Golden Fritters of the Renaissance – Scappi’s Fritelli di Riso

Vincent of Beauvais, Speculum historiale, France ca. 1294-1297 Boulogne-sur-Mer, Bibliothèque municipale, ms. 130II, fol. 87v.

Fritelli di Riso – Sweet Rice Fritters (Scappi, 1570)

Rice fritters may not sound exciting on paper—but let me tell you, these were the bombdiggity. I originally planned to test a savory version (I thought it might better suit modern palates), but after one sweet trial? Sold. The almond milk and sugar were perfect. Even better, the flavors made a lovely foundation for the  fricassee of rabbit and black broth it was served with. This dish punched way above its weight in the Alesso Course lineup.

Krambe – Roman Cabbage Salad with Ancient Dressing

Krambe – Roman Cabbage

Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm or cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

“Krambe,” the Latin word for cabbage, refers to a humble yet important vegetable in the Roman diet. Cabbage was not only a staple food but also valued for its supposed medicinal properties. Roman authors like Cato the Elder praised cabbage as a preventative against disease, and Apicius included several variations in his culinary writings.

This particular preparation features a simple but flavorful dressing of oil, wine, and spices—showcasing Roman balance between taste and practicality.

Modern Interpretation

This version softens the cabbage by boiling, then combines it with classic Roman seasonings for a zesty, herbed side dish.

Ingredients

• 1 medium cabbage
• 3 oz olive oil
• 1 tbsp liquamen (or substitute fish sauce)
• 1 tbsp white wine
• 1 tsp caraway seeds
• 1 small onion, finely sliced
• Coriander, salt, and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Boil cabbage in water 15–20 minutes until tender.
2. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again, and chop finely.
3. In a bowl, mix olive oil, wine, liquamen, onion, and spices.
4. Pour dressing over cabbage and mix thoroughly. Serve warm or chilled.

Sources

• Apicius – De Re Coquinaria (LacusCurtius): Full Latin & English Text
• Cato the Elder, De Agricultura: brief mention of cabbage as medicine

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🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?

Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:

• Cucumeres (Braised Cucumber)
• Lucanicae (Grilled Sausages)
• Epityrum (Olives)
• Moretum (Herbed Cheese Spread)
• Piadina (Flatbread)
• Petaso paro Mustacei (Smoked Ham with Sweet Wine Cakes)
• Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis (Chickpeas with Saffron)
• Itria (Sesame Seed Biscuit)
• Basyniai (Fig and Walnut Cakes)

Roman Smoked Pork with Must Cakes – Petaso paro Mustacei

Petaso paro Mustacei – Smoked Pork with Sweet Wine Cakes

Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Petaso, or pork, was widely enjoyed in Ancient Rome. In this dish, it is sweetened with honey and figs and served alongside mustacei—wine cakes traditionally baked atop bay leaves for flavor. These cakes were often served at celebrations, symbolizing hospitality and indulgence. Recipes for mustacei appear in Cato the Elder's De Agri Cultura, one of the oldest surviving Latin texts.

Did You Know?
Mustaceum comes from "mustum"—fresh grape must—used to flavor celebratory cakes in Roman weddings and feasts.

Modern Interpretation

Ingredients – Pork & Broth

• 2 pounds smoked ham
• 2 ½ cups pearl barley
• 10 dried figs
• 1 celery stalk
• 10 peppercorns
• 1 cup honey

Instructions

1. Soak ham overnight. Discard water.
2. In a pot, cover ham with fresh water. Add barley, figs, celery, peppercorns, and ½ cup honey.
3. Boil, skim, and simmer for 1 hour. Remove meat and reserve broth. Cool, then glaze with remaining ½ cup honey.

Sweet Wine Sauce

• 1 ¼ cups red wine
• 1 ¼ cups raisin wine (or substitute sweet red wine)
• ½ tsp ground black pepper

1. Simmer wines and pepper until reduced slightly. Serve as sauce with pork.

Sweet Wine Cakes (Mustacei)

• 2 cups flour
• 2 tbsp lard
• 2 oz grated cheese
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp aniseed
• 3–4 tbsp red wine
• Bay leaves
• ½ tsp dried yeast

1. Rub lard into flour. Mix in cheese, cumin, and aniseed.
2. Dissolve yeast in wine with bay leaf. Remove bay leaf and mix into flour.
3. Knead dough, divide into 8, shape into buns. Place on greased tray. Cover and let rise 1½ hrs.
4. Bake at 375°F for 25–30 minutes until golden.

Serving Suggestions

Slice glazed pork and serve with the wine reduction sauce and a warm mustaceum. Ideal paired with olives or soft cheese for a full Roman plate.

Sources

• Cato the Elder – De Agri Cultura: LacusCurtius
• On Roman cakes: CooksInfo – Mustaceum
• Additional Texts: Apicius via Gutenberg

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🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?

Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:

• Cucumeres (Braised Cucumber)
• Lucanicae (Grilled Sausages)
• Epityrum (Olives)
• Moretum (Herbed Cheese Spread)
• Piadina (Flatbread)
• Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis (Chickpeas with Saffron)
• Krambe (Roman Cabbage)
• Itria (Sesame Seed Biscuit)
• Basyniai (Fig and Walnut Cakes)