Originally published Oct. 10, 2022
Cookies! Who doesn't like a good cookie? With the cultivation of sugar in the 7th century, came cookies, or rather, test cakes that were used to test the temperature of an oven.
When we think of cake, a dense, bread-like product that is sweetened with honey, and perhaps flavored with nuts and fruits is not what we think of. However, this is an apt description of the earliest cakes. They were a food that was made to last many months.
According to Etymology, the word "cake" comes from the Old Norse kaka, which derives its roots from the West Germanic *kokon, from the Middle Dutch "koke" or Dutch "koek" meaning a cake or gingerbread dumpling. Its earliest usage is in the 13th Century, referencing a flat or thin bit of baked dough. The cakes that we are familiar with come into existence sometime in the middle of the 19th Century.
How did cakes become cookies?
In the early 1800s the word cookie is referenced in American English, in the sense of a "small, flat, sweet cake" from the Dutch koekje a diminutive of koek.
Ammonia Cookies - Hartshorn
I have seen some rather pithy debates over the use of hartshorn in the period, and this prompted me to do a little bit of research on the Food History Timeline (foodies--if you are not using this resource you are missing out). Here is what I found:
Ammonium carbonate, aka Hartshorn, Baker's Ammonia, or, hirschhornsalz, is a substance that is extracted from deer antlers. Hart is the term applied to a male deer, also known as a stag. It is reputed to have a very pungent odor which dissipates when cooked.
How was hartshorn made?
To create hartshorn cooks would heat and pulverize the horns. Once ground it could be added to baked goods where it would act similar to baking powder does today. When heated, it produces ammonia and carbon dioxide gas that lifts the dough as it escapes creating a light, springy texture.
Is hartshorn period for the SCA?
The earliest recipe I was able to locate is for Hartshorn Jelly, from a book published in 1659 purportedly a collection of recipes from as early as the 15th century. The author of this collection, Leonardo Fioravanti died in 1588. The style of writing is similar to the writing of the time that I am familiar with, but I am NOT the expert, based on what I have discovered, it is plausible. More research needs to be done.
℞. Two ounces of Hartshorn being small rasped, and a pint of fair water, one Nutmeg sliced, one race of Ginger, a branch of Rosemary, boyle all these together in an earthen Pipkin over a soft fire, till it be very clammy, then strain it into a Bason, and put to it Rosewater and Sugar.
Original Recipe
Gút lezelten zú bachen
Nim am ersten ain pfúnd zúcker, ain qúertlin geleúterts
honig, nit gar ain fiertellin mell/ nim 5 lot rerlen, 3 lott negellen,
4 lott kerner/ gestossen, die andere wirtz schneid
aúffs klainest, die rerlen aúfs grebest gestosen, thú jmber
aúch darein/ vnnd thú zúcker in das honig, lasß es mitainander
sieden, thús mell jn ain múolter, geúsß die kerner am
ersten ein, darnach den jmber vnnd dan die andern wirtzen.
Interpretation
#151 To bake good Lebkuchen
Take first a pound of sugar, a quart of clear honey, not quite a third quart of flour, take two and a half ounces of cinnamon, one and a half ounces of cloves, two ounces of cardamom. Cut the other spices as small as possible, the cinnamon sticks are ground as coarsely as possible. Also put ginger therein and put the sugar into the honey, let it cook together, put the flour in a trough, pour the cardamom into it first, afterwards the ginger and the other spices.
Ingredients
¾ cup honey
¾ cup sugar
½ cup flour
3 tbsp. cinnamon
¼ tsp. cloves
1 ½ tsp ginger - fresh if you can get it
½ tsp cardamom
Instructions
Mix together flour, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and ginger.
In a heavy-bottomed pan add sugar and honey and slowly heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. NOTE: If scum rises to the top, skim it off. This is normal when using honey.
Heat the honey and sugar mixture together until small bubbles begin to form and the syrup starts to get foamy. Approximately ten minutes.
Make a hollow in the flour and spice mixture and gently pour the honey into the hollow. Stir gently until well mixed. NOTE: This is a very sticky dough, and you may be tempted to add more flour. If you must, only add enough to allow the dough to form and no more.
Set the dough aside and allow it to cool for about 15 minutes.
While the dough is cooling, cover a cookie sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 275 degrees.
Dust hands with flour (do not forget this step or you may end up regretting your life's decisions--this dough sticks to everything!), rough your dough into a log, and section off pieces of it using a bit of waxed, unflavored floss.
Pick up a bit of the sectioned-off dough, roll it into a ball and place it on the cookie sheet. You will want to space them about 2 1/2 to 3 inches apart. Push an almond into the top of your cookie and bake for about 10 minutes. Store in an airtight container while still slightly warm.
Thoughts
OMG! These are a sticky mess, but ohhhssssooooo worth it!! They are spicy and chewy and delicious. They would be excellent to bring with you on a camping trip and are modern enough in flavor that even the most discriminating cooking connoisseur will not complain.
You do want to store them while they are still warm so they remain soft. These cookies keep for a very long time. Do try them.
Sources
"An Exact Collection Of The Choicest And More Rare Experiments And Secrets In Physick And Chyrurgery (Both Cymick And Galenick) Viz. Of Leonard Phioravant, Knight And Doctour In Physick And Chyrurgery, His Rational Secrets And Chyrurgery &C. : Whereunto Is Annexed Paracelsus's One Hundred And Fourteen Experiments : With Certain Excellent Works Of G.B. Áa Ortu Aquitano ; Also Isaac Holandus, His Secrets Concerning His Vegetal And Animal Work : With Quercetanus His Spagyrick Antidotary For Gun-Shot : Also Certain Collections Out Of Some Manuscripts Of Dr. Edwards And Other Physitians Of Note ...". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A41325.0001.001/1:39.9.6?firstpubl1=1640;firstpubl2=1660;rgn=div3;singlegenre=All;sort=occur;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=hartshorn. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.
"Cake | Etymology, Origin And Meaning Of Cake By Etymonline". Etymonline.Com, 2022, https://www.etymonline.com/word/cake. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.
Crew, Kitchen. "The History Of Cookies". Just A Pinch, 2022, https://www.justapinch.com/blog/articles/read/209514/the-history-of-cookies/. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.
"Das Kochbuch Der Sabina Welserin (C. 1553)". Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen, 2022, https://www.uni-giessen.de/fbz/fb05/germanistik/absprache/sprachverwendung/gloning/tx/sawe.htm. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.
"Sabrina_Welserin.Html". Daviddfriedman.Com, 2022, http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html. Accessed 2 Oct 2022.
