Dry Peaches and Red Quince Paste served at Curia Regis (9/10/2017)

To Dry Peaches – 17th-Century Fruit Paste (Hannah Wolley, 1670)

Originally published 9/16/17. Updated 9/19/2025.

Golden peach pastes adapted from Hannah Wolley’s Queen-Like Closet (1670): jewel-bright confections, oven or dehydrator friendly, ideal for SCA feasts.

This sweet preserve comes from The Queen-Like Closet (1670), a cookbook and household guide by Hannah Wolley. While late for the SCA timeline, her preserving methods represent skills widely practiced in the 16th and 17th centuries—perfectly in line with late-period banquet fare.

About Hannah Wolley

Hannah Wolley (1622–c.1674) was among the first Englishwomen to make a career from writing. She was the first to publish cookery books under her own name, the first to openly market them to servants and housewives as well as the gentry, and one of the earliest women in England to claim authorship professionally. Her career began with The Ladies Directory (1661) and The Cook’s Guide (1664), before culminating in The Queen-Like Closet (1670). The latter went through multiple editions, was translated into German, and became her best-known work. She blended recipes for food, preserves, and medicines, establishing herself as the “Martha Stewart” of her day.

What Kind of Peaches?

In 17th-century England, peaches were a luxury fruit, grown in walled gardens or imported at high cost. Period peaches were closer to older European cultivars: smaller, firmer, often slightly tart, and prized for their fragrance. They were valued in preserves where structure and color mattered as much as flavor.

• Period style: Older white-fleshed clingstone peaches (smaller, firmer).
• Modern substitutes: White peaches (delicate, aromatic), yellow peaches (bright amber color), or apricots (documented in the original recipes).
• Practical feast kitchen: Frozen peaches or reconstituted dried apricots work beautifully when fresh fruit is out of season.

Sources in Period

CCXV. To dry Apricocks. Take your fairest Apricocks and stone them... boil them till they are clear... lay them out upon Glasses to dry in a stove, and turn them twice a day.

CCI. To dry Apricocks or Pippins to look as clear as Amber. Take Apricocks... set them into a warm Oven... every day turn them till they be quite dry. Thus you may dry any sort of Plumbs or Pears as well as the other, and they will look very clear.

—Hannah Wolley, The Queen-Like Closet (1670)

Editor’s Note: Although Hannah Wolley’s Queen-Like Closet (1670) is technically outside the SCA’s 1600 cut-off, the method of drying fruits with sugar syrup was already well established centuries earlier. Wolley’s text preserves a technique that was in active use during the medieval and Renaissance periods, even if not written down until her time.

• 14th century – Forme of Cury (c.1390): preserves and sugared fruits appear.
• 15th century – Harleian MS. 279 (c.1430): recipes for fruit pastes and conserves.
• 16th century – Platina and Scappi describe sugared fruits, marmalades, and pastes on elite banquet tables.
• 17th century – Hannah Wolley records these long-standing practices in print (1670).

This timeline shows that while Wolley’s printed version is late, the preservation technique itself is “in period” and entirely appropriate for SCA feasts.

Menu Placement

Dried fruits and fruit pastes were served as part of the banquet course—the sweets and subtlety table that followed the main meal. They also travel well, making them practical for camping feasts today.

Humoral Notes

According to humoral theory, peaches were considered cold & moist. Drying them and cooking them with sugar shifted them toward balance, making them more wholesome. Serving them with warming spices like cinnamon or ginger further balanced their nature.

Modern Recipe: Peach Paste “Amber Jellies”

Original Text (1670)

CCXV. To dry Apricocks. Take your fairest Apricocks and stone them... boil them till they are clear... lay them out upon Glasses to dry in a stove, and turn them twice a day.

CCI. To dry Apricocks or Pippins to look as clear as Amber. ...strew them over with fine Sugar, set them into a warm Oven... every day turn them till they be quite dry...

Modern Adaptation

Yield: about 24 small pieces (mini-muffin tin or slab)
Time: 30–40 min cook + 4–8 hrs drying

Ingredients

• 1 lb fresh peaches, peeled & sliced (or 1 lb frozen; or ~18 oz dried apricots reconstituted in apple juice)
• 2 apples, peeled, cored & sliced (pippins if available)
• 1/2 cup sugar (use 1/4 cup for softer pastes, up to 3/4 cup for firmer, candy-like results)
• Optional: 1–2 tsp rosewater or orange flower water; pinch of ground ginger or cinnamon

Method

1. Simmer peaches and apples with just enough water to cover until very soft.
2. Drain, purée, and pass through a fine sieve for maximum clarity.
3. Return to pan with sugar (and rosewater or spice, if using). Boil gently, stirring, until a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a furrow that slowly closes (thick paste stage).
4. Spread in a thin, even layer (¼–⅜″) on parchment-lined trays, or portion into oiled molds for shapes.
5. Dry at the oven’s lowest setting (≈170–175°F) 4–8 hrs (longer if humid) until firm but slightly tacky. A dehydrator also works.
6. Cut or unmold, dust lightly with sugar, and layer with parchment in an airtight tin.

Notes & Substitutions

• Fruit: Apricots, pears, apples, or plums may be prepared the same way.
• Firmness: More sugar = firmer, clearer pastes; less sugar = softer jellies.
• Flavors: For a period flourish, add a splash of rosewater or a pinch of ginger/cinnamon during the final boil.
• Presentation: Shape pastes in gemstone candy molds for jewel-like subtleties, or small round molds for comfit-style lozenges.
• Storage: Dust lightly with sugar and layer between parchment in an airtight tin; keeps several weeks.

💎 Banquet Hack: Bring your feast table to life with period-inspired tools! Add rosewater for authentic flavor, and use gemstone molds or round candy molds to create jewel-bright sweets that echo 17th-century subtleties.

🥕 Dietary Notes: Naturally gluten-free · Vegetarian · Vegan · Common-allergen friendly

🍽️ More from the Curia Lunch

• Curia Regis Brunch Hub
• Egges yn Brewte
• Savoury Tostyde
• Gammon of Bacon
• Eisands with Oatmeale Groats
• Funges
• Chawatteys
• To Stew Shrimps
• A Fryed Meate (Pancakes)
• Compost
• To Dry Peaches
• Orange Marmalade
• Rose Conserve
• Comfits of Anise, Caraway & Fennel
• Quidinia of Quinces (Quince Paste)

Sources

• Hannah Wolley, The Queen-Like Closet (1670). EEBO facsimile: To dry Apricocks / Pippins.

Originally published: 2017  |  Updated: 2025-09-19