Potash: The Ashes That Raised a Nation
Long before baking powder revolutionized home kitchens, early American bakers demonstrated their ingenuity by using potash—an alkaline residue from wood ash—as a leavening agent. Extracted from hearth ashes, potash enabled cooks to prepare lighter breads and cakes, showcasing their resourcefulness before the advent of commercial yeast or baking soda.
This article builds on our previous piece ‘From Ashes to Antlers’ , which explored the historical use of various natural materials in early American kitchens. Let's take a closer look at potash's role in early American kitchens.
What Is Potash?
Early American cooks made potash (potassium carbonate) by soaking hardwood ashes in water to create lye, then boiling the liquid until it yielded a solid alkaline salt. The name "potash" comes from this process of boiling ashes in pots.
Lye Safety and Myths
- Is lye dangerous? In concentrated form, yes. Historical potash lye was milder but still required care.
- Safe to eat? Yes, when neutralized adequately with acid. The reaction produces water and carbon dioxide.
- Make it today? It's possible, but use gloves and eye protection.
- Myth: "Lye is poison." → Truth: It was a standard kitchen tool for soap, pretzels, and baking.
The Chemistry of Potash Leavening
Potash requires an acid (such as molasses or sour milk) to create carbon dioxide, which helps lift the dough. This simple reaction laid the foundation for early quick breads.
- Source: Hardwood ash
- Type: Potassium carbonate
- Reaction: Potash + Acid → CO₂ → Rise
What Is Pearl Ash?
Pearl ash is refined potash. Makers dissolved potash in water, filtered it, and evaporated the solution to create a whiter, cleaner salt ideal for baking delicate cakes.
- Potash: Crude wood ash residue
- Pearl Ash: Refined, purified potash
- Used in: Gingerbread, sponge cake, biscuits
Historic Use in Recipes
Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery (1796) frequently used pearl ash with acidic ingredients. Below is a modern version of her gingerbread recipe.
Gingerbread with Pearl Ash
- 1 cup molasses
- 1/2 cup sour cream or buttermilk
- 1 tsp pearl ash (or baking soda)
- 1 tbsp ground ginger
- 2.5–3 cups flour
Instructions: Mix pearl ash with sour cream. Stir in molasses and ginger. Add flour gradually. Bake at 350°F for 20–25 minutes.
Other Recipes Using Potash
Beyond gingerbread, early American bakers showcased the versatility of potash in a variety of recipes where mild sweetness and dense structure were welcome. Typical dishes included molasses cakes, Johnnycakes (cornmeal flatbreads), spice biscuits, and hoecakes. These recipes often relied on potash for rise when eggs were scarce or sour milk was abundant. Amelia Simmons and other early cookbooks also mention "loaf cakes" and "crackers" leavened with potash or pearl ash, highlighting its wide range of uses.
From Hearth to Pantry: How Baking Powder Changed Everything
The introduction of baking powder in the mid-19th century marked a significant turning point in the history of baking. Potash-leavened goods tend to have a slightly soapy or alkaline note if not carefully balanced with acid. The texture was often denser, with a subtle chewiness, especially in quick breads and cakes. Baking powder, by contrast, offered a more neutral flavor and consistently resulted in a lighter crumb. It allowed bakers to move away from strong molasses and buttermilk flavors used to balance potash, resulting in the sweeter, fluffier cakes familiar today.
Regional Variations in Potash Use
The use of potash varied across the colonies. In the Northeast and Appalachian regions, where hardwood forests were abundant and molasses was a common sweetener, potash remained in use longer—especially among rural homesteads. In German- and Dutch-influenced areas like Pennsylvania, cooks developed refined versions of traditional baked goods (such as honey cakes and lebkuchen) using pearl ash. Southern cooks were more likely to switch earlier to baking soda and sour milk once commercial supply chains improved.
Comparison of Leaveners
| Leavener | Source | Needs Acid? | Use | Flavor | Consistency |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Potash | Wood ash | Yes | Breads | Alkaline | Unrefined |
| Pearl Ash | Refined potash | Yes | Cakes | Mild | Reliable |
| Baking Powder | Commercial blend | No | All baking | Neutral | Very consistent |
Griddle Cakes Before Johnnycakes: A Historical Comparison
Medieval Flat Cakes (14th–15th c.)
Source: Le Ménagier de Paris (1393)
Typical Ingredients: Wheat flour, milk or water, egg (optional)
Cooking Method: Griddled on a flat iron, stone, or in a pan with fat
“Make a paste with white flour and warm water... roll thin and bake on the iron.”
These cakes were simple and unleavened, sometimes brushed with fat or sprinkled with sugar. Texture would be dense and chewy. A modern interpretation uses wheat flour and warm water to form a thick dough, rolled or patted thin, then cooked on a dry or greased skillet.
Early Modern Pancakes (16th c.)
Source: A Proper Newe Booke of Cokerye (c. 1557)
Typical Ingredients: White flour, eggs, milk or ale/wine, spices
Cooking Method: Fried on a griddle or pan with butter/lard
“To make pancakes. Take two or three eggs, a dish of flour, and half a pint of milk. Beat them together and fry them in butter.”
These pancakes were thinner, lighter, and crispier—thanks to the addition of eggs and sometimes alcohol. A modern version might whisk 2 eggs, 1 cup flour, and ½ cup ale or milk, then fry in a buttered pan until golden.
Colonial Johnnycakes (17th–18th c.)
Source: Indigenous North American cooking, adapted by colonists
Typical Ingredients: Cornmeal, water or milk, salt, fat or molasses
Optional Leavening: Potash or pearl ash
Cooking Method: Griddled, stone-baked, or pan-fried
“Indian meal, scalded, mixed with salt, milk, or cream, and baked on a griddle or board.” — Amelia Simmons, 1796
Colonial johnnycakes often used hot water to soften cornmeal, sometimes with milk or sweeteners. When leavened with potash, they developed a slightly fluffy interior with a crisp outer crust.
Summary: Griddle Cake Evolution
| Period | Dish | Grain Base | Leavening | Fat Used | Texture | Region |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 14th c. | Iron cakes / wafers | Wheat | None | None or lard | Dense, flat | France, England |
| 16th c. | Pancakes | Wheat | Eggs | Butter/lard | Thin, crisp | England |
| 17th–18th c. | Johnnycakes | Cornmeal | None or potash | Drippings or none | Crisp outside, tender inside | Colonial America |
Timeline of Leavening
- Pre-1600s: Natural fermentation
- 1600s–1700s: Potash use in breads
- 1796: Pearl ash in American Cookery
- 1830s: Hartshorn for cookies
- 1850s: Commercial baking powders introduced
- 1880s+: Double-acting powders dominate
Where to Find Historical Leaveners Today
If you're interested in experimenting with historic recipes, you can still obtain several early leavening agents with care. Be sure to use only food-grade versions, and always follow recipes that include appropriate acidic ingredients when working with alkaline leaveners like potash or pearl ash.
Reputable Sources
- Pearl Ash (Food-grade Potassium Carbonate):
- Lehman's: Carries pearl ash suitable for reenactment or heritage baking
- Amazon: Search for “potassium carbonate, food-grade” (check vendor reviews) - Hartshorn (Ammonium Carbonate):
- King Arthur Baking: Sold as “Baker’s Ammonia”
- Amazon: Look for “Baker’s Ammonia” or “Hartshorn” (food-grade only) - Potash (Historical or DIY):
- True culinary-grade historical potash is rare. For educational or reenactment use, you can try making it at home from hardwood ashes.
- Permies Forum Guide: Practical advice on making your own potash safely
⚠️ Note: Commercial potash sold for fertilizer or soapmaking is not food-safe. Always verify the product is labeled for culinary use before baking.
To explore more, read From Ashes to Antlers.
More Forgotten LeavenersDiscover hartshorn and other historic techniques in our full guide.
Browse all leavening articles here.
