Piatti di Salumi: Renaissance Antipasti & Mostarda (period and non-period recipe included)

“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.

Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.

Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda

While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.

Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.

For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.

Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)

How Scappi’s mostarda differs from the modern chutney used at feast

Aspect	Period (Scappi, 1570)	Modern Chutney Used	Practical Notes
Fruits	Quince & apples; candied citrus peels	Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries	Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume
Sweet/acid	Sugar + wine + grape must	Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar	Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar
Heat	Mustard essence/seed	Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne	Adjust heat post-cook to taste
Texture	Smooth, pounded sauce	Chunky, spoonable conserve	Either pairs well with salumi & cheese
Make-ahead?	Yes — improves with rest	Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated	Ideal for feast workflow

Cold Roast Chicken with Sauce Options – Collegium Lunch Tavern (2016)

 Cold Roast Chicken with Sauce Options – Collegium Lunch Tavern (2016)

As part of the 2016 Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern, this cold roast chicken dish provided a reliable, prep-ahead protein that paired beautifully with multiple historical sauce options. It was designed for efficient service, minimal equipment, and flexible flavor pairings for a large crowd.

While the chicken itself was seasoned simply with salt, pepper, olive oil, and garlic and roasted at 350°F, the real variety came from the sauces served alongside it. Each guest could choose from three distinct historical condiments—each with unique flavor profiles suited to different palates.

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Chicken Preparation (Basic)

• Chicken seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic, and olive oil

• Roasted at 350°F until cooked through

• Served cold, sliced, or whole depending on setting

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White Garlic Sauce

A rich, nut-based sauce using almonds, broth, and breadcrumbs.

Ingredients:

• 2–3 garlic cloves, crushed

• ½ cup slivered almonds

• 2 tbsp breadcrumbs

• 1–2 cups chicken broth

Instructions: Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and grind until smooth. Strain through a sieve for better texture. Serve cold.

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Cold Sage Sauce

Herb-forward and lightly spiced, this green sauce offers an earthier option.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup fresh parsley

• 1 cup fresh sage

• 1 cup hot chicken broth or bouillon

• ¼ cup white wine vinegar

• 2 hard-boiled egg yolks (optional; omit for simpler version)

• ½ tsp salt

• ½ tsp ginger

• ¼ tsp grains of paradise or cinnamon

• 2 slices white bread, crusts removed

Instructions: Blend parsley and sage with hot broth. Separately mash egg yolks with vinegar and combine. Add spices and slowly incorporate bread until desired thickness. Serve cool.

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Must Sauce

A sweet-tart grape-based sauce with warming spices.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup grape juice concentrate

• ¼ to ½ cup water

• ½–1 tsp cinnamon

• ¼ tsp ginger

• 1 egg, beaten

• 1 tbsp honey

• ½ tsp grains of paradise

Instructions: Heat juice and water, add spices, and bring to a simmer. Temper in egg, then stir to thicken. Add honey and simmer gently. Serve chilled.

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Historical Notes

While the exact manuscript sources for these sauces are unclear, they reflect ingredients and methods consistent with late medieval and early modern English cookery. Almond-thickened garlic sauces, herb purées with vinegar, and spiced must-based condiments appear in sources such as The Forme of Cury, A Book of Cookrye (1591), and similar compilations.

Serving Notes

Each sauce was prepared the day before the event and held well overnight in sealed containers. Guests appreciated the variety and the ability to customize their plates. These sauces can also be paired with pork, veal, or vegetables depending on the setting.