Papyns – A Medieval Custard Cereal from Harleian MS. 279

Papyns with Bread

Papyns is one of those dishes that defies expectations. Often lumped in with bland “pap” given to infants, this 15th-century recipe from Harleian MS. 279 is anything but boring. The result? A velvety custard-like porridge that tastes like warm comfort on a spoon. Think cream of wheat meets crème anglaise — but make it medieval.

This was a dish for those who couldn’t chew — infants, invalids, and the elderly — but also a nourishing and soothing food when other options weren’t available. Made with flour, milk, egg yolks, and sugar, it was a soft standby, rich and smooth without lumps. And yes, it’s delicious with a slice of crusty bread dunked in.

Historical Notes

Wet nursing was preferred by noble households from ancient times through the Renaissance. In the absence of breastmilk, babies were weaned early onto pap made from animal milk, bread, or grain porridge sweetened with honey or wine. Unfortunately, without refrigeration or pasteurization, milk quality varied wildly — and foodborne illness was a real risk. Despite that, this dish endured as both comfort food and survival sustenance.

Original Text (Harleian MS. 279)

xx. Papyns.—Take fayre Mylke an Flowre, an drawe it þorw a straynoure, an set it ouer þe fyre, an let it boyle a-whyle; þan take it owt an let it kele; þan take ȝolkys of eyroun y-draw þorwe a straynour, an caste þer-to; þan take sugre a gode quantyte, and caste þer-to, an a lytil salt, an sette it on þe fyre tyl it be sum-what þikke, but let it nowt boyle fullyche, an stere it wyl, an putte it on a dysshe alle a-brode, and serue forth rennyng.

Interpreted Recipe – Serves 8

Ingredients

• 3 cups whole milk
• 1 cup cream
• 6 tablespoons flour
• 4 eggs (or 8 yolks)
• 6–8 tablespoons sugar, to taste
• 1–2 teaspoons salt, to taste

Instructions

1. Make a slurry with the flour and 1.5 cups of the milk. Shake well in a lidded jar, then strain into a saucepan. Add remaining milk and cream.
2. Heat gently until thickened, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
3. Beat the eggs. Temper with a bit of the warm mixture, then slowly add to the pan, stirring constantly. Add sugar and salt.
4. Return to low heat and stir until thickened but not boiling. Serve warm, strained again if needed for extra smoothness.

Serving Suggestions

Serve in shallow bowls with slices of fresh or toasted bread. Not ideal for large feast crowds — but excellent for dayboard, luncheons, or cold mornings at camp with instant ingredients.

💡 Substitutions & Dietary Notes

• Vegetarian: Yes
• Vegan: No, but you could experiment with oat milk and egg replacers like JUST Egg or silken tofu custard (untested)
• Gluten-Free: Use rice flour or oat flour
• Camping Option: Use powdered milk, powdered eggs, sugar, and water. Mix with a whisk and cook low and slow over flame.
• Common Allergens: Dairy, Egg, Gluten (can be adapted)

Similar Recipes

• Thomas Awkbarow's Papyns (Harley 5401) – thickened with rice flour, saffron-colored, and topped with poached eggs!
• Creme Boylede – A closely related custard-style milk dish from the same manuscript