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| Pumpes - Meatballs in Almond Milk |
Originally published May 20, 2016. Updated June 2026.
Pumpes are among the prettiest dishes preserved in Harleian MS. 279: tender pork meatballs served beneath a smooth almond milk sauce, thickened with rice flour and finished with sugar, mace, and tiny red flowers. At first glance, the recipe looks simple. A good piece of pork is boiled, chopped very small with cloves, mace, and currants, rolled into small pellets, and served five to a dish beneath a pale almond milk pottage.
What makes this recipe so interesting is not simply that it is an early English meatball dish, but that it belongs to a much larger family of medieval shaped meat recipes. Across several English manuscripts we find related dishes called pomme dorry, powme dorrys, poumes, pumpes, pompys, and pomes. Some are boiled and roasted. Some are gilded with egg. Some are colored red or green with herbs or saffron. Some are served in broth, syrup, or almond milk. The meatball remains familiar. The sauce, color, and presentation change from manuscript to manuscript.
Here is another meatball recipe from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books: Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430), and Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, edited by Thomas Austin. This is very pretty to look at, but without salt or pepper the dish is a bit on the bland side. My guess is that the majority of the seasoning would come from whatever seasonings might have been used in the pork when it was cooked. I used ground raw pork to make the meatballs, and would highly suggest that you add additional seasoning than just clove and mace. I did.
Why This Recipe Matters
Long before meatballs found their way into bowls of tomato sauce, cooks across Europe and the Mediterranean were shaping seasoned meat into elegant little portions fit for refined tables. Roman cooks prepared shaped meats in savory sauces. Medieval Arabic cooks pounded meat with spices, saffron, onion, murri, and egg. English cooks gilded meatballs with eggs, colored them with herbs, floated them in almond milk, and crowned them with flowers.
Pumpes preserves one branch of that long culinary story. It shows how a familiar cooking technique could become something delicate, decorative, and unmistakably medieval.
Recipe Lineage: A Medieval Family of Meatballs
Unlike many medieval recipes that survive in only a single manuscript, Pumpes belongs to a remarkable family of shaped meat dishes that can be traced across English cookery from at least the late fourteenth century into the later fifteenth century.
Earlier examples appear in Forme of Cury as Pomme Dorryle and Pommedorry. These recipes use raw pork or beef, spices, currants, and egg before the formed balls are boiled, roasted, and decorated with herbs or saffron. Liber Cure Cocorum preserves Powme Dorrys, again emphasizing raw pork, beaten eggs, boiling, roasting, and colorful gilding. A Noble Boke off Cookry continues the tradition with Pomes, showing that these decorative meatball dishes remained part of English culinary practice well into the fifteenth century.
The broader technique is older still. Roman cookery includes shaped meat preparations served in sauce, and the thirteenth-century Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook includes meatball dishes made from pounded meat, egg, spices, saffron, onion, oil, murri, and aromatic cooking liquids. These sources do not prove that English Pumpes descended directly from Roman or Andalusian recipes, but they do show that cooks across many centuries understood the same useful idea: finely chopped or pounded meat could be seasoned, shaped, cooked, and served as elegant individual portions.
What changes from manuscript to manuscript is not the meatball itself, but the finishing treatment. In some recipes the balls are boiled and then roasted. In others they are colored with herbs or saffron. In Harleian MS. 279, they are transformed by broth, almond milk, rice flour, sugar, mace, currants, and flowers. That makes Pumpes part of a living recipe family rather than a lonely curiosity in the manuscript.
Historical Background
The name of the dish is part of the story. Medieval English spelling was far from standardized, and related recipes appear under several forms: poumes, pumpes, pompys, pomes, and pomme dorry. The word likely points toward the idea of a rounded shape, recalling the Old French pomme, or apple. These were not pumpkin dishes, but little rounded morsels of meat, shaped like small apples or pellets.
The recipe itself gives one of the most useful clues about presentation: "ley .v. pompys in a dysshe." Five meatballs were to be placed in a dish and covered with the almond milk pottage. This suggests an individual or small shared serving rather than a vague quantity poured into a communal bowl. The optional flower garnish, sugar, and mace also indicate that appearance mattered. This was not merely a way to use chopped pork. It was a dish meant to be seen.
Did You Know?
Medieval cooks decorated savory dishes with flowers centuries before edible flowers returned to modern fine dining. In Pumpes, each meatball could be topped with a small red field flower before serving.
The Original Recipe
Original source note: The Middle English recipe appears in Thomas Austin's edition of Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books. A modern transcription is also available through Medieval Cookery. Full source links are listed in the Sources section below.
.Cxxxviij. Pumpes. Take an sethe a gode gobet of Porke, & noȝt to lene, as tendyr as þou may; þan take hem vppe & choppe hem as smal as þou may; þan take clowes & Maces, & choppe forth with-alle, & Also choppe forth with Roysonys of coraunce; þan take hem & rolle hem as round as þou may, lyke to smale pelettys, a .ij. inches a-bowte, þan ley hem on a dysshe be hem selue; þan make a gode Almaunde mylke, & a lye it with floure of Rys, & lat it boyle wyl, but loke þat it be clene rennyng; & at þe dressoure, ley .v. pompys in a dysshe, & pore þin potage þer-on. An ȝif þou wolt, sette on euery pompe a flos campy*. [? field-flower. ] flour, & a-boue straw on Sugre y-now, & Maces: & serue hem forth. And sum men make þe pellettys of vele or Beeff, but porke ys beste & fayrest.
Translation
38. Pumpes - Take and boil a good piece of pork, and not too lean, as tender as you may; then take it up and chop it as small as you may; then take cloves and mace, and chop them together with it, and also chop in raisins of Corance; then take them and roll them as round as you may, like small pellets, about 2 inches around, then lay them on a dish by themselves; then make a good almond milk, and mix it with flour of rice, and let it boil well but look that it be clean running; and when you go to serve, lay five meatballs in a dish and pour your broth thereon. And if you will, set on every meatball a field flower, wild campion, a small red flower, and above strew on sugar enough and mace; and serve them forth. And some men make the pellets of veal or beef, but pork is best and fairest.
Flos Campi: A Flower Worth Remembering
One of the most delightful details in Pumpes appears in the final sentence of the recipe. After the meatballs have been placed in the almond milk pottage, the cook is invited to place a flos campi, literally a "flower of the field," upon each one before finishing the dish with sugar and mace. It is a reminder that medieval cooks valued presentation every bit as much as flavor.
The exact flower intended has been debated. The Middle English Dictionary describes it as:
"a special flour and hath that name for he groweth by himself in places that be nought tilled...and is a litil flour with a small stalk and the flour is reed as blood."
Many historians associate the description with wild campion or another small red field flower. For my reconstruction I chose red dianthus, known in period as the clove gillyflower, because it provides a similar appearance while remaining edible and readily available. Regardless of the exact species, the manuscript makes one thing clear: these meatballs were intended to be beautiful as well as delicious.
Ingredients in Context
Pork
The manuscript recommends pork over both beef and veal, concluding that "pork is best and fairest." The additional fat in pork helps produce tender meatballs after boiling while also creating a pleasing pale color beneath the white almond milk sauce. Although beef and veal were acceptable substitutions, pork clearly represented the preferred presentation.
Almond Milk
Modern readers often think of almond milk as a recent innovation, yet it appears throughout medieval English cookery. Almond milk was valued for its rich texture, delicate flavor, and brilliant white color. It also allowed cooks to prepare luxurious dishes during periods of religious fasting when animal milk was restricted. Harleian MS. 279 uses almond milk repeatedly, making it one of the defining ingredients of the manuscript.
Rice Flour
Rice was an imported luxury commodity in fifteenth-century England. Ground into flour, it created smooth sauces without overwhelming delicate flavors. The recipe specifically instructs the cook to make the sauce "clean running," suggesting that the finished pottage should lightly coat the meatballs rather than becoming a thick gravy.
Roysons of Coraunce
The manuscript specifies roysons of coraunce, small dried currants imported through Mediterranean trade. Medieval cooks frequently paired meat with dried fruit, producing the characteristic sweet-savory combinations found throughout aristocratic cuisine. These currants contribute gentle sweetness while balancing the warming spices of mace and cloves.
Household Context
Pumpes was likely prepared in the kitchens of prosperous households where imported almonds, rice, sugar, spices, and currants were readily available. Although the technique itself is straightforward, the ingredients speak of status. Individually plated portions, edible flowers, and imported luxuries suggest that this was intended for the tables of the gentry or nobility rather than as everyday fare.
The instruction to serve exactly five meatballs to a dish further suggests careful presentation rather than simple family dining. Like many recipes in Harleian MS. 279, the finished appearance was every bit as important as the flavor.
Feast Placement
Pumpes would have been especially appropriate during the opening courses of a medieval feast or as an elegant entremet served between larger meat courses. Its delicate almond milk sauce, decorative flowers, and imported ingredients made it visually impressive while remaining relatively light compared to the heavily roasted meats that often followed later in the meal.
Humoral Theory
Within medieval dietary theory, pork was generally regarded as nourishing and moist. The warming qualities of cloves and mace helped balance those characteristics, while almond milk softened the richness of the meat. Currants and sugar added gentle sweetness without overwhelming the savory nature of the dish. Together these ingredients produced what medieval physicians would likely have regarded as a carefully balanced first-course dish, intended to prepare the stomach for the remainder of the meal.
Reconstruction Notes
This reconstruction taught me an important lesson about medieval recipes. My first attempt followed the manuscript quite literally using fresh ground pork. Although the finished dish was attractive and remarkably easy to prepare, it lacked the depth of flavor I expected.
Looking more carefully at the manuscript, I suspect the answer lies in the opening instruction. The original recipe begins with a boiled piece of pork, not raw ground pork. That pork may already have been seasoned during its original preparation, something the medieval cook would simply have taken for granted. By beginning with fresh ground pork, I unintentionally omitted an entire layer of flavor.
Rather than altering the historical recipe itself, I chose to add additional seasoning for modern tastes. At the very least, salt and pepper greatly improve the final result. If I prepare this dish again, I would likely begin with leftover roasted or gently seasoned pork before chopping it finely, preserving both the spirit of the manuscript and the flavor the original cook may have expected.
Interpreted Recipe
Serves: 1 as a main dish, 2 as a side
1/4 pound ground pork
1/8 tsp. clove and mace
1 tbsp. raisins
1 cup almond milk
2 tbsp. rice flour
Small red flowers (I used red dianthus, known as clove gillyflower in period.)
Pinch of sugar and mace to garnish
Mix together the pork, clove, mace, raisins (and any additional seasoning you may wish), then shape into meatballs. I added one egg to bind the mixture together. Drop the meatballs into a pan of cool water and bring to a boil. Cook until thoroughly done.
While the meatballs are cooking, bring the almond milk and rice flour to a gentle boil until slightly thickened. I prefer a thicker sauce, so I used two tablespoons of rice flour. When the sauce has thickened and the meatballs are cooked, place them into a serving bowl, pour the almond milk over them, garnish with the flowers, and finish with a light sprinkle of sugar and mace. Add the flowers immediately before serving, as they wilt quickly.
As I noted in the original article, this was a very bland dish as reconstructed. Additional seasoning is required, at the very least salt and pepper, to better suit the modern palate. I suspect it would be especially successful using the same seasoning profile found in the lvj. Poumes recipe. Despite its mild flavor, this remains one of the prettiest dishes in Harleian MS. 279, and I would happily prepare it again for a future feast.
Kitchen Notes
- Authenticity: The recipe has been intentionally left at its original tested yield. Medieval feast cooks can easily scale it using [The Steward's Table]
- Seasoning: The manuscript assumes previously cooked pork. Modern ground pork benefits from additional seasoning, especially salt and pepper.
- Almond Milk: Homemade almond milk produces the richest flavor, but an unsweetened commercial almond milk may also be used.
- Currants: True currants are closer to the manuscript than modern raisins, although either produces an enjoyable result.
- Flowers: Add edible flowers only at the moment of service. They wilt quickly in the warm almond milk.
- Feast Preparation: The meatballs can be prepared a day ahead and gently reheated in the finished almond milk sauce before serving.
Kitchen Copy
Pumpes (Harleian MS. 279)
Yield:
1 main course or 2 side servings
Ingredients
1/4 pound ground pork
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1/8 tsp ground mace
1 tbsp currants (or raisins)
1 egg (optional for binding)
1 cup almond milk
2 tbsp rice flour
Pinch sugar
Pinch mace
Edible red flowers
Instructions
Mix pork, cloves, mace, currants and egg if using.
Form into small meatballs.
Poach until cooked through.
Heat almond milk and whisk in rice flour until lightly thickened.
Place five meatballs into each serving bowl.
Pour almond milk sauce over top.
Garnish with sugar, mace and edible flowers immediately before serving.
The Steward's Table
Preparing this recipe for a feast?
Copy the Kitchen Copy above and paste it into [The Steward's Table] to automatically:
- Scale the recipe up or down
- Create a working kitchen copy
- Generate shopping quantities
- Print a feast-ready version
The Steward's Table is designed specifically for historical cooks preparing anything from a family dinner to a large SCA feast.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why almond milk instead of dairy milk?
Almond milk was one of the defining ingredients of medieval English cookery. Besides producing a delicate white sauce, it was acceptable during many Church fast days when animal milk was prohibited.
Why are there flowers on the meatballs?
Decoration was an important part of elite medieval dining. Flowers, colored sauces, and bright garnishes demonstrated both wealth and the cook's skill while making the table more visually impressive.
Can I use beef or veal?
Yes. The manuscript specifically notes that some cooks prepared the pellets from beef or veal. However, it concludes that pork is "best and fairest."
Why does the recipe taste mild?
The original recipe begins with an already cooked piece of pork. That meat was probably seasoned during its initial preparation, something the medieval cook did not need to explain. Modern ground pork benefits from additional seasoning.
Continue Exploring Harleian MS. 279
Sources & Further Reading
If you'd like to explore the original manuscripts and related works, these sources provide the foundation for this reconstruction and are well worth reading.
Further Reading
One of the most enjoyable discoveries during the research for this article was realizing that Pumpes belongs to a much larger family of recipes spanning more than a thousand years. From Roman shaped meats served in savory sauces, through Arabic meatball dishes seasoned with saffron and murri, to the elegant English recipes of Forme of Cury, Liber Cure Cocorum, Harleian MS. 279, and A Noble Boke off Cookry, medieval meatballs tell a surprisingly rich story of culinary continuity and innovation.
AI Transparency
This article was originally published in 2016 and extensively expanded in 2026 using the original manuscript, comparative medieval cookbooks, historical food scholarship, and the author's tested reconstruction. The original recipe, photographs, observations, and reconstruction have been preserved while historical context has been expanded.
