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Showing posts with label Lenten Dishes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lenten Dishes. Show all posts

Feasting on Fish: Five Historical Recipes from Harleian MS 279

Five Medieval Fish Recipes from Harleian MS 279

A bowl of medieval fish stew (Iuselle of Fish) in a yellow broth, served with crusty bread, lemon slices, apples, and a root vegetable salad.
Iuselle of Fish, adapted from Harleian MS 279 — a delicate almond milk and saffron broth served with root vegetables, fruit, and rustic bread.

From fasting feasts to Friday fare, fish played a key role in medieval English cooking. Harleian Manuscript 279, compiled around 1430, contains dozens of fish recipes revealing the rich, layered flavors and creative preparations used in upper-class kitchens. Below are five standout dishes from that manuscript, all adapted or interpreted for the modern cook.

1. Tench Three Ways

Read the full recipe and interpretation

This unique entry shows off the versatility of medieval fish cookery. The tench is served boiled, in a broth, and roasted — each with different sauces or seasonings, ranging from parsley-based green sauce to a pottage enriched with almond milk and spices.

2. Mortrews of Fish

Read the full recipe and interpretation

Here, fish is cooked and then pounded smooth with breadcrumbs and flavorful ingredients like almond milk, saffron, and sugar. Served warm and thick, this dish is a satisfying meatless main and an excellent example of medieval texture-forward cooking.

3. Sturyon in Broth

Read the full recipe and interpretation

This spiced broth balances vinegar, pepper, and saffron to create a sharp yet warming sauce for chunks of fish — originally sturgeon, but modern substitutions like salmon or cod work just as well.

4. Iuschelle of Fish

Read the full recipe and interpretation

“Iuschelle” refers to a gently spiced dish, somewhere between a stew and a sauce. The fish is flaked and simmered in almond milk, saffron, and breadcrumbs, yielding a light but elegant presentation that fits well as a first course.

5. Roseye – Fish in Rose Sauce

Read the full chicken version (fish variation included)

Although your blog post features the chicken version, the original recipe allows for fish as well. The dish combines fried fish with a saffron-almond-rose sauce colored naturally with rose petals. It’s a fragrant, subtly sweet, and visually stunning dish — perfect for a final course or Lenten feast.

Historical Context

Harleian MS 279 reflects the dietary rules and creativity of the 15th-century English court. With meat forbidden during fast days, cooks leaned into fish, legumes, and dairy alternatives like almond milk. The use of fragrant spices, vinegars, and herbal sauces made these dishes anything but bland — and many remain surprisingly approachable for the modern table.

Want to Try One?

Leave a comment or tag me if you cook one of these! For printable versions, check out the recipe cards on Ko-fi. You can also browse other fasting-friendly or Lenten dishes using the tags at the bottom of each post.




🐚 More Historical Shellfish Recipes

Explore more Fish Recipes and Fasting Dishes on the blog.

Sources: Harleian MS 279, Curye on Inglysch, Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books

A Potage of Roysons – Medieval Apple and Raisin Rice Porridge (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) – Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons – Rice Porridge with Apples and Raisins

🥕 Includes Dietary Notes!

Today's recipe adventure from the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab 1430) explores Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons, a gentle almond-milk-based pottage thickened with rice flour and dotted with apples and raisins.

This dish would likely have appeared during the pottage course of a medieval meal — possibly served warm with bread during Lent or in the infirmary for the ailing. Its flavor is mild, lightly sweetened with fruit, and comforting. I served this version at an SCA breakfast event, and it went over well, though some testers called it “tasty, but not delicious.” And honestly? Same. I’ve made similar recipes that were more complex — perhaps I’m just still not a fan of raisins.

Original Recipe and Modern Translation
Original Middle English (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430) Modern English Translation
Cxxxvj. A potage of Roysons.—Take Raysonys, & do a-way þe kyrnellys; & take a part of Applys, & do a-way þe corys, & þe pare, & bray hem in a mortere, & temper hem with Almande Mylke, & melle hem with flowre of Rys, þat it be clene chargeaunt, & straw vppe-on pouder of Galyngale & of Gyngere, & serue it forth. Take raisins and remove the seeds. Take some apples, remove the cores and peel them. Mash them in a mortar, and mix them with almond milk. Stir in rice flour until the mixture is thick. Sprinkle with powdered galangal and ginger, and serve.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8)

Ingredients

  • 4 apples, peeled, cored, and diced
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 8 cups almond milk
  • 1/2 cup honey (optional, to taste)
  • 1 cup rice flour
  • 2 tsp ginger (or period Good Powder blend)
  • 1/2 tsp salt

Instructions

  1. Warm almond milk with honey and ginger in a large pot.
  2. Add apples and raisins. Simmer gently until the fruit softens, about 10–15 minutes.
  3. Whisk in rice flour and stir continuously until it thickens like porridge.
  4. Stir in salt. Garnish with ginger or galangal powder if desired. Serve warm.

The Role of Raisins in Medieval Cooking

Raisins were frequently used in medieval recipes—not just for desserts, but to enrich and sweeten savory dishes as well. They appear in pottages, sauces, pies, and even stews, often alongside almond milk and rice flour. Their inclusion helped balance humors and added perceived nourishment to lean or fast-day meals.

Cooking Method: What “Temper” Might Mean

The original recipe uses the term “temper hem with Almande Mylke,” which may imply either blending or gradual heating. I chose to warm the almond milk with honey and ginger, then cook the fruit in it gently before adding the rice flour to thicken. This method draws out more flavor from the raisins and apple while creating a smooth, creamy texture.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions:
This dish is naturally vegan and gluten-free if prepared with certified rice flour and almond milk.
  • For a vegan version: Use maple or date syrup in place of honey.
  • Nut-free option: Substitute oat or rice milk for almond milk.
  • Camp cooking tip: Premix powdered almond milk, rice flour, and ginger. Add dried apples and raisins on-site with water and heat to serve.
  • Texture tweak: Blend the apple and raisins before cooking for a smoother porridge.
🔎 Looking for Similar Recipes?
If you enjoyed A Potage of Roysons, you might also like these other fruit- and almond-based dishes from the same manuscript:

Applade Ryalle – A Medieval Apple Soup Three Ways (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

.Cxxxv. Applade Ryalle — Prepared for Nede, Flesshe Day, and Fysshe Day

Today's adventure in cooking from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) was Applade Ryalle, loosely interpreted as "Royal Apple" or "Apple Royal." It includes instructions for producing three vastly different flavored soups using the same base. The soups are made with beef broth (for a flesh day), almond milk (for a fish day), and "in need" with a broth made of wine and honey. The base of the soup is quite simple: apples that have been boiled until tender (read: falling apart) and then strained through a strainer.

🍽️ Where Could This Be Served at Feast?

Option Reasoning Notes
🥣 First Remove (Pottage) Classic sweet pottage with period consistency and spice blend Ideal with bread or savory pies
🍷 Welcome Drink The wine/honey version mimics a warm cordial or broth Serve in mugs or small bowls
🍽️ Entrée Companion Adds contrast to roasted meats or cheese boards Best served thicker, like a sauce

I made all three of the soups today and the taste testers (God bless them) tried each of them. We all agreed that the soup "in need" and the soup for a fish day were the better of the recipes. The house smelled like fall, with the ginger, cinnamon, apples, and wine scenting the air. Of the apple recipes I have interpreted, this is by far my favorite. Creating a variety of soups fit for a king! Huzzah!

The Applade Ryalle for a flesh (meat) day was pleasant, and if I had cooked just this I think the testers' opinions would have been a bit different. I, being unsure if I would like it, cooked it last—my mistake. The flavor of the apples was sharpened by the beef broth, so that I was reminded of eating a sour apple candy (which I like). This soup was good, but all of us decided that this might fall under the category of "too period to serve." Don't get me wrong—it was flavorful, and you should try it. However, the taste won't be for everyone, and the testers were put off by the smell of the apples and beef broth. Once they ate the first spoonful, it was a race to see who finished first.

The Applade Ryalle for a fish day received rave reviews. The soup was creamy and mild and delicious. What most of the taste testers remarked on first was that they could taste the spices used, and that the almond milk enhanced that, and then they tasted a hint of the apple and a hint of the almonds. It was really good and has made it onto my list of things to serve more often in the house. Yes, it will become something I will serve to my non-SCA friends. This was voted best dish of the day, but I disagree... because my favorite was the next dish!

The Applade Ryalle "in need" is a lovely soup with a base of wine and honey. The wine and the apples explode in your mouth on the first spoonful, and then the honey peeks through along with the spices. It was decided that this goes on the "must be served at a future event" list, alongside some good crusty bread, cheese, and smoked pork. Have I mentioned I have great taste testers???

.Cxxxv. Applade Ryalle.—Take Applys, & seþe hem tylle þey ben tendyr, & þan lat hem kele; þen draw hem þorw a straynour; & on flesshe day caste þer-to gode fatte broþe of freysshe beef, an whyte grece, & Sugre, & Safroun, & gode pouder; & in a Fysshe day, take Almaunde mylke, & oyle of Olyff, & draw þer-vppe with-al a gode pouder, & serue forth. An for nede, draw it vppe with Wyne, & a lytil hony put þer-to for to make it þan dowcet; & serue it forth.

Cxxxv - Applade Ryalle. Take Applys, and sethe hem tylle they ben tendyr, and than lat hem kele; then draw hem thorw a straynour; and on flesh day caste ther-to gode fatte brothe of freysshe beef, an whyte grece, and Sugre, and Safroun, and gode pouder; and in a Fysshe day, take Almaunde mylke, and oyle of Olyff, and draw ther-vppe with-al a gode pouder, and serue forth. An for nede, draw it vppe with Wyne, and a lytil hony put ther-to for to make it than dowcet; and serue it forth.

135. Apple Royal – Take apples and seethe them until they be tender and then let them cool; then draw them through a strainer; and on flesh day cast thereto good fat broth of fresh beef and white grease, and sugar and saffron, and good powder; and on a fish day, take almond milk, and olive oil, and draw there up with a good powder and serve forth. And for need, draw it up with wine, and a little honey put there to for to make it than sweet and serve it forth.

Interpreted Recipe – Serves 8

  • 6–8 apples
  • Water to cover
  • 4 cups broth, wine, or almond milk
  • 1/3 cup sugar or honey (adjust to taste)
  • 1 tbsp. powder douce
  • 2 tbsp. butter or olive oil (optional)
  • Pinch of saffron (optional)

Today I cut the apples into large chunks and placed them into the pot—I did not core or peel them. I covered them with water and allowed them to boil until tender and the water was almost gone. I then put the apples into the food processor (yay for modern technology) and puréed them, then strained them into a bowl. I used my last seven orchard-picked apples today. If you're skipping this step, use approximately 1 1/2 cups of unsweetened applesauce per 2 cups of broth, wine, or almond milk.

I added the powder douce to the apple purée while hot and mixed it in, rather than cooking it in the liquid base. I omitted the saffron this round.

For each soup variation, I heated the liquid base with sugar or honey as appropriate (honey for "in need," sugar for flesh and fish days). I also added the "grease" — in this case, butter or olive oil — to the flesh and fish day recipes before stirring in the puréed and spiced apple. I cooked the mixtures together until they reduced to the consistency I wanted, then served them hot.

You might think these soups would be too thin and need a thickener, but I suspect that leaving the skins on allowed more pectin to remain with the soup. If your version seems too thin, period thickeners like breadcrumbs, rice flour, or egg yolks can help — just be sure to strain before serving for a smooth finish.

Similar Recipes

  • MS Royal 12.C.xii (England/France, 1340): Poumes ammolee – Wine, eggs, wheat flour, and apples, thickened and sweetened.
  • Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334] (England, 1425): Appeluns for a lorde – Apples boiled and puréed, with vernage wine, egg yolks, sugar, and rosewater.
  • A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468): Appillinose – Apples with almond milk or broth, saffron, sugar, and spices.
  • The Neapolitan Recipe Collection (Italy, 15th c.): Applesauce – Cooked apples, almond milk, rosewater, sugar, and spices, served thick.