Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro)

This dish was featured in the Arrosto Course at our 12th Night feast—a hearty Renaissance soup using “Turkish squash,” adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Secondo libro (Chapter 220).

The Singular Doctrine (La Singolare Dottrina) of Domenico Romoli offers a unique window into Renaissance feast planning. This early 16th-century treatise provides monthly banquet menus, richly detailed with courses designed for specific occasions, balancing seasonality, variety, and symbolic meaning.

The January Banquet Menu — Morning Service

 The 12th Night  menu was inspired by Romoli’s January banquet for twenty-four guests, served with three “choppers” (set meals). His detailed menu for January includes a fascinating array of dishes, highlighting seasonal ingredients, complex preparation techniques, and artistic presentation:

• Zambella Biscotta and Berlingozzo Fresco: Traditional breads served with the bread service
• Pignoccate and Ciambellette Dorate: Specialty fried dough and donuts
• Marzapani Frigiati di Oro: Golden fried marzipan sweets
• Carniscioni a Figure: Decorative savory pastries
• Morselletti di Napoli: Biscuit-like specialties from Naples
• Bericocoli di Siena: Traditional sweet dishes paired with wine

...and many more including stewed fruits, meat dishes, and elegant roast preparations.

Understanding the Singular Doctrine Recipe and Feast Structure

The Singular Doctrine as articulated by M. Domenico Romoli nicknamed Panunto presents Renaissance recipes and feasts as flexible, technique-focused guides rather than strict formulas.

• Seasonal and Monthly Organization: Menus are tailored to the ingredients available in each month, ensuring freshness and harmony with nature.
• Course and Service Sequencing: Detailed breakdowns guide the flow of dishes—from breads and sweets to roasts and fruits—designed for balanced pacing and presentation.
• Implicit Ingredient Listings: Ingredients are often embedded in the instructions rather than separately listed, reflecting the expectation of experienced cooks to understand proportions and techniques.
• Emphasis on Technique and Adaptability: Recipes emphasize process and sensory cues, encouraging cooks to adapt based on local availability and personal judgment rather than rigid measurements.

This method contrasts with modern recipe writing but reveals a rich tradition of culinary artistry where the cook’s skill and intuition were central.

Connecting Romoli’s Doctrine to Our 12th Night Feast

The 12th Night feast drew inspiration from Romoli’s doctrine, blending historical authenticity with practical adaptations:

• Incorporating Scappi’s Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche (Turkish squash soup) as a seasonal, hearty dish
• Featuring breads and sweets like Pani di Latte e zucchero & brazzatelle to honor traditional bread services
• Using detailed recipes from historic sources linked to Romoli’s dishes (pignoccate, marzipan sweets, and more)

This layered approach enriches both our culinary exploration and educational storytelling.

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro, Cap. CCXX)

Original Historic Recipe (Italian)

Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche, cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi

Piglisi la zucca Turchesca nella sua stagione, la qual comincia dal mese di Ottobre & dura per tutto Aprile, & nette che sara della scorza & degl'interiori taglisi in pezzi, & facciasi perlessare, & perlessata che sarattasi con li coltelli, & facciasi cuocere in buon brodo di carne, & marinisi con cascio grattato, & uove sbattute, & si potrࠡncho accommodare con le cipolle nel modo che si accommoda la nostrale sudetta.

Avvertendo che se la zucca sara soda, sara molto migliore, & per conservarla ha da stare in loco asciutto, & arioso, & non ha da esserre busciata in loco alcuno, percioche l'aria la sarebbe putrefare, in questo modo le si potrare scorze secche delle zucche Savonese dope saranno perlessate in acqua caldo & state in ammollo in acqua fredda.

Modern English Translation

To make various dishes with Turkish squash, Chapter 220, 2nd book, Scappi:

Take the Turkish squash in its season, which begins in October and lasts through April. Clean it of its skin and innards. Cut it into pieces and parboil it. Once parboiled, chop it finely with a knife and cook it in good meat broth. Thicken and enrich it with grated cheese and beaten eggs. One can also prepare it with onions in the same manner as our native squash as described above.

Be aware that if the squash is firm, it will be much better. To store them, keep in a dry and airy place without any holes because air will cause them to rot. In this way, one can make dried skins of Savonese squash after parboiling in hot water and soaking in cold water.

Historical Context and Zucchini Substitution

The “zucca Turchesca” referred to by Scappi was likely a firm winter squash, such as the “zucca mantovana,” prized for its texture and storability. For our modern adaptation, we used zucchini, a summer squash, which offers a lighter texture and fresher flavor.

While zucchini cooks faster and has more moisture than winter squash, it still captures the essence of the historic dish and allows us to honor Renaissance cooking with available produce.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Modern Adaptation: Roasted Zucchini Parmesan Soup

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Yield: Serves 4–6

Ingredients

• 3 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
• 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• Cracked black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only (about 1–2 tablespoons)
• 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
• 4 cups good quality meat broth (beef or veal preferred)
• 2 beaten eggs (optional, for enrichment)
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional, for onion variation)

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
2. Arrange zucchini wedges on a baking sheet or shallow dish. Season evenly with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Dot with butter and sprinkle rosemary leaves.
3. Roast uncovered for 20–30 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized, checking after 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot.
5. Remove zucchini from oven. Add to broth, chopping roughly or pureeing for a smoother texture.
6. If using, stir in beaten eggs slowly while gently stirring to prevent curdling. Add onions if desired and simmer gently until softened.
7. Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Notes and Tips

• Zucchini’s softer texture means a shorter roasting time than winter squash.
• Egg enrichment echoes Scappi’s original instructions, adding richness.
• For a heartier version, consider adding root vegetables or using winter squash.
• Use a good-quality meat broth for depth, or substitute vegetable broth for a lighter soup.

Historical Background: Squash in Renaissance Italy

The “zucca Turchesca” (Turkish squash) referenced by Scappi likely denotes a type of winter squash introduced to Europe following the Columbian exchange, though some squash species may have arrived earlier via Mediterranean trade routes.

Squash Varieties of the Period:

• Early Italian cookbooks mention firm-fleshed winter squashes, similar in texture to what we now call “savoy” or “marrow” squash, prized for their storage qualities.
• The text’s emphasis on firm texture and dry, airy storage conditions reflects an understanding of preserving winter squash for extended use through the cold months.
• Italian regional varieties such as the “zucca mantovana” (Mantua squash), known for its thick flesh and mild flavor, or other local heirlooms may have been used.
• The term “Turkish” possibly refers to the exotic origin or the shape/color resembling melons or gourds traded from the Ottoman regions.

Scappi’s recommendation to parboil, chop finely, and cook in rich meat broth with grated cheese and beaten eggs reflects Renaissance tastes for combining local ingredients with culinary sophistication.

Bringing Renaissance Flavors to Your Table

Exploring historical recipes like Scappi’s Turkish squash soup offers a delicious way to connect with the culinary traditions of the Renaissance. Whether you choose to follow the original instructions or adapt with modern ingredients, you’re participating in a rich tapestry of food history.

We invite you to try this recipe, experiment with the flavors, and share your experiences. Cooking history is as much about creativity as it is about preservation.

For more historical recipes and feast inspiration, check out these related posts:

•  To Prepare a Filled Twist 
•  Vaccina Salpresa Alessata, Servito Con Petrosemoto - Cold Pressed and Salted Beef
• Mostaccioli a la Romana - Roman Morsels 

If you enjoyed this post, please consider supporting our work on Ko-fi, where we share exclusive recipes and guides to keep history alive on your table.

Happy cooking and buon appetito!

References

• Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
• Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Note: This recipe was originally published in 2015. This updated version includes clearer instructions, a modern interpretation scaled for groups, and a vegetarian option to better suit today’s kitchens.
For the original historical context and early draft, see Lange Wortes de Pesoun (2015).

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Lange Wortes de Pesoun — a simple medieval peas and greens pottage inspired by Harleian MS 279, simmered to comforting perfection.

Looking for a seasonal medieval recipe with fresh garden greens and sweet peas? This 15th-century dish combines simple ingredients—peas, onions, and wortes (leafy greens)—into a richly comforting pottage. Featured in Harleian MS 279, it’s proof that medieval cooks knew how to make the most of the spring harvest.

History of the Dish

The Harleian manuscripts, compiled around 1430, include several recipes for vegetable-based pottages. The first of the green recipes is Lange Wortys de Chare, a dish of long-cooked greens. This recipe, Lange Wortes de Pesoun, adds green peas and onions, simmered until tender and fragrant. Despite the less-than-inviting olive-colored broth, this dish was a hit with even my non-SCA teenage tasters.

Did You Know?
Peas are one of the oldest cultivated crops. The Roman cookbook Apicius includes nine recipes for dried peas. By 800 CE, they were grown across Charlemagne’s lands, and by the 1200s, fresh peas were sold in European cities by street vendors.

Legumes, Pulses, and Medieval Abundance

Legumes (fresh in the pod) and pulses (dried) are members of the same family—plants whose fruit grows in pods. This group includes peas, lentils, beans, and lupins. The Latin word "legere" (to gather) gives us "legume." By the 16th century, peas were cultivated in many varieties: short, tall, smooth, wrinkled, yellow, and green.

In this recipe, the term “green peas” likely refers to fresh, shelled peas, suggesting a springtime preparation. But don’t let that stop you from using frozen or dried peas in other seasons—just adjust the cooking time to soften them fully.

A Philosophy of "Enough"

We don't need to measure in cups, tablespoons, or ounces when interpreting medieval recipes. They encourage us to be "enough."

Enough means ample to satisfy, adequate to nourish. Out with "simplify"—in with "enough." A motto worth cooking by.

.ij. Lange Wortes de pesoun.—Take grene pesyn, an washe hem clene an caste hem on a potte, an boyle hem tyl þey breste, an þanne take hem vppe of þe potte, an put hem with brothe yn a-noþer potte, and lete hem kele; þan draw hem þorw a straynowre in-to a fayre potte, an þan take oynonys, and screde hem in to or þre, an take hole wortys and boyle hem in fayre water: and take hem vppe, an ley hem on a fayre bord, an cytte on .iij. or iiij., an ley hem to þe oynonys in þe potte, to þe drawyd pesyn; an let hem boyle tyl þey ben tendyr; an þanne tak fayre oyle and frye hem, or ellys sum fresche broþe of sum maner fresche fysshe, an caste þer-to, an Safron, an salt a quantyte, and serue it forth.

Translation

Take green peas and wash them clean, then boil them until they burst. Remove them, and place with broth in another pot to cool. Then strain them through a strainer into a clean pot. Add shredded onions and pre-boiled greens (such as kale or cabbage) cut into thirds. Combine all in the pot with the strained peas and cook until tender. Finish with oil or fish broth, saffron, and salt. Serve warm.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

• 8 cups frozen peas
• 8 handfuls mixed greens (kale, chard, collards, spinach), chopped
• 1 onion, shredded
• 8 cups homemade beef stock (or fish broth)
• 1 teaspoon saffron (or to taste)
• Salt to taste

Heat peas until soft (about 5-7 minutes), then blend or mash them to a pulp and strain out any large bits.
Boil the greens separately until tender, then press dry.
In a large pot, simmer the broth with saffron and onions until onions soften.
Add the greens to the pot.
Stir in the pea purée and cook for about 5 minutes more.
Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Tip: For a lighter, brothier dish, try using 5–6 cups of peas and increase the broth to 8–10 cups. Adjust cooking times as needed for a soup-like consistency.
Vegetarian option: Simply substitute the beef or fish broth with a rich vegetable broth to keep the dish meat-free and flavorful.

Budget-Friendly & Feast-Ready

This recipe is one I would happily serve at a luncheon or as a side at a feast. It’s affordable, nourishing, and adapts well to both spring freshness and winter pantry staples.

More Seasonal Recipes?
If you’re looking for other dishes perfect for spring feasts or garden fare, try:

• Lange Wortys de Chare (Long Greens)
• Joutes (Braised Greens)
• Caboges (Braised Cabbage)

Tags:
Pottage, Vegetables, Grain, Medieval, SCA Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Printable

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda - Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style - Scappi

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Herb-Filled Pasta in the Lombard Style — Scappi’s Comforting Winter Classic

This delicate and fragrant dish of tortellini stuffed with sautéed greens, herbs, cheese, and sweet spices originates from Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570), the monumental cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi. Best known as the personal chef to Pope Pius V, Scappi was a master of both elaborate banquets and refined simplicity — and this recipe, nestled in Chapter 179 of his Secondo Libro, showcases the Lombard love of herbs, butter, and subtly sweet notes.

Scappi and the Rise of Pasta in the Renaissance Kitchen

Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570) offers one of the most complete windows into the elite cuisine of late Renaissance Italy — and pasta plays a surprisingly prominent role. While modern perceptions associate early Italian cuisine with bread and stews, Scappi details dozens of pasta forms: tortelletti, tagliatelle, lasagne, gnocchi, and more. He provides both fast-day (Lenten) and meat-day variations, often using rich fillings, egg-based doughs, and flavored broths.

Beyond Pasta: Scappi’s Influence on Italian Cuisine

While Scappi is celebrated for cataloging pasta, his legacy goes well beyond noodles. He formalized kitchen hierarchy, seasonal menu planning, and equipment standards that echoed into the 18th century and beyond. His work documents early uses of parchment paper for baking, cooking with a bain-marie, and even proto-refrigeration techniques using snow. He preserved the culinary knowledge of late medieval traditions while also introducing innovations that bridged the gap to modernity. Scappi’s recipes emphasized not only taste but also visual elegance, hygiene, and timing — principles that continue to shape Italian fine dining today.

His chapter on pasta (including Cap. 177–179) reflects the growing popularity of filled pasta in elite households — a sign of culinary sophistication. Doughs were often perfumed with rose water or sugar, and pasta was sometimes served in sweetened broths or dusted with sugar and cinnamon. These dishes bridged the gap between savory and sweet, medicine and indulgence, humble vegetables, and luxurious presentation.

In the Spirit of Romoli: Doctrine and Daily Table

Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (“The Singular Doctrine”) outlines not only how to cook but also how to organize and serve elaborate banquets across the seasons. His January banquet — which inspired this feast — features carefully curated combinations of hot and cold, dry and moist, light and heavy, always with an eye toward harmony and digestion. Pasta dishes like tortelletti fit perfectly into this philosophy: gentle on the stomach, warming in the winter months, and suitable for both Lenten and meatless preparations, depending on the broth and sauce.

Romoli, like Scappi, reflects the culinary doctrine of the sixteenth-century Italian elite, where food was viewed as an art, a science, and a means to health, all served in silver.

The Lombard Legacy: Herbs, Pasta, and Humoral Balance

Lombardy, located in northern Italy, was renowned throughout the Renaissance for its refined cuisine and affinity for dairy, herbs, and egg-rich dishes. Dishes like tortelletti d’herba reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and the influence of monastic gardens and courtly kitchens. These small-filled portions of pasta, cousins to ravioli and agnolotti, were considered both elegant and nourishing — ideal for feast days or Lenten fare when meat might be restricted, but the richness was not.

The inclusion of sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with sugar and currants, reveals a broader Renaissance fascination with balancing flavors and creating contrasts on the palate — often underpinned by humoral theory. Warm spices helped balance the “cold” qualities of greens, while cheese and egg yolks added “moist” richness. In this way, tortelletti d’herba were more than delicious — they were medicinally appropriate.

Did You Know?
Common greens used in Renaissance kitchens included bietole (Swiss chard or beet tops), spinaci (spinach), and cavolo nero. Herbs like parsley, mint, marjoram, and savory were prized not just for flavor but for their role in digestive and humoral health.

What Herbs and Greens Were Used in Renaissance Tortelletti?

The phrase herba alla Lombarda in Scappi's recipe refers to a familiar blend of leafy greens and aromatic herbs popular in northern Italy during the Renaissance. Common greens included bietole (chard or beet greens), spinaci (spinach), and sometimes cavolo nero (black cabbage). These were often combined with soft herbs like parsley, marjoram, mint, and savory — herbs prized for their digestive and warming properties, aligning with humoral dietary practices of the time. Regional cooks might adjust the balance of herbs depending on season and occasion: more mint and marjoram in summer, more parsley and chard in winter.

We featured this dish as part of the Arrosto course at our 12th Night 2024 feast, where it was served alongside roast beef, sweet mustard sauce, Turkish squash, and jewel-like Renaissance jelly bites. Helewyse de Birkestad adapted the recipe used in her event, Feste di San Martino, and offers a beautifully balanced winter pasta that pairs greens with Parmesan, currants, and spices.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Historical Recipe: Per far minestra di tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Scappi, Opera (1570), Cap. CLXXIX, Secondo Libro

Take beet (chard) and spinach, chop very finely, wash in several waters, and wring dry. Fry them gently in fresh butter, and add a handful of odiferous herbs. Boil briefly, then drain and combine the mixture in a glazed earthen or tinned copper pot. Add grated Parmesan and soft cheese, with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, currants, and enough raw egg to bind. If too soft, add breadcrumbs; if too firm, more butter. Make pasta as described in Chapter 177, shape small or large tortelletti, boil in meat broth, and serve with cheese, sugar, and cinnamon on top.

Modern Redaction (Adapted by Helewyse de Birkestad)

Pasta Dough

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• Pinch of salt
• 1 tbsp butter, melted
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp rosewater
• ~1¼ cups warm water (as needed)

Filling

• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 1 bunch spinach
• Small handful each: parsley, mint, marjoram
• 15 oz ricotta
• 6 oz Parmesan (grated)
• 1–2 eggs
• 1 oz currants
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron to taste

Instructions

1. Make the Dough: Combine flour, salt, sugar, melted butter, and rosewater. Mix with warm water to form a smooth dough. Knead well, then rest covered for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the Filling: Wash and chop the greens and herbs. Sauté in butter until wilted. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor with cheeses, eggs, spices, and currants until a firm but scoopable filling forms.
3. Shape the Tortelletti: Roll pasta thin (second-to-last setting on a hand-cranked machine). Cut into squares or circles. Place small scoops of filling, fold and seal. Shape into tortelletti.
4. Cook: Boil in salted water (or broth) until they float — about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.
5. To Serve: Top with a light dusting of grated cheese, cinnamon, and sugar for an authentic Renaissance finish.

Regional Variations Across Italy

Though Scappi’s version is firmly rooted in Lombardy, filled herb pastas appear across Italy with regional twists. In Emilia‑Romagna, tortelli di erbette are filled with greens and ricotta, often served with sage‑butter. Tuscany offers tortelli maremmani, sometimes incorporating wild greens and nutmeg. Liguria features pansoti made with preboggion (a traditional wild herb mix) and walnut sauce. Each variant celebrates local herbs and fillings while preserving the form’s essential comfort and seasonality.

Notes from the Feast Table

At 12th Night 2024, these tortelletti were part of the Arrosto course with:

• Spit-roasted beef (brisket)
• Turkish squash dishes
• Sweet mustard sauce
• Gelo in bocconcini di più colori (jelly in small bites)

Want More from This Feast?

This recipe is just one part of our 12th Night 2024 Renaissance Feast, inspired by Scappi, Romoli, and the lavish January banquets of Renaissance Italy.

To see the full event menu and explore additional recipes as they’re released, visit the official feast page:

Flaming Gryphon 12th Night 2024 Feast Menu.

Looking for printable cards or a bundled feast pack? Support the project on Ko-fi and stay tuned for downloads!

Onion Pottage with French Bread and Cheese – Robert May’s 17th-Century Comfort Food

This rich, onion-based pottage was a hit during a lunch fundraiser at a SCA Collegium event, where it helped raise funds for Arts & Sciences in celebration of the SCA's 50th anniversary. Easy to prepare, completely meatless, and packed with deep, savory flavor, it's a classic piece of "tavern fare" that works beautifully for both period events and modern autumn or winter meals. The original recipe hails from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), a cornerstone text of early modern English cuisine.

Original Recipe (Historical Source):

"Fry good store of slic't onions, then have a pipkin of boiling liquor over the fire, when the liquor bils put in the fryed onions, butter and all, with pepper and salt: being well stewed together, serve in on sops of French bread."

— Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook (1660)

Modern Interpretation (Serves 4):

Ingredients:

• 3 tbsp olive oil
• ½ lb onions, peeled and sliced ¼" thick
• 4 cups vegetable stock (or broth of choice)
• 1 tsp salt
• ⅛ tsp black pepper
• Toasted French bread (for serving)
• Cheese (optional for serving)

Instructions:

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
2. Add sliced onions and sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden.
3. Meanwhile, bring the vegetable stock to a boil in a separate pot.
4. Add the sautéed onions, including the oil, to the boiling stock.
5. Reduce heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.
6. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. To serve, place toasted slices of French bread in bowls, ladle the hot onion broth over top, and add cheese if desired.

Feast/Event Notes:

This dish was one of several warm, filling options served during our Collegium fundraiser tavern lunch. As a vegetarian-friendly option, it was ideal for feeding a crowd. Easy to prepare in advance, it holds well when kept warm in a crockpot or kettle. Paired with rustic bread and cheese, it offers satisfying, stick-to-your-ribs nourishment.

Earlier Onion-Based Variations:

This recipe from The Accomplisht Cook reflects a later stage in the evolution of onion pottages; earlier forms also appear in medieval English manuscripts. For example, Harleian MS 279 (c. 1430) includes Soupe Dorroy, a richer onion soup thickened with egg yolks, and Oyle Soppys, a simpler version that uses oil and broth over toasted bread. These earlier dishes demonstrate how cooks adapted flavor, texture, and fat sources over time and across regions.

Historical Context & SCA Use:

Robert May trained in the kitchens of English nobility during the late Tudor and early Stuart periods. Although The Accomplisht Cook was published just after the SCA's traditional 1600 cut-off, it remains an essential source for "period-adjacent" fare, especially for those exploring the evolving foodways of late-period England.

May's recipes straddle medieval and modern tastes, capturing a unique culinary crossroads. This pottage exemplifies those characteristics: hearty, rustic, and comforting, yet straightforward and adaptable for contemporary kitchens.

📜 Note for SCA Context:

Many in the SCA community recognize this dish as a reliable choice for "late period" events, especially when authenticity is a priority. It showcases the shift in English cuisine from medieval traditions to more modern techniques, making it ideal for immersive experiences, educational demos, and fundraising taverns.

Context & Menu Placement

This onion pottage was served as the opening course of our Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern, a midday meal designed for easy service, rich flavor, and historical ambiance. The full menu featured a balance of meat, vegetarian options, and accessible ingredients, suited to both reenactors and newcomers.

Menu Highlights Included:

– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad
– Roasted Root Vegetables
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda

You can view the full event menu here.

Each dish was selected to reflect late-period culinary traditions while remaining practical for modern kitchen crews and feast planners.

Labels:

17th Century | Onion Dishes | Pottage | Robert May | Tavern Fare | SCA Fundraiser | Vegetarian Friendly

Medieval Gruel Compared: Drawyn Grwel vs Grewel Eforced

The Evolution of Medieval Gruel: Comparing Grewel Eforced and Drawyn Grwel Across Manuscripts

Modern interpretation of medieval gruel served in rustic wooden bowl, featuring oatmeal, herbs, and tender meat

Introduction

While “gruel” might still evoke images of bleak Victorian workhouses or colorless hospital trays, the historical reality is far richer—and more flavorful. Across late medieval England, gruel wasn’t just a thin porridge for the poor. It evolved into a flexible culinary form enriched with meat, herbs, marrow, and even blood. In this article, we explore how various versions of grewel eforced and drawyn grwel appear across five major manuscripts spanning over a century (1390–1500).

This piece builds on our earlier posts detailing individual recipes from Grewel a-forsydde and Drawyn Grwel. Here, we compare them head-to-head: their ingredients, methods, intended audiences, and what they tell us about medieval food culture. Whether you're a culinary historian, a reenactor, or simply oat-curious, you'll come away with a deeper appreciation for this humble but endlessly adaptable dish.

What is Medieval Gruel?

At its simplest, medieval gruel is a liquid-based dish made from grain—typically oatmeal—boiled with water or broth. While it shares ancestry with porridge, gruel is thinner, more broth-like, and often served hot in bowls or trenchers. In most contexts, it was peasant food: cheap, hearty, and easily scalable to feed many mouths.

But medieval cookery manuscripts also preserve more elaborate versions: gruel that’s “eforced” (enriched) or “drawyn” (strained and tempered). These versions might include pork, beef, marrow bones, saffron, herbs, and careful preparation steps like grinding, sieving, and multiple boils. What emerges is a spectrum—from rustic sustenance to refined fare fit for noble households or healing tables.

Key Manuscripts and Timeframes

Let’s begin by situating the recipes within their historical sources. The five manuscripts below each contain a variant of fortified or tempered gruel, reflecting subtle changes in ingredients and technique over time:

• Fourme of Curye (Rylands MS 7, c. 1390): A courtly collection associated with the kitchens of Richard II, featuring a recipe for “grewel eforced” with pork and saffron.
• Liber Cure Cocorum (Sloane MS 1986, c. 1430): A northern English manuscript offering practical, poetic instructions for “gruel of force” with oat groats and careful straining.
• A Noble Boke off Cookry (c. 1468): Richer in tone, this version emphasizes marrow bones, strained broths, and meat purity, showing growing concern for elegance and digestion.
• Gentyllmanly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047, c. 1500): A late manuscript that elaborates on earlier trends with greater refinement, using both beef marrow and tender pork.
• Harleian MS. 279 – Drawyn Grwel (c. 1430): Unique for its use of beef and blood, this recipe is herb-forward (parsley and sage) and focused on texture via straining.

Together, these manuscripts span over 100 years and showcase the growing complexity of what began as peasant soup. In the sections that follow, we’ll compare them directly—ingredient by ingredient, technique by technique.

Ingredient Comparison Table

To understand how these recipes differ, it helps to view their ingredients side by side. Below is a simplified comparison of key components used in each manuscript’s version of enriched gruel.

Manuscript	Main Protein	Grain Type	Herbs & Spices	Color Additive	Strained?
Fourme of Curye (1390)	Pork	Oatmeal	None specified	Saffron	Yes
Liber Cure Cocorum (1430)	Pork	Oaten grotes (groats)	None specified	Saffron	Yes
A Noble Boke off Cookry (1468)	Pork + Marrow Bones	Oatmeal	None specified	None noted	Yes
Gentyllmanly Cokere (c. 1500)	Fresh Beef + Pork + Marrow	Oatmeal	None specified	Saffron	Yes
Harleian MS. 279 – Drawyn Grwel (1430)	Lean Beef + Blood	Oatmeal	Parsley, Sage	Blood (for browning)	Yes

Though all recipes rely on oatmeal as a base, we begin to see distinctions: pork in the earlier texts, marrow-rich preparations in later ones, and uniquely, beef and blood in Drawyn Grwel.

Technique Evolution Over Time

The progression from rustic gruel to refined dish is not just in ingredients—it’s visible in the techniques. Across the manuscripts, several key practices become more defined:

• Grinding: Meat is chopped and pounded in a mortar for smoother texture, especially emphasized in Fourme of Curye and the Noble Boke.
• Straining: Early recipes mention straining the oats and broth, likely through cloth or fine mesh. Later versions maintain this step for visual elegance and palatability.
• Simmering over time: Most recipes suggest long cooking times for the oats to fully soften and the broth to thicken naturally, creating a hearty but refined texture.
• Layered cooking: Initial boiling of meat to remove impurities, followed by broth use and second boiling, reflects growing culinary hygiene and sophistication.

These refinements reveal a shift in culinary values: from basic nourishment to aesthetics, digestion, and status.

Meat Matters: Pork vs. Beef vs. Marrow Bones

The choice of meat speaks volumes about both the period and the intended audience of each recipe. Pork was the most common in earlier versions—not surprising, given its affordability, versatility, and symbolic association with sustenance in medieval Europe.

By the 15th century, however, we begin to see a shift. Drawyn Grwel introduces lean beef as its protein base, likely reflecting both regional availability and growing preference for “cleaner” meat in refined dishes. The use of blood not only darkens the gruel but adds iron-rich depth—something prized in healing foods.

Later manuscripts, such as the Noble Boke and Gentyll manly Cokere, incorporate marrow bones. This addition denotes luxury, as marrow was considered both a delicacy and a rich, energy-dense food. These versions were likely intended for noble tables or ceremonial meals, rather than everyday fare.

Herbal and Spice Profiles

In contrast to the more minimalist early recipes, later medieval gruel preparations begin to incorporate aromatic herbs and luxury spices. These additions served dual purposes: enhancing flavor and communicating refinement or wealth.

• Parsley & Sage: Uniquely featured in Drawyn Grwel, these herbs reflect not only culinary flavoring but also healthful symbolism. Sage, in particular, was prized for digestive and antiseptic properties.
• Saffron: Used in Fourme of Curye, Liber Cure Cocorum, and Gentyllmanly Cokere, saffron was a luxury item. Its bright color and subtle aroma elevated gruel from humble food to a dish suitable for high-status tables.
• Salt & Pepper: Almost universally present, but rarely mentioned explicitly—assumed to be added to taste or in the straining stage.

While earlier recipes relied purely on the natural richness of meat and oats, the introduction of herbs and spices in later versions reflects the increasing overlap between medicine, taste, and social distinction in food.

Use of Blood and Color Manipulation

Perhaps the most striking feature in Drawyn Grwel is its use of blood—not just as an ingredient, but as a color and flavor enhancer. The instructions call for collecting the blood from boiled beef, then reintegrating it into the pot either before or after straining, to darken the gruel and enrich its depth.

In medieval cuisine, blood was not taboo—it was commonplace, particularly in sausages, black puddings, and stews. Beyond flavor, blood added color, thickness, and nutrients such as iron and protein, making it a functional choice for both presentation and nourishment.

Modern Substitutes for Blood:

If cooking for contemporary audiences, or if actual blood is unavailable or unappealing, consider these kitchen-friendly alternatives:

• Beef or pork drippings: Adds meaty richness and depth without the texture of blood.
• Dark soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce: Offers umami and color enhancement in small amounts.
• Black pudding crumbles: If available, crumble small amounts into the broth as a nod to traditional methods.
• Beef bone marrow or liver puree: Provides similar richness and body, with a smoother consistency.

Whether staying faithful to history or modernizing for comfort, the goal is the same: to deepen color and richness without overpowering the grain and herb base.

Textural Intent: Thin Broths vs. Fortified Soups

The spectrum of medieval gruels stretches from thin, drinkable broths to spoon-thick stews. Understanding where each version falls on this continuum offers insight into its purpose:

• “Rennyng” or Running Gruel: Often prescribed for the ill or elderly. These thinner preparations were easy to digest and often strained more thoroughly. Drawyn Grwel leans toward this category, despite its hearty ingredients, due to its emphasis on straining.
• “Eforced” or Enriched Gruel: These versions, like those from Fourme of Curye or Gentyllmanly Cokere, were denser and served as nourishing meals. They were intended to sustain laborers, feed households, or even anchor feasts.

Texture, in medieval cuisine, was as much about class and occasion as it was about preference. A smooth, clear gruel might be seen as elegant and appropriate for a noble sickbed, while a chunkier version signified abundance and rustic strength.

Straining, Drawing, and Presentation

The medieval instruction to “draw” gruel through a strainer was more than a culinary quirk—it was a meaningful technique tied to status, health, and texture. The act of straining removed bone fragments, tough oat hulls, gristle, and impurities, resulting in a smoother and more refined presentation.

In Drawyn Grwel, straining is explicitly mentioned after the beef, oatmeal, and herbs have been cooked. This step would have rendered a velvety, herbal broth with uniform consistency—particularly valuable when serving to nobles or the infirm.

In contrast, earlier eforced recipes—like those in Fourme of Curye or Liber Cure Cocorum—also include straining, but often retain more texture due to groats or unrefined meat. Later manuscripts, such as Gentyllmanly Cokere, reinforce this refinement trend with added marrow and extended simmering.

Presentation Tactics in Period:

• Use of colored additives (saffron, blood) for visual impact
• Garnishing with fresh herbs for brightness
• Serving in ceramic or wooden trenchers to match class or feast setting

The more refined the straining and finish, the more “gentle” the dish was considered—reinforcing its suitability for the elite, the convalescent, or religious fasting tables.

Modern Interpretations and Adaptations

Recreating these dishes today offers both a culinary time capsule and an opportunity to tailor the recipes to modern palates and dietary needs. Whether you're feeding reenactors or just experimenting in your home kitchen, each variation offers a different entry point.

• Drawyn Grwel: Ideal for those who enjoy savory herbal broths. It’s deeply umami-rich, with a texture like congee or smooth beef barley soup. The sage and parsley make it perfect for autumn or cold-season cooking.
• Grewel Eforced (Fourme of Curye / Noble Boke): More robust and filling, this version suits hearty appetites. The use of pork and marrow makes it feel like a medieval version of risotto or savory oatmeal stew.
• Vegetarian Adaptation: Replace meat with mushrooms, seitan, or legumes. Vegetable stock enriched with smoked paprika or miso paste gives depth. Use steel-cut oats for authenticity.

Don’t forget modern kitchen tools—stick blenders, cheesecloth, or food mills can help replicate medieval textures without the elbow grease.

Cultural Significance of Enriched Gruels

Fortified gruels in medieval times carried enormous cultural weight. They were more than food—they were medicine, community fare, and sometimes religious observance. A spoonful of oat-and-meat porridge could signify:

• Healing and Recovery: Smooth, strained gruels were often prescribed for the sick, elderly, or postnatal mothers due to their digestibility and warmth.
• Communal Nourishment: Gruels could be made in large quantities for feast days, fasting periods, or during times of scarcity.
• Hospitality and Ceremony: Enriched versions, especially those with saffron or marrow, were served to guests of rank or in religious institutions offering alms.

Thus, enriched gruel bridged social classes—from the laborer’s daily sustenance to the monk’s fast-day meal and the noblewoman’s recovery broth. Its versatility made it indispensable, and its variations offer a unique window into the values and limitations of medieval kitchens.

Connecting Historical Recipes to Contemporary Cuisine

Though centuries old, these medieval gruel recipes share surprising similarities with modern comfort foods around the world. The use of grains, savory broth, and slow cooking makes them natural ancestors to contemporary dishes:

• Congee (China): A rice-based porridge simmered with meat or vegetables, often garnished with herbs or preserved eggs.
• Risotto (Italy): While more refined and rice-based, the method of slow stirring and broth absorption mirrors enriched oat gruel preparation.
• Oatmeal Soup (Scotland): Known as brose or porage, this shares lineage with gruel and often includes meat or stock.
• Grits (American South): Ground cornmeal cooked to a creamy consistency, sometimes enriched with stock, butter, or cheese—illustrating the same principle of grain + fat + flavor.

These modern parallels show how gruel-style dishes persist as economical, nourishing meals suited for both everyday cooking and high-end reinvention. Medieval gruel may have laid the foundation for much of what we still enjoy today.

Final Thoughts: What Medieval Gruel Teaches Us

By tracing the evolution of gruel across these key manuscripts, we gain insight not only into historical cooking methods, but also into changing social, economic, and medicinal landscapes. What began as a humble bowl of oats and water evolved into sophisticated, enriched preparations that straddled class and occasion.

Whether drawn or eforced, pork- or beef-based, strained or chunky, medieval gruel was about nourishment, care, and adaptation. And that is perhaps its greatest legacy: a dish built not just for survival, but for thriving—one spoon at a time.

FAQs

Which medieval gruel recipe is closest to congee?

Drawyn Grwel, with its thin, strained texture and herbal notes, is the most comparable to traditional Asian congee. It’s easy to digest and offers subtle layers of flavor.

What’s the most luxurious version of gruel from the manuscripts?

The version from A Noble Boke off Cookry, featuring pork, marrow bones, and refined straining, likely served noble or ceremonial purposes and represents the most elevated example.

Are any of these recipes vegetarian-friendly?

While none of the original texts are vegetarian, they can be adapted using mushroom stock, miso, or root vegetables to replicate umami and texture. Use steel-cut oats for best results.

What modern dish is most similar to Grewel Eforced?

Grewel Eforced resembles a savory oatmeal risotto or oat-based barley stew. It’s thick, filling, and well-suited to one-pot cooking, particularly in colder months.

Why was straining so important in medieval cooking?

Straining removed bone shards, gristle, and oat hulls, improving both safety and texture. It was also associated with refinement, digestion, and presentation—especially for noble or medicinal meals.

Kitchen Adventures – Cxxij. A rede morreye (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

In the realm of medieval cookery, there's a curious coincidence found within the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books: Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450), featuring extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin. It's the duplication of a recipe, each time bearing a different name but offering similar instructions on preparing the dish. Fortunately, I find myself in possession of mulberries, which seem to flourish abundantly in my locale, and are often treated as anuisances in my area.

Murrey, is similar to Rapeye, seems to denote a type of sauce, characterized by its red or reddish hue and its thick consistency. For instance, the recipe from the Forme of Curye, circa 1390, presents an early rendition of this recipe: 

MORREE [1]. XXXVIII.

Take Almandes blaunched, waisshe hem. grynde hem. and temper hem up with rede wyne, and alye hem with flour of Rys. do þerto Pynes yfryed. and colour it with saundres. do þerto powdour fort and powdour douce

and salt, messe it forth and flour it [2] with aneys confyt whyte.

[1] Morree. Ms. Ed. 37. murrey. Ibid. II. 26. morrey; probably from the mulberries used therein. [2] flour it. Flourish it.

Similarly, a recipe from MS Royal 12 (1340) offers diverse ingredients to accomplish the sauce:

32. Moree. rice flour or amidon, whichever can be found; that the color of sandalwood will be had, grind well in a mortar; and then it must be tempered in almond milk and well strained. And then put powdered cinnamon and of galingale. If it is a fish day, put in pears or chestnuts or salmon, or luce or perch; if a meat day, put in veal or goat, if you would have a good and royal meat.

The Online Etymological Dictionary gives the following information on the derivation of the word:

c. 1300, "tree of the genus Morus;" mid-14c. in reference to a berry from the tree; an alteration of morberie (13c.) from or cognate with Middle High German mul-beri (alteration by dissimilation of Old High German mur-beri, Modern German Maulbeere); both from Latin morum "mulberry, blackberry" + Old English berie, Old High German beri "berry." As mentioned earlier, I am lucky to have a mulberry tree growing in my yard. Each year I wait for the fruit to ripen so that I can make mulberry jam, or eat it on shortcakes either by itself or mixed with other berries.

Both of these recipes refer to a dish that is colored with mullberries. As has been discussed previously, color played a major roles in this time period. The color "red" held major significance; life force, love, lust and anger being only a few.  It also held religious significance, being the color of Christ's blood and the fires of Hell. I wonder what the significance held for this dish, if any?

Original Recipe

.Cxxij. A rede Morreye.—Take Molberys, and wrynge a gode hepe of hem þorw a cloþe; nym Vele, hew it & grynd it smal, & caste þer-to; nym gode Spycery an [supplied by ed.] Sugre, & caste þer- [leaf 22 bk.] to; take Wastilbrede & grate it, & ȝolkys of Eyroun, & lye it vppe þer-with, & caste gode pouder of Spycery þer-an a-bouen; & þan serue it forth.

Interpreted Recipe

122. A Red Morreye - Take mulberries, and wring a good heap of them through a cloth; take veal, cut it and grind it small, and cast thereto; take good spices and sugar, and caste thereto; take Wastel Bread (bread made from flour) and grate it, and yolks of eggs, and lay it up there-with and caste good powder of spices there-on, above; and then serve it forth.

Original Recipe

.Cxviij. Murreye.—Take Molberys, & wryng hem þorwe a cloþe; nym Vele, hew it, sethe it, grynd it smal, & caste þer-to; nym gode Spycery, Sugre, & caste þer-to; take Wastylbrede y-gratyd, [leaf 22.] and ȝolkys of Eyroun, & lye it vppe þer-with, & caste gode pouder a-boue y-now, & þan serue forth.

Interpreted Recipe

218. Murreye - Take mulberries, and wring them through a cloth, take veal, cut it, cook it, grind it smal and cast there-to; take good spicery, sugar and caste there-to; take wastel bread grated, and yolks of eggs and lay it up there-with, and cast good powder above enough now and then serve forth.


Ingredients 
To Serve 8

2 pounds cooked veal, pork or chicken, either sliced, or cut into bite sized pieces

2 cups mulberries

1 tsp. mixed spices (powder forte)

~ 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup breadcrumbs

1 egg yolk
*Opt*  1 tsp. lemon juice, vinegar, or wine

Instructions

1. We are instructed to "take mulberries and wring them through a cloth", to create mulberry juice.  To do this, add mulberries, spices, sugar, lemon juice (wine, vinegar) , and water (if needed) to a blender, and blend until smooth.

2. Strain your juice using a cloth lined sieve, to remove solids,  into a pan. 
3. Add bread and egg  yolk, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the bread has dissolved in the sauce. 
4. Add meat, and continue to cook until the mixture has reached your desired consistency. 

Thoughts

This recipe is found in the pottage section of the Harl. MS 279, meaning it is a dish that is cooked in a pot.  The instructions as written above, advise us to mix the meat with the sauce, and to cook it. We are left to our imagination to determine if this is a saucier dish that could serve as a "soup/stew" or if it could be served as a sauce along side, sliced meat, which would be a more modern interpretation.  Or a meat cooked in sauce, similar to a meaty pasta sauce, or a good braised meat. 

For the presentation, I chose to serve this dish as a braised dish, using slices of pork braised in the mulberry sauce over sops of bread (to catch all of the sauce!), and a side of boiled & buttered vegetables. This would be a delicious appetizer or a perfect first course dish.  I hope you enjoy. 

Italian (Medieval) – To prepare a thick soup of dried lentils (Per far minestra di Lenti secche)

 The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, 1570

I love lentils! They are one of my favorite legumes and they have a very long history of cultivation dating back between 8000 and 10000 years ago. When I found this recipe in Scappi's Opera I knew I had to try it. It makes a delicious (and inexpensive) soup, but an even better salad. This particular "salad" was first created for a luncheon for House Beauvisage. I needed something easy to put together, that would fit a vegetarian diet, and would be ok served cold or at room temperature.

I have to confess, I cheated and used canned lentils for the salad, but you could make this even less expensive and purchase dried lentils and cook them yourself according to your package's directions. I have included the soup recipe here, along with the changes I made to convert this from a soup to a salad.

Original Recipe

Per far minestra di Lenti secche

Pulite le lenticchie dallo sporco e mettetele in una pentola con acqua tiepida; togliere quelli che galleggiano e far bollire il resto nella stessa acqua. Mentre cuociono, con un cucchiaio grande e forato tirate fuori quelli che salgono in superficie e metteteli in un'altra pentola: questo è fatto in modo che la sabbia che a volte entra nel loro buchino fuoriesca e cada sul fondo della pentola. In una pentola mettete delle buone lenticchie con l'olio, il sale, un po' di pepe, lo zafferano, l'acqua e una manciata di erbe fini sbattute; finire di cuocerli. Affinché il piatto sia buono, rendere il brodo piuttosto denso. Con essi si possono cuocere anche spicchi d'aglio, pezzetti di tinca e luccio.

My Interpretation

Clean dirt off the lentils and put them into a pot with warm water; remove any that float and boil the rest in the same water. While they are boiling, with a large, holed spoon lift out any that rise to the top and put them into another pot: that is done so that the sand that sometimes gets into their little hole will come out and drop to the bottom of the pot. Put good lentils into a pot with oil, salt, a little pepper, saffron, water, and a handful of beaten fine herbs; finish off cooking them. For the dish to be good, make the broth rather thick. Cloves of garlic can also be cooked with them and bit pieces of tench and pike.

ngredients

1 ½ c. lentils

2 ½ c. water

2 T olive oil

1 tsp black pepper

2 cloves garlic chopped

3/4 tsp salt

¼ tsp. Pepper

Herbs to taste; basil, rosemary, oregano, fennel, thyme, parsley, or sage Pinch saffron Opt: Onion (for modern taste), additional olive oil, lemon

Instructions

NOTE: The beauty of lentils is that they do not need to go through a prolonged soaking period. Do make sure to rinse your lentils before you add them to your pot of water, and do make sure that as they cook you remove any that rise to the top, and any scum that forms while they are cooking. You can if you choose cook your lentils in vegetable stock but it is not a necessary step.

2. Bring water (or stock) to a boil. Add your seasonings, and then lower the heat to a medium-low and simmer your soup until the lentils are tender.

NOTE: You may add any herbs you wish. I usually add a handful of kale to this soup along with some onion, thyme, basil, and parsley.

3. To serve, garnish with a drizzle of oil and a squirt of lemon.

To Make into a "Salad" - Make a dressing using lemon juice or vinegar (about 1/4 cup), olive oil (about 3/4 cup), herbs, and spices, and mix with your lentils while warm. Can be served warm, room temperature, or cold.