Piatti di Salumi: Renaissance Antipasti & Mostarda (period and non-period recipe included)

“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.

Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.

Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda

While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.

Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.

For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.

Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)

How Scappi’s mostarda differs from the modern chutney used at feast

Aspect	Period (Scappi, 1570)	Modern Chutney Used	Practical Notes
Fruits	Quince & apples; candied citrus peels	Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries	Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume
Sweet/acid	Sugar + wine + grape must	Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar	Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar
Heat	Mustard essence/seed	Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne	Adjust heat post-cook to taste
Texture	Smooth, pounded sauce	Chunky, spoonable conserve	Either pairs well with salumi & cheese
Make-ahead?	Yes — improves with rest	Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated	Ideal for feast workflow

Recipe: Mostarda Amabile (Scappi-inspired Redaction)

Flavor profile: quince–apple base, candied citrus, gentle mustard warmth. Use: with salumi, roast meats, aged cheeses.

• 1 lb (450 g) quince, peeled, cored, diced
• 1 lb (450 g) tart apples, peeled, cored, diced
• 1 cup (240 ml) white wine (or verjuice)
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) grape must or 1/3 cup (65 g) extra sugar + 1 tbsp honey
• 3/4–1 cup (150–200 g) sugar, to taste
• 2 oz (55 g) candied bitter orange peel, finely chopped
• 1 oz (28 g) candied lemon peel, finely chopped
• 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
• 1–2 tsp ground mustard or 10–15 drops food-grade mustard essential oil
• Pinch salt (optional)

1. Combine quince, apples, wine, grape must (or sugar+honey), and 1/2 cup sugar in a pot. Simmer until fruit is very soft, 25–35 minutes.
2. Stir in candied peels and nutmeg; cook 5–10 minutes to thicken glossy.
3. Pound in a mortar (period) or puree smooth (modern). Adjust sweetness.
4. When warm—not hot—stir in mustard (or a few drops mustard oil). Rest 12–24 hours.
5. Serve slightly cool. Refrigerate; keeps 2–3 weeks.

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Recipe: Modern Mostarda (Sweet & Spicy Chutney)

Source used at feast: thenighttimecook.com. Included here for convenience with attribution.

Yield: ~3 cups  |  Prep: 15 min  |  Cook: 1 hr 15 min

• 1 lb ripe pears, peeled & chopped (1/2″)
• 1 lb apples, peeled & chopped (1/2″)
• 4 oz dried cranberries (or red currants/blueberries)
• 4 oz dried cherries
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tsp ground mustard
• 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
• 2 tbsp yellow mustard seed
• 1 tsp cayenne pepper (to taste)
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 1 tbsp canola oil
• 1 cup white wine
• 2 cups water
• 2 bay leaves

1. Add all ingredients to a medium pot and stir.
2. Bring to a boil over medium-high; cook ~1 hour 15 minutes until syrupy and thick.
3. Serve warm, cold, or room temp. Store airtight 3–4 weeks (refrigerated).

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Antipasti at a glance: what we served, period notes, and easy swaps

Menu title: Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Component	Period status (Italian Renaissance)	Suggested period-leaning swap	Prep category
Homemade bacon	Cured pork yes; “streaky bacon” is more English—Italian service leans pancetta/lardo.	Pancetta or lardo slices.	Make ahead
Burrata (semi-soft)	Modern (20th c.).	Ricotta fresca, mozzarella, or soft pecorino.	Assemble day-of
Asiago (semi-hard)	Historic roots; modern PDO differs.	Pecorino Romano or aged Piave.	Assemble day-of
Olives	Period and fitting.	—	Assemble day-of
Fresh grapes	Period and fitting.	—	Assemble day-of
Lardo (handmade)	Period (e.g., Colonnata traditions).	—	Make ahead
Coppa (intended; salami purchased)	Coppa/capocollo & salami are period regional salumi.	Coppa, regional salame, or prosciutto.	Make ahead
Pancetta (purchased)	Period and fitting.	—	Make ahead
Dried figs & apricots	Period and fitting.	—	Assemble day-of
Rosemary sprigs (decor)	Herbs common; garnish is modern plating but appropriate in spirit.	—	Assemble day-of
Rustic Italian or thin baguette slices	Bread is period; baguette is French/later.	Pane country loaf, schiacciata, or trencher-style slices.	Assemble day-of
Mostarda (modern chutney)	Concept is period; texture/acid profile is modern.	Mostarda di Cremona (candied fruit in mustard syrup).	Make ahead

Quick substitutions (at a glance):

• Cheese: burrata/Asiago → ricotta fresca, mozzarella, pecorino, caciocavallo
• Meats: lean into prosciutto crudo, pancetta, lardo, coppa, regional salami
• Bread: baguette → rustic pane or schiacciata
• Condiment: chutney-style → Mostarda di Cremona

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Feast-steward formula (quick take)

• Make-ahead sauces, sweets, and condiments build breathing room.
• Centerpieces (roasts) can be pre-cooked to save heat/fuel day-of.
• Day-of veg keeps freshness and heat on the table.
• Assembled platters (salumi) deliver impact with low stress.
• One fussier dish gets your attention without sinking the line.

The Arrosto course: how the “balanced prep” formula shines

This course shows exactly how I structure labor: one dish I can assemble fast, several I can prepare in advance, and one or two that require attention the day of service. For a deeper dive into this balance, see the Arrosto course summary below (or link to your full Arrosto post if published).

Arrosto course (Scappi) with modern execution and prep categories

Dish (Scappi)	Modern execution	Prep category
Per arrostire allo spiedo un carré di costolette di manzo — To spit-roast a rack of beef ribs	Cooked ahead, reheated, served on site	Cook ahead
Per brasare le cipolle intere in quaresima — To braise whole onions in Lent	Cooked on site (quick, “toss together”)	Day-of cooking
Salsa di noci e aglio — Walnut & Garlic sauce	Made ahead & served	Make ahead
Salsa di Mostardo amabile — Sweet Mustard Sauce	Made ahead & served	Make ahead
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish squash	Cooked on site	Day-of cooking
Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda — Herb tortellini (Lombard style)	Formed ahead & frozen; cooked & served day-of	Mixed: prep ahead + finish day-of
Gelo in bocconcini di più colori — Jelly in small, colorful bites	Made ahead; plated day-of (literal “toss together”)	Make ahead + quick plate

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Dietary notes: 🥛 dairy, 🐖 pork, 🍞 gluten (if baguette/pane used). 🥕 Dietary notes included

Reader question: Would you like to see more posts that pair a period source with a modern, make-ahead adaptation in this table format?

Source note: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (Venice, 1570), Libro II, cap. 276.