Crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito - To prepare a crostata of mushrooms

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – To prepare a crostata of mushrooms for a day in Lent
— Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina, c. 1560

Translation Note: The phrase “in prestito” literally means “on loan” or “borrowed.” In Renaissance Italian culinary texts, it often referred to fast days — especially during Lent — when meat was forbidden and meals were offered in spiritual observance. A “giorno in prestito” was thus a day “loaned to God,” requiring dietary restraint but still calling for skilled, satisfying cookery.

Note: Scappi’s crostata method (likely recipes 221–222) typically included soft cheese and eggs. Though recipe 223 is titled “for a fast day,” it references that base without explicitly removing dairy, leading some modern interpretations (like this one) to keep the cheese. Historically, a true Lenten version would omit cheese and use dairy-free alternatives such as almond-based fillings.

In the heart of an Italian Renaissance kitchen, a crostata wasn’t just a pastry — it was a vehicle for showcasing the season’s best ingredients, shaped by time, place, and religious calendar. This particular recipe, Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito, comes from Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th century) and was written specifically for a “day in Lent” — when meat and animal fats were forbidden, but richly savory dishes were still expected at noble tables.

🍄 What Mushrooms Did Renaissance Cooks Use?

The original recipe refers to morels and to "the mushroom that grows at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes," which was described as firm and orange-tinted. This likely refers to chanterelles or possibly Caesar’s mushrooms (Amanita caesarea), both highly prized in the Italian Renaissance for their flavor and availability in oak or chestnut woodlands.

Mushrooms were considered acceptable fare on Lenten days because they were "neither fish nor flesh" and grew from the earth like vegetables. However, because mushroom poisoning was a genuine concern, most cookery books urged boiling wild mushrooms before use—even if it dulled their flavor.

Modern Substitutions

If fresh morels or chanterelles are not available, a good blend of cremini, oyster, shiitake, or portobello mushrooms works well. Mixing mushroom varieties provides depth and richness that mimics wild foraged flavors. Dried morels or porcini reconstituted in warm water are also excellent for layering in that "woodland" taste.

Tip: Avoid standard white button mushrooms for this dish—they lack the earthiness that Renaissance cooks prized in their “funghi di bosco.”

Renaissance Herbs and Flavor Pairings

Herbs were not simply seasoning — they were medicinal, seasonal, and intentionally paired with ingredients based on their humoral qualities. Mushrooms were considered “cold and moist” in Galenic terms, so cooks balanced them with “warm and dry” herbs like parsley, thyme, marjoram, mint, or sage. In Lenten cookery, the brightness of lemon and the lift of fresh herbs helped transform otherwise heavy or plain components into elegant, aromatic fare.

Lent Across Renaissance Europe

Italian Renaissance kitchens handled Lenten restrictions with creativity and abundance. Meat and animal fats were forbidden, but olive oil, vegetables, herbs, and often fish or shellfish remained fair game. Dishes like this crostata show how satisfying “meatless” cuisine could be — rich in umami, layered with textures, and full of complexity.

Compared to northern regions like England or the Low Countries, where fasting meant salt fish, ale pottage, or butter-thickened gruel, Italian cooks had a Mediterranean bounty to draw from. Almond milk, pine nuts, mushrooms, and wild greens allowed even the most devout households to enjoy sumptuous meals — legally and liturgically.

What Does “Crostata” Mean?

The word crostata comes from the Italian root crosta, meaning “crust”, which itself derives from the Latin crusta, meaning “hard outer shell” or “rind.” Related terms in Latin include crustulum (a little cake or pastry — root of the word crustulum/crustule, used in medieval Latin cookery). 

By the 15th–16th centuries, crostata in Italy referred broadly to: 

• Open-faced baked tarts (savory or sweet), made with a pastry base and visible fillings 
• Savory pies (enclosed or partially enclosed) 
• In some regional or culinary contexts: toasted bread or “crusted” slices used as a base or vehicle for toppings — particularly in fast-day preparations 

This broader use was recognized by: 

• Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.), where crostata is used interchangeably with “pan ghiotto” (gourmand bread) 
• Scappi’s Opera (1570), where crostate appear throughout menus as both rich tarts and layered bread dishes 

In both cases, the "crust" or "base" was essential — whether that meant baked pastry or well-toasted slices of bread, depending on ingredients, season, and occasion..

Both Domenico Romoli in his La Singolare Dottrina (mid-16th c.) and Bartolomeo Scappi in his monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) include dozens of crostate — some encased in pastry, others built upon slices of bread or served open-faced in pans. For instance, Scappi describes crostate of vegetables, meat, cheese, or fish that are either baked in crusts or arranged on slices of toasted bread (Scappi, Book II, recipes 211–225).

In this recipe, the crostata is described as “pan ghiotto” — gourmand or luxurious bread — layered with savory toppings. The base is toasted or crusted bread, not pastry, aligning with Romoli's phrasing and period practice.  This usage parallels the French term “croûte” (as in en croûte), meaning food served on or enclsed in crusted bread or pastry.  All descend from the same Latin root - crusta - and highlight the central role of crust in both structure and flavor. 

While we might associate “crostata” today with sweet fruit tarts, its Renaissance meaning was far more versatile, often bridging the line between pastry and hearty antipasto.

It was served as part of the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 feast, a transitional course featuring hot, savory appetizers. This crostata balances rustic simplicity with complex flavor: mushrooms sautéed with herbs and garlic, layered atop crisp bread and soft cheese. Its inspiration comes directly from the forest floor — a celebration of the humble mushroom elevated to banquet fare.

Preparare una crostata di funghi per un giorno in prestito – Mushroom Crostata for a Lenten Day

Courtesy of Jennifer Bishop | Baronial 12th Night 2024 – Secundo Servito, Antipasti di Cucina

This savory mushroom crostata was one of four composed appetizers served during the Second Service of Kitchen Antipasti (Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina) at the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. The dish draws on Italian Renaissance sources like Domenico Romoli's La Singolare Dottrina, and is noted specifically as appropriate “per un giorno in prestito” – for a Lenten day. It’s vegetarian, full of woodland flavor, and easily adapted to suit modern dietary needs.

Feast Context

This antipasti course served as a flavorful bridge between cold pantry items and heavier meat dishes in a formal Italian Renaissance banquet. The mushroom crostata was served alongside:

• Per far crostate cioè pan ghiotto con barbaglia de porco, o presciutto – Gourmand bread with pork jowl or prosciutto – by Jennifer Bishop & Dan Parker
• Insalata di Cicorea Bianca – White chicory salad with raisins and shallots
• Uva in Salamoia – Pickled grapes

Plated antipasti course with crostate, salad, and pickled grapes – 12th Night 2024

Original Text

223. Get morels or else the mushroom that grows in the woods at the foot of chestnut trees and briar bushes, which is round and firm and tends toward an orange colour. The safest thing is to bring them to a boil in water, though they are much more flavorful raw. In any case, whether raw or cooked, peel them carefully, beat them small with a knife and saute them in oil. Then get those ingredients used in recipe 222, adding in beaten and sauteed spring onions or else a small clove of garlic. Make up a torte with them in the way outlined in the above recipe.

Modern Interpretation – Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 12-inch baguette, sliced into ¾-inch diagonal slices
• Olive oil (for drizzling and sautéing)
• 1 lb mushrooms (cremini or wild, sliced)
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• ½ lb ricotta or other soft cheese
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Toast baguette slices until golden. Drizzle with olive oil.
2. In a skillet, heat more olive oil and sauté mushrooms, green onions, and garlic until tender.
3. Stir in lemon juice, thyme, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Spread ricotta onto each toast slice. Top with mushroom mixture.
5. Drizzle with additional olive oil. Cut each toast in half and serve warm.

Humoral Theory and Fasting Cuisine

Renaissance cooks operated under the framework of Galenic dietetics, which held that all foods had qualities — hot, cold, moist, dry — that affected the body’s balance of humors. Mushrooms were considered cold and moist, and thus could dampen digestion or cause melancholy if consumed without proper balance. To counteract this, recipes often paired them with warming, drying herbs like thyme, pepper, or mint, and used cooking methods like sautéing in oil to adjust their temperament. Even Lenten dishes like this crostata were not just about following rules — they were about preserving harmony in the body, especially during seasonal transitions and spiritual observances.

Notes and Substitutions

This is a rustic dish, originally made with wild mushrooms like morels or chestnut woodland varieties. The method is straightforward—chop, sauté, and season well. The addition of ricotta is a nod to Renaissance *torte* fillings, even though the Lenten version may have omitted it. 

Dietary Suggestions:

• Vegetarian: ✔️
• Vegan Option: Substitute vegan ricotta or herbed cashew cheese
• Gluten-Free Option: Use gluten-free toast or polenta rounds

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Serving Suggestions

While Renaissance cooks didn’t serve crostate with “sides” as we think of them today, dishes like this were part of a richly varied course of hot antipasti. To replicate the experience, consider pairing with:

• Insalata di cicorea – bitter chicory greens with raisins and shallots
• Uva in salamoia – pickled grapes to offset the fat and salt
• Another crostata, such as mushrooms in pastry for variety
• Soft cheese with herbs or small fried cheese fritters
• Savory eggs or bite-sized sausages
• Fried bread with sugar and cinnamon as a bridging flavor

This crostata is best served hot, but does well at room temperature. Ideally it would be served as part of a shared platter or buffet-style second service of antipasti di cucina.

🍽️ Explore the Full Antipasti Course

• Gourmand Bread with Pork Jowl or Prosciutto
• White Chicory Salad with Raisins and Shallots
• Pickled Grapes

📘 Historical References

• Domenico Romoli, La Singolare Dottrina (Venice, 1560s) – Culinary guide for household stewards. Referenced crostata of mushrooms and "pan ghiotto".
• Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Comprehensive Renaissance cookbook. See: Book II (Crostate Recipes).
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