Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Note: This recipe was originally published in 2015. This updated version includes clearer instructions, a modern interpretation scaled for groups, and a vegetarian option to better suit today’s kitchens.
For the original historical context and early draft, see Lange Wortes de Pesoun (2015).

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Lange Wortes de Pesoun — a simple medieval peas and greens pottage inspired by Harleian MS 279, simmered to comforting perfection.

Looking for a seasonal medieval recipe with fresh garden greens and sweet peas? This 15th-century dish combines simple ingredients—peas, onions, and wortes (leafy greens)—into a richly comforting pottage. Featured in Harleian MS 279, it’s proof that medieval cooks knew how to make the most of the spring harvest.

History of the Dish

The Harleian manuscripts, compiled around 1430, include several recipes for vegetable-based pottages. The first of the green recipes is Lange Wortys de Chare, a dish of long-cooked greens. This recipe, Lange Wortes de Pesoun, adds green peas and onions, simmered until tender and fragrant. Despite the less-than-inviting olive-colored broth, this dish was a hit with even my non-SCA teenage tasters.

Did You Know?
Peas are one of the oldest cultivated crops. The Roman cookbook Apicius includes nine recipes for dried peas. By 800 CE, they were grown across Charlemagne’s lands, and by the 1200s, fresh peas were sold in European cities by street vendors.

Legumes, Pulses, and Medieval Abundance

Legumes (fresh in the pod) and pulses (dried) are members of the same family—plants whose fruit grows in pods. This group includes peas, lentils, beans, and lupins. The Latin word "legere" (to gather) gives us "legume." By the 16th century, peas were cultivated in many varieties: short, tall, smooth, wrinkled, yellow, and green.

In this recipe, the term “green peas” likely refers to fresh, shelled peas, suggesting a springtime preparation. But don’t let that stop you from using frozen or dried peas in other seasons—just adjust the cooking time to soften them fully.

A Philosophy of "Enough"

We don't need to measure in cups, tablespoons, or ounces when interpreting medieval recipes. They encourage us to be "enough."

Enough means ample to satisfy, adequate to nourish. Out with "simplify"—in with "enough." A motto worth cooking by.

.ij. Lange Wortes de pesoun.—Take grene pesyn, an washe hem clene an caste hem on a potte, an boyle hem tyl þey breste, an þanne take hem vppe of þe potte, an put hem with brothe yn a-noþer potte, and lete hem kele; þan draw hem þorw a straynowre in-to a fayre potte, an þan take oynonys, and screde hem in to or þre, an take hole wortys and boyle hem in fayre water: and take hem vppe, an ley hem on a fayre bord, an cytte on .iij. or iiij., an ley hem to þe oynonys in þe potte, to þe drawyd pesyn; an let hem boyle tyl þey ben tendyr; an þanne tak fayre oyle and frye hem, or ellys sum fresche broþe of sum maner fresche fysshe, an caste þer-to, an Safron, an salt a quantyte, and serue it forth.

Translation

Take green peas and wash them clean, then boil them until they burst. Remove them, and place with broth in another pot to cool. Then strain them through a strainer into a clean pot. Add shredded onions and pre-boiled greens (such as kale or cabbage) cut into thirds. Combine all in the pot with the strained peas and cook until tender. Finish with oil or fish broth, saffron, and salt. Serve warm.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

• 8 cups frozen peas
• 8 handfuls mixed greens (kale, chard, collards, spinach), chopped
• 1 onion, shredded
• 8 cups homemade beef stock (or fish broth)
• 1 teaspoon saffron (or to taste)
• Salt to taste

Heat peas until soft (about 5-7 minutes), then blend or mash them to a pulp and strain out any large bits.
Boil the greens separately until tender, then press dry.
In a large pot, simmer the broth with saffron and onions until onions soften.
Add the greens to the pot.
Stir in the pea purée and cook for about 5 minutes more.
Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Tip: For a lighter, brothier dish, try using 5–6 cups of peas and increase the broth to 8–10 cups. Adjust cooking times as needed for a soup-like consistency.
Vegetarian option: Simply substitute the beef or fish broth with a rich vegetable broth to keep the dish meat-free and flavorful.

Budget-Friendly & Feast-Ready

This recipe is one I would happily serve at a luncheon or as a side at a feast. It’s affordable, nourishing, and adapts well to both spring freshness and winter pantry staples.

More Seasonal Recipes?
If you’re looking for other dishes perfect for spring feasts or garden fare, try:

• Lange Wortys de Chare (Long Greens)
• Joutes (Braised Greens)
• Caboges (Braised Cabbage)

Tags:
Pottage, Vegetables, Grain, Medieval, SCA Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Printable

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda - Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style - Scappi

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Herb-Filled Pasta in the Lombard Style — Scappi’s Comforting Winter Classic

This delicate and fragrant dish of tortellini stuffed with sautéed greens, herbs, cheese, and sweet spices originates from Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570), the monumental cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi. Best known as the personal chef to Pope Pius V, Scappi was a master of both elaborate banquets and refined simplicity — and this recipe, nestled in Chapter 179 of his Secondo Libro, showcases the Lombard love of herbs, butter, and subtly sweet notes.

Scappi and the Rise of Pasta in the Renaissance Kitchen

Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570) offers one of the most complete windows into the elite cuisine of late Renaissance Italy — and pasta plays a surprisingly prominent role. While modern perceptions associate early Italian cuisine with bread and stews, Scappi details dozens of pasta forms: tortelletti, tagliatelle, lasagne, gnocchi, and more. He provides both fast-day (Lenten) and meat-day variations, often using rich fillings, egg-based doughs, and flavored broths.

Beyond Pasta: Scappi’s Influence on Italian Cuisine

While Scappi is celebrated for cataloging pasta, his legacy goes well beyond noodles. He formalized kitchen hierarchy, seasonal menu planning, and equipment standards that echoed into the 18th century and beyond. His work documents early uses of parchment paper for baking, cooking with a bain-marie, and even proto-refrigeration techniques using snow. He preserved the culinary knowledge of late medieval traditions while also introducing innovations that bridged the gap to modernity. Scappi’s recipes emphasized not only taste but also visual elegance, hygiene, and timing — principles that continue to shape Italian fine dining today.

His chapter on pasta (including Cap. 177–179) reflects the growing popularity of filled pasta in elite households — a sign of culinary sophistication. Doughs were often perfumed with rose water or sugar, and pasta was sometimes served in sweetened broths or dusted with sugar and cinnamon. These dishes bridged the gap between savory and sweet, medicine and indulgence, humble vegetables, and luxurious presentation.

In the Spirit of Romoli: Doctrine and Daily Table

Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (“The Singular Doctrine”) outlines not only how to cook but also how to organize and serve elaborate banquets across the seasons. His January banquet — which inspired this feast — features carefully curated combinations of hot and cold, dry and moist, light and heavy, always with an eye toward harmony and digestion. Pasta dishes like tortelletti fit perfectly into this philosophy: gentle on the stomach, warming in the winter months, and suitable for both Lenten and meatless preparations, depending on the broth and sauce.

Romoli, like Scappi, reflects the culinary doctrine of the sixteenth-century Italian elite, where food was viewed as an art, a science, and a means to health, all served in silver.

The Lombard Legacy: Herbs, Pasta, and Humoral Balance

Lombardy, located in northern Italy, was renowned throughout the Renaissance for its refined cuisine and affinity for dairy, herbs, and egg-rich dishes. Dishes like tortelletti d’herba reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and the influence of monastic gardens and courtly kitchens. These small-filled portions of pasta, cousins to ravioli and agnolotti, were considered both elegant and nourishing — ideal for feast days or Lenten fare when meat might be restricted, but the richness was not.

The inclusion of sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with sugar and currants, reveals a broader Renaissance fascination with balancing flavors and creating contrasts on the palate — often underpinned by humoral theory. Warm spices helped balance the “cold” qualities of greens, while cheese and egg yolks added “moist” richness. In this way, tortelletti d’herba were more than delicious — they were medicinally appropriate.

Did You Know?
Common greens used in Renaissance kitchens included bietole (Swiss chard or beet tops), spinaci (spinach), and cavolo nero. Herbs like parsley, mint, marjoram, and savory were prized not just for flavor but for their role in digestive and humoral health.

What Herbs and Greens Were Used in Renaissance Tortelletti?

The phrase herba alla Lombarda in Scappi's recipe refers to a familiar blend of leafy greens and aromatic herbs popular in northern Italy during the Renaissance. Common greens included bietole (chard or beet greens), spinaci (spinach), and sometimes cavolo nero (black cabbage). These were often combined with soft herbs like parsley, marjoram, mint, and savory — herbs prized for their digestive and warming properties, aligning with humoral dietary practices of the time. Regional cooks might adjust the balance of herbs depending on season and occasion: more mint and marjoram in summer, more parsley and chard in winter.

We featured this dish as part of the Arrosto course at our 12th Night 2024 feast, where it was served alongside roast beef, sweet mustard sauce, Turkish squash, and jewel-like Renaissance jelly bites. Helewyse de Birkestad adapted the recipe used in her event, Feste di San Martino, and offers a beautifully balanced winter pasta that pairs greens with Parmesan, currants, and spices.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Historical Recipe: Per far minestra di tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Scappi, Opera (1570), Cap. CLXXIX, Secondo Libro

Take beet (chard) and spinach, chop very finely, wash in several waters, and wring dry. Fry them gently in fresh butter, and add a handful of odiferous herbs. Boil briefly, then drain and combine the mixture in a glazed earthen or tinned copper pot. Add grated Parmesan and soft cheese, with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, currants, and enough raw egg to bind. If too soft, add breadcrumbs; if too firm, more butter. Make pasta as described in Chapter 177, shape small or large tortelletti, boil in meat broth, and serve with cheese, sugar, and cinnamon on top.

Modern Redaction (Adapted by Helewyse de Birkestad)

Pasta Dough

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• Pinch of salt
• 1 tbsp butter, melted
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp rosewater
• ~1¼ cups warm water (as needed)

Filling

• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 1 bunch spinach
• Small handful each: parsley, mint, marjoram
• 15 oz ricotta
• 6 oz Parmesan (grated)
• 1–2 eggs
• 1 oz currants
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron to taste

Instructions

1. Make the Dough: Combine flour, salt, sugar, melted butter, and rosewater. Mix with warm water to form a smooth dough. Knead well, then rest covered for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the Filling: Wash and chop the greens and herbs. Sauté in butter until wilted. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor with cheeses, eggs, spices, and currants until a firm but scoopable filling forms.
3. Shape the Tortelletti: Roll pasta thin (second-to-last setting on a hand-cranked machine). Cut into squares or circles. Place small scoops of filling, fold and seal. Shape into tortelletti.
4. Cook: Boil in salted water (or broth) until they float — about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.
5. To Serve: Top with a light dusting of grated cheese, cinnamon, and sugar for an authentic Renaissance finish.

Regional Variations Across Italy

Though Scappi’s version is firmly rooted in Lombardy, filled herb pastas appear across Italy with regional twists. In Emilia‑Romagna, tortelli di erbette are filled with greens and ricotta, often served with sage‑butter. Tuscany offers tortelli maremmani, sometimes incorporating wild greens and nutmeg. Liguria features pansoti made with preboggion (a traditional wild herb mix) and walnut sauce. Each variant celebrates local herbs and fillings while preserving the form’s essential comfort and seasonality.

Notes from the Feast Table

At 12th Night 2024, these tortelletti were part of the Arrosto course with:

• Spit-roasted beef (brisket)
• Turkish squash dishes
• Sweet mustard sauce
• Gelo in bocconcini di più colori (jelly in small bites)

Want More from This Feast?

This recipe is just one part of our 12th Night 2024 Renaissance Feast, inspired by Scappi, Romoli, and the lavish January banquets of Renaissance Italy.

To see the full event menu and explore additional recipes as they’re released, visit the official feast page:

Flaming Gryphon 12th Night 2024 Feast Menu.

Looking for printable cards or a bundled feast pack? Support the project on Ko-fi and stay tuned for downloads!

Roasted Root Vegetables – Collegium Lunch Tavern (Modern Companion Dish)

 Roasted Root Vegetables – Collegium Lunch Tavern (Modern Companion Dish)

This colorful medley of roasted root vegetables was served during the 2016 Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern as a hearty, comforting, and universally appealing side. Though roasting vegetables is such a basic and ubiquitous method that it rarely appears in medieval cookbooks, the approach is still entirely appropriate to the time period. Modern seasoning and technique were used for this version to maximize flavor and practicality for event service.

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Modern Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped

• 1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped

• 2 Yukon Gold potatoes, chopped

• 1 bunch beets, tops trimmed and scrubbed

• 2 large parsnips, peeled and chopped

• 1 yellow onion, peeled and cut into wedges

• 1 head garlic, cloves peeled

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 1–2 tsp herbs de Provence (or rosemary/thyme mix)

• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.

2. Cut all vegetables into uniform 1-inch chunks.

3. Toss with olive oil, herbs, salt, and pepper.

4. Spread on baking sheets in a single layer.

5. Roast for 40–50 minutes, turning once or twice, until edges brown and vegetables are tender.

6. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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A Note on Roasting in Period Context

While explicit “roasted vegetable” recipes are rare in surviving medieval cookbooks, roasting over coals or in ashes was a common and practical technique—especially for onions, garlic, or root vegetables. One of the closest documented parallels comes from the Libro della Cucina (14th century), in a recipe for roasted onion salad:

“Take onions; cook them in the embers, then peel them and cut them across in longish, thin slices; add a little vinegar, salt, oil, and spices, and serve.”
— De la insaleggiata di cipolle, Libro della Cucina del secolo XIV, Zambrini ed., Bologna 1863 (as translated in The Medieval Kitchen)

This recipe illustrates that the concept of roasting root vegetables, then dressing or seasoning them, would not have been unfamiliar in period. Our modern roasted medley draws on this tradition while remaining flexible and familiar for modern feast-goers.

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Served With (Collegium Lunch Tavern Menu)

– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad
– Roasted Root Vegetables (this dish)
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda

You can view the full feast overview and menu notes here.

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Cold Lentil Salad – Collegium Lunch Tavern (Modern Companion Dish)

 Cold Lentil Salad – Collegium Lunch Tavern (Modern Companion Dish)

While not a period recipe, this cold lentil salad offered a refreshing, protein-rich vegetarian option during the 2016 Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern. It was designed for make-ahead convenience and offered a contrasting texture and temperature alongside rich pies, chicken, and roasted vegetables. At the time, I did not yet have a copy of Scappi’s Opera—otherwise I might have chosen a warm lentil pottage instead! Still, this dish worked beautifully for service and gave guests a bright, fresh contrast to heavier fare. offered a refreshing, protein-rich vegetarian option during the 2016 Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern. It was designed for make-ahead convenience and offered a contrasting texture and temperature alongside rich pies, chicken, and roasted vegetables.

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Served With (Collegium Lunch Tavern Menu)

This dish was served as part of the full Collegium Lunch Tavern spread. It paired well with both the rich meats and simpler side offerings:

– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad (this dish)
– Roasted Root Vegetables
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda

You can view the full feast overview and menu notes here.

Modern Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 cup red lentils, uncooked

• 1 tbsp olive oil

• 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar

• 2 green onions, chopped

• 2 tbsp parsley, chopped

• ¼ small red onion, chopped

• 1 carrot, chopped

• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Add enough water to fully cover lentils in a deep pot and cook, covered, over medium-high heat until just tender. Drain and rinse with cold water.

2. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and vinegar.

3. In a medium bowl, combine cooked lentils with green onions, parsley, red onion, and carrot.

4. Drizzle dressing over lentils and toss gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Chill overnight and serve with crumbled feta if desired. This salad holds well for dayboard use, requires no on-site cooking, and scales easily for larger crowds—making it a reliable option for SCA tavern or lunch service.

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Lentils in Period Context

Lentils were widely known and consumed throughout medieval Europe, especially in Italian and Mediterranean cuisines. They appeared in fast-day pottages, monastic kitchens, and household recipes alike. While cold lentil salads like this aren’t documented in surviving English or French manuscripts, the ingredients—lemon, vinegar, herbs, lentils—are all within period reach. It’s a respectful modern interpretation that pairs well with heavier dishes and stands on its own for vegetarian and fasting menus.

Looking for a Period Option?

For those wanting a pre-1600 version of a lentil dish, try Per far minestra di lenti secche (To Make a Pottage of Dried Lentils), a recipe from 16th-century Italy. This version uses lentils, oil, salt, and seasonal aromatics to create a warm, hearty side suitable for meatless menus or fasting days.

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