The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

In Renaissance Italy, the Allesso course was far more than a collection of humble boiled meats. Derived from the Italian lessare (“to boil”), allessi were dishes of poached or stewed meats and vegetables, prepared with care and often elevated through refined presentation or garnishes. In the kitchens of Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to Pope Pius V, even the simplest allesso was transformed into a work of culinary art.

Unlike the more theatrical roast course that often followed, the Allesso course was meant to be soothing, nourishing, and elegantly restrained. It reflected Galenic medical principles, which emphasized balance, moisture, and ease of digestion. During our 12th Night 2024 feast, this course included two complementary dishes prepared by Catherine Greenwood: a savory fricassee of rabbit and a rich, dark brodo nero—a black broth flavored with fruit, spices, and wine. These dishes were served together to highlight the contrasting techniques of sautéed and boiled preparations under one thematic course.

Fricassea di Coniglio – Fricassee of Rabbit

Scappi II.94 – To sauté and make various fricassees of hares

When the hare is skinned and eviscerated, take its loin, its ribs and its forequarters, and cut them up into small pieces. Boil them in salted water, then take them out, drain them and fry them in melted rendered fat or salt lard, with or without beaten spring onions. When they are done, serve them with mustard or black broth or some other garish over them.

Modern Redaction (Serves 4)

• 2 cups salt
• Whole rabbit, approx. 2.5 lbs
• Pork fat (e.g., prosciutto stump) or lard for cooking
• 1 chopped onion

Instructions:

1. Brine the rabbit in 2 gallons of water with 2 cups of salt for 6–8 hours or overnight.
2. Cut the rabbit into pieces. Remove meat from the carcass but leave bones in the legs.
3. Render the fat in a skillet. Cook the leg pieces first, followed by the remaining meat until browned. Add onions during the last 1–2 minutes of cooking.
4. Serve hot with your choice of mustard sauce or the black broth below.

Cook's Note: This dish was served at our feast with Scappi’s black broth (see below), but mustard would have also been a historically accurate and flavorful option.

Brodo Nero – Black Broth

Scappi II.252 – To prepare a black broth that can be used like the preceding sauces

Get two pounds of quince, pared and cut up, one pound of raisins and one of prunes, two pounds of muscatel raisins and Slavonian raisins, together, another pound of visciola cherries and morello cherries together, six ounces of bread toasted on the coals, eight ounces of Greek wine, two pounds of must syrup, two pounds of red wine, three-quarters of an ounce of ground pepper, one ounce of cinnamon, another ounce of nutmeg and cloves together, and three ounces of ground mostaccioli. Put all of that into a pot and boil it on the coals away from the flame, with the pot covered. When it is cooked, put it through a filter strainer, adding in four ounces of orange juice. If it is not sweet enough, put in some sugar and heat it as above. Then take it down and let it cool. As a sauce, serve it with sugar and cinnamon over it. However, if you want it for garnishing wild fowl roasted on a spit, keep it thin with a little broth.

Modern Redaction

• 1 quince (or very crisp apple)
• 1 cup raisins
• 1 cup prunes
• 1 cup dried or fresh pitted cherries
• 3 1/2 tbsp grape must (or sapa/vincotto/mosto cotto/balsamic)
• 1/2 cup red wine
• 2 tbsp sweet white wine or white grape juice
• 1/2 tsp pepper
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1/2 tsp nutmeg
• 1 tbsp flour
• 1 tbsp fresh-squeezed orange juice

Instructions:

1. Combine all ingredients except orange juice in a saucepan.
2. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fruit softens and mixture thickens.
3. Strain the mixture and stir in orange juice.
4. Serve warm over fricasseed rabbit or roasted meats.

Optional: Keep the stewed fruit as a compote, or reserve for use in pastries or desserts.

Note: This dish reflects Scappi’s complex approach to sauces—blending fruit, spices, and wine to create both flavor and visual drama.

📚 Sources:

• The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570), Google Books
• Opera Di M. Bartolomeo Scappi, Google Libri

✨ If you enjoyed this post, check out other dishes from our 12th Night 2024 Feast series or explore more from Scappi's Renaissance kitchen.