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Showing posts with label Renaissance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Renaissance. Show all posts

White Bread in Early Modern England: Manchets (1594) vs. Robert May’s French Bread (1685)

White Bread in Early Modern England: Manchets (1594) vs Robert May’s French Bread (1685)
Golden manchet loaves and rounds with fine crumb and traditional equator cut.
Fine white breads on the English table, 16th–17th c.

Can you imagine eating two to three pounds of bread a day—and washing it down with ale? In late medieval and early modern kitchens, bread was the staple, from four-day-old trencher loaves to fine white table bread. This overview compares two elite white breads I bake often: manchet “after my Ladie Graies use” (1594) and Robert May’s “French bread” (1685).

Almond Milk Recipes in the Middle Ages — Variants from Water to Wine

Whole almonds in a rustic bowl—staple base for medieval almond milk
Almonds were the medieval cook’s “milk” on fast days—drawn with water, sugar-water, broth, or even wine.

Almond Milk in Period Sources — How Medieval Cooks Made It (and Variations)

Originally published 1/2/2015 / updated 10/1/2025

For roughly a third of the medieval calendar—Lent and other fast days—cooks avoided meat, dairy, and eggs. Far from the stereotype of endless roasts, elite kitchens leaned on almond milk as a flexible stand-in for dairy: it could be drawn “thick” or “thin,” seasoned sweet or savory, and tailored to the dish at hand.

Because every trained cook knew how to make it, many manuscripts don’t bother giving a basic recipe. When they do spell it out, we learn that medieval almond milk could be drawn with plain water, sugar-water (white or “black”/brownish sugar), or tempered with honey—and in practice, cooks also drew it with broth for savory dishes, or wine for rich Lenten fare and sweets. Below are period texts with clean translations, followed by kitchen-ready modern methods for each variant.


Primary Recipes (Original & Translation)

Harleian MS 279 (c. 1430) — “Froyde almoundys” (Cold Almond Milk, sugar-water)

Original

xj. Froyde almoundys. Take blake sugre, an cold water, an do hem to in a fayre potte, an let hem boyle to-gedere, an salt it an skeme it clene, an let it kele; j^an take almaundys, an blawnche hem clene, an stampe hem, an draw hem, with fe sugre water thikke y-now, in-to a fayre vessel: an [yf] fe mylke be nojt swete y-now, take whyte sugre an caste fer-to.

Modern English

11. Cold Almond Milk. Take black sugar and cold water and put them in a pot; let them boil together, salt and skim clean, and let it cool. Then take almonds, blanch them, and grind them; draw them with the sugar-water thick enough into a fair vessel. If the milk is not sweet enough, add white sugar.

Source: Austin, Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, Harl. MS 279.

Harleian MS 4016 (c. 1450) — “Froyte de almondes” (Cold Almond Milk, sugar-water)

Original

Froyte de almondes. Take blak sugur and cold water, and caste the sugur and þe water in a potte; and lete hem boile togidre, and salt, and skeme hem clene, and let hit kele; And þen take Almoundes, and blanche hem clene, and stampe hem in a morter al smal, and drawe hem thik ynowe thorgh a streyner with sugur water… And serue hit forth in maner of potage, And namely in lenton tyme.

Modern English

Cold Almond Milk. Boil black sugar with water, salt and skim clean, let cool. Blanch and grind almonds very fine; draw them thick enough through a strainer with the sugar-water… Serve it as a kind of pottage, particularly in Lent.

Source: Austin, Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books, Harl. MS 4016.

MS Pepys 1047 — “To make gode almondys mylke” (Honey-tempered)

Original

Take brokyn sugure or for fawte ther of take claryfied hony and put hit into fayre water And set hit on the fyre and boyle hit and skymme hit clene and set hit be syde the fyre and let hit cole and then blanche thy almondys cast them yn a morter and bray them small temper hem up with þe same water.

Modern English

Take crushed sugar—or, if lacking that, clarified honey—and put it in fair water. Set it on the fire, boil and skim clean; set aside and let cool. Then blanch almonds and grind them small; temper them with the same water.

Source: MS Pepys 1047 (transcription at OldCookery.com).

Notes: These texts show the core technique (blanch → grind → draw/strain) and clearly attest to sugar-water and honey-water variants. In practice, medieval recipes also direct cooks to “draw with broth” for savory pottages and sauces, or with wine for certain feast dishes and sweets. “Thick” vs. “thin” is a matter of almond-to-liquid ratio.

Almond Milk in the Middle Ages — History, Humors & Culinary Uses

Bowl of ground almonds ready to be made into almond milk
Ground almonds mixed with water – the basis of almond milk, a medieval staple.

Almond Milk in the Middle Ages — History, Humors & Uses

Originally Published 11/10/2015 / Updated 10/1/2025

“The more things change, the more they remain the same.” That phrase feels especially true when we look at almond milk. Today, we reach for it as a dairy-free alternative in lattes or smoothies. In the Middle Ages, cooks turned to it for many of the same reasons: dietary restrictions, health, and versatility.

Almond milk appears in nearly every major medieval cookbook — from the English Forme of Cury (c. 1390) to French texts like Le Viandier. Whether thickened into custards, stirred into pottages, or sweetened for desserts, it was a foundational ingredient in European kitchens from the 13th–15th centuries. Understanding almond milk helps unlock a whole category of medieval recipes.

Origins & Spread of Almonds

The almond tree (Prunus dulcis) is native to the regions of modern-day Iran and Central Asia. Cultivation spread westward along trade networks into Persia and the Mediterranean by the first millennium BCE. The Greeks and Romans knew almonds well — Roman authors like Pliny the Elder mention them, and they were commonly served at banquets.

Through Roman expansion and later Arab influence in Spain and Sicily, almonds became established throughout southern Europe. By the 9th–10th centuries, almond-based dishes appear in Arabic medical and culinary texts, praised both for flavor and for their gentle, “cooling” effect in humoral medicine.

Almonds on the Move: From Orchard to Feast Table

  • Italy & France: Almonds were cultivated in Mediterranean orchards and imported inland. French and Italian manuscripts from the 13th–14th centuries make frequent use of almond milk in sauces, custards, and pottages.
  • England & Germany: By the late Middle Ages, almonds were arriving in northern ports like London, Lübeck, and Hamburg. They were expensive imports, sometimes listed alongside spices and sugar in customs rolls. Their cost gave them a dual role: practical (for fast days) but also a marker of wealth and status when used lavishly in feasts.
  • Monastic & noble kitchens: Monasteries, bound by fasting rules, relied heavily on almond milk. Nobles embraced it for both practical and prestigious reasons, often specifying “thick” almond milk in their cookery books.

In this way, the humble almond traveled thousands of miles — from Asian orchards to English feasting halls — and almond milk became one of the most common “dairy substitutes” in medieval Europe.

Why Almond Milk Was Essential

  • Religious fasting: Animal milk was prohibited on fast days. Almond milk allowed cooks to create “dairy-like” dishes during Lent and other observances.
  • Shelf life: Fresh cow’s milk spoiled quickly. Almonds, stored dry, could be turned into fresh milk on demand.
  • Status & luxury: Almonds were imported and costly, signaling refinement at noble tables.
  • Versatility: Used in both savory and sweet contexts — soups, sauces, blancmange, custards, even beverages.

Almonds & Humoral Theory

In Galenic medicine, almonds were considered “hot and moist.” Almond milk, tempered with water, was thought gentler on the stomach than cow’s milk and was prescribed for the sick or those with delicate digestion. This idea echoes modern perceptions of almond milk as “lighter” and easier to digest.

How It Was Made

Medieval almond milk was made almost exactly as we do today:

  1. Soak whole almonds, then grind them to a paste with a mortar and pestle.
  2. Mix with warm water, wine, or broth depending on the recipe.
  3. Strain through cloth to produce a smooth liquid.

The ratio determined the thickness. Recipes often call for “thick” almond milk when a rich base was needed, or a thinner version for soups and sauces. Sweetening with sugar, honey, or rosewater was common, while savory versions might use broth or even wine.

Uses in Medieval Cookery

  • Savory: In sauces like Rapeye, in fish pottages, or as the base for meatless soups.
  • Sweet: In blancmange, rice puddings, and custards.
  • Feasts: Almond milk was prepared in large quantities ahead of service — much like we buy cartons today.

Then & Now

The parallels are striking:

  • Medieval: fasting, shelf-stable, luxury, versatile.
  • Modern: vegan/dairy-free, shelf-stable cartons, premium organic blends, versatile in cooking.

What was once a Lenten necessity has become a café staple.

Rose Conserve – Medieval Sugared Petals for Heart & Spirit

Rose conserve in a glass jar, original 2017 blog photo
Rose conserve — my original 2017 photo, refreshed here with updated notes and historical context.

Originally published: October 2, 2017 • Updated: September 19, 2025

Rose Conserve – A Medieval Confection of Petals & Sugar

Rose conserve — also called conserva rosarum — is a perfumed paste of fresh rose petals pounded with sugar. It sits right on the border of food and medicine: sweet enough for the banquet table, soothing enough to appear in apothecary lists. Cool, fragrant, and very old-fashioned in the best way.

To Stew Shrimps – A 17th-Century Dish from Robert May’s Accomplisht Cook (1660)

To Stew Shrimps – A 17th-Century Dish from The Accomplisht Cook (c. 1660)

Seventeenth-century dish of stewed shrimps on toasted bread
To Stew Shrimps being taken out of their shells – The Accomplisht Cook (c. 1660)

Source: The Accomplisht Cook, c. 1660 (Robert May). 

Originally published 10/29/2017. Updated 9/19/2025.

Historical & Culinary Context

This shrimp dish comes from Robert May’s The Accomplisht Cook, one of the most influential English cookbooks of the seventeenth century. First published in 1660, May’s work reflects both medieval traditions and the growing influence of Continental cuisine, especially French and Italian. His recipes were intended for professional cooks serving aristocratic and gentry households, showcasing both practicality and elegance.

Stewed shellfish such as shrimp, cockles, and prawns appear often in May’s book. They were common at English tables, especially in the second course of a banquet or feast, where lighter, more refined dishes were expected after heavier meats. The use of capers, wine, and butter in this recipe signals a clear French influence, blending sharp and savory flavors into a delicate sauce.

Dishes like To Stew Shrimps would likely appear in the second course of a formal meal, accompanying poultry, lighter meats, and vegetable preparations. Served on toast, it could also function as a transitional dish between heavier roasts and sweet entremets.

Humoral Theory

According to Galenic humoral theory still in use during May’s time, shellfish such as shrimp were considered cold and moist. To balance this, cooks paired them with warming, dry ingredients like mace, garlic, pepper, and toasted bread. The addition of vinegar and wine also sharpened and “opened” the dish, believed to aid digestion of the otherwise heavy shellfish.

Ingredient Notes & Substitutions

  • Shrimp: Fresh or raw “peel-and-eat” shrimp work well. Pre-shelled shrimp save effort when cooking for a crowd.
  • Wine: May’s recipe calls for claret, a light red wine. A dry white wine works beautifully in the modern kitchen.
  • Capers: Add sharpness. Substitute chopped green olives if unavailable.
  • Mace: The lacy outer covering of nutmeg. Substitute nutmeg in smaller quantity if mace is unavailable.
  • Bread: Stale white bread was traditional. Any crusty white loaf or baguette makes a good toast base.

🥕 Dietary Notes

  • Gluten-Free: Use gluten-free breadcrumbs and bread rounds.
  • Dairy-Free: Replace butter with olive oil or dairy-free margarine.
  • Allergens: Contains shellfish, eggs, and gluten unless substitutions are made.

Original Recipe (1660)

Wash them well with vinegar, broil or broth them before you take them out of the shells, then put them in a dish with a little claret, vinegar, a handful of capers, mace, pepper, a little grated bread, minced tyme, salt, and the yolks of two or three hard eggs minced, stew all together till you think them enough; then put in a good piece of butter, shake them well together, heat the dish, rub it with a clove of garlick, and put two or three toasts of white bread in the bottom, laying the meat on them. Craw-fish, prawns, or shrimps, are excellent good the same way being taken out of their shells, and make variety of garnish with the shells.

Apple & Curd Pancakes (1682) — A Fryed Meate in Haste for the Second Course

A Fryed Meate (Pancakes) in Haste for the Second Course (The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected, 1682)

Golden apple-and-curd pancakes sprinkled with sugar, adapted from a 1682 English recipe
A Fryed Meate in Haste for the Second Course — apple & curd pancakes finished with sugar.

Originally published 10/29/2017 - updated 9/17/2025

 In late 17th-century English cookery, “meat” can simply mean food/dish, not specifically animal flesh. This recipe from The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected (1682) makes quick, delicate apple-and-curd pancakes scented with rosewater, sack (fortified wine), cinnamon, and nutmeg. It’s a natural fit for a brunch or as a sweet course between heavier roasts. I originally made these for our Curia Regis Brunch set—now updated to my modern format.

Source: The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected (1682) — “A Fryed Meate (Pancakes) in Haste for the Second Course.”

Original Text (1682)

Take a pint of curds made tender of morning milk, pressed clean from the Whey, put to them one handful of flour, six eggs, casting away three whites, a little rosewater, sack, cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar, salt, and two pippins minced small, beat this all together into a thick batter, so that it may not run abroad; if you want wherewith to temper it add cream; when they are fried, scrape on sugar and send them up; if this curd be made with sack, as it may as well as with rennet, you may make a pudding with the whey thereof.

Notes: “Pippins” = firm cooking apples. “Sack” ≈ fortified white wine (e.g., dry sherry). “Curds” today map neatly to drained cottage cheese or farmer’s cheese.

Modern Recipe — Apple & Curd Pancakes (makes ~12 small)

From Sauce to Aspic: The 500-Year Journey of Galentyne → Galantine

From Sauce to Aspic – The 500-Year Journey of Galentyne → Galantine


From hot medieval sauce to elegant cold aspic — the shifting identity of galentyne/galantine.

What’s in a name? Few dishes illustrate the transformations of European cuisine as vividly as galentyne. In the 14th century, it meant a spiced, bread-thickened sauce for meats or fish. By the 19th century, galantine had become a boned, stuffed, aspic-set cold dish — a centerpiece of French haute cuisine. Here we trace that remarkable journey across 500 years, with original recipes and modern adaptations.


Medieval Origins (14th–15th c.)

Harleian MS. 279 (England, c.1430): Fyletes in Galentyne is one of the best known. Pork is roasted, cut up, and stewed with onions, pepper, ginger, bread, and vinegar, finished with blood or sanders for color.

“Take fayre porke of the fore quarter, and rost hit tyl hit be almost ynogh; … and colour hit with blode, or elles with sandres, and then lat hit boyle up wel, and serve it forth.”

See the full recipe in our updated Fyletes in Galentyne post.

Entremets — The Forgotten Medieval Course

Entremets — The Forgotten Medieval Course Between Pottage and Roast
Paolo Veronese, The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), Gallerie dell'Accademia, Venice. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Updated: 2025-09-11 · Labels: Entremet · Feast Planning · Historical Cooking · Medieval · Renaissance

Modern feast menus often jump from a pottage or soup straight to roasts. Historically, diners expected something between. The entremet (Old French: “between-dish”) served as a bridge between heavy services, offering refreshment, surprise, and sometimes outright spectacle. This post explains the term’s origins, how it functioned, where it went, and practical ways to revive it in today’s feasts.

Etymology & Early References

Entremet derives from Old French (entre + mettre/mettre “to place/send in between”), literally a dish interposed between services. The concept appears prominently in 14th‑century French sources such as Le Viandier and later in Le Ménagier de Paris; in English material (e.g., Harleian MS. 279, c.1430) you find dishes that likely filled the same role, even when not labeled “entremet.”

Function of the Entremet

  • Pacing & Palate Reset: a light interlude after dense pottages or fish and before the roasts.
  • Spectacle & Surprise: color shifts, unusual textures, disguised forms, molded shapes.
  • Status & Seasonality: ingredients like saffron, sugar, almonds signal wealth and trade access; colors and motifs reflect seasonal/religious themes.

Entremet vs. Soteltie (Subtlety)

AspectEntremetSoteltie / Subtlety
Purpose Culinary surprise between services; light refreshment Edible (or semi‑edible) display; allegory, heraldry, pageant
Form Real dishes: rice, fritters, jellies, fruit, delicate pottages Sculpted pastry/sugar/marzipan; sometimes inedible components
Placement Between major courses (e.g., after fish/pottage, before roasts) Also between courses, but primarily ceremonial/representational
Examples Blawnche Perrye; colored rice; almond jelly; small fritters Heraldic beasts; castles; motto banners; sugar tableaux

Historical Examples

  • Blawnche Perrye — a light, pale pottage; visually striking early in a feast.
  • Colored rice — saffron‑gold, parsley‑green, or spiced rice for contrast.
  • Fritters — rice or fruit fritters served in small bites.
  • Jellies — molded almond or wine jellies; multicolored effects.
  • Disguised dishes — meats/fish presented in altered forms for surprise.

Regional Variations of the Entremet

While the entremet began in French courtly dining, the idea of a “between dish” spread widely. Each region adapted the form to local tastes, ingredients, and cultural priorities.

France

In sources such as Le Viandier and Le Ménagier de Paris (14th c.), entremets often took spectacular form — multicolored jellies, stuffed or disguised animals, and occasional allegorical displays.

England

English manuscripts like Harleian MS. 279 (~1430) present plainer entremets: light pottages (e.g., Blawnche Perrye), spiced rice, or oyster dishes — emphasizing humoral balance over pageantry.

Italy

Italian masters (Maestro Martino, Scappi) blurred entremets with refined lighter courses: almond milk dishes, sugared rice, small pasta or vegetable preparations with elegant presentation.

Spain & Catalonia

Texts such as Llibre de Coch (1520) show sweet‑leaning entremets — almond pastes, candied fruits, spiced rice — foreshadowing dessert traditions.

Germany

German Speisebücher and later works (e.g., Anna Wecker, 1598) feature Zwischenspeisen (“between‑dishes”): saffron or parsley‑colored rice, Sülze (bright fish/meat jellies), and fritters like Krapfen or Strauben — practical, colorful, and texturally contrasting.

Comparison at a Glance

RegionStyleTypical Entremets
FranceSpectacle & allegoryMulticolored jellies; disguised animals; displays
EnglandPlain & balancingLight pottages; Blawnche Perrye; spiced rice; oysters
ItalyRefined & sweet‑leaningAlmond milk dishes; sugared rice; elegant vegetables/pasta
SpainSweet & aromaticCandied fruit; almond pastes; sweet rice
GermanyPractical & colorfulSaffron/parsley rice; Sülze; fritters (Krapfen, Strauben)

Cultural Implications of the Entremet

  • Status & Wealth: saffron, sugar, and almonds advertised trade connections and prosperity.
  • Hospitality & Generosity: an “extra” dish beyond necessity signaled refined care for guests.
  • Symbolism & Allegory: colors, shapes, and motifs could project heraldry, virtues, or politics.
  • Religious Context: on fast days, almond/fish/rice entremets expressed piety while keeping celebration.
  • Urban vs. Rural: princely or guild feasts layered multiple entremets; smaller households scaled with fruit or fritters.

Techniques & Ingredients for Recreating Historical Entremets Today

Coloring & Flavoring

  • Saffron for gold; spinach/parsley juice for green; beet/red wine for red‑purple.
  • Pouder douce/forte-inspired spice mixes (cinnamon, ginger, grains of paradise/pepper, clove) for warming balance.

Texture & Setting

  • Gelatin sheets as a modern stand‑in for isinglass; almond milk (unsweetened) for dairy‑free jellies/pottages; rice flour for smooth thickening.
  • Use silicone molds or small ramekins for easy unmolding and portion control.

Service & Plating

  • Keep portions amuse‑bouche to tasting‑spoon size.
  • Serve on trenchers or small plates for visual “in‑between” cues.
  • Contrast color/temperature with adjacent courses (e.g., warm saffron rice after a cool fish pottage).

How Preparation & Serving Evolved Across Cultures

  • France: 14th‑c. courtly showpieces; by 17th‑c. service à la française, “entremets” shifts toward plated side dishes (vegetables/sweets).
  • England: lighter, balancing dishes early on; later, subtleties dominate the between‑course spectacle while “entremet” as a named category fades.
  • Italy: refined palate‑cleansers in Martino/Scappi; drift toward sweet course traditions.
  • Germany: practical Zwischenspeisen (colored rice, Sülze, fritters) persist as pacing devices; concept echoes into modern zwischenmahlzeiten (snacks).
  • Spain/Catalonia: sweet, aromatic dishes bridge to the rise of post‑meal desserts.

Social & Political Implications of Elaborate Entremets

  • Political messaging: allegorical colors/figures could reinforce heraldry, dynastic claims, or alliances.
  • Diplomatic theatre: multiple entremets broadcast wealth and organizational prowess to envoys/guests.
  • Religious signalling: fast‑day almond/rice/fish displays piety + generosity.
  • Guild identity: urban companies used entremets to rival noble display and celebrate craft prosperity.
  • Class contrast: layering “extras” underlined hierarchy where common tables had few courses.

Modern Feast Planning: Reviving the Entremet

  • Pick one small, high‑impact dish (colored rice, fritter, molded jelly).
  • Plate for contrast (color/temperature/texture) and keep portions small.
  • Mind humoral balance: pair cold‑moist (oysters, almond milk) with warming spices (ginger, pepper).
  • Leverage dietary wins: many entremets are naturally GF/DF; offer a vegan variant where sensible.

🍽️ Entremet Examples on Give it Forth

FAQ: Does a Modern Galantine Count as an Entremet?

Sometimes. If served as a small, decorative “between” dish (rather than as part of the roast service), a galantine can function as an entremet. Keep portions modest and presentation striking; otherwise it reads as a main meat course.

Sources & Further Reading

Oranges after the Portugal Fashion (Sir Hugh Plat, 1609)

🍊 Oranges after the Portugal Fashion (Sir Hugh Plat, 1609)

Originally published 1/18/2015 - Updated 9/10/2025

Description. This dazzling Renaissance confection comes from Sir Hugh Plat’s Delights for Ladies (1609). “To preserve Orenges after the Portugall fashion” describes a labor-intensive but show-stopping sweet: whole oranges boiled to temper bitterness, candied in syrup, then stuffed with marmalade made from their own pulp. Once finished, they’re sliced like hard-boiled eggs—revealing a jewel-bright center.

Note: Period cooks likely used Seville (bitter) oranges. Sweet oranges make a gentler, less astringent modern result; either works with the method below.

Candied whole oranges simmering in clear sugar syrup, Portugal fashion
Candied whole oranges simmering in syrup.

Historical Recipe (1609)

To preſerue Orenges after the Portugall faſhion. Take Orenges & coare them on the ſide and lay them in water, then boile them in fair water til they be tender, ſhift them in the boyling to take away their bitterneſſe, then take ſugar and boyle it to the height of ſirup as much as will couer them, and ſo put your Orenges into it, and that will make them take ſugar. If you haue 24. Orenges, beate 8. of them till they come to a paſte with a pounde of fine ſugar, then fill euery one of the other Orenges with the ſame, and ſo boile them again in your ſirup: then there will be marmelade of orenges with your orenges, & it will cut like an hard egge.

— Sir Hugh Plat, Delights for Ladies (1609)

Modernized Transcription

To preserve oranges after the Portugal fashion: core each orange on the side and soak in water. Boil in fair water until tender, changing the water to reduce bitterness. Boil sugar to a syrup sufficient to cover and put the oranges in so they take sugar. Of 24 oranges, beat 8 to a paste with a pound of fine sugar and fill the remaining oranges. Boil again in the syrup: you’ll have marmalade of oranges within the oranges, and it will cut like a hard egg.

Torta Bianca – White Tart (Redon, 1998)

Torta Bianca – White Tart (Maestro Martino → Redon, 1998)

Renaissance banquet scene from Veronese’s Feast in the House of Levi, evoking pale white pies like Torta Bianca.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese — banquet context for Renaissance tortes.

Torta bianca (“white tart”) was a dish of status and symbolism. Appearing in Maestro Martino’s Libro de arte coquinaria (c. 1465), it used fresh white cheese, egg whites, sugar, butter, and milk — baked gently, then perfumed with rosewater and sprinkled with sugar. In Renaissance Italy, white foods carried associations of purity, refinement, and health. By Scappi’s time (1570), torte bianche included versions with provatura (fresh stretched-curd cheese) or ricotta blended with Parmigiano.

How this post is structured

Below: (a) Martino’s original Italian text, (b) a literal English translation, (c) Redon’s modern adaptation summary, then a modern tested recipe. Afterward you’ll find 🥕 dietary notes, 📖 menu placement, substitutions, historical notes, cross-links, sources, labels, schema, and ⚖ humoral theory.

Original & Translated Recipes

Maestro Martino (c. 1465) — Italian

Per fare torta biancha. Togli del bono cascio frescho, et biancho, et pistalo molto bene nel mortaro, et metigli del zuccaro, et qualche quarta parte di butiro; et se vi mettessi un poco di lardo tanto meglio serà; poi mettivi alquanti chiari d’ova, et un poco di latte; et mettile sopra lo fuoco piano, et mescola spesso col cocchiaro. Et quando sarà ben mescolato, impastalo con fior di farina, et fa’ la torta cum lo crusto di sopra et di sotto. Et ponila a cocere in lo testo, o al forno, cum fuoco lento di sopra et di sotto; et quando serà cotta, gettagli di sopra un poco di zuccaro et acqua rosata; et serà bona.

Modern English (literal)

To make a white tart. Take good fresh white cheese and pound it very well in a mortar; add sugar and about a quarter part of butter (a little lard is even better); then some egg whites and a little milk. Set it over a gentle fire, stirring often. When well mixed, work it with fine flour, and make the tart with a crust above and below. Bake with gentle heat above and below; when cooked, sprinkle with sugar and rosewater, and it will be good.

Modern Adaptation (Redon)

A baked pie shell filled with a mixture of cream cheese, egg whites, sugar, butter, and milk. Baked until pale, finished with sugar, rosewater, and candied cherries.

Modern Recipe

Diriola – Maestro Martino’s Renaissance Custard Tart with Rosewater & Cinnamon

Diriola – Maestro Martino’s Custard Tart (Libro de arte Coquinaria)

Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of sweet custard tarts like Martino’s diriola.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for Renaissance custard tarts like Martino’s diriola.

Maestro Martino da Como (c. 1465) was one of the most influential cooks of the Renaissance. His Libro de arte Coquinaria includes Diriola, a delicate custard tart scented with cinnamon and rosewater. The dish straddles the line between medieval spiced creams and the refined Renaissance custards we’d recognize today. Redon, Sabban, and Serventi’s The Medieval Kitchen (1998) provides a modern adaptation faithful to Martino’s cues.

Original Recipe (Martino, c.1465)

Italian (15th c.)

“…un poca d’acqua rosata, et volta bene collo cocchiaro. Et quando sarà fornita di prendere, sera cotta. Et nota che non vole cocere troppo et vole tremare como una ionchata.

Per la Quadragesima: Habbi del lacte de le amandole con del zuccharo, et dell’acqua rosata, et de la canella. Et per fare che si prenda gli mettirai un pocha di farina d’amitto, observando in le altre cose l’ordine del capitolo sopra ditto.”

Translation

“…add a little rosewater and stir it well with a spoon. When it begins to set, it is cooked. Note that it should not be over-baked; it should quiver like a junket.

For Lent: take almond milk with sugar, rosewater, and cinnamon. To make it set, add a little starch flour, following the same method as above.”

De la insaleggiata di cipolle – Renaissance Onion Salad with Spices

De la insaleggiata di cipolle – Renaissance Onion Salad (Redon, 1998)

Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of spiced dishes like roasted onion salad.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for Renaissance spiced vegetable dishes such as onion salad.

Context: De la insaleggiata di cipolle is a medieval-to-Renaissance Italian onion “salad.” Onions are roasted in embers or a hot oven until sweet and soft, then sliced and dressed with wine vinegar, oil, and spezie forti (strong spices). These sharp, spiced starters were common on Italian banquet tables as appetite-whetting openers or vegetable accompaniments in the early courses.

Original Recipe (Libro della cucina, 14th c.)

Italian (Zambrini ed., 1863):
“Togli cipolle; cuocile sotto la bragia, e poi le monda, e tagliale per traverso longhette e sottili: mettili alquanto d’aceto, sale, oglio e spezie, e dà a mangiare.”

English (faithful translation):
“Take onions; cook them under the embers; then peel them, and cut them across into long, thin slices; put on a little vinegar, salt, oil, and spices, and serve.”

Redon paraphrase (1998)

“Roast onions in the fire until blackened. Peel, slice finely, and season with salt, vinegar, oil, and spices.”

This dish reaches us in three layers: the terse 14th-century text, Redon’s Renaissance-informed paraphrase, and the modern tested adaptation below.

Comparison: Medieval → Redon → Modern

Source Text / Notes
Libro della cucina (14th c.) “Cook under embers; peel; slice long and thin; dress with a little vinegar, salt, oil, and spices; serve.”
Redon (1998) “Roast in the fire until blackened; peel; slice finely; season with salt, vinegar, oil, and spices.”
Modern (tested) Gives exact quantities, 500°F oven option, spice blend measure, substitutions, and serving notes.

Modern Recipe (Redon-inspired; tested)

Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth

Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth (Redon, 1998)

Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of simple dishes like fava in broth.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese — used here as period context for a Renaissance table.

Context & Notes

Fava fresche con brodo di carne is a rustic Renaissance preparation: fresh spring fava beans briefly simmered in meat broth, enriched with a little cured pork, and finished with parsley and mint. The technique keeps the beans tender while letting a few split to lightly thicken the broth.

Seasonality & status: Fava beans were among the first fresh foods after Lent and signaled the turn from winter storage fare to spring produce. Courtly kitchens “elevated” this staple through refined broth, measured cooking, and aromatic herbs—much as spices elevate simple noodles in De lasanis.

Broth choice: Chicken broth reads lighter and more restorative for warmer weather; beef broth is heartier and “strengthening.” Either appears in period practice depending on the season and desired effect.

Humoral Notes (with pork nuance)

Fava beans: generally cold & moist.
Pork: fresh pork was classed as cold & moist and heavy; salted/cured pork (pancetta, salt belly) was thought to gain warming/drying qualities from salt and smoke—still rich, but more balancing when used sparingly.
Herbs: parsley and mint are warming/aromatic correctives.
Broth: chicken leans lighter; beef leans more warming/fortifying.

Thus this dish pairs a cold/moist base (beans) with modest warming elements (cured pork, hot broth, herbs) to arrive at a comfortable middle course—similar to how spices balanced the cheese-and-pasta profile in De lasanis.

Side-by-Side: Original (Redon, 1998) & Modern Notes

Original (Redon, 1998)

Ingredients: 2 cups beef or chicken broth (or mix), 4½ lb fresh fava beans, 4 oz salt pork belly or pancetta, 1 Tbsp chopped parsley & mint; salt.

Method: Shell beans; blanch briefly (5 seconds), refresh, peel. Dice pork. Simmer broth, beans, and pork ~10 minutes until beans begin to break. Add herbs; return to a brief boil. Salt to taste and serve.

Modern Adaptation – What’s Different?

  • Yield clarity: 4½ lb in-pod ≈ ~1 lb shelled beans.
  • Texture cue: “Begin to break” = lightly thickened broth, not mashed.
  • Herb timing: Herbs added at the end to keep flavors vivid.
  • Pork form matters: Pancetta/salt pork (cured) used in small amount for savor and humoral balance.
  • Broth intent: Chicken for lighter tables; beef for heartier service.

Scappi’s Minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche (1570, Libro III, #249)

Per far minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche:

Piglinosi i piselli o baccelli, sgraninosi, & ponganosi in un uaso con oglio d’oliue, sale, & pepe, & faccianosi soffriggere pian piano, aggiungendovi tanta acqua tinta di zafferano, che stiano coperti di due dita, & come saranno poco men che cotti, pestisene una parte nel mortaro, e stemperisi con il medesimo brodo, & mettasi nel uaso con una branchata d’herbuccie battute, e faccianosi levare il bollo, e servanosi caldi.

 Translation (modern English):

“Take peas or broad beans, shell them, and put them in a pot with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Let them sauté gently, adding in enough water, colored with saffron, to cover them by about two fingers. When they are a little less than cooked, pound part of them in a mortar and dilute that with the same broth; return it to the pot with a handful of chopped herbs, bring it all to a boil, and serve it hot.”

🍲 Modern Recipe

Serves: 4 • Active: 20 min • Total: ~30 min

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (480 ml) beef or chicken broth (or 50/50 mix)
  • 4½ lb (about 2 kg) fresh fava beans in pod (≈ 1 lb / 450 g shelled)
  • 4 oz (115 g) salt pork belly or pancetta, finely diced
  • 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
  • 1 Tbsp fresh mint, chopped
  • Kosher salt, to taste

Method

  1. Prep beans: Shell. Blanch 5 seconds in boiling water, refresh in cold water, slip off the outer skins.
  2. Simmer: In a saucepan, combine broth, diced pork, and beans. Bring to a boil, reduce to a lively simmer, and cook about 10 minutes, until beans just begin to soften and a few split to lightly thicken the broth.
  3. Finish: Stir in parsley and mint; return to a brief boil (30–60 seconds). Season with salt and serve hot.

🍽 Menu Placement (Feast Planning)

  • Dish Type: Pottage (a “wet” course served in or with broth)
  • Course: Second course (Pottage course). Because beans digest heavy in some frameworks, serve moderate portions or as a remove between roasts.
  • Service tips: Offer trenchers or bread to soak up the savory broth.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions

  • Gluten-free.
  • Pork-free: Swap in smoked turkey or omit meat and add 1–2 Tbsp olive oil for body.
  • Vegetarian: Use vegetable broth; finish with a knob of butter or extra-virgin olive oil.

📚 Sources

  • Redon, 1998 (adaptation as provided).
  • Period dietetic summaries consulted for general fresh vs. cured meat distinctions and bean qualities.

🏷 Labels

  • Browse by Dish Type: Pottage
  • Browse by Ingredient: Legumes, Pork, Herbs
  • Browse by Use: Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Humoral Theory
  • Browse by Era: Renaissance, Italian
📖 This recipe is part of the Ceilidh 2001 – Fourteenth-Century Italian Feast .
Explore all dishes from this reconstructed 14th-century Italian banquet.

Del Brodo Saracenico – Saracen Chicken with Fruits & Almonds (Redon, 1998)

Del Brodo Saracenico – Saracen Chicken with Fruits & Almonds (Redon, 1998)
Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of rich savory pies like garlic torte.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.

Del Brodo Saracenico – Saracen Chicken with Fruits & Almonds (Redon, 1998)

Del brodo saracenico appears in medieval Italian sources and in modern redaction by Odile Redon et al. (1998). It marries roasted capon or chicken with wine, tart “acid juices,” toasted bread, almonds, dates, raisins, and a gentle spice blend—classic agrodolce (sweet-tart) Renaissance vibes with an evident Mediterranean/Arabic influence.


📜 Original Historic Recipe

Latin (Liber de Coquina, late 13th c.)

De brodio sarracenio: pro brodio sarraceno, accipe capones assatos et ficatella eorum cum speciebus et pane assato tere bene, distemperando cum bono vino et succis agris. Tunc frange membratim dictos capones et cum predictis mite ad bulliendum in olla, suppositis dactilis, uvis grecis siccis, amigdalis integris mondatis et lardo sufficienti. Colora sicut placet.

English (modern translation)

Saracenic broth: to make Saracenic broth, take roasted capons and their livers with spices and toasted bread, pound them well, diluting with good wine and acidic juices. Then cut the capons into pieces and cook in a pot with the ingredients mentioned before, placing on top dates, Greek raisins, whole peeled almonds, and sufficient lardo. Color as you like.

Note: Source and translation discussion in the references below.

Fungi di Monte – Renaissance Italian Mushrooms from Scappi (1570)

Fungi di Monte – Renaissance Mountain Mushrooms

Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of rich savory pies like garlic torte.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.
Sources: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare, 1570 (Book II, cap. 193); Odile Redon, Françoise Sabban, Silvano Serventi, The Medieval Kitchen, 1998.

Mushrooms were a popular ingredient in Renaissance Italy, eaten in fast-day dishes and served alongside roasted meats. This recipe for Fungi di Monte (“mushrooms of the mountain”) comes to us from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental 1570 Opera. Redon adapts it into a clean, modern version while preserving its essential spicing and method.

Historic Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Per cuocere funghi di monte in più modi. Dopo che saranno ben nettati, si cuociano in acqua calda, & si lascino scolare; poi si facciano soffriggere con cipolla trita, olio, sale, pepe, canella, garofali, & altre buone spetiarie. Si possono anco cuocere con burro fresco, & cacio parmigiano, & similmente si possono friggere in pastello.

Translation

To cook mountain mushrooms in several ways. After they are well cleaned, cook them in hot water and let them drain; then fry them with chopped onion, oil, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and other good spices. They may also be cooked with fresh butter and Parmesan cheese, and likewise they may be fried in batter.

Torta d’Aglio (Garlic Torte) – Renaissance Savory Pie with Cheese, Garlic & Spices

Torta d’Aglio (Garlic Torte)

Italian Renaissance • Savory Pie • Feast-Friendly

Torta d’Aglio (Garlic Torte) – Renaissance Savory Pie with Cheese, Garlic & Spices
Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of rich savory pies like garlic torte.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.

This savory pie highlights gentled garlic — blanched to soften its sharpness, then blended with fresh cheese, butter, and warming spices. Adapted from Martino’s 15th-century Libro de arte coquinaria, the dish balances flavors in line with Renaissance cooking theory and humoral practice.

🥕 Dietary Notes: Vegetarian & gluten-free adaptations included.

Piatti di Salumi: Renaissance Antipasti & Mostarda (period and non-period recipe included)

“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.

Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.

Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda

While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.

Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.

For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.

Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)

How Scappi’s mostarda differs from the modern chutney used at feast
Aspect Period (Scappi, 1570) Modern Chutney Used Practical Notes
Fruits Quince & apples; candied citrus peels Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume
Sweet/acid Sugar + wine + grape must Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar
Heat Mustard essence/seed Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne Adjust heat post-cook to taste
Texture Smooth, pounded sauce Chunky, spoonable conserve Either pairs well with salumi & cheese
Make-ahead? Yes — improves with rest Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated Ideal for feast workflow

Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes for Lent

Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes from Scappi and the Anonimo Veneziano

Two Renaissance dishes: Scappi’s braised onions and the Anonimo Veneziano’s Florentine walnut sauce—perfect for Lenten tables and historical menus.

Renaissance Italian cooks excelled at creating rich, satisfying dishes even during Lenten fasting, when meat, dairy, and animal fats were forbidden. This post brings together two such dishes from different, yet overlapping culinary traditions: Braised Whole Onions from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) and Savor di Noci alla Fiorentina (Florentine Walnut Sauce) from the Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano, 14th–15th century). While separated by time, both recipes reflect the ingenuity of cooks in crafting full-flavored fare from vegetables, nuts, and spices.


Historical Context

Bartolomeo Scappi (c. 1500–1577), personal chef to several popes, authored one of the most detailed Renaissance cookbooks. His onion preparations show how texture (parboil, then gentle frying/braising) and small finishings (sugar & cinnamon, or savory sauces) elevate humble ingredients. The Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano) is a late medieval Italian collection that bridges regional tastes and techniques; its Savor di Noci builds body with bread and nuts and layers in “sweet and strong” spices—an enduring Mediterranean profile that pairs beautifully with vegetables and fish.

Ingredient Notes & Substitutions (Modern vs. Historic)

  • Onions: Scappi favors large onions; modern sweet onions (Vidalia, Walla Walla, Spanish) mimic the gentle flavor. Yellow storage onions work; extend the parboil and finish with a touch more oil.
  • Olive oil vs. animal fat: For Lenten days, oil replaces butter/lard. Use a mild extra-virgin olive oil; historical kitchen oils varied by region and cost but olive oil is authentic to Italy.
  • Verjuice vs. lemon juice: Period recipes commonly use agresto (verjuice). If unavailable, lemon juice or a mix of lemon + a splash of white grape juice or cider vinegar gives similar acidity without wine.
  • Walnuts: European walnuts (English/Persian) are standard. Toast lightly if your nuts taste flat; cool before grinding to avoid bitterness.
  • Parsley: Flat-leaf (Italian) parsley best matches period use; it purées cleaner than curly parsley.
  • Bread & breadcrumbs: Period thickeners were yesterday’s bread crumbs. Use plain white breadcrumbs (no herbs). For gluten-free, use a neutral GF crumb; texture may be slightly looser—reduce broth by 1–2 Tbsp.
  • Stock/broth: The Libro di cucina walnut sauce is built on fish broth; for meatless days use fish stock or vegetable broth. Veg broth yields a milder, greener profile that pairs well with the onions.
  • Sugar & cinnamon finish (onions): Sweet seasonings on savory dishes were fashionable and humoral in intent. A light dusting is correct—aim for aromatic, not dessert-like.
  • Flouring the onions: Scappi allows a light dredge before frying/braising for delicate crust and sheen. Skip for a strictly sauced presentation.
  • Garlic: Raw garlic in the sauce is period-correct; simmering in broth tames sharpness. For gentler flavor, mortar the garlic with salt first.

How These Dishes Reflect Renaissance Culinary Practice & Culture

  • Lenten discipline & ingenuity: Church fasting rules shaped daily menus. Cooks developed satisfying oil-based dishes (no meat/dairy/animal fats) that leaned on vegetables, nuts, bread, and fish. Braised onions in oil and a walnut-thickened sauce are textbook Lenten strategies.
  • Bread as technique, not just starch: Breadcrumbs are a signature medieval–Renaissance thickener, giving body and a silky mouthfeel without dairy.
  • Nuts for richness: Walnuts (and almonds) stand in for cream/butter, delivering both fat and texture. Nut sauces were common across elite and everyday kitchens.
  • Sweet & savory balance: The period palate prized contrasts—sweet with savory, sour with spice. Sugar-cinnamon on onions and “sweet & strong” spice blends in sauces reflect fashionable taste and humoral thinking about balancing qualities.
  • Acid frameworks: Verjuice, citrus, and vinegar brighten dishes and aid digestion. The lemon/verjuice finish on onions and the broth-simmered walnut sauce show this acid thread.
  • Continuity across eras & sources: Pairing a Scappi recipe (printed, 1570) with a Libro di cucina manuscript (14th–15th c.) shows how older medieval techniques persisted and evolved in Renaissance kitchens.
  • Technique-forward cookery: Parboil → drain → gentle oil cook for onions; grind → simmer to thicken for the sauce. Texture management was a core culinary skill in elite households.

Takeaway: These dishes aren’t “making do”—they’re deliberate, technique-driven plates that display Renaissance taste, texture, and balance within the constraints of the liturgical calendar.

Recipe 1: Braised Whole Onions (Scappi, 1570)

Original (summary from Scappi) Modern Translation

Parboil large onions in salted water until well cooked. Drain and prick to release water. Optionally flour them, then fry or braise in olive oil until golden, or stuff them with a spiced nut-and-herb mixture before braising. Serve with sugar and cinnamon, or with garlic or green sauce. (Variants include stuffing with the mixture referenced in Scappi’s eggplant recipes; add cheese and eggs on non-fasting days.)

Parboil onions, drain well, and prick so excess water escapes. Fry or braise in olive oil until tender and golden. Serve sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, or dress with a savory sauce (garlic, green sauce, or the walnut sauce below). Stuffed versions use a spiced nut-herb filling and are finished with verjuice and aromatics.

Italian Renaissance Spit Roasted Beef made with Salted Brisket & Served with Sweet Mustard Sauce from Scappi

Animal detail from medieval illuminated manuscript, British Library Harley MS 3244, 1236-c 1250, f47r

Arrosta — the grand roast course of a Renaissance feast — was far more than just meat on a spit. In Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), the arrosta included an impressive variety: spit-roasted meats, braised vegetables, elegant sauces, pasta, and even colorful jellies. This was the third course of our 12th Night 2024 feast, following the Alesso course. It showcased the depth of Italian Renaissance cooking, balancing hearty dishes with refined accompaniments.

For this feast, we adapted Scappi’s recipes for a modern feast kitchen, using brisket in place of a full rack of beef ribs, seasonal vegetables, and accessible modern cooking methods — without losing the rich flavors of the originals.

Historical Context: The Arrosta in Renaissance Dining

Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to several Popes, published his monumental cookbook in 1570. His work captures both grand courtly dining and practical Lenten fare. The arrosta course was often the centerpiece of a meal, designed to impress guests with skill, abundance, and variety. Alongside the expected roasts, Scappi included vegetable dishes, pasta, and desserts, showing the Renaissance love for balanced and abundant tables.

In Renaissance banquet tradition, the arrosta — literally “roast” — was more than a single dish. It was a set course, positioned after the boiled meats (al lesso) and before the final sweets, and served as a showcase for the host’s wealth, skill, and access to prime ingredients. In Italian and broader European practice, this course could include not only spit-roasted meats, but also fried, grilled, and baked dishes, as well as richly sauced accompaniments.

Theory of Digestion and Humoral Balance

The Renaissance kitchen did not operate solely on taste — it was deeply influenced by the Galenic theory of digestion. According to this model, digestion happened in stages, with foods progressing from lighter and moister to heavier and drier as the meal went on. Roasted meats were considered among the “drier” preparations, especially when spit-roasted over open flame, which was thought to reduce their innate moisture. Without correction, such dishes were believed to tax the body and cause imbalance in the humors, particularly in those of “dry” constitution.

To make these roasts more healthful and digestible, period cooks paired them with moistening sauces — sweet, tart, or spiced — that counterbalanced dryness. This is why Renaissance cookbooks, including Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera (1570), often present roast recipes alongside multiple sauce preparations. In our feast, this principle is reflected in the Salsa di Mostardo amabile (sweet mustard sauce) and the walnut-garlic sauce served with the beef.

Variety Within the Roast Course

While the name suggests a single cooking method, the arrosta could include:

  • Spit-roasted meats — large joints of beef, lamb, game birds.
  • Grilled dishes — chops, skewers, or offal.
  • Fried items — fritters, pastries, and delicate morsels.
  • Baked pies and pasties — often with meat or cheese fillings.

This variety allowed the cook to display mastery over multiple techniques while still keeping within the course’s “dry” category in humoral terms.

Salting as a Preservation Technique

Our beef for this course followed a process rooted in Renaissance preservation methods. Salting was one of the most important means of keeping meat edible beyond the immediate slaughtering period, especially before reliable cold storage. Coarse salt (often mixed with aromatics like fennel, coriander, or garlic) was rubbed into meat to draw out moisture through osmosis, inhibiting bacterial growth. In larger households and urban kitchens, salted meats allowed for advance preparation and easier provisioning — vital for feast service where dozens or even hundreds of guests might be served.

In Scappi’s recipes, salting could be brief — just hours — for seasoning and texture, or extended over several days for preservation. The salted pressed beef method we adapted for our brisket echoes both preservation and seasoning traditions, ensuring flavorful meat that holds its structure through long, slow cooking. In feast context, the ability to produce such meat out of season or far from slaughter was a mark of logistical skill and kitchen sophistication.


Menu

  1. Per arrostire allo spiedo un carré di costolette di manzo – To spit-roast a rack of beef ribs (Brisket substitution) 
  2. Per brasare le cipolle intere in quaresima – To braise whole onions in Lent 
  3. Salsa di noci e aglio – Walnut and Garlic Sauce 
  4. Salsa di Mostardo amabile – Sweet Mustard Sauce 
  5. Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche – Turkish Squash 
  6. Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda – Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style 
  7. Gelo in bocconcini di piu colori piatti – Jelly in small bites, of many colors