Something Sweet and Savory — Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia
Craving a taste of the Renaissance? Here's your ticket— piattelletti di maroni in bragia, or ember-roasted chestnuts, a Renaissance favorite brought to life using ancient cooking techniques for nuts preserved in historic manuscripts.. All it takes is a crackling fire, a bed of embers, and a dusting of sugar and salt. Simple, rustic, and surprisingly delicious.
Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia, which charmingly translates to “little chestnut cakes in the embers,” comes from La Singolare Dottrina, penned in 1560 by Domenico Romoli—better known as Panunto. Don’t let the name fool you—it’s not a cake in the modern sense, but rather whole chestnuts nestled in hot ash or coals. And when finished with sugar, salt, and a hit of pepper? Absolute magic. You’ll be asking yourself how something so basic can taste so good.
A decade later, Bartolomeo Scappi featured a similar technique in his masterpiece Opera dell'arte del cucinare (1570)—a true treasure chest of culinary brilliance. Like Romoli, he was all about the ember-roasted chestnuts, but with an extra nudge of seasoning. Both men clearly understood that chestnuts, with just a little fire and flair, could steal the show.
Chestnuts were a staple in Italian kitchens during the 15th and 16th centuries, prized not just for their flavor but also for their versatility. Dishes ranged from sweet to savory, and cooks like Scappi and Romoli perfected techniques still worth learning today.
Romoli (1560) wrote of cooking chestnuts in embers to bring out their natural sweetness, while Scappi detailed "piattelletti", or small chestnut cakes, roasted or cooked directly in ashes or coals. These weren’t just rustic peasant fare—they were refined enough for noble tables during feast days and holidays.
“Maroni si cuociono nel bragia, et servano caldi sopra tovagliuoli bianchi.”
(Romoli, 1560)
“Chestnuts are cooked in embers and served warm on white linens.”
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| One of the many menu's featuring Chestnuts in Embers from La Singolare Dottrina |
So, to keep this delicious bit of smoky history alive, I’ve got two ways you can make them: one straight out of the 16th century, and one fit for a modern stovetop. Fingers crossed I keep the ash to a minimum!
Historic Version: Piattelletti di Maroni in Bragia
Ingredients:
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Fresh chestnuts
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Embers or ash
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Sugar
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Salt
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Pepper
Method:
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Slice an X into the flat side of each chestnut. It’ll stop them from bursting and make peeling a lot easier.
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Nestle them gently into warm embers—no direct flames, just cozy heat from the coals.
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Let them roast 20–30 minutes, giving them a stir now and then for even cooking.
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Pull them out and cool slightly. They're best peeled while still warm.
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Sprinkle with sugar, salt, and cracked pepper while they’re still toasty.
That’s it. A smoky-sweet snack with just the right amount of warmth and rustic charm. It's a little time travel on a plate.
Modern Kitchen Version: Oven-Roasted Chestnuts with Sugar, Salt & Pepper
Ingredients:
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1 lb fresh chestnuts
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1 tbsp sugar
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1/2 tsp kosher salt
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1/4 tsp fresh black pepper
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Optional: a drizzle of olive oil or melted butter
Method:
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Heat your oven to 425°F (220°C).
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Score each chestnut with an X on the flat side.
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Roast on a baking sheet for 20–25 minutes, until the shells curl back at the X.
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Let them cool enough to handle, then peel.
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Toss warm chestnuts with sugar, salt, pepper—and maybe a little butter or oil, if you’re feeling fancy.
Serve them warm, maybe with a glass of wine or cider. They’re just as welcome on a winter snack board as they are straight from the oven.
A Bit More on the Origins
Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina was more than a cookbook—it was a guide for noble households, covering everything from seasonal menus to food and health advice. Scappi’s Opera, written just ten years later, was the work of a papal chef—six volumes packed with over a thousand recipes and drawings. Where Romoli wrote with a steward’s insight, Scappi brought the precision and flair of a true culinary artist.
Together, they remind us how humble ingredients—like the chestnut—can become something extraordinary with a bit of care and creativity.
Final Thoughts: A Flavor Worth Reviving
Piattelletti di maroni in bragia reminds us that even the simplest ingredients—chestnuts and embers—can create something beautiful and deeply nostalgic. Whether you're drawn to historic Italian chestnut recipes or simply crave traditional chestnut recipes for fall, this ancient treat deserves a comeback.
Would I make these again? Absolutely. There's something so satisfying about cracking into a warm, roasted chestnut and tasting that perfect sweet-savory balance. So next time you see chestnuts at the market, take the leap—you might just discover your new favorite fall treat.
If you love diving into the past like I do, I highly recommend exploring these Renaissance cookbooks:
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📖 Scappi’s Opera (1570) – full digitized version on archive.org
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📖 Romoli’s La Singolar Dottrina (1560) – archived scans and translations
These works offer a window into a time when cooking was equal parts sustenance and spectacle.
Sources:
La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico romoli Sopranominato Panonto dell’ufficio delle Scalco (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://www.google.com/books/edition/La_Singolare_Dottrina_di_M_Domenico_Romo/AiY6AAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=Piattelletti+di+maroni+in+bragia+ (Accessed: 11 April 2025).
The opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) (no date) Google Books. Available at: https://books.google.com/books?id=oF2jsqrWtEkC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false (Accessed: 11 April 2025).
