Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth

Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth (Redon, 1998)

“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese — used here as period context for a Renaissance table.

Context & Notes

Fava fresche con brodo di carne is a rustic Renaissance preparation: fresh spring fava beans briefly simmered in meat broth, enriched with a little cured pork, and finished with parsley and mint. The technique keeps the beans tender while letting a few split to lightly thicken the broth.

Seasonality & status: Fava beans were among the first fresh foods after Lent and signaled the turn from winter storage fare to spring produce. Courtly kitchens “elevated” this staple through refined broth, measured cooking, and aromatic herbs—much as spices elevate simple noodles in De lasanis.

Broth choice: Chicken broth reads lighter and more restorative for warmer weather; beef broth is heartier and “strengthening.” Either appears in period practice depending on the season and desired effect.

Humoral Notes (with pork nuance)

Fava beans: generally cold & moist.
Pork: fresh pork was classed as cold & moist and heavy; salted/cured pork (pancetta, salt belly) was thought to gain warming/drying qualities from salt and smoke—still rich, but more balancing when used sparingly.
Herbs: parsley and mint are warming/aromatic correctives.
Broth: chicken leans lighter; beef leans more warming/fortifying.

Thus this dish pairs a cold/moist base (beans) with modest warming elements (cured pork, hot broth, herbs) to arrive at a comfortable middle course—similar to how spices balanced the cheese-and-pasta profile in De lasanis.

Side-by-Side: Original (Redon, 1998) & Modern Notes

Original (Redon, 1998)

Ingredients: 2 cups beef or chicken broth (or mix), 4½ lb fresh fava beans, 4 oz salt pork belly or pancetta, 1 Tbsp chopped parsley & mint; salt.

Method: Shell beans; blanch briefly (5 seconds), refresh, peel. Dice pork. Simmer broth, beans, and pork ~10 minutes until beans begin to break. Add herbs; return to a brief boil. Salt to taste and serve.

Modern Adaptation – What’s Different?

• Yield clarity: 4½ lb in-pod ≈ ~1 lb shelled beans.
• Texture cue: “Begin to break” = lightly thickened broth, not mashed.
• Herb timing: Herbs added at the end to keep flavors vivid.
• Pork form matters: Pancetta/salt pork (cured) used in small amount for savor and humoral balance.
• Broth intent: Chicken for lighter tables; beef for heartier service.

Scappi’s Minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche (1570, Libro III, #249)

Per far minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche:

Piglinosi i piselli o baccelli, sgraninosi, & ponganosi in un uaso con oglio d’oliue, sale, & pepe, & faccianosi soffriggere pian piano, aggiungendovi tanta acqua tinta di zafferano, che stiano coperti di due dita, & come saranno poco men che cotti, pestisene una parte nel mortaro, e stemperisi con il medesimo brodo, & mettasi nel uaso con una branchata d’herbuccie battute, e faccianosi levare il bollo, e servanosi caldi.

 Translation (modern English):

“Take peas or broad beans, shell them, and put them in a pot with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Let them sauté gently, adding in enough water, colored with saffron, to cover them by about two fingers. When they are a little less than cooked, pound part of them in a mortar and dilute that with the same broth; return it to the pot with a handful of chopped herbs, bring it all to a boil, and serve it hot.”

🍲 Modern Recipe

Serves: 4 • Active: 20 min • Total: ~30 min

Ingredients

• 2 cups (480 ml) beef or chicken broth (or 50/50 mix)
• 4½ lb (about 2 kg) fresh fava beans in pod (≈ 1 lb / 450 g shelled)
• 4 oz (115 g) salt pork belly or pancetta, finely diced
• 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 Tbsp fresh mint, chopped
• Kosher salt, to taste

Method

1. Prep beans: Shell. Blanch 5 seconds in boiling water, refresh in cold water, slip off the outer skins.
2. Simmer: In a saucepan, combine broth, diced pork, and beans. Bring to a boil, reduce to a lively simmer, and cook about 10 minutes, until beans just begin to soften and a few split to lightly thicken the broth.
3. Finish: Stir in parsley and mint; return to a brief boil (30–60 seconds). Season with salt and serve hot.

🔍 Scappi’s Renaissance Version (1570)

In Opera (Libro III, #249), Scappi prepares fresh peas or broad beans by gently sautéing them in olive oil with salt and pepper, adding saffron-tinted water to cover, then pounding a portion to thicken before finishing with chopped herbs and a brief boil.

“Take peas or broad beans, shell them, and put them in a pot with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Sauté gently, add enough saffron-colored water to cover by two fingers. When just underdone, pound part of them with the same broth, return to the pot with a handful of chopped herbs, bring to a boil, and serve hot.”

Why it matters: Scappi’s technique—partial purée, saffron infusion, hot herb finish—shows the same courtly refinement and humoral balance as our version: a cold/moist base (beans) corrected by warming elements (olive oil/saffron or, in Redon’s adaptation, cured pork and broth).

🌱 Fava Beans in Renaissance Feasts: Beyond the Soup Pot

1. Seasonal & Symbolic Role

• Springtime signal: Fresh favas (fave novelle) were among the first green vegetables of the year after the long winter and Lenten fasting. Their arrival marked renewal, fertility, and abundance — an edible herald of spring.
• Festal symbolism: In Italy, beans had associations with fertility and rebirth. They were often planted around feast days (especially St. Joseph’s Day in March), and dishes of beans could appear at communal meals tied to seasonal celebrations.

2. Culinary Uses in Feasts

• Pottages & broths: Most common at court — boiled with herbs, broth, pork, or oil (as in Redon/Scappi’s versions). They provided a filling, comforting “wet dish” for the second course.
• Purees: Scappi frequently thickened broths or created side dishes by pounding a portion of the beans. This gave variety in texture and aligned with elite tastes for smooth, refined preparations.
• Side accompaniments: Favas could be served with meat, often pork or mutton, as a cheap protein extender and humoral counterbalance.
• Lenten adaptations: Without meat, they might be prepared with oil, saffron, and herbs — still satisfying but acceptable during fast days.

3. Humoral & Medical Considerations

• Humoral qualities: Cold & moist. Physicians warned they were heavy to digest and could cause flatulence if eaten in excess.
• Correctives: Cooking with salt, pork, oil, or warming herbs like mint and parsley was thought to “lighten” them, making them safer for the stomach.
• Dietary prescriptions: Favas were often recommended for the working poor for strength but taken in moderation by elites. In courtly kitchens, refinement (skinning, pounding, spicing) made them suitable for noble digestion.

4. Cultural & Social Dimensions

• Peasant vs. elite divide: Beans were a staple of peasant diets, but when transformed with broth, pork, saffron, or fine herbs, they crossed into noble cuisine. This dual identity made them ideal for “bridging” courses in feasts.
• Religious associations: Favas had an odd role in funerary traditions in some parts of Europe (linked with the dead and All Souls’ Day). In Italy, fava-based sweets (fave dei morti) are still tied to this tradition — showing the bean’s symbolic reach beyond daily food.
• Feast planning logic: For a steward, fava dishes were economical, seasonal, and versatile. They stretched meat supplies, added color and variety to courses, and showed seasonal awareness — all important in demonstrating a host’s refinement.

🍽 Menu Placement (Feast Planning)

• Dish Type: Pottage (a “wet” course served in or with broth)
• Course: Second course (Pottage course). Because beans digest heavy in some frameworks, serve moderate portions or as a remove between roasts.
• Service tips: Offer trenchers or bread to soak up the savory broth.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions

• Gluten-free.
• Pork-free: Swap in smoked turkey or omit meat and add 1–2 Tbsp olive oil for body.
• Vegetarian: Use vegetable broth; finish with a knob of butter or extra-virgin olive oil.

📚 Sources

• Redon, 1998 (adaptation as provided).
• Period dietetic summaries consulted for general fresh vs. cured meat distinctions and bean qualities.

🏷 Labels

• Browse by Dish Type: Pottage
• Browse by Ingredient: Legumes, Pork, Herbs
• Browse by Use: Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Humoral Theory
• Browse by Era: Renaissance, Italian

📖 This recipe is part of the Ceilidh 2001 – Fourteenth-Century Italian Feast .
Explore all dishes from this reconstructed 14th-century Italian banquet.

Italian Renaissance Spit Roasted Beef made with Salted Brisket & Served with Sweet Mustard Sauce from Scappi

Animal detail from medieval illuminated manuscript, British Library Harley MS 3244, 1236-c 1250, f47r

Arrosta — the grand roast course of a Renaissance feast — was far more than just meat on a spit. In Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), the arrosta included an impressive variety: spit-roasted meats, braised vegetables, elegant sauces, pasta, and even colorful jellies. This was the third course of our 12th Night 2024 feast, following the Alesso course. It showcased the depth of Italian Renaissance cooking, balancing hearty dishes with refined accompaniments.

For this feast, we adapted Scappi’s recipes for a modern feast kitchen, using brisket in place of a full rack of beef ribs, seasonal vegetables, and accessible modern cooking methods — without losing the rich flavors of the originals.

Historical Context: The Arrosta in Renaissance Dining

Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to several Popes, published his monumental cookbook in 1570. His work captures both grand courtly dining and practical Lenten fare. The arrosta course was often the centerpiece of a meal, designed to impress guests with skill, abundance, and variety. Alongside the expected roasts, Scappi included vegetable dishes, pasta, and desserts, showing the Renaissance love for balanced and abundant tables.

In Renaissance banquet tradition, the arrosta — literally “roast” — was more than a single dish. It was a set course, positioned after the boiled meats (al lesso) and before the final sweets, and served as a showcase for the host’s wealth, skill, and access to prime ingredients. In Italian and broader European practice, this course could include not only spit-roasted meats, but also fried, grilled, and baked dishes, as well as richly sauced accompaniments.

Theory of Digestion and Humoral Balance

The Renaissance kitchen did not operate solely on taste — it was deeply influenced by the Galenic theory of digestion. According to this model, digestion happened in stages, with foods progressing from lighter and moister to heavier and drier as the meal went on. Roasted meats were considered among the “drier” preparations, especially when spit-roasted over open flame, which was thought to reduce their innate moisture. Without correction, such dishes were believed to tax the body and cause imbalance in the humors, particularly in those of “dry” constitution.

To make these roasts more healthful and digestible, period cooks paired them with moistening sauces — sweet, tart, or spiced — that counterbalanced dryness. This is why Renaissance cookbooks, including Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera (1570), often present roast recipes alongside multiple sauce preparations. In our feast, this principle is reflected in the Salsa di Mostardo amabile (sweet mustard sauce) and the walnut-garlic sauce served with the beef.

Variety Within the Roast Course

While the name suggests a single cooking method, the arrosta could include:

• Spit-roasted meats — large joints of beef, lamb, game birds.
• Grilled dishes — chops, skewers, or offal.
• Fried items — fritters, pastries, and delicate morsels.
• Baked pies and pasties — often with meat or cheese fillings.

This variety allowed the cook to display mastery over multiple techniques while still keeping within the course’s “dry” category in humoral terms.

Salting as a Preservation Technique

Our beef for this course followed a process rooted in Renaissance preservation methods. Salting was one of the most important means of keeping meat edible beyond the immediate slaughtering period, especially before reliable cold storage. Coarse salt (often mixed with aromatics like fennel, coriander, or garlic) was rubbed into meat to draw out moisture through osmosis, inhibiting bacterial growth. In larger households and urban kitchens, salted meats allowed for advance preparation and easier provisioning — vital for feast service where dozens or even hundreds of guests might be served.

In Scappi’s recipes, salting could be brief — just hours — for seasoning and texture, or extended over several days for preservation. The salted pressed beef method we adapted for our brisket echoes both preservation and seasoning traditions, ensuring flavorful meat that holds its structure through long, slow cooking. In feast context, the ability to produce such meat out of season or far from slaughter was a mark of logistical skill and kitchen sophistication.

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Menu

1. Per arrostire allo spiedo un carré di costolette di manzo – To spit-roast a rack of beef ribs (Brisket substitution) 
2. Per brasare le cipolle intere in quaresima – To braise whole onions in Lent 
3. Salsa di noci e aglio – Walnut and Garlic Sauce 
4. Salsa di Mostardo amabile – Sweet Mustard Sauce 
5. Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche – Turkish Squash 
6. Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda – Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style 
7. Gelo in bocconcini di piu colori piatti – Jelly in small bites, of many colors