Piatti di Salumi: Renaissance Antipasti & Mostarda (period and non-period recipe included)

“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.

Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.

Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda

While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.

Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.

For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.

Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)

How Scappi’s mostarda differs from the modern chutney used at feast

Aspect	Period (Scappi, 1570)	Modern Chutney Used	Practical Notes
Fruits	Quince & apples; candied citrus peels	Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries	Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume
Sweet/acid	Sugar + wine + grape must	Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar	Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar
Heat	Mustard essence/seed	Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne	Adjust heat post-cook to taste
Texture	Smooth, pounded sauce	Chunky, spoonable conserve	Either pairs well with salumi & cheese
Make-ahead?	Yes — improves with rest	Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated	Ideal for feast workflow

Italian Renaissance Spit Roasted Beef made with Salted Brisket & Served with Sweet Mustard Sauce from Scappi

Animal detail from medieval illuminated manuscript, British Library Harley MS 3244, 1236-c 1250, f47r

Arrosta — the grand roast course of a Renaissance feast — was far more than just meat on a spit. In Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), the arrosta included an impressive variety: spit-roasted meats, braised vegetables, elegant sauces, pasta, and even colorful jellies. This was the third course of our 12th Night 2024 feast, following the Alesso course. It showcased the depth of Italian Renaissance cooking, balancing hearty dishes with refined accompaniments.

For this feast, we adapted Scappi’s recipes for a modern feast kitchen, using brisket in place of a full rack of beef ribs, seasonal vegetables, and accessible modern cooking methods — without losing the rich flavors of the originals.

Historical Context: The Arrosta in Renaissance Dining

Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to several Popes, published his monumental cookbook in 1570. His work captures both grand courtly dining and practical Lenten fare. The arrosta course was often the centerpiece of a meal, designed to impress guests with skill, abundance, and variety. Alongside the expected roasts, Scappi included vegetable dishes, pasta, and desserts, showing the Renaissance love for balanced and abundant tables.

In Renaissance banquet tradition, the arrosta — literally “roast” — was more than a single dish. It was a set course, positioned after the boiled meats (al lesso) and before the final sweets, and served as a showcase for the host’s wealth, skill, and access to prime ingredients. In Italian and broader European practice, this course could include not only spit-roasted meats, but also fried, grilled, and baked dishes, as well as richly sauced accompaniments.

Theory of Digestion and Humoral Balance

The Renaissance kitchen did not operate solely on taste — it was deeply influenced by the Galenic theory of digestion. According to this model, digestion happened in stages, with foods progressing from lighter and moister to heavier and drier as the meal went on. Roasted meats were considered among the “drier” preparations, especially when spit-roasted over open flame, which was thought to reduce their innate moisture. Without correction, such dishes were believed to tax the body and cause imbalance in the humors, particularly in those of “dry” constitution.

To make these roasts more healthful and digestible, period cooks paired them with moistening sauces — sweet, tart, or spiced — that counterbalanced dryness. This is why Renaissance cookbooks, including Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera (1570), often present roast recipes alongside multiple sauce preparations. In our feast, this principle is reflected in the Salsa di Mostardo amabile (sweet mustard sauce) and the walnut-garlic sauce served with the beef.

Variety Within the Roast Course

While the name suggests a single cooking method, the arrosta could include:

• Spit-roasted meats — large joints of beef, lamb, game birds.
• Grilled dishes — chops, skewers, or offal.
• Fried items — fritters, pastries, and delicate morsels.
• Baked pies and pasties — often with meat or cheese fillings.

This variety allowed the cook to display mastery over multiple techniques while still keeping within the course’s “dry” category in humoral terms.

Salting as a Preservation Technique

Our beef for this course followed a process rooted in Renaissance preservation methods. Salting was one of the most important means of keeping meat edible beyond the immediate slaughtering period, especially before reliable cold storage. Coarse salt (often mixed with aromatics like fennel, coriander, or garlic) was rubbed into meat to draw out moisture through osmosis, inhibiting bacterial growth. In larger households and urban kitchens, salted meats allowed for advance preparation and easier provisioning — vital for feast service where dozens or even hundreds of guests might be served.

In Scappi’s recipes, salting could be brief — just hours — for seasoning and texture, or extended over several days for preservation. The salted pressed beef method we adapted for our brisket echoes both preservation and seasoning traditions, ensuring flavorful meat that holds its structure through long, slow cooking. In feast context, the ability to produce such meat out of season or far from slaughter was a mark of logistical skill and kitchen sophistication.

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Menu

1. Per arrostire allo spiedo un carré di costolette di manzo – To spit-roast a rack of beef ribs (Brisket substitution) 
2. Per brasare le cipolle intere in quaresima – To braise whole onions in Lent 
3. Salsa di noci e aglio – Walnut and Garlic Sauce 
4. Salsa di Mostardo amabile – Sweet Mustard Sauce 
5. Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche – Turkish Squash 
6. Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda – Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style 
7. Gelo in bocconcini di piu colori piatti – Jelly in small bites, of many colors 

Piatti de marzapani frigiati di oro - Plates of golden fried marzipan

Plates of Golden Fried Marzipan: A Renaissance Delight from Messisbugo

Among the lavish sweets presented at the 12th Night 2024 feast were these exquisite morsels: golden fried marzipan parcels inspired by Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s 16th-century banquet manual. As a court steward to the Duke of Ferrara, Messisbugo carefully documented not only recipes but the artistry of elite Renaissance dining. One such recipe, Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro, reflects both culinary skill and a love for edible ornament.

Original Italian (Messisbugo, 1549)

Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro: Prendi marzapane, et fanne certi tondi o quadrelli, et involgili in una sfoglia sottile fatta di pasta, et friggili con buon strutto caldo; et cavati che saranno, spolverizzali di zucchero, et ponli in piatti, et sopra vi metterai dell’oro fino, se vorrai fare bella cosa.

English Translation

Plates of golden fried marzipan: Take marzipan and form small rounds or squares. Wrap them in a thin pastry sheet, and fry them in good hot lard. Once they are removed, sprinkle with sugar and place them on dishes. If you wish to make a beautiful presentation, place fine gold on top.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8–12)

Ingredients

• 1 frozen pie pastry (or homemade pastry dough)
• 1 1/2 cups almond flour
• 1 cup powdered sugar
• 3 tbsp water
• 1 tsp rosewater
• 1/2 tsp "common spices" (e.g., cinnamon, clove, nutmeg)

Instructions

1. Roll out the pie pastry as thin as possible.
2. Mix together almond flour, sugar, water, rosewater, and spices to form a soft marzipan dough.
3. Cut pastry into rounds or squares. Add 1 tsp of filling to each, fold over and seal.
4. Fry in hot oil until golden. Drain and sprinkle with sugar before serving.

Historical Context: Marzipan in Italian Renaissance Cuisine

Marzipan was considered a luxurious ingredient in Renaissance Italy, associated with wealth, celebration, and spectacle. Made from almonds and sugar—both costly imports—it was often shaped into elaborate sculptures or used in gilded dishes like this one. Serving it fried and topped with gold or saffron was a way to display status and culinary refinement.

The origins of marzipan are widely debated. Some trace it to the Middle East, introduced into Europe via Arab-Spanish cuisine, while others credit Italian apothecaries who sold almond-based pastes as medicinal treats. By the 15th and 16th centuries, it had become a staple of courtly desserts across Italy, Germany, and Iberia.

Research Note: This modern interpretation was informed in part by the Italian historical food blog Cucina Medievale, a trusted source for Italian Renaissance culinary research and one of our favorite reference sites.

Source Access

The original recipe appears in Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s Banchetti, composizioni di vivande et apparecchio generale (Venice, 1549). A digitized facsimile is available via the Internet Archive. (Note: the searchable text may be corrupted, but the PDF version is accurate.)

See all dishes from the 12th Night 2024 feast by browsing the 12th Night tag or checking out this collection.

Related Recipes: You might also enjoy Struffoli: Honeyed Fried Dough, another Renaissance sweet served alongside the marzipan at this feast.

Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

🍯 Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

Honeyed Struffoli with Candied Fruit, Served with Marzipan at the 12th Night 2024 Feast
A modern interpretation of Scappi’s 16th-century recipe, these golden morsels were served as part of the appetizer selection.

As part of the 12th Night 2024 feast, guests were greeted with beautiful trays of struffoli — crisp, golden morsels glazed in warm honey and crowned with jeweled candied fruit. This appetizer, adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 16th-century cookbook Opera, captures the festive spirit and elegant artistry of Renaissance banquet tables.

🍽️ Explore the Full Feast: See the complete 12th Night 2024 Menu to discover other historical dishes served during the event.

Scappi was a master cook to Pope Pius V, and his recipes reflect the sophistication of high court cuisine in Italy. These honeyed fritters, served cold, would have dazzled diners with their texture and ornamentation. The original text appears in Libro Quinto, Cap. CXXXV, and can be found in resources like Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina.

Scappi’s Original Italian (Cap. CXXXV):

Attanfi dieci oua fresche nate di quel giorno, & impastinsicon esse fior di farina alquanto piu liquida della fopradetta, & per fpatio di mezz’horasia ben rimenata sopra la tauola, & poi distendasi essa pasta in ruotoli sottili, come se si volesse fare ciambellette...

...con un coltello si taglierà e i ruotoli a dadi, & tagliati che saranno in gran numero, si lasceranno alquanto rasciugare, & poi con strutto che non sia troppo caldo, si friggeranno, avvertendo che non piglino troppo colore, & con la cocchiara forata cavisino, e si lascino scolare, poi habbisi una cazzuola con mele schiumato che sia ben caldo, & frigghifino in esso mele, dandoli una volta, & subito si cavino, & cavati che saranno, faccinsene castelli, & altre fantafie, & servinofreddi.

🍋 Modern Recipe: Honeyed Struffoli (Serves 8)

This version of struffoli preserves the festive spirit of Scappi's recipe while adapting it for a modern kitchen. These delightful bites can be made ahead and assembled just before serving.

Ingredients

• 2⅔ cups flour
• 4½ tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• Pinch of salt
• 2 medium eggs
• ⅔ cup sugar
• Zest of 1 orange
• Zest of ½ lemon

For Garnish

• 1⅓ cups honey
• Silver or gold sprinkles
• Candied cherries
• Candied orange peel

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, combine flour, softened butter, salt, sugar, citrus zest, lemon juice, and eggs. Mix vigorously by hand until a rough dough forms.
2. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3. After chilling, divide dough into 1 cm wide ropes and roll out. Cut into small pieces, about ⅓ inch in size.
4. Heat oil to 325°F. Fry pieces in small batches until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
5. Warm honey gently in a pan. Add the fried pieces and stir to coat.
6. Arrange on a platter in a mound or ring. Garnish with sprinkles and candied fruit. Serve at room temperature.

Storage Tip: Fried dough can be made up to 2–3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container and glaze with honey just before serving.

🧾 Translating Scappi: Then vs. Now

Scappi’s original recipe begins with a rich dough made from “ten fresh eggs of the day,” kneaded with fine flour until soft and elastic. Our modern version keeps the egg-based richness, but scales it for today’s kitchens—using two eggs along with butter and citrus for added aroma and softness.

Scappi instructs the cook to roll and cut the dough into “dadi” (dice), which are dried slightly and then fried in strutto (pork fat). We preserve the shape and technique but fry in neutral oil at 325°F for ease and availability. Once cooked, the pieces are tossed in “skimmed honey,” a process mirrored in our version by gently warming the honey and folding the fritters in until glazed. His final flourish—stacking the morsels into “castles and other fancies”—is echoed in our presentation, topped with candied fruit and festive sprinkles.

📚 Inspiration

This recipe was inspired by La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli and Scappi’s Opera, foundational texts in Renaissance culinary tradition.

Try Another Dish from the Feast: Don’t miss our recipe for Tortelletti d’Herba alla Lombarda, a savory herb-filled pasta that accompanied these sweet fritters at the table.

Tags: 12th Night, SCA Feast, Historical Recipes, Renaissance Cooking, Bartolomeo Scappi, Medieval Appetizer, Struffoli, Italian Holiday Food

Flavors of the Flower: 5 Medieval Recipes Using Edible Blooms

Flavors of the Flower: 5 Medieval Recipes Using Edible Blooms

Woodcut of a Gilliflower from John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). Parkinson praised the gilliflower’s “spicy sent” and its usefulness in syrups and conserves.

In the late Middle Ages, edible flowers adorned more than just gardens—they featured prominently on elite banquet tables as key ingredients in both sweet and savory dishes. From the delicate rose and primrose to more assertive blooms like hawthorn and violet, flowers served to tint, scent, and thicken custards, broths, and pottages. These floral additions were not only visually and gastronomically appealing but also aligned with humoral theory: the belief that food's temperamental qualities could support the physical and emotional balance of the diner.

This post is a curated collection of medieval recipes that utilize edible flowers for more than just decoration. You'll find my modern take on Rede Rose, a silky custard infused with rose petals, alongside historical dishes and inspiration for planting your own edible flower garden. If you’re interested in recreating these recipes, don’t miss the section on safe modern substitutes and preservation techniques. The methods and virtues of these flowers are reflected not only in recipe manuscripts but in early gardening manuals and herbal lore—including John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole, A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

📜 Archived Reference: Medieval Herbs We Grow Chiefly as Flowers

Compiled by Agnes deLanvallei (March 2005)
Originally published at KeelerAnderson.net; now preserved via the Internet Archive.
→ View the full original table

Note: These flowers were edible in the Middle Ages, though many are no longer commonly eaten. Always verify organic, untreated sources before consuming. Individuals with allergies should avoid plants in families known to trigger reactions.

Common Name	Scientific Name	Family	Notes / Uses
Borage	Borago officinalis	Boraginaceae	Flowers and leaves eaten raw or cooked; safe and uplifting
Calendula (Pot Marigold)	Calendula officinalis	Asteraceae	Used in salads and broths; petals are edible and medicinal
Carnation / Gillyflower	Dianthus spp.	Caryophyllaceae	Edible flowers; valued for scent and beauty
Lavender	Lavandula officinalis	Lamiaceae	Used for fragrance and culinary syrups
Rose	Rosa spp.	Rosaceae	Petals used in syrups, custards, and conserves
Violet	Viola odorata	Violaceae	Scented variety used in cooking and syrups
Pansy / Heartsease	Viola tricolor	Violaceae	Safe edible flowers; used ornamentally

Original Compilation: Agnes deLanvallei, 2005. Published at KeelerAnderson.net (archived 2016).
Content adapted under fair use for educational and archival preservation. Original archive link: Wayback Machine.

Want to explore more about historical edible flowers? Visit Agnes de Lanvallei’s Medieval Herbs We Grow Chiefly as Flowers—an excellent resource on what was grown, used, and enjoyed during the period.

Section 1: Featured Recipe – Rede Rose

Rede Rose is a 15th-century English custard enriched with almond milk and egg yolks and delicately flavored with rose petals. In my interpretation, I blend the ingredients and gently cook them in a double boiler until thickened to a smooth consistency. The result is a creamy, floral custard with nostalgic charm and subtle elegance. It was well received—three taste-testers all went back for more.

🔍 Read the full Rede Rose recipe and interpretation here

Section 2: The Other Floral Recipes

Medieval cooks used flowers not just for flavor but also for fragrance, symbolism, and aesthetic beauty. The following recipes represent a variety of culinary traditions from the period—ranging from rich custards to savory pottages and festive garnishes.

• Cviij. Prymerose – A custard thickened with rice flour and scented with primrose flowers. Includes almond milk, ginger, and saffron.
• Cxxvij. Prymerose – Made “in the same manner as the violet dish.”
• Cxxviij. Flowrys of Hawþorn – Prepared “as vyolet,” per the manuscript.
• Vyolette (Sweet Custard Style) – A gentle, egg-thickened custard infused with violet petals.
• Vyolette (With Fruit and Spices) – A richer version with dates, sugar, pine nuts, and almond milk; reminiscent of a floral frumenty.
• Dandelion Greens (Dent-de-lion) – A savory dish exploring dandelion as a medieval edible green.

Note: Some recipes were garnished with gilliflowers purely for presentation rather than flavor, such as Cawdelle Ferry and Pumpes.

Section 3: Historical Culinary Techniques for Flower-Based Dishes

Medieval kitchens employed specific techniques when preparing flower-based recipes. These methods combined practical cooking skills with the medical philosophies of the time:

• Infusion in Liquids: Flowers such as rose, violet, primrose, and lavender were steeped in almond milk, wine, or water to extract their essence and color—techniques echoed in Parkinson and early apothecary texts.
• Thickening Agents: Recipes often used rice flour, egg yolks, or breadcrumbs to create custard-like textures, as seen in Rede Rose and Prymerose.
• Garnishing and Gilding: Petals like gilliflowers and calendula were added as visual flourishes—sometimes even gilded with edible gold for a luxurious touch.
• Layering Flavors: Flowers were combined with dates, sugar, spices, and nuts to balance or enhance the dish, a technique preserved in dishes like Vyolette with Fruit and Spices.
• Medicinal Use: Many flowers were believed to have healing properties aligned with humoral theory. For example, borage was used to “gladden the heart” and violets to cool and comfort the spirit, according to both Parkinson and early modern herbals.

Section 4: Sweet vs. Savory – Matching Flowers to Flavor Profiles

Not all flowers belong in dessert. Here's a guide to choosing edible blooms based on their flavor compatibility—paired with historical insights from John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629):

Best for Sweet Dishes:

• Rose: Floral and fruity; used in custards, jams, and syrups. Parkinson praises it as “the chiefest flower for beauty, smell and use... the conserve of the red rose is of much use among the gentlewomen.”
• Violets: Mildly sweet and delicate; perfect for candying and desserts. Parkinson notes, “The blew Violets are much used in Possets, Syrups, and Conserves... and to comfort the heart.”
• Primrose: Subtly sweet; often used in custards or steeped in sweet wine. Parkinson recommends them for “comforting the brain and spirits, and sweet waters made of them refresh the senses.”
• Gillyflowers (Clove-pinks or Carnations): Though often decorative, Parkinson remarks on their “spicy sent... good in conserves and syrups.”

Best for Savory Dishes:

• Borage: Cucumber-like; great in salads or chilled soups. Parkinson writes, “The flowers are candied, or put into wine to exhilarate the spirits.”
• Calendula (Marigold): Peppery and colorful; used as a saffron substitute in rice or eggs. Parkinson notes, “It is of good use to garnish meats and salads... the broth wherein it is boiled is good to comfort the heart.”
• Chamomile: Mild apple scent; infuses well into teas or syrups. Parkinson calls it “a soother of pain and a comfort to the stomach.”
• Lavender: Intense and perfumed; used sparingly in sugar or honey infusions. Parkinson states, “The flowers steeped in wine... do strengthen the stomach and make the heart merry.”

Section 5: Ensuring Flower Safety in the Garden

If you're planning to grow edible flowers, follow these safety tips to ensure they’re safe to eat. While medieval gardeners like Parkinson wrote at length about the virtues of each bloom, they also relied on intimate plant knowledge and seasonal observation. For modern cooks, extra caution ensures both beauty and safety at the table.

• Use only edible species: Confirm plant identity using reputable sources. Avoid look-alikes that may be toxic.
• Start with culinary-grade or organic seed: Many ornamental flowers are treated with pesticides and are not safe for consumption.
• Grow organically: Avoid herbicides or synthetic sprays; opt for natural pest management or companion planting.
• Harvest responsibly: Pick in the morning after dew has dried. Use only the petals unless the entire flower is known to be edible.
• Clean gently: Rinse flowers in cool water and allow to dry completely before use.
• When in doubt, leave it out: Never eat a flower unless you are certain it is edible and untreated.

For historical gardeners, flower safety was closely tied to herbal knowledge and household management. As A Book of Fruits & Flowers and A Plain Plantain both suggest, flowers were viewed as food, medicine, and memory—requiring both reverence and care.

Section 6: Preserving Flowers – Pickling, Sugaring, and Wine Infusions

Preserving flowers was a vital part of historical kitchen and apothecary life. Whether through vinegar, sugar, or wine, cooks and herbalists ensured that blossoms could be used for flavor, medicine, and beauty long after their season passed. These practices are well documented in early sources like Paradisi in Sole (1629), A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

Pickled Flowers and Floral Vinegars:

Pickling flower buds and petals added brightness to savory dishes and infused subtle floral or herbal notes into vinegars and brines.

• Rosebuds: The 1653 manual preserves rosebuds with vinegar, cinnamon, and cloves for sauces and medicinal syrups.
• Violets: Used in vinegar-based salads and fish sauces. Landrum notes their cooling properties and popularity in gentle syrups.
• Primroses: Often soaked in wine or vinegar; Parkinson describes their use in “sweet waters” to comfort the brain and heart.
• Calendula: Added to broths and herbal vinegars for its warming, cheering effect—referenced in both 17th- and 20th-century texts.

Basic historical-style pickling method:

1. Gently rinse and blanch flower petals or buds.
2. Place in a spiced vinegar solution (e.g., wine vinegar with cloves, mustard seed, or bay leaf).
3. Seal in jars and allow to steep in a cool place for several days.

Sugared and Candied Flowers:

Sweet preservation was both decorative and medicinal. Candied flowers appeared on subtleties, marchpanes, and biscuits, or were simmered into syrups for drinks and electuaries.

• Violets, Roses, Primroses, and Gilliflowers: Parkinson provides detailed instructions for conserves and sugared flowers. The 1653 book includes recipes for drying and candying blossoms for health and beauty. Landrum refers to them as “petals crystallized like poetry.”
• Lavender & Marigold: Sometimes simmered in honey for use in preserves, or added to floral syrups.

Flowers Preserved in Wine:

Infusing wine with flowers was another way to preserve and extract flavor or medicinal value—commonly done in medieval and early modern households:

• Hippocras: A spiced wine infusion including rose or rosemary flowers, used as both a tonic and celebration drink. Parkinson references flowered wines in courtly and apothecary contexts.
• Primrose, Violet, Chamomile, and Borage: Often steeped in wine or ale for “cordial” effects. Landrum records borage wine to uplift the melancholy and primrose wine to refresh the mind.
• Comfrey and Ivy: Soaked in wine with honey for use in healing tinctures—described in the 1653 manual under medicinal preserves.

Preserving flowers in wine, sugar, or vinegar allowed medieval and early modern cooks to keep a garden’s essence through the seasons—transforming fleeting blooms into shelf-stable medicines, syrups, confections, and cordials.

Historical Recipes: Flowers Preserved in Wine, Honey, and Vinegar

Early modern herbal and household texts provide us with several detailed methods for preserving edible flowers. These examples are drawn from Paradisi in Sole, A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), The Good Huswifes Jewell (1596), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

🍷 Flowers in Wine

• Primrose Wine: Steep fresh primrose petals in white wine with sugar. Strain and bottle after several days. Described in Parkinson as a cordial “to comfort the brain and spirits.”
• Borage Wine: Borage flowers were infused in white wine or ale with citrus peel and honey—used to cheer the heart and “drive away melancholy.” Mentioned by Landrum and Parkinson.

🍯 Flowers in Honey or Syrup

• Syrup of Violets: From the 1653 manual. Pound violet petals, steep in warm water, strain, and simmer with sugar. Used for coughs or to sweeten medicinal drinks.
• Honey of Roses: Parkinson includes this soothing preparation. Rose petals are simmered in honey, then strained and stored. Used for ulcers, throat comfort, or cooling electuaries.

🍇 Flowers in Vinegar

• Violet Vinegar: Found in The Good Huswifes Jewell. Violets steeped in wine vinegar with herbs, used for dressing sallets (salads) and preserving greens.
• Marigold Vinegar: Cited in both Parkinson and the 1653 text. Fresh calendula petals steeped in warm vinegar and used in broths, sauces, or as a remedy “to comfort the heart.”

Further Reading: Of March Violets

Explore the poetic and symbolic legacy of violets in “Of March Violets”, a companion piece reflecting on the fragrance, folklore, and meaning of this beloved bloom in medieval and modern imagination.

Whether you're reconstructing a medieval banquet or adding floral flair to a modern meal, edible flowers are a fragrant and flavorful way to connect with the past. These recipes remind us that beauty and sustenance were deeply intertwined in historical cuisine—and they invite us to continue that legacy in our own kitchens today.

⚠️ Reminder: Always use organically grown or culinary-grade flowers. Never consume flowers from florists or treated ornamental plants.

References & Resources

• Parkinson, John. Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). A foundational English gardening text blending botanical, culinary, and medicinal knowledge. Read on Project Gutenberg.
• A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653). A 17th-century household manual offering flower-based recipes for food, drink, and medicine. Read on Project Gutenberg.
• Landrum, Grace Warren. A Plain Plantain: A Book of Herbal Lore (1911). A lyrical exploration of flower symbolism, history, and folklore. Read on Project Gutenberg.
• Dawson, Thomas. The Good Huswifes Jewell (1596). A Tudor-era cookbook that includes floral syrups, vinegars, and herbal remedies. Read on Internet Archive.
• British Museum Blog. “How to Cook a Medieval Feast: 11 Recipes from the Middle Ages.” britishmuseum.org
• Recipes Project Blog. “Distilling Violets: Women's Recipes and Domestic Knowledge.” recipes.hypotheses.org
• Wikipedia. “Four Thieves Vinegar.” Historical herbal vinegar recipe linked to plague lore. en.wikipedia.org
• MedievalCookery.com. Offers searchable transcriptions of period cookbooks. medievalcookery.com
• Of March Violets. A historical and poetic exploration of violets, including a period recipe for Oil of Violets.
• The Past is a Foreign Pantry. A blog exploring medieval and early modern foodways. thepastisaforeignpantry.com

Egg Leaveners: A Historical Journey from Renaissance Biscottini to Modern Baking

Mostaccioli a la Romana - Almond "Cakes" & Biscottini di zuccaro - Sugar Biscuits

Introduction: The Role of Eggs in Historical Leavening

Long before baking powder and baking soda revolutionized kitchens, cooks relied on clever, natural methods to bring lightness and lift to breads, cakes, and cookies. Among these, eggs stood out as a versatile, accessible, and surprisingly effective leavening agent—especially prized in pastries, biscuits, and delicate baked goods.

Yeast and barm starters fermented doughs, while early chemical leaveners like potash and hartshorn offered quick rising alternatives. But eggs, with their unique physical properties, provided bakers a reliable way to create tender, airy textures without fermentation or chemicals.

How Eggs Leaven: The Science Behind the Rise

• When egg whites are beaten or folded into batters, their proteins unfold and trap tiny air bubbles, creating a stable foam.
• During baking, these trapped air pockets expand with heat, causing the mixture to rise and set into a tender, airy crumb.
• This mechanical leavening doesn’t rely on fermentation or chemical reactions, allowing quicker and often more predictable results.
• Separating yolks and whites further refines control—whipped whites beaten to soft or stiff peaks can fine-tune texture and volume.

While yolks add richness and tenderness, the foaming power that lifts the batter mainly comes from the whites.

Historically, chicken eggs were common, but goose and duck eggs—larger and richer—were prized in special recipes. Coastal and rural areas might use quail or pheasant eggs, subtly affecting richness and leavening power. Variations in egg size and composition required cooks to carefully adjust techniques and ratios.

Cultural and Medicinal Significance of Eggs

Eggs weren’t just functional ingredients—they carried cultural and medical meanings. In medieval and Renaissance humoral theory, foods were classified by qualities like hot, cold, moist, and dry, believed to affect bodily balance.

Eggs were considered “warm and moist,” balancing “cold” or “dry” ingredients such as certain vegetables or grains. This philosophy shaped recipe construction and timing, elevating eggs beyond mere ingredients to symbols of health, harmony, and even seasonality.

Egg Leavening Compared to Yeast and Chemical Leaveners

Different leavening methods produced distinct textures and flavors:

• Yeast breads develop chewy crumbs and complex flavors through fermentation. They have longer shelf life but require time and precise conditions to rise.
• Egg-leavened goods like sponges, biscuits, and small cakes offer delicate crumb and richness. They rely on mechanical aeration and are best consumed fresh due to higher moisture and lack of preservative fermentation.
• Chemical leaveners such as potash and hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) emerged later, yielding quick rise and crisp texture but sometimes imparting strong flavors.

Together, these methods gave bakers a versatile toolkit, tailored for occasions from daily bread to grand banquets.

Historical Context and Development

Eggs as leaveners have roots in antiquity. Ancient Roman texts like Apicius’ De Re Coquinaria (4th–5th century CE) include recipes enriched with eggs, implying leavening roles (Dalby, 2003). By medieval times, cookery manuscripts showed increasing sophistication, recognizing eggs’ ability to trap air and lighten crumb (Toussaint-Samat, 1992).

The Italian Renaissance (14th–17th centuries) was pivotal. Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570) details egg-leavened tortelletti, sponges, and biscotti. This knowledge spread across Europe, influencing French and English baking (Albala, 2011). English texts like Forme of Cury reflect local adaptations.

Eggs’ “warm and moist” classification under humoral theory guided recipe design and usage by season and constitution (Fissell, 2010). Socioeconomic factors also influenced egg use; while chickens were common, eggs were seasonal and sometimes scarce, reserved for special occasions or wealthier households (Lea & Ward, 2003).

Pre-1600 Examples of Egg-Leavened Baked Goods

Fifteenth-century manuscripts document egg-leavened baked goods predating chemical leaveners. Italian biscottini—crisp cookies folding whipped egg whites into sweetened dough—are well attested (Scappi, 1570). English texts like Forme of Cury (ca. 1390) describe egg-based cakes and biscuits aerated by beating (Leahy, 1999).

Typical ingredients included wheat flour, honey or sugar, eggs (whole or separated), and spices like almonds, citrus peel, and cinnamon (Toussaint-Samat, 1992). Egg whites were hand-beaten to a stable foam, then folded carefully to preserve air bubbles, producing tender crumb (Smith, 2013).

Success depended on whipping and folding skill. Recipes emphasized “enough” eggs and beating “well,” reflecting practical rather than precise measures (Albala, 2007). These treats, labor-intensive and seasonal, were reserved for feasts, showcasing culinary artistry.

Post-1600 Innovations and Refinements

The 17th century brought refined egg-leavened baking with dedicated sponges and pastries relying on egg foam science. Cookbooks like La Varenne’s Le Cuisinier François (1651) and Woolley’s The Queen-like Closet (1672) describe precise beating and folding techniques for tender crumb (La Varenne, 1651; Woolley, 1672).

Egg whites were whipped to varying stiffness and folded gently—foundational for sponges and foams still popular today. Though chemical leaveners like hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) appeared, egg foam remained preferred for subtle flavor and texture (Albala, 2011).

Regional variation thrived: French genoise sponges favored gentle folding with minimal chemical leaveners (Montagné, 1938), while English Victoria sponge layered jam and cream, highlighting egg-leavened richness (Toussaint-Samat, 1992). Italy preserved airy biscottini and pan di Spagna, blending Renaissance techniques with local tastes.

“To whip eggs to the proper consistency requires both patience and finesse. Early bakers used careful hand motions to achieve soft, medium, or stiff peaks, each suited to different textures.”
— Adapted from Le Cuisinier François (1651)

Hartshorn — The Predecessor to Baking Powder

Before modern baking powder, hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) was a common chemical leavener in Europe. Derived from powdered deer antlers, it created crisp, light biscuits but sometimes imparted a distinct ammonia aroma, making egg foam the preferred leavening for delicate cakes and pastries (Albala, 2011).

While effective, hartshorn’s scent was off-putting to some, leading to the development of modern baking powders in the 19th century.

Featured Recipe: Italian Renaissance Biscottini

Ingredients

• 3 large egg whites
• 150g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar
• 150g (1 1/2 cups) finely ground almonds (almond flour)
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
• Pinch of salt

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Whip egg whites with salt to soft peaks. Gradually add sugar while whipping to stiff, glossy peaks.
3. Gently fold in almonds, lemon zest, and cinnamon, preserving airiness.
4. Pipe or spoon dollops onto baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches apart.
5. Bake for 20–25 minutes until dry to the touch and lightly golden.
6. Cool completely on a wire rack before serving.

Tips:

• Avoid overbeating the egg whites to maintain tenderness.
• Baking at a moderate temperature dries cookies evenly without excess browning.
• Experiment with savory variations like minced prosciutto or spices like anise seeds.

Egg Leaveners in the Broader Context of Historical Baking

Egg leavening coexisted with yeast fermentation, chemical agents like potash and hartshorn, and mechanical methods such as creaming butter and sugar.

• Yeast made staple chewy breads with long shelf life.
• Chemical leaveners enabled quick, crisp biscuits but sometimes had strong flavors.
• Egg leavening was ideal for delicate pastries and cakes, prized for lightness without fermentation or chemicals.

Egg-leavened goods were luxurious and reserved for special occasions, contrasting with everyday breads. Due to higher moisture and fat, they were more perishable and best enjoyed fresh.

Modern classics like genoise, pan di Spagna, and ladyfingers descend from these methods, underscoring their timeless appeal.

Timeless Traditions: The Enduring Legacy of Egg Leavening

What’s truly striking is how little the fundamental technique of egg leavening has changed over the centuries. The modern almond biscuit recipe above isn’t far removed from the Renaissance biscottini crafted in 17th-century kitchens.

The same simple yet precise steps—whipping egg whites to glossy foam, folding in dry ingredients gently, and baking at a careful temperature—have carried through generations.

This continuity is a testament to the elegance and effectiveness of these age-old methods. Rather than being “primitive,” historical recipes display remarkable sophistication and intuitive understanding of food science long before modern chemistry.

By baking with these techniques today, you’re connecting directly with a rich culinary heritage. Each whisk and fold echoes the skilled hands of bakers past, bridging time and culture through shared craftsmanship.

Try It Yourself

Whether you’re a history buff or a curious baker, these egg-leavened recipes invite you to whisk your way through centuries of culinary tradition. Try your hand at Renaissance biscottini and taste the legacy of a time-honored technique.

For more on historical leaveners, explore our Forgotten Leaveners series covering potash, yeast, and chemical methods.

Support our work on Ko-fi for exclusive recipes and guides, helping keep history alive on your table.

Suggested Internal Links

• Forgotten Leaveners Series: Potash and Pearl Ash
• Yeast and Barm Starters in Historical Baking (TBD)
• Chemical Leaveners: Hartshorn and Ammonium Bicarbonate

References

• Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Albala, K. (2007). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Dalby, A. (2003). Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. Routledge.
• Fissell, M. (2010). Natural Science and the Making of the Middle Ages. University of Chicago Press.
• La Varenne, F. P. (1651). Le Cuisinier François.
• Lea, D., & Ward, J. (2003). The English Cookery Book: Historical Perspective. British Library.
• Leahy, E. (1999). The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery. Early English Text Society.
• Montagné, P. (1938). Larousse Gastronomique.
• Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
• Smith, A. F. (2013). The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. Oxford University Press.
• Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.
• Woolley, H. (1672). The Queen-like Closet.

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Note: This recipe was originally published in 2015. This updated version includes clearer instructions, a modern interpretation scaled for groups, and a vegetarian option to better suit today’s kitchens.
For the original historical context and early draft, see Lange Wortes de Pesoun (2015).

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Lange Wortes de Pesoun — a simple medieval peas and greens pottage inspired by Harleian MS 279, simmered to comforting perfection.

Looking for a seasonal medieval recipe with fresh garden greens and sweet peas? This 15th-century dish combines simple ingredients—peas, onions, and wortes (leafy greens)—into a richly comforting pottage. Featured in Harleian MS 279, it’s proof that medieval cooks knew how to make the most of the spring harvest.

History of the Dish

The Harleian manuscripts, compiled around 1430, include several recipes for vegetable-based pottages. The first of the green recipes is Lange Wortys de Chare, a dish of long-cooked greens. This recipe, Lange Wortes de Pesoun, adds green peas and onions, simmered until tender and fragrant. Despite the less-than-inviting olive-colored broth, this dish was a hit with even my non-SCA teenage tasters.

Did You Know?
Peas are one of the oldest cultivated crops. The Roman cookbook Apicius includes nine recipes for dried peas. By 800 CE, they were grown across Charlemagne’s lands, and by the 1200s, fresh peas were sold in European cities by street vendors.

Legumes, Pulses, and Medieval Abundance

Legumes (fresh in the pod) and pulses (dried) are members of the same family—plants whose fruit grows in pods. This group includes peas, lentils, beans, and lupins. The Latin word "legere" (to gather) gives us "legume." By the 16th century, peas were cultivated in many varieties: short, tall, smooth, wrinkled, yellow, and green.

In this recipe, the term “green peas” likely refers to fresh, shelled peas, suggesting a springtime preparation. But don’t let that stop you from using frozen or dried peas in other seasons—just adjust the cooking time to soften them fully.

A Philosophy of "Enough"

We don't need to measure in cups, tablespoons, or ounces when interpreting medieval recipes. They encourage us to be "enough."

Enough means ample to satisfy, adequate to nourish. Out with "simplify"—in with "enough." A motto worth cooking by.

.ij. Lange Wortes de pesoun.—Take grene pesyn, an washe hem clene an caste hem on a potte, an boyle hem tyl þey breste, an þanne take hem vppe of þe potte, an put hem with brothe yn a-noþer potte, and lete hem kele; þan draw hem þorw a straynowre in-to a fayre potte, an þan take oynonys, and screde hem in to or þre, an take hole wortys and boyle hem in fayre water: and take hem vppe, an ley hem on a fayre bord, an cytte on .iij. or iiij., an ley hem to þe oynonys in þe potte, to þe drawyd pesyn; an let hem boyle tyl þey ben tendyr; an þanne tak fayre oyle and frye hem, or ellys sum fresche broþe of sum maner fresche fysshe, an caste þer-to, an Safron, an salt a quantyte, and serue it forth.

Translation

Take green peas and wash them clean, then boil them until they burst. Remove them, and place with broth in another pot to cool. Then strain them through a strainer into a clean pot. Add shredded onions and pre-boiled greens (such as kale or cabbage) cut into thirds. Combine all in the pot with the strained peas and cook until tender. Finish with oil or fish broth, saffron, and salt. Serve warm.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

• 8 cups frozen peas
• 8 handfuls mixed greens (kale, chard, collards, spinach), chopped
• 1 onion, shredded
• 8 cups homemade beef stock (or fish broth)
• 1 teaspoon saffron (or to taste)
• Salt to taste

Heat peas until soft (about 5-7 minutes), then blend or mash them to a pulp and strain out any large bits.
Boil the greens separately until tender, then press dry.
In a large pot, simmer the broth with saffron and onions until onions soften.
Add the greens to the pot.
Stir in the pea purée and cook for about 5 minutes more.
Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Tip: For a lighter, brothier dish, try using 5–6 cups of peas and increase the broth to 8–10 cups. Adjust cooking times as needed for a soup-like consistency.
Vegetarian option: Simply substitute the beef or fish broth with a rich vegetable broth to keep the dish meat-free and flavorful.

Budget-Friendly & Feast-Ready

This recipe is one I would happily serve at a luncheon or as a side at a feast. It’s affordable, nourishing, and adapts well to both spring freshness and winter pantry staples.

More Seasonal Recipes?
If you’re looking for other dishes perfect for spring feasts or garden fare, try:

• Lange Wortys de Chare (Long Greens)
• Joutes (Braised Greens)
• Caboges (Braised Cabbage)

Tags:
Pottage, Vegetables, Grain, Medieval, SCA Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Printable

Revisiting Quince: A Medieval Fruit with Modern Flavor

 

Revisiting Quince: History, Recipes, and Rediscovery

What it is, why it matters, and how to cook with it today—plus links to historical quince recipes!

I. Introduction

In 2014, we explored quince for the first time on this blog. The Kitchen Adventures - Working with Quince, was one of the first articles I published.  Now, with years of experimentation behind us and a growing archive of recipes, we're returning to this fragrant fruit to dig deeper into its history, flavor, and role in historical cuisine.

Quince is a fruit both ancient and enigmatic—celebrated in antiquity, prized in the medieval kitchen, and curiously underused today. Its transformation through cooking is nothing short of alchemy: from rock-hard and mouth-puckering to melting, fragrant, and complex. This article revives quince in all its golden glory—offering techniques, tips, and historical insight to make it relevant for your table again.

II. What Is Quince?

Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a member of the Rosaceae family, which includes apples, pears, and roses. Though too astringent to eat raw, quince undergoes a remarkable transformation when cooked—its firm flesh softens, its pale color deepens into a rosy amber, and its aroma fills the kitchen with a delicate perfume. Often considered the forgotten cousin of the apple, quince is nuanced, elegant, and quietly captivating.

III. A Long History of Love

Quince has charmed cultures for centuries. Dioscorides praised it in the first century, and it appeared frequently in medieval and Renaissance manuscripts in various forms: poached in honey, preserved with vinegar and spices, or simmered into thick, rich pastes. Known to the Greeks as the "Cydonian apple," quince was later featured in English recipes as chardequynce or quynade—early iterations of modern fruit jellies and marmalades.

Quince in Classical Medicine and Lore

Quinces were praised by herbalists and physicians across antiquity and the Middle Ages. Dioscorides recommended placing peeled quinces in a jar filled with honey, where they would soften into a medicinal treat over the course of a year—this method, called melomeli, was said to settle the stomach.

The Greeks called them kythoni, and Roman authors like Galen categorized quinces as cold and dry in nature. In medieval herbals like Henry Lyte’s 1578 translation of A Nievve Herball, quinces were described in detail: they could "stop the laske," soothe dysentery, prevent headaches from "vapors," and even ensure wise children if eaten during pregnancy.

Dodoens noted two varieties—apple and pear quinces—with the pear-shaped being larger. He described the scent as so fragrant that once the downy skin was removed, they appeared “as yellow as gold.”

Preservation Through Time: From Melomeli to Marmalade

Long before the term “marmalade” came to mean citrus jam, preserved quince was the original treat. Various names and techniques survive in recipes from the 1st to 16th centuries:

• Melomeli: Quince aged in honey for a year, per Dioscorides (1st c.).
• Cidonitum: A Roman and Byzantine jelly with vinegar, honey, ginger, and pepper.
• Chardequynce: A late medieval spiced paste of quince, honey, and ginger—eventually giving way to early marmalades and membrillo.

How to Make Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)

Chardequynce was once served alongside cheese, meats, or at the close of a feast. It's made from cooked quince purée, honey, and warming spices—sometimes including eringo root (sea holly), considered an aphrodisiac in humoral medicine.

Teaser recipe: Simmer peeled, quartered quince until soft. Mash, strain, and cook with honey until thick enough to hold a furrow when stirred. Add ground ginger and (optionally) eringo. Spread into pans to dry. For full instructions, see: Of Quince, Its Nature and Virtues.

📜 Printable Recipe: Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)

Yield: 1 tray of sliced quince paste (stores indefinitely)

Ingredients:

• 1 lb quince – peeled, quartered, seeds removed
• 12 oz honey (or sugar)
• 2¼ tsp chopped ginger
• 1½ tbsp ground ginger
• ¼ lb eringo root powder (optional)

Instructions:

1. Place quince pieces in a pot with just enough water to cover. Simmer until soft.
2. Strain and mash or purée fruit. (Save cooking water, seeds, and peels for jelly.)
3. Return pulp to pot. Stir in honey and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until thickened—about 45 minutes.
4. Optional: Stir off heat until the paste lightens in color.
5. Mix in chopped ginger, ground ginger, and optional eringo root powder.
6. Spread onto a parchment-lined tray or pan and allow to dry in a cool place for 3–4 weeks.
7. Slice and serve with cheese or as part of a final course.

Note: If you can't find eringo root, substitute with an additional teaspoon of fresh ginger or a few teaspoons of chopped candied angelica or fennel for a similar effect. Or simply omit—it will still taste delicious.

Historical Note: Based on 16th c. English and earlier Greek/Byzantine quince paste traditions. Traditionally stored in wooden boxes or wrapped in oiled paper.

Enhancing and Using Quince in Modern Cooking

Quince is a fragrant, complex fruit that transforms dramatically when cooked. Though it's traditionally used in jams and pastes, quince can shine in a wide variety of savory and sweet applications—when treated with the proper techniques.

Best Cooking Techniques to Enhance Quince Flavor

1. Poaching (Slow Simmering)
   Simmer peeled, sliced quince in water, sugar, and optional aromatics for 1–2 hours.
   Result: Tender, floral, honeyed slices of fruit with a silky texture.
2. Roasting
   Slice and roast quince with honey or butter at 375°F (190°C) for 45–60 minutes.
   Result: Caramelized, aromatic fruit perfect for savory pairings.
3. Braising
   Add to braised meat dishes during the final hour.
   Result: Quince soaks up savory juices and lends fragrance to the dish.
4. Pickling
   Briefly simmer in vinegar brine; chill before using.
   Result: Tart, firm quince for salads or cheese boards.

Modern Applications Beyond Sweets

• Cheese Boards: Pair membrillo with Manchego or blue cheese.
• Glazes & Sauces: Reduce quince poaching syrup for pork or duck.
• Salads & Slaws: Use pickled quince in bitter greens and mustard dressings.
• Grain Bowls: Mix roasted quince into farro, lentils, or barley with herbs.
• Tagines: Add quince to North African stews with lamb, saffron, and cinnamon.

Excellent Pairings to Showcase Quince's Unique Flavor

• Cheese: Manchego, Comté, Gorgonzola, Goat Cheese
• Meat: Duck, Pork, Lamb, Game Meats
• Spices: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Ginger, Star Anise, Saffron
• Fruits/Veg: Apples, Pears, Citrus, Beets, Carrots

Want to make your own?
You can download and print our free recipe card for Chardequynce—a spiced quince paste from the 16th century. Made with honey, ginger, and (optionally) eringo root, it keeps beautifully and pairs with cheese or roasted meats.

More Historic Quince Recipes:

• Quince-Infused Marzipan
• Apples Stewed with Quince and Pignoli Nuts
• Quynade (almond milk cheese flavored with quince)
• Quidinia (Quince Jelly)
• Of Quince: Its Nature and Virtues

Resources & Historical Notes

Primary Sources

• Dioscorides – De Materia Medica
• Harleian MS. 279
• Rembert Dodoens – A Nievve Herball (1578, trans. Henry Lyte)

Reference Texts

• Hieatt, C.B. – The Culinary Recipes of Medieval England
• Wilson, C. – The Book of Marmalade
• Austin, T. – Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books

Want More?

Explore more historical recipes and culinary lore under these tags:
Fruit | Confections and Dessert | Jellies and Gelatin

Potash: The Ashes That Raised a Nation

Potash: The Ashes That Raised a Nation

Long before baking powder revolutionized home kitchens, early American bakers demonstrated their ingenuity by using potash—an alkaline residue from wood ash—as a leavening agent. Extracted from hearth ashes, potash enabled cooks to prepare lighter breads and cakes, showcasing their resourcefulness before the advent of commercial yeast or baking soda.

This article builds on our previous piece ‘From Ashes to Antlers’ , which explored the historical use of various natural materials in early American kitchens. Let's take a closer look at potash's role in early American kitchens.

What Is Potash?

Early American cooks made potash (potassium carbonate) by soaking hardwood ashes in water to create lye, then boiling the liquid until it yielded a solid alkaline salt. The name "potash" comes from this process of boiling ashes in pots.

Lye Safety and Myths

• Is lye dangerous? In concentrated form, yes. Historical potash lye was milder but still required care.
• Safe to eat? Yes, when neutralized adequately with acid. The reaction produces water and carbon dioxide.
• Make it today? It's possible, but use gloves and eye protection.
• Myth: "Lye is poison." → Truth: It was a standard kitchen tool for soap, pretzels, and baking.

The Chemistry of Potash Leavening

Potash requires an acid (such as molasses or sour milk) to create carbon dioxide, which helps lift the dough. This simple reaction laid the foundation for early quick breads.

• Source: Hardwood ash
• Type: Potassium carbonate
• Reaction: Potash + Acid → CO₂ → Rise

What Is Pearl Ash?

Pearl ash is refined potash. Makers dissolved potash in water, filtered it, and evaporated the solution to create a whiter, cleaner salt ideal for baking delicate cakes.

• Potash: Crude wood ash residue
• Pearl Ash: Refined, purified potash
• Used in: Gingerbread, sponge cake, biscuits

Historic Use in Recipes

Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery (1796) frequently used pearl ash with acidic ingredients. Below is a modern version of her gingerbread recipe.

Gingerbread with Pearl Ash

• 1 cup molasses
• 1/2 cup sour cream or buttermilk
• 1 tsp pearl ash (or baking soda)
• 1 tbsp ground ginger
• 2.5–3 cups flour

Instructions: Mix pearl ash with sour cream. Stir in molasses and ginger. Add flour gradually. Bake at 350°F for 20–25 minutes.

Other Recipes Using Potash

Beyond gingerbread, early American bakers showcased the versatility of potash in a variety of recipes where mild sweetness and dense structure were welcome. Typical dishes included molasses cakes, Johnnycakes (cornmeal flatbreads), spice biscuits, and hoecakes. These recipes often relied on potash for rise when eggs were scarce or sour milk was abundant. Amelia Simmons and other early cookbooks also mention "loaf cakes" and "crackers" leavened with potash or pearl ash, highlighting its wide range of uses.

From Hearth to Pantry: How Baking Powder Changed Everything

The introduction of baking powder in the mid-19th century marked a significant turning point in the history of baking. Potash-leavened goods tend to have a slightly soapy or alkaline note if not carefully balanced with acid. The texture was often denser, with a subtle chewiness, especially in quick breads and cakes. Baking powder, by contrast, offered a more neutral flavor and consistently resulted in a lighter crumb. It allowed bakers to move away from strong molasses and buttermilk flavors used to balance potash, resulting in the sweeter, fluffier cakes familiar today.

Regional Variations in Potash Use

The use of potash varied across the colonies. In the Northeast and Appalachian regions, where hardwood forests were abundant and molasses was a common sweetener, potash remained in use longer—especially among rural homesteads. In German- and Dutch-influenced areas like Pennsylvania, cooks developed refined versions of traditional baked goods (such as honey cakes and lebkuchen) using pearl ash. Southern cooks were more likely to switch earlier to baking soda and sour milk once commercial supply chains improved.

Comparison of Leaveners

Leavener	Source	Needs Acid?	Use	Flavor	Consistency
Potash	Wood ash	Yes	Breads	Alkaline	Unrefined
Pearl Ash	Refined potash	Yes	Cakes	Mild	Reliable
Baking Powder	Commercial blend	No	All baking	Neutral	Very consistent

Griddle Cakes Before Johnnycakes: A Historical Comparison

Medieval Flat Cakes (14th–15th c.)

Source: Le Ménagier de Paris (1393)
Typical Ingredients: Wheat flour, milk or water, egg (optional)
Cooking Method: Griddled on a flat iron, stone, or in a pan with fat

“Make a paste with white flour and warm water... roll thin and bake on the iron.”

These cakes were simple and unleavened, sometimes brushed with fat or sprinkled with sugar. Texture would be dense and chewy. A modern interpretation uses wheat flour and warm water to form a thick dough, rolled or patted thin, then cooked on a dry or greased skillet.

Early Modern Pancakes (16th c.)

Source: A Proper Newe Booke of Cokerye (c. 1557)
Typical Ingredients: White flour, eggs, milk or ale/wine, spices
Cooking Method: Fried on a griddle or pan with butter/lard

“To make pancakes. Take two or three eggs, a dish of flour, and half a pint of milk. Beat them together and fry them in butter.”

These pancakes were thinner, lighter, and crispier—thanks to the addition of eggs and sometimes alcohol. A modern version might whisk 2 eggs, 1 cup flour, and ½ cup ale or milk, then fry in a buttered pan until golden.

Colonial Johnnycakes (17th–18th c.)

Source: Indigenous North American cooking, adapted by colonists
Typical Ingredients: Cornmeal, water or milk, salt, fat or molasses
Optional Leavening: Potash or pearl ash
Cooking Method: Griddled, stone-baked, or pan-fried

“Indian meal, scalded, mixed with salt, milk, or cream, and baked on a griddle or board.” — Amelia Simmons, 1796

Colonial johnnycakes often used hot water to soften cornmeal, sometimes with milk or sweeteners. When leavened with potash, they developed a slightly fluffy interior with a crisp outer crust.

Summary: Griddle Cake Evolution

Period	Dish	Grain Base	Leavening	Fat Used	Texture	Region
14th c.	Iron cakes / wafers	Wheat	None	None or lard	Dense, flat	France, England
16th c.	Pancakes	Wheat	Eggs	Butter/lard	Thin, crisp	England
17th–18th c.	Johnnycakes	Cornmeal	None or potash	Drippings or none	Crisp outside, tender inside	Colonial America

Timeline of Leavening

• Pre-1600s: Natural fermentation
• 1600s–1700s: Potash use in breads
• 1796: Pearl ash in American Cookery
• 1830s: Hartshorn for cookies
• 1850s: Commercial baking powders introduced
• 1880s+: Double-acting powders dominate

Where to Find Historical Leaveners Today

If you're interested in experimenting with historic recipes, you can still obtain several early leavening agents with care. Be sure to use only food-grade versions, and always follow recipes that include appropriate acidic ingredients when working with alkaline leaveners like potash or pearl ash.

Reputable Sources

• Pearl Ash (Food-grade Potassium Carbonate):
  - Lehman's: Carries pearl ash suitable for reenactment or heritage baking
  - Amazon: Search for “potassium carbonate, food-grade” (check vendor reviews)
• Hartshorn (Ammonium Carbonate):
  - King Arthur Baking: Sold as “Baker’s Ammonia”
  - Amazon: Look for “Baker’s Ammonia” or “Hartshorn” (food-grade only)
• Potash (Historical or DIY):
  - True culinary-grade historical potash is rare. For educational or reenactment use, you can try making it at home from hardwood ashes.
  - Permies Forum Guide: Practical advice on making your own potash safely

⚠️ Note: Commercial potash sold for fertilizer or soapmaking is not food-safe. Always verify the product is labeled for culinary use before baking.

To explore more, read From Ashes to Antlers.

More Forgotten Leaveners

Discover hartshorn and other historic techniques in our full guide.

Browse all leavening articles here.