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Showing posts with label Pottages. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pottages. Show all posts

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro)

This dish was featured in the Arrosto Course at our 12th Night feast—a hearty Renaissance soup using “Turkish squash,” adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Secondo libro (Chapter 220).

The Singular Doctrine (La Singolare Dottrina) of Domenico Romoli offers a unique window into Renaissance feast planning. This early 16th-century treatise provides monthly banquet menus, richly detailed with courses designed for specific occasions, balancing seasonality, variety, and symbolic meaning.

The January Banquet Menu — Morning Service

 The 12th Night  menu was inspired by Romoli’s January banquet for twenty-four guests, served with three “choppers” (set meals). His detailed menu for January includes a fascinating array of dishes, highlighting seasonal ingredients, complex preparation techniques, and artistic presentation:

  • Zambella Biscotta and Berlingozzo Fresco: Traditional breads served with the bread service
  • Pignoccate and Ciambellette Dorate: Specialty fried dough and donuts
  • Marzapani Frigiati di Oro: Golden fried marzipan sweets
  • Carniscioni a Figure: Decorative savory pastries
  • Morselletti di Napoli: Biscuit-like specialties from Naples
  • Bericocoli di Siena: Traditional sweet dishes paired with wine

...and many more including stewed fruits, meat dishes, and elegant roast preparations.

Understanding the Singular Doctrine Recipe and Feast Structure

The Singular Doctrine as articulated by M. Domenico Romoli nicknamed Panunto presents Renaissance recipes and feasts as flexible, technique-focused guides rather than strict formulas.

  • Seasonal and Monthly Organization: Menus are tailored to the ingredients available in each month, ensuring freshness and harmony with nature.
  • Course and Service Sequencing: Detailed breakdowns guide the flow of dishes—from breads and sweets to roasts and fruits—designed for balanced pacing and presentation.
  • Implicit Ingredient Listings: Ingredients are often embedded in the instructions rather than separately listed, reflecting the expectation of experienced cooks to understand proportions and techniques.
  • Emphasis on Technique and Adaptability: Recipes emphasize process and sensory cues, encouraging cooks to adapt based on local availability and personal judgment rather than rigid measurements.
This method contrasts with modern recipe writing but reveals a rich tradition of culinary artistry where the cook’s skill and intuition were central.

Connecting Romoli’s Doctrine to Our 12th Night Feast

The 12th Night feast drew inspiration from Romoli’s doctrine, blending historical authenticity with practical adaptations:

  • Incorporating Scappi’s Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche (Turkish squash soup) as a seasonal, hearty dish
  • Featuring breads and sweets like Pani di Latte e zucchero & brazzatelle to honor traditional bread services
  • Using detailed recipes from historic sources linked to Romoli’s dishes (pignoccate, marzipan sweets, and more)

This layered approach enriches both our culinary exploration and educational storytelling.

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro, Cap. CCXX)

Original Historic Recipe (Italian)

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche, cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi

Piglisi la zucca Turchesca nella sua stagione, la qual comincia dal mese di Ottobre & dura per tutto Aprile, & nette che sara della scorza & degl'interiori taglisi in pezzi, & facciasi perlessare, & perlessata che sarattasi con li coltelli, & facciasi cuocere in buon brodo di carne, & marinisi con cascio grattato, & uove sbattute, & si potrࠡncho accommodare con le cipolle nel modo che si accommoda la nostrale sudetta.

Avvertendo che se la zucca sara soda, sara molto migliore, & per conservarla ha da stare in loco asciutto, & arioso, & non ha da esserre busciata in loco alcuno, percioche l'aria la sarebbe putrefare, in questo modo le si potrare scorze secche delle zucche Savonese dope saranno perlessate in acqua caldo & state in ammollo in acqua fredda.

Modern English Translation

To make various dishes with Turkish squash, Chapter 220, 2nd book, Scappi:

Take the Turkish squash in its season, which begins in October and lasts through April. Clean it of its skin and innards. Cut it into pieces and parboil it. Once parboiled, chop it finely with a knife and cook it in good meat broth. Thicken and enrich it with grated cheese and beaten eggs. One can also prepare it with onions in the same manner as our native squash as described above.

Be aware that if the squash is firm, it will be much better. To store them, keep in a dry and airy place without any holes because air will cause them to rot. In this way, one can make dried skins of Savonese squash after parboiling in hot water and soaking in cold water.

Historical Context and Zucchini Substitution

The “zucca Turchesca” referred to by Scappi was likely a firm winter squash, such as the “zucca mantovana,” prized for its texture and storability. For our modern adaptation, we used zucchini, a summer squash, which offers a lighter texture and fresher flavor.

While zucchini cooks faster and has more moisture than winter squash, it still captures the essence of the historic dish and allows us to honor Renaissance cooking with available produce.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Modern Adaptation: Roasted Zucchini Parmesan Soup

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Yield: Serves 4–6

Ingredients

  • 3 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
  • 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • Cracked black pepper, to taste
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only (about 1–2 tablespoons)
  • 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
  • 4 cups good quality meat broth (beef or veal preferred)
  • 2 beaten eggs (optional, for enrichment)
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional, for onion variation)

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
  2. Arrange zucchini wedges on a baking sheet or shallow dish. Season evenly with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Dot with butter and sprinkle rosemary leaves.
  3. Roast uncovered for 20–30 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized, checking after 20 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, bring broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot.
  5. Remove zucchini from oven. Add to broth, chopping roughly or pureeing for a smoother texture.
  6. If using, stir in beaten eggs slowly while gently stirring to prevent curdling. Add onions if desired and simmer gently until softened.
  7. Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Notes and Tips

  • Zucchini’s softer texture means a shorter roasting time than winter squash.
  • Egg enrichment echoes Scappi’s original instructions, adding richness.
  • For a heartier version, consider adding root vegetables or using winter squash.
  • Use a good-quality meat broth for depth, or substitute vegetable broth for a lighter soup.

Historical Background: Squash in Renaissance Italy

The “zucca Turchesca” (Turkish squash) referenced by Scappi likely denotes a type of winter squash introduced to Europe following the Columbian exchange, though some squash species may have arrived earlier via Mediterranean trade routes.

Squash Varieties of the Period:

  • Early Italian cookbooks mention firm-fleshed winter squashes, similar in texture to what we now call “savoy” or “marrow” squash, prized for their storage qualities.
  • The text’s emphasis on firm texture and dry, airy storage conditions reflects an understanding of preserving winter squash for extended use through the cold months.
  • Italian regional varieties such as the “zucca mantovana” (Mantua squash), known for its thick flesh and mild flavor, or other local heirlooms may have been used.
  • The term “Turkish” possibly refers to the exotic origin or the shape/color resembling melons or gourds traded from the Ottoman regions.

Scappi’s recommendation to parboil, chop finely, and cook in rich meat broth with grated cheese and beaten eggs reflects Renaissance tastes for combining local ingredients with culinary sophistication.

Bringing Renaissance Flavors to Your Table

Exploring historical recipes like Scappi’s Turkish squash soup offers a delicious way to connect with the culinary traditions of the Renaissance. Whether you choose to follow the original instructions or adapt with modern ingredients, you’re participating in a rich tapestry of food history.

We invite you to try this recipe, experiment with the flavors, and share your experiences. Cooking history is as much about creativity as it is about preservation.

For more historical recipes and feast inspiration, check out these related posts:

If you enjoyed this post, please consider supporting our work on Ko-fi, where we share exclusive recipes and guides to keep history alive on your table.

Happy cooking and buon appetito!

References

  • Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
  • Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
  • Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.

Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Drawyn Grwel) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .xxiiij. Drawyn grwel - Tempered Gruel
The picture does not do the dish justice. It was much browner in the bowl.

Drawyn Grwel: A Rich and Flavorful Medieval Gruel from Harleian MS. 279

Introduction

After revisiting medieval gruel recipes for an earlier article on gruelle a-forsydde—fortified gruel enriched with pork—I found myself intrigued by a second recipe in the same manuscript. Listed as .xxiiij. Drawyn Grwel in Harleian MS. 279 (ca. 1430), this version takes the idea of gruel even further by incorporating lean beef, fresh herbs, and blood for richness and color. What emerged was not a bland peasant porridge, but a deeply savory, unexpectedly luxurious dish.

This interpretation became an instant favorite among my taste testers. One exclaimed that it “smells like biscuits and gravy in here,” and another insisted I promise to make it again. “Spoon wars” ensued over the last bites. Despite the humble ingredients, this was hearty, flavorful, and worthy of being served at any historical feast or reenactment camp.

In this post, we’ll explore the original Middle English recipe, examine its historical context, and share a practical modern adaptation that keeps its rich medieval soul intact.

What is Drawyn Grwel?

Drawyn Grwel—sometimes translated as “Tempered Gruel” or “Strained Gruel”—refers to a variation of oat soup that was enriched, then drawn through a strainer to create a smooth, refined consistency. This was not everyday peasant fare. The inclusion of lean beef, herbs like parsley and sage, and blood for coloring suggest a dish that had both nutritional and ceremonial importance.

In the culinary vocabulary of the 15th century, “drawyn” meant not only straining but also refining or purifying. Medieval cooks often strained soups and stews to remove tough particles or impurities, resulting in a smoother, more palatable final product. This preparation aligns with the period's emphasis on clarity and refinement in dishes served to noble households or for special occasions.

About Spelling Variations

Spelling in medieval manuscripts was far from standardized, and the word “gruel” is a perfect example. Across different texts, you may encounter it as grewel, gruelle, grwel, or gruell. These variations all refer to similar oat-based dishes and do not reflect distinct recipes. In this article, we preserve the original spelling as found in Harleian MS. 279—“grwel”—to maintain historical accuracy, while acknowledging the broader family of terms that modern readers may search for or recognize.

Historical Recipe from Harleian MS. 279

Original Middle English:

.xxiiij. Drawyn grwel.—Take fayre water an lene Bef, an let hem boyle; an whan þe beef hath y-boylid, take it vp an pyke it, an lete it blede in-to a vessel, an þenne caste þe blode an þe Fleysshe in-to a potte; an þanne caste þer-to Otemele, Percely, & Sawge, an make þer-of an gode grwele; þen draw it þorw a straynowre, an putte it on a fayre potte, an let it boyle; þanne caste þer-to Salt; An ȝif it be nowt brown y-now, take a litil blode an caste þer-to or it be y-draw, an make it broun y-now, an serue it forth.

Modern English Translation:

24. Strained Gruel — Take clean water and lean beef, and let them boil. When the beef has boiled, take it out and pick it, letting it bleed into a vessel. Then place the blood and the flesh into a pot. Add oatmeal, parsley, and sage to make a good gruel. Strain it through a strainer, place it into a clean pot, and let it boil. Then add salt. If it is not brown enough, add a little blood before straining to give it more color, and serve it forth.

Commentary:

This recipe offers a fascinating glimpse into 15th-century culinary practices. The dish starts by boiling lean beef to extract flavor and clarify the meat. The inclusion of blood—both to enrich the flavor and to enhance the color—is typical of the time, particularly in dishes meant to impress or nourish. Oatmeal serves as the base thickener, while parsley and sage provide herbal brightness. The straining step refines the final texture, indicating that this gruel was meant to be smooth, elegant, and suitable for upper-class tables or healing diets.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

  • 4 cups water
  • 1 pound ground beef or finely chopped lean stewing beef
  • 2 cups beef stock
  • 8 tablespoons oats (about 1/2 cup; I used a mix of steel-cut and stone-ground Scottish oats)
  • 1 tablespoon dried parsley or 3 tablespoons fresh
  • 2 teaspoons dried sage or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
  • 2 beef bouillon cubes (optional, for deeper flavor)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. Combine all ingredients in a pot and bring to a gentle boil.
  2. Simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until oats are fully cooked and meat is tender. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
  3. If using a mix of oat types, cook according to the longest recommended time (steel-cut oats take longer).
  4. Skim any foam or scum off the surface as needed.
  5. Season to taste. Serve warm.

Cook’s Notes:

  • Like the previous recipe, I did not strain the mixture. In period, this would have removed bones, hulls, gristle, and the occasional insect—not necessary with modern prep.
  • This version is still richer than likely served historically, but you could easily feed 16 people on a pound of meat if stretching the recipe for feast use.
  • Don’t use rolled oats here. They’re a post-medieval innovation and create a gluey mess in recipes like this.
  • The oats thicken beautifully and impart a toasty, nutty flavor. Combined with the beef and herbs, the final gruel is savory, comforting, and richly satisfying.

This modern version balances historical authenticity with accessibility. The result is a rich, earthy dish that bridges centuries of culinary wisdom. It’s surprisingly filling and deeply savory—perfect for cold weather, medieval feasts, or just a hearty lunch.

Culinary Techniques: Then and Now

One of the key insights from this recipe is the medieval emphasis on purification and refinement. The beef was boiled first—not just to cook it, but to clean it. In an age before refrigeration and industrial sanitation, boiling meat helped remove impurities like dirt, coagulated blood, or bone fragments. This step also created a basic broth that served as the flavorful liquid base of the gruel.

Straining, or “drawing,” was another critical step. It wasn’t simply about texture—it was also about safety and presentation. Straining ensured that bone shards, gristle, or hulls from the oats didn’t make it into the final bowl. The result was a smoother, more visually appealing dish that felt refined, even if made from humble ingredients.

In modern kitchens, we replicate these steps through initial searing or blanching, followed by simmering and fine straining. Tools like mesh strainers, blenders, and cheesecloth make it even easier to achieve the kind of clarity medieval cooks worked hard to produce by hand.

Nutritional and Medicinal Value of Oats in Period

Oats were not only a dietary staple in medieval Europe—they were also considered medicinal. Historical herbalists praised oats for their curative properties, particularly in relation to digestion, inflammation, and skin conditions. Italian herbalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli (1519–1603) described oat broth as a remedy for coughs, gallstones, and skin disorders. He even noted its cosmetic benefits: “Mixed with white lead and used to wash the countenance it makes a clear, attractive complexion.”

German botanist Adam Lonitzer (1528–1586) agreed, calling oats “a useful grain for both cattle and man.” He recommended oat gruel for intestinal regulation, inflammation, and even the treatment of ulcers and fistulas. He emphasized that oats, especially when cooked warm, were a “fortifying source of nutrition.”

These endorsements highlight how a dish like Drawyn Grwel functioned not just as food, but as preventive care—perfect for the sick, the recovering, or those seeking to maintain wellness in difficult conditions.

Taste Test: Modern Reactions to a Historic Dish

It’s one thing to talk about medieval food—and quite another to taste it. When I prepared this modern interpretation of Drawyn Grwel, it completely upended my expectations of what “gruel” should be. The aroma, described by one taste tester as “biscuits and gravy,” filled the kitchen with savory promise.

The dish was unctuous, earthy, and herbal—with the oats lending a mild nuttiness and the beef providing deep umami flavor. The sage and parsley lifted the palate just enough to keep it balanced, and the optional use of blood or drippings made the broth silky and rich.

We didn’t just finish our bowls—we scraped them clean. If gruel has a bad reputation, this version redeems it completely. It’s a dish I’d proudly serve to guests at a historical dinner, SCA event, or a cold winter brunch. And, as promised, I’ll definitely be making it again.

How to Serve Drawyn Grwel Today

While this dish originates from the 15th century, it adapts beautifully to modern serving styles—especially if you're aiming to recreate a medieval ambiance or simply enjoy a nourishing, rustic meal. For reenactment events, SCA feasts, or historical dinners, presentation matters just as much as flavor.

Serving Suggestions:

  • Use wooden bowls, stoneware, or clay pots for authenticity
  • Serve with rustic bread or black rye for dipping
  • Garnish with a small sprig of parsley or a dash of fresh sage
  • Pair with pickled vegetables, cheese, or a mug of ale

This is a one-pot dish that carries both simplicity and elegance. It's hearty enough to stand as a main meal, but also versatile enough to serve in small portions as part of a multi-course medieval menu.

Tips for Stretching the Recipe

As with many medieval recipes, Drawyn Grwel was likely intended to serve many with modest ingredients. If you're preparing for a group gathering or reenactment feast, you can easily scale the recipe by adjusting the oats and liquid content, even while keeping the meat portion minimal.

Portion Planning:

  • 1 pound of meat can comfortably serve 12–16 people when paired with enough oats and broth
  • Using groats or whole grain oats will increase the volume and texture
  • Add extra herbs or seasoning if scaling significantly to keep the flavor consistent

Whether you’re feeding a household or a historical camp, Drawyn Grwel proves that affordable ingredients can still offer memorable meals.

Final Thoughts: Gruel Worthy of a Noble Table

The phrase “medieval gruel” doesn’t usually inspire culinary excitement. But Drawyn Grwel changes that narrative. This dish blends history, nutrition, and flavor in a way that feels both comforting and surprisingly refined. With beef, herbs, and oats transformed through time-tested technique, this is more than peasant fare—it’s a bowl of the past made worthy of the present.

So don’t let the name fool you. Drawyn Grwel is delicious, nourishing, and endlessly adaptable. Whether you’re a historian, reenactor, or curious cook, this is one medieval recipe worth returning to again and again.

Oat History Quick Bites:

  • Raw oats go rancid quickly unless toasted. Steel-cut or stone-ground oats mimic medieval processing best.

  • Rolled oats? Not until the 18th century. Save them for cookies.

  • Ground oats + clean broth = a dish with serious historical roots (and surprisingly modern appeal).

This is not the gruel of Dickensian despair. It’s warm, herb-scented, and deserving of your next feast table, campfire pot, or rainy-day supper. Give it a shot — and bring a big spoon.

FAQs

Can I make Drawyn Grwel without using blood?

Yes. Blood was traditionally used for richness and color, but modern alternatives like beef drippings, dark stock, or Worcestershire sauce can substitute effectively while keeping the dish accessible.

What kind of oats are best for historical gruel?

Steel-cut or stone-ground oats (like Scottish oatmeal) are the best approximations of medieval oat preparations. Avoid rolled oats, which are a modern invention and yield an inconsistent texture.

Can Drawyn Grwel be made vegetarian?

Yes, by substituting the beef with mushrooms, lentils, or textured vegetable protein, and using a rich vegetable broth. It won’t be historically accurate, but it retains the texture and herbal elements.

How do I serve gruel at a medieval event?

Use rustic or handmade vessels, add simple garnishes like herbs, and serve alongside bread, pickled vegetables, or cheese. The key is warmth, texture, and an honest presentation.

What’s the difference between Drawyn Grwel and Grewel Eforced?

Drawyn Grwel uses beef, herbs, and blood, with a focus on straining for smoothness. Grewel Eforced typically uses pork, marrow, and saffron, and is often thicker and more textured. Both are fortified gruels, but with distinct flavor profiles and regional nuances.

Related Recipes:

For to make grewel eforced (Rylands MS 7, 1390)
Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)
.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.

For gruel of fors (Liber cure cocorum, 1430)
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)
For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced (A Noble Boke of Cookry, 1468)
A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)
To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.

To make grewell of forse (Gentyll manly Cokere, ca. 1500)
Gentyll manly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047) (England, ca. 1500)
To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.


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Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
  • 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
  • 1/4 pound ground pork
  • Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
  2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
  3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
  4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
  5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
  6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

  • Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
  • Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

  • Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
  • Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

  • Top with a poached egg for richness.
  • Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

  • Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
  • Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
  • Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

  • Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
  • Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.


To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

🍲 Love historical recipes?

Support Give it Forth and grab a printable recipe card for Gruelle a-forsydde — a nourishing medieval oat and pork pottage from Harleian MS. 279 (ca. 1430). Great for reenactment camps, medieval breakfasts, or feast tables!

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes

Venison in Broth with Frumenty – Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430)

Venison in Broth with Frumenty (Harleian MS. 279, c. 1430)

Venison in Broth with Frumenty - Medieval Recipe

Venyson in Broth with Furmenty

Historical Breakfast Note: While a bowl of frumenty—creamy, grain-based, and nourishing—would have been a familiar early meal in period, pairing it with venison makes this dish a bit more luxurious than the average medieval breakfast. Meat was often reserved for feast days, convalescents, or the noble class. Still, both components reflect the idea of “breaking the fast” in the morning: hearty grains to sustain the day, and warming broth for strength and comfort.

What is Frumenty?

Frumenty was a staple hot grain porridge—often served during feasts alongside meats like venison or fish. The word comes from Latin frumentum, meaning "grain." It can be considered a luxurious cousin to modern mashed potatoes or risotto—especially when enriched with milk and saffron.

I used Kamut, an ancient wheat variety with large, nutty grains. Its creamy texture after cooking made this a perfect historical choice. While some modern versions use Cream of Wheat, whole grains give far better results.

Original Recipe – Venyson with Furmenty

Take whete and pyke it clene, and do it in a morter, an caste a lytel water þer-on; an stampe with a pestel tyl it hole; þan fan owt þe holys, an put it in a potte, an let sethe tyl it breke; þan set yt douun, an sone after set it ouer þe fyre, an stere it wyl; an whan þow hast sothyn it wyl, put þer-inne swete mylke, an seþe it y-fere, an stere it wyl; and whan it is y-now, coloure it wyth safron, an salt it euene, and dresse it forth, & þin venyson in a-nother dyshe with fayre hot water.

Modern Redaction – Frumenty (Serves 8)

  • 1 cup Kamut (soaked overnight)
  • 3 cups water
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • Pinch of saffron
  • 1 cup milk (or almond milk)

Cook soaked Kamut with salt and saffron until water is absorbed. Stir in milk and cook until creamy.

Original Recipe – Venyson in Broth

Take Rybbys of Venysoun, and wasshe hem clene in fayre water, an strayne þe same water þorw a straynoure in-to a potte, an caste þer-to Venysoun, also Percely, Sawge, powder Pepyr, Clowys, Maces, Vynegre, and a lytyl Red wyne caste þere-to; an þanne latte it boyle tyl it be y-now, & serue forth.

Modern Redaction – Venison Broth (Serves 2–4)

  • 1/4 lb venison (or stew beef)
  • 1 cup beef broth
  • 1 tbsp parsley
  • 1/2 tsp sage
  • 1/4 tsp pepper
  • 2 cloves
  • 1/8 tsp mace
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 2 tbsp red wine

Simmer all ingredients until the venison is tender and infused with spice. Great for roaster ovens or slow cookers.

Medieval Breakfast Spotlight: This savory pairing may have been served during late-morning meals or feast days. Frumenty offered sustaining grains while the spiced broth warmed the stomach—a noble start to a hardworking day.

Similar Dishes

Tags: venison, frumenty, medieval breakfast, Harleian MS 279, grain dishes, noble table, historical food, kamut, medieval recipes 🍽 Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

Vyolette: A 15th-Century Violet Almond Custard from Harleian MS. 279

.lxxxxj. Vyolette – Violet Almond Pottage

.lxxxxj. Vyolette – Violet Almond Pottage

.lxxxxj. Vyolette – Violet Almond Pottage

This pottage blends fragrant violet flowers with thickened almond milk and sweet stewed fruits—a historic, lightly spiced dish drawn from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books. While not as beloved as its cousin recipe Cxxv. Vyolette, this warming dish remains visually striking and period-appropriate for a historical reenactment feast.

Original:
.lxxxxj. Vyolette.—Nym Almaunde Mylke, an flowre of Rys, and pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Pepir, Datis, Fygys, & Rasonys y-corven, an coloure it with Safroun, an boyle it & make it chargeaunt; an whan þou dressyste, take þe flowres, an hew hem, an styre it þer-with; nyme þe braunchys with þe flowres, an sette a-boue and serue it Forth.

Interpreted Recipe (8 servings)

  • 4 cups almond milk
  • 1/2 cup rice flour
  • 1 tsp ground ginger
  • 1/2 tsp each ground galingale and pepper
  • 24 figs, minced
  • 24 dates, minced
  • 2 cups raisins
  • Pinch of saffron
  • Fresh violet flowers (Viola odorata), chopped, with sprigs reserved for garnish

Instructions:

  1. Warm almond milk with saffron over low heat until colored.
  2. Add spices, fruits, and simmer until fruit is soft (about 7 minutes).
  3. Whisk in rice flour, stirring constantly until thickened to a porridge consistency.
  4. Cool slightly, fold in chopped violet petals, and serve with violet sprigs on top.

Kitchen Notes

This dish resembles a medieval breakfast porridge more than a dessert. The almond broth is subtly sweet, spiced, and filled with softened fruit. Violet flowers stirred in at the end retain their color and provide a soft floral finish.

Compared to the more custardy version of Cxxv. Vyolette, this is heartier and less dessert-like, but still appropriate for a spring feast or vigil.

Related Floral Recipes

  • Rede Rose – A rose custard with egg yolk and almond milk
  • Cviij. Prymerose – Primrose flower with ginger and saffron
  • Cxxviij. Flowrys of Hawthorn – Prepared in the same style as vyolet

Flower Usage in Medieval Cooking

Violets, especially Viola odorata, were prized for their scent and beauty. They were used not only in sweet syrups but in stews and broths to signal elegance and freshness. Only scented violets were considered culinary-safe in the Middle Ages.

Refer to our full guide: Flavors of the Flower: 5 Medieval Recipes Using Edible Blooms

Edible Flower Safety Chart from Agnes deLanvallei:
Medieval Herbs We Grow Chiefly as Flowers (archived)

Labels: violets, medieval recipe, almond pottage, edible flowers, 15th century food

Further Reading: Of March Violets

Explore the poetic and symbolic legacy of violets in “Of March Violets”, a companion piece reflecting on the fragrance, folklore, and meaning of this beloved bloom in medieval and modern imagination.

Whether you're reconstructing a medieval banquet or adding floral flair to a modern meal, edible flowers are a fragrant and flavorful way to connect with the past. These recipes remind us that beauty and sustenance were deeply intertwined in historical cuisine—and they invite us to continue that legacy in our own kitchens today.

⚠️ Reminder: Always use organically grown or culinary-grade flowers. Never consume flowers from florists or treated ornamental plants.

References & Resources

  • Parkinson, John. Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). A foundational English gardening text blending botanical, culinary, and medicinal knowledge. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653). A 17th-century household manual offering flower-based recipes for food, drink, and medicine. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • MedievalCookery.com. Searchable transcriptions of medieval English and European cookbooks.

Vyolette: A 15th-Century Violet Custard

Vyolette: A 15th-Century Violet Custard

Vyolette custard with fresh flowers

This creamy, lightly floral custard is adapted from Harleian MS. 279, one of the earliest English recipe collections. Violets, celebrated for their sweet scent and gentle flavor, were often used in both food and medicine in medieval Europe.

Original Recipe:
.Cxxv. Vyolette.—Take Flourys of Vyolet, boyle hem, presse hem, bray hem smal, temper hem vppe with Almaunde mylke, or gode Cowe Mylke, a-lye it with Amyndoun or Flowre of Rys; take Sugre y-now, an putte þer-to, or hony in defaute; coloure it with þe same þat þe flowrys be on y-peyntid a-boue.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

  • 1/3 cup fresh violet petals, cleaned and washed
  • 1 cup almond milk or milk
  • 2 tbsp rice flour
  • 1–2 tbsp sugar or honey, to taste

Place petals and milk in a pot on low heat. After 10–15 minutes, once the color has steeped into the milk, add rice flour and sweetener. Stir constantly until thickened to a custard-like consistency. Cool slightly and garnish with fresh violets.

Kitchen Notes

This dish was a unanimous favorite among taste testers. The delicate lavender color and sweet, floral flavor delighted everyone. It’s a perfect springtime offering and has made its way onto the “must serve at feast” list.

Historical & Culinary Notes

  • Violets were often preserved in syrup or candied for use in winter months.
  • John Parkinson, in Paradisi in Sole (1629), wrote that “the blew Violets are much used in Possets, Syrups, and Conserves... and to comfort the heart.”
  • A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653) describes violets in both culinary and medicinal applications, including comfort syrups and conserve of flowers.
  • According to The Garden of Pleasant Flowers, violets were admired for their cooling, moistening properties—ideal for spring dishes in humoral diets.

Related Resources:


⚠️ Reminder: Always use organically grown or culinary-grade flowers. Never consume flowers from florists or treated ornamental plants.

References & Resources

  • Parkinson, John. Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). A foundational English gardening text blending botanical, culinary, and medicinal knowledge. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653). A 17th-century household manual offering flower-based recipes for food, drink, and medicine. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • MedievalCookery.com. Searchable transcriptions of medieval English and European cookbooks.

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread (Harleian MS 279)

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread

Rastons loaf cut into sops

A loaf baked and sliced into “sops.”

This month I’m focusing on sops and pottages from Harleian MS 279. In medieval cuisine, sops were thick slices of bread soaked in broth and served at the start of a meal—think of the bread on top of French onion soup. Pottages were simple soups or stews, common fare for all classes, yet rarely highlighted in SCA feast menus.

To complement these dishes, I recreated a historical recipe for Rastons—a small, enriched round loaf found in 15th-century manuscripts. Traditionally, the top was cut from the bread like a crown, the crumb scooped and mixed with clarified butter, and then baked again. For my purposes, I simplified this process and sliced the loaf into sops instead.

Wondering how this fits into a medieval day? Rastons can be served in the early morning hours as a sop—bread meant to soak up warm broth, milk, or wine. Learn more in my post on What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Original Recipe – Harleian MS 279:

.xxv. Rastons.—Take fayre Flowre, & the whyte of Eyroun, & the ȝolke, a lytel; þan take Warme Berme, & putte al þes to-gederys, & bete hem to-gederys with þin hond tyl it be schort & þikke y-now, & caste Sugre y-now þer-to, & þenne lat reste a whyle; þan kaste in a fayre place in þe oven, & late bake y-now; & þen with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, & kepe þe cruste þat þou kyttyst; & þan pyke al þe cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with þin knyf, & saue þe sydys & al þe cruste hole with-owte; & þan caste þer-in clarifiyd Boter, & Mille (mix) þe cromeȝ & þe botere to-gedereȝ, & keuere it a-ȝen with þe cruste, þat þou kyttest a-way; þan putte it in þe ovyn aȝen a lytil tyme; & þan take it out, & serue it forth.

Modern Interpretation by Dan Myers at Medieval Cookery:

Take fair flour, egg whites and a little yolk, warm barm (or yeast in ale), and beat them together until thick. Add sugar and let rest. Shape and bake. Cut a crown from the top, crumble the inside, mix with clarified butter, refill, replace crown, and bake again briefly. Serve warm.

My Adaptation:

  • 3–4 cups flour (3:1 white to whole wheat)
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • 1 cup warm ale (Brown Barrel Bomber, bourbon barrel aged)
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 packet dry yeast

To simulate ale barm, I dissolved dry yeast into warm ale. I then created a sponge by mixing ½ cup flour with the ale, sugar, and eggs, and allowed it to ferment for 20 minutes.

Rastons sponge fermenting

Sponge after proofing 20 minutes

I combined the sponge with the rest of the flour and kneaded it into a soft dough, which I shaped into a round loaf and allowed to rise until doubled. Then I baked it at 450°F for 20 minutes until hollow-sounding and golden.

Freshly baked rastons loaf

Soft, tender crumb with a good crust—perfect for slicing into sops.

This bread—er, pastry—was a hit! The crust was crisp, the inside soft and flavorful from the ale. I preferred it even to my usual Manchet or French loaves.

Is Rastons Bread or Pastry?

Jim Chevallier, a noted food historian, points out that Rastons are not technically bread—the addition of eggs classifies them closer to pastry. The term “ratons” in French supports this classification. So while we often treat them like bread, they likely occupied a distinct place in medieval baking.

“CECI N'EST PAS UN PAIN... These were NOT breads. The recipe in question includes egg whites and yolks, reflecting the fact that a raton was a PASTRY.”

🔗 Related Links:

🍞 Curious About Medieval Bread?

If you’re wondering how Rastons compare to common breads of the Middle Ages, check out my earlier post: On the Making of Bread. It explores what everyday bread looked like, how it was made, and how Rastons fit into the broader medieval baking tradition.

Next Up: I’ll be using these Rastons in a series of posts about medieval sops and pottages. Stay tuned!


#medievalfood #harleianMS279 #scacook #scafeast #historicrecipes #rastons #sops #pottage #medievalbaking #notbread

Kitchen Adventures – Dent-de-lion- The Dandelion (Buttered Wortes (Buttered Greens) & Joutes (Braised Spring Greens with Bacon))

Dent-de-lion: The Dandelion in Medieval Cuisine

“What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.”
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
Dandelion plant with flowers

Family: Asteraceae
Usage: Culinary, Medicinal

Whether known as blowball, lion's tooth, cankerwort, or wild endive, the dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) has long been prized for both its culinary and medicinal virtues. References to its use appear in Arabic, Greek, Welsh, and French sources. Europeans brought dandelions to North America deliberately—likely as early as the Pilgrims—for use as a potherb and bee forage.

Historical texts show the dandelion’s importance across centuries:

  • 1562 – Bullein’s Bulwarke: Dandelions mixed with roses and vinegar helped cool the head and purged excess heat.
  • 1587 – The Good Husvvifes Iewell: Included dandelion roots in a tonic for tissick (lung ailments).
  • 1629 – Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole: Notes the dandelion’s use in compound medicines for cleansing the blood and easing liver complaints.

Medieval people consumed a far wider variety of greens than we do today. Dandelion leaves appeared in salads and cooked greens, and the yellow flowers may have served as a natural coloring agent.

Buttered Wortes (Harleian MS. 279)

Original Recipe: “Take al maner of good herbes that thou may gete... putte hem on fire with faire water; put þer-to clarefied buttur a grete quantite. Whan thei ben boyled ynogh, salt hem... Dise brede small in disshes, and powr on the wortes, and serue hem forth.”

 Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

  • 8 cups assorted greens (including dandelion, spinach, beet greens, kale)
  • Several sprigs of fresh herbs (e.g., thyme, parsley, mint)
  • 2 tbsp clarified butter
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 thick slices of bread, cubed

Boil greens and herbs for 5–10 minutes. Drain and press out water. Chop finely. Return to pot, add butter and salt, and heat through. Serve over cubed bread or vice versa.

Bonus Recipe: Joutes – Braised Spring Greens with Bacon

See also: Harleian MS 279 Joutes (~1430)

References & Resources

  • Austin, T. Two fifteenth-century cookery-books. Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430)
  • Beard, J. (1981). Beard on Food: Dandelions Left Home to Make Good. Los Angeles Times, K38.
  • The Booke of Simples, 1562. Bulleins Bulwarke.
  • The Good Husvvifes Iewell, 1587.
  • Parkinson, J. (1629). Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris.
  • Rubel, W. (2015). The History of the Garden Dandelion. williamrubel.com
  • Ombrello, T. Dandelion, Plant of the Week, UCC Biology Dept.

⚠️ Reminder:

Always harvest dandelions from areas that are free from pesticides and herbicides. For food safety, ensure flowers and greens are from clean, untreated sources.

Originally published 5/22/2015. Updated with new historical references and interpretation on 7/3/2025.