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Showing posts with label Pork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pork. Show all posts

Pork Pie with Mustard – William Rabisha (1682)

Pork Pie with Mustard – William Rabisha (1682)

This hearty, spice-layered pork pie was served at the Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern in 2016 as the primary meat offering. Designed for easy transport, room-temperature service, and strong period flavor, this pie drew inspiration from The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected by William Rabisha (1682). Though technically outside the pre-1600 SCA period, Rabisha’s work reflects culinary techniques and seasonings in use during the Elizabethan and early Stuart period—and is commonly used by feast cooks for "late period" interpretations.


Original Recipe (Historical Source)

“Take a Loin of Pork and bone it, and cut thereof into thin collops beaten with the clever... season your Pork with pepper, salt, and minces sage... season your Veal with cloves, mace, nutmeg and minced Thyme... then a laying of pork... and then a laying of your veal... so continue... beat it well into a body, put it in your coffin... bake it: when it is cold, fill it with clarified butter.”
William Rabisha, The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected (1682)


Modern Interpretation

Yields one 9-inch double crust pie

Ingredients:

  • 1 lb pork loin, boned and trimmed of fat

  • 2 egg yolks

  • 1/8 tsp pepper

  • 1/2 tsp salt (divided)

  • 1/4 tsp sage

  • 1/4 tsp thyme

  • 1/8 tsp mace

  • 1/4 tsp nutmeg

  • 1/8 tsp ground cloves

  • 3 tbsp butter, diced

  • 2 pie shells (top and bottom crusts)

Instructions:

  1. Slice the pork as thinly as possible.

  2. Mix half the pork with pepper, sage, thyme, 1 egg yolk, and 1/4 tsp salt.

  3. Mix the remaining pork with mace, nutmeg, cloves, 1 egg yolk, and 1/4 tsp salt.

  4. Layer seasoned pork into the pie shell, alternating between the two mixtures.

  5. Dot each layer with butter.

  6. Seal the pie with the top crust, crimp edges, and vent.

  7. Bake at 450°F for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F and bake an additional 25 minutes.

  8. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Do not refrigerate if you’re aiming for period presentation.


Serving & Sauce Notes

This pork pie was served with mustard—a classic pairing in both period and modern service. Choose stone-ground, whole grain, or period-inspired must sauces. A sweet-and-sharp balance pairs beautifully with the warm spices in the pie.

For historical flair, explore “To Make Mustard Divers Ways”, which includes several period options, including preparations with vinegar, ale, and spices. These make excellent accompaniments to late-period pies or tavern fare. This pork pie was served with mustard—a classic pairing in both period and modern service. Choose stone-ground, whole grain, or period-inspired must sauces. A sweet-and-sharp balance pairs beautifully with the warm spices in the pie.

Vegetarian Alternative – Fridayes Pye (c. 1615)
If you’re feeding a mixed crowd or observing a meatless Friday, consider pairing the pork pie with a vegetable-based option. A Fridayes Pye, also attributed to early 17th-century English sources, uses greens or beets, apples, currants, and ginger for a sweet-savory blend that bakes beautifully in a single crust. It offers a flexible meat-free addition for dayboards or taverns.

Need a Meat-Free Pastry?
For vegetarian pies like A Fridayes Pye, try a butter-based or vegan crust suitable for Lent or no-flesh days. See below for options.


Bonus Recipe: Vegetarian & Vegan Pie Crust Options

Ovo-Lacto Vegetarian Crust:

  • 2 ½ cups flour

  • ½ tsp salt

  • ½ cup cold butter, diced

  • ¼–½ cup cold water

  • Optional: 1 tsp vinegar or orange flower water

Cut butter into flour and salt, add water gradually, and chill before rolling. Suitable for both savory and sweet pies.

Vegan-Friendly Crust (Modern Adaptation):

  • 2 ½ cups flour

  • ½ tsp salt

  • ½ cup refined coconut oil or vegan butter substitute (cold)

  • ¼–½ cup ice water

Mix as above. This crust mimics period fasting-day pastes while meeting modern dietary needs.

Historical Note: While vegan diets weren’t defined in period, oil-based crusts were used during Lent and no-flesh days. These adaptations maintain historical intent with modern clarity.


Historical and SCA Notes

While Rabisha’s work dates to 1682—technically post-period for SCA documentation—it captures pre-Civil War culinary practices, including layering meats, seasoning with spice blends, and enclosing pies in coffins for preservation. Many cooks use Rabisha’s recipes when looking for transitional or late-period English fare that bridges into the 17th century.

Looking for a fully period alternative?


Pork pies of similar construction appear earlier, notably in A Book of Cookrye (1591), which includes a Gammon of Bacon recipe using layered pork or bacon, spices, and pastry coffins. This version is solidly within SCA period and makes an excellent substitute if documentation is a concern.

Onion Pottage with French Bread and Cheese – Robert May’s 17th-Century Comfort Food

This rich, onion-based pottage was a hit during a lunch fundraiser at a SCA Collegium event, where it helped raise funds for Arts & Sciences in celebration of the SCA's 50th anniversary. Easy to prepare, completely meatless, and packed with deep, savory flavor, it's a classic piece of "tavern fare" that works beautifully for both period events and modern autumn or winter meals. The original recipe hails from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), a cornerstone text of early modern English cuisine.


Original Recipe (Historical Source):


"Fry good store of slic't onions, then have a pipkin of boiling liquor over the fire, when the liquor bils put in the fryed onions, butter and all, with pepper and salt: being well stewed together, serve in on sops of French bread."

— Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook (1660)


Modern Interpretation (Serves 4):


Ingredients:


  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • ½ lb onions, peeled and sliced ¼" thick
  • 4 cups vegetable stock (or broth of choice)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • ⅛ tsp black pepper
  • Toasted French bread (for serving)
  • Cheese (optional for serving)

Instructions:


  1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
  2. Add sliced onions and sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden.
  3. Meanwhile, bring the vegetable stock to a boil in a separate pot.
  4. Add the sautéed onions, including the oil, to the boiling stock.
  5. Reduce heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.
  6. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  7. To serve, place toasted slices of French bread in bowls, ladle the hot onion broth over top, and add cheese if desired.

Feast/Event Notes:


This dish was one of several warm, filling options served during our Collegium fundraiser tavern lunch. As a vegetarian-friendly option, it was ideal for feeding a crowd. Easy to prepare in advance, it holds well when kept warm in a crockpot or kettle. Paired with rustic bread and cheese, it offers satisfying, stick-to-your-ribs nourishment.


Earlier Onion-Based Variations:


This recipe from The Accomplisht Cook reflects a later stage in the evolution of onion pottages; earlier forms also appear in medieval English manuscripts. For example, Harleian MS 279 (c. 1430) includes Soupe Dorroy, a richer onion soup thickened with egg yolks, and Oyle Soppys, a simpler version that uses oil and broth over toasted bread. These earlier dishes demonstrate how cooks adapted flavor, texture, and fat sources over time and across regions.


Historical Context & SCA Use:


Robert May trained in the kitchens of English nobility during the late Tudor and early Stuart periods. Although The Accomplisht Cook was published just after the SCA's traditional 1600 cut-off, it remains an essential source for "period-adjacent" fare, especially for those exploring the evolving foodways of late-period England.


May's recipes straddle medieval and modern tastes, capturing a unique culinary crossroads. This pottage exemplifies those characteristics: hearty, rustic, and comforting, yet straightforward and adaptable for contemporary kitchens.


📜 Note for SCA Context:


Many in the SCA community recognize this dish as a reliable choice for "late period" events, especially when authenticity is a priority. It showcases the shift in English cuisine from medieval traditions to more modern techniques, making it ideal for immersive experiences, educational demos, and fundraising taverns.


Context & Menu Placement

This onion pottage was served as the opening course of our Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern, a midday meal designed for easy service, rich flavor, and historical ambiance. The full menu featured a balance of meat, vegetarian options, and accessible ingredients, suited to both reenactors and newcomers.

Menu Highlights Included:


– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad
– Roasted Root Vegetables
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda

You can view the full event menu here.


Each dish was selected to reflect late-period culinary traditions while remaining practical for modern kitchen crews and feast planners.


Labels:

17th Century | Onion Dishes | Pottage | Robert May | Tavern Fare | SCA Fundraiser | Vegetarian Friendly

Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
  • 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
  • 1/4 pound ground pork
  • Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
  2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
  3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
  4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
  5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
  6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

  • Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
  • Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

  • Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
  • Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

  • Top with a poached egg for richness.
  • Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

  • Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
  • Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
  • Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

  • Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
  • Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.


To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes