Pizza di Molti Strati – A Renaissance Baklava-Style Pastry with Elderflower & Rosewater

Despite the familiar name, this 16th-century “pizza” from Scappi bears no resemblance to modern flatbreads. Instead, it’s a delicate multi-layered pastry, brushed with butter, dusted with sugar and elderflower, and bathed in rosewater syrup. It’s likely a descendant of early Middle Eastern “baklava”‑style desserts—transmitted along Silk Road routes and adopted by Italian Renaissance cooks.

Historical Background

The tradition of layered pastry desserts originates in Middle Eastern and Byzantine cuisines. A 13th-century Arabic confection called lauzinaj—almond paste wrapped in ultra-thin dough and drenched in syrup—was an early ancestor to European versions. Phyllo dough itself traces back to Ancient Greek and Ottoman pastry techniques.

By the 16th century, Italian cooks like Scappi adapted the concept into a simplified “cold layered pizza,” blending Western sugars, elderflower, and rosewater into a visually striking—yet humble—pastry.

A Historical Journey Through Layered Pastry

This “pizza di molti strati” connects to a rich, layered history of syrup-drenched pastry desserts—evolving from Greco-Roman flat cakes to Byzantine, Arabic, and Ottoman specialties, finally taking elegant form in Renaissance Italy.

• Greco-Roman plakous & placenta – Layered pastries with dough, cheese, and honey. Cato the Elder’s placenta cake describes alternating layers of dough and cheese, baked and sweetened with honey.
• Byzantine koptoplakous – A nut-filled, syrup-drenched cake from Constantinople, widely regarded as an early form of baklava. Cited in culinary studies on Byzantine dessert culture.
• Arabic lauzinaj – Medieval almond paste pastries wrapped in thin dough and scented with rosewater. See: Scents and Flavors – Early Baklava Recipe.
• Ottoman Baklava & Phyllo Mastery – Ottoman chefs refined paper-thin dough layering in imperial kitchens. Syrups, nuts, and floral waters became standard. See Baklava – Wikipedia.
• Italian Renaissance Adaptation – Scappi’s 1570 *pizza di molti strati* replaces nuts with elderflower, and introduces a cold-serving presentation. It reflects Italy’s interpretation of a global dessert tradition.
  🍽️ What’s in a Name? A Slice of Pizza’s Etymology
  
  The word pizza may conjure images of tomato sauce and cheese—but its linguistic roots tell a far older story. The earliest known use dates to 997 CE in a Latin document from Gaeta, Italy, referring to a simple “focaccia”-style bread. But where the term *actually* comes from remains debated:

  • Ancient Greek pikte ("fermented pastry") or pitta ("flatbread")
  • Latin pinsa (from pinsere, “to press or flatten”)
  • Old High German bizzo or pizzo (“a bite” or “mouthful”)
  • Italian pizzicare (“to pluck” quickly from the oven)
  • Even Aramaic pita, referring to flatbread

  Linguists and food historians—like Jim Chevallier—have explored these etymologies in depth. In Scappi’s 1570 *Opera*, “pizza” still referred to a layered or folded pastry, not the tomato-covered dish we know today.
  
  Source: Linguistic and historical research courtesy of Jim Chevallier. For more, see discussions on Facebook and works on bread and early pizza history.

Original Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

“Per fare la pizza di molti strati, comunemente freddi pasta secca a strati: pigli uno foglio di pasta tirata sottile... tra ciascuno spargi burro, zucchero, ed erbe di sambuco... e quando è cotta servi fredda con zucchero e acqua di rose.”
—Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)

Modern English Translation

“To make a pizza of many layers, commonly served cold: take a sheet of pasta rolled out thin... between each one sprinkle butter, sugar, and elder flowers... and when it is cooked, serve cold with sugar and rosewater.”

Renaissance Kitchen Imagery

Woodcut from Scappi’s Opera (1570), showing layered pastry prep and kitchen tools.

“Pizza di Molti Strati” Recipe (Scappi, 1570)

Ingredients

• ½ pack filo (phyllo) dough (homemade if time allows)
• ¼ lb butter, melted
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 Tbsp dried elderflower
• Rosewater, to drizzle

Method

1. Preheat oven to 400 °F (or follow filo package instructions).
2. Keep melted butter warm. Lay one sheet of filo in a greased tart pan.
3. Brush with butter, dust with sugar & elderflower. Layer three sheets, then repeat until 12 sheets are used, finishing with sugar & elderflower.
4. Slice into triangles. Bake until golden brown.
5. Let cool, then serve cold with a drizzle of rosewater.

If serving a small group, homemade phyllo is highly recommended—it adds freshness and flavor.

🌸 Floral Flourishes:
Elderflower and rosewater were prized in Renaissance kitchens for their fragrance and humoral balance. In this pastry, they elevate simple layers into something aromatic, symbolic, and beautiful.

Trays of Pizza di Molti Strati and Mele Cotogne stufate con pignoli, acqua rosa, e zuccaro — quince stewed with pine nuts, rosewater, and sugar — ready for service at Flaming Gryphon 12th Night, 2024.

Want to make this for your next feast? Try homemade filo—it’s elegant, surprisingly satisfying, and perfect with a cup of warm spiced tea.

Primary Source Access

• Scappi’s Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) – Archive.org
• Full Italian Text on Google Books (1570 Edition)

What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

🍳 What Did People Eat for Breakfast in the Middle Ages?

Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed, folded directly into the dough.

While the word "breakfast" existed in medieval English, it didn’t mean what it does today. Most people in the Middle Ages ate one or two meals per day, and early meals were typically reserved for laborers, the sick, or the very wealthy. However, there were still foods enjoyed in the morning to break the night’s fast—especially during feast days, travel, or before demanding work.

This post gathers ten historically inspired dishes from primary sources like Harleian MS 279 and Renaissance German cookbooks that could have graced a medieval table in the morning hours.

⚠️ Historical Note: The term "breakfast" in the medieval world referred to the act of breaking one's fast after sleep, not a structured meal like today. Our use here reflects the modern definition: the first meal of the day.

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1. Rastons

Rastons (Harleian MS 279): A rich, egg- and ale-enriched pastry loaf once mistaken for bread. Served sliced into “sops” — thick pieces of bread meant to soak up broth or milk — Rastons were an early morning or supper dish that blurred the line between bread and indulgent pastry. Perfect warm from the oven or reheated with broth poured over top.

2. Soupes Dorye

Soupes Dorye (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread sops soaked in almond milk, saffron, and warming spices. A gentle, nourishing dish, especially favored on fast days or during illness recovery—delicate, comforting, and easy to digest.

3. Lyode Soppes

Lyode Soppes (Harleian MS 279): A custardy bread pudding made with milk, egg, and warm spices. Served hot and soft, it’s one of the earliest surviving recipes for a sweet breakfast pudding—perfect for breaking a medieval fast.

4. Soupes Jamberlayne

Soupes Jamberlayne (Harleian MS 279): Toasted bread soaked in spiced, sweetened wine and served warm. This elegant dish reflects the medieval love of richly flavored comfort foods, especially in noble households or for special occasions.

5. Egges yn Brewte

Egges yn Brewte (Gentyll Manly Cokere, MS Pepys 1047): Poached eggs served in a saffron-colored broth with cheese and warming spices. A refined dish likely served to the wealthy or clerics, offering protein and elegance in equal measure.

6. Eyron en Poche

Eyron en Poche (Harleian MS 279): Poached eggs served with herbs in broth or sauce—simple, nourishing, and elegant. This early morning dish reflects a refined yet accessible preparation for those with access to fresh eggs and kitchen skill.

7. Pressmetzen zu Ostern

Pressmetzen zu Ostern (Renaissance Germany): Soft Lenten rolls flavored with subtle spice and meant for Easter vigil meals. While tied to liturgical feasting, they make a fitting morning bread—especially for fast-day observance or travel.

8. Spiced Apples and Pears

Spiced Apples and Pears (Chiquart’s 'On Cookery', 1420): Fruit stewed in wine, honey, and spices—a luxurious dish found in both monastic and elite kitchens. Served warm and fragrant, it made a welcome break to the morning fast in colder months.

9. Fennel and Bacon Bread

Van Coeck te Backen (Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, 16th c.): A rustic yeasted bread enriched with smoky bacon and aromatic fennel seed. This hearty loaf was likely eaten fresh in the morning or packed for travel—savory, sustaining, and deeply flavorful.

10. Frumenty and Venyson in Broth

Venyson in Broth with Frumenty (Harleian MS 279): Tender game meat in spiced broth, served with a cracked wheat porridge. Though rich by modern standards, this would have been an energizing dish for hunters or noble households before a day of labor or travel.

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These dishes reveal the breadth and nuance of medieval morning meals—even if they weren't always called "breakfast" by name. Whether you’re prepping for an SCA feast, building a persona menu, or just want to try something historically inspired, these options offer a window into what it meant to break the fast in centuries past.

Want more? Explore these tags to expand your medieval breakfast table:

• Medieval Breakfast
• Pottage
• Bread

Piatti de marzapani frigiati di oro - Plates of golden fried marzipan

Plates of Golden Fried Marzipan: A Renaissance Delight from Messisbugo

Among the lavish sweets presented at the 12th Night 2024 feast were these exquisite morsels: golden fried marzipan parcels inspired by Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s 16th-century banquet manual. As a court steward to the Duke of Ferrara, Messisbugo carefully documented not only recipes but the artistry of elite Renaissance dining. One such recipe, Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro, reflects both culinary skill and a love for edible ornament.

Original Italian (Messisbugo, 1549)

Piatti di marzapani frigiati di oro: Prendi marzapane, et fanne certi tondi o quadrelli, et involgili in una sfoglia sottile fatta di pasta, et friggili con buon strutto caldo; et cavati che saranno, spolverizzali di zucchero, et ponli in piatti, et sopra vi metterai dell’oro fino, se vorrai fare bella cosa.

English Translation

Plates of golden fried marzipan: Take marzipan and form small rounds or squares. Wrap them in a thin pastry sheet, and fry them in good hot lard. Once they are removed, sprinkle with sugar and place them on dishes. If you wish to make a beautiful presentation, place fine gold on top.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8–12)

Ingredients

• 1 frozen pie pastry (or homemade pastry dough)
• 1 1/2 cups almond flour
• 1 cup powdered sugar
• 3 tbsp water
• 1 tsp rosewater
• 1/2 tsp "common spices" (e.g., cinnamon, clove, nutmeg)

Instructions

1. Roll out the pie pastry as thin as possible.
2. Mix together almond flour, sugar, water, rosewater, and spices to form a soft marzipan dough.
3. Cut pastry into rounds or squares. Add 1 tsp of filling to each, fold over and seal.
4. Fry in hot oil until golden. Drain and sprinkle with sugar before serving.

Historical Context: Marzipan in Italian Renaissance Cuisine

Marzipan was considered a luxurious ingredient in Renaissance Italy, associated with wealth, celebration, and spectacle. Made from almonds and sugar—both costly imports—it was often shaped into elaborate sculptures or used in gilded dishes like this one. Serving it fried and topped with gold or saffron was a way to display status and culinary refinement.

The origins of marzipan are widely debated. Some trace it to the Middle East, introduced into Europe via Arab-Spanish cuisine, while others credit Italian apothecaries who sold almond-based pastes as medicinal treats. By the 15th and 16th centuries, it had become a staple of courtly desserts across Italy, Germany, and Iberia.

Research Note: This modern interpretation was informed in part by the Italian historical food blog Cucina Medievale, a trusted source for Italian Renaissance culinary research and one of our favorite reference sites.

Source Access

The original recipe appears in Cristoforo di Messisbugo’s Banchetti, composizioni di vivande et apparecchio generale (Venice, 1549). A digitized facsimile is available via the Internet Archive. (Note: the searchable text may be corrupted, but the PDF version is accurate.)

See all dishes from the 12th Night 2024 feast by browsing the 12th Night tag or checking out this collection.

Related Recipes: You might also enjoy Struffoli: Honeyed Fried Dough, another Renaissance sweet served alongside the marzipan at this feast.

Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

🍯 Honeyed Fancies: Fried Struffoli from Scappi's Kitchen

Honeyed Struffoli with Candied Fruit, Served with Marzipan at the 12th Night 2024 Feast
A modern interpretation of Scappi’s 16th-century recipe, these golden morsels were served as part of the appetizer selection.

As part of the 12th Night 2024 feast, guests were greeted with beautiful trays of struffoli — crisp, golden morsels glazed in warm honey and crowned with jeweled candied fruit. This appetizer, adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s 16th-century cookbook Opera, captures the festive spirit and elegant artistry of Renaissance banquet tables.

🍽️ Explore the Full Feast: See the complete 12th Night 2024 Menu to discover other historical dishes served during the event.

Scappi was a master cook to Pope Pius V, and his recipes reflect the sophistication of high court cuisine in Italy. These honeyed fritters, served cold, would have dazzled diners with their texture and ornamentation. The original text appears in Libro Quinto, Cap. CXXXV, and can be found in resources like Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina.

Scappi’s Original Italian (Cap. CXXXV):

Attanfi dieci oua fresche nate di quel giorno, & impastinsicon esse fior di farina alquanto piu liquida della fopradetta, & per fpatio di mezz’horasia ben rimenata sopra la tauola, & poi distendasi essa pasta in ruotoli sottili, come se si volesse fare ciambellette...

...con un coltello si taglierà e i ruotoli a dadi, & tagliati che saranno in gran numero, si lasceranno alquanto rasciugare, & poi con strutto che non sia troppo caldo, si friggeranno, avvertendo che non piglino troppo colore, & con la cocchiara forata cavisino, e si lascino scolare, poi habbisi una cazzuola con mele schiumato che sia ben caldo, & frigghifino in esso mele, dandoli una volta, & subito si cavino, & cavati che saranno, faccinsene castelli, & altre fantafie, & servinofreddi.

🍋 Modern Recipe: Honeyed Struffoli (Serves 8)

This version of struffoli preserves the festive spirit of Scappi's recipe while adapting it for a modern kitchen. These delightful bites can be made ahead and assembled just before serving.

Ingredients

• 2⅔ cups flour
• 4½ tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• Pinch of salt
• 2 medium eggs
• ⅔ cup sugar
• Zest of 1 orange
• Zest of ½ lemon

For Garnish

• 1⅓ cups honey
• Silver or gold sprinkles
• Candied cherries
• Candied orange peel

Instructions

1. In a large bowl, combine flour, softened butter, salt, sugar, citrus zest, lemon juice, and eggs. Mix vigorously by hand until a rough dough forms.
2. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3. After chilling, divide dough into 1 cm wide ropes and roll out. Cut into small pieces, about ⅓ inch in size.
4. Heat oil to 325°F. Fry pieces in small batches until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
5. Warm honey gently in a pan. Add the fried pieces and stir to coat.
6. Arrange on a platter in a mound or ring. Garnish with sprinkles and candied fruit. Serve at room temperature.

Storage Tip: Fried dough can be made up to 2–3 days in advance. Store in an airtight container and glaze with honey just before serving.

🧾 Translating Scappi: Then vs. Now

Scappi’s original recipe begins with a rich dough made from “ten fresh eggs of the day,” kneaded with fine flour until soft and elastic. Our modern version keeps the egg-based richness, but scales it for today’s kitchens—using two eggs along with butter and citrus for added aroma and softness.

Scappi instructs the cook to roll and cut the dough into “dadi” (dice), which are dried slightly and then fried in strutto (pork fat). We preserve the shape and technique but fry in neutral oil at 325°F for ease and availability. Once cooked, the pieces are tossed in “skimmed honey,” a process mirrored in our version by gently warming the honey and folding the fritters in until glazed. His final flourish—stacking the morsels into “castles and other fancies”—is echoed in our presentation, topped with candied fruit and festive sprinkles.

📚 Inspiration

This recipe was inspired by La Singolare Dottrina di M. Domenico Romoli and Scappi’s Opera, foundational texts in Renaissance culinary tradition.

Try Another Dish from the Feast: Don’t miss our recipe for Tortelletti d’Herba alla Lombarda, a savory herb-filled pasta that accompanied these sweet fritters at the table.

Tags: 12th Night, SCA Feast, Historical Recipes, Renaissance Cooking, Bartolomeo Scappi, Medieval Appetizer, Struffoli, Italian Holiday Food