Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – Renaissance Chicory Salad with Raisins & Shallots

Insalata di Cicorea Bianca, Scalognetti Freschi – White chicory salad with fresh shallots and raisins
— From the 16th‑c. Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook

Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – chicory salad served at Baronial 12th Night Feast

This vibrant bitter-sweet salad was served during the Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina course of the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. Inspired by a 16th-century Hungarian court manuscript known as the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook, it reflects a moment when Italian culinary sophistication influenced kitchens far beyond the Alps. The recipe calls out the Italians by name — praising their simplicity while offering a Hungarian twist.

This recipe comes from the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid-16th c.), preserved in Hungarian sources and available via MedievalCookery.com. It reflects Hungary’s cosmopolitan court culture under rulers like Gabriel Bethlen, where Italian culinary practices were deeply admired and adapted  

Historical Background: A Transylvanian Culinary Lens

The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook was compiled in a culturally rich period when Transylvania — then a principality of the Kingdom of Hungary — absorbed diverse culinary influences from Italy, the Ottoman Empire, and the German-speaking world. Courts under princes like Gabriel Bethlen and György Rákóczi I cultivated both humanist learning and refined dining. Italian food was especially admired, and references in the manuscript highlight its prestige.

🌍 Cross-Cultural Influences in the Transylvanian Court Kitchen

The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook reflects a sophisticated fusion of culinary traditions. While Italian cuisine is explicitly referenced, the manuscript shows clear signs of diverse influence:

• Ottoman Cuisine: Spiced meats, rice, pickled fruits, and sweet-sour pairings suggest Turkish and Persian inspiration.
• Germanic Traditions: Dumplings, pork fat, and bread-based dishes echo Saxon and Bohemian styles from Habsburg lands.
• Slavic Elements: Fermented dairy, allium-rich dressings, and foraged greens reflect broader East-Central European customs.
• Possible Armenian or Jewish Touches: Sweet-savory sauces with dried fruit and nuts hint at urban Levantine or Sephardic culinary habits.

This layered culinary identity was typical of 16th-century Transylvania, a crossroads of empires and trade. Recipes like this salad — which pairs Italian simplicity with Hungarian technique — exemplify that blending.

“The Italians do it like so: they slice [the chicory] into a pot or a plate, add salt and black pepper, then eat it. We Hungarian chef masters soak this, too.” — Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook

Renaissance Salad Styles

🌿 Renaissance Salad Styles

In Renaissance cookery, the concept of a salad went far beyond leafy greens. Derived from the Latin salata (meaning “salted things”), salads included raw or blanched vegetables, fresh herbs, cooked greens, and even warm dishes — all united by the presence of oil, vinegar, or brine.

Salads during this period often reflected Galenic medical theory, which emphasized balancing the four humors through food. Certain greens were considered cooling and moist, while others were hot and dry — and preparation methods were used to correct imbalances.

• Simple Salads – Raw herbs or greens, lightly salted or drizzled with oil
• Soaked Salads – Bitter greens or roots soaked to soften their bite or draw out excess moisture
• Composed Salads – Layered or marinated salads with ingredients like dried fruit, onions, and vinegar
• Herbed Salads – Complex mixtures of aromatic herbs, flowers, and sometimes spices
• Cooked Salads – Blanched or sautéed greens such as lettuce or spinach, often served warm and dressed, considered more digestible per Galenic principles

This dish blends the soaked and composed styles, pairing the bitter, cooling properties of chicory with the warming sweetness of raisins and the sharpness of shallot, all softened in a steeped vinaigrette. The balance of humors and textures makes it both medically appropriate and gastronomically appealing for a Renaissance table.

Italian vs. Hungarian Approaches

The manuscript’s author explicitly compares methods: Italians salted and dressed their chicory simply, while Hungarian chefs preferred to soak it. This extra step likely softened its bitterness and made it more palatable for guests unused to raw greens. The use of shallots and raisins adds both flavor complexity and textural contrast, demonstrating the court’s elevated approach to even humble ingredients.

The Role of Salads in Feast Structure

In formal Renaissance banquets, salads were often part of the Credenza (pantry-style) or Antipasti di Cucina (kitchen-prepared) courses. Their placement early in the meal aligned with medical advice — balancing digestion and setting the stage for heavier fare. This salad, with its bitter greens, aromatic vegetables, and tangy dressing, served as a perfect counterpoint to bot of the crostata's and pickled grapes also offered in this service.

Salads for Peasants, Merchants, and Princes

Not all Renaissance salads were created equal. Across early modern Hungary, salad preparation and presentation reflected both social class and medical belief:

• Noble Courts: Chicory, fennel, and imported greens were paired with raisins, citrus, or aromatic vinegars. These salads were layered, often steeped, and served early in formal meals to stimulate digestion.
• Merchant Households: Seasonal greens like cabbage or wild sorrel were tossed with onions, vinegar, and local oils. They mirrored court recipes in form but not luxury.
• Peasant Tables: Raw herbs and greens — if eaten — were foraged or grown and often dressed only with salt or a splash of vinegar.  In some European regions, fermented dairy or whey may have been used as a simple dressing. In Hungarian folk cooking, foraged greens like sorrel, nettles or dandelions were mixed with sourmilk or tejföl (fermented cream). Although these practices are not codified in noble cookbooks, they are part of practical traditions that have been handed down via oral tradition.

Over time, noble recipes filtered downward, simplified by necessity but retained in memory. This salad's bittersweet profile — once elite — became a rustic staple in many regional cuisines.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

• 1 large radicchio or white chicory, thinly sliced
• 1 cup shredded red or white cabbage
• 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• ½ shallot, thinly sliced
• ½ cup red raisins (or halved red grapes)

Dressing

• ½ cup raisins
• ½ shallot, minced
• 2 tbsp vinegar (balsamic or red wine)
• ¼ cup extra‑virgin olive oil
• Salt & pepper, to taste

1. Toss salad ingredients in a large bowl.
2. In a separate bowl, combine raisins, shallot, vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil and let steep.
3. Just before serving, drizzle dressing over the salad and serve immediately.

Humoral Properties of Chicory

Chicory (Cichorium intybus) was widely praised in Renaissance herbals and medical texts for its cooling and drying qualities. According to Galenic theory, it helped balance excess choler and bile, soothed the liver, and stimulated digestion. Bitter foods like chicory were often served at the beginning of a meal to “open the appetite.” When paired with vinegar, oil, and sweet elements like raisins, it formed a well-balanced and elegant dish.

Renaissance Salad Comparison by Region

Region	Salad Base	Dressings	Cultural Notes	Extant Recipes
Italian States	Chicory, endive, lettuce, fennel	Olive oil, vinegar, salt, herbs	Served early in meals for digestion; emphasized freshness and refinement	Lettuce - a cooked lettuce salad served with green sauce
Hungary (Nobility)	Chicory, fennel, radicchio, cabbage	Olive oil, vinegar, raisins, shallots	Adapted Italian forms; emphasized balance of bitter/sweet and humoral properties	White Chicory Salad (Modern Redaction)
England	Lettuce, spinach, herbs, flowers	Vinegar, oil, sugar, citrus juice	Often layered with nuts, dried fruit, and sweet-sour dressings; herbal and floral salads appeared in elite dining	Pepys To Make Buttered Wortes – Pepys 18
Germanic Lands	Cabbage, cress, herbs	Vinegar, lard, egg yolk	Hearty, rustic, influenced by monastic and beer culture	Salat – Aromatic Medieval Herb Salad
Ottoman Territories	Herbs, purslane, onions	Lemon juice, yogurt, oil, sumac	Rich sweet-sour profiles; integrated medicinal herbs	Purslane Salad – Medieval Recipes

🥕 Dietary Notes

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan: ✔️
• Gluten‑Free: ✔️
• Galenic balanced: Bitter greens offset by sweet fruit and sharp aromatics

---

Historical References

• Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid‑16th c.): includes “Chicory salad… The Italians do it like so…” and a list of 1603 feast menus 
• Chicory in Galenic medicine: see John Gerard’s Herbal (1597), and Mattioli’s Commentarii (1544)
• Banquet structure and salad use in Renaissance Europe: Platina, Scappi, and Romoli

Crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito - To prepare a crostata of mushrooms

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – To prepare a crostata of mushrooms for a day in Lent
— Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina, c. 1560

Translation Note: The phrase “in prestito” literally means “on loan” or “borrowed.” In Renaissance Italian culinary texts, it often referred to fast days — especially during Lent — when meat was forbidden and meals were offered in spiritual observance. A “giorno in prestito” was thus a day “loaned to God,” requiring dietary restraint but still calling for skilled, satisfying cookery.

Note: Scappi’s crostata method (likely recipes 221–222) typically included soft cheese and eggs. Though recipe 223 is titled “for a fast day,” it references that base without explicitly removing dairy, leading some modern interpretations (like this one) to keep the cheese. Historically, a true Lenten version would omit cheese and use dairy-free alternatives such as almond-based fillings.

In the heart of an Italian Renaissance kitchen, a crostata wasn’t just a pastry — it was a vehicle for showcasing the season’s best ingredients, shaped by time, place, and religious calendar. This particular recipe, Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito, comes from Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th century) and was written specifically for a “day in Lent” — when meat and animal fats were forbidden, but richly savory dishes were still expected at noble tables.

🍄 What Mushrooms Did Renaissance Cooks Use?

The original recipe refers to morels and to "the mushroom that grows at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes," which was described as firm and orange-tinted. This likely refers to chanterelles or possibly Caesar’s mushrooms (Amanita caesarea), both highly prized in the Italian Renaissance for their flavor and availability in oak or chestnut woodlands.

Mushrooms were considered acceptable fare on Lenten days because they were "neither fish nor flesh" and grew from the earth like vegetables. However, because mushroom poisoning was a genuine concern, most cookery books urged boiling wild mushrooms before use—even if it dulled their flavor.

Modern Substitutions

If fresh morels or chanterelles are not available, a good blend of cremini, oyster, shiitake, or portobello mushrooms works well. Mixing mushroom varieties provides depth and richness that mimics wild foraged flavors. Dried morels or porcini reconstituted in warm water are also excellent for layering in that "woodland" taste.

Tip: Avoid standard white button mushrooms for this dish—they lack the earthiness that Renaissance cooks prized in their “funghi di bosco.”

Renaissance Herbs and Flavor Pairings

Herbs were not simply seasoning — they were medicinal, seasonal, and intentionally paired with ingredients based on their humoral qualities. Mushrooms were considered “cold and moist” in Galenic terms, so cooks balanced them with “warm and dry” herbs like parsley, thyme, marjoram, mint, or sage. In Lenten cookery, the brightness of lemon and the lift of fresh herbs helped transform otherwise heavy or plain components into elegant, aromatic fare.

Lent Across Renaissance Europe

Italian Renaissance kitchens handled Lenten restrictions with creativity and abundance. Meat and animal fats were forbidden, but olive oil, vegetables, herbs, and often fish or shellfish remained fair game. Dishes like this crostata show how satisfying “meatless” cuisine could be — rich in umami, layered with textures, and full of complexity.

Compared to northern regions like England or the Low Countries, where fasting meant salt fish, ale pottage, or butter-thickened gruel, Italian cooks had a Mediterranean bounty to draw from. Almond milk, pine nuts, mushrooms, and wild greens allowed even the most devout households to enjoy sumptuous meals — legally and liturgically.

What Does “Crostata” Mean?

The word crostata comes from the Italian root crosta, meaning “crust”, which itself derives from the Latin crusta, meaning “hard outer shell” or “rind.” Related terms in Latin include crustulum (a little cake or pastry — root of the word crustulum/crustule, used in medieval Latin cookery). 

By the 15th–16th centuries, crostata in Italy referred broadly to: 

• Open-faced baked tarts (savory or sweet), made with a pastry base and visible fillings 
• Savory pies (enclosed or partially enclosed) 
• In some regional or culinary contexts: toasted bread or “crusted” slices used as a base or vehicle for toppings — particularly in fast-day preparations 

This broader use was recognized by: 

• Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.), where crostata is used interchangeably with “pan ghiotto” (gourmand bread) 
• Scappi’s Opera (1570), where crostate appear throughout menus as both rich tarts and layered bread dishes 

In both cases, the "crust" or "base" was essential — whether that meant baked pastry or well-toasted slices of bread, depending on ingredients, season, and occasion..

Both Domenico Romoli in his La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.) and Bartolomeo Scappi in his monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) include dozens of crostate — some encased in pastry, others built upon slices of bread or served open-faced in pans. For instance, Scappi describes crostate of vegetables, meat, cheese, or fish that are either baked in crusts or arranged on slices of toasted bread (Scappi, Book II, recipes 211–225).

In this recipe, the crostata is described as “pan ghiotto” — gourmand or luxurious bread — layered with savory toppings. The base is toasted or crusted bread, not pastry, aligning with Romoli's phrasing and period practice.  This usage parallels the French term “croûte” (as in en croûte), meaning food served on or enclsed in crusted bread or pastry.  All descend from the same Latin root - crusta - and highlight the central role of crust in both structure and flavor. 

While we might associate “crostata” today with sweet fruit tarts, its Renaissance meaning was far more versatile, often bridging the line between pastry and hearty antipasto.

It was served as part of the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 feast, a transitional course featuring hot, savory appetizers. This crostata balances rustic simplicity with complex flavor: mushrooms sautéed with herbs and garlic, layered atop crisp bread and soft cheese. Its inspiration comes directly from the forest floor — a celebration of the humble mushroom elevated to banquet fare.

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – Mushroom Crostata for a Lenten Day

Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop | Baronial 12th Night 2024 – Secundo Servito, Antipasti di Cucina

This savory mushroom crostata was one of four composed appetizers served during the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. The dish draws on Italian Renaissance sources like Domenico Romoli's La Singolare Dottrina, and is noted specifically as appropriate “per un giorno in prestito” – for a Lenten day. It’s vegetarian, full of woodland flavor, and easily adapted to suit modern dietary needs.

Feast Context

This antipasti course served as a flavorful bridge between cold pantry items and heavier meat dishes in a formal Italian Renaissance banquet. The mushroom crostata was served alongside:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – Gourmand bread with pork jowl or prosciutto – by Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Plated antipasti course with crostate, salad, and pickled grapes – 12th Night 2024

Original Text

223. Get morels or else the mushroom that grows in the woods at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes, which is round and firm and tends toward an orange colour. The safest thing is to bring them to a boil in water, though they are much more flavorful raw. In any case, whether raw or cooked, peel them carefully, beat them small with a knife and saute them in oil. Then get those ingredients used in recipe 222, adding in beaten and sauteed spring onions or else a small clove of garlic. Make up a torte with them in the way outlined in the above recipe.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette, sliced into ¾-inch diagonal slices
• Olive oil (for drizzling and sautéing)
• 1 lb mushrooms (cremini or wild, sliced)
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• ½ lb ricotta or other soft cheese
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Toast baguette slices until golden. Drizzle with olive oil.
2. In a skillet, heat more olive oil and sauté mushrooms, green onions, and garlic until tender.
3. Stir in lemon juice, thyme, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Spread ricotta onto each toast slice. Top with mushroom mixture.
5. Drizzle with additional olive oil. Cut each toast in half and serve warm.

Humoral Theory and Fasting Cuisine

Renaissance cooks operated under the framework of Galenic dietetics, which held that all foods had qualities — hot, cold, moist, dry — that affected the body’s balance of humors. Mushrooms were considered cold and moist, and thus could dampen digestion or cause melancholy if consumed without proper balance. To counteract this, recipes often paired them with warming, drying herbs like thyme, pepper, or mint, and used cooking methods like sautéing in oil to adjust their temperament. Even Lenten dishes like this crostata were not just about following rules — they were about preserving harmony in the body, especially during seasonal transitions and spiritual observances.

Notes and Substitutions

This is a rustic dish, originally made with wild mushrooms like morels or chestnut woodland varieties. The method is straightforward—chop, sauté, and season well. The addition of ricotta is a nod to Renaissance *torte* fillings, even though the Lenten version may have omitted it. 

Dietary Suggestions:

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan Option: Substitute vegan ricotta or herbed cashew cheese
• Gluten-Free Option: Use gluten-free toast or polenta rounds

---

Serving Suggestions

While Renaissance cooks didn’t serve crostate with “sides” as we think of them today, dishes like this were part of a richly varied course of hot antipasti. To replicate the experience, consider pairing with:

• Insalata di cicorea – bitter chicory greens with raisins and shallots
• Uva in salamoia – pickled grapes to offset the fat and salt
• Another crostata, such as mushrooms in pastry for variety
• Soft cheese with herbs or small fried cheese fritters
• Savory eggs or bite-sized sausages
• Fried bread with sugar and cinnamon as a bridging flavor

This crostata is best served hot, but does well at room temperature. Ideally it would be served as part of a shared platter or buffet-style second service of antipasti di cucina.

🍽️ Explore the Full Antipasti Course

• Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto
• White Chicory Salad with Raisins and Shallots
• Pickled Grapes

📘 Historical References

• Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina (Venice, 1560s) – Culinary guide for household stewards. Referenced crostata of mushrooms and "pan ghiotto".
• Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Comprehensive Renaissance cookbook. See: Book II (Crostate Recipes).
• 
  

Pan Ghiotto con Barbaglia – Scappi’s Renaissance Crostate with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto (1570)

Secundo Servito – Antipasti di Cucina (Second Service of Kitchen Appetizers)

Crostate di barbaglia, crostata di funghi, insalata di cicorea, and uva in salamoia — prepped and ready for service at 12th Night.

In the structure of a formal Italian Renaissance feast, the second course was not necessarily the heaviest—it was often a bridge between light pantry offerings and more substantial meat dishes. This Secundo Servito, or Second Service, featured Antipasti di Cucina: hot or composed savory appetizers prepared fresh from the kitchen, in contrast to the simpler cold antipasti di credenza served earlier.

These warm antipasti were designed to stimulate the appetite and prepare the body for digestion according to Galenic principles—the humoral theory that governed much of Renaissance cooking. Dishes often balanced sweet and sour flavors, incorporated herbs for digestive support, and reused day-old bread or preserved meats to show both economy and elegance.

Our 12th Night Second Service of Antipasti took inspiration directly from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 1570 masterpiece Opera dell’arte del cucinare. This course was curated and prepared by Jennifer Bishop, with generous contributions from Dan Parker, who substituted his homemade bacon in place of prosciutto with delicious results.

Served in the Second Antipasti Course:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – “To prepare crostate—that is, gourmand bread—with salted pork jowl or prosciutto”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – “To prepare a crostata of mushrooms (for a fast day)”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Each dish reflects Renaissance preferences for layered flavors and textures—toasted bread with rich toppings, sharp greens softened with sweet fruit, and preserved grapes offering a tart palate cleanser. The mushroom tart, notably, is drawn from Scappi’s frequent practice of offering giorni di magro (fast day) variants for religious observance.

Did You Know? Scappi’s antipasti courses regularly included both meat and vegetable preparations, showcasing not just opulence but also culinary mindfulness—adapting to dietary restrictions and balancing the humors.

🍞 Crostate – Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto

Course: Second Service – Antipasti di Cucina
Source: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)
Modern Redaction: Jennifer Bishop (with homemade bacon courtesy of Dan Parker!)
Serves: 16
Tags: Renaissance, Appetizer, Pork, SCA Feast

📜 The Original and Modern Translation

Scappi’s Original (1570)

Friggasi [le fette di pane] in butiro, overo in lardo liquefatto, et habbiasi barbaglia di porco tagliata in fette, overo presciutto, et soffrigganosi nella padella con cipollette battute, et cime di salvia, et come saranno soffritte, pongasi in esse un poco di aceto, et mosto cotto, over zuccaro, et pepe, et cannella, dandovi una calda, et habbianosi apparecchiate le fette del pane nel piatto bagnate con un poco di grasso caldo, et pongansi sopra la barbaglia o il presciutto, con l’altre materie, et servansi calda.

Modern Translation

Fry the bread in butter or melted lard. Slice the pork jowl or prosciutto and sauté in a pan with spring onions and sage tips. When done, add a little vinegar, reduced must or sugar, pepper and cinnamon; heat well. Arrange the toasted, greased bread slices on a platter, top with the jowl or prosciutto and the sauce, and serve hot.

🥄 Modern Recipe (Serves 16)

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette—sliced into 3/4-inch slices on a diagonal
• 8 thin slices prosciutto (or homemade bacon), halved
• 1 leek or spring onion, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp dried or fresh minced sage
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• Pinch of cinnamon
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp water
• 2 tbsp mosto cotto (grape must syrup)
• Extra-virgin olive oil or melted lard for frying

Instructions

1. Toast the baguette slices in a skillet with olive oil or lard until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2. Sauté the prosciutto or bacon with the sliced leek and sage until lightly browned.
3. Add vinegar, sugar, water, mosto cotto, pepper, and cinnamon. Simmer until the liquid thickens slightly into a sauce.
4. Arrange toasted bread slices on a serving platter. Spoon the meat mixture and sauce over each slice. Serve warm.

🍇 Bonus Recipe: Mosto Cotto (Grape Must Syrup)

Yield: About 1 small jar

• 4 pounds fresh grapes (any dark variety)

1. Wash grapes and remove them from the stems. Crush to extract juice (use a food mill, juicer, or your hands).
2. Strain juice through a fine mesh sieve or muslin to remove skins and seeds.
3. Pour the juice into a heavy-bottomed pot and simmer gently until reduced by one-third.
4. The syrup should be thick and coat a spoon. It will continue to thicken as it cools.
5. Pour into sterilized jars. Some age it up to 24 months, but it's ready to use once cooled.

🍽️ Dietary & Service Notes

• Contains: Gluten, Pork, Alliums
• Vegetarian Version: Omit the pork and replace with sautéed mushrooms and walnuts (for feast day adaptation)
• Feast Service: Best served warm on platters, pre-assembled and sauced
• Labels: Antipasti, Appetizer, Renaissance, Pork

Apple Moyle - A Sweet Medieval Apple Porridge

.Cxxxiiij. Apple Moyle – A Sweet Porridge of Apples & Almond Milk

Apples belong to the Rosaceae family along with pears, quince, loquat, medlars and yes, roses. It is believed that there has been over 10,000 different apple cultivars that have been developed, many of which are now lost. There are at least 100 different varieties of apples that are grown commercially, but of those, only ten make up 90% of the production in the United States. I find this distressingly sad.

As mentioned in my previous post on .lxxix. Apple Muse it is generally believed that domesticated apples has their origins in Central Asia. Apples are documented as early as 6500 B.C. in Jericho and the Jordan Valley. Theophrastes records in 323 B.C the process of budding, grafting and general tree care of six different varieties of apples that were known at the time.

There are many legends regarding this fruit, the most well-known is that of Adam and Eve wherein Eve tempts Adam to eat of the "forbidden fruit". Apples are well known then, as a fruit synonymous with temptation, a reputation that is apparently well earned.

Hercules is tasked with stealing the golden apples from the Tree of Life as one of his Twelve Labors. Atalanta, was tricked by Hippomenes, losing a footrace and securing a husband, because she stopped to pick up Golden Apples given to Hippomenes by Aphrodite.

Eris, the Greek goddess of discord threw a golden apple into the wedding party of Thetis and Peleus. The apple was inscribed with the word "kallisti", meaning the fairest. Three Goddesses coveted the apple, Hera, Athena and Aphrodite and the task of appointing which of the Goddesses was indeed the fairest fell upon Paris of Troy. It was Aphrodite who promised Paris of Troy the love of the most beautiful woman, Helen of Sparta, if he would appoint her the keeper of the apple. He did, and it was this apple that was indirectly responsible for causing the Trojan War.

Apples were not always associated with lust, love, temptation or sin. In fact, in Norse mythology it is the Goddess Idun who is the guardian of the golden apples that preserved the eternal youth of the Aesir. It is the apple that gave Avalon its name in the legends of King Arthur. The Welsh word for apple is Afal. In the legends of Arthur, apples are associated with very powerful forces of creation, birth, death and rebirth.

Lastly, the ancient Celts believed that apples were to be treasured. Apple blossoms were used as symbols of fertility and would be placed in bedrooms. They were also symbolic of goodwill, integrity and purity and love. There is a myth told of Conle, who received an apple that fed him for a year.

Dietary Notes: Naturally vegan, dairy-free, and easily gluten-free with certified rice flour.

As explored in my previous post on Apple Muse, apples are more than just a pantry staple—they are mythic, symbolic, and deeply tied to culinary history. From the Golden Apples of the Hesperides to Idun’s youth-preserving fruit, their place in mythology rivals their place in the medieval kitchen.

Apple Moyle comes to us from the Harleian MS. 279, and like many medieval dishes, it leaves room for interpretation. My reading suggests a creamy porridge, enriched with almond milk and brightened by saffron and sweet spices. The base is similar to Cxxv - Vyolette, a sweet violet-hued pudding also made with rice flour and almond milk.

🔍 What Does Moyle Mean?

The word “moyle” doesn’t have a direct, surviving culinary definition in modern English, but in the context of medieval cooking, it appears to carry a connotation of softening, mashing, or reducing to a pulp.

It may be connected to:

• Old French “moiller” or “mouiller” – to moisten or make soft/wet
• Latin “mollis” – soft
• Middle English “moillen” – to soften, soak, or mash

In the recipe, the phrase: “...take apples, and pare hem, an smal screde hem in mossellys...” directs the cook to shred apples into morsels and simmer them with rice and almond milk until softened—producing something thickened and spoonable, like a mash or porridge.

📘 Compare to “Apple Muse”

As discussed in the Apple Muse post, “muse” is derived from Middle English and Old French terms for mash, pulp, or purée. Both Moyle and Muse reflect method and texture more than specific ingredients.

• Muse often results in a fully puréed dish
• Moyle retains soft apple chunks within a thickened base

🧠 Historical Insight

These names were likely descriptive rather than fixed titles. A medieval cook might have considered moyle to mean “the soft one” and muse to imply a smoother mash.

If naming them today, you might say:

• Apple Muse = smooth apple-almond porridge
• Apple Moyle = soft apple-and-almond stew with texture

✅ In Summary: “Apple Moyle” likely refers to the soft texture of the finished dish. Like “muse,” it reflects a tradition of sweetened, spiced fruit preparations—served warm, spoonable, and comforting.

Original Recipe – Harleian MS. 279

Nym Rys, an bray hem wyl, & temper hem with Almaunde mylke, & boyle it; & take Applys, & pare hem, an smal screde hem in mossellys; þrow on sugre y-now, & coloure it with Safroun, & caste þer-to gode pouder, & serue forth.

Interpreted Recipe – Apple Moyle

Serves 8 as a breakfast or side dish

Ingredients

• 2 cups almond milk
• 1/2 cup rice flour
• 4 small apples, peeled, cored, diced
• 1/2 cup sugar
• Generous pinch of saffron
• 1 tsp powder douce
• 1/4 tsp salt (optional, but recommended)

Instructions

1. Combine almond milk, rice flour, saffron, sugar, and salt in a saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add diced apples and simmer gently, stirring often, until apples are soft and the mixture thickens (15–20 minutes).
3. Sprinkle with powder douce just before serving.

When was Apple Moyle Served? 

This dish likely appeared during the pottage course of a medieval feast—offered as a soft, nourishing side. It could also be served as a fruit sauce for meat (especially pork or poultry), or as a light first course to stimulate appetite. Leftovers can be stored in the fridge and reheated gently with a splash of almond milk to loosen the texture.

Notes from the Test Kitchen

This dish was a hit with my testers—so much so that there may have been spoon duels over the last bite. I added a pinch of salt, which balanced the sweetness beautifully. This pudding makes an excellent camp breakfast: simple, hearty, and deeply satisfying.

Related Recipes

• Apple Muse – Another medieval apple pudding with rice flour and almond milk.
• Ein Apfelmus (c.1345, Germany) – A richer apple mash with wine and egg.
• Forme of Cury: Appulmoy – Pureed apple with almond milk, honey, and rice flour.