Uva in Salamoia – Pickled Grapes for a Renaissance Antipasto

 

Uva in Salamoia – Renaissance Pickled Grapes

🥕 Gluten-free, vegetarian (vegan if sugar is bone-char free)

Pickled grapes ready to be served

In Renaissance kitchens, grapes were often served fresh, described by color (white or black), and used for sweet or savory contrast. This recipe, though not found in Scappi or Domenico Romoli directly, draws on 17th-century English and Italian preservation methods to create a sweet-sour pickled grape that pairs beautifully with rich dishes like crostata, cheese, or roasted meats.

Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – Renaissance Chicory Salad with Raisins & Shallots

Insalata di Cicorea Bianca, Scalognetti Freschi – White chicory salad with fresh shallots and raisins
— From the 16th‑c. Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook

Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – chicory salad served at Baronial 12th Night Feast

This vibrant bitter-sweet salad was served during the Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina course of the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. Inspired by a 16th-century Hungarian court manuscript known as the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook, it reflects a moment when Italian culinary sophistication influenced kitchens far beyond the Alps. The recipe calls out the Italians by name — praising their simplicity while offering a Hungarian twist.

This recipe comes from the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid-16th c.), preserved in Hungarian sources and available via MedievalCookery.com. It reflects Hungary’s cosmopolitan court culture under rulers like Gabriel Bethlen, where Italian culinary practices were deeply admired and adapted  

Historical Background: A Transylvanian Culinary Lens

The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook was compiled in a culturally rich period when Transylvania — then a principality of the Kingdom of Hungary — absorbed diverse culinary influences from Italy, the Ottoman Empire, and the German-speaking world. Courts under princes like Gabriel Bethlen and György Rákóczi I cultivated both humanist learning and refined dining. Italian food was especially admired, and references in the manuscript highlight its prestige.

🌍 Cross-Cultural Influences in the Transylvanian Court Kitchen

The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook reflects a sophisticated fusion of culinary traditions. While Italian cuisine is explicitly referenced, the manuscript shows clear signs of diverse influence:

• Ottoman Cuisine: Spiced meats, rice, pickled fruits, and sweet-sour pairings suggest Turkish and Persian inspiration.
• Germanic Traditions: Dumplings, pork fat, and bread-based dishes echo Saxon and Bohemian styles from Habsburg lands.
• Slavic Elements: Fermented dairy, allium-rich dressings, and foraged greens reflect broader East-Central European customs.
• Possible Armenian or Jewish Touches: Sweet-savory sauces with dried fruit and nuts hint at urban Levantine or Sephardic culinary habits.

This layered culinary identity was typical of 16th-century Transylvania, a crossroads of empires and trade. Recipes like this salad — which pairs Italian simplicity with Hungarian technique — exemplify that blending.

“The Italians do it like so: they slice [the chicory] into a pot or a plate, add salt and black pepper, then eat it. We Hungarian chef masters soak this, too.” — Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook

Renaissance Salad Styles

🌿 Renaissance Salad Styles

In Renaissance cookery, the concept of a salad went far beyond leafy greens. Derived from the Latin salata (meaning “salted things”), salads included raw or blanched vegetables, fresh herbs, cooked greens, and even warm dishes — all united by the presence of oil, vinegar, or brine.

Salads during this period often reflected Galenic medical theory, which emphasized balancing the four humors through food. Certain greens were considered cooling and moist, while others were hot and dry — and preparation methods were used to correct imbalances.

• Simple Salads – Raw herbs or greens, lightly salted or drizzled with oil
• Soaked Salads – Bitter greens or roots soaked to soften their bite or draw out excess moisture
• Composed Salads – Layered or marinated salads with ingredients like dried fruit, onions, and vinegar
• Herbed Salads – Complex mixtures of aromatic herbs, flowers, and sometimes spices
• Cooked Salads – Blanched or sautéed greens such as lettuce or spinach, often served warm and dressed, considered more digestible per Galenic principles

This dish blends the soaked and composed styles, pairing the bitter, cooling properties of chicory with the warming sweetness of raisins and the sharpness of shallot, all softened in a steeped vinaigrette. The balance of humors and textures makes it both medically appropriate and gastronomically appealing for a Renaissance table.

Italian vs. Hungarian Approaches

The manuscript’s author explicitly compares methods: Italians salted and dressed their chicory simply, while Hungarian chefs preferred to soak it. This extra step likely softened its bitterness and made it more palatable for guests unused to raw greens. The use of shallots and raisins adds both flavor complexity and textural contrast, demonstrating the court’s elevated approach to even humble ingredients.

The Role of Salads in Feast Structure

In formal Renaissance banquets, salads were often part of the Credenza (pantry-style) or Antipasti di Cucina (kitchen-prepared) courses. Their placement early in the meal aligned with medical advice — balancing digestion and setting the stage for heavier fare. This salad, with its bitter greens, aromatic vegetables, and tangy dressing, served as a perfect counterpoint to bot of the crostata's and pickled grapes also offered in this service.

Salads for Peasants, Merchants, and Princes

Not all Renaissance salads were created equal. Across early modern Hungary, salad preparation and presentation reflected both social class and medical belief:

• Noble Courts: Chicory, fennel, and imported greens were paired with raisins, citrus, or aromatic vinegars. These salads were layered, often steeped, and served early in formal meals to stimulate digestion.
• Merchant Households: Seasonal greens like cabbage or wild sorrel were tossed with onions, vinegar, and local oils. They mirrored court recipes in form but not luxury.
• Peasant Tables: Raw herbs and greens — if eaten — were foraged or grown and often dressed only with salt or a splash of vinegar.  In some European regions, fermented dairy or whey may have been used as a simple dressing. In Hungarian folk cooking, foraged greens like sorrel, nettles or dandelions were mixed with sourmilk or tejföl (fermented cream). Although these practices are not codified in noble cookbooks, they are part of practical traditions that have been handed down via oral tradition.

Over time, noble recipes filtered downward, simplified by necessity but retained in memory. This salad's bittersweet profile — once elite — became a rustic staple in many regional cuisines.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

• 1 large radicchio or white chicory, thinly sliced
• 1 cup shredded red or white cabbage
• 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• ½ shallot, thinly sliced
• ½ cup red raisins (or halved red grapes)

Dressing

• ½ cup raisins
• ½ shallot, minced
• 2 tbsp vinegar (balsamic or red wine)
• ¼ cup extra‑virgin olive oil
• Salt & pepper, to taste

1. Toss salad ingredients in a large bowl.
2. In a separate bowl, combine raisins, shallot, vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil and let steep.
3. Just before serving, drizzle dressing over the salad and serve immediately.

Humoral Properties of Chicory

Chicory (Cichorium intybus) was widely praised in Renaissance herbals and medical texts for its cooling and drying qualities. According to Galenic theory, it helped balance excess choler and bile, soothed the liver, and stimulated digestion. Bitter foods like chicory were often served at the beginning of a meal to “open the appetite.” When paired with vinegar, oil, and sweet elements like raisins, it formed a well-balanced and elegant dish.

Renaissance Salad Comparison by Region

Region	Salad Base	Dressings	Cultural Notes	Extant Recipes
Italian States	Chicory, endive, lettuce, fennel	Olive oil, vinegar, salt, herbs	Served early in meals for digestion; emphasized freshness and refinement	Lettuce - a cooked lettuce salad served with green sauce
Hungary (Nobility)	Chicory, fennel, radicchio, cabbage	Olive oil, vinegar, raisins, shallots	Adapted Italian forms; emphasized balance of bitter/sweet and humoral properties	White Chicory Salad (Modern Redaction)
England	Lettuce, spinach, herbs, flowers	Vinegar, oil, sugar, citrus juice	Often layered with nuts, dried fruit, and sweet-sour dressings; herbal and floral salads appeared in elite dining	Pepys To Make Buttered Wortes – Pepys 18
Germanic Lands	Cabbage, cress, herbs	Vinegar, lard, egg yolk	Hearty, rustic, influenced by monastic and beer culture	Salat – Aromatic Medieval Herb Salad
Ottoman Territories	Herbs, purslane, onions	Lemon juice, yogurt, oil, sumac	Rich sweet-sour profiles; integrated medicinal herbs	Purslane Salad – Medieval Recipes

🥕 Dietary Notes

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan: ✔️
• Gluten‑Free: ✔️
• Galenic balanced: Bitter greens offset by sweet fruit and sharp aromatics

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Historical References

• Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid‑16th c.): includes “Chicory salad… The Italians do it like so…” and a list of 1603 feast menus 
• Chicory in Galenic medicine: see John Gerard’s Herbal (1597), and Mattioli’s Commentarii (1544)
• Banquet structure and salad use in Renaissance Europe: Platina, Scappi, and Romoli

Crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito - To prepare a crostata of mushrooms

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – To prepare a crostata of mushrooms for a day in Lent
— Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina, c. 1560

Translation Note: The phrase “in prestito” literally means “on loan” or “borrowed.” In Renaissance Italian culinary texts, it often referred to fast days — especially during Lent — when meat was forbidden and meals were offered in spiritual observance. A “giorno in prestito” was thus a day “loaned to God,” requiring dietary restraint but still calling for skilled, satisfying cookery.

Note: Scappi’s crostata method (likely recipes 221–222) typically included soft cheese and eggs. Though recipe 223 is titled “for a fast day,” it references that base without explicitly removing dairy, leading some modern interpretations (like this one) to keep the cheese. Historically, a true Lenten version would omit cheese and use dairy-free alternatives such as almond-based fillings.

In the heart of an Italian Renaissance kitchen, a crostata wasn’t just a pastry — it was a vehicle for showcasing the season’s best ingredients, shaped by time, place, and religious calendar. This particular recipe, Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito, comes from Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th century) and was written specifically for a “day in Lent” — when meat and animal fats were forbidden, but richly savory dishes were still expected at noble tables.

🍄 What Mushrooms Did Renaissance Cooks Use?

The original recipe refers to morels and to "the mushroom that grows at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes," which was described as firm and orange-tinted. This likely refers to chanterelles or possibly Caesar’s mushrooms (Amanita caesarea), both highly prized in the Italian Renaissance for their flavor and availability in oak or chestnut woodlands.

Mushrooms were considered acceptable fare on Lenten days because they were "neither fish nor flesh" and grew from the earth like vegetables. However, because mushroom poisoning was a genuine concern, most cookery books urged boiling wild mushrooms before use—even if it dulled their flavor.

Modern Substitutions

If fresh morels or chanterelles are not available, a good blend of cremini, oyster, shiitake, or portobello mushrooms works well. Mixing mushroom varieties provides depth and richness that mimics wild foraged flavors. Dried morels or porcini reconstituted in warm water are also excellent for layering in that "woodland" taste.

Tip: Avoid standard white button mushrooms for this dish—they lack the earthiness that Renaissance cooks prized in their “funghi di bosco.”

Renaissance Herbs and Flavor Pairings

Herbs were not simply seasoning — they were medicinal, seasonal, and intentionally paired with ingredients based on their humoral qualities. Mushrooms were considered “cold and moist” in Galenic terms, so cooks balanced them with “warm and dry” herbs like parsley, thyme, marjoram, mint, or sage. In Lenten cookery, the brightness of lemon and the lift of fresh herbs helped transform otherwise heavy or plain components into elegant, aromatic fare.

Lent Across Renaissance Europe

Italian Renaissance kitchens handled Lenten restrictions with creativity and abundance. Meat and animal fats were forbidden, but olive oil, vegetables, herbs, and often fish or shellfish remained fair game. Dishes like this crostata show how satisfying “meatless” cuisine could be — rich in umami, layered with textures, and full of complexity.

Compared to northern regions like England or the Low Countries, where fasting meant salt fish, ale pottage, or butter-thickened gruel, Italian cooks had a Mediterranean bounty to draw from. Almond milk, pine nuts, mushrooms, and wild greens allowed even the most devout households to enjoy sumptuous meals — legally and liturgically.

What Does “Crostata” Mean?

The word crostata comes from the Italian root crosta, meaning “crust”, which itself derives from the Latin crusta, meaning “hard outer shell” or “rind.” Related terms in Latin include crustulum (a little cake or pastry — root of the word crustulum/crustule, used in medieval Latin cookery). 

By the 15th–16th centuries, crostata in Italy referred broadly to: 

• Open-faced baked tarts (savory or sweet), made with a pastry base and visible fillings 
• Savory pies (enclosed or partially enclosed) 
• In some regional or culinary contexts: toasted bread or “crusted” slices used as a base or vehicle for toppings — particularly in fast-day preparations 

This broader use was recognized by: 

• Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.), where crostata is used interchangeably with “pan ghiotto” (gourmand bread) 
• Scappi’s Opera (1570), where crostate appear throughout menus as both rich tarts and layered bread dishes 

In both cases, the "crust" or "base" was essential — whether that meant baked pastry or well-toasted slices of bread, depending on ingredients, season, and occasion..

Both Domenico Romoli in his La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.) and Bartolomeo Scappi in his monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) include dozens of crostate — some encased in pastry, others built upon slices of bread or served open-faced in pans. For instance, Scappi describes crostate of vegetables, meat, cheese, or fish that are either baked in crusts or arranged on slices of toasted bread (Scappi, Book II, recipes 211–225).

In this recipe, the crostata is described as “pan ghiotto” — gourmand or luxurious bread — layered with savory toppings. The base is toasted or crusted bread, not pastry, aligning with Romoli's phrasing and period practice.  This usage parallels the French term “croûte” (as in en croûte), meaning food served on or enclsed in crusted bread or pastry.  All descend from the same Latin root - crusta - and highlight the central role of crust in both structure and flavor. 

While we might associate “crostata” today with sweet fruit tarts, its Renaissance meaning was far more versatile, often bridging the line between pastry and hearty antipasto.

It was served as part of the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 feast, a transitional course featuring hot, savory appetizers. This crostata balances rustic simplicity with complex flavor: mushrooms sautéed with herbs and garlic, layered atop crisp bread and soft cheese. Its inspiration comes directly from the forest floor — a celebration of the humble mushroom elevated to banquet fare.

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – Mushroom Crostata for a Lenten Day

Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop | Baronial 12th Night 2024 – Secundo Servito, Antipasti di Cucina

This savory mushroom crostata was one of four composed appetizers served during the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. The dish draws on Italian Renaissance sources like Domenico Romoli's La Singolare Dottrina, and is noted specifically as appropriate “per un giorno in prestito” – for a Lenten day. It’s vegetarian, full of woodland flavor, and easily adapted to suit modern dietary needs.

Feast Context

This antipasti course served as a flavorful bridge between cold pantry items and heavier meat dishes in a formal Italian Renaissance banquet. The mushroom crostata was served alongside:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – Gourmand bread with pork jowl or prosciutto – by Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Plated antipasti course with crostate, salad, and pickled grapes – 12th Night 2024

Original Text

223. Get morels or else the mushroom that grows in the woods at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes, which is round and firm and tends toward an orange colour. The safest thing is to bring them to a boil in water, though they are much more flavorful raw. In any case, whether raw or cooked, peel them carefully, beat them small with a knife and saute them in oil. Then get those ingredients used in recipe 222, adding in beaten and sauteed spring onions or else a small clove of garlic. Make up a torte with them in the way outlined in the above recipe.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette, sliced into ¾-inch diagonal slices
• Olive oil (for drizzling and sautéing)
• 1 lb mushrooms (cremini or wild, sliced)
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• ½ lb ricotta or other soft cheese
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Toast baguette slices until golden. Drizzle with olive oil.
2. In a skillet, heat more olive oil and sauté mushrooms, green onions, and garlic until tender.
3. Stir in lemon juice, thyme, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Spread ricotta onto each toast slice. Top with mushroom mixture.
5. Drizzle with additional olive oil. Cut each toast in half and serve warm.

Humoral Theory and Fasting Cuisine

Renaissance cooks operated under the framework of Galenic dietetics, which held that all foods had qualities — hot, cold, moist, dry — that affected the body’s balance of humors. Mushrooms were considered cold and moist, and thus could dampen digestion or cause melancholy if consumed without proper balance. To counteract this, recipes often paired them with warming, drying herbs like thyme, pepper, or mint, and used cooking methods like sautéing in oil to adjust their temperament. Even Lenten dishes like this crostata were not just about following rules — they were about preserving harmony in the body, especially during seasonal transitions and spiritual observances.

Notes and Substitutions

This is a rustic dish, originally made with wild mushrooms like morels or chestnut woodland varieties. The method is straightforward—chop, sauté, and season well. The addition of ricotta is a nod to Renaissance *torte* fillings, even though the Lenten version may have omitted it. 

Dietary Suggestions:

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan Option: Substitute vegan ricotta or herbed cashew cheese
• Gluten-Free Option: Use gluten-free toast or polenta rounds

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Serving Suggestions

While Renaissance cooks didn’t serve crostate with “sides” as we think of them today, dishes like this were part of a richly varied course of hot antipasti. To replicate the experience, consider pairing with:

• Insalata di cicorea – bitter chicory greens with raisins and shallots
• Uva in salamoia – pickled grapes to offset the fat and salt
• Another crostata, such as mushrooms in pastry for variety
• Soft cheese with herbs or small fried cheese fritters
• Savory eggs or bite-sized sausages
• Fried bread with sugar and cinnamon as a bridging flavor

This crostata is best served hot, but does well at room temperature. Ideally it would be served as part of a shared platter or buffet-style second service of antipasti di cucina.

🍽️ Explore the Full Antipasti Course

• Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto
• White Chicory Salad with Raisins and Shallots
• Pickled Grapes

📘 Historical References

• Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina (Venice, 1560s) – Culinary guide for household stewards. Referenced crostata of mushrooms and "pan ghiotto".
• Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Comprehensive Renaissance cookbook. See: Book II (Crostate Recipes).
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Pan Ghiotto con Barbaglia – Scappi’s Renaissance Crostate with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto (1570)

Secundo Servito – Antipasti di Cucina (Second Service of Kitchen Appetizers)

Crostate di barbaglia, crostata di funghi, insalata di cicorea, and uva in salamoia — prepped and ready for service at 12th Night.

In the structure of a formal Italian Renaissance feast, the second course was not necessarily the heaviest—it was often a bridge between light pantry offerings and more substantial meat dishes. This Secundo Servito, or Second Service, featured Antipasti di Cucina: hot or composed savory appetizers prepared fresh from the kitchen, in contrast to the simpler cold antipasti di credenza served earlier.

These warm antipasti were designed to stimulate the appetite and prepare the body for digestion according to Galenic principles—the humoral theory that governed much of Renaissance cooking. Dishes often balanced sweet and sour flavors, incorporated herbs for digestive support, and reused day-old bread or preserved meats to show both economy and elegance.

Our 12th Night Second Service of Antipasti took inspiration directly from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 1570 masterpiece Opera dell’arte del cucinare. This course was curated and prepared by Jennifer Bishop, with generous contributions from Dan Parker, who substituted his homemade bacon in place of prosciutto with delicious results.

Served in the Second Antipasti Course:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – “To prepare crostate—that is, gourmand bread—with salted pork jowl or prosciutto”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – “To prepare a crostata of mushrooms (for a fast day)”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Each dish reflects Renaissance preferences for layered flavors and textures—toasted bread with rich toppings, sharp greens softened with sweet fruit, and preserved grapes offering a tart palate cleanser. The mushroom tart, notably, is drawn from Scappi’s frequent practice of offering giorni di magro (fast day) variants for religious observance.

Did You Know? Scappi’s antipasti courses regularly included both meat and vegetable preparations, showcasing not just opulence but also culinary mindfulness—adapting to dietary restrictions and balancing the humors.

🍞 Crostate – Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto

Course: Second Service – Antipasti di Cucina
Source: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)
Modern Redaction: Jennifer Bishop (with homemade bacon courtesy of Dan Parker!)
Serves: 16
Tags: Renaissance, Appetizer, Pork, SCA Feast

📜 The Original and Modern Translation

Scappi’s Original (1570)

Friggasi [le fette di pane] in butiro, overo in lardo liquefatto, et habbiasi barbaglia di porco tagliata in fette, overo presciutto, et soffrigganosi nella padella con cipollette battute, et cime di salvia, et come saranno soffritte, pongasi in esse un poco di aceto, et mosto cotto, over zuccaro, et pepe, et cannella, dandovi una calda, et habbianosi apparecchiate le fette del pane nel piatto bagnate con un poco di grasso caldo, et pongansi sopra la barbaglia o il presciutto, con l’altre materie, et servansi calda.

Modern Translation

Fry the bread in butter or melted lard. Slice the pork jowl or prosciutto and sauté in a pan with spring onions and sage tips. When done, add a little vinegar, reduced must or sugar, pepper and cinnamon; heat well. Arrange the toasted, greased bread slices on a platter, top with the jowl or prosciutto and the sauce, and serve hot.

🥄 Modern Recipe (Serves 16)

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette—sliced into 3/4-inch slices on a diagonal
• 8 thin slices prosciutto (or homemade bacon), halved
• 1 leek or spring onion, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp dried or fresh minced sage
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• Pinch of cinnamon
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp water
• 2 tbsp mosto cotto (grape must syrup)
• Extra-virgin olive oil or melted lard for frying

Instructions

1. Toast the baguette slices in a skillet with olive oil or lard until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2. Sauté the prosciutto or bacon with the sliced leek and sage until lightly browned.
3. Add vinegar, sugar, water, mosto cotto, pepper, and cinnamon. Simmer until the liquid thickens slightly into a sauce.
4. Arrange toasted bread slices on a serving platter. Spoon the meat mixture and sauce over each slice. Serve warm.

🍇 Bonus Recipe: Mosto Cotto (Grape Must Syrup)

Yield: About 1 small jar

• 4 pounds fresh grapes (any dark variety)

1. Wash grapes and remove them from the stems. Crush to extract juice (use a food mill, juicer, or your hands).
2. Strain juice through a fine mesh sieve or muslin to remove skins and seeds.
3. Pour the juice into a heavy-bottomed pot and simmer gently until reduced by one-third.
4. The syrup should be thick and coat a spoon. It will continue to thicken as it cools.
5. Pour into sterilized jars. Some age it up to 24 months, but it's ready to use once cooled.

🍽️ Dietary & Service Notes

• Contains: Gluten, Pork, Alliums
• Vegetarian Version: Omit the pork and replace with sautéed mushrooms and walnuts (for feast day adaptation)
• Feast Service: Best served warm on platters, pre-assembled and sauced
• Labels: Antipasti, Appetizer, Renaissance, Pork

Pizza di Molti Strati – A Renaissance Baklava-Style Pastry with Elderflower & Rosewater

Despite the familiar name, this 16th-century “pizza” from Scappi bears no resemblance to modern flatbreads. Instead, it’s a delicate multi-layered pastry, brushed with butter, dusted with sugar and elderflower, and bathed in rosewater syrup. It’s likely a descendant of early Middle Eastern “baklava”‑style desserts—transmitted along Silk Road routes and adopted by Italian Renaissance cooks.

Historical Background

The tradition of layered pastry desserts originates in Middle Eastern and Byzantine cuisines. A 13th-century Arabic confection called lauzinaj—almond paste wrapped in ultra-thin dough and drenched in syrup—was an early ancestor to European versions. Phyllo dough itself traces back to Ancient Greek and Ottoman pastry techniques.

By the 16th century, Italian cooks like Scappi adapted the concept into a simplified “cold layered pizza,” blending Western sugars, elderflower, and rosewater into a visually striking—yet humble—pastry.

A Historical Journey Through Layered Pastry

This “pizza di molti strati” connects to a rich, layered history of syrup-drenched pastry desserts—evolving from Greco-Roman flat cakes to Byzantine, Arabic, and Ottoman specialties, finally taking elegant form in Renaissance Italy.

• Greco-Roman plakous & placenta – Layered pastries with dough, cheese, and honey. Cato the Elder’s placenta cake describes alternating layers of dough and cheese, baked and sweetened with honey.
• Byzantine koptoplakous – A nut-filled, syrup-drenched cake from Constantinople, widely regarded as an early form of baklava. Cited in culinary studies on Byzantine dessert culture.
• Arabic lauzinaj – Medieval almond paste pastries wrapped in thin dough and scented with rosewater. See: Scents and Flavors – Early Baklava Recipe.
• Ottoman Baklava & Phyllo Mastery – Ottoman chefs refined paper-thin dough layering in imperial kitchens. Syrups, nuts, and floral waters became standard. See Baklava – Wikipedia.
• Italian Renaissance Adaptation – Scappi’s 1570 *pizza di molti strati* replaces nuts with elderflower, and introduces a cold-serving presentation. It reflects Italy’s interpretation of a global dessert tradition.
  🍽️ What’s in a Name? A Slice of Pizza’s Etymology
  
  The word pizza may conjure images of tomato sauce and cheese—but its linguistic roots tell a far older story. The earliest known use dates to 997 CE in a Latin document from Gaeta, Italy, referring to a simple “focaccia”-style bread. But where the term *actually* comes from remains debated:

  • Ancient Greek pikte ("fermented pastry") or pitta ("flatbread")
  • Latin pinsa (from pinsere, “to press or flatten”)
  • Old High German bizzo or pizzo (“a bite” or “mouthful”)
  • Italian pizzicare (“to pluck” quickly from the oven)
  • Even Aramaic pita, referring to flatbread

  Linguists and food historians—like Jim Chevallier—have explored these etymologies in depth. In Scappi’s 1570 *Opera*, “pizza” still referred to a layered or folded pastry, not the tomato-covered dish we know today.
  
  Source: Linguistic and historical research courtesy of Jim Chevallier. For more, see discussions on Facebook and works on bread and early pizza history.

Original Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

“Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati: pigli uno foglio di pasta tirata sottile... tra ciascuno spargi burro, zucchero, ed erbe di sambuco... e quando è cotta servi fredda con zucchero e acqua di rose.”
—Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)

Modern English Translation

“To make a pizza of many layers, commonly served cold: take a sheet of pasta rolled out thin... between each one sprinkle butter, sugar, and elder flowers... and when it is cooked, serve cold with sugar and rosewater.”

Renaissance Kitchen Imagery

Woodcut from Scappi’s Opera (1570), showing layered pastry prep and kitchen tools.

“Pizza di Molti Strati” Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Ingredients

• ½ pack filo (phyllo) dough (homemade if time allows)
• ¼ lb butter, melted
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 Tbsp dried elderflower
• Rosewater, to drizzle

Method

1. Preheat oven to 400 °F (or follow filo package instructions).
2. Keep melted butter warm. Lay one sheet of filo in a greased tart pan.
3. Brush with butter, dust with sugar & elderflower. Layer three sheets, then repeat until 12 sheets are used, finishing with sugar & elderflower.
4. Slice into triangles. Bake until golden brown.
5. Let cool, then serve cold with a drizzle of rosewater.

If serving a small group, homemade phyllo is highly recommended—it adds freshness and flavor.

🌸 Floral Flourishes:
Elderflower and rosewater were prized in Renaissance kitchens for their fragrance and humoral balance. In this pastry, they elevate simple layers into something aromatic, symbolic, and beautiful.

Trays of Pizza di Molti Strati and Mele Cotogne stufate con pignoli, acqua rosa, e zuccaro — quince stewed with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar — ready for service at Flaming Gryphon 12th Night, 2024.

Want to make this for your next feast? Try homemade filo—it’s elegant, surprisingly satisfying, and perfect with a cup of warm spiced tea.

Primary Source Access

• Scappi’s Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Archive.org
• Full Italian Text on Google Books (1570 Edition)

Piatti de marzapani frigiati di oro - Plates of golden fried marzipan

Plates of Golden Fried Marzipan: A Renaissance Delight from Messisbugo

Among the lavish sweets presented at the 12th Night 2024 feast were these exquisite morsels: golden fried marzipan parcels inspired by Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s 16th-century banquet manual. As a court steward to the Duke of Ferrara, Messisbugo carefully documented not only recipes but the artistry of elite Renaissance dining. One such recipe, Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro, reflects both culinary skill and a love for edible ornament.

Original Italian (Messisbugo, 1549)

Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro: Prendi marzapane, et fanne certi tondi o quadrelli, et involgili in una sfoglia sottile fatta di pasta, et friggili con buon strutto caldo; et cavati che saranno, spolverizzali di zucchero, et ponli in piatti, et sopra vi metterai dell’oro fino, se vorrai fare bella cosa.

English Translation

Plates of golden fried marzipan: Take marzipan and form small rounds or squares. Wrap them in a thin pastry sheet, and fry them in good hot lard. Once they are removed, sprinkle with sugar and place them on dishes. If you wish to make a beautiful presentation, place fine gold on top.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8–12)

Ingredients

• 1 frozen pie pastry (or homemade pastry dough)
• 1 1/2 cups almond flour
• 1 cup powdered sugar
• 3 tbsp water
• 1 tsp rosewater
• 1/2 tsp "common spices" (e.g., cinnamon, clove, nutmeg)

Instructions

1. Roll out the pie pastry as thin as possible.
2. Mix together almond flour, sugar, water, rosewater, and spices to form a soft marzipan dough.
3. Cut pastry into rounds or squares. Add 1 tsp of filling to each, fold over and seal.
4. Fry in hot oil until golden. Drain and sprinkle with sugar before serving.

Historical Context: Marzipan in Italian Renaissance Cuisine

Marzipan was considered a luxurious ingredient in Renaissance Italy, associated with wealth, celebration, and spectacle. Made from almonds and sugar—both costly imports—it was often shaped into elaborate sculptures or used in gilded dishes like this one. Serving it fried and topped with gold or saffron was a way to display status and culinary refinement.

The origins of marzipan are widely debated. Some trace it to the Middle East, introduced into Europe via Arab-Spanish cuisine, while others credit Italian apothecaries who sold almond-based pastes as medicinal treats. By the 15th and 16th centuries, it had become a staple of courtly desserts across Italy, Germany, and Iberia.

Research Note: This modern interpretation was informed in part by the Italian historical food blog Cucina Medievale, a trusted source for Italian Renaissance culinary research and one of our favorite reference sites.

Source Access

The original recipe appears in Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s Banchetti, composizioni di vivande et apparecchio generale (Venice, 1549). A digitized facsimile is available via the Internet Archive. (Note: the searchable text may be corrupted, but the PDF version is accurate.)

See all dishes from the 12th Night 2024 feast by browsing the 12th Night tag or checking out this collection.

Related Recipes: You might also enjoy Struffoli: Honeyed Fried Dough, another Renaissance sweet served alongside the marzipan at this feast.

Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

🍯 Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

Honeyed Struffoli with Candied Fruit, Served with Marzipan at the 12th Night 2024 Feast
A modern interpretation of Scappi’s 16th-century recipe, these golden morsels were served as part of the appetizer selection.

As part of the 12th Night 2024 feast, guests were greeted with beautiful trays of struffoli — crisp, golden morsels glazed in warm honey and crowned with jeweled candied fruit. This appetizer, adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 16th-century cookbook Opera, captures the festive spirit and elegant artistry of Renaissance banquet tables.

🍽️ Explore the Full Feast: See the complete 12th Night 2024 Menu to discover other historical dishes served during the event.

Scappi was a master cook to Pope Pius V, and his recipes reflect the sophistication of high court cuisine in Italy. These honeyed fritters, served cold, would have dazzled diners with their texture and ornamentation. The original text appears in Libro Quinto, Cap. CXXXV, and can be found in resources like Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina.

Scappi’s Original Italian (Cap. CXXXV):

Attanfi dieci oua fresche nate di quel giorno, & impastinsicon esse fior di farina alquanto piu liquida della fopradetta, & per fpatio di mezz’horasia ben rimenata sopra la tauola, & poi distendasi essa pasta in ruotoli sottili, come se si volesse fare ciambellette...

...con un coltello si taglierà e i ruotoli a dadi, & tagliati che saranno in gran numero, si lasceranno alquanto rasciugare, & poi con strutto che non sia troppo caldo, si friggeranno, avvertendo che non piglino troppo colore, & con la cocchiara forata cavisino, e si lascino scolare, poi habbisi una cazzuola con mele schiumato che sia ben caldo, & frigghifino in esso mele, dandoli una volta, & subito si cavino, & cavati che saranno, faccinsene castelli, & altre fantafie, & servinofreddi.

🍋 Modern Recipe: Honeyed Struffoli (Serves 8)

This version of struffoli preserves the festive spirit of Scappi's recipe while adapting it for a modern kitchen. These delightful bites can be made ahead and assembled just before serving.

Ingredients

• 2⅔ cups flour
• 4½ tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• Pinch of salt
• 2 medium eggs
• ⅔ cup sugar
• Zest of 1 orange
• Zest of ½ lemon

For Garnish

• 1⅓ cups honey
• Silver or gold sprinkles
• Candied cherries
• Candied orange peel

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, combine flour, softened butter, salt, sugar, citrus zest, lemon juice, and eggs. Mix vigorously by hand until a rough dough forms.
2. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3. After chilling, divide dough into 1 cm wide ropes and roll out. Cut into small pieces, about ⅓ inch in size.
4. Heat oil to 325°F. Fry pieces in small batches until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
5. Warm honey gently in a pan. Add the fried pieces and stir to coat.
6. Arrange on a platter in a mound or ring. Garnish with sprinkles and candied fruit. Serve at room temperature.

Storage Tip: Fried dough can be made up to 2–3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container and glaze with honey just before serving.

🧾 Translating Scappi: Then vs. Now

Scappi’s original recipe begins with a rich dough made from “ten fresh eggs of the day,” kneaded with fine flour until soft and elastic. Our modern version keeps the egg-based richness, but scales it for today’s kitchens—using two eggs along with butter and citrus for added aroma and softness.

Scappi instructs the cook to roll and cut the dough into “dadi” (dice), which are dried slightly and then fried in strutto (pork fat). We preserve the shape and technique but fry in neutral oil at 325°F for ease and availability. Once cooked, the pieces are tossed in “skimmed honey,” a process mirrored in our version by gently warming the honey and folding the fritters in until glazed. His final flourish—stacking the morsels into “castles and other fancies”—is echoed in our presentation, topped with candied fruit and festive sprinkles.

📚 Inspiration

This recipe was inspired by La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli and Scappi’s Opera, foundational texts in Renaissance culinary tradition.

Try Another Dish from the Feast: Don’t miss our recipe for Tortelletti d’Herba alla Lombarda, a savory herb-filled pasta that accompanied these sweet fritters at the table.

Tags: 12th Night, SCA Feast, Historical Recipes, Renaissance Cooking, Bartolomeo Scappi, Medieval Appetizer, Struffoli, Italian Holiday Food

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro)

This dish was featured in the Arrosto Course at our 12th Night feast—a hearty Renaissance soup using “Turkish squash,” adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Secondo libro (Chapter 220).

The Singular Doctrine (La Singolare Dottrina) of Domenico Romoli offers a unique window into Renaissance feast planning. This early 16th-century treatise provides monthly banquet menus, richly detailed with courses designed for specific occasions, balancing seasonality, variety, and symbolic meaning.

The January Banquet Menu — Morning Service

 The 12th Night  menu was inspired by Romoli’s January banquet for twenty-four guests, served with three “choppers” (set meals). His detailed menu for January includes a fascinating array of dishes, highlighting seasonal ingredients, complex preparation techniques, and artistic presentation:

• Zambella Biscotta and Berlingozzo Fresco: Traditional breads served with the bread service
• Pignoccate and Ciambellette Dorate: Specialty fried dough and donuts
• Marzapani Frigiati di Oro: Golden fried marzipan sweets
• Carniscioni a Figure: Decorative savory pastries
• Morselletti di Napoli: Biscuit-like specialties from Naples
• Bericocoli di Siena: Traditional sweet dishes paired with wine

...and many more including stewed fruits, meat dishes, and elegant roast preparations.

Understanding the Singular Doctrine Recipe and Feast Structure

The Singular Doctrine as articulated by M. Domenico Romoli nicknamed Panunto presents Renaissance recipes and feasts as flexible, technique-focused guides rather than strict formulas.

• Seasonal and Monthly Organization: Menus are tailored to the ingredients available in each month, ensuring freshness and harmony with nature.
• Course and Service Sequencing: Detailed breakdowns guide the flow of dishes—from breads and sweets to roasts and fruits—designed for balanced pacing and presentation.
• Implicit Ingredient Listings: Ingredients are often embedded in the instructions rather than separately listed, reflecting the expectation of experienced cooks to understand proportions and techniques.
• Emphasis on Technique and Adaptability: Recipes emphasize process and sensory cues, encouraging cooks to adapt based on local availability and personal judgment rather than rigid measurements.

This method contrasts with modern recipe writing but reveals a rich tradition of culinary artistry where the cook’s skill and intuition were central.

Connecting Romoli’s Doctrine to Our 12th Night Feast

The 12th Night feast drew inspiration from Romoli’s doctrine, blending historical authenticity with practical adaptations:

• Incorporating Scappi’s Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche (Turkish squash soup) as a seasonal, hearty dish
• Featuring breads and sweets like Pani di Latte e zucchero & brazzatelle to honor traditional bread services
• Using detailed recipes from historic sources linked to Romoli’s dishes (pignoccate, marzipan sweets, and more)

This layered approach enriches both our culinary exploration and educational storytelling.

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro, Cap. CCXX)

Original Historic Recipe (Italian)

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche, cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi

Piglisi la zucca Turchesca nella sua stagione, la qual comincia dal mese di Ottobre & dura per tutto Aprile, & nette che sara della scorza & degl'interiori taglisi in pezzi, & facciasi perlessare, & perlessata che sarattasi con li coltelli, & facciasi cuocere in buon brodo di carne, & marinisi con cascio grattato, & uove sbattute, & si potrࠡncho accommodare con le cipolle nel modo che si accommoda la nostrale sudetta.

Avvertendo che se la zucca sara soda, sara molto migliore, & per conservarla ha da stare in loco asciutto, & arioso, & non ha da esserre busciata in loco alcuno, percioche l'aria la sarebbe putrefare, in questo modo le si potrare scorze secche delle zucche Savonese dope saranno perlessate in acqua caldo & state in ammollo in acqua fredda.

Modern English Translation

To make various dishes with Turkish squash, Chapter 220, 2nd book, Scappi:

Take the Turkish squash in its season, which begins in October and lasts through April. Clean it of its skin and innards. Cut it into pieces and parboil it. Once parboiled, chop it finely with a knife and cook it in good meat broth. Thicken and enrich it with grated cheese and beaten eggs. One can also prepare it with onions in the same manner as our native squash as described above.

Be aware that if the squash is firm, it will be much better. To store them, keep in a dry and airy place without any holes because air will cause them to rot. In this way, one can make dried skins of Savonese squash after parboiling in hot water and soaking in cold water.

Historical Context and Zucchini Substitution

The “zucca Turchesca” referred to by Scappi was likely a firm winter squash, such as the “zucca mantovana,” prized for its texture and storability. For our modern adaptation, we used zucchini, a summer squash, which offers a lighter texture and fresher flavor.

While zucchini cooks faster and has more moisture than winter squash, it still captures the essence of the historic dish and allows us to honor Renaissance cooking with available produce.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Modern Adaptation: Roasted Zucchini Parmesan Soup

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Yield: Serves 4–6

Ingredients

• 3 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
• 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• Cracked black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only (about 1–2 tablespoons)
• 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
• 4 cups good quality meat broth (beef or veal preferred)
• 2 beaten eggs (optional, for enrichment)
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional, for onion variation)

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
2. Arrange zucchini wedges on a baking sheet or shallow dish. Season evenly with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Dot with butter and sprinkle rosemary leaves.
3. Roast uncovered for 20–30 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized, checking after 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot.
5. Remove zucchini from oven. Add to broth, chopping roughly or pureeing for a smoother texture.
6. If using, stir in beaten eggs slowly while gently stirring to prevent curdling. Add onions if desired and simmer gently until softened.
7. Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Notes and Tips

• Zucchini’s softer texture means a shorter roasting time than winter squash.
• Egg enrichment echoes Scappi’s original instructions, adding richness.
• For a heartier version, consider adding root vegetables or using winter squash.
• Use a good-quality meat broth for depth, or substitute vegetable broth for a lighter soup.

Historical Background: Squash in Renaissance Italy

The “zucca Turchesca” (Turkish squash) referenced by Scappi likely denotes a type of winter squash introduced to Europe following the Columbian exchange, though some squash species may have arrived earlier via Mediterranean trade routes.

Squash Varieties of the Period:

• Early Italian cookbooks mention firm-fleshed winter squashes, similar in texture to what we now call “savoy” or “marrow” squash, prized for their storage qualities.
• The text’s emphasis on firm texture and dry, airy storage conditions reflects an understanding of preserving winter squash for extended use through the cold months.
• Italian regional varieties such as the “zucca mantovana” (Mantua squash), known for its thick flesh and mild flavor, or other local heirlooms may have been used.
• The term “Turkish” possibly refers to the exotic origin or the shape/color resembling melons or gourds traded from the Ottoman regions.

Scappi’s recommendation to parboil, chop finely, and cook in rich meat broth with grated cheese and beaten eggs reflects Renaissance tastes for combining local ingredients with culinary sophistication.

Bringing Renaissance Flavors to Your Table

Exploring historical recipes like Scappi’s Turkish squash soup offers a delicious way to connect with the culinary traditions of the Renaissance. Whether you choose to follow the original instructions or adapt with modern ingredients, you’re participating in a rich tapestry of food history.

We invite you to try this recipe, experiment with the flavors, and share your experiences. Cooking history is as much about creativity as it is about preservation.

For more historical recipes and feast inspiration, check out these related posts:

•  To Prepare a Filled Twist 
•  Vaccina Salpresa Alessata, Servito Con Petrosemoto - Cold Pressed and Salted Beef
• Mostaccioli a la Romana - Roman Morsels 

If you enjoyed this post, please consider supporting our work on Ko-fi, where we share exclusive recipes and guides to keep history alive on your table.

Happy cooking and buon appetito!

References

• Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
• Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda - Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style - Scappi

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Herb-Filled Pasta in the Lombard Style — Scappi’s Comforting Winter Classic

This delicate and fragrant dish of tortellini stuffed with sautéed greens, herbs, cheese, and sweet spices originates from Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570), the monumental cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi. Best known as the personal chef to Pope Pius V, Scappi was a master of both elaborate banquets and refined simplicity — and this recipe, nestled in Chapter 179 of his Secondo Libro, showcases the Lombard love of herbs, butter, and subtly sweet notes.

Scappi and the Rise of Pasta in the Renaissance Kitchen

Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570) offers one of the most complete windows into the elite cuisine of late Renaissance Italy — and pasta plays a surprisingly prominent role. While modern perceptions associate early Italian cuisine with bread and stews, Scappi details dozens of pasta forms: tortelletti, tagliatelle, lasagne, gnocchi, and more. He provides both fast-day (Lenten) and meat-day variations, often using rich fillings, egg-based doughs, and flavored broths.

Beyond Pasta: Scappi’s Influence on Italian Cuisine

While Scappi is celebrated for cataloging pasta, his legacy goes well beyond noodles. He formalized kitchen hierarchy, seasonal menu planning, and equipment standards that echoed into the 18th century and beyond. His work documents early uses of parchment paper for baking, cooking with a bain-marie, and even proto-refrigeration techniques using snow. He preserved the culinary knowledge of late medieval traditions while also introducing innovations that bridged the gap to modernity. Scappi’s recipes emphasized not only taste but also visual elegance, hygiene, and timing — principles that continue to shape Italian fine dining today.

His chapter on pasta (including Cap. 177–179) reflects the growing popularity of filled pasta in elite households — a sign of culinary sophistication. Doughs were often perfumed with rose water or sugar, and pasta was sometimes served in sweetened broths or dusted with sugar and cinnamon. These dishes bridged the gap between savory and sweet, medicine and indulgence, humble vegetables, and luxurious presentation.

In the Spirit of Romoli: Doctrine and Daily Table

Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (“The Singular Doctrine”) outlines not only how to cook but also how to organize and serve elaborate banquets across the seasons. His January banquet — which inspired this feast — features carefully curated combinations of hot and cold, dry and moist, light and heavy, always with an eye toward harmony and digestion. Pasta dishes like tortelletti fit perfectly into this philosophy: gentle on the stomach, warming in the winter months, and suitable for both Lenten and meatless preparations, depending on the broth and sauce.

Romoli, like Scappi, reflects the culinary doctrine of the sixteenth-century Italian elite, where food was viewed as an art, a science, and a means to health, all served in silver.

The Lombard Legacy: Herbs, Pasta, and Humoral Balance

Lombardy, located in northern Italy, was renowned throughout the Renaissance for its refined cuisine and affinity for dairy, herbs, and egg-rich dishes. Dishes like tortelletti d’herba reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and the influence of monastic gardens and courtly kitchens. These small-filled portions of pasta, cousins to ravioli and agnolotti, were considered both elegant and nourishing — ideal for feast days or Lenten fare when meat might be restricted, but the richness was not.

The inclusion of sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with sugar and currants, reveals a broader Renaissance fascination with balancing flavors and creating contrasts on the palate — often underpinned by humoral theory. Warm spices helped balance the “cold” qualities of greens, while cheese and egg yolks added “moist” richness. In this way, tortelletti d’herba were more than delicious — they were medicinally appropriate.

Did You Know?
Common greens used in Renaissance kitchens included bietole (Swiss chard or beet tops), spinaci (spinach), and cavolo nero. Herbs like parsley, mint, marjoram, and savory were prized not just for flavor but for their role in digestive and humoral health.

What Herbs and Greens Were Used in Renaissance Tortelletti?

The phrase herba alla Lombarda in Scappi's recipe refers to a familiar blend of leafy greens and aromatic herbs popular in northern Italy during the Renaissance. Common greens included bietole (chard or beet greens), spinaci (spinach), and sometimes cavolo nero (black cabbage). These were often combined with soft herbs like parsley, marjoram, mint, and savory — herbs prized for their digestive and warming properties, aligning with humoral dietary practices of the time. Regional cooks might adjust the balance of herbs depending on season and occasion: more mint and marjoram in summer, more parsley and chard in winter.

We featured this dish as part of the Arrosto course at our 12th Night 2024 feast, where it was served alongside roast beef, sweet mustard sauce, Turkish squash, and jewel-like Renaissance jelly bites. Helewyse de Birkestad adapted the recipe used in her event, Feste di San Martino, and offers a beautifully balanced winter pasta that pairs greens with Parmesan, currants, and spices.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Historical Recipe: Per far minestra di tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Scappi, Opera (1570), Cap. CLXXIX, Secondo Libro

Take beet (chard) and spinach, chop very finely, wash in several waters, and wring dry. Fry them gently in fresh butter, and add a handful of odiferous herbs. Boil briefly, then drain and combine the mixture in a glazed earthen or tinned copper pot. Add grated Parmesan and soft cheese, with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, currants, and enough raw egg to bind. If too soft, add breadcrumbs; if too firm, more butter. Make pasta as described in Chapter 177, shape small or large tortelletti, boil in meat broth, and serve with cheese, sugar, and cinnamon on top.

Modern Redaction (Adapted by Helewyse de Birkestad)

Pasta Dough

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• Pinch of salt
• 1 tbsp butter, melted
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp rosewater
• ~1¼ cups warm water (as needed)

Filling

• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 1 bunch spinach
• Small handful each: parsley, mint, marjoram
• 15 oz ricotta
• 6 oz Parmesan (grated)
• 1–2 eggs
• 1 oz currants
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron to taste

Instructions

1. Make the Dough: Combine flour, salt, sugar, melted butter, and rosewater. Mix with warm water to form a smooth dough. Knead well, then rest covered for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the Filling: Wash and chop the greens and herbs. Sauté in butter until wilted. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor with cheeses, eggs, spices, and currants until a firm but scoopable filling forms.
3. Shape the Tortelletti: Roll pasta thin (second-to-last setting on a hand-cranked machine). Cut into squares or circles. Place small scoops of filling, fold and seal. Shape into tortelletti.
4. Cook: Boil in salted water (or broth) until they float — about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.
5. To Serve: Top with a light dusting of grated cheese, cinnamon, and sugar for an authentic Renaissance finish.

Regional Variations Across Italy

Though Scappi’s version is firmly rooted in Lombardy, filled herb pastas appear across Italy with regional twists. In Emilia‑Romagna, tortelli di erbette are filled with greens and ricotta, often served with sage‑butter. Tuscany offers tortelli maremmani, sometimes incorporating wild greens and nutmeg. Liguria features pansoti made with preboggion (a traditional wild herb mix) and walnut sauce. Each variant celebrates local herbs and fillings while preserving the form’s essential comfort and seasonality.

Notes from the Feast Table

At 12th Night 2024, these tortelletti were part of the Arrosto course with:

• Spit-roasted beef (brisket)
• Turkish squash dishes
• Sweet mustard sauce
• Gelo in bocconcini di più colori (jelly in small bites)

Want More from This Feast?

This recipe is just one part of our 12th Night 2024 Renaissance Feast, inspired by Scappi, Romoli, and the lavish January banquets of Renaissance Italy.

To see the full event menu and explore additional recipes as they’re released, visit the official feast page:

Flaming Gryphon 12th Night 2024 Feast Menu.

Looking for printable cards or a bundled feast pack? Support the project on Ko-fi and stay tuned for downloads!

Italian (Medieval) – Small Plates of Chestnuts in Embers (Domenico Romoli) (Piattelletti di maroni in bragia)

 

Something Sweet and Savory — Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia

Craving a taste of the Renaissance? Here's your ticket— piattelletti di maroni in bragia, or ember-roasted chestnuts, a Renaissance favorite brought to life using ancient cooking techniques for nuts preserved in historic manuscripts.. All it takes is a crackling fire, a bed of embers, and a dusting of sugar and salt. Simple, rustic, and surprisingly delicious.

Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia, which charmingly translates to “little chestnut cakes in the embers,” comes from La Singolare Dottrina, penned in 1560 by Domenico Romoli—better known as Panunto. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not a cake in the modern sense, but rather whole chestnuts nestled in hot ash or coals. And when finished with sugar, salt, and a hit of pepper? Absolute magic. You’ll be asking yourself how something so basic can taste so good.

A decade later, Bartolomeo Scappi featured a similar technique in his masterpiece Opera dell'arte del cucinare (1570)—a true treasure chest of culinary brilliance. Like Romoli, he was all about the ember-roasted chestnuts, but with an extra nudge of seasoning. Both men clearly understood that chestnuts, with just a little fire and flair, could steal the show.

Chestnuts were a staple in Italian kitchens during the 15th and 16th centuries, prized not just for their flavor but also for their versatility. Dishes ranged from sweet to savory, and cooks like Scappi and Romoli perfected techniques still worth learning today.

Romoli (1560) wrote of cooking chestnuts in embers to bring out their natural sweetness, while Scappi detailed "piattelletti", or small chestnut cakes, roasted or cooked directly in ashes or coals. These weren’t just rustic peasant fare—they were refined enough for noble tables during feast days and holidays.

“Maroni si cuociono nel bragia, et servano caldi sopra tovagliuoli bianchi.”
(Romoli, 1560)
“Chestnuts are cooked in embers and served warm on white linens.”

One of the many menu's featuring Chestnuts in Embers from La Singolare Dottrina

So, to keep this delicious bit of smoky history alive, I’ve got two ways you can make them: one straight out of the 16th century, and one fit for a modern stovetop. Fingers crossed I keep the ash to a minimum!

Historic Version: Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia

Ingredients:

• Fresh chestnuts

• Embers or ash

• Sugar

• Salt

• Pepper

Method:

1. Slice an X into the flat side of each chestnut. It’ll stop them from bursting and make peeling a lot easier.

2. Nestle them gently into warm embers—no direct flames, just cozy heat from the coals.

3. Let them roast 20–30 minutes, giving them a stir now and then for even cooking.

4. Pull them out and cool slightly. They're best peeled while still warm.

5. Sprinkle with sugar, salt, and cracked pepper while they’re still toasty.

That’s it. A smoky-sweet snack with just the right amount of warmth and rustic charm. It's a little time travel on a plate.

Modern Kitchen Version: Oven-Roasted Chestnuts with Sugar, Salt & Pepper

Ingredients:

• 1 lb fresh chestnuts

• 1 tbsp sugar

• 1/2 tsp kosher salt

• 1/4 tsp fresh black pepper

• Optional: a drizzle of olive oil or melted butter

Method:

1. Heat your oven to 425°F (220°C).

2. Score each chestnut with an X on the flat side.

3. Roast on a baking sheet for 20–25 minutes, until the shells curl back at the X.

4. Let them cool enough to handle, then peel.

5. Toss warm chestnuts with sugar, salt, pepper—and maybe a little butter or oil, if you’re feeling fancy.

Serve them warm, maybe with a glass of wine or cider. They’re just as welcome on a winter snack board as they are straight from the oven.

A Bit More on the Origins

Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina was more than a cookbook—it was a guide for noble households, covering everything from seasonal menus to food and health advice. Scappi’s Opera, written just ten years later, was the work of a papal chef—six volumes packed with over a thousand recipes and drawings. Where Romoli wrote with a steward’s insight, Scappi brought the precision and flair of a true culinary artist.

Together, they remind us how humble ingredients—like the chestnut—can become something extraordinary with a bit of care and creativity.

Final Thoughts: A Flavor Worth Reviving

Piattelletti di maroni in bragia reminds us that even the simplest ingredients—chestnuts and embers—can create something beautiful and deeply nostalgic. Whether you're drawn to historic Italian chestnut recipes or simply crave traditional chestnut recipes for fall, this ancient treat deserves a comeback.

Would I make these again? Absolutely. There's something so satisfying about cracking into a warm, roasted chestnut and tasting that perfect sweet-savory balance. So next time you see chestnuts at the market, take the leap—you might just discover your new favorite fall treat.

If you love diving into the past like I do, I highly recommend exploring these Renaissance cookbooks:

• 📖 Scappi’s Opera (1570) – full digitized version on archive.org

• 📖 Romoli’s La Singolar Dottrina (1560) – archived scans and translations

These works offer a window into a time when cooking was equal parts sustenance and spectacle.

Sources: 

La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico romoli Sopranominato Panonto dell’ufficio delle Scalco (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://www.google.com/books/edition/La_Singolare_Dottrina_di_M_Domenico_Romo/AiY6AAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=Piattelletti+di+maroni+in+bragia+ (Accessed: 11 April 2025).

The opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://books.google.com/books?id=oF2jsqrWtEkC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false (Accessed: 11 April 2025).

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.