Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers

Kitchen scene from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1574). Library of Congress.

Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers (Scappi, 1570)

Updated with historical context, vegetarian/vegan alternatives, and TOA interlinks.

At my Tournament of the Arts (2024) luncheon, these went fast. Adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), they’re not meatballs but “fingers”—chunky strips of lean beef, larded, marinated in sweet–sour must and rose vinegar with warm spices, then skewered with sage and bacon and roasted. They’re dramatic, portable, and perfect for camp kitchens, dayboards, or a roast platter. Think Renaissance barbecue—minus the smoke ring, plus saffron glaze.

Original Recipe (Scappi, Opera 1570)

Per fare polpettoni alla romanesca di lombolo di boue, o di uaccina
Get the leanest part of the tenderloin… sprinkle with ground salt and fennel flour or coriander with common spices. Set four lardoons of marbled salt pork in each piece. Place them in a press with that mixture and a little rose vinegar and must syrup for three hours. Then mount them on a spit with a rasher of bacon and a sage or bay leaf between each piece; cook over a moderate fire. When done, serve hot with a sauce of their drippings together with what exuded from them in the press, somewhat thick and saffron-coloured.

Modern Recipe – Polpettoni alla Romana (Beef Skewers)

Yield: 10–12 skewers (serves ~6) · Prep/Marinade: 3 hours · Cook: ~15 minutes

Ingredients

• 2–2.5 lb lean beef (tenderloin ideal; eye of round or flank works)
• 8–10 oz bacon or salt pork, cut into small lardoons/squares
• 1/2 cup must syrup (saba) or grape juice (your version used pomegranate juice)
• 1/4 cup white wine vinegar + 1–2 tsp rosewater (rose vinegar substitute)
• 1 tsp ground coriander or 1 tsp fennel pollen/flour
• 1/2 tsp coarse black pepper
• 1 tsp “common spices” (cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, coriander, saffron)
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 12 fresh sage leaves or bay leaves
• Pinch saffron threads (optional, for sauce color)
• Skewers; grill/broiler or campfire spit

Method

1. Cut & lard: Slice beef into large “fingers” (about 6 oz each or 1×4 in./2.5×10 cm). Tuck small bacon lardoons into each piece (or wrap loosely).
2. Marinate (3 hrs): Whisk must (or juice), vinegar + rosewater, coriander/fennel, pepper, common spices, and salt. Submerge beef; weigh down or press lightly. Chill 3 hours.
3. Skewer: Thread beef onto skewers, alternating with bacon and a sage or bay leaf between pieces.
4. Roast: Grill/broil over moderate heat, turning once, until just done (about 12–15 minutes depending on thickness).
5. Glaze: Pour marinade into a small pan with a pinch of saffron; simmer with the pan drippings until syrupy. Adjust salt and acid. Brush or spoon over skewers to serve.

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Vegetarian/Vegan Variant – “Polpettoni”-Style Seitan Skewers

Yield: 8–10 skewers · Marinade: 1–2 hours · Cook: ~10–12 minutes

Ingredients

• 1–1.5 lb firm seitan, cut into thick “fingers”
• 1/2 cup grape juice (or pomegranate juice), 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, 1–2 tsp rosewater
• 1 tsp ground coriander or 1 tsp fennel pollen
• 1 tsp “common spices” (see above), 1/2 tsp black pepper, 1 tsp salt
• 8–10 sage or bay leaves
• (Optional) vegan bacon strips for smoky notes

Method

1. Marinate seitan 1–2 hours. Thread onto skewers with herbs (and vegan bacon if using).
2. Grill/broil over moderate heat until browned at edges (10–12 minutes), turning once.
3. Reduce marinade to a light glaze; brush to finish. Adjust acid/salt to taste.

Notes & Serving

• Saba vs juice: Saba (reduced grape must) is classic; juice works in a pinch. Pomegranate gives a lively tartness.
• Camp-friendly: Marinate in a bag; grill or spit-roast. Glaze with reduced marinade + drippings.
• Make-ahead: Skewer up to a day ahead; cook day-of. Tastes great warm or room temp.

🥕 Dietary Notes

• Gluten-free: Use GF sides; the main beef recipe is GF as written. (Seitan variant is not GF.)
• Dairy-free: Both versions are dairy-free.
• Allergens: Rosewater sensitivity (rare); gluten in seitan variant.

Part of my TOA 2024 Lunch Menu

This dish is part of the TOA 2024 lunch. I’ll link the menu hub and companion dishes (sauces, fritters, salads) as each post is refreshed.

Sources

• Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera (1570). Plates and kitchen engravings; recipe context.

Labels: Roasted Meats; Medieval Finger Food; Beef; Spices; Herbs; SCA Feast Planning; Camping-Friendly; Renaissance; TOA2024