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Pizza di Molti Strati – A Renaissance Baklava-Style Pastry with Elderflower & Rosewater

Pizza di Molti Strati – A Renaissance Baklava-Style Pastry with Elderflower & Rosewater

Despite the familiar name, this 16th-century “pizza” from Scappi bears no resemblance to modern flatbreads. Instead, it’s a delicate multi-layered pastry, brushed with butter, dusted with sugar and elderflower, and bathed in rosewater syrup. It’s likely a descendant of early Middle Eastern “baklava”‑style desserts—transmitted along Silk Road routes and adopted by Italian Renaissance cooks.

Historical Background

The tradition of layered pastry desserts originates in Middle Eastern and Byzantine cuisines. A 13th-century Arabic confection called lauzinaj—almond paste wrapped in ultra-thin dough and drenched in syrup—was an early ancestor to European versions. Phyllo dough itself traces back to Ancient Greek and Ottoman pastry techniques.

By the 16th century, Italian cooks like Scappi adapted the concept into a simplified “cold layered pizza,” blending Western sugars, elderflower, and rosewater into a visually striking—yet humble—pastry.

A Historical Journey Through Layered Pastry

This “pizza di molti strati” connects to a rich, layered history of syrup-drenched pastry desserts—evolving from Greco-Roman flat cakes to Byzantine, Arabic, and Ottoman specialties, finally taking elegant form in Renaissance Italy.

  • Greco-Roman plakous & placenta – Layered pastries with dough, cheese, and honey. Cato the Elder’s placenta cake describes alternating layers of dough and cheese, baked and sweetened with honey.
  • Byzantine koptoplakous – A nut-filled, syrup-drenched cake from Constantinople, widely regarded as an early form of baklava. Cited in culinary studies on Byzantine dessert culture.
  • Arabic lauzinaj – Medieval almond paste pastries wrapped in thin dough and scented with rosewater. See: Scents and Flavors – Early Baklava Recipe.
  • Ottoman Baklava & Phyllo Mastery – Ottoman chefs refined paper-thin dough layering in imperial kitchens. Syrups, nuts, and floral waters became standard. See Baklava – Wikipedia.
  • Italian Renaissance Adaptation – Scappi’s 1570 *pizza di molti strati* replaces nuts with elderflower, and introduces a cold-serving presentation. It reflects Italy’s interpretation of a global dessert tradition.
    🍽️ What’s in a Name? A Slice of Pizza’s Etymology

    The word pizza may conjure images of tomato sauce and cheese—but its linguistic roots tell a far older story. The earliest known use dates to 997 CE in a Latin document from Gaeta, Italy, referring to a simple “focaccia”-style bread. But where the term *actually* comes from remains debated:
    • Ancient Greek pikte ("fermented pastry") or pitta ("flatbread")
    • Latin pinsa (from pinsere, “to press or flatten”)
    • Old High German bizzo or pizzo (“a bite” or “mouthful”)
    • Italian pizzicare (“to pluck” quickly from the oven)
    • Even Aramaic pita, referring to flatbread
    Linguists and food historians—like Jim Chevallier—have explored these etymologies in depth. In Scappi’s 1570 *Opera*, “pizza” still referred to a layered or folded pastry, not the tomato-covered dish we know today.

    Source: Linguistic and historical research courtesy of Jim Chevallier. For more, see discussions on Facebook and works on bread and early pizza history.

Original Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

“Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati: pigli uno foglio di pasta tirata sottile... tra ciascuno spargi burro, zucchero, ed erbe di sambuco... e quando è cotta servi fredda con zucchero e acqua di rose.”
—Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)

Modern English Translation

“To make a pizza of many layers, commonly served cold: take a sheet of pasta rolled out thin... between each one sprinkle butter, sugar, and elder flowers... and when it is cooked, serve cold with sugar and rosewater.”

Renaissance Kitchen Imagery

Scappi kitchen woodcut, Opera 1570

Woodcut from Scappi’s Opera (1570), showing layered pastry prep and kitchen tools.

“Pizza di Molti Strati” Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Ingredients

  • ½ pack filo (phyllo) dough (homemade if time allows)
  • ¼ lb butter, melted
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 Tbsp dried elderflower
  • Rosewater, to drizzle

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 400 °F (or follow filo package instructions).
  2. Keep melted butter warm. Lay one sheet of filo in a greased tart pan.
  3. Brush with butter, dust with sugar & elderflower. Layer three sheets, then repeat until 12 sheets are used, finishing with sugar & elderflower.
  4. Slice into triangles. Bake until golden brown.
  5. Let cool, then serve cold with a drizzle of rosewater.

If serving a small group, homemade phyllo is highly recommended—it adds freshness and flavor.

🌸 Floral Flourishes:
Elderflower and rosewater were prized in Renaissance kitchens for their fragrance and humoral balance. In this pastry, they elevate simple layers into something aromatic, symbolic, and beautiful.
Pizza di Molti Strati and Mele Cotogne with pine nuts

Trays of Pizza di Molti Strati and Mele Cotogne stufate con pignoli, acqua rosa, e zuccaro — quince stewed with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar — ready for service at Flaming Gryphon 12th Night, 2024.

Want to make this for your next feast? Try homemade filo—it’s elegant, surprisingly satisfying, and perfect with a cup of warm spiced tea.

Primary Source Access

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What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

🍳 What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Poached eggs in a pale milk sauce — Eyron en Pan, a medieval breakfast dish
Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed, folded directly into the dough.

While the word "breakfast" existed in medieval English, it didn’t mean what it does today. Most people in the Middle Ages ate one or two meals per day, and early meals were typically reserved for laborers, the sick, or the very wealthy. However, there were still foods enjoyed in the morning to break the night’s fast—especially during feast days, travel, or before demanding work.

This post gathers ten historically inspired dishes from primary sources like Harleian MS 279 and Renaissance German cookbooks that could have graced a medieval table in the morning hours.

⚠️ Historical Note: The term "breakfast" in the medieval world referred to the act of breaking one's fast after sleep, not a structured meal like today. Our use here reflects the modern definition: the first meal of the day.

1. Rastons

Rastons (Harleian MS 279): A rich, egg- and ale-enriched pastry loaf once mistaken for bread. Served sliced into “sops” — thick pieces of bread meant to soak up broth or milk — Rastons were an early morning or supper dish that blurred the line between bread and indulgent pastry. Perfect warm from the oven or reheated with broth poured over top.

2. Soupes Dorye

Soupes Dorye (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread sops soaked in almond milk, saffron, and warming spices. A gentle, nourishing dish, especially favored on fast days or during illness recovery—delicate, comforting, and easy to digest.

3. Lyode Soppes

Lyode Soppes (Harleian MS 279): A custardy bread pudding made with milk, egg, and warm spices. Served hot and soft, it’s one of the earliest surviving recipes for a sweet breakfast pudding—perfect for breaking a medieval fast.

4. Soupes Jamberlayne

Soupes Jamberlayne (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread soaked in spiced, sweetened wine and served warm. This elegant dish reflects the medieval love of richly flavored comfort foods, especially in noble households or for special occasions.

5. Egges yn Brewte

Egges yn Brewte (Gentyll Manly Cokere, MS Pepys 1047): Poached eggs served in a saffron-colored broth with cheese and warming spices. A refined dish likely served to the wealthy or clerics, offering protein and elegance in equal measure.

6. Eyron en Poche

Eyron en Poche (Harleian MS 279): Poached eggs served with herbs in broth or sauce—simple, nourishing, and elegant. This early morning dish reflects a refined yet accessible preparation for those with access to fresh eggs and kitchen skill.

7. Pressmetzen zu Ostern

Pressmetzen zu Ostern (Renaissance Germany): Soft Lenten rolls flavored with subtle spice and meant for Easter vigil meals. While tied to liturgical feasting, they make a fitting morning bread—especially for fast-day observance or travel.

8. Spiced Apples and Pears

Spiced Apples and Pears (Chiquart’s 'On Cookery', 1420): Fruit stewed in wine, honey, and spices—a luxurious dish found in both monastic and elite kitchens. Served warm and fragrant, it made a welcome break to the morning fast in colder months.

9. Fennel and Bacon Bread

Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A rustic yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed. This hearty loaf was likely eaten fresh in the morning or packed for travel—savory, sustaining, and deeply flavorful.

10. Frumenty and Venyson in Broth

Venyson in Broth with Frumenty (Harleian MS 279): Tender game meat in spiced broth, served with a cracked wheat porridge. Though rich by modern standards, this would have been an energizing dish for hunters or noble households before a day of labor or travel.

These dishes reveal the breadth and nuance of medieval morning meals—even if they weren't always called "breakfast" by name. Whether you’re prepping for an SCA feast, building a persona menu, or just want to try something historically inspired, these options offer a window into what it meant to break the fast in centuries past.

Want more? Explore these tags to expand your medieval breakfast table:


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Piatti de marzapani frigiati di oro - Plates of golden fried marzipan

Plates of Golden Fried Marzipan: A Renaissance Delight from Messisbugo

Among the lavish sweets presented at the 12th Night 2024 feast were these exquisite morsels: golden fried marzipan parcels inspired by Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s 16th-century banquet manual. As a court steward to the Duke of Ferrara, Messisbugo carefully documented not only recipes but the artistry of elite Renaissance dining. One such recipe, Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro, reflects both culinary skill and a love for edible ornament.

Original Italian (Messisbugo, 1549)

Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro: Prendi marzapane, et fanne certi tondi o quadrelli, et involgili in una sfoglia sottile fatta di pasta, et friggili con buon strutto caldo; et cavati che saranno, spolverizzali di zucchero, et ponli in piatti, et sopra vi metterai dell’oro fino, se vorrai fare bella cosa.

English Translation

Plates of golden fried marzipan: Take marzipan and form small rounds or squares. Wrap them in a thin pastry sheet, and fry them in good hot lard. Once they are removed, sprinkle with sugar and place them on dishes. If you wish to make a beautiful presentation, place fine gold on top.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8–12)

Ingredients

  • 1 frozen pie pastry (or homemade pastry dough)
  • 1 1/2 cups almond flour
  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • 3 tbsp water
  • 1 tsp rosewater
  • 1/2 tsp "common spices" (e.g., cinnamon, clove, nutmeg)

Instructions

  1. Roll out the pie pastry as thin as possible.
  2. Mix together almond flour, sugar, water, rosewater, and spices to form a soft marzipan dough.
  3. Cut pastry into rounds or squares. Add 1 tsp of filling to each, fold over and seal.
  4. Fry in hot oil until golden. Drain and sprinkle with sugar before serving.

Historical Context: Marzipan in Italian Renaissance Cuisine

Marzipan was considered a luxurious ingredient in Renaissance Italy, associated with wealth, celebration, and spectacle. Made from almonds and sugar—both costly imports—it was often shaped into elaborate sculptures or used in gilded dishes like this one. Serving it fried and topped with gold or saffron was a way to display status and culinary refinement.

The origins of marzipan are widely debated. Some trace it to the Middle East, introduced into Europe via Arab-Spanish cuisine, while others credit Italian apothecaries who sold almond-based pastes as medicinal treats. By the 15th and 16th centuries, it had become a staple of courtly desserts across Italy, Germany, and Iberia.

Research Note: This modern interpretation was informed in part by the Italian historical food blog Cucina Medievale, a trusted source for Italian Renaissance culinary research and one of our favorite reference sites.

Source Access

The original recipe appears in Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s Banchetti, composizioni di vivande et apparecchio generale (Venice, 1549). A digitized facsimile is available via the Internet Archive. (Note: the searchable text may be corrupted, but the PDF version is accurate.)

See all dishes from the 12th Night 2024 feast by browsing the 12th Night tag or checking out this collection.

Related Recipes: You might also enjoy Struffoli: Honeyed Fried Dough, another Renaissance sweet served alongside the marzipan at this feast.

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Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

🍯 Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

Honeyed struffoli garnished with candied fruit, served with marzipan cookies on a feast platter
Honeyed Struffoli with Candied Fruit, Served with Marzipan at the 12th Night 2024 Feast
A modern interpretation of Scappi’s 16th-century recipe, these golden morsels were served as part of the appetizer selection.

As part of the 12th Night 2024 feast, guests were greeted with beautiful trays of struffoli — crisp, golden morsels glazed in warm honey and crowned with jeweled candied fruit. This appetizer, adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 16th-century cookbook Opera, captures the festive spirit and elegant artistry of Renaissance banquet tables.

🍽️ Explore the Full Feast: See the complete 12th Night 2024 Menu to discover other historical dishes served during the event.

Scappi was a master cook to Pope Pius V, and his recipes reflect the sophistication of high court cuisine in Italy. These honeyed fritters, served cold, would have dazzled diners with their texture and ornamentation. The original text appears in Libro Quinto, Cap. CXXXV, and can be found in resources like Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina.

Scappi’s Original Italian (Cap. CXXXV):

Attanfi dieci oua fresche nate di quel giorno, & impastinsicon esse fior di farina alquanto piu liquida della fopradetta, & per fpatio di mezz’horasia ben rimenata sopra la tauola, & poi distendasi essa pasta in ruotoli sottili, come se si volesse fare ciambellette...

...con un coltello si taglierà e i ruotoli a dadi, & tagliati che saranno in gran numero, si lasceranno alquanto rasciugare, & poi con strutto che non sia troppo caldo, si friggeranno, avvertendo che non piglino troppo colore, & con la cocchiara forata cavisino, e si lascino scolare, poi habbisi una cazzuola con mele schiumato che sia ben caldo, & frigghifino in esso mele, dandoli una volta, & subito si cavino, & cavati che saranno, faccinsene castelli, & altre fantafie, & servinofreddi.

🍋 Modern Recipe: Honeyed Struffoli (Serves 8)

This version of struffoli preserves the festive spirit of Scappi's recipe while adapting it for a modern kitchen. These delightful bites can be made ahead and assembled just before serving.

Ingredients

  • 2⅔ cups flour
  • 4½ tbsp unsalted butter
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 medium eggs
  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • Zest of 1 orange
  • Zest of ½ lemon

For Garnish

  • 1⅓ cups honey
  • Silver or gold sprinkles
  • Candied cherries
  • Candied orange peel

Instructions

  1. In a large bowl, combine flour, softened butter, salt, sugar, citrus zest, lemon juice, and eggs. Mix vigorously by hand until a rough dough forms.
  2. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
  3. After chilling, divide dough into 1 cm wide ropes and roll out. Cut into small pieces, about ⅓ inch in size.
  4. Heat oil to 325°F. Fry pieces in small batches until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
  5. Warm honey gently in a pan. Add the fried pieces and stir to coat.
  6. Arrange on a platter in a mound or ring. Garnish with sprinkles and candied fruit. Serve at room temperature.

Storage Tip: Fried dough can be made up to 2–3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container and glaze with honey just before serving.

🧾 Translating Scappi: Then vs. Now

Scappi’s original recipe begins with a rich dough made from “ten fresh eggs of the day,” kneaded with fine flour until soft and elastic. Our modern version keeps the egg-based richness, but scales it for today’s kitchens—using two eggs along with butter and citrus for added aroma and softness.

Scappi instructs the cook to roll and cut the dough into “dadi” (dice), which are dried slightly and then fried in strutto (pork fat). We preserve the shape and technique but fry in neutral oil at 325°F for ease and availability. Once cooked, the pieces are tossed in “skimmed honey,” a process mirrored in our version by gently warming the honey and folding the fritters in until glazed. His final flourish—stacking the morsels into “castles and other fancies”—is echoed in our presentation, topped with candied fruit and festive sprinkles.

📚 Inspiration

This recipe was inspired by La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli and Scappi’s Opera, foundational texts in Renaissance culinary tradition.

Try Another Dish from the Feast: Don’t miss our recipe for Tortelletti d’Herba alla Lombarda, a savory herb-filled pasta that accompanied these sweet fritters at the table.

Tags: 12th Night, SCA Feast, Historical Recipes, Renaissance Cooking, Bartolomeo Scappi, Medieval Appetizer, Struffoli, Italian Holiday Food

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Feasting on Fish: Five Historical Recipes from Harleian MS 279

Five Medieval Fish Recipes from Harleian MS 279

A bowl of medieval fish stew (Iuselle of Fish) in a yellow broth, served with crusty bread, lemon slices, apples, and a root vegetable salad.
Iuselle of Fish, adapted from Harleian MS 279 — a delicate almond milk and saffron broth served with root vegetables, fruit, and rustic bread.

From fasting feasts to Friday fare, fish played a key role in medieval English cooking. Harleian Manuscript 279, compiled around 1430, contains dozens of fish recipes revealing the rich, layered flavors and creative preparations used in upper-class kitchens. Below are five standout dishes from that manuscript, all adapted or interpreted for the modern cook.

1. Tench Three Ways

Read the full recipe and interpretation

This unique entry shows off the versatility of medieval fish cookery. The tench is served boiled, in a broth, and roasted — each with different sauces or seasonings, ranging from parsley-based green sauce to a pottage enriched with almond milk and spices.

2. Mortrews of Fish

Read the full recipe and interpretation

Here, fish is cooked and then pounded smooth with breadcrumbs and flavorful ingredients like almond milk, saffron, and sugar. Served warm and thick, this dish is a satisfying meatless main and an excellent example of medieval texture-forward cooking.

3. Sturyon in Broth

Read the full recipe and interpretation

This spiced broth balances vinegar, pepper, and saffron to create a sharp yet warming sauce for chunks of fish — originally sturgeon, but modern substitutions like salmon or cod work just as well.

4. Iuschelle of Fish

Read the full recipe and interpretation

“Iuschelle” refers to a gently spiced dish, somewhere between a stew and a sauce. The fish is flaked and simmered in almond milk, saffron, and breadcrumbs, yielding a light but elegant presentation that fits well as a first course.

5. Roseye – Fish in Rose Sauce

Read the full chicken version (fish variation included)

Although your blog post features the chicken version, the original recipe allows for fish as well. The dish combines fried fish with a saffron-almond-rose sauce colored naturally with rose petals. It’s a fragrant, subtly sweet, and visually stunning dish — perfect for a final course or Lenten feast.

Historical Context

Harleian MS 279 reflects the dietary rules and creativity of the 15th-century English court. With meat forbidden during fast days, cooks leaned into fish, legumes, and dairy alternatives like almond milk. The use of fragrant spices, vinegars, and herbal sauces made these dishes anything but bland — and many remain surprisingly approachable for the modern table.

Want to Try One?

Leave a comment or tag me if you cook one of these! For printable versions, check out the recipe cards on Ko-fi. You can also browse other fasting-friendly or Lenten dishes using the tags at the bottom of each post.



🐚 More Historical Shellfish Recipes

Explore more Fish Recipes and Fasting Dishes on the blog.

Sources: Harleian MS 279, Curye on Inglysch, Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books

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Flavors of the Flower: 5 Medieval Recipes Using Edible Blooms

Flavors of the Flower: 5 Medieval Recipes Using Edible Blooms

Gilliflower woodcut from John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole (1629)

Woodcut of a Gilliflower from John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). Parkinson praised the gilliflower’s “spicy sent” and its usefulness in syrups and conserves.

In the late Middle Ages, edible flowers adorned more than just gardens—they featured prominently on elite banquet tables as key ingredients in both sweet and savory dishes. From the delicate rose and primrose to more assertive blooms like hawthorn and violet, flowers served to tint, scent, and thicken custards, broths, and pottages. These floral additions were not only visually and gastronomically appealing but also aligned with humoral theory: the belief that food's temperamental qualities could support the physical and emotional balance of the diner.

This post is a curated collection of medieval recipes that utilize edible flowers for more than just decoration. You'll find my modern take on Rede Rose, a silky custard infused with rose petals, alongside historical dishes and inspiration for planting your own edible flower garden. If you’re interested in recreating these recipes, don’t miss the section on safe modern substitutes and preservation techniques. The methods and virtues of these flowers are reflected not only in recipe manuscripts but in early gardening manuals and herbal lore—including John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole, A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

📜 Archived Reference: Medieval Herbs We Grow Chiefly as Flowers

Compiled by Agnes deLanvallei (March 2005)
Originally published at KeelerAnderson.net; now preserved via the Internet Archive.
→ View the full original table

Note: These flowers were edible in the Middle Ages, though many are no longer commonly eaten. Always verify organic, untreated sources before consuming. Individuals with allergies should avoid plants in families known to trigger reactions.

Common Name Scientific Name Family Notes / Uses
Borage Borago officinalis Boraginaceae Flowers and leaves eaten raw or cooked; safe and uplifting
Calendula (Pot Marigold) Calendula officinalis Asteraceae Used in salads and broths; petals are edible and medicinal
Carnation / Gillyflower Dianthus spp. Caryophyllaceae Edible flowers; valued for scent and beauty
Lavender Lavandula officinalis Lamiaceae Used for fragrance and culinary syrups
Rose Rosa spp. Rosaceae Petals used in syrups, custards, and conserves
Violet Viola odorata Violaceae Scented variety used in cooking and syrups
Pansy / Heartsease Viola tricolor Violaceae Safe edible flowers; used ornamentally

Original Compilation: Agnes deLanvallei, 2005. Published at KeelerAnderson.net (archived 2016).
Content adapted under fair use for educational and archival preservation. Original archive link: Wayback Machine.

Want to explore more about historical edible flowers? Visit Agnes de Lanvallei’s Medieval Herbs We Grow Chiefly as Flowers—an excellent resource on what was grown, used, and enjoyed during the period.

Section 1: Featured Recipe – Rede Rose

Rede Rose is a 15th-century English custard enriched with almond milk and egg yolks and delicately flavored with rose petals. In my interpretation, I blend the ingredients and gently cook them in a double boiler until thickened to a smooth consistency. The result is a creamy, floral custard with nostalgic charm and subtle elegance. It was well received—three taste-testers all went back for more.

🔍 Read the full Rede Rose recipe and interpretation here

Section 2: The Other Floral Recipes

Medieval cooks used flowers not just for flavor but also for fragrance, symbolism, and aesthetic beauty. The following recipes represent a variety of culinary traditions from the period—ranging from rich custards to savory pottages and festive garnishes.

Note: Some recipes were garnished with gilliflowers purely for presentation rather than flavor, such as Cawdelle Ferry and Pumpes.

Section 3: Historical Culinary Techniques for Flower-Based Dishes

Medieval kitchens employed specific techniques when preparing flower-based recipes. These methods combined practical cooking skills with the medical philosophies of the time:

  • Infusion in Liquids: Flowers such as rose, violet, primrose, and lavender were steeped in almond milk, wine, or water to extract their essence and color—techniques echoed in Parkinson and early apothecary texts.
  • Thickening Agents: Recipes often used rice flour, egg yolks, or breadcrumbs to create custard-like textures, as seen in Rede Rose and Prymerose.
  • Garnishing and Gilding: Petals like gilliflowers and calendula were added as visual flourishes—sometimes even gilded with edible gold for a luxurious touch.
  • Layering Flavors: Flowers were combined with dates, sugar, spices, and nuts to balance or enhance the dish, a technique preserved in dishes like Vyolette with Fruit and Spices.
  • Medicinal Use: Many flowers were believed to have healing properties aligned with humoral theory. For example, borage was used to “gladden the heart” and violets to cool and comfort the spirit, according to both Parkinson and early modern herbals.

Section 4: Sweet vs. Savory – Matching Flowers to Flavor Profiles

Not all flowers belong in dessert. Here's a guide to choosing edible blooms based on their flavor compatibility—paired with historical insights from John Parkinson’s Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629):

Best for Sweet Dishes:

  • Rose: Floral and fruity; used in custards, jams, and syrups. Parkinson praises it as “the chiefest flower for beauty, smell and use... the conserve of the red rose is of much use among the gentlewomen.”
  • Violets: Mildly sweet and delicate; perfect for candying and desserts. Parkinson notes, “The blew Violets are much used in Possets, Syrups, and Conserves... and to comfort the heart.”
  • Primrose: Subtly sweet; often used in custards or steeped in sweet wine. Parkinson recommends them for “comforting the brain and spirits, and sweet waters made of them refresh the senses.”
  • Gillyflowers (Clove-pinks or Carnations): Though often decorative, Parkinson remarks on their “spicy sent... good in conserves and syrups.”

Best for Savory Dishes:

  • Borage: Cucumber-like; great in salads or chilled soups. Parkinson writes, “The flowers are candied, or put into wine to exhilarate the spirits.”
  • Calendula (Marigold): Peppery and colorful; used as a saffron substitute in rice or eggs. Parkinson notes, “It is of good use to garnish meats and salads... the broth wherein it is boiled is good to comfort the heart.”
  • Chamomile: Mild apple scent; infuses well into teas or syrups. Parkinson calls it “a soother of pain and a comfort to the stomach.”
  • Lavender: Intense and perfumed; used sparingly in sugar or honey infusions. Parkinson states, “The flowers steeped in wine... do strengthen the stomach and make the heart merry.”

Section 5: Ensuring Flower Safety in the Garden

If you're planning to grow edible flowers, follow these safety tips to ensure they’re safe to eat. While medieval gardeners like Parkinson wrote at length about the virtues of each bloom, they also relied on intimate plant knowledge and seasonal observation. For modern cooks, extra caution ensures both beauty and safety at the table.

  • Use only edible species: Confirm plant identity using reputable sources. Avoid look-alikes that may be toxic.
  • Start with culinary-grade or organic seed: Many ornamental flowers are treated with pesticides and are not safe for consumption.
  • Grow organically: Avoid herbicides or synthetic sprays; opt for natural pest management or companion planting.
  • Harvest responsibly: Pick in the morning after dew has dried. Use only the petals unless the entire flower is known to be edible.
  • Clean gently: Rinse flowers in cool water and allow to dry completely before use.
  • When in doubt, leave it out: Never eat a flower unless you are certain it is edible and untreated.

For historical gardeners, flower safety was closely tied to herbal knowledge and household management. As A Book of Fruits & Flowers and A Plain Plantain both suggest, flowers were viewed as food, medicine, and memory—requiring both reverence and care.

Section 6: Preserving Flowers – Pickling, Sugaring, and Wine Infusions

Preserving flowers was a vital part of historical kitchen and apothecary life. Whether through vinegar, sugar, or wine, cooks and herbalists ensured that blossoms could be used for flavor, medicine, and beauty long after their season passed. These practices are well documented in early sources like Paradisi in Sole (1629), A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

Pickled Flowers and Floral Vinegars:

Pickling flower buds and petals added brightness to savory dishes and infused subtle floral or herbal notes into vinegars and brines.

  • Rosebuds: The 1653 manual preserves rosebuds with vinegar, cinnamon, and cloves for sauces and medicinal syrups.
  • Violets: Used in vinegar-based salads and fish sauces. Landrum notes their cooling properties and popularity in gentle syrups.
  • Primroses: Often soaked in wine or vinegar; Parkinson describes their use in “sweet waters” to comfort the brain and heart.
  • Calendula: Added to broths and herbal vinegars for its warming, cheering effect—referenced in both 17th- and 20th-century texts.

Basic historical-style pickling method:

  1. Gently rinse and blanch flower petals or buds.
  2. Place in a spiced vinegar solution (e.g., wine vinegar with cloves, mustard seed, or bay leaf).
  3. Seal in jars and allow to steep in a cool place for several days.

Sugared and Candied Flowers:

Sweet preservation was both decorative and medicinal. Candied flowers appeared on subtleties, marchpanes, and biscuits, or were simmered into syrups for drinks and electuaries.

  • Violets, Roses, Primroses, and Gilliflowers: Parkinson provides detailed instructions for conserves and sugared flowers. The 1653 book includes recipes for drying and candying blossoms for health and beauty. Landrum refers to them as “petals crystallized like poetry.”
  • Lavender & Marigold: Sometimes simmered in honey for use in preserves, or added to floral syrups.

Flowers Preserved in Wine:

Infusing wine with flowers was another way to preserve and extract flavor or medicinal value—commonly done in medieval and early modern households:

  • Hippocras: A spiced wine infusion including rose or rosemary flowers, used as both a tonic and celebration drink. Parkinson references flowered wines in courtly and apothecary contexts.
  • Primrose, Violet, Chamomile, and Borage: Often steeped in wine or ale for “cordial” effects. Landrum records borage wine to uplift the melancholy and primrose wine to refresh the mind.
  • Comfrey and Ivy: Soaked in wine with honey for use in healing tinctures—described in the 1653 manual under medicinal preserves.

Preserving flowers in wine, sugar, or vinegar allowed medieval and early modern cooks to keep a garden’s essence through the seasons—transforming fleeting blooms into shelf-stable medicines, syrups, confections, and cordials.

Historical Recipes: Flowers Preserved in Wine, Honey, and Vinegar

Early modern herbal and household texts provide us with several detailed methods for preserving edible flowers. These examples are drawn from Paradisi in Sole, A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653), The Good Huswifes Jewell (1596), and Grace Landrum’s A Plain Plantain (1911).

🍷 Flowers in Wine
  • Primrose Wine: Steep fresh primrose petals in white wine with sugar. Strain and bottle after several days. Described in Parkinson as a cordial “to comfort the brain and spirits.”
  • Borage Wine: Borage flowers were infused in white wine or ale with citrus peel and honey—used to cheer the heart and “drive away melancholy.” Mentioned by Landrum and Parkinson.
🍯 Flowers in Honey or Syrup
  • Syrup of Violets: From the 1653 manual. Pound violet petals, steep in warm water, strain, and simmer with sugar. Used for coughs or to sweeten medicinal drinks.
  • Honey of Roses: Parkinson includes this soothing preparation. Rose petals are simmered in honey, then strained and stored. Used for ulcers, throat comfort, or cooling electuaries.
🍇 Flowers in Vinegar
  • Violet Vinegar: Found in The Good Huswifes Jewell. Violets steeped in wine vinegar with herbs, used for dressing sallets (salads) and preserving greens.
  • Marigold Vinegar: Cited in both Parkinson and the 1653 text. Fresh calendula petals steeped in warm vinegar and used in broths, sauces, or as a remedy “to comfort the heart.”

Further Reading: Of March Violets

Explore the poetic and symbolic legacy of violets in “Of March Violets”, a companion piece reflecting on the fragrance, folklore, and meaning of this beloved bloom in medieval and modern imagination.

Whether you're reconstructing a medieval banquet or adding floral flair to a modern meal, edible flowers are a fragrant and flavorful way to connect with the past. These recipes remind us that beauty and sustenance were deeply intertwined in historical cuisine—and they invite us to continue that legacy in our own kitchens today.

⚠️ Reminder: Always use organically grown or culinary-grade flowers. Never consume flowers from florists or treated ornamental plants.

References & Resources

  • Parkinson, John. Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris (1629). A foundational English gardening text blending botanical, culinary, and medicinal knowledge. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • A Book of Fruits & Flowers (1653). A 17th-century household manual offering flower-based recipes for food, drink, and medicine. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • Landrum, Grace Warren. A Plain Plantain: A Book of Herbal Lore (1911). A lyrical exploration of flower symbolism, history, and folklore. Read on Project Gutenberg.
  • Dawson, Thomas. The Good Huswifes Jewell (1596). A Tudor-era cookbook that includes floral syrups, vinegars, and herbal remedies. Read on Internet Archive.
  • British Museum Blog. “How to Cook a Medieval Feast: 11 Recipes from the Middle Ages.” britishmuseum.org
  • Recipes Project Blog. “Distilling Violets: Women's Recipes and Domestic Knowledge.” recipes.hypotheses.org
  • Wikipedia. “Four Thieves Vinegar.” Historical herbal vinegar recipe linked to plague lore. en.wikipedia.org
  • MedievalCookery.com. Offers searchable transcriptions of period cookbooks. medievalcookery.com
  • Of March Violets. A historical and poetic exploration of violets, including a period recipe for Oil of Violets.
  • The Past is a Foreign Pantry. A blog exploring medieval and early modern foodways. thepastisaforeignpantry.com
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Itria – Sesame Seed Biscuit & >Basyniai – Fig and Walnut Cakes Ancient Roman Sweets

Itria – Sesame Seed Biscuit

Course: Mensa Secunda (Dessert)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Cooled, end of meal
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Sesame and honey confections were a beloved Roman treat, often enjoyed at the end of a banquet. The Greek "pasteli" and Roman "iritia" (or "itria") bear close resemblance to these nut-and-seed sweets, sometimes served wrapped or portioned as single bites for the convivium’s conclusion.

Modern Interpretation

Ingredients

  • 1 cup sesame seeds
  • 3/4 cup chopped mixed nuts
  • 3/4 cup clear honey

Instructions

  1. Toast sesame seeds and nuts at 350°F until lightly golden.
  2. Boil honey, skim, and simmer gently for 7 minutes.
  3. Stir in toasted seeds and nuts, mix well.
  4. Spread into greased tray to cool slightly, then shape into balls.
  5. Wrap in paper pieces. Serve at the end of the meal with fruit.

Basyniai – Fig and Walnut Cakes

Course: Mensa Secunda (Dessert)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

These pastries reflect Rome’s love for sweets combining fruit, nuts, and honey—often fried and drenched in syrup. Figs and walnuts were common ingredients, symbolic of both prosperity and fertility. Variants of this style appear in both Roman and Greek sources, sometimes folded in dough or layered like modern baklava.

Modern Interpretation

Pastry Ingredients

  • 7 oz flour
  • 2 oz olive oil
  • 3 oz water

Filling Ingredients

  • 3 oz walnuts
  • 1 oz dried figs
  • Olive oil for frying
  • 3 oz warmed honey

Instructions

  1. Combine flour, oil, and water. Knead into smooth dough and let rest 1 hour.
  2. Grind walnuts and figs into thick paste.
  3. Roll out dough thinly and cut into 2.5" rounds. Add 1 tsp filling, seal with another round.
  4. Fry in oil until golden. Drain and drizzle with honey. Serve warm.
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Krambe – Roman Cabbage Salad with Ancient Dressing

Krambe – Roman Cabbage

Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm or cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

“Krambe,” the Latin word for cabbage, refers to a humble yet important vegetable in the Roman diet. Cabbage was not only a staple food but also valued for its supposed medicinal properties. Roman authors like Cato the Elder praised cabbage as a preventative against disease, and Apicius included several variations in his culinary writings.

This particular preparation features a simple but flavorful dressing of oil, wine, and spices—showcasing Roman balance between taste and practicality.

Modern Interpretation

This version softens the cabbage by boiling, then combines it with classic Roman seasonings for a zesty, herbed side dish.

Ingredients

  • 1 medium cabbage
  • 3 oz olive oil
  • 1 tbsp liquamen (or substitute fish sauce)
  • 1 tbsp white wine
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds
  • 1 small onion, finely sliced
  • Coriander, salt, and pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. Boil cabbage in water 15–20 minutes until tender.
  2. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again, and chop finely.
  3. In a bowl, mix olive oil, wine, liquamen, onion, and spices.
  4. Pour dressing over cabbage and mix thoroughly. Serve warm or chilled.

Sources

  • Apicius – De Re Coquinaria (LacusCurtius): Full Latin & English Text
  • Cato the Elder, De Agricultura: brief mention of cabbage as medicine
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Roman Chickpeas with Saffron – Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis

Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
 Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis – Chickpeas with Saffron

Historical Background

Chickpeas (erebinthoi) were a staple in Roman kitchens and often flavored simply to let their natural taste shine. This dish appears in sources such as Galen and Celsus, referencing medicinal and nutritional uses of legumes. The addition of saffron—an elite, aromatic spice—suggests a refined table.

Did You Know?
Saffron was so precious in Roman times that it was sometimes scattered in theaters or used as perfume in wealthy homes. Its use here elevates a humble legume.

Modern Interpretation

This simple recipe allows the creamy chickpeas to shine, while saffron lends fragrance and color. It's best served warm and is ideal for modern feasts that aim to balance richness with legume-based fare.

Ingredients

  • 6 ounces dried chickpeas
  • A generous pinch of saffron
  • Salt

Instructions

  1. Soak chickpeas overnight in cold water.
  2. Drain and place in a heavy saucepan with 2 pints of fresh water and a pinch of salt.
  3. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and add the saffron.
  4. Cover and cook gently for at least 1 hour until the chickpeas are tender. Serve warm.

Sources & Further Reading

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Roman Smoked Pork with Must Cakes – Petaso paro Mustacei

Petaso paro Mustacei – Smoked Pork with Sweet Wine Cakes

Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Petaso, or pork, was widely enjoyed in Ancient Rome. In this dish, it is sweetened with honey and figs and served alongside mustacei—wine cakes traditionally baked atop bay leaves for flavor. These cakes were often served at celebrations, symbolizing hospitality and indulgence. Recipes for mustacei appear in Cato the Elder's De Agri Cultura, one of the oldest surviving Latin texts.

Did You Know?
Mustaceum comes from "mustum"—fresh grape must—used to flavor celebratory cakes in Roman weddings and feasts.

Modern Interpretation

Ingredients – Pork & Broth

  • 2 pounds smoked ham
  • 2 ½ cups pearl barley
  • 10 dried figs
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 10 peppercorns
  • 1 cup honey

Instructions

  1. Soak ham overnight. Discard water.
  2. In a pot, cover ham with fresh water. Add barley, figs, celery, peppercorns, and ½ cup honey.
  3. Boil, skim, and simmer for 1 hour. Remove meat and reserve broth. Cool, then glaze with remaining ½ cup honey.

Sweet Wine Sauce

  • 1 ¼ cups red wine
  • 1 ¼ cups raisin wine (or substitute sweet red wine)
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper
  1. Simmer wines and pepper until reduced slightly. Serve as sauce with pork.

Sweet Wine Cakes (Mustacei)

  • 2 cups flour
  • 2 tbsp lard
  • 2 oz grated cheese
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp aniseed
  • 3–4 tbsp red wine
  • Bay leaves
  • ½ tsp dried yeast
  1. Rub lard into flour. Mix in cheese, cumin, and aniseed.
  2. Dissolve yeast in wine with bay leaf. Remove bay leaf and mix into flour.
  3. Knead dough, divide into 8, shape into buns. Place on greased tray. Cover and let rise 1½ hrs.
  4. Bake at 375°F for 25–30 minutes until golden.

Serving Suggestions

Slice glazed pork and serve with the wine reduction sauce and a warm mustaceum. Ideal paired with olives or soft cheese for a full Roman plate.

Sources

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Piadina – Roman Flatbread Inspired by Apicius

Piadina – Roman Flatbread

Course: Bread
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm or Room Temperature
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Piadina is a simple flatbread with roots in ancient Roman and Etruscan cuisine. Early references describe breads baked on hot stones or iron discs. Roman soldiers and farmers alike relied on this versatile bread, which could be prepared quickly without an oven. Today, its legacy continues in the flatbreads of central Italy.

Modern Interpretation

This version of piadina uses only basic ingredients—flour, fat, salt, and water—and cooks quickly on a griddle or open fire, making it ideal for period events with limited kitchen access.

Ingredients

  • 3 cups flour
  • 3 tbsp olive oil or lard
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Warm water (about 1 cup, added gradually)

Instructions

  1. Mix flour and salt in a large bowl.
  2. Add olive oil or lard and mix until crumbly.
  3. Slowly add warm water while mixing to form a smooth dough.
  4. Divide into 6–8 balls, flatten, and roll into ¼-inch thick rounds.
  5. Cook on a hot griddle or pan until bubbles appear and each side is golden (about 2–3 minutes per side).

Note: These flatbreads are best eaten fresh but can also be stored and reheated briefly.

Serving Suggestions

Pair with Cucumeres (Braised Cucumber), Lucanicae (grilled Sausages), Epityrum (olives), and Moretum (herbed Cheese spread) to create a Roman Dayboard, or platter. 

Sources

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Moretum – Roman Herbed Cheese Spread from Antiquity

Moretum – Roman Herbed Cheese Spread

Course: Gustum (Appetizer)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Historical Background

Moretum was a common Roman dish combining fresh herbs, garlic, cheese, vinegar, and olive oil. The recipe appears in a short Latin poem once attributed to Virgil, describing a farmer preparing this flavorful spread as part of his daily breakfast. Its name likely comes from the mortar used to pound and mix the ingredients.

Did You Know?
The Moretum poem details the rustic preparation of this dish and includes an ode to garlic. It offers a vivid look into the humble meals of rural Romans.

For an English translation of the Moretum poem, see the Poetry in Translation version here.

Modern Interpretation

This version uses pecorino romano and fresh herbs like coriander and celery leaf to evoke the original blend. It’s simple, pungent, and perfect with bread.

Ingredients

  • ½ head garlic (approx. 10 cloves)
  • 3½ oz. pecorino romano cheese
  • 1 small bunch fresh coriander (cilantro)
  • 1½ stalks celery, with leaf
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp olive oil

Instructions

  1. Peel and roughly chop the garlic.
  2. Grate the cheese and chop the herbs and celery.
  3. Combine all ingredients in a food processor or mortar and pestle.
  4. Blend or mash until smooth and well combined.
  5. Serve with crusty bread at room temperature.

Sources

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Epityrum – Seasoned Olives from Ancient Rome (Apicius)

Epityrum – Roman Herbed Olive Spread

Course: Gustum (Appetizer)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast

Ancient Roman Olive Spread - Epityrum

Historical Background

Epityrum is a Roman olive paste found in De Agri Cultura by Cato the Elder. A mix of olives, herbs, and vinegar, it was served as a flavorful appetizer. It highlights the Roman love of seasoned preserves and showcases the Mediterranean pantry of antiquity.

Did You Know?
Cato writes: “Lucanicae are so called because soldiers learned to prepare them from the Lucanians...” Oops! That’s for sausages. For Epityrum, he writes: “Pound green, black, or mottled olives. Add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint.”

Read the digitized text at the Perseus Digital Library – Cato’s De Agri Cultura.

Modern Interpretation

This version captures the herbal punch of the original while using accessible pantry ingredients.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup pitted black or green olives (or a mix)
  • 1 tsp white wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • ½ tsp dried coriander
  • ½ tsp ground cumin
  • ¼ tsp fennel seed
  • Pinch of dried mint
  • Pinch of dried rue or substitute arugula
  • Salt to taste

Instructions

  1. Crush the olives roughly using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
  2. Add oil, vinegar, and all herbs/spices. Mix into a coarse paste.
  3. Taste and adjust seasoning. Store with a thin layer of olive oil on top.

Serving Suggestions

Serve with rustic bread, Piadina, or crackers alongside cheese and Roman sausage for a full gustatio experience.

Sources

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