Showing posts with label Dayboard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dayboard. Show all posts

Comfits and Candies: & Del mele bullito co le noci, detto nucato - Nucato from Anonimo Toscano


Nucato Recipe: A 14th-Century Italian Honey & Nut Confection

The Anonimo Toscano, also known as the Libro della cucina del secolo XIV, is a significant 14th-century manuscript that provides a remarkable window into the culinary traditions of medieval Tuscany. This collection of 184 recipes showcases the ingenuity and artistry of Italian cuisine during this period. Among these, Nucato stands out as a particularly noteworthy confection, crafted from honey and nuts and recorded under the title Del mele bullito co le noci, detto nucato. This delicacy, made by boiling honey with nuts and aromatic spices, has long been associated with festive gatherings and celebrations.

Honey: A Culinary Staple in Medieval Italy

In medieval Italy, honey was more than just a sweetener—it was a prized ingredient valued for both its rich flavor and medicinal properties. Before sugar became widely available, honey played a crucial role in both sweet and savory dishes. Monastic communities were instrumental in beekeeping, producing honey that would be used in everything from pastries to meat glazes. Trade cities like Venice and Florence further expanded access to honey, allowing it to become a staple in households across different social classes.

Nucato exemplifies how honey was combined with warm spices such as cinnamon, ginger, and cloves to create a complex, satisfying confection. The natural sweetness of honey enhances the depth of roasted nuts, while the spices introduce layers of flavor that balance the dish beautifully.

Recreating Nucato: A Taste of the Past

For those interested in bringing a piece of medieval Italy into their kitchen, here is a detailed recipe to follow:

Ingredients:

  • 5 cups high-quality honey
  • 4 cups chopped nuts (hazelnuts, almonds, and walnuts)
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/3 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 pinch ground black pepper

Instructions:

  1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, gently simmer the honey over low heat, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface. This ensures a smooth and pure base.
  2. Stir in the chopped nuts, making sure they are evenly coated with honey.
  3. Add half of the cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and black pepper, allowing the spices to infuse into the mixture.
  4. Cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring continuously to prevent burning. The mixture should thicken and develop a glossy sheen.
  5. Once ready, spread the mixture evenly onto a lightly greased surface. Sprinkle the remaining spices over the top and gently dab the surface with lemon juice to enhance the flavor.
  6. Allow the Nucato to cool completely before cutting it into bite-sized pieces.

Savoring a Medieval Delight

The final result is a rich, chewy confection with a nutty crunch and warm spice undertones, perfect for pairing with spiced wine or a strong espresso. Beyond its delightful taste, Nucato serves as a connection to Italy’s culinary heritage, offering a tangible way to experience the flavors of the past.

Exploring recipes like Nucato not only enriches our understanding of medieval cuisine but also allows us to appreciate the timeless appeal of simple, high-quality ingredients. Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply looking for a unique homemade treat, this traditional Italian confection brings a touch of the past into the present—one delicious bite at a time.


I got help from Grammarly to create this blog post. 


(German) - Lebkuchen - Gingerbread

 Originally published Oct. 10, 2022


Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin (c. 1553)

Cookies! Who doesn't like a good cookie? With the cultivation of sugar in the 7th century, came cookies, or rather, test cakes that were used to test the temperature of an oven.


When we think of cake, a dense, bread-like product that is sweetened with honey, and perhaps flavored with nuts and fruits is not what we think of. However, this is an apt description of the earliest cakes. They were a food that was made to last many months.


According to Etymology, the word "cake" comes from the Old Norse kaka, which derives its roots from the West Germanic *kokon, from the Middle Dutch "koke" or Dutch "koek" meaning a cake or gingerbread dumpling. Its earliest usage is in the 13th Century, referencing a flat or thin bit of baked dough. The cakes that we are familiar with come into existence sometime in the middle of the 19th Century.


How did cakes become cookies?


In the early 1800s the word cookie is referenced in American English, in the sense of a "small, flat, sweet cake" from the Dutch koekje a diminutive of koek.


Ammonia Cookies - Hartshorn


I have seen some rather pithy debates over the use of hartshorn in the period, and this prompted me to do a little bit of research on the Food History Timeline (foodies--if you are not using this resource you are missing out). Here is what I found:


Ammonium carbonate, aka Hartshorn, Baker's Ammonia, or, hirschhornsalz, is a substance that is extracted from deer antlers. Hart is the term applied to a male deer, also known as a stag. It is reputed to have a very pungent odor which dissipates when cooked.


How was hartshorn made?


To create hartshorn cooks would heat and pulverize the horns. Once ground it could be added to baked goods where it would act similar to baking powder does today. When heated, it produces ammonia and carbon dioxide gas that lifts the dough as it escapes creating a light, springy texture.


Is hartshorn period for the SCA?


The earliest recipe I was able to locate is for Hartshorn Jelly, from a book published in 1659 purportedly a collection of recipes from as early as the 15th century. The author of this collection, Leonardo Fioravanti died in 1588. The style of writing is similar to the writing of the time that I am familiar with, but I am NOT the expert, based on what I have discovered, it is plausible. More research needs to be done.

℞. Two ounces of Hartshorn being small rasped, and a pint of fair water, one Nutmeg sliced, one race of Ginger, a branch of Rosemary, boyle all these together in an earthen Pipkin over a soft fire, till it be very clammy, then strain it into a Bason, and put to it Rosewater and Sugar.

Original Recipe


Gút lezelten zú bachen


Nim am ersten ain pfúnd zúcker, ain qúertlin geleúterts

honig, nit gar ain fiertellin mell/ nim 5 lot rerlen, 3 lott negellen,

4 lott kerner/ gestossen, die andere wirtz schneid

aúffs klainest, die rerlen aúfs grebest gestosen, thú jmber

aúch darein/ vnnd thú zúcker in das honig, lasß es mitainander

sieden, thús mell jn ain múolter, geúsß die kerner am

ersten ein, darnach den jmber vnnd dan die andern wirtzen.


Interpretation


#151 To bake good Lebkuchen


Take first a pound of sugar, a quart of clear honey, not quite a third quart of flour, take two and a half ounces of cinnamon, one and a half ounces of cloves, two ounces of cardamom. Cut the other spices as small as possible, the cinnamon sticks are ground as coarsely as possible. Also put ginger therein and put the sugar into the honey, let it cook together, put the flour in a trough, pour the cardamom into it first, afterwards the ginger and the other spices.


Ingredients


¾ cup honey

¾ cup sugar

½ cup flour

3 tbsp. cinnamon

¼ tsp. cloves

1 ½ tsp ginger - fresh if you can get it

½ tsp cardamom


Instructions


  1. Mix together flour, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and ginger.

  2. In a heavy-bottomed pan add sugar and honey and slowly heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. NOTE: If scum rises to the top, skim it off. This is normal when using honey.

  3. Heat the honey and sugar mixture together until small bubbles begin to form and the syrup starts to get foamy. Approximately ten minutes.

  4. Make a hollow in the flour and spice mixture and gently pour the honey into the hollow. Stir gently until well mixed. NOTE: This is a very sticky dough, and you may be tempted to add more flour. If you must, only add enough to allow the dough to form and no more.

  5. Set the dough aside and allow it to cool for about 15 minutes.

  6. While the dough is cooling, cover a cookie sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 275 degrees.

  7. Dust hands with flour (do not forget this step or you may end up regretting your life's decisions--this dough sticks to everything!), rough your dough into a log, and section off pieces of it using a bit of waxed, unflavored floss.

  8. Pick up a bit of the sectioned-off dough, roll it into a ball and place it on the cookie sheet. You will want to space them about 2 1/2 to 3 inches apart. Push an almond into the top of your cookie and bake for about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container while still slightly warm.


Thoughts


OMG! These are a sticky mess, but ohhhssssooooo worth it!! They are spicy and chewy and delicious. They would be excellent to bring with you on a camping trip and are modern enough in flavor that even the most discriminating cooking connoisseur will not complain.


You do want to store them while they are still warm so they remain soft. These cookies keep for a very long time. Do try them.


Sources


"An Exact Collection Of The Choicest And More Rare Experiments And Secrets In Physick And Chyrurgery (Both Cymick And Galenick) Viz. Of Leonard Phioravant, Knight And Doctour In Physick And Chyrurgery, His Rational Secrets And Chyrurgery &C. : Whereunto Is Annexed Paracelsus's One Hundred And Fourteen Experiments : With Certain Excellent Works Of G.B. Áa Ortu Aquitano ; Also Isaac Holandus, His Secrets Concerning His Vegetal And Animal Work : With Quercetanus His Spagyrick Antidotary For Gun-Shot : Also Certain Collections Out Of Some Manuscripts Of Dr. Edwards And Other Physitians Of Note ...". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A41325.0001.001/1:39.9.6?firstpubl1=1640;firstpubl2=1660;rgn=div3;singlegenre=All;sort=occur;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=hartshorn. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.


"Cake | Etymology, Origin And Meaning Of Cake By Etymonline". Etymonline.Com, 2022, https://www.etymonline.com/word/cake. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.


Crew, Kitchen. "The History Of Cookies". Just A Pinch, 2022, https://www.justapinch.com/blog/articles/read/209514/the-history-of-cookies/. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.


"Das Kochbuch Der Sabina Welserin (C. 1553)". Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen, 2022, https://www.uni-giessen.de/fbz/fb05/germanistik/absprache/sprachverwendung/gloning/tx/sawe.htm. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.


"Sabrina_Welserin.Html". Daviddfriedman.Com, 2022, http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.