Twisted Bread of Milk and Sugar – Pani di latte e zuccaro (Messisbugo, 1557)

Twisted Bread of Milk and Sugar – Pani di latte e zuccaro (Messisbugo, 1557)

Course: Bread for the Table
Event: 12th Night 2024 Feast
Served with: Butter in the shape of a crescent moon

This enriched Italian Renaissance bread is drawn from Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s Libro Novo (1557). Twisted or shaped round, it uses rosewater, egg yolks, and sugar to create a tender, aromatic loaf perfect for feasts and celebrations.

Bread, Beauty, and Banquets – Renaissance Context

Daily Bread and Dietary Staples

In Renaissance Italy, bread formed the . Historical records and dietary accounts suggest that an average adult consumed 1 to 2 pounds of bread per day, depending on class, region, and occupation.¹ This was true for both peasants and elites, although the quality of flour and preparation varied. Bread was consumed at every meal—not just as a side, but as a plate, spoon, and primary calorie source. It was political, economic, and symbolic: the price of bread could trigger riots, and its presence at table was a sign of domestic stability and hospitality.

Flour Types in the Renaissance – and Modern Substitutes

Messisbugo calls for “fiori di farina burattata”—the flower of flour, meaning the whitest, finest sifted wheat flour. This would have been milled from soft wheat and carefully bolted (sifted) to remove bran and middlings.² Such flour was expensive and associated with cakes, festival breads, and noble kitchens. A typical household might use a rougher, darker loaf, while fine “white” bread marked both status and refinement.

To mimic this in modern kitchens, the recipe uses a combination of:

• Cake flour – for the finely sifted texture of historical “fior di farina”
• Whole wheat flour – to reintroduce complexity and some of the historical grain flavor
• All-purpose flour – for gluten development and structure

Why Nine Ounces?

The original recipe title translates as "Bread of Milk and Sugar, each one nine ounces".³ This precision suggests a pre-portioned serving size—likely large enough to be substantial, but individual rather than shared. At 9 oz, each loaf was about the size of a modern personal roll or mini-brioche—rich enough to be filling, decorative enough to stand alone, and convenient for banquet service. Messisbugo’s note that the loaves may be made “larger or smaller” confirms this was a flexible—but intentional—starting point.

Enrichment, Aesthetics, and Symbolism

Unlike the daily peasant loaf, this bread was highly enriched: rosewater, sugar, milk, butter, and an astonishing 75 yolks in the base recipe. These were festival ingredients—meant to showcase wealth, honor the guest, or mark a special occasion.⁴ Messisbugo emphasizes the bread’s beauty, advising it be shaped “round, twisted, or in buns” depending on the cook’s judgment. This echoes the broader Renaissance fascination with form as function: food was art, signaling refinement as well as taste.

Crescent Butter and Decorative Serving

The use of crescent shapes in a Renaissance feast, especially in January, is steeped in seasonal, religious, and astrological symbolism. The crescent moon shaped butter was specifically called out in Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina, "Menu for the Month of January" which was our inspiration for this menu. At our 12th Night feast, the bread was served alongside crescent moon–shaped butter—a poetic addition not in the original recipe, but one that honors the period’s love of symbolism and seasonal meaning. Celestial forms like the crescent often appeared in banquet decor, heraldry, and religious iconography. Serving shaped butter alongside this bread nods to that heritage and elevates the experience—just as Messisbugo intended.

🌙 Crescent Symbolism in January and Renaissance Feasting

1. Lunar Symbolism  

• The New Cycle Begins January is the first month of the year, and crescent moons — especially the waxing crescent — were seen as symbols of new beginnings, rebirth, and the start of a cycle. 
•  In humoral and astrological medicine, the moon’s phases were believed to influence digestion, planting, bleeding, and emotional states. 
•  A waxing crescent in January would have been viewed as favorable for growth, renewal, and balance — ideal virtues to invoke at a feast welcoming the new year. 

 2. Marian Symbolism  - The Virgin Mary and the Crescent 

• The crescent moon was a common Marian symbol in Catholic iconography, especially in post-medieval Italy. 
•  Revelation 12:1 describes the Virgin Mary as “a woman clothed with the sun, with the moon under her feet,” often shown standing on a crescent in religious art. 
• A January feast falls near Epiphany (January 6) and the Feast of the Holy Name of Mary (formerly January 1), making Marian imagery seasonally resonant. 
•  Serving crescent-shaped foods — like butter, cookies, or marzipan — could be a subtle devotional nod woven into banquet display. 

3. Celestial and Astrological Themes

• Banquet as Cosmos Renaissance banquets were not just meals — they were symbolic microcosms, often reflecting celestial order. 
• Shapes like stars, suns, and moons were used in pastry, sugar sculpture, and even molded butter to align the table with divine harmony. 
•  January’s association with Capricorn (ruled by Saturn) may also factor in, as crescents could symbolically balance Saturn’s cold, dry temperament with the moist, life-giving lunar humors. 

4. Aesthetic Elegance and Seasonal Harmony 

• The crescent shape was elegant and symmetrical, favored for both religious and artistic reasons. 
•  In Domenico Romoli’s Doctrine, the “Banquet of the Month of January” includes foods shaped like crescents or stars, aligning with the seasonal theme of celestial order and renewal. 
•  Presenting crescent-shaped butter beside enriched bread would have visually reinforced these themes in a subtle but intentional way.

A Bread Course? Not Quite

In Renaissance banquets, there wasn’t typically a formal “bread course”. Instead, bread might appear with appetizers, serve as a base under meat or sauces, or accompany dessert cheeses. But in elaborate feasts, trays of specialty breads and biscuits might be passed between courses or near the close of the meal. Our “Bread for the Table” course draws on that tradition—honoring bread’s place in every stage of dining while highlighting it as a crafted centerpiece, not just a carrier of flavor.

Historical Context

Messisbugo notes that “this bread is made more beautiful by making them round, twisted, or in buns.” The loaves could vary in size and form. In the 12th Night feast, we served these golden loaves as part of a “Bread for the Table” offering—something not necessarily a formal course, but reflective of Italian Renaissance customs where enriched or shaped breads played a decorative and practical role between savory and sweet courses.

Brazzatelle di Latte, e Zuccaro – Milk and Sugar Bagels (1557)

Brazzatelle di Latte, e Zuccaro – Milk and Sugar Bagels (1557)

Course: Bread for the Table

Feast: 12th Night 2024, Pan da Tavola, Made by Jennifer Bishop
Source: *Libro Novo* by Cristoforo di Messisbugo (1557)

These soft, slightly sweet breads were served at our Italian Renaissance feast as a morning-style bread, nestled between savory and sweet dishes. The original source calls them Brazzatelle—a term used in Italy for ring-shaped breads or cookies—and describes a process similar to making bagels, including boiling before baking. Enriched with milk, eggs, rosewater, and sugar, they may have been intended as a refined treat for a January banquet table.

A Renaissance Ring: The Story Behind Brazzatelle

Brazzatelle—also spelled brazzadelle, brazzadei, or brasadèle depending on region—were a type of ring-shaped bread popular across northern and central Italy from the medieval period through the Renaissance. The name likely stems from the Latin brachium (arm) or bracellus (bracelet), referencing their circular, bracelet-like shape.

These breads were often boiled before baking, giving them a glossy, firm exterior while preserving a soft interior. This technique, associated with extended shelf life, also made them ideal for festive or ritual uses. In Ferrara, Venice, and Bologna, brazzatelle were given as holiday gifts, blessed in churches during Easter, or included in wedding dowries.

Some were sweetened, like the version from Messisbugo’s Libro Novo (1557), while others were plain or flavored with anise seed. Their uses were diverse:

• Ritual breads for New Year’s, weddings, Easter, or religious processions
• Gifts or tokens of good fortune, especially when made in pairs or dozens
• Street or market fare—sold by licensed bakers, often under guild oversight

Are They Bagels?

While brazzatelle are not direct ancestors of the modern Ashkenazi bagel, they share several similarities:

• Ring shape and boiled-then-baked preparation
• Guild-regulated production and ceremonial use
• Flexible recipe base—ranging from peasant food to noble fare

It’s possible the boiling technique spread via cross-cultural contact. Jewish communities were established in Ferrara and other Italian cities by the 15th century, especially after the 1492 Spanish expulsion. Culinary exchanges between Jewish bakers and Italian guild traditions may have helped standardize boiled breads in both cultures [Gvion, 2004].

Sweet, Rich, and Refined

Messisbugo’s version reflects the courtly taste of the Este family in Ferrara: enriched with milk, eggs, sugar, butter, and rosewater, it would have been seen as a luxurious item. He suggests shaping them “as you like” and recommends adding anise seed, a common Renaissance spice prized for its digestive and humoral balancing properties [Albala, 2006].

In context, these may have been served with other banchetto items—spiced fruits, sugared nuts, or wine-soaked cakes—and consumed during the second or third course of a festive winter feast.

The original recipe yields 50 generous biscuits, each around 4 ounces. Our modern version scales down the ingredients, shapes the dough into braided twists or rings, and bakes them to golden perfection. While not as chewy as a modern New York bagel, these have a tender crumb and delicate flavor, perfect with jam, cheese, or on their own.

Original Recipe

📜 Ricetta Originale – Brazzatelle di latte, e zuccaro (1557)

Per far cinquanta brazzatelle di quattro oncie, si piglia quindeci libre di farina, tre oncie d’acqua rosa, tre libre di latte, e due di zuccaro bianco, venticinque ova, quattro oncie di butiro, et impastinsi bene insieme queste cose. Poi si faccino le dette brazzatelle secondo la maniera che si vuole fare, et si faccino lievitare con gran diligenza. Et lievitate che saranno, si faccia bollire acqua, et si gettino dentro le dette brazzatelle a cuocere, et quando saranno a galla, si cavino fuori, et si mettino in acqua fresca, et da poi si pongano a cuocere al forno. Et se si vorrà mettere dentro dell’anese, farà buona operazione.

— Messisbugo, Libro Novo, 1557

Translation note: The term brazzatelle refers to ring- or twist-shaped breads, often associated with ritual use. This recipe describes a luxurious enriched dough, boiled like a bagel, then baked—unusual for Renaissance Italy and suggesting a festive or banquet setting.

To make fifty biscuits of four ounces each, take fifteen pounds of flour, three ounces of rose water, three pounds of milk, and two pounds of white sugar, 25 eggs, four ounces of butter, and knead these together well. Then shape your biscuits in the manner you like, and let them rise with great diligence. When risen, boil water and throw in the biscuits to cook. When they float, remove and place in fresh water. Then bake them on the fire. If you want to add anise, that would work well.
– Messisbugo, *Libro Novo* (1557)

Crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito - To prepare a crostata of mushrooms

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – To prepare a crostata of mushrooms for a day in Lent
— Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina, c. 1560

Translation Note: The phrase “in prestito” literally means “on loan” or “borrowed.” In Renaissance Italian culinary texts, it often referred to fast days — especially during Lent — when meat was forbidden and meals were offered in spiritual observance. A “giorno in prestito” was thus a day “loaned to God,” requiring dietary restraint but still calling for skilled, satisfying cookery.

Note: Scappi’s crostata method (likely recipes 221–222) typically included soft cheese and eggs. Though recipe 223 is titled “for a fast day,” it references that base without explicitly removing dairy, leading some modern interpretations (like this one) to keep the cheese. Historically, a true Lenten version would omit cheese and use dairy-free alternatives such as almond-based fillings.

In the heart of an Italian Renaissance kitchen, a crostata wasn’t just a pastry — it was a vehicle for showcasing the season’s best ingredients, shaped by time, place, and religious calendar. This particular recipe, Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito, comes from Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th century) and was written specifically for a “day in Lent” — when meat and animal fats were forbidden, but richly savory dishes were still expected at noble tables.

🍄 What Mushrooms Did Renaissance Cooks Use?

The original recipe refers to morels and to "the mushroom that grows at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes," which was described as firm and orange-tinted. This likely refers to chanterelles or possibly Caesar’s mushrooms (Amanita caesarea), both highly prized in the Italian Renaissance for their flavor and availability in oak or chestnut woodlands.

Mushrooms were considered acceptable fare on Lenten days because they were "neither fish nor flesh" and grew from the earth like vegetables. However, because mushroom poisoning was a genuine concern, most cookery books urged boiling wild mushrooms before use—even if it dulled their flavor.

Modern Substitutions

If fresh morels or chanterelles are not available, a good blend of cremini, oyster, shiitake, or portobello mushrooms works well. Mixing mushroom varieties provides depth and richness that mimics wild foraged flavors. Dried morels or porcini reconstituted in warm water are also excellent for layering in that "woodland" taste.

Tip: Avoid standard white button mushrooms for this dish—they lack the earthiness that Renaissance cooks prized in their “funghi di bosco.”

Renaissance Herbs and Flavor Pairings

Herbs were not simply seasoning — they were medicinal, seasonal, and intentionally paired with ingredients based on their humoral qualities. Mushrooms were considered “cold and moist” in Galenic terms, so cooks balanced them with “warm and dry” herbs like parsley, thyme, marjoram, mint, or sage. In Lenten cookery, the brightness of lemon and the lift of fresh herbs helped transform otherwise heavy or plain components into elegant, aromatic fare.

Lent Across Renaissance Europe

Italian Renaissance kitchens handled Lenten restrictions with creativity and abundance. Meat and animal fats were forbidden, but olive oil, vegetables, herbs, and often fish or shellfish remained fair game. Dishes like this crostata show how satisfying “meatless” cuisine could be — rich in umami, layered with textures, and full of complexity.

Compared to northern regions like England or the Low Countries, where fasting meant salt fish, ale pottage, or butter-thickened gruel, Italian cooks had a Mediterranean bounty to draw from. Almond milk, pine nuts, mushrooms, and wild greens allowed even the most devout households to enjoy sumptuous meals — legally and liturgically.

What Does “Crostata” Mean?

The word crostata comes from the Italian root crosta, meaning “crust”, which itself derives from the Latin crusta, meaning “hard outer shell” or “rind.” Related terms in Latin include crustulum (a little cake or pastry — root of the word crustulum/crustule, used in medieval Latin cookery). 

By the 15th–16th centuries, crostata in Italy referred broadly to: 

• Open-faced baked tarts (savory or sweet), made with a pastry base and visible fillings 
• Savory pies (enclosed or partially enclosed) 
• In some regional or culinary contexts: toasted bread or “crusted” slices used as a base or vehicle for toppings — particularly in fast-day preparations 

This broader use was recognized by: 

• Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.), where crostata is used interchangeably with “pan ghiotto” (gourmand bread) 
• Scappi’s Opera (1570), where crostate appear throughout menus as both rich tarts and layered bread dishes 

In both cases, the "crust" or "base" was essential — whether that meant baked pastry or well-toasted slices of bread, depending on ingredients, season, and occasion..

Both Domenico Romoli in his La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.) and Bartolomeo Scappi in his monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) include dozens of crostate — some encased in pastry, others built upon slices of bread or served open-faced in pans. For instance, Scappi describes crostate of vegetables, meat, cheese, or fish that are either baked in crusts or arranged on slices of toasted bread (Scappi, Book II, recipes 211–225).

In this recipe, the crostata is described as “pan ghiotto” — gourmand or luxurious bread — layered with savory toppings. The base is toasted or crusted bread, not pastry, aligning with Romoli's phrasing and period practice.  This usage parallels the French term “croûte” (as in en croûte), meaning food served on or enclsed in crusted bread or pastry.  All descend from the same Latin root - crusta - and highlight the central role of crust in both structure and flavor. 

While we might associate “crostata” today with sweet fruit tarts, its Renaissance meaning was far more versatile, often bridging the line between pastry and hearty antipasto.

It was served as part of the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 feast, a transitional course featuring hot, savory appetizers. This crostata balances rustic simplicity with complex flavor: mushrooms sautéed with herbs and garlic, layered atop crisp bread and soft cheese. Its inspiration comes directly from the forest floor — a celebration of the humble mushroom elevated to banquet fare.

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – Mushroom Crostata for a Lenten Day

Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop | Baronial 12th Night 2024 – Secundo Servito, Antipasti di Cucina

This savory mushroom crostata was one of four composed appetizers served during the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. The dish draws on Italian Renaissance sources like Domenico Romoli's La Singolare Dottrina, and is noted specifically as appropriate “per un giorno in prestito” – for a Lenten day. It’s vegetarian, full of woodland flavor, and easily adapted to suit modern dietary needs.

Feast Context

This antipasti course served as a flavorful bridge between cold pantry items and heavier meat dishes in a formal Italian Renaissance banquet. The mushroom crostata was served alongside:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – Gourmand bread with pork jowl or prosciutto – by Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Plated antipasti course with crostate, salad, and pickled grapes – 12th Night 2024

Original Text

223. Get morels or else the mushroom that grows in the woods at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes, which is round and firm and tends toward an orange colour. The safest thing is to bring them to a boil in water, though they are much more flavorful raw. In any case, whether raw or cooked, peel them carefully, beat them small with a knife and saute them in oil. Then get those ingredients used in recipe 222, adding in beaten and sauteed spring onions or else a small clove of garlic. Make up a torte with them in the way outlined in the above recipe.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette, sliced into ¾-inch diagonal slices
• Olive oil (for drizzling and sautéing)
• 1 lb mushrooms (cremini or wild, sliced)
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• ½ lb ricotta or other soft cheese
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Toast baguette slices until golden. Drizzle with olive oil.
2. In a skillet, heat more olive oil and sauté mushrooms, green onions, and garlic until tender.
3. Stir in lemon juice, thyme, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Spread ricotta onto each toast slice. Top with mushroom mixture.
5. Drizzle with additional olive oil. Cut each toast in half and serve warm.

Humoral Theory and Fasting Cuisine

Renaissance cooks operated under the framework of Galenic dietetics, which held that all foods had qualities — hot, cold, moist, dry — that affected the body’s balance of humors. Mushrooms were considered cold and moist, and thus could dampen digestion or cause melancholy if consumed without proper balance. To counteract this, recipes often paired them with warming, drying herbs like thyme, pepper, or mint, and used cooking methods like sautéing in oil to adjust their temperament. Even Lenten dishes like this crostata were not just about following rules — they were about preserving harmony in the body, especially during seasonal transitions and spiritual observances.

Notes and Substitutions

This is a rustic dish, originally made with wild mushrooms like morels or chestnut woodland varieties. The method is straightforward—chop, sauté, and season well. The addition of ricotta is a nod to Renaissance *torte* fillings, even though the Lenten version may have omitted it. 

Dietary Suggestions:

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan Option: Substitute vegan ricotta or herbed cashew cheese
• Gluten-Free Option: Use gluten-free toast or polenta rounds

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Serving Suggestions

While Renaissance cooks didn’t serve crostate with “sides” as we think of them today, dishes like this were part of a richly varied course of hot antipasti. To replicate the experience, consider pairing with:

• Insalata di cicorea – bitter chicory greens with raisins and shallots
• Uva in salamoia – pickled grapes to offset the fat and salt
• Another crostata, such as mushrooms in pastry for variety
• Soft cheese with herbs or small fried cheese fritters
• Savory eggs or bite-sized sausages
• Fried bread with sugar and cinnamon as a bridging flavor

This crostata is best served hot, but does well at room temperature. Ideally it would be served as part of a shared platter or buffet-style second service of antipasti di cucina.

🍽️ Explore the Full Antipasti Course

• Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto
• White Chicory Salad with Raisins and Shallots
• Pickled Grapes

📘 Historical References

• Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina (Venice, 1560s) – Culinary guide for household stewards. Referenced crostata of mushrooms and "pan ghiotto".
• Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Comprehensive Renaissance cookbook. See: Book II (Crostate Recipes).
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Pan Ghiotto con Barbaglia – Scappi’s Renaissance Crostate with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto (1570)

Secundo Servito – Antipasti di Cucina (Second Service of Kitchen Appetizers)

Crostate di barbaglia, crostata di funghi, insalata di cicorea, and uva in salamoia — prepped and ready for service at 12th Night.

In the structure of a formal Italian Renaissance feast, the second course was not necessarily the heaviest—it was often a bridge between light pantry offerings and more substantial meat dishes. This Secundo Servito, or Second Service, featured Antipasti di Cucina: hot or composed savory appetizers prepared fresh from the kitchen, in contrast to the simpler cold antipasti di credenza served earlier.

These warm antipasti were designed to stimulate the appetite and prepare the body for digestion according to Galenic principles—the humoral theory that governed much of Renaissance cooking. Dishes often balanced sweet and sour flavors, incorporated herbs for digestive support, and reused day-old bread or preserved meats to show both economy and elegance.

Our 12th Night Second Service of Antipasti took inspiration directly from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 1570 masterpiece Opera dell’arte del cucinare. This course was curated and prepared by Jennifer Bishop, with generous contributions from Dan Parker, who substituted his homemade bacon in place of prosciutto with delicious results.

Served in the Second Antipasti Course:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – “To prepare crostate—that is, gourmand bread—with salted pork jowl or prosciutto”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – “To prepare a crostata of mushrooms (for a fast day)”
  Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Each dish reflects Renaissance preferences for layered flavors and textures—toasted bread with rich toppings, sharp greens softened with sweet fruit, and preserved grapes offering a tart palate cleanser. The mushroom tart, notably, is drawn from Scappi’s frequent practice of offering giorni di magro (fast day) variants for religious observance.

Did You Know? Scappi’s antipasti courses regularly included both meat and vegetable preparations, showcasing not just opulence but also culinary mindfulness—adapting to dietary restrictions and balancing the humors.

🍞 Crostate – Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto

Course: Second Service – Antipasti di Cucina
Source: Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)
Modern Redaction: Jennifer Bishop (with homemade bacon courtesy of Dan Parker!)
Serves: 16
Tags: Renaissance, Appetizer, Pork, SCA Feast

📜 The Original and Modern Translation

Scappi’s Original (1570)

Friggasi [le fette di pane] in butiro, overo in lardo liquefatto, et habbiasi barbaglia di porco tagliata in fette, overo presciutto, et soffrigganosi nella padella con cipollette battute, et cime di salvia, et come saranno soffritte, pongasi in esse un poco di aceto, et mosto cotto, over zuccaro, et pepe, et cannella, dandovi una calda, et habbianosi apparecchiate le fette del pane nel piatto bagnate con un poco di grasso caldo, et pongansi sopra la barbaglia o il presciutto, con l’altre materie, et servansi calda.

Modern Translation

Fry the bread in butter or melted lard. Slice the pork jowl or prosciutto and sauté in a pan with spring onions and sage tips. When done, add a little vinegar, reduced must or sugar, pepper and cinnamon; heat well. Arrange the toasted, greased bread slices on a platter, top with the jowl or prosciutto and the sauce, and serve hot.

🥄 Modern Recipe (Serves 16)

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette—sliced into 3/4-inch slices on a diagonal
• 8 thin slices prosciutto (or homemade bacon), halved
• 1 leek or spring onion, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp dried or fresh minced sage
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• Pinch of cinnamon
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp water
• 2 tbsp mosto cotto (grape must syrup)
• Extra-virgin olive oil or melted lard for frying

Instructions

1. Toast the baguette slices in a skillet with olive oil or lard until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2. Sauté the prosciutto or bacon with the sliced leek and sage until lightly browned.
3. Add vinegar, sugar, water, mosto cotto, pepper, and cinnamon. Simmer until the liquid thickens slightly into a sauce.
4. Arrange toasted bread slices on a serving platter. Spoon the meat mixture and sauce over each slice. Serve warm.

🍇 Bonus Recipe: Mosto Cotto (Grape Must Syrup)

Yield: About 1 small jar

• 4 pounds fresh grapes (any dark variety)

1. Wash grapes and remove them from the stems. Crush to extract juice (use a food mill, juicer, or your hands).
2. Strain juice through a fine mesh sieve or muslin to remove skins and seeds.
3. Pour the juice into a heavy-bottomed pot and simmer gently until reduced by one-third.
4. The syrup should be thick and coat a spoon. It will continue to thicken as it cools.
5. Pour into sterilized jars. Some age it up to 24 months, but it's ready to use once cooled.

🍽️ Dietary & Service Notes

• Contains: Gluten, Pork, Alliums
• Vegetarian Version: Omit the pork and replace with sautéed mushrooms and walnuts (for feast day adaptation)
• Feast Service: Best served warm on platters, pre-assembled and sauced
• Labels: Antipasti, Appetizer, Renaissance, Pork

Pizza di Molti Strati – A Renaissance Baklava-Style Pastry with Elderflower & Rosewater

Despite the familiar name, this 16th-century “pizza” from Scappi bears no resemblance to modern flatbreads. Instead, it’s a delicate multi-layered pastry, brushed with butter, dusted with sugar and elderflower, and bathed in rosewater syrup. It’s likely a descendant of early Middle Eastern “baklava”‑style desserts—transmitted along Silk Road routes and adopted by Italian Renaissance cooks.

Historical Background

The tradition of layered pastry desserts originates in Middle Eastern and Byzantine cuisines. A 13th-century Arabic confection called lauzinaj—almond paste wrapped in ultra-thin dough and drenched in syrup—was an early ancestor to European versions. Phyllo dough itself traces back to Ancient Greek and Ottoman pastry techniques.

By the 16th century, Italian cooks like Scappi adapted the concept into a simplified “cold layered pizza,” blending Western sugars, elderflower, and rosewater into a visually striking—yet humble—pastry.

A Historical Journey Through Layered Pastry

This “pizza di molti strati” connects to a rich, layered history of syrup-drenched pastry desserts—evolving from Greco-Roman flat cakes to Byzantine, Arabic, and Ottoman specialties, finally taking elegant form in Renaissance Italy.

• Greco-Roman plakous & placenta – Layered pastries with dough, cheese, and honey. Cato the Elder’s placenta cake describes alternating layers of dough and cheese, baked and sweetened with honey.
• Byzantine koptoplakous – A nut-filled, syrup-drenched cake from Constantinople, widely regarded as an early form of baklava. Cited in culinary studies on Byzantine dessert culture.
• Arabic lauzinaj – Medieval almond paste pastries wrapped in thin dough and scented with rosewater. See: Scents and Flavors – Early Baklava Recipe.
• Ottoman Baklava & Phyllo Mastery – Ottoman chefs refined paper-thin dough layering in imperial kitchens. Syrups, nuts, and floral waters became standard. See Baklava – Wikipedia.
• Italian Renaissance Adaptation – Scappi’s 1570 *pizza di molti strati* replaces nuts with elderflower, and introduces a cold-serving presentation. It reflects Italy’s interpretation of a global dessert tradition.
  🍽️ What’s in a Name? A Slice of Pizza’s Etymology
  
  The word pizza may conjure images of tomato sauce and cheese—but its linguistic roots tell a far older story. The earliest known use dates to 997 CE in a Latin document from Gaeta, Italy, referring to a simple “focaccia”-style bread. But where the term *actually* comes from remains debated:

  • Ancient Greek pikte ("fermented pastry") or pitta ("flatbread")
  • Latin pinsa (from pinsere, “to press or flatten”)
  • Old High German bizzo or pizzo (“a bite” or “mouthful”)
  • Italian pizzicare (“to pluck” quickly from the oven)
  • Even Aramaic pita, referring to flatbread

  Linguists and food historians—like Jim Chevallier—have explored these etymologies in depth. In Scappi’s 1570 *Opera*, “pizza” still referred to a layered or folded pastry, not the tomato-covered dish we know today.
  
  Source: Linguistic and historical research courtesy of Jim Chevallier. For more, see discussions on Facebook and works on bread and early pizza history.

Original Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

“Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati: pigli uno foglio di pasta tirata sottile... tra ciascuno spargi burro, zucchero, ed erbe di sambuco... e quando è cotta servi fredda con zucchero e acqua di rose.”
—Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)

Modern English Translation

“To make a pizza of many layers, commonly served cold: take a sheet of pasta rolled out thin... between each one sprinkle butter, sugar, and elder flowers... and when it is cooked, serve cold with sugar and rosewater.”

Renaissance Kitchen Imagery

Woodcut from Scappi’s Opera (1570), showing layered pastry prep and kitchen tools.

“Pizza di Molti Strati” Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Ingredients

• ½ pack filo (phyllo) dough (homemade if time allows)
• ¼ lb butter, melted
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 Tbsp dried elderflower
• Rosewater, to drizzle

Method

1. Preheat oven to 400 °F (or follow filo package instructions).
2. Keep melted butter warm. Lay one sheet of filo in a greased tart pan.
3. Brush with butter, dust with sugar & elderflower. Layer three sheets, then repeat until 12 sheets are used, finishing with sugar & elderflower.
4. Slice into triangles. Bake until golden brown.
5. Let cool, then serve cold with a drizzle of rosewater.

If serving a small group, homemade phyllo is highly recommended—it adds freshness and flavor.

🌸 Floral Flourishes:
Elderflower and rosewater were prized in Renaissance kitchens for their fragrance and humoral balance. In this pastry, they elevate simple layers into something aromatic, symbolic, and beautiful.

Trays of Pizza di Molti Strati and Mele Cotogne stufate con pignoli, acqua rosa, e zuccaro — quince stewed with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar — ready for service at Flaming Gryphon 12th Night, 2024.

Want to make this for your next feast? Try homemade filo—it’s elegant, surprisingly satisfying, and perfect with a cup of warm spiced tea.

Primary Source Access

• Scappi’s Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Archive.org
• Full Italian Text on Google Books (1570 Edition)

Piadina – Roman Flatbread Inspired by Apicius

Piadina – Roman Flatbread

Course: Bread
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm or Room Temperature
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Piadina is a simple flatbread with roots in ancient Roman and Etruscan cuisine. Early references describe breads baked on hot stones or iron discs. Roman soldiers and farmers alike relied on this versatile bread, which could be prepared quickly without an oven. Today, its legacy continues in the flatbreads of central Italy.

Modern Interpretation

This version of piadina uses only basic ingredients—flour, fat, salt, and water—and cooks quickly on a griddle or open fire, making it ideal for period events with limited kitchen access.

Ingredients

• 3 cups flour
• 3 tbsp olive oil or lard
• 1 tsp salt
• Warm water (about 1 cup, added gradually)

Instructions

1. Mix flour and salt in a large bowl.
2. Add olive oil or lard and mix until crumbly.
3. Slowly add warm water while mixing to form a smooth dough.
4. Divide into 6–8 balls, flatten, and roll into ¼-inch thick rounds.
5. Cook on a hot griddle or pan until bubbles appear and each side is golden (about 2–3 minutes per side).

Note: These flatbreads are best eaten fresh but can also be stored and reheated briefly.

Serving Suggestions

Pair with Cucumeres (Braised Cucumber), Lucanicae (grilled Sausages), Epityrum (olives), and Moretum (herbed Cheese spread) to create a Roman Dayboard, or platter. 

Sources

• Pliny the Elder – Natural History
• Digitized Latin & English – LacusCurtius
• Gutenberg – Apicius (Vehling translation)

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🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?

Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:

• Cucumeres (Braised Cucumber)
• Lucanicae (Grilled Sausages)
• Epityrum (Olives)
• Moretum (Herbed Cheese Spread)
• Petaso paro Mustacei (Smoked Ham with Sweet Wine Cakes)
• Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis (Chickpeas with Saffron)
• Krambe (Roman Cabbage)
• Itria (Sesame Seed Biscuit)
• Basyniai (Fig and Walnut Cakes)

Vegetarian & Vegan Pie Crusts for Historical Recipes: A Practical Guide

 Vegetarian & Vegan Pie Crusts for Historical Recipes: A Practical Guide

Whether you're preparing a Lenten feast, accommodating modern dietary restrictions, or simply looking for a period-adjacent alternative to lard and suet, this guide offers reliable crust options for historical pies and tarts. While medieval and early modern sources often rely on animal fat for pastry coffins, cooks would have adapted as needed—especially on no-flesh days. These vegetarian and vegan-friendly options draw inspiration from that adaptability while meeting modern expectations for taste, texture, and practicality.

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🕯️ Pastry in Period: What the Sources Say

In medieval and Renaissance cookery, the pie crust—often referred to as a "coffin"—served multiple roles: cooking vessel, storage container, and edible wrapping. Crusts could be thick and structural (especially for meat pies), or more refined and flaky for sweet dishes and subtlety presentations.

While many crusts were made using lard, suet, or animal drippings, there are examples of simpler pastes using oil, butter, or no fat at all—especially in dishes served during Lent or on Fridays, when meat (and by extension, animal products) was restricted. Butter-based pastes are more common in late period and early printed cookbooks, such as Robert May’s The Accomplisht Cook (1660).

Unfortunately, few cookbooks from the SCA period (pre-1600) offer detailed pastry ratios. Recipes tend to say things like “make paste of fine flour and water” or “take butter and yolks to make a tender crust.” This vagueness gives us flexibility—but also calls for informed interpretation.

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🥧 Option 1: Ovo-Lacto Vegetarian Pie Paste

Suitable for late period recipes, meatless feasts, and sweet or savory pies.

Ingredients:

• 2½ cups flour (unbleached all-purpose or a blend with spelt for a nuttier flavor)

• ½ tsp salt

• ½ cup cold butter, cut into cubes

• ¼–½ cup cold water

• Optional: 1 tsp cider vinegar or rosewater/orange flower water for structure and aroma

Method:

1. Mix flour and salt in a bowl.

2. Cut in cold butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

3. Slowly add water (and optional flavoring) until dough comes together.

4. Chill for 30 minutes before rolling out.

Notes:

• This crust bakes to a tender, slightly flaky finish.

• Ideal for fruit pies, herb tarts, and vegetarian coffins.

• Can be egg-enriched (common in late Tudor and early Stuart crusts).

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🌱 Option 2: Vegan-Friendly Oil-Based Crust

Inspired by fasting-day pastes and Mediterranean-style doughs.

Ingredients:

• 2½ cups flour

• ½ tsp salt

• ½ cup neutral oil (sunflower, light olive oil, or refined coconut oil)

• ¼–½ cup cold water

Method:

1. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl.

2. Add oil and stir until evenly coated.

3. Gradually add water until the dough just comes together.

4. Form into a ball, wrap, and chill before use.

Notes:

• Produces a firm, short pastry—excellent for hand pies or savory coffins.

• Less flaky than butter crusts but still satisfying and historically plausible.

• Can be flavored with herbs, wine, or citrus zest.

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🧾 When to Use These Crusts

Use these pastry options when:

• You’re serving a Friday or Lenten menu

• Cooking for vegetarians or vegans at an SCA event

• Making fruit pies, greens tarts, or dairy-based fillings without meat

• Looking for a make-ahead crust that holds well at room temperature

These crusts are particularly well-suited to dishes like:

• Fridayes Pye

• Fruit or nut tarts

• Cheese and herb galettes

• Root vegetable pies or savory Lenten coffins

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🧁 Sample Recipes & Pairings

These crusts work beautifully in a wide range of dishes. Here are a few examples where you can put them to delicious use:

• Medieval Dessert Trio of Tarts: Apple, cherry, and almond tarts ideal for a final course or sweet subtlety.

• Fridayes Pye: A no-flesh tart with apples, greens, and raisins—a perfect Friday or Lent-friendly offering.

• To Make a Peasecod Dish in Puff Paste Two Ways: A sweet almond-based pastry dish, styled like peasecods—perfect for recreating late period subtleties or dessert courses.

🏺 Period-Inspired Flavor Variations

If you'd like to add a little extra flair that feels appropriate to the time:

• Use orange flower water or rosewater in place of some water

• Blend in a little ground almond for richer pastes

• Sprinkle the crust with sugar and cinnamon for fruit pies

• Add saffron-infused water for a golden hue

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Italian (Medieval) – (Italian) To Prepare A Filled Twist

 

The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi, 1570

If you are looking for a portable pick-me-up, that is sweet, savory, and delicious look no further than this recipe. Scappi's recipe for fruit-filled twist hist all the right spots. The moisture in the fruit prevents the dough from drying out, making this a perfect treat for the dayboard.

Original Recipe

Make a dough of two pounds of fine flour with six fresh egg yolks, two ounces of rosewater, an ounce of leaven moistened with warm water, four ounces of either fresh butter or rendered fat that does not smell bad, and enough salt. That dough should be kneaded well for half an hour. Make a thin sheet of it, greasing it with either melted butter that is not too hot or with rendered fat. With the pastry wheel, cut the edges one after the other, which are always quite a bit thicker than the rest. Sprinkle the dough with four ounces of sugar and an ounce of cinnamon. Then get a pound of currants that have been brought to a boil in wine, a pound of dates cooked in that wine and cut up small, and a pound of seeded muscatel raisins that have been brought to a boil in wine; combine all those ingredients and mix them with sugar, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Spread that mixture out over the sheet of dough along with a few little gobs of butter. Beginning at the long edge of the dough, roll it up like a wafer cornet, being careful not to break the dough. A twist like that needs only three rolls so it can cook well; it should not be too tight. Grease its surface with melted butter that is not too hot. Begin at one end to roll it up, not too tightly, so it becomes like a snail shell or a maze. Have a tourte pan on hand lined with a rather thick sheet of the same dough greased with melted butter and gently put the twist on it without pushing it down. Bake it in an oven or braise it with a moderate heat, not forgetting to grease it occasionally with melted butter. When it is almost done, sprinkle sugar and rosewater over it. Serve it hot. The tourte pan in which the twists are baked has to be ample and with low sides.

Ingredients

For the filling

1 cup dried currants or raisins

1 cup raisins

1 cup chopped dates

1 cup red wine

1/4 cup sugar (I used golden sugar)

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

1/4 tsp. cloves

Note: I used "Duke's Powder"

Instructions

1. Mix together all ingredients in a pot and cook until soft. Set aside to absorb the remaining liquid and cool while you work on the dough.

Ingredients

For the Dough

1 packet yeast

2/3 cup water

3 1/2 cups flour

3 tbsp. or to taste rosewater

3 egg yolks

4 ounces butter

1/2 tsp. salt

Instructions

1. Add yeast to the flour and mix well

2. Add water, rosewater, egg yolks butter, and salt, and knead the dough for 20 minutes if kneading by hand, or, 7 minutes if using a mixer and dough hook. The dough should be supple and not sticky.

3. Spray a baking sheet with a bit of oil before you begin shaping the dough.

4. Divide the dough into eight pieces. Shape each piece into a rectangle.

5. Divide the fruit filling among the rectangles and roll the long sides of the rectangle up into a cylinder. Then shape it like a cinnamon roll.

6. Place it onto the oiled sheet and allow it to rise for 30 minutes. While the dough is rising, preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

7. Before baking, brush the tops with an egg yolk that has been beaten. Bake for ~ 50 minutes or until browned.

8. You may glaze with a mix of 2 1/2 tbsp. sugar and 2 tsp. rosewater. I usually do 1 tsp. rosewater and 1 tsp. orange juice.

To serve, you can cut your rolls into slices, or serve whole.

Sources

"The Opera Of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570)". Google Books, 2022, https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Opera_of_Bartolomeo_Scappi_1570/oF2jsqrWtEkC?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=twists. Accessed 5 Sept 2022.

Kitchen Adventures – (German) (Lebkuchen - Gingerbread)

 Originally published Oct. 10, 2022

Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin (c. 1553)

Cookies! Who doesn't like a good cookie? With the cultivation of sugar in the 7th century, came cookies, or rather, test cakes that were used to test the temperature of an oven.

When we think of cake, a dense, bread-like product that is sweetened with honey, and perhaps flavored with nuts and fruits is not what we think of. However, this is an apt description of the earliest cakes. They were a food that was made to last many months.

According to Etymology, the word "cake" comes from the Old Norse kaka, which derives its roots from the West Germanic *kokon, from the Middle Dutch "koke" or Dutch "koek" meaning a cake or gingerbread dumpling. Its earliest usage is in the 13th Century, referencing a flat or thin bit of baked dough. The cakes that we are familiar with come into existence sometime in the middle of the 19th Century.

How did cakes become cookies?

In the early 1800s the word cookie is referenced in American English, in the sense of a "small, flat, sweet cake" from the Dutch koekje a diminutive of koek.

Ammonia Cookies - Hartshorn

I have seen some rather pithy debates over the use of hartshorn in the period, and this prompted me to do a little bit of research on the Food History Timeline (foodies--if you are not using this resource you are missing out). Here is what I found:

Ammonium carbonate, aka Hartshorn, Baker's Ammonia, or, hirschhornsalz, is a substance that is extracted from deer antlers. Hart is the term applied to a male deer, also known as a stag. It is reputed to have a very pungent odor which dissipates when cooked.

How was hartshorn made?

To create hartshorn cooks would heat and pulverize the horns. Once ground it could be added to baked goods where it would act similar to baking powder does today. When heated, it produces ammonia and carbon dioxide gas that lifts the dough as it escapes creating a light, springy texture.

Is hartshorn period for the SCA?

The earliest recipe I was able to locate is for Hartshorn Jelly, from a book published in 1659 purportedly a collection of recipes from as early as the 15th century. The author of this collection, Leonardo Fioravanti died in 1588. The style of writing is similar to the writing of the time that I am familiar with, but I am NOT the expert, based on what I have discovered, it is plausible. More research needs to be done.

℞. Two ounces of Hartshorn being small rasped, and a pint of fair water, one Nutmeg sliced, one race of Ginger, a branch of Rosemary, boyle all these together in an earthen Pipkin over a soft fire, till it be very clammy, then strain it into a Bason, and put to it Rosewater and Sugar.

Original Recipe

Gút lezelten zú bachen

Nim am ersten ain pfúnd zúcker, ain qúertlin geleúterts

honig, nit gar ain fiertellin mell/ nim 5 lot rerlen, 3 lott negellen,

4 lott kerner/ gestossen, die andere wirtz schneid

aúffs klainest, die rerlen aúfs grebest gestosen, thú jmber

aúch darein/ vnnd thú zúcker in das honig, lasß es mitainander

sieden, thús mell jn ain múolter, geúsß die kerner am

ersten ein, darnach den jmber vnnd dan die andern wirtzen.

Interpretation

#151 To bake good Lebkuchen

Take first a pound of sugar, a quart of clear honey, not quite a third quart of flour, take two and a half ounces of cinnamon, one and a half ounces of cloves, two ounces of cardamom. Cut the other spices as small as possible, the cinnamon sticks are ground as coarsely as possible. Also put ginger therein and put the sugar into the honey, let it cook together, put the flour in a trough, pour the cardamom into it first, afterwards the ginger and the other spices.

Ingredients

¾ cup honey

¾ cup sugar

½ cup flour

3 tbsp. cinnamon

¼ tsp. cloves

1 ½ tsp ginger - fresh if you can get it

½ tsp cardamom

Instructions

1. Mix together flour, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and ginger.

2. In a heavy-bottomed pan add sugar and honey and slowly heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. NOTE: If scum rises to the top, skim it off. This is normal when using honey.

3. Heat the honey and sugar mixture together until small bubbles begin to form and the syrup starts to get foamy. Approximately ten minutes.

4. Make a hollow in the flour and spice mixture and gently pour the honey into the hollow. Stir gently until well mixed. NOTE: This is a very sticky dough, and you may be tempted to add more flour. If you must, only add enough to allow the dough to form and no more.

5. Set the dough aside and allow it to cool for about 15 minutes.

6. While the dough is cooling, cover a cookie sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 275 degrees.

7. Dust hands with flour (do not forget this step or you may end up regretting your life's decisions--this dough sticks to everything!), rough your dough into a log, and section off pieces of it using a bit of waxed, unflavored floss.

8. Pick up a bit of the sectioned-off dough, roll it into a ball and place it on the cookie sheet. You will want to space them about 2 1/2 to 3 inches apart. Push an almond into the top of your cookie and bake for about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container while still slightly warm.

Thoughts

OMG! These are a sticky mess, but ohhhssssooooo worth it!! They are spicy and chewy and delicious. They would be excellent to bring with you on a camping trip and are modern enough in flavor that even the most discriminating cooking connoisseur will not complain.

You do want to store them while they are still warm so they remain soft. These cookies keep for a very long time. Do try them.

Sources

"An Exact Collection Of The Choicest And More Rare Experiments And Secrets In Physick And Chyrurgery (Both Cymick And Galenick) Viz. Of Leonard Phioravant, Knight And Doctour In Physick And Chyrurgery, His Rational Secrets And Chyrurgery &C. : Whereunto Is Annexed Paracelsus's One Hundred And Fourteen Experiments : With Certain Excellent Works Of G.B. Áa Ortu Aquitano ; Also Isaac Holandus, His Secrets Concerning His Vegetal And Animal Work : With Quercetanus His Spagyrick Antidotary For Gun-Shot : Also Certain Collections Out Of Some Manuscripts Of Dr. Edwards And Other Physitians Of Note ...". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A41325.0001.001/1:39.9.6?firstpubl1=1640;firstpubl2=1660;rgn=div3;singlegenre=All;sort=occur;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=hartshorn. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.

"Cake | Etymology, Origin And Meaning Of Cake By Etymonline". Etymonline.Com, 2022, https://www.etymonline.com/word/cake. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.

Crew, Kitchen. "The History Of Cookies". Just A Pinch, 2022, https://www.justapinch.com/blog/articles/read/209514/the-history-of-cookies/. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.

"Das Kochbuch Der Sabina Welserin (C. 1553)". Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen, 2022, https://www.uni-giessen.de/fbz/fb05/germanistik/absprache/sprachverwendung/gloning/tx/sawe.htm. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.

"Sabrina_Welserin.Html". Daviddfriedman.Com, 2022, http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.