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Showing posts with label Potage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Potage. Show all posts

Papyns – A Medieval Custard Cereal from Harleian MS. 279

Papyns with Bread

Papyns is one of those dishes that defies expectations. Often lumped in with bland “pap” given to infants, this 15th-century recipe from Harleian MS. 279 is anything but boring. The result? A velvety custard-like porridge that tastes like warm comfort on a spoon. Think cream of wheat meets crème anglaise — but make it medieval.

This was a dish for those who couldn’t chew — infants, invalids, and the elderly — but also a nourishing and soothing food when other options weren’t available. Made with flour, milk, egg yolks, and sugar, it was a soft standby, rich and smooth without lumps. And yes, it’s delicious with a slice of crusty bread dunked in.

Historical Notes

Wet nursing was preferred by noble households from ancient times through the Renaissance. In the absence of breastmilk, babies were weaned early onto pap made from animal milk, bread, or grain porridge sweetened with honey or wine. Unfortunately, without refrigeration or pasteurization, milk quality varied wildly — and foodborne illness was a real risk. Despite that, this dish endured as both comfort food and survival sustenance.

Original Text (Harleian MS. 279)

xx. Papyns.—Take fayre Mylke an Flowre, an drawe it þorw a straynoure, an set it ouer þe fyre, an let it boyle a-whyle; þan take it owt an let it kele; þan take ȝolkys of eyroun y-draw þorwe a straynour, an caste þer-to; þan take sugre a gode quantyte, and caste þer-to, an a lytil salt, an sette it on þe fyre tyl it be sum-what þikke, but let it nowt boyle fullyche, an stere it wyl, an putte it on a dysshe alle a-brode, and serue forth rennyng.

Interpreted Recipe – Serves 8

Ingredients
  • 3 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup cream
  • 6 tablespoons flour
  • 4 eggs (or 8 yolks)
  • 6–8 tablespoons sugar, to taste
  • 1–2 teaspoons salt, to taste

Instructions

  1. Make a slurry with the flour and 1.5 cups of the milk. Shake well in a lidded jar, then strain into a saucepan. Add remaining milk and cream.
  2. Heat gently until thickened, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
  3. Beat the eggs. Temper with a bit of the warm mixture, then slowly add to the pan, stirring constantly. Add sugar and salt.
  4. Return to low heat and stir until thickened but not boiling. Serve warm, strained again if needed for extra smoothness.

Serving Suggestions

Serve in shallow bowls with slices of fresh or toasted bread. Not ideal for large feast crowds — but excellent for dayboard, luncheons, or cold mornings at camp with instant ingredients.

💡 Substitutions & Dietary Notes

  • Vegetarian: Yes
  • Vegan: No, but you could experiment with oat milk and egg replacers like JUST Egg or silken tofu custard (untested)
  • Gluten-Free: Use rice flour or oat flour
  • Camping Option: Use powdered milk, powdered eggs, sugar, and water. Mix with a whisk and cook low and slow over flame.
  • Common Allergens: Dairy, Egg, Gluten (can be adapted)

Similar Recipes

Soupes Jamberlayne: Sops of Bread in Mulled Wine (Harleian MS. 279, ~1430)

Kitchen Adventures – Soupes Jamberlayne: Sops of Bread in Mulled Wine (Harleian MS. 279, ~1430)

Soupes Jamberlayne – A Toasty, Spiced Bread & Wine Potage

Soupes Jamberlayne, also known as Sops Chamberlain, is a strikingly simple yet elegant medieval dish consisting of toasted bread soaked in sweetened, spiced wine. Served warm and finished with a dusting of "white powder" (likely Powder Douce or sugar), it walks the line between a drinkable porridge and a spoonable dessert.

This dish hails from the Harleian MS. 279 (~1430) and is a wonderful candidate for both feast tables and historical breakfast spreads. In fact, we had it incorrectly described on our What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages? page — it is not a porridge of grain and greens, but a warming wine potage! Perfect for chilly mornings or late suppers.

Its ease and flexibility make it a terrific option when you need a fast, flavorful, and filling dish for your table. Bonus: It’s delicious with leftover bread like Rastons.

The Original Source

From: Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books

.xxviij. Soupes Jamberlayne [Chamberlain] – Take Wyne, Canel, an powder of Gyngere, an Sugre, an of eche a porcyoun, þan take a straynoure & hange it on a pynne, an caste ale þer-to, an let renne twyis or þryis throgh, tyl it renne clere; an þen take Paynemaynne an kyt it in maner of brewes, an toste it, an wete it in þe same lycowre, an ley it on a dysshe, an caste blawnche powder y-now þer-on; an þan caste þe same lycour vp-on þe same soppys, an serue hem forth in maner of a potage.

Interpreted Recipe (Serves 8 as Side)

  • 2 cups red wine (something fruity like Hunter Red)
  • 1 tbsp cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp ginger
  • 1 tbsp sugar (or more to taste)
  • 1 loaf toasted white bread (like Rastons), cut into finger-length strips
  • Powder Douce or sugar for garnish

Instructions:

  1. Combine the wine, cinnamon, ginger, and sugar in a pot and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
  2. While the wine heats, toast the bread and slice into finger-sized strips.
  3. Optional: Strain the wine mixture through cheesecloth 2–3 times to clarify.
  4. Briefly dip toasted bread strips into the wine mixture. Lay in bowls or a serving dish.
  5. Pour more of the hot wine over the sops and sprinkle generously with Powder Douce or sugar.

Note: Avoid oversoaking the bread or it may fall apart. For presentation, consider layering the bread after pouring the wine.

Tasting Notes

This dish is remarkably comforting — reminiscent of mulled wine and French toast. The spices accentuate the wine’s fruitiness, while the bread provides body and texture. It’s easy to imagine this being a nobleman’s breakfast or a light late-night supper in colder months.

Try serving this at a feast breakfast or during a winter revel. It can also double as a simple medieval dessert.

#medievalfood #scafeast #scacook #historicfood #harleianMS279 #medievalbreakfast #breadandwine