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Showing posts with label Medieval Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Medieval Food. Show all posts

A Dynere of Flesche — John Russell’s Medieval Feast and the Logic of Digestion

A Dynere of Flesche — John Russell’s Medieval Feast and the Logic of Digestion

Medieval banquet scene with a roasted peacock re-dressed in its feathers presented at table.
Roasted peacock served “re-plumed,” a classic showpiece in late-medieval banquets. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Introduction

In the mid-fifteenth century, court official John Russell compiled the Boke of Nurture (Harley MS 4011), a manual of etiquette, service, and feasting. Among its most intriguing passages is “A Dynere of Flesche”—a model feast for a flesh day. At first glance it reads like excess: swan, peacock, venison, custards, jellies, fritters, sotelties. But beneath the display lies clear order, guided by humoral theory and the theory of digestion.

  • Humoral theory:
    • Foods are classified hot/cold, moist/dry.
    • The goal was balance — so heavy/dry meats might be paired with moist/sweet sauces, or cooling jellies follow heating roasts.
  • Theory of Digestion (stomach as a fireplace model):

    • Light, quick-digesting foods first (whet the appetite, “open the stomach”).

    • Heavy meats mid-meal (need the appetite at full flame).

    • Cooling or binding foods at the end (to “close the stomach” and aid digestion).

    • Spices and hippocras (spiced wine) seal the stomach and prevent putrefaction.

Feasting, Status, and Seasonality

Russell’s menu was a model feast—aspirational and didactic. It reflected both status and medical order:

  • Luxury foods: swan, peacock, crane, bustard, sea bream inland, imported sugar, almonds, and rice.
  • Sotelties: allegorical sugar or pastry sculptures, more about piety and performance than eating.
  • Hierarchy: the high table saw the full spread; lower tables ate simpler portions.
  • Seasonality: autumn/winter hunting game + preserved foods (brawn, baked quinces, hippocras). Likely a winter festival setting—Christmas or Twelfth Night.

The Logic of the Courses

First Course: Awakening the Appetite

The feast begins with brawn of boar with mustard. Preserved brawn (salted/pressed) was hot/dry, paired with mustard (also hot/dry) to stimulate appetite. Then came pottages of herbs, spice, and wine (warm, moist, aromatic), followed by staples—beef and mutton, heavy and dry but softened by sauces. Showpieces—pheasant and swan with chawdron sauce, capons, pig, venison bake—balanced humors by variety. The course lifted with leches and fritters, hot/oily appetite stimulants, and paused with a sotelty of the Annunciation.

Second Course: Heaviest Roasts & Entremets

The second course starts gently with blancmanger (chicken and almond, moist and white) and jellies (cooling, clarifying). Then came the heaviest fare: venison, kid, fawn, coney, bustard, stork, crane, peacock, heron. These were dry/hot meats, demanding the stomach’s “strongest fire.”

Between them: entremets—custards, pastries, sweet leches—moist refreshers, palate cleansers, and spectacles. A fritter revived appetite, and an angelic sotelty provided allegory and pause.

Third Course: Stepping Down

Cream of almonds and mawmany were restorative and nourishing. Smaller roasts—curlews, snipes, quails, sparrows—replaced great birds. Moist/cooling dishes returned: perch in jelly, crayfish. Quinces baked (astringent) helped close digestion, alongside sage fritters and spiced leches. A Magi sotelty provided solemn close.

Finale: Issue & Sendoff

The issue de table included pippins (apples) with caraway comfits, custard (blaunderelle), wafers, and hippocras. Apples (cold/dry) restrained excess; caraway (hot/dry) dispelled wind; hippocras (spiced wine) “sealed” the stomach.

Overall Temperament by Course

Hot Cold Moist Dry Astringent
Course / Stage Overall Temperament Why this net effect?
First Course Hot Dry (+Moist from pottages) Opens with mustard & preserved brawn (hot/dry stimulants), then warm/moist pottages; heavy meats appear early but are sauced. Net effect = warming/activating with a slight dry edge to “open the stomach.”
Second Course Hot Dry (+ moderated by Moist entremets) Heaviest roasts (venison, crane, peacock) are hot/dry at peak digestion; custards/jellies (entremets) punctuate to moisten/refresh. Net effect = the feast’s hottest/driest point, tempered between platters.
Third Course Moist Cool (+ Astringent close) Steps down with smaller birds and moist/cooling fish in jelly; baked quinces add astringency to begin closure; sage fritters give brief warmth without flipping the net trend.
Finale (Issue & Boute-hors) Cool Dry → sealed by HotDry (hippocras) Raw apples + caraway comfits = cool/dry & wind-dispelling; wafers are light/dry. Final seal with hippocras (hot/dry) “closes the stomach” and guards against putrefaction.


Show SCA stages with temperament
SCA StageTemperamentNotes
On Table / EntranceHotDryMustard & brawn stimulate and announce status.
Pottages & Gentle DishesMoistWarmOpens and soothes the stomach.
Great RoastsHotDryPeak heat/dryness; serve when digestion is strongest.
EntremetsMoistCoolPalate/digestion refreshers between roasts.
Lighter Birds & FishMoistCoolStep-down phase toward closure.
Dessert / FruitAstringentBegins the “binding” close (quinces, etc.).
IssueCoolDryRaw apples + comfits; wafers light and crisp.
Boute-horsHotDryHippocras seals the stomach.

Feast Planning with Russell’s Menu

For SCA feast planners, Russell’s feast maps neatly into modern service frameworks:

Downloadable Resources:

StageDishes from Russell’s MenuDigestive Role
On Table / EntranceMustard & brawnStimulates appetite, prestige
PottagesPottage, blancmanger, jelliesGentle starters, open stomach
Great RoastsBeef, mutton, venison, swan, peacock, bustard, crane, etc.Heaviest, driest meats; mid-digestion
EntremetsCustards, pastries, fritters, soteltiesPalate refreshers, visual allegories
Lighter Birds & FishCurlew, quail, perch in jelly, crayfishMoist/cooling, easier to digest
Dessert / FruitQuinces baked, sage frittersAstringent closure, sharpen digestion
IssueApples with caraway, wafersRefresh and bind, dispel wind
Boute-horsHippocrasSpiced wine to seal digestion

Mythbusting Russell’s Feast

  • “Feasts were chaotic.” ❌ They followed medical choreography.
  • “Everyone ate the same food.” ❌ Hierarchy dictated portions.
  • “Peacock and swan were delicacies.” ❌ They were tough; value lay in spectacle.
  • “Sugar was common.” ❌ It was a costly luxury spice.
  • “Fritters were desserts only.” ❌ They appear in every course as stimulants.
  • “Fruit was always cooked.” ❌ The pippins at issue were raw, paired with comfits.

✅ Dos & ❌ Don’ts by Course

  • First Course
    ✅ Pair heavy meats with moist dishes (pottage, sauce)
    ❌ Don’t open with multiple cold/moist foods — they dull appetite
  • Second Course
    ✅ Interleave entremets between heavy roasts
    ❌ Don’t serve only hot/dry roasts back-to-back — digestion overload
  • Third Course
    ✅ Use cooling/moist dishes (fish, almond cream) to “calm the stomach”
    ❌ Don’t drop in new hot/dry meats here — it reverses the descent
  • Finale
    ✅ Always end with an astringent fruit + spiced closer
    ❌ Don’t pile sweets without balance — needs closure to “seal digestion”

Conclusion

Russell’s Dynere of Flesche shows that medieval dining was deliberate: humoral balance, digestive order, spectacle, and hierarchy all interlaced. What seems like excess was careful choreography. For modern readers—and especially SCA feast stewards—it offers both inspiration and a reminder: a medieval feast was an art of health and performance.

Why this matters today: Russell’s feast reminds us that medieval banquets were not chaotic indulgence, but carefully balanced systems of health, status, and art. It’s a reminder that food has always been about more than eating—it shapes identity, power, and performance at the table.

Glossary: a few terms
  • Chawdron: rich sauce of entrails/offal.
  • Entremets: “between-dishes” (light/spectacular interludes).
  • Sotelty: edible allegory/sculpture, more for the eyes than the stomach.
  • Issue de table: light closing bites after courses.
  • Boute-hors: sendoff drink(s), e.g., hippocras.

Source: John Russell, Boke of Nurture, Harleian MS 4011, fol. 171 (c. 1460).

Further reading
  • Flandrin & Montanari (eds.), Food: A Culinary History — feast structure.
  • Hieatt & Butler (eds.), Curye on Inglysch — Middle English recipes.
  • Adamson, Food in Medieval Times — ingredients, trade, status.


What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

🍳 What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Poached eggs in a pale milk sauce — Eyron en Pan, a medieval breakfast dish
Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed, folded directly into the dough.

While the word "breakfast" existed in medieval English, it didn’t mean what it does today. Most people in the Middle Ages ate one or two meals per day, and early meals were typically reserved for laborers, the sick, or the very wealthy. However, there were still foods enjoyed in the morning to break the night’s fast—especially during feast days, travel, or before demanding work.

This post gathers ten historically inspired dishes from primary sources like Harleian MS 279 and Renaissance German cookbooks that could have graced a medieval table in the morning hours.

⚠️ Historical Note: The term "breakfast" in the medieval world referred to the act of breaking one's fast after sleep, not a structured meal like today. Our use here reflects the modern definition: the first meal of the day.

1. Rastons

Rastons (Harleian MS 279): A rich, egg- and ale-enriched pastry loaf once mistaken for bread. Served sliced into “sops” — thick pieces of bread meant to soak up broth or milk — Rastons were an early morning or supper dish that blurred the line between bread and indulgent pastry. Perfect warm from the oven or reheated with broth poured over top.

2. Soupes Dorye

Soupes Dorye (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread sops soaked in almond milk, saffron, and warming spices. A gentle, nourishing dish, especially favored on fast days or during illness recovery—delicate, comforting, and easy to digest.

3. Lyode Soppes

Lyode Soppes (Harleian MS 279): A custardy bread pudding made with milk, egg, and warm spices. Served hot and soft, it’s one of the earliest surviving recipes for a sweet breakfast pudding—perfect for breaking a medieval fast.

4. Soupes Jamberlayne

Soupes Jamberlayne (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread soaked in spiced, sweetened wine and served warm. This elegant dish reflects the medieval love of richly flavored comfort foods, especially in noble households or for special occasions.

5. Egges yn Brewte

Egges yn Brewte (Gentyll Manly Cokere, MS Pepys 1047): Poached eggs served in a saffron-colored broth with cheese and warming spices. A refined dish likely served to the wealthy or clerics, offering protein and elegance in equal measure.

6. Eyron en Poche

Eyron en Poche (Harleian MS 279): Poached eggs served with herbs in broth or sauce—simple, nourishing, and elegant. This early morning dish reflects a refined yet accessible preparation for those with access to fresh eggs and kitchen skill.

7. Pressmetzen zu Ostern

Pressmetzen zu Ostern (Renaissance Germany): Soft Lenten rolls flavored with subtle spice and meant for Easter vigil meals. While tied to liturgical feasting, they make a fitting morning bread—especially for fast-day observance or travel.

8. Spiced Apples and Pears

Spiced Apples and Pears (Chiquart’s 'On Cookery', 1420): Fruit stewed in wine, honey, and spices—a luxurious dish found in both monastic and elite kitchens. Served warm and fragrant, it made a welcome break to the morning fast in colder months.

9. Fennel and Bacon Bread

Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A rustic yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed. This hearty loaf was likely eaten fresh in the morning or packed for travel—savory, sustaining, and deeply flavorful.

10. Frumenty and Venyson in Broth

Venyson in Broth with Frumenty (Harleian MS 279): Tender game meat in spiced broth, served with a cracked wheat porridge. Though rich by modern standards, this would have been an energizing dish for hunters or noble households before a day of labor or travel.


These dishes reveal the breadth and nuance of medieval morning meals—even if they weren't always called "breakfast" by name. Whether you’re prepping for an SCA feast, building a persona menu, or just want to try something historically inspired, these options offer a window into what it meant to break the fast in centuries past.

Want more? Explore these tags to expand your medieval breakfast table:


An Apple a Day – Five Medieval Apple Recipes (Candy, Pottages & Purées)

An Apple a Day – Five Medieval Apple Recipes (Candy, Pottages & Purées)

An Apple a Day – The Use of Apples in Medieval Cooking

Apples belong to the Rosaceae family alongside pears, quinces, loquats and even roses. Ancient records show cultivated apples in Jericho (c. 6500 BCE), while Theophrastus (323 BCE) detailed budding and grafting techniques for at least six varieties. Medieval cooks embraced apples in preserves, pottages and sauces. Below you’ll find five period recipes that showcase the fruit’s versatility.


🍎 Featured Collection:
This roundup explores five medieval apple recipes from Harleian MS. 279 and beyond. Whether you’re preparing a feast, looking for historical comfort food, or experimenting with humoral theory, these dishes showcase the incredible range of apple-based cookery in the Middle Ages.

To Candy Any Root, Fruit or Flower ↩︎

Sugared plums—a period candy technique also used for apples
Sugared plums; apples work just as well.

To Candy Any Root, Fruit or Flower — a simple syrup‑based method for preserving everything from apples to carrots. Perfect for feast subtleties or everyday treats.


Apple Muse – Warm Apple Purée in Almond Milk ↩︎

Apple Muse—pink‑tinted medieval apple purée
Apple Muse, delicately pink from sandalwood.

lxxix. Apple Muse — apples simmered with honey in almond milk, tinted with sandalwood, lightly spiced with saffron. Served warm as pottage, sauce or appetizer.


Apple Moyle – Sweet Apple Porridge ↩︎

Bowl of Apple Moyle porridge
Sweet, spiced apple comfort food.

cxxxiiij. Apple Moyle — a warming apple porridge, sweetened with sugar and seasoned with Good Powder (ginger, cinnamon, mace, clove, pepper). Perfect for chilly mornings.


Applade Ryalle – Three Medieval Apple Soups ↩︎

Applade Ryalle—velvety medieval apple soup
Wine, almond milk, or beef broth base—your choice.

cxxxv. Applade Ryalle — three variations of apple soup: For Nede (wine + honey), Fyshe Day (almond milk) and Fleshe Day (beef broth). Velvet‑smooth and surprisingly elegant.


A Potage of Roysons – Rice, Apples & Raisins ↩︎

Potage of Roysons—rice porridge with apples and raisins
Medieval comfort in a bowl.

cxxxvj. A Potage of Roysons — rice porridge simmered with apples, raisins and honey. A cozy camp breakfast or sweet feast finale.


A Potage of Roysons – Medieval Apple and Raisin Rice Porridge (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) – Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons – Rice Porridge with Apples and Raisins

🥕 Includes Dietary Notes!

Today's recipe adventure from the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab 1430) explores Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons, a gentle almond-milk-based pottage thickened with rice flour and dotted with apples and raisins.

This dish would likely have appeared during the pottage course of a medieval meal — possibly served warm with bread during Lent or in the infirmary for the ailing. Its flavor is mild, lightly sweetened with fruit, and comforting. I served this version at an SCA breakfast event, and it went over well, though some testers called it “tasty, but not delicious.” And honestly? Same. I’ve made similar recipes that were more complex — perhaps I’m just still not a fan of raisins.

Original Recipe and Modern Translation
Original Middle English (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430) Modern English Translation
Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons.—Take Raysonys, & do a-way þe kyrnellys; & take a part of Applys, & do a-way þe corys, & þe pare, & bray hem in a mortere, & temper hem with Almande Mylke, & melle hem with flowre of Rys, þat it be clene chargeaunt, & straw vppe-on pouder of Galyngale & of Gyngere, & serue it forth. Take raisins and remove the seeds. Take some apples, remove the cores and peel them. Mash them in a mortar, and mix them with almond milk. Stir in rice flour until the mixture is thick. Sprinkle with powdered galangal and ginger, and serve.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

Ingredients

  • 4 apples, peeled, cored, and diced
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 8 cups almond milk
  • 1/2 cup honey (optional, to taste)
  • 1 cup rice flour
  • 2 tsp ginger (or period Good Powder blend)
  • 1/2 tsp salt

Instructions

  1. Warm almond milk with honey and ginger in a large pot.
  2. Add apples and raisins. Simmer gently until the fruit softens, about 10–15 minutes.
  3. Whisk in rice flour and stir continuously until it thickens like porridge.
  4. Stir in salt. Garnish with ginger or galangal powder if desired. Serve warm.

The Role of Raisins in Medieval Cooking

Raisins were frequently used in medieval recipes—not just for desserts, but to enrich and sweeten savory dishes as well. They appear in pottages, sauces, pies, and even stews, often alongside almond milk and rice flour. Their inclusion helped balance humors and added perceived nourishment to lean or fast-day meals.

Cooking Method: What “Temper” Might Mean

The original recipe uses the term “temper hem with Almande Mylke,” which may imply either blending or gradual heating. I chose to warm the almond milk with honey and ginger, then cook the fruit in it gently before adding the rice flour to thicken. This method draws out more flavor from the raisins and apple while creating a smooth, creamy texture.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions:
This dish is naturally vegan and gluten-free if prepared with certified rice flour and almond milk.
  • For a vegan version: Use maple or date syrup in place of honey.
  • Nut-free option: Substitute oat or rice milk for almond milk.
  • Camp cooking tip: Premix powdered almond milk, rice flour, and ginger. Add dried apples and raisins on-site with water and heat to serve.
  • Texture tweak: Blend the apple and raisins before cooking for a smoother porridge.
🔎 Looking for Similar Recipes?
If you enjoyed A Potage of Roysons, you might also like these other fruit- and almond-based dishes from the same manuscript:

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread (Harleian MS 279)

Rastons: A Medieval Pastry Disguised as Bread

Rastons loaf cut into sops

A loaf baked and sliced into “sops.”

This month I’m focusing on sops and pottages from Harleian MS 279. In medieval cuisine, sops were thick slices of bread soaked in broth and served at the start of a meal—think of the bread on top of French onion soup. Pottages were simple soups or stews, common fare for all classes, yet rarely highlighted in SCA feast menus.

To complement these dishes, I recreated a historical recipe for Rastons—a small, enriched round loaf found in 15th-century manuscripts. Traditionally, the top was cut from the bread like a crown, the crumb scooped and mixed with clarified butter, and then baked again. For my purposes, I simplified this process and sliced the loaf into sops instead.

Wondering how this fits into a medieval day? Rastons can be served in the early morning hours as a sop—bread meant to soak up warm broth, milk, or wine. Learn more in my post on What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Original Recipe – Harleian MS 279:

.xxv. Rastons.—Take fayre Flowre, & the whyte of Eyroun, & the ȝolke, a lytel; þan take Warme Berme, & putte al þes to-gederys, & bete hem to-gederys with þin hond tyl it be schort & þikke y-now, & caste Sugre y-now þer-to, & þenne lat reste a whyle; þan kaste in a fayre place in þe oven, & late bake y-now; & þen with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, & kepe þe cruste þat þou kyttyst; & þan pyke al þe cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with þin knyf, & saue þe sydys & al þe cruste hole with-owte; & þan caste þer-in clarifiyd Boter, & Mille (mix) þe cromeȝ & þe botere to-gedereȝ, & keuere it a-ȝen with þe cruste, þat þou kyttest a-way; þan putte it in þe ovyn aȝen a lytil tyme; & þan take it out, & serue it forth.

Modern Interpretation by Dan Myers at Medieval Cookery:

Take fair flour, egg whites and a little yolk, warm barm (or yeast in ale), and beat them together until thick. Add sugar and let rest. Shape and bake. Cut a crown from the top, crumble the inside, mix with clarified butter, refill, replace crown, and bake again briefly. Serve warm.

My Adaptation:

  • 3–4 cups flour (3:1 white to whole wheat)
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • 1 cup warm ale (Brown Barrel Bomber, bourbon barrel aged)
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 packet dry yeast

To simulate ale barm, I dissolved dry yeast into warm ale. I then created a sponge by mixing ½ cup flour with the ale, sugar, and eggs, and allowed it to ferment for 20 minutes.

Rastons sponge fermenting

Sponge after proofing 20 minutes

I combined the sponge with the rest of the flour and kneaded it into a soft dough, which I shaped into a round loaf and allowed to rise until doubled. Then I baked it at 450°F for 20 minutes until hollow-sounding and golden.

Freshly baked rastons loaf

Soft, tender crumb with a good crust—perfect for slicing into sops.

This bread—er, pastry—was a hit! The crust was crisp, the inside soft and flavorful from the ale. I preferred it even to my usual Manchet or French loaves.

Is Rastons Bread or Pastry?

Jim Chevallier, a noted food historian, points out that Rastons are not technically bread—the addition of eggs classifies them closer to pastry. The term “ratons” in French supports this classification. So while we often treat them like bread, they likely occupied a distinct place in medieval baking.

“CECI N'EST PAS UN PAIN... These were NOT breads. The recipe in question includes egg whites and yolks, reflecting the fact that a raton was a PASTRY.”

🔗 Related Links:

🍞 Curious About Medieval Bread?

If you’re wondering how Rastons compare to common breads of the Middle Ages, check out my earlier post: On the Making of Bread. It explores what everyday bread looked like, how it was made, and how Rastons fit into the broader medieval baking tradition.

Next Up: I’ll be using these Rastons in a series of posts about medieval sops and pottages. Stay tuned!


#medievalfood #harleianMS279 #scacook #scafeast #historicrecipes #rastons #sops #pottage #medievalbaking #notbread

Fourteenth-Century Italian Feast – A Historical Menu Reconstructed February 24, 2001

Detail from “The Feast in the House of Levi” (1573), Paolo Veronese—an evocative Renaissance banquet scene setting the tone for our reconstructed medieval Italian feast.

Fourteenth-Century Italian Feast  

On February 24, 2001, at the VA Medical Center, I cooked this feast for Ceilidh XIV. It was a reconstruction of a fourteenth-century Italian banquet, drawing from sources such as Redon, Sabban & Serventi (The Medieval Kitchen) and Scully (The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages). While some of my original redactions have been lost to time, the surviving notes and recipes are preserved here, alongside new adaptations.

This hub collects the menu at a glance, with links to each individual dish. Each recipe page includes the original text, modern interpretation, substitutions (🥕 Dietary Suggestions), and cook’s notes for scaling to feasts.