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Kitchen Adventures – Pork Custard (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.lvj. Charlette)

.lvj. Charlette - Pork Custard
Todays culinary adventure from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin was a pair of related dishes consisting of meat cooked in milk.  The name itself means meat-milk --char - for flesh and lette for milk.  The first dish was a bit more favorably received then the second dish. There are recipes for dishes called "milk meats" similar to  Milke Rostys.
This might make a good breakfast dish, but it is thoroughly unappetizing to look at and I'm afraid the modern diner might have to be "talked into" giving it a try. In fact, we did place this on our list of least favorite dishes that we have tried and on the "too period for modern tastes" list.

That being said, you should try this recipe if for nothing else, the experience of putting this dish together. I'm sure additional seasonings would improve the taste, if not the look. What the dish turns out to be is a kind of "cheese" with bits of egg and meat, held together by the cheese which is created when the acid, ale, in this case comes to a boil. Be sure to chill this before attempting to slice it, otherwise it crumbles. The broth then should be piping hot when you pour it over the slices to reheat them.  

I couldn't imagine trying to create this the day of an event.  I would recommend if you are going to try this dish you create the charlette the day before the event so it has a chance to drain and cool completely. You may want to prepare extra, in case the slices fall apart.  

.lvj. Charlette.—Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; þan hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, noȝt to fatte, alle smal, an kaste þer-to; þan take Eyroun, þe whyte an the ȝolke, & draw þorw a straynoure; an whan þe lycoure ys in boyling, caste þer-to þin Eyroun and Ale, & styre it tylle it Crodde; þan presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste þer-on broþe of Beeff or of Capoun.

lvj - Charlette. Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; than hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, no3t to fatte, alle smal, an kaste ther-to; than take Eyroun, the whyte an the 3olke, and draw thorw a straynoure; an whan the lycoure ys in boyling, caste ther-to thin Eyroun and Ale, and styre it tylle it Crodde; than presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste ther-on brothe of Beeff or of Capoun.

56 - Charlette - Take milk and cast on a pot, with salt and saffron enough; then hew fair butts of calf or pork, not to fat, all small, and caste there-to; then take eggs, the white and the yolks and draw through a strainer: and when the liquor is boiling, caste there-to your eggs and ale, and stir it till it curd; then press it a little with a platter, and serve forth; save, caste there-on broth of beef or of capon.

Interpreted Recipe                                                          Makes approximately six 1" slices 

1 cup milk
1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)
Salt to taste
Pinch of saffron
2 eggs
2 tbsp. ale
1/4 cup chicken stock 

Simmer the meat in the milk with the salt and saffron until it has cooked through.  In the meantime, beat the eggs with the ale.  When the meat has cooked completely bring the milk to a boil and throw in the egg and ale mixture.  Stir constantly to prevent burning and sticking.  After a minute you will see the milk and eggs beginning to form curds.  Continue to stir for about five more minutes and remove from heat.  Let sit for five more minutes. 

Line a sieve with cheesecloth and pour the meat and egg mixture into it.  Fold the cheesecloth over and weight with a plate. I used a couple of 28 ounce cans to continue to press the mixture and strain out the whey, just like you would do if you were making cheese.  Remove from the sieve and place on a tray and into a fridge to allow to cool completely.  

Once the charlette is cooled completely, slice it into slices and set the slices in a bowl. I used "two" slices for a main dish, so this recipe would serve three as a main. They are very substantial.  Cover with chicken or beef stock that has been brought to a rolling boil, and serve. 

Similar Recipes


.xxxix. Charlet. Tak pork & seeth it wel, hewe hit smal, cast it in a panne, breke ayroun & do therto & swynge hit wel to geder, do therto cow mylk & safroun & boyle it to gyder, salt hit and messe hit forth.


Charlet. Take sweete cowe mylk, and put into a panne, and cast in therto zolkes of eyren and the white also, and fothen porke brayed, and sage; and let hit boyle tyl hit crudde, and colour it with saffron, and dresse hit up, and serve hit forthe.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)


To mak charlet tak freche porke and sethe it and swing eggs ther withe then hewe the pork smalle and boile it in swet mylk and serue it.



Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Drawyn Grwel) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .xxiiij. Drawyn grwel - Tempered Gruel
The picture does not do the dish justice. It was much browner in the bowl.

Drawyn Grwel: A Rich and Flavorful Medieval Gruel from Harleian MS. 279

Introduction

After revisiting medieval gruel recipes for an earlier article on gruelle a-forsydde—fortified gruel enriched with pork—I found myself intrigued by a second recipe in the same manuscript. Listed as .xxiiij. Drawyn Grwel in Harleian MS. 279 (ca. 1430), this version takes the idea of gruel even further by incorporating lean beef, fresh herbs, and blood for richness and color. What emerged was not a bland peasant porridge, but a deeply savory, unexpectedly luxurious dish.

This interpretation became an instant favorite among my taste testers. One exclaimed that it “smells like biscuits and gravy in here,” and another insisted I promise to make it again. “Spoon wars” ensued over the last bites. Despite the humble ingredients, this was hearty, flavorful, and worthy of being served at any historical feast or reenactment camp.

In this post, we’ll explore the original Middle English recipe, examine its historical context, and share a practical modern adaptation that keeps its rich medieval soul intact.

What is Drawyn Grwel?

Drawyn Grwel—sometimes translated as “Tempered Gruel” or “Strained Gruel”—refers to a variation of oat soup that was enriched, then drawn through a strainer to create a smooth, refined consistency. This was not everyday peasant fare. The inclusion of lean beef, herbs like parsley and sage, and blood for coloring suggest a dish that had both nutritional and ceremonial importance.

In the culinary vocabulary of the 15th century, “drawyn” meant not only straining but also refining or purifying. Medieval cooks often strained soups and stews to remove tough particles or impurities, resulting in a smoother, more palatable final product. This preparation aligns with the period's emphasis on clarity and refinement in dishes served to noble households or for special occasions.

About Spelling Variations

Spelling in medieval manuscripts was far from standardized, and the word “gruel” is a perfect example. Across different texts, you may encounter it as grewel, gruelle, grwel, or gruell. These variations all refer to similar oat-based dishes and do not reflect distinct recipes. In this article, we preserve the original spelling as found in Harleian MS. 279—“grwel”—to maintain historical accuracy, while acknowledging the broader family of terms that modern readers may search for or recognize.

Historical Recipe from Harleian MS. 279

Original Middle English:

.xxiiij. Drawyn grwel.—Take fayre water an lene Bef, an let hem boyle; an whan þe beef hath y-boylid, take it vp an pyke it, an lete it blede in-to a vessel, an þenne caste þe blode an þe Fleysshe in-to a potte; an þanne caste þer-to Otemele, Percely, & Sawge, an make þer-of an gode grwele; þen draw it þorw a straynowre, an putte it on a fayre potte, an let it boyle; þanne caste þer-to Salt; An ȝif it be nowt brown y-now, take a litil blode an caste þer-to or it be y-draw, an make it broun y-now, an serue it forth.

Modern English Translation:

24. Strained Gruel — Take clean water and lean beef, and let them boil. When the beef has boiled, take it out and pick it, letting it bleed into a vessel. Then place the blood and the flesh into a pot. Add oatmeal, parsley, and sage to make a good gruel. Strain it through a strainer, place it into a clean pot, and let it boil. Then add salt. If it is not brown enough, add a little blood before straining to give it more color, and serve it forth.

Commentary:

This recipe offers a fascinating glimpse into 15th-century culinary practices. The dish starts by boiling lean beef to extract flavor and clarify the meat. The inclusion of blood—both to enrich the flavor and to enhance the color—is typical of the time, particularly in dishes meant to impress or nourish. Oatmeal serves as the base thickener, while parsley and sage provide herbal brightness. The straining step refines the final texture, indicating that this gruel was meant to be smooth, elegant, and suitable for upper-class tables or healing diets.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

  • 4 cups water
  • 1 pound ground beef or finely chopped lean stewing beef
  • 2 cups beef stock
  • 8 tablespoons oats (about 1/2 cup; I used a mix of steel-cut and stone-ground Scottish oats)
  • 1 tablespoon dried parsley or 3 tablespoons fresh
  • 2 teaspoons dried sage or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
  • 2 beef bouillon cubes (optional, for deeper flavor)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. Combine all ingredients in a pot and bring to a gentle boil.
  2. Simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until oats are fully cooked and meat is tender. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
  3. If using a mix of oat types, cook according to the longest recommended time (steel-cut oats take longer).
  4. Skim any foam or scum off the surface as needed.
  5. Season to taste. Serve warm.

Cook’s Notes:

  • Like the previous recipe, I did not strain the mixture. In period, this would have removed bones, hulls, gristle, and the occasional insect—not necessary with modern prep.
  • This version is still richer than likely served historically, but you could easily feed 16 people on a pound of meat if stretching the recipe for feast use.
  • Don’t use rolled oats here. They’re a post-medieval innovation and create a gluey mess in recipes like this.
  • The oats thicken beautifully and impart a toasty, nutty flavor. Combined with the beef and herbs, the final gruel is savory, comforting, and richly satisfying.

This modern version balances historical authenticity with accessibility. The result is a rich, earthy dish that bridges centuries of culinary wisdom. It’s surprisingly filling and deeply savory—perfect for cold weather, medieval feasts, or just a hearty lunch.

Culinary Techniques: Then and Now

One of the key insights from this recipe is the medieval emphasis on purification and refinement. The beef was boiled first—not just to cook it, but to clean it. In an age before refrigeration and industrial sanitation, boiling meat helped remove impurities like dirt, coagulated blood, or bone fragments. This step also created a basic broth that served as the flavorful liquid base of the gruel.

Straining, or “drawing,” was another critical step. It wasn’t simply about texture—it was also about safety and presentation. Straining ensured that bone shards, gristle, or hulls from the oats didn’t make it into the final bowl. The result was a smoother, more visually appealing dish that felt refined, even if made from humble ingredients.

In modern kitchens, we replicate these steps through initial searing or blanching, followed by simmering and fine straining. Tools like mesh strainers, blenders, and cheesecloth make it even easier to achieve the kind of clarity medieval cooks worked hard to produce by hand.

Nutritional and Medicinal Value of Oats in Period

Oats were not only a dietary staple in medieval Europe—they were also considered medicinal. Historical herbalists praised oats for their curative properties, particularly in relation to digestion, inflammation, and skin conditions. Italian herbalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli (1519–1603) described oat broth as a remedy for coughs, gallstones, and skin disorders. He even noted its cosmetic benefits: “Mixed with white lead and used to wash the countenance it makes a clear, attractive complexion.”

German botanist Adam Lonitzer (1528–1586) agreed, calling oats “a useful grain for both cattle and man.” He recommended oat gruel for intestinal regulation, inflammation, and even the treatment of ulcers and fistulas. He emphasized that oats, especially when cooked warm, were a “fortifying source of nutrition.”

These endorsements highlight how a dish like Drawyn Grwel functioned not just as food, but as preventive care—perfect for the sick, the recovering, or those seeking to maintain wellness in difficult conditions.

Taste Test: Modern Reactions to a Historic Dish

It’s one thing to talk about medieval food—and quite another to taste it. When I prepared this modern interpretation of Drawyn Grwel, it completely upended my expectations of what “gruel” should be. The aroma, described by one taste tester as “biscuits and gravy,” filled the kitchen with savory promise.

The dish was unctuous, earthy, and herbal—with the oats lending a mild nuttiness and the beef providing deep umami flavor. The sage and parsley lifted the palate just enough to keep it balanced, and the optional use of blood or drippings made the broth silky and rich.

We didn’t just finish our bowls—we scraped them clean. If gruel has a bad reputation, this version redeems it completely. It’s a dish I’d proudly serve to guests at a historical dinner, SCA event, or a cold winter brunch. And, as promised, I’ll definitely be making it again.

How to Serve Drawyn Grwel Today

While this dish originates from the 15th century, it adapts beautifully to modern serving styles—especially if you're aiming to recreate a medieval ambiance or simply enjoy a nourishing, rustic meal. For reenactment events, SCA feasts, or historical dinners, presentation matters just as much as flavor.

Serving Suggestions:

  • Use wooden bowls, stoneware, or clay pots for authenticity
  • Serve with rustic bread or black rye for dipping
  • Garnish with a small sprig of parsley or a dash of fresh sage
  • Pair with pickled vegetables, cheese, or a mug of ale

This is a one-pot dish that carries both simplicity and elegance. It's hearty enough to stand as a main meal, but also versatile enough to serve in small portions as part of a multi-course medieval menu.

Tips for Stretching the Recipe

As with many medieval recipes, Drawyn Grwel was likely intended to serve many with modest ingredients. If you're preparing for a group gathering or reenactment feast, you can easily scale the recipe by adjusting the oats and liquid content, even while keeping the meat portion minimal.

Portion Planning:

  • 1 pound of meat can comfortably serve 12–16 people when paired with enough oats and broth
  • Using groats or whole grain oats will increase the volume and texture
  • Add extra herbs or seasoning if scaling significantly to keep the flavor consistent

Whether you’re feeding a household or a historical camp, Drawyn Grwel proves that affordable ingredients can still offer memorable meals.

Final Thoughts: Gruel Worthy of a Noble Table

The phrase “medieval gruel” doesn’t usually inspire culinary excitement. But Drawyn Grwel changes that narrative. This dish blends history, nutrition, and flavor in a way that feels both comforting and surprisingly refined. With beef, herbs, and oats transformed through time-tested technique, this is more than peasant fare—it’s a bowl of the past made worthy of the present.

So don’t let the name fool you. Drawyn Grwel is delicious, nourishing, and endlessly adaptable. Whether you’re a historian, reenactor, or curious cook, this is one medieval recipe worth returning to again and again.

Oat History Quick Bites:

  • Raw oats go rancid quickly unless toasted. Steel-cut or stone-ground oats mimic medieval processing best.

  • Rolled oats? Not until the 18th century. Save them for cookies.

  • Ground oats + clean broth = a dish with serious historical roots (and surprisingly modern appeal).

This is not the gruel of Dickensian despair. It’s warm, herb-scented, and deserving of your next feast table, campfire pot, or rainy-day supper. Give it a shot — and bring a big spoon.

FAQs

Can I make Drawyn Grwel without using blood?

Yes. Blood was traditionally used for richness and color, but modern alternatives like beef drippings, dark stock, or Worcestershire sauce can substitute effectively while keeping the dish accessible.

What kind of oats are best for historical gruel?

Steel-cut or stone-ground oats (like Scottish oatmeal) are the best approximations of medieval oat preparations. Avoid rolled oats, which are a modern invention and yield an inconsistent texture.

Can Drawyn Grwel be made vegetarian?

Yes, by substituting the beef with mushrooms, lentils, or textured vegetable protein, and using a rich vegetable broth. It won’t be historically accurate, but it retains the texture and herbal elements.

How do I serve gruel at a medieval event?

Use rustic or handmade vessels, add simple garnishes like herbs, and serve alongside bread, pickled vegetables, or cheese. The key is warmth, texture, and an honest presentation.

What’s the difference between Drawyn Grwel and Grewel Eforced?

Drawyn Grwel uses beef, herbs, and blood, with a focus on straining for smoothness. Grewel Eforced typically uses pork, marrow, and saffron, and is often thicker and more textured. Both are fortified gruels, but with distinct flavor profiles and regional nuances.

Related Recipes:

For to make grewel eforced (Rylands MS 7, 1390)
Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)
.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.

For gruel of fors (Liber cure cocorum, 1430)
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)
For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced (A Noble Boke of Cookry, 1468)
A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)
To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.

To make grewell of forse (Gentyll manly Cokere, ca. 1500)
Gentyll manly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047) (England, ca. 1500)
To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.


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Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
  • 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
  • 1/4 pound ground pork
  • Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
  2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
  3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
  4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
  5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
  6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

  • Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
  • Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

  • Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
  • Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

  • Top with a poached egg for richness.
  • Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

  • Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
  • Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
  • Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

  • Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
  • Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.


To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes

Kitchen Adventures – Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent (Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430) - Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent 
I hope the holiday season has blessed everyone and that the New Year will bring a years' worth of health, wealth and happiness to you, but most importantly, time for you to share with others. Of course I had to try something with wine in it! Today I tried a rather interesting recipe from the "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin", which roughly interprets to a "Broth in Lent". I found it an interesting and delicious recipe and I would almost post this into the category of "found" recipes. Why? Most cooks who have prepared a feast will have some if not all of these ingredients left over, and with a bit of time could create this as an extra dish to serve at a meal. 

I think this would be an exceptionally forgiving recipe, for example, you could substitute broth for wine, and vary the spices. The taste testers and I put our heads together and even came up with some suggestions on how to serve it. My preference would be at the beginning of the meal with cheese pipes and a peppery arugula salad. Another suggestion was a side dish to be served with roasted beef and frumenty. Just a few thoughts to take into the new year with you :-)

Yes, this will definitely appear in a future feast---I better start putting in more bids I'm developing quite a list! Perhaps for next year I will start hosting small parties at my house, not only to share my passion with others, but to enjoy the company of good friends.

I have also hit a milestone with this post. I have interpreted or referenced approximately 57 of the 153 pottage recipes found in the Harleain MS 279. I am reaching the point where some of the ingredients are prohibitively expensive to make, or I can't get the ingredients for, or, are things I am not fond (like oysters!). I will continue to work on completing these recipes as best as I can.

.Cxlvij. Brwes in lentyn. — Take AVater & let boyle, and draw a Iyer ]7er-to of Brede, of j^e cromys, w/tA wyne y-now ; lete alle ben wyne almost ; j^en put Jjer-to hony a gode quantyte, l^at it may ben dowcet, j^an putte ponder Pcpir ]>er-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, & Salt, & skalde ]>m^ brewes tender, & serue f[orth].

Cxlvij - Brwes in lentyn. Take Water and let boyle, and draw a lyer ther-to of Brede, of the cromys, with wyne y-now; lete alle ben wyne almost; then put ther-to honey a gode quantyte, that it may ben dowcet, than putte pouder Pepir ther-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, and Salt, and skalde thin (Note: Thine) brewes tender, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

147. Brewes (broth) in lent - Take water and let boil and draw a mixture of bread, of the crumbs, with wine enough: let all be wine almost; then put there-to honey a good quantity, that it may be sweet, than put powder pepper there-to, cloves, mace, and sandalwood, and salt and scald your broth tender, and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                     Serves 1 as a main, 2 as a side

3/4 cup water
1/4 cup wine -I used a beautifully fruity red
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 tbsp. honey
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp.  mace
2 cloves
1-2 tsp. saunders (opt.)

Soak bread crumbs in wine.  Meanwhile, bring water to boil and stir in honey and spices. Let steep until desired color is reach. Add bread and wine mixture and stir until it has thickened. Strain before serving.

As is, this is a lovely thickened wine sauce or broth.  As I've stated previously, I think it is beautifully versatile for a modern day kitchen.  I added ginger to this in addition to the other spices. This would make a lovely royalty luncheon, or you could throw it together in a pinch as a camp meal as well.  I urge you to experiment with this.

Kitchen Adventures – Chykonys in bruette - Chicken in Broth (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Add captionChykonys in bruette - Chicken in Broth
With the holidays fast approaching and -all- of the cooking forthcoming I am looking for quick, simple recipes. What could be simpler then pieces of tender chicken in a flavorful broth seasoned with pepper, saffron and ginger? I enjoyed this recipe as did my taste testers. There are many interpretations of this dish available through a search of the internet. I hope you enjoy mine. 

.lxxxxvij. Chykonys in bruette.—Take an [supplied by ed.] Sethe Chykonys, & smyte hem to gobettys; þan take Pepir, Gyngere, an Brede y-grounde, & temper it vppe wyth þe self brothe, an with Ale; an coloure it with Safroun, an sethe an serue forth.

lxxxxvij - Chykonys in bruette. Take an Sethe Chykonys, and smyte hem to gobettys; than take Pepir, Gyngere, an Brede y-grounde, and temper it vppe wyth the self-brothe, an with Ale; an coloure it with Safroun, an sethe an serue forth.

97 - Chicken in Broth - Take and boil chickens, and chop them to pieces; then take pepper, ginger, and bread ground, and temper it up with the self broth, and with ale; and color it with saffron and boil and serve it forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                                  Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1/4 pound chicken (I used bone in, skin on chicken breast)
Water to cover the chicken you use
1/4 cup ale
1/8- 1/4 tsp. each pepper & ginger ( I went a bit closer to the 1/4 tsp.)
Pinch of saffron

I cooked the chicken in the water, then removed it and let it cool. I measured out 3/4 of a cup of the "stock" this created and added 1/4 cup ale to it. I removed the chicken from the bone, cleaned off any remaining fat, gristle and skin and cut it into bite sized pieces. While I cleaned the chicken, I brought the broth and ale to a simmer, added the pepper, ginger and saffron. When it reached the color I wanted I added the bread crumbs to thicken the broth and then returned the chicken to it.

This was beautiful, simple and will find its place at a future event. This could be used as a side dish, or part of a course featuring several variations of similar dishes. For example, I could see serving this dish with Gelyne in Dubbatte (Chicken in Wine Sauce), Henne in Bokenade (Stewed Chicken in an Egg and Broth sauce) and lastly, Hennys in Gauncelye (Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce) alongside a simple dish of rice cooked in almond milk and perhaps White Wortes (Greens Creamed with Almond Milk), or Lange Wortes de pesoun (Braised Greens with Peas). It would be a very simple yet filling meal for a lunch tavern, royalty luncheon too.

Similar Recipes

Forme of Cury (England, 1390)

VII - HENNYS IN BRUET. Schullyn be scaldyd and sodyn wyth porke and grynd pepyr and comyn bred and ale and temper it wyth the selve broth and boyle and colowre it wyth safroun and salt it and messe it forthe.

Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

Hennes in brewes. With porke þou sethe þo henne fatte, Grynde brede and peper and be not batte. And comyne also þou schalle grynde, Seson hom with ale, þat is hor kynde. With þo brothe of hennes þou temper hit shalle, Boyle hit, coloure hit, salt hit withalle. Serve hom forthe, as þou may see, Þese er hennes in browet, levys þou me.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak hennes in Bruet sethe hennes and freche pork to gedure then grind pepper bred and comyne and sesson it and temper it with the hennes brothe boile it and colour it with saffron salt it and serue it.




Kitchen Adventures – .lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye - Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

.lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye - Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce
This dish is unusual and distinguishes itself from other similar dishes found in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin. The first difference is the use of the garlic in the sauce. It is one of a handful of recipes in the book that calls for it. Secondly, this is one of the few dishes that I believe could be served either as a soup or as a dish of meat with a sauce--that could be me putting modern thought into this dish.

Garlic is a member of the same plant family as onions and like onions, its cultivation is so old as to make its origins unknown. Garlic has been found in Egyptian temples, and it has a long history of medical, not culinary usage. Hippocrates and Dioscurides recommend garlic as a way to treat parasites, respiratory conditions and poor digestion.

Some other items of note in my quick research of garlic and its usage. According to ancient Egyptian records, slaves were given garlic to ward off illness. Pyramid builders were given beer, flatbread, onions and garlic. During the reign of King Tut a healthy male slave could be purchased for fifteen pounds of garlic!

Garlic was placed on piles of stones at crossroads for Hecate, and to protect from demons. It was believes that garlic would cause evil spirits to lose their way. Before going into battle, Greek soldiers would consume garlic as did Greek athletes before a competition. Roman soldiers also ate garlic; it was believed that consuming garlic would inspire them and give them courage.

Many European stories attribute the ability to ward of the "evil eye", the devil, or to protect from evil spirits to garlic. We all know that wearing garlic or hanging garlic in windows, doorways and chimneys will keep vampires away.

.lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye.—Take Hennys, an roste hem; take Mylke an Garleke, an grynd it, an do it in a panne, an hewe þin hennys þer-on with ȝolkys of eyron, an coloure it with Safroun an Mylke, an serue forth.

lxxxx - Hennys in Gauncelye. Take Hennys, an roste hem; take Mylke an Garleke, an grynd it, an do it in a panne, an hewe thin hennys ther-on with 3olkys of eyron, an coloure it with Safroun an Mylke, an serue forth.

90 - Hen in Gauncelye - Take hens and roast them; take milk and garlic and grind it, and do it in a pan, and chop your hens there-on with yolks of egg, and color it with saffron and milk and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                          Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1/4 pound of chicken (I used chicken breast that I had simmered)
1 cup milk, cream or half and half
2-3 cloves of garlic finely minced
1 egg, or 2 egg yolks
pinch of saffron
Salt and Pepper to taste

I say this phrase a lot, it couldn't have been simpler to put this together. I used a double boiler to heat the milk to a simmer along with the saffron, garlic salt and pepper. Once it was heated I tempered the egg yolks with a bit of the garlic cream and then continued to heat the sauce until it began to thicken. I added my precooked chicken to the sauce and continued to cook a few moments more.

Do not be hesitant with the garlic. I know it sounds like quite a bit, but the cream tempers it quite a bit. I had originally made this with 1 clove, afraid that I would keep away family members and vampires alike. It was ok, but amping up the garlic made the dish.

This could be served as a creamy soup, or, as a sauce on the side of a dish of chicken and therefore as a dish of meat served with a broth as opposed to a dish of meat served with a sauce. This makes the dish very versatile about where it can fit in the menu.

The taste testers and I both enjoyed this dish. I would serve this at a luncheon, a lunch tavern, or even at a feast. It has gone into my "must serve again" list.

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Du fait de cuisine (France, 1420 - Elizabeth Cook, trans.)

46. Now it remains to be known with what sauce one should eat the pilgrim capons: the pilgrim capons should be eaten with the jance, and to advise the sauce-maker who should make it take good almonds and blanch and clean them very well and bray them very well; and take the inside of white bread according to the quantity which he needs, and let him have the best white wine which he can get in which he should put his bread to soak, and with verjuice; and when his almonds are well brayed put in a little garlic to bray with them; and take white ginger and grains of paradise according to the quantity of sauce which he needs, and strain all this together and draw it up with the said white wine and a little verjuice and salt also, and put it to boil in a fair and clean pot.

And if the staffs are lampreys make lamprey sauce in the manner which is devised above under lamprey pasty.

And if they are eels, green garlic made with sorrel and verjuice.

Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334]
(England, 1425)

Gaunsell Gaunsell for gese. Take floure, and tempur hit with gode cowe mylke, and make hit thynne, and colour hit with saffron; and take garlek, and stamp hit, and do therto, and boyle hit, and serve hit fbrthe.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak hennes in gauncelle tak and rost your hennes then tak garlik and mold it with mylk and put it in a pan then hew your henne and put ther to and mele it withyolks of eggs and colour it with saffron and boile it well and serue it.

Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen (Netherlands, ca. 1510 - C. van Tets, trans.)

To make a ganselsie outside fasting time. Take bread, garlic, raw egg yolks and saffron. One shall grind this all together and pass it through a strainer with wine or with sweet milk and one simmers it over the fire until it is thick. With this one serves fried/roast chicken; in the winter, goose or capons.

Kitchen Adventures – lxxiiij - Arbolettys - Cheese Soup (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

lxxiiij - Arbolettys - Cheese Soup
It was snowing out today, grey and dreary, but a perfect day to cook up comfort food and what could be more comforting than something cheesy and warm? Again I veered off course from the planned dishes I had posted I was going to make to try another one that caught my interest from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin.  This dish is usually interpreted as a kind of a scrambled egg dish, and there are numerous interpretations posted online.  However, I chose to use the same interpretation as I did for Papyns, and instead created a luxuriously velvety cheese soup worthy to be served to any king. 

.lxxiiij. Arbolettys.—Take Milke, Boter an Chese, & boyle in fere; þen take eyroun, & cast þer-to; þan take Percely & Sawge & hacke it smal, & take pouder Gyngere & Galyngale, and caste it þer-to, and þan serue it forth.

lxxiiij - Arbolettys. Take Milke, Boter an Chese, and boyle in fere; then take eyroun, and cast ther-to; than take Percely and Sawge and hacke it smal, and take pouder Gyngere and Galyngale, and caste it ther-to, and than serue it forth.

74 - Arbolettys. - Take milk, butter and cheese, and boil in together: then take eggs, and caste there-to; than take parsley and sage and hack it small, and take powder ginger and galingale, and caste it there-to, and then serve it forth. 

Interpreted Recipe                                                         Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1 cup milk
2 tbsp butter
1/4 cup or to taste cheese (I used a mixture of sharp and mild cheddar. Other period appropriate cheeses include; brie, camembert, cottage, emmenthal, gruyére, mozzarella; parmesan and ricotta)
2 eggs
1 tsp. each parsley and sage
1/8 tsp. ginger and galingale
**Salt and Pepper to taste - while not called for in the original instructions, modern tastes will appreciate the addition

As I have learned when cooking with milk based dishes it is always best to use a double broiler to prevent the milk from burning.  Add milk and butter to a double broiler and heat until the milk begins to simmer, add the cheese and stir constantly while the cheese melts into the milk and butter mixture.  Beat the eggs with the herbs and spices, temper with a little bit of the cheese mixture and return to the pan.  Cook until the soup has thickened to your desired consistency. 

One of my taste testers is a friend who very seldom says "This is delicious!" when it comes to testing food from this era.  Not only did I get that high praise, I also received instructions that this *MUST* be served at an event in the future. No fears there, I will be serving this again.  It was easy to put together and delicious.  Another taste tester has promised not to include this in the book he plans on writing on "How I Survived Being a Taste Tester". None of my teens were available--nobody complained it meant more soup for the adults.

I know that my interpretation is very different then what you will find if you research other interpretations.  Why? Because of the instructions themselves-we are told to boil together milk, butter and cheese and then to add eggs.  It does NOT specify how the eggs are to be added.  However, looking at similar recipes for papyns and cream boiled from the same manuscript led me to conclude that the end dish should resemble custard and not scrambled eggs. 

Papyns, which creates a sweet custard instructs us to "take the yolks of eggs drawn through a strainer and caste thereto" into a mixture of milk and flour that had been brought to a boil, and then allowed to cool. Similar instructions are found in the boiled cream recipe.  My conclusion then is that these three recipes should all yield similar consistencies with different flavors.  
20. Papyns - Take fair milk and flour, an draw through a strainer, an set it over the fire, an let it boil awhile: than take it out an let it cool: then take yolks of eggs drawn through a strainer and caste thereto; than take sugar a good quantity, an cast there-to, an a little salt an set it on the fire till it be somewhat thick, but let it not boil fully, an stir it well, an put it on a dish all broad, and serve forth running. 
13. Cream Boiled - Take cream or milk and bread of pandemain, or else of tender bread, an break it on the cream, or else in the milk, an set it on the fire till it be warm hot; and through a strainer throw it, and put into a fair pot, an set it on the fire, an stir evermore: an when it is almost boiled, take fair yolks of eggs, and draw them through a strainer, and cast them there-to, and let them stand over the fire till it boil almost, an till it be skillfully (reasonably) thick; than cast a ladle full, or more or less, of butter there-to, and a good quantity of white sugar, and a little salt, and then dress it on a dish in manner of mortrews. 

Kitchen Adventures – .xvij. Garbage - Stewed Chicken Offal (Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430))




Harleian ms. 279 (ab. 1430) - .xvij. Garbage - Stewed Chicken Offal

Baronial 12th Night - Garbage - stewed chicken offal (hearts, gizzards, livers, feet, neck) Harl. MS 279, 1430

I veered a bit off course recently from the recipes that I was planning on testing, and found myself with two roasting hens and giblets. This prompted me to try a dish from from "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books. Harleian ms. 279 (ab. 1430), & Harl. ms. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole ms. 1429, Laud ms. 553, & Douce ms. 55" by Thomas Austin. The dish is (appropriately) named garbage and it consists of those bits of the animal that most of us would not normally eat, but would end up in the garbage. I happen to like offal, the extremities and non-skeletal meat of animals, and was willing to give this recipe a try. I can say that it was not a favorite of the taste testers and they were very good sports about trying this.

As already mentioned, offal is any non-skeletal meat of an animal, this includes blood, brains, caul, ears, eyes, feet, giblets, heads, hearts, intestines, kidneys, liver, lungs, marrow, spleen, sweetbreads, tails, testicles, tongues and tripe. Offal is difficult to keep well, so it must be prepared to be eaten almost as soon as the animal has been slaughtered.

Eating offal has a very long history, but the kinds of offal that are eaten and the types of offal eaten are cultural based. Dietary law also restricts the usage of offal. We tend to be a bit squeamish about eating some parts of the animals (head, eyes, testicles and wombs or udders) because they remind us of our food sources or are too strong in taste (Kidneys, gizzards, livers).

.xvij. Garbage. — Take fayre garbagys of chykonys, as J^e lied, J^e fete, ]ie lyiierys, an ]>e gysowrys ; washe hem clene, an caste hem in a fayre potte, an caste }7er-to freysshe brothe of Beef or ellys of moton, an let it boyle ; an a-lye it wyth brecle, an ley on Pepir an Safroun, Maces, Clowys, an a lytil verious an salt, an serue forth in the maner as a Sewe.

xvij - Garbage. Take fayre garbagys of chykonys, as the hed, the fete, the lyuerys, an the gysowrys; washe hem clene, an caste hem in a fayre potte, an caste ther-to freysshe brothe of Beef or ellys of moton, an let it boyle; an a-lye it wyth brede, an ley on Pepir an Safroun, Maces, Clowys, an a lytil verious an salt, an serue forth in the maner as a Sewe.

17 - Garbage - Take fair garbage of chickens, as the head, the feet, the liver, and the gizzard; wash them clean, and caste them in a fair pot, and caste there-to fresh broth of beef or else of mutton, and let it boil; and mix it with bread, and lay on pepper and saffron, mace, cloves, and a little verjuice and salt, and serve forth in the manner as a stew.

Interpreted Recipe Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1/4 pound of mixed chicken parts, I used a giblets package and added additional livers (feet and heads are difficult to come by in my area)
1 c. beef broth
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1/4 tsp. pepper
pinch of saffron
1/8 tsp. each mace and clove
1 tbsp. vinegar
1/2 tsp. salt


This was very easy to put together. I retained the giblets from two roasting chickens and then added additional livers. Be sure to clean your gizzards, removing the silverskin as it is inedible. Cook the giblets in the broth, with pepper, saffron mace and clove. While the meat is boiling you will want to soak the bread crumbs in the vinegar, it will become a kind of paste. Once the meat is cooked remove it from the broth and cut it into smaller pieces. Add the breadcrumbs soaked in vinegar a little bit at a time to the broth, and boil until it is thickened to your taste. Return the meat to the gravy, and season with the salt. Serve.

Unfortunately, I think this dish is going to be added to the "too period to serve" list. It was good, if you like to eat offal. I do, so I enjoyed it. However, several of my taste testers are not, and voiced a very loud "NO" when asked if they would try it at a feast. That being said, this could be a "found" dish that can be served at an event if you are using whole roasting chickens. There is no reason to throw out the giblet bags, serve it up like this. Adventurous feasters will try it, and you might find someone like me who enjoys offal, who will gobble up as much as they can get.

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Garbage - Dan Myers Interpretation

Enseignements qui enseingnent a apareillier toutes manieres de viandes (France, ca. 1300 - D. Myers, trans.)

To make false guernon - If you want to make false guernon take the livers and the gizzards, then chop small, grind bread and temper with broth, and put to boil, and after add beaten egg yolks and saffron, temper with wine, and then fry, and add milk, and chop meat in the crest, and put to boil, and stir all day, and then add the eggs and saffron, and mix in a bowl, and add ground cinnamon, ginger and cloves thereon.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak a garbage tak the heed the garbage the leuer the gessern the wings and the feet and wesche them and clene them and put them in a pot and cast ther tobrothe of beef poudere of pepper clowes maces parsly saige mynced then step bred in the sam brothe and cast it to pouder of guingere venygar saffron and saltand serue it.

Recipes from John Crophill's Commonplace Book (England, 1485)

Garbage. Tak fleysch & wasch it & do it to the fyer take percely & brek yt with thin honds & do in spices and saffron & wyn let it boyle wel non other lite but salt

Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen (Netherlands, ca. 1510 - C. van Tets, trans.)

To make a subbelet for organ meats [usually liver and stomach] of the goose or for venison or for meat of a wether. Take bread softened in the broth and ground up then passed together through a strainer and put it in the pot, then add to it wine, a little vinegar spices that belong to it and saffron with salt. Then let this all boil well together; so you shall lay it in the salted organ meats. So it is done.


Kitchen Adventures – Braised Fowl (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.xv. Bowres)

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.xv. Bowres


This recipe came as a suprise! It was delicious and I am surprised that more people have not prepared it in the past.  I found it in "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books. Harleian ms. 279 (ab. 1430), & Harl. ms. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole ms. 1429, Laud ms. 553, & Douce ms. 55" Thomas Austin. It can be intrepreted in two different ways.  I chose to use the second interpretation of this dish, duck or goose served as a soup with a broth made of ale, seasoned with sage and salt.  However it was the first interpretation that leads me to do some brief research on the use of offal in the middle ages.

Offal references those parts of an animal that are not skeletal muscle, for example, brain, heart, kidneys, livers and gizzards. It also refers to giblets, "humbles", "umbles", "numbles", and the extremities of an animal such as tails, feet, testicles, ears and tongue.  Offal is an excellent source of protein but it does not keep well. Although it is not visible, we eat a lot of offal in processed food.

One point of interest I did find was that the church in Spain did not consider offal to be meat, so it was allowed to be eaten during lent and also on other meatless days along with bacon.

.xv. Bowres.—Take Pypis, Hertys, Nerys, Myltys, an Rybbys of the Swyne; or ellys take Mawlard, or Gees, an chop hem smal, and thanne parboyle hem in fayre water; an þan take it vp, and pyke it clene in-to a fayre potte, an caste þer-to ale y-now, & sawge an salt, and þan boyle it ryȝth wel; and þanne serue it forthe for a goode potage.

xv - Bowres. Take Pypis, Hertys, Nerys, Myltys, an Rybbys of the Swyne; or ellys take Mawlard, or Gees, an chop hem smal, and thanne parboyle hem in fayre water; an than take it vp, and pyke it clene in-to a fayre potte, an caste ther-to ale y-now, and sawge an salt, and than boyle it ry3th wel; and thanne serue it forthe for a goode potage

15 Bowres - Take lungs, hearts, ears, spleen and ribs of the swine; or else take mallard or geese, and chop them small, and then parboil them in fair water; and then take it up, and pick it clean into a fair pot, and caste thereto ale enough, and sage, and salt, and then boil it right well and then serve it forth for a good pottage.

Interpreted Recipe                                                         Serves 1 as Main, 2 as side

1/4 pound fowl of your choice (duck, goose, chicken etc.)
water to cover
1 cup ale
1/2 to 1 tsp. salt or to taste
1 tsp. sage

Take your meat, in this case I used a Cornish hen, and cut it into chunks.  Cover it with water and allow it to cook until cooked completely through.  Remove it from the heat and allowing it to cool.  When cool, clean it and place it in a pot with your ale, salt and sage.  Cook till broth has reduced a little and alcohol has cooked off. 

This was a surprisingly simple to make recipe. It was quick to put together and as I've stated before delicious! I have been asked to make it again by the taste testers and that seldom happens.  Did I mention that they squabbled over who would get to eat the rest of it? It would be a very economical dish and it has an added benefit of creating a stock that can be used in another dish--do not throw the stock away!

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Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For bours. Take porke and gese, hew hom þou schalle On gobetes, with powder of peper withalle. Hom sethe in pot þat is so clene, With oute any water, with salt, I wene. Fro Martyn messe to gode tyde evyne, Þys mete wylle serve, þou may me lene, At dyner or soper, if þat hit nede. Þou take gode ale, þat is not quede, Þer in þou boyle þo forsayde mete Þo more worship þou may gete

Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)

Bourreys. Take pipes, hertes, neres, myltes, and of the rybbes of the Swyne, or elles take (if thou wilt) Mallard or Goos, and choppe hem small, And then parboile it in faire water, And take it vp, and pike it clene, And putte into a potte, And cast there-to Ale ynogh, Sauge, Salt, And lete boile right ynowe, &then serue it forth.

Kitchen Adventures – Quystis Scun - Pigeons Stewed (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - Quystis Scun - Pigeons Stewed

Today I cooked a recipe from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin for a dish of pigeons stewed in a flavorful broth of beef, wine and vinegar seasoned with ginger and pepper. Unfortunately pigeon is difficult for me to come by in this area so I had to spend some time researching substitutes for game birds.  The suggested game bird from the "The Cook's Thesaurus" was Cornish hens, which are readily available in my area, but not even remotely period.  

Wood Pigeons
This recipe most likely refers to the wood pigeon, also known as the ring dove, wood-quist or cushat. This is based on information obtained from Robert Nares "A Glossary or Collection of Words, Phrases, Names, and Allusions to   Customs, Proverbs, etc. Which Have Been Thought to Require Illustration in The Works of English Authors, Particularly Shakespeare, and his Contemporaries" which is available for free from Google Books.

Squab, the term used for young pigeons is described as tasting quite a bit like "dark meat chicken", which would be appropriate as the meat itself is a very dark.  Substituting the Cornish hen created a bit of an interesting dilemma.  The broth and wine colored the skin of the bird grey.  If I wasn't 100% convinced that the hen's I had purchased were fresh I would have been hesitant to serve them to my taste testers.  I believe that any cook would run into this same issue.  Some suggestions that were made to overcome this would be to cook the birds with the skin on and remove the skin prior to serving, or to bake the meat of your choice and serve it with a sauce made from the remaining ingredients.  You won't get the same texture but who wants to eat rubbery skin??

The Middle English Dictionary, Volume 8 by Robert E. Lewis suggests that the word "Scune" means Stew.  Unlike the word soup, whose etymology is clear, the word "stew" has a rather shady and twisted path.  The "Online Etymology Dictionary" gives the information below:

stew (n.) - c. 1300, "vessel for cooking," from stew (v.). Later "heated room," especially for bathing (late 14c.). The meaning "stewed meat with vegetables" is first recorded 1756. The obsolete slang meaning "brothel" (mid-14c., usually plural, stews) is from a parallel sense of "public bath house" (mid-14c.), carried over from Old French estuve "bath, bath house; bawdy house," reflecting the reputation of medieval bath houses.
late 14c., transitive "to bathe (a person or a body part) in a steam bath," from Old French estuver "have a hot bath, plunge into a bath; stew" (Modern French étuver), of uncertain origin. Common Romanic (cognates: Spanish estufar, Italian stufare), possibly from Vulgar Latin *extufare "evaporate," from ex- "out" + *tufus "vapor, steam," from Greek typhos "smoke." Compare Old English stuf-bæþ "hot-air bath;" see stove. 
Intransitive use from 1590s. Meaning "to boil slowly, to cook meat by simmering it in liquid" is attested from early 15c. The meaning "to be left to the consequences of one's actions" is from 1650s, especially in figurative expression to stew in one's own juices. Related: Stewed; stewing. Slang stewed "drunk" first attested 1737.
.xiiij. Quystis Scune.—Take a pece of beef or of mutoun, and wyne and fayre water, and caste in-to a potte, an late hem boyle, an skeme it wyl an clene; þan take quystes, an stoppe hem wyth-in wyth hole pepyr, and marwe, an þan caste hem in-to þe potte, an ceuere wyl þe potte, an let hem stere ryȝth wyl to-gederys; an þan take powder gyngere, and a lytel verious an salt, and caste þer-to, an þanne serue hem forth in a fayre dysshe, a quyste or to in a dysshe, in þe maner of a potage: an whan þowe shalt serue hem forth, take a lytil of þe broth, an put on dysshe wyth quystys, an serue forth.

xiiij - Quystis Scune. Take a pece of beef or of mutoun, and wyne and fayre water, and caste in-to a potte, an late hem boyle, an skeme it wyl an clene; than take quystes, an stoppe hem wyth-in wyth hole pepyr, and marwe, an than caste hem in-to the potte, an ceuere wyl the potte, an let hem stere ry3th wyl to-gederys; an than take powder gyngere, and a lytel verious an salt, and caste ther-to, an thanne serue hem forth in a fayre dysshe, a quyste or to in a dysshe, in the maner of a potage: an whan thowe shalt serue hem forth, take a lytil of the broth, an put on dysshe wyth quystys, an serue forth.

14. Pigeon Stewed - Take a piece of beef or of mutton, and wine and fair water, and caste into a pot, an let them boil, and skim it well and clean; then take pigeons, and stop them within with whole pepper, and marrow, and then cast them into the pot, an cover well the pot, and let them stir right well together; an then take powder ginger, and a little verjuice and salt, and cast thereto, and then serve them forth in a fair dish, a pigeon or two in a dish, in the manner of a potage: an when you shall serve them forth, take a little of the broth, and put on dish with pigeons, and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                              Serves 2 as a main

2 c. beef broth
3/4 c. red wine
1 Cornish hen, cut in half
1 tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1/2 tsp. ginger
1 tbsp. vinegar
1/2 tsp. or to taste salt

Put all ingredients into a pot and bring it to a boil.  Cook till the hen is tender and then serve.

As recipes go, this couldn't be simpler.  I do plan on serving this at an event in the future.  The taste testers enjoyed it, even though it very much resembled what it was, boiled Cornish game hen ("tastes just like chicken") in a very flavorful broth.  You could thicken the broth using one of the period thickeners (bread, eggs or rice flour), and serve this with furmenty.

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Quystes. Take a pese of befe or of motyn wyn & watyr boyle hit skeme hit clene than take quystes chop hem with yn with hole pepyr & cast hem in to the pott & let hem stew ryght well to gedyr & take poudyr of gynger & a lytyll vergeys & salt & cast ther to do hem in fayre dischys a quyst or ij in a disch for a maner of potage and when thu shalt serve hit forth take a lytyll broth & put hit in dischys to the quystys.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak quystis tak a pece of beef or of moton and wyne and water and boile it and scem it clene then stop the quistes within with whole peppur and cast them in a pot and cover it and let it stewe welle put ther to poudur of guinger watire and salt and cast ther to and put them in faire disches one or ij in a dische for a maner of potage and when they be serued furthe tak alitill brothe and put in the disches among the quystis and serue it.

Kitchen Adventures – .l. A potage on fysshday - Sweet Curds and Whey (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .l. A potage on fysshday 
I came across an unusual recipe from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin called "A potage on fysshday".  I confess I was hesitant to try this dish because I was uncertain of what the final results would be.  I asked two chef friends of mine what they thought it should be like.  There was a general agreement that the acidic qualities of the ale and the wine would make this a kind of cheese, so all that remained was to try it.  I should know by now not to doubt those long ago chef's, as the final results were good. 

I would not recommend this dish for any large gathering of people but it would be a very cool and period thing to perhaps enter into an SCA competition, or to serve with a gathering of close friends, or even a small luncheon.  The result was a sweet broth made from the wine and the whey, with the curds of cheese (in my case similar to small curd cottage cheese) floating in the broth. Originally, I tried to serve this dryer rather than wetter, and in the humble opinions of all of the taste testers this really needs the broth, the wetter the better!

Possets were very popular dishes to eat, and I can understand why.  Without a way to refrigerate milk, you needed to change it in some way that would extend its life.  I was unable to locate directions on how to make a medieval posset.  I did find instructions from Sir Kenelm Digby.

"A Plain Ordinary Posset: Put a pint of good Milk to boil; as soon as it doth so, take it from the fire, to let the great heat of it cool a little; for doing so, the curd will be the tenderer, and the whole of a more uniform consistence. When it is prettily cooled, pour it into your pot, wherein is about two spoonfuls of Sack and four of Ale, with sufficient Sugar dissolved in them. So let it stand a while near the fire, till you eat it." -- from "The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelm Digby, Knight, Opened" (ca 1669)"

One of my chef friends was able to point me to two recipes from the mid 1800's for possets.  This has very little variation from Digby's recipe. I have to confess, there were a lot of remarks about "Little Miss Muffet" and how I had just created medieval curds and whey. That is exactly what this dish is.  The taste testers and I enjoyed it. I believe this is a dish that would do well room temperature as well as hot.  There wasn't any left over to test if it would be good cold.  I would definitely serve this as an alternate soup to vegetarians at an event provided they eat milk, when serving a meat based soup. It is thrifty and cost effective but a bit labor intensive.

.l. A potage on fysshday.—Take an Make a styf Poshote of Milke an Ale; þan take & draw þe croddys þorw a straynoure wyth whyte Swete Wyne, or ellys Rochelle Wyne, & make it sum-what rennyng an sum-what stondyng, & put Sugre a gode quantyte þer-to, or hony, but nowt to moche; þan hete it a lytil, & serue it forth al a-brode in þe dysshys; an straw on Canel, & Gyngere, and ȝif þou [supplied by ed.] haue Blank powder, straw on and kepe it as whyte as yt may be, & þan serue forth.

l - A potage on fysshday. Take an Make a styf Poshote of Milke an Ale; than take and draw the croddys thorw a straynoure wyth [correction; sic = MS. with wyth .] whyte Swete Wyne, or ellys Rochelle Wyne, and make it sum-what rennyng an sum-what stondyng, and put Sugre a gode quantyte ther-to, or hony, but nowt to moche; than hete it a lytil, and serue it forth al a-brode in the dysshys; an straw on Canel, and Gyngere, and 3if thou haue Blank powder, straw on and kepe it as [correction; sic = a] whyte as yt may be, and than serue forth [correction; sic = f].

50 A Potage on Fish Day - Take and make a stiff posset of milk and ale; then take and draw the curds through a strainer with white sweet wine, or else Rochelle wine (a favored kind of white wine in the middle ages), and make it somewhat running and somewhat standing, and put sugar, a good quantity there-to or honey, but not too much; then heat it a little and serve it forth all abroad in the dish; and strew on cinnamon and ginger, if you have white powder, strew on and keep it as white as it may be, and then serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                              Serves 1 as a main, 2 or more as a side

2 cups whole milk (I used Fairlife whole milk)
4 tbsp.  ale
2 tbsp. white wine
1-2 tbsp. honey or sugar or to taste

Bring the milk and the honey to a boil and remove it from the heat.  Allow to sit five minutes to cool, and add the Ale and white wine.  Return to heat and simmer for approximately ten minutes stirring constantly.  You can strain the whey from the curds if you like, otherwise add ginger, cinnamon or pouder douce to taste, and serve.