This dish was featured in the Arrosto Course at our 12th Night feast—a hearty Renaissance soup using “Turkish squash,” adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Secondo libro (Chapter 220).
The Singular Doctrine (La Singolare Dottrina) of Domenico Romoli offers a unique window into Renaissance feast planning. This early 16th-century treatise provides monthly banquet menus, richly detailed with courses designed for specific occasions, balancing seasonality, variety, and symbolic meaning.
The January Banquet Menu — Morning Service
The 12th Night menu was inspired by Romoli’s January banquet for twenty-four guests, served with three “choppers” (set meals). His detailed menu for January includes a fascinating array of dishes, highlighting seasonal ingredients, complex preparation techniques, and artistic presentation:
- Zambella Biscotta and Berlingozzo Fresco: Traditional breads served with the bread service
- Pignoccate and Ciambellette Dorate: Specialty fried dough and donuts
- Marzapani Frigiati di Oro: Golden fried marzipan sweets
- Carniscioni a Figure: Decorative savory pastries
- Morselletti di Napoli: Biscuit-like specialties from Naples
- Bericocoli di Siena: Traditional sweet dishes paired with wine
...and many more including stewed fruits, meat dishes, and elegant roast preparations.
Understanding the Singular Doctrine Recipe and Feast Structure
The Singular Doctrine as articulated by M. Domenico Romoli nicknamed Panunto presents Renaissance recipes and feasts as flexible, technique-focused guides rather than strict formulas.
- Seasonal and Monthly Organization: Menus are tailored to the ingredients available in each month, ensuring freshness and harmony with nature.
- Course and Service Sequencing: Detailed breakdowns guide the flow of dishes—from breads and sweets to roasts and fruits—designed for balanced pacing and presentation.
- Implicit Ingredient Listings: Ingredients are often embedded in the instructions rather than separately listed, reflecting the expectation of experienced cooks to understand proportions and techniques.
- Emphasis on Technique and Adaptability: Recipes emphasize process and sensory cues, encouraging cooks to adapt based on local availability and personal judgment rather than rigid measurements.
This method contrasts with modern recipe writing but reveals a rich tradition of culinary artistry where the cook’s skill and intuition were central.
Connecting Romoli’s Doctrine to Our 12th Night Feast
The 12th Night feast drew inspiration from Romoli’s doctrine, blending historical authenticity with practical adaptations:
- Incorporating Scappi’s Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche (Turkish squash soup) as a seasonal, hearty dish
- Featuring breads and sweets like Pani di Latte e zucchero & brazzatelle to honor traditional bread services
- Using detailed recipes from historic sources linked to Romoli’s dishes (pignoccate, marzipan sweets, and more)
This layered approach enriches both our culinary exploration and educational storytelling.
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro, Cap. CCXX)
Original Historic Recipe (Italian)
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche, cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi
Piglisi la zucca Turchesca nella sua stagione, la qual comincia dal mese di Ottobre & dura per tutto Aprile, & nette che sara della scorza & degl'interiori taglisi in pezzi, & facciasi perlessare, & perlessata che sarattasi con li coltelli, & facciasi cuocere in buon brodo di carne, & marinisi con cascio grattato, & uove sbattute, & si potrࠡncho accommodare con le cipolle nel modo che si accommoda la nostrale sudetta.
Avvertendo che se la zucca sara soda, sara molto migliore, & per conservarla ha da stare in loco asciutto, & arioso, & non ha da esserre busciata in loco alcuno, percioche l'aria la sarebbe putrefare, in questo modo le si potrare scorze secche delle zucche Savonese dope saranno perlessate in acqua caldo & state in ammollo in acqua fredda.
Modern English Translation
To make various dishes with Turkish squash, Chapter 220, 2nd book, Scappi:
Take the Turkish squash in its season, which begins in October and lasts through April. Clean it of its skin and innards. Cut it into pieces and parboil it. Once parboiled, chop it finely with a knife and cook it in good meat broth. Thicken and enrich it with grated cheese and beaten eggs. One can also prepare it with onions in the same manner as our native squash as described above.
Be aware that if the squash is firm, it will be much better. To store them, keep in a dry and airy place without any holes because air will cause them to rot. In this way, one can make dried skins of Savonese squash after parboiling in hot water and soaking in cold water.
Historical Context and Zucchini Substitution
The “zucca Turchesca” referred to by Scappi was likely a firm winter squash, such as the “zucca mantovana,” prized for its texture and storability. For our modern adaptation, we used zucchini, a summer squash, which offers a lighter texture and fresher flavor.
While zucchini cooks faster and has more moisture than winter squash, it still captures the essence of the historic dish and allows us to honor Renaissance cooking with available produce.
Modern Adaptation: Roasted Zucchini Parmesan Soup
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Yield: Serves 4–6
Ingredients
- 3 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
- 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- Cracked black pepper, to taste
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only (about 1–2 tablespoons)
- 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
- 4 cups good quality meat broth (beef or veal preferred)
- 2 beaten eggs (optional, for enrichment)
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional, for onion variation)
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
- Arrange zucchini wedges on a baking sheet or shallow dish. Season evenly with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Dot with butter and sprinkle rosemary leaves.
- Roast uncovered for 20–30 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized, checking after 20 minutes.
- Meanwhile, bring broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot.
- Remove zucchini from oven. Add to broth, chopping roughly or pureeing for a smoother texture.
- If using, stir in beaten eggs slowly while gently stirring to prevent curdling. Add onions if desired and simmer gently until softened.
- Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Notes and Tips
- Zucchini’s softer texture means a shorter roasting time than winter squash.
- Egg enrichment echoes Scappi’s original instructions, adding richness.
- For a heartier version, consider adding root vegetables or using winter squash.
- Use a good-quality meat broth for depth, or substitute vegetable broth for a lighter soup.
Historical Background: Squash in Renaissance Italy
The “zucca Turchesca” (Turkish squash) referenced by Scappi likely denotes a type of winter squash introduced to Europe following the Columbian exchange, though some squash species may have arrived earlier via Mediterranean trade routes.
Squash Varieties of the Period:
- Early Italian cookbooks mention firm-fleshed winter squashes, similar in texture to what we now call “savoy” or “marrow” squash, prized for their storage qualities.
- The text’s emphasis on firm texture and dry, airy storage conditions reflects an understanding of preserving winter squash for extended use through the cold months.
- Italian regional varieties such as the “zucca mantovana” (Mantua squash), known for its thick flesh and mild flavor, or other local heirlooms may have been used.
- The term “Turkish” possibly refers to the exotic origin or the shape/color resembling melons or gourds traded from the Ottoman regions.
Scappi’s recommendation to parboil, chop finely, and cook in rich meat broth with grated cheese and beaten eggs reflects Renaissance tastes for combining local ingredients with culinary sophistication.
Bringing Renaissance Flavors to Your Table
Exploring historical recipes like Scappi’s Turkish squash soup offers a delicious way to connect with the culinary traditions of the Renaissance. Whether you choose to follow the original instructions or adapt with modern ingredients, you’re participating in a rich tapestry of food history.
We invite you to try this recipe, experiment with the flavors, and share your experiences. Cooking history is as much about creativity as it is about preservation.
For more historical recipes and feast inspiration, check out these related posts:
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Happy cooking and buon appetito!
References
- Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
- Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
- Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.
