Lady Graie’s Manchet Bread – Elizabethan White Bread Recipe

Elizabethan Manchet Bread – three loaves from one batch

Originally published 8/30/2015 / Updated 10/2/2025

Introduction

Can you imagine eating two to three pounds of bread a day? Or washing it down with a gallon of ale? During the late medieval and early modern period, that was the standard ration for households and garrisons alike. Bread wasn’t just food—it was the staple at every table. It appeared as trenchers, used as edible plates, or as the fine “table bread” known as pain de mayne or manchet.

The Menagier de Paris even instructs his wife that four-day-old trencher bread was best for entertaining, as it held its shape beneath sauced meats. From castle to cottage, bread marked rank: the nobility received pale white wheat bread, while darker maslin loaves went to servants. This post focuses on one of the most celebrated “white breads” of Elizabethan England: manchet.

What is manchet?

Manchet was the “best” white household bread of the late Tudor and early Stuart period. These were small, hand-sized loaves or rolls made from double-bolted flour (finely sifted to remove bran and germ), yielding a pale crumb and firm crust.

Leavening

Recipes call for a piece of old dough (sourdough-style leaven) opened with water and mixed with ale barm—brewer’s yeast skimmed from fermenting ale. In a modern kitchen, this is easily mimicked with commercial yeast and a splash of mild ale.

Deep dive: see my pillar post on White Bread in Early Modern England.

Historical Recipe

The following comes from The Good Huswifes Handmaide for the Kitchin (1594), under the title “The making of manchets after my Ladie Graies use.” It is one of the earliest printed bread recipes in English.

Take two peckes of fine flower, which must be twice boulted, if you will have your manchet verie faire: Then lay it in a place where ye doe use to lay your dowe for your bread, and make a litle hole in it, and put in that water as much leaven as a crab, or a pretie big apple, and as much white salt as will into an Egshell, and all to breake your leaven in the water, and put into your flower halfe a pinte of good Ale yeast, and so stir this liquor among a litle of your flower, so that ye must make it but thin at the first meeting, and then cover it with flowre, and if it be in the winter, ye must keepe it verie warm… Of one pecke of flower ye make ten caste of Manchets faire and good.

Comfits of Anise and Fennel – Medieval Candied Spices & Seeds (A Sweet Treat from the Past)

Comfits—candied spices & seeds—served as sweet digestives and table decoration in late medieval & Renaissance feasts.

Comfits – Medieval Candied Spices & Seeds (How to Make Historic Comfits)

Originally published 9/15/15 / updated 10/1/2025

Please note this correction: gum arabic and gum tragacanth are not the same substance. I originally conflated them—mea culpa, and thank you to the reader who flagged it.

Baronial 12th Night Comfits

Comfits were often served at the end of a feast as a digestive, to perfume the breath, and to decorate subtlety dishes and table settings. Aromatic seeds such as anise, fennel, or caraway were built up with repeated coats of sugar syrup—sometimes tinted with beet, spinach, or saffron. Almonds, ginger, and cinnamon splinters appear in later sources as well. You can still buy descendants of these sweets today (think Jordan almonds and pastilles), but handmade comfits are more delicate and—yes—tastier.

Chawatteys – Medieval Pork & Veal Pie with Fruit and Spice (Harleian MS. 279, c. 1430)

Chawatteys (Harleian MS. 279, c. 1430)

Originally published: 2017 — Updated: 2025

Chawatteys is a late medieval pie blending pork or veal with dried fruit, saffron, eggs, and warm spices. The mix of sweet and savory, baked in a pastry shell, reflects the luxury tastes of fifteenth-century England. It comes to us from Harleian MS. 279, one of the great English cookbooks of the early 1400s.

Did You Know?

The name Chawatteys (also spelled Chawettys or Chywettes) comes from the Middle English word chewet, meaning a small pie. The word is thought to derive from Old French chouette (“owl”), since early chewets were sometimes shaped to resemble little birds. Over time, chewet came to mean any small meat pie, often filled with minced pork, dried fruit, and spices.

Modern notes: Can’t find verjus? Substitute with a splash of wine vinegar. Veal may be replaced with pork, or even chicken. If you want a vegetarian option, mushrooms or eggplant can stand in for the meat (though this moves away from the medieval version). Zante currants and saffron are both available online if your local shop doesn’t stock them.

The Original Recipe

Chawatteys (Harlieian MS 279, c. 1430) Take buttys of Vele, and mynce hem smal, or Porke, and put on a potte; take Wyne, and caste þer-to pouder of Gyngere, Pepir, and Safroun, and Salt, and a lytel verjus, and do hem in a cofyn with yolks of Eyroun, and kutte Datys and Roysonys of Coraunce, Clowys, Maces, and þen ceuere þin cofyn, and lat it bake tyl it be y-now.

Canabeys with Lekys — A Medieval Bean and Leek Pottage (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Canabeys with Lekys — Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430)

Originally published 3/30/2015, Updated 9/17/2025

What is “Canabeys (Canabens) with Lekys”?

Canabeys/Canabens in Harleian MS. 279 refers to cooked beans, most often the broad/fava beans familiar to medieval cooks, prepared plainly in broth or enriched with dairy and sometimes served with bacon. Combined with lekys (leeks), you get a humble, comforting pottage that fits beautifully on a fifteenth-century table—and on ours.

🥕 Dietary badge: Vegetarian as written; easily vegan. Gluten-free.

Blawnche Perrye – Creamed Leeks with Rice and Fish (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Harleian MS. 279 (c.1430) – For to make Blawnche Perrye – Creamed Leeks with Rice

Originally published 3/30/2017 Updated 9/10/2025

In Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430), we are told to serve fish — especially eel — with Blawnche Perrye, much as venison was paired with furmenty. Eel was common in medieval England, but difficult to find (and costly) today. For this version, I substituted perch, though monkfish or mullet would be closer to the fatty, firm texture of eel.

This dish sits at the intersection of pottage cookery and fish service. It’s a reminder of the wide variety of fish eaten in the Middle Ages: herring, salmon, eel, cod, pike, turbot, perch, carp, trout, even porpoise and whale. Shellfish such as oysters, cockles, shrimps, crabs, and mussels were also common.

The Original Recipe

.xlv.—For to make Blawnche Perrye.
Take þe Whyte of the lekys, an seþe hem in a potte, an presse hem vp, & hacke hem smal on a bord. An nym gode Almaunde Mylke, an a lytil of Rys, an do alle þes to-gederys, an seþe an stere it wyl, an do þer-to Sugre or hony, an dresse it yn; þanne take powderd Elys, an seþe hem in fayre Water, and broyle hem, an kytte hem in long pecys. And ley .ij. or .iij. in a dysshe, and putte þin perrey in a-noþer dysshe, an serue þe to dysshys to-gederys as Venysoun with Furmenty.

Daniel Myers offers a modernized Middle English transcription on Medieval Cookery, and the recipe is also rendered in Austin’s edition of Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books.

Modern Recipe

Chykonys in Bruette — Medieval Chicken in Ale-Broth with Saffron (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Chykonys in Bruette — Chicken in Ale-Broth with Saffron (Harleian MS. 279)

Chykonys in Bruette — Chicken in Ale-Broth with Saffron (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Originally published 12/21/2016 - Updated 9/10/2025

Bruet/bruette in Middle English generally signals a sauce or broth thickened with bread and seasoned with warm spices. In Harleian MS. 279, this dish is a straightforward, feast-friendly pottage: gently boiled chicken, chopped, then simmered in its own broth with ale, pepper, ginger, and saffron, thickened with ground bread. A related stream of recipes (Forme of Cury, Liber cure cocorum, Noble Boke) adds pork and cumin; this post presents the Harleian-only version first and notes the pork-and-cumin variant below.

Original Recipe

.lxxxxvij. Chykonys in bruette.
Take an Sethe Chykonys, & smyte hem to gobettys; þan take Pepir, Gyngere, an Brede y-grounde, & temper it vppe wyth þe self brothe, an with Ale; an coloure it with Safroun, an sethe an serue forth.

Gloss: Boil chickens; chop to gobbets. Grind pepper, ginger, and bread; temper (mix) with the same broth and ale; color with saffron; boil and serve.

Modern Recipe (tested)

Yield: 4 servings (pottage course) • Time: ~45 minutes

Ingredients

• 2 lb (900 g) bone-in chicken (thighs or split breasts)
• Water to cover (or light chicken broth)
• 1 cup (240 ml) mild ale (low-bitterness)
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• ¾–1 tsp ground black pepper
• Generous pinch saffron, crumbled
• ¾–1 cup (45–60 g) fresh breadcrumbs (or 35–45 g dried, finely ground)
• Salt, to taste

Method

1. Parboil: Cover chicken with water; bring to a gentle boil. Skim, then simmer until just cooked (20–25 min). Remove chicken; reserve broth. When cool enough, strip meat and cut into bite-size pieces.
2. Make the bruette: Measure 4 cups (950 ml) of the chicken broth back into the pot. Add ale, ginger, pepper, and saffron. Bring to a gentle simmer 3–5 minutes to bloom spices.
3. Thicken: Whisk in ground bread gradually until the broth lightly coats a spoon; simmer 3–5 minutes. Adjust thickness with more bread or broth.
4. Finish: Return chicken to the pot; simmer 2–3 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve hot.

Cook’s Notes: Aim for a spoonable, saucy pottage—not a paste. If your ale is bitter, cut with more broth. For a silkier texture, sieve the sauce before adding the chicken.

Fylettys en Galentyne - Pork in Spiced Onion Sauce (Stew & Sauce Interpretations, Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Fylettys en Galentyne – Pork in Spiced Onion Sauce (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Kitchen test photo from the original 2016 post, showing the stew interpretation of Fyletes in Galentyne.

Fyletes in Galentyne appears in Harleian MS. 279 (c.1430) and exemplifies a common medieval pairing: roasted or half-roasted meat finished in a rich, spiced sauce. The “galentyne” is thickened with bread and given depth either by blood (for savory richness) or by sanders (red sandalwood) to tint and flavor. Both are legitimate medieval options, so we present them side by side.

Note on interpretation: When this recipe was first published here on February 11, 2016, I presented it as a stew — simmered pork and onions in a spiced broth. On closer reading, however, the text more clearly aligns with the medieval understanding of galentyne as a sauce for meat: roast pork finished with a thickened, spiced, colored sauce. 

Both versions are plausible, so I’ve left my original interpretation here (Version A) and added the sauce-based version (Version B). The original post has been updated and republished on September 10, 2025 to reflect this correction.

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Original Recipe (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Englishe:
“Take fayre porke of the fore quarter, and rost hit tyl hit be almost ynogh; then take and smyte hit in fayre pecys, and caste hit in a fayre potte; then take oynons and shredde hem small, and frie hem in fayre grece, and caste hem to the porke, and stew hit togydre; then take gode broth of beef or motton, and caste thereto; then take powder of peper and of gynger, and caste thereto; and take bred ystepid in vinegre, and strayne hit thorow a straynoure, and caste thereto; and colour hit with blode, or elles with sandres, and then lat hit boyle up wel, and serve it forth.”

Modern Translation:
Take good pork from the forequarter and roast it until nearly done; cut into pieces and place in a pot. Chop onions, fry them in fat, and add to the pork. Stew together with good beef or mutton broth. Add pepper and ginger. Take bread soaked in vinegar, strain it, and add. Color with blood—or else with red sandalwood—and let it boil well. Serve forth.

Cormarye – Spiced Wine Pork Roast (Forme of Cury)

Cormarye – Spiced Wine Pork Roast (Forme of Cury)

“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for spice-laden pork roasts such as cormarye.

Source: The Forme of Cury, c. 1390 (ed. Hieatt & Butler). Adapted in Redon et al., The Medieval Kitchen (1998).

Original Recipe

Take Colyaundre, Caraway, garlec ygrounde, powdour fort, and salt, medle all this togyder and lay it on a fylett of pork al holes, and lay it to roste; when it is rosted enough, take vinegre and wyne and the juyce of the pork, medle hem togyder, and serve forth.

Translation

Take coriander, caraway, ground garlic, strong spice powder, and salt. Mix all this together and spread it over a fillet of pork, pricking it well. Roast it. When it is cooked enough, take vinegar, wine, and the juices of the pork, mix them together, and serve it forth.

Fungi di Monte – Renaissance Italian Mushrooms from Scappi (1570)

Fungi di Monte – Renaissance Mountain Mushrooms

“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.

Sources: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare, 1570 (Book II, cap. 193); Odile Redon, Françoise Sabban, Silvano Serventi, The Medieval Kitchen, 1998.

Mushrooms were a popular ingredient in Renaissance Italy, eaten in fast-day dishes and served alongside roasted meats. This recipe for Fungi di Monte (“mushrooms of the mountain”) comes to us from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental 1570 Opera. Redon adapts it into a clean, modern version while preserving its essential spicing and method.

Historic Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Per cuocere funghi di monte in più modi. Dopo che saranno ben nettati, si cuociano in acqua calda, & si lascino scolare; poi si facciano soffriggere con cipolla trita, olio, sale, pepe, canella, garofali, & altre buone spetiarie. Si possono anco cuocere con burro fresco, & cacio parmigiano, & similmente si possono friggere in pastello.

Translation

To cook mountain mushrooms in several ways. After they are well cleaned, cook them in hot water and let them drain; then fry them with chopped onion, oil, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and other good spices. They may also be cooked with fresh butter and Parmesan cheese, and likewise they may be fried in batter.

Medieval French Cooking: Une Vinaigrette (Beef & Onions in Spiced Wine Sauce)

Une Vinaigrette (Beef & Onions with Wine-Ginger Sauce)

“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese. Used here as period context for a Renaissance savory pie.

Context

Une Vinaigrette appears in medieval French sources and was translated by Terence Scully (1998). The dish layers beef (or lamb) with onions and serves it in a sauce of red wine, broth, breadcrumbs, and warming spices—ginger, grains of paradise, pepper, saffron, and vinegar. The result is both hearty and sharp, showing the medieval palate for savory meats balanced with spice and sour notes.

Humoral Qualities

In humoral theory, beef is heavy, hot, and dry, suited to those with strong digestions or balanced by moistening and cooling elements. The onions and wine add heat and sharpness, while the vinegar offers a cooling, cutting quality to aid digestion. The dish would have been considered appropriate in a main roast course, but could also appear earlier to stimulate appetite.

Provenance

The recipe for Une Vinaigrette comes from Le Viandier, one of the most important medieval French cookbooks. Traditionally attributed to Guillaume Tirel (called Taillevent), master cook to King Charles V of France, the text survives in several manuscripts from the late 14th and 15th centuries. It reflects the refined cooking of the French court, where sauces of wine, vinegar, and warming spices balanced the heaviness of roasted meats. Terence Scully’s 1998 edition (The Viandier of Taillevent, University of Ottawa Press) provides a critical edition of the extant manuscripts and the English translation used here.

Original French

Une vinaigrette. Prenez buef ou mouton et coupez en pièces, puis mettez-les à rostir au gril. Prenez oignons et taillez par rondelles, et friez en sain de lart bien cuit. Puis prenez bon vin vermeil et bouillon de buef, et mettez du pain blanc tosté et broyé pour lier. Mettez gingembre, graine de paradis, poivre et saffran, et un petit de vinaigre. Couliez vostre sausse, et mettez vostre viande et oignons dedans; ou les servez à part, et la sausse en un autre plat.

This passage is the basis for Scully’s English rendering: beef or mutton, roasted with onions, served in a sauce of red wine, broth, breadcrumbs, ginger, grains of paradise, saffron, pepper, and vinegar.

Original Text & Modern Translation

Original (Scully, 1998)

Modern Interpretation

Take beef or mutton and cut it in pieces, then put them to roast on the grill. Take onions and slice them into rounds, and fry them in grease until well cooked. Then take good red wine and beef stock, put therein white bread toasted and ground to thicken it, and season with ginger, grains of paradise, pepper and saffron, and a little vinegar. Strain the sauce and put the meat and onions therein; or serve the meat and onions separately, with the sauce in a dish.

Cut beef or lamb into chunks and roast or grill until done, but not overcooked. Slice onions into rounds and sauté them in butter, oil, or lard until golden. For the sauce, simmer red wine and beef broth with breadcrumbs until smooth. Add ginger, pepper, grains of paradise (or allspice), saffron, and a splash of vinegar. Strain the sauce and serve it either mixed with the meat and onions, or on the side as a dip. Excellent served on its own, or with rice or pasta.

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda - Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style - Scappi

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Herb-Filled Pasta in the Lombard Style — Scappi’s Comforting Winter Classic

This delicate and fragrant dish of tortellini stuffed with sautéed greens, herbs, cheese, and sweet spices originates from Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570), the monumental cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi. Best known as the personal chef to Pope Pius V, Scappi was a master of both elaborate banquets and refined simplicity — and this recipe, nestled in Chapter 179 of his Secondo Libro, showcases the Lombard love of herbs, butter, and subtly sweet notes.

Scappi and the Rise of Pasta in the Renaissance Kitchen

Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570) offers one of the most complete windows into the elite cuisine of late Renaissance Italy — and pasta plays a surprisingly prominent role. While modern perceptions associate early Italian cuisine with bread and stews, Scappi details dozens of pasta forms: tortelletti, tagliatelle, lasagne, gnocchi, and more. He provides both fast-day (Lenten) and meat-day variations, often using rich fillings, egg-based doughs, and flavored broths.

Beyond Pasta: Scappi’s Influence on Italian Cuisine

While Scappi is celebrated for cataloging pasta, his legacy goes well beyond noodles. He formalized kitchen hierarchy, seasonal menu planning, and equipment standards that echoed into the 18th century and beyond. His work documents early uses of parchment paper for baking, cooking with a bain-marie, and even proto-refrigeration techniques using snow. He preserved the culinary knowledge of late medieval traditions while also introducing innovations that bridged the gap to modernity. Scappi’s recipes emphasized not only taste but also visual elegance, hygiene, and timing — principles that continue to shape Italian fine dining today.

His chapter on pasta (including Cap. 177–179) reflects the growing popularity of filled pasta in elite households — a sign of culinary sophistication. Doughs were often perfumed with rose water or sugar, and pasta was sometimes served in sweetened broths or dusted with sugar and cinnamon. These dishes bridged the gap between savory and sweet, medicine and indulgence, humble vegetables, and luxurious presentation.

In the Spirit of Romoli: Doctrine and Daily Table

Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (“The Singular Doctrine”) outlines not only how to cook but also how to organize and serve elaborate banquets across the seasons. His January banquet — which inspired this feast — features carefully curated combinations of hot and cold, dry and moist, light and heavy, always with an eye toward harmony and digestion. Pasta dishes like tortelletti fit perfectly into this philosophy: gentle on the stomach, warming in the winter months, and suitable for both Lenten and meatless preparations, depending on the broth and sauce.

Romoli, like Scappi, reflects the culinary doctrine of the sixteenth-century Italian elite, where food was viewed as an art, a science, and a means to health, all served in silver.

The Lombard Legacy: Herbs, Pasta, and Humoral Balance

Lombardy, located in northern Italy, was renowned throughout the Renaissance for its refined cuisine and affinity for dairy, herbs, and egg-rich dishes. Dishes like tortelletti d’herba reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and the influence of monastic gardens and courtly kitchens. These small-filled portions of pasta, cousins to ravioli and agnolotti, were considered both elegant and nourishing — ideal for feast days or Lenten fare when meat might be restricted, but the richness was not.

The inclusion of sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with sugar and currants, reveals a broader Renaissance fascination with balancing flavors and creating contrasts on the palate — often underpinned by humoral theory. Warm spices helped balance the “cold” qualities of greens, while cheese and egg yolks added “moist” richness. In this way, tortelletti d’herba were more than delicious — they were medicinally appropriate.

Did You Know?
Common greens used in Renaissance kitchens included bietole (Swiss chard or beet tops), spinaci (spinach), and cavolo nero. Herbs like parsley, mint, marjoram, and savory were prized not just for flavor but for their role in digestive and humoral health.

What Herbs and Greens Were Used in Renaissance Tortelletti?

The phrase herba alla Lombarda in Scappi's recipe refers to a familiar blend of leafy greens and aromatic herbs popular in northern Italy during the Renaissance. Common greens included bietole (chard or beet greens), spinaci (spinach), and sometimes cavolo nero (black cabbage). These were often combined with soft herbs like parsley, marjoram, mint, and savory — herbs prized for their digestive and warming properties, aligning with humoral dietary practices of the time. Regional cooks might adjust the balance of herbs depending on season and occasion: more mint and marjoram in summer, more parsley and chard in winter.

We featured this dish as part of the Arrosto course at our 12th Night 2024 feast, where it was served alongside roast beef, sweet mustard sauce, Turkish squash, and jewel-like Renaissance jelly bites. Helewyse de Birkestad adapted the recipe used in her event, Feste di San Martino, and offers a beautifully balanced winter pasta that pairs greens with Parmesan, currants, and spices.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Historical Recipe: Per far minestra di tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Scappi, Opera (1570), Cap. CLXXIX, Secondo Libro

Take beet (chard) and spinach, chop very finely, wash in several waters, and wring dry. Fry them gently in fresh butter, and add a handful of odiferous herbs. Boil briefly, then drain and combine the mixture in a glazed earthen or tinned copper pot. Add grated Parmesan and soft cheese, with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, currants, and enough raw egg to bind. If too soft, add breadcrumbs; if too firm, more butter. Make pasta as described in Chapter 177, shape small or large tortelletti, boil in meat broth, and serve with cheese, sugar, and cinnamon on top.

Modern Redaction (Adapted by Helewyse de Birkestad)

Pasta Dough

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• Pinch of salt
• 1 tbsp butter, melted
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp rosewater
• ~1¼ cups warm water (as needed)

Filling

• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 1 bunch spinach
• Small handful each: parsley, mint, marjoram
• 15 oz ricotta
• 6 oz Parmesan (grated)
• 1–2 eggs
• 1 oz currants
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron to taste

Instructions

1. Make the Dough: Combine flour, salt, sugar, melted butter, and rosewater. Mix with warm water to form a smooth dough. Knead well, then rest covered for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the Filling: Wash and chop the greens and herbs. Sauté in butter until wilted. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor with cheeses, eggs, spices, and currants until a firm but scoopable filling forms.
3. Shape the Tortelletti: Roll pasta thin (second-to-last setting on a hand-cranked machine). Cut into squares or circles. Place small scoops of filling, fold and seal. Shape into tortelletti.
4. Cook: Boil in salted water (or broth) until they float — about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.
5. To Serve: Top with a light dusting of grated cheese, cinnamon, and sugar for an authentic Renaissance finish.

Regional Variations Across Italy

Though Scappi’s version is firmly rooted in Lombardy, filled herb pastas appear across Italy with regional twists. In Emilia‑Romagna, tortelli di erbette are filled with greens and ricotta, often served with sage‑butter. Tuscany offers tortelli maremmani, sometimes incorporating wild greens and nutmeg. Liguria features pansoti made with preboggion (a traditional wild herb mix) and walnut sauce. Each variant celebrates local herbs and fillings while preserving the form’s essential comfort and seasonality.

Notes from the Feast Table

At 12th Night 2024, these tortelletti were part of the Arrosto course with:

• Spit-roasted beef (brisket)
• Turkish squash dishes
• Sweet mustard sauce
• Gelo in bocconcini di più colori (jelly in small bites)

Want More from This Feast?

This recipe is just one part of our 12th Night 2024 Renaissance Feast, inspired by Scappi, Romoli, and the lavish January banquets of Renaissance Italy.

To see the full event menu and explore additional recipes as they’re released, visit the official feast page:

Flaming Gryphon 12th Night 2024 Feast Menu.

Looking for printable cards or a bundled feast pack? Support the project on Ko-fi and stay tuned for downloads!

Onion Pottage with French Bread and Cheese – Robert May’s 17th-Century Comfort Food

This rich, onion-based pottage was a hit during a lunch fundraiser at a SCA Collegium event, where it helped raise funds for Arts & Sciences in celebration of the SCA's 50th anniversary. Easy to prepare, completely meatless, and packed with deep, savory flavor, it's a classic piece of "tavern fare" that works beautifully for both period events and modern autumn or winter meals. The original recipe hails from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), a cornerstone text of early modern English cuisine.

Original Recipe (Historical Source):

"Fry good store of slic't onions, then have a pipkin of boiling liquor over the fire, when the liquor bils put in the fryed onions, butter and all, with pepper and salt: being well stewed together, serve in on sops of French bread."

— Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook (1660)

Modern Interpretation (Serves 4):

Ingredients:

• 3 tbsp olive oil
• ½ lb onions, peeled and sliced ¼" thick
• 4 cups vegetable stock (or broth of choice)
• 1 tsp salt
• ⅛ tsp black pepper
• Toasted French bread (for serving)
• Cheese (optional for serving)

Instructions:

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
2. Add sliced onions and sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden.
3. Meanwhile, bring the vegetable stock to a boil in a separate pot.
4. Add the sautéed onions, including the oil, to the boiling stock.
5. Reduce heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.
6. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. To serve, place toasted slices of French bread in bowls, ladle the hot onion broth over top, and add cheese if desired.

Feast/Event Notes:

This dish was one of several warm, filling options served during our Collegium fundraiser tavern lunch. As a vegetarian-friendly option, it was ideal for feeding a crowd. Easy to prepare in advance, it holds well when kept warm in a crockpot or kettle. Paired with rustic bread and cheese, it offers satisfying, stick-to-your-ribs nourishment.

Earlier Onion-Based Variations:

This recipe from The Accomplisht Cook reflects a later stage in the evolution of onion pottages; earlier forms also appear in medieval English manuscripts. For example, Harleian MS 279 (c. 1430) includes Soupe Dorroy, a richer onion soup thickened with egg yolks, and Oyle Soppys, a simpler version that uses oil and broth over toasted bread. These earlier dishes demonstrate how cooks adapted flavor, texture, and fat sources over time and across regions.

Historical Context & SCA Use:

Robert May trained in the kitchens of English nobility during the late Tudor and early Stuart periods. Although The Accomplisht Cook was published just after the SCA's traditional 1600 cut-off, it remains an essential source for "period-adjacent" fare, especially for those exploring the evolving foodways of late-period England.

May's recipes straddle medieval and modern tastes, capturing a unique culinary crossroads. This pottage exemplifies those characteristics: hearty, rustic, and comforting, yet straightforward and adaptable for contemporary kitchens.

📜 Note for SCA Context:

Many in the SCA community recognize this dish as a reliable choice for "late period" events, especially when authenticity is a priority. It showcases the shift in English cuisine from medieval traditions to more modern techniques, making it ideal for immersive experiences, educational demos, and fundraising taverns.

Context & Menu Placement

This onion pottage was served as the opening course of our Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern, a midday meal designed for easy service, rich flavor, and historical ambiance. The full menu featured a balance of meat, vegetarian options, and accessible ingredients, suited to both reenactors and newcomers.

Menu Highlights Included:

– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad
– Roasted Root Vegetables
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda

You can view the full event menu here.

Each dish was selected to reflect late-period culinary traditions while remaining practical for modern kitchen crews and feast planners.

Labels:

17th Century | Onion Dishes | Pottage | Robert May | Tavern Fare | SCA Fundraiser | Vegetarian Friendly

What’s New at Give It Forth – June 2025 Update

 

Hello friends and fellow food historians!

There’s a lot simmering in the Give It Forth kitchen these days, and I wanted to take a moment to share a few exciting updates, improvements, and sneak peeks of what’s cooking.

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🧭 Improved Navigation

We’ve overhauled the site navigation to make it easier to browse recipes, feast planning resources, and historical FAQs. Look for the new sidebar Pages menu, where you’ll find links to:

• Frequently Asked Questions

• Ounce to Tablespoon Conversion Guide

• Comfits and Historical Confections

• ...and more coming soon!

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🔧 Link Updates & SEO Fixes

We’ve been busy hunting down outdated links, broken redirects, and dusty corners of the blog. Many posts are now refreshed with working links, better indexing, and improved discoverability (because even medieval mustard deserves the spotlight).

If you’ve ever stumbled across a 404 or an archived page — don’t worry, we’re on it.

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💬 New FAQ Resources

The brand-new FAQ Page is live and loaded with answers to your most common questions:

• Cooking conversions (dry vs liquid)

• How to plan a medieval feast

• What’s a dayboard?

• Where I get my sources

• And yes... how to make comfits without losing your mind!

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🍴 Coming Soon on the Blog

Keep your eyes peeled — these historical recipes are headed your way in the next few weeks:

• Gelo in bocconcini di piu colori
  Jelly in small bites, of many colors – from Bartolomeo Scappi

• Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda
  Herb tortellini in the Lombard style – Scappi again!

• Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche
  A variety of Turkish squash dishes (Cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi)

• Salsa di Mostardo amabile
  Sweet mustard sauce – perfect for meats, roots, and the curious palate

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💡 Support the Project

If you’ve found joy, ideas, or research help here, consider supporting Give It Forth on Ko-fi:
☕ https://ko-fi.com/giveitforth

Thank you for being part of this delicious journey through the past. Stay tuned — and stay hungry!

Yours in herbs and humors,

Yonnie

Italian (Medieval) – Small Plates of Chestnuts in Embers (Domenico Romoli) (Piattelletti di maroni in bragia)

 

Something Sweet and Savory — Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia

Craving a taste of the Renaissance? Here's your ticket— piattelletti di maroni in bragia, or ember-roasted chestnuts, a Renaissance favorite brought to life using ancient cooking techniques for nuts preserved in historic manuscripts.. All it takes is a crackling fire, a bed of embers, and a dusting of sugar and salt. Simple, rustic, and surprisingly delicious.

Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia, which charmingly translates to “little chestnut cakes in the embers,” comes from La Singolare Dottrina, penned in 1560 by Domenico Romoli—better known as Panunto. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not a cake in the modern sense, but rather whole chestnuts nestled in hot ash or coals. And when finished with sugar, salt, and a hit of pepper? Absolute magic. You’ll be asking yourself how something so basic can taste so good.

A decade later, Bartolomeo Scappi featured a similar technique in his masterpiece Opera dell'arte del cucinare (1570)—a true treasure chest of culinary brilliance. Like Romoli, he was all about the ember-roasted chestnuts, but with an extra nudge of seasoning. Both men clearly understood that chestnuts, with just a little fire and flair, could steal the show.

Chestnuts were a staple in Italian kitchens during the 15th and 16th centuries, prized not just for their flavor but also for their versatility. Dishes ranged from sweet to savory, and cooks like Scappi and Romoli perfected techniques still worth learning today.

Romoli (1560) wrote of cooking chestnuts in embers to bring out their natural sweetness, while Scappi detailed "piattelletti", or small chestnut cakes, roasted or cooked directly in ashes or coals. These weren’t just rustic peasant fare—they were refined enough for noble tables during feast days and holidays.

“Maroni si cuociono nel bragia, et servano caldi sopra tovagliuoli bianchi.”
(Romoli, 1560)
“Chestnuts are cooked in embers and served warm on white linens.”

One of the many menu's featuring Chestnuts in Embers from La Singolare Dottrina

So, to keep this delicious bit of smoky history alive, I’ve got two ways you can make them: one straight out of the 16th century, and one fit for a modern stovetop. Fingers crossed I keep the ash to a minimum!

Historic Version: Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia

Ingredients:

• Fresh chestnuts

• Embers or ash

• Sugar

• Salt

• Pepper

Method:

1. Slice an X into the flat side of each chestnut. It’ll stop them from bursting and make peeling a lot easier.

2. Nestle them gently into warm embers—no direct flames, just cozy heat from the coals.

3. Let them roast 20–30 minutes, giving them a stir now and then for even cooking.

4. Pull them out and cool slightly. They're best peeled while still warm.

5. Sprinkle with sugar, salt, and cracked pepper while they’re still toasty.

That’s it. A smoky-sweet snack with just the right amount of warmth and rustic charm. It's a little time travel on a plate.

Modern Kitchen Version: Oven-Roasted Chestnuts with Sugar, Salt & Pepper

Ingredients:

• 1 lb fresh chestnuts

• 1 tbsp sugar

• 1/2 tsp kosher salt

• 1/4 tsp fresh black pepper

• Optional: a drizzle of olive oil or melted butter

Method:

1. Heat your oven to 425°F (220°C).

2. Score each chestnut with an X on the flat side.

3. Roast on a baking sheet for 20–25 minutes, until the shells curl back at the X.

4. Let them cool enough to handle, then peel.

5. Toss warm chestnuts with sugar, salt, pepper—and maybe a little butter or oil, if you’re feeling fancy.

Serve them warm, maybe with a glass of wine or cider. They’re just as welcome on a winter snack board as they are straight from the oven.

A Bit More on the Origins

Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina was more than a cookbook—it was a guide for noble households, covering everything from seasonal menus to food and health advice. Scappi’s Opera, written just ten years later, was the work of a papal chef—six volumes packed with over a thousand recipes and drawings. Where Romoli wrote with a steward’s insight, Scappi brought the precision and flair of a true culinary artist.

Together, they remind us how humble ingredients—like the chestnut—can become something extraordinary with a bit of care and creativity.

Final Thoughts: A Flavor Worth Reviving

Piattelletti di maroni in bragia reminds us that even the simplest ingredients—chestnuts and embers—can create something beautiful and deeply nostalgic. Whether you're drawn to historic Italian chestnut recipes or simply crave traditional chestnut recipes for fall, this ancient treat deserves a comeback.

Would I make these again? Absolutely. There's something so satisfying about cracking into a warm, roasted chestnut and tasting that perfect sweet-savory balance. So next time you see chestnuts at the market, take the leap—you might just discover your new favorite fall treat.

If you love diving into the past like I do, I highly recommend exploring these Renaissance cookbooks:

• 📖 Scappi’s Opera (1570) – full digitized version on archive.org

• 📖 Romoli’s La Singolar Dottrina (1560) – archived scans and translations

These works offer a window into a time when cooking was equal parts sustenance and spectacle.

Sources: 

La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico romoli Sopranominato Panonto dell’ufficio delle Scalco (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://www.google.com/books/edition/La_Singolare_Dottrina_di_M_Domenico_Romo/AiY6AAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=Piattelletti+di+maroni+in+bragia+ (Accessed: 11 April 2025).

The opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://books.google.com/books?id=oF2jsqrWtEkC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false (Accessed: 11 April 2025).

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Kitchen Adventures – Apples (Quince) stewed with pine nuts, rosewater and sugar - Chiquart / Domenico ((Italian) Mele cotogne, stufate pignoli con acqua rosa, & zuccaro)

 

Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati- To make pizza of many layers, commonly called a cold dry layered pastry. - Scappi & Mele cotogne, stufate pignoli con acqua rosa, & zuccaro - Apples (Quince) stewed with pine nuts, rosewater and sugar - Chiquart / Domenico prepared to be served.



Researching medieval cuisine is like stepping into a time machine. By reviving these historic recipes, we unearth culinary traditions that continue to surprise and inspire us today. One dish that stands out is Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa e Zuccaro—a unique blend of stewed Quince with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar. This dish is mentioned in many of the menus provided by M. Domenico, yet it seems to have slipped through the cracks without specific written instructions.

Naturally, I had to take on the challenge to recreate this intriguing sounding dish which was prepared for our Baronial 12th Night Celebration in 2024. As mentioned in previous posts, the menu for the event was drawn from M. Domenico's "Singular Doctrine", and more specifically his "Banquet of the Month of January. I cannot stress enough how much I enjoyed researching and then recreating dishes that woul dhave been enjoyed during this time.

The Singular Doctrine of M. Domenico is a 16th-century Italian culinary text that presents elaborate monthly menus, daily meal plans for morning and evening, a listing of common foods of the time, and instructions on the best ways to prepare them. However, while the text includes detailed menu listings, many of the actual recipes are absent. One such example is Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa, & Zuccaro, which appears in numerous menus but is never explicitly written out. The omission of these instructions suggests that certain preparations were considered basic knowledge among cooks of the period. This absence hints that stewed quince was a well-established culinary staple, so familiar that formal documentation of its preparation was deemed unnecessary.

To bring this dish back to life, I turned to a similar medieval recipe—Chiquart's Spiced Apples and Pears from On Cookery (1420). Chiquart was a 15th-century master cook who served at the court of Amadeus VIII, Duke of Savoy. He is best known for his work Du fait de cuisine (On Cookery), written in 1420, which provides one of the most detailed accounts of medieval European culinary practices. His text includes elaborate feast preparations, ingredient lists, and cooking techniques, offering insight into the refined and sometimes extravagant cuisine of noble households. His emphasis on spice blends, slow-cooked fruits, and carefully balanced flavors makes his work a valuable resource for understanding medieval gastronomy. His approach is an exemplary foundation for reviving Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa e Zuccaro. 

Recipe: Mele Cotogne, Stufate Pignoli con Acqua Rosa e Zuccaro Serves 4 to 8 

Ingredients

2 tbsp. butter

4 tart green apples / or quinces

4 tsp. sugar 

2 tsp. pine nuts

2 tsp. raisins

1/4 cup quince preserves 

1 tsp. Duke's Powder, or Apple or Pumpking Pie spices

Instructions:

1.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Butter a baking dish that is large enough to hold your apples (or quinces). Cut your quinces or apples in half, and remove the core.  The opening should be approximately 1 inch wide. 

2. Mix pine nuts with the spices.  Spoon sugar, pine nuts and raisins into each hole filling the apple or quince, and top with a bit more butter.  Pour water or wine into the bottom of the baking dish.  Sprinkle around any additional sugar, spices around the fruit.  If using apples, supplement with a generous helping of the quince preserves. 

3. Bake the fruit until the fruit is easily pierced by a knife approximately 45 minutes.  Sprinkle with rosewater. 

Please Note: This dish can be served warm or room temperature. If made ahead, it will need to be heated enough to melt the butter. Also note, pine nuts can be toasted before being mixed with the spices, but I chose not to do this. 

Results: 

I made this dish using apples because I was unable to locate quinces at the time.  You could also substitute pears, or a mix of apples and pears.  This dish is magical!  Fragrant of roses, apples, quince, the warm spices, sweet from the sugar, and crunchy from the pine nuts.  Using quince jelly when no quince are available enhances the apples natural tartness, while incorporating the period flavor that the original recipe calls for.  If you wish to, use a sweet Italian dessert wine instead of water to further enhance the dish.  

Sources: 

Friedman, David D., translator. Du fait de cuisine. 15th century. The David D. Friedman Medieval and Renaissance Cookbook Collection, www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/Du_fait_de_Cuisine.html. Accessed 24 Mar. 2025.

Romo, Domenico. La Singolare Dottrina Di M. Domenico Romano: Trattato di cucina del '500. 1st ed., 2002. Google Books, books.google.com/books/about/La_Singolare_Dottrina_Di_M_Domenico_Romo.html?hl=it&id=FGFWAAAAcAAJ. Accessed 24 Mar. 2025.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.