne lat reste a whyle; þan kaste in a fayre place in þe oven, & late bake y-now; & þen with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, & kepe þe cruste þat þou kyttyst; & þan pyke al þe cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with þin knyf, & saue þe sydys & al þe cruste hole with-owte; & þan caste þer-in clarifiyd Boter, & Mille (mix) þe cromeȝ & þe botere to-gedereȝ, & keuere it a-ȝen with þe cruste, þat þou kyttest a-way; þan putte it in þe ovyn aȝen a lytil tyme; & þan take it out, & serue it forth.

Modern Interpretation by Dan Myers at Medieval Cookery:

Take fair flour, egg whites and a little yolk, warm barm (or yeast in ale), and beat them together until thick. Add sugar and let rest. Shape and bake. Cut a crown from the top, crumble the inside, mix with clarified butter, refill, replace crown, and bake again briefly. Serve warm.

My Adaptation:

• 3–4 cups flour (3:1 white to whole wheat)
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 1 cup warm ale (Brown Barrel Bomber, bourbon barrel aged)
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 packet dry yeast

To simulate ale barm, I dissolved dry yeast into warm ale. I then created a sponge by mixing ½ cup flour with the ale, sugar, and eggs, and allowed it to ferment for 20 minutes.

Sponge after proofing 20 minutes

I combined the sponge with the rest of the flour and kneaded it into a soft dough, which I shaped into a round loaf and allowed to rise until doubled. Then I baked it at 450°F for 20 minutes until hollow-sounding and golden.

Soft, tender crumb with a good crust—perfect for slicing into sops.

This bread—er, pastry—was a hit! The crust was crisp, the inside soft and flavorful from the ale. I preferred it even to my usual Manchet or French loaves.

Is Rastons Bread or Pastry?

Jim Chevallier, a noted food historian, points out that Rastons are not technically bread—the addition of eggs classifies them closer to pastry. The term “ratons” in French supports this classification. So while we often treat them like bread, they likely occupied a distinct place in medieval baking.

“CECI N'EST PAS UN PAIN... These were NOT breads. The recipe in question includes egg whites and yolks, reflecting the fact that a raton was a PASTRY.”

🔗 Related Links:

• Baronial 12th Night Feast Menu
• Medieval Cookery by Dan Myers

🍞 Curious About Medieval Bread?

If you’re wondering how Rastons compare to common breads of the Middle Ages, check out my earlier post: On the Making of Bread. It explores what everyday bread looked like, how it was made, and how Rastons fit into the broader medieval baking tradition.

Next Up: I’ll be using these Rastons in a series of posts about medieval sops and pottages. Stay tuned!

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🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

☕ Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »

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