The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

The Allesso Course: Fricasseed Rabbit and Black Broth from Scappi’s Renaissance Kitchen

In Renaissance Italy, the Allesso course was far more than a collection of humble boiled meats. Derived from the Italian lessare (“to boil”), allessi were dishes of poached or stewed meats and vegetables, prepared with care and often elevated through refined presentation or garnishes. In the kitchens of Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to Pope Pius V, even the simplest allesso was transformed into a work of culinary art.

Unlike the more theatrical roast course that often followed, the Allesso course was meant to be soothing, nourishing, and elegantly restrained. It reflected Galenic medical principles, which emphasized balance, moisture, and ease of digestion. During our 12th Night 2024 feast, this course included two complementary dishes prepared by Catherine Greenwood: a savory fricassee of rabbit and a rich, dark brodo nero—a black broth flavored with fruit, spices, and wine. These dishes were served together to highlight the contrasting techniques of sautéed and boiled preparations under one thematic course.

Conyng in Cyuey (Hen/Rabbit/Duck in Onion Sauce) – Harleian MS. 279 | Medieval Recipe + Modern Interpretation

Hen in Cyve – Medieval Chicken (or Rabbit/Duck) in Onion & Wine Sauce (Harleian MS. 279)

Conyng, Mawlard, in gely or in cyuey – Hen, Rabbit, or Duck in Onion Sauce (Harleian MS. 279)

What is “Cyve / Cyuey”? A savory medieval onion sauce thickened with bread and sharpened with vinegar and wine—balanced with warm spices like ginger, mace, cinnamon, and cloves. Wonderful with poultry, rabbit, or duck.

Updated 5/21/2021: This post now includes related recipes: .lxxiij. Conyngys in cyveye and .lxiij. Harys in Cyueye.

Medieval Stew in Onion Sauce

One of my favorite finds from The Ordinance of Pottage was “Hare in Cyve,” a richly flavored onion-based sauce that quickly became a feast favorite in my early SCA days. When I later discovered a related recipe in Harleian MS. 279 (c.1430), I knew it had to go on my cooking list.

Conyng means rabbit; Hare its larger cousin; and Mawlard means duck. The recipe offers flexibility—showing how cooks adapted this onion-thickened sauce (or cyuey) to whatever meat was available.

📖 A cyuey is a spiced medieval onion sauce thickened with bread and vinegar, balancing savory, sweet, and tart notes. It’s delicious with poultry, rabbit, or game.

Original Text (Harleian MS. 279)

.xlij. Conyng, Mawlard, in gely or in cyuey – Take Conynge, Hen, or Mawlard, and roste hem alle-most y-now, or ellys choppe hem, an frye hem in fayre Freysshe grece; an frye myncyd Oynenons, and caste alle in-to þe potte, & caste þer-to fayre Freysshe brothe, an half Wyne, Maces, Clowes, Powder pepir, Canelle; þan take fayre Brede, an wyth þe same brothe stepe, an draw it þorw a straynoure wyth vynegre; an whan it is wyl y-boylid, caste þe lycoure þer to, & powder Gyngere, & Salt, & sesyn it vp an serue forth.

Modern Translation

42. Rabbit, Hen, or Duck in Onion Sauce – Take rabbit, hen, or duck, and roast them almost enough, or else chop them, and fry them in good fresh fat. Fry minced onions and add all into the pot with fresh broth and half wine, along with mace, cloves, pepper, and cinnamon. Then take good bread, soak it in the same broth, and strain it with vinegar. When it is well boiled, add this mixture, plus ginger and salt. Adjust seasoning and serve hot.