Sauce Sarsoun (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430) – Medieval Almond, Sugar & Pomegranate Sauce

Sauce Sarsoun – Almond, Sugar, and Pomegranate Sauce (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Originally recorded in Harleian MS. 279, c.1430

Medieval cooks used jewel-like pomegranate seeds to decorate sauces and meats.

Serving note: For a period-forward table setting, consider this handmade red clay tableware set. (affiliate)

In fifteenth-century English kitchens, sauces were not mere accompaniments but important markers of taste and refinement. Sauce Sarsoun from Harleian MS. 279 is a striking example: a rich blend of almonds, almond milk, wine, and sugar, finished with the jewel-like brilliance of pomegranate seeds. It demonstrates the medieval love of almond-based cookery, the expensive allure of sugar, and the symbolic flourish of garnishes drawn from distant lands.

Capoun in Consewe – Medieval Chicken in Almond Broth (Harleian MS. 279)

Capoun in Consewe (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Capoun in Consewe – a luxurious, restorative pottage of chicken in almond broth.

Serving note: For a period-forward table setting, consider this handmade red clay tableware set featured in the image above. (affiliate)

Capoun in Consewe appears as recipe no. lxiiij in Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430). The word consewe likely draws on Old French roots with the sense of “to comfort/strengthen,” which suits the dish: a nourishing chicken pottage scented with parsley and savory, enriched with almonds (or egg yolks), and finished with sugar.

A capon (a castrated rooster) signaled luxury; almonds and sugar were costly imports. Together they elevate a simple boiled fowl into something fit for feast tables and restorative cookery. In humoral terms, parsley and savory (hot & dry) balance the warm, moist qualities of chicken and almond milk—this is flavor and medicine in tandem.

Herbs in Context

Parsley was praised for aiding digestion and “opening the stomach.” Savory brought a peppery sharpness and was used to correct heaviness and “wind.” Their pairing keeps the dish lively and balanced.

🍲 Did You Know?

Capoun in Consewe functioned much like modern chicken soup: gentle enough for the sick or weak, yet refined enough for feast service—especially with the luxury of almonds and sugar.

⚖️ Ingredients in Humoral Balance

• Capon / Chicken – Warm & moist; gentle, nourishing flesh.
• Parsley – Hot & dry; aids digestion, “opens the stomach.”
• Savory – Hot & dry; sharp corrective for heaviness/wind.
• Almonds / Almond milk – Warm & moist; luxurious richness, easily digested.
• Egg yolks – Hot & moist; fortifying thickener (optional).
• Sugar – Warm & moist; balancing sweetness, a mark of elite dining.
• Salt – Cold & dry; flavor enhancer and practical preservative.

Together these create a restorative, balanced pottage—truly medieval “chicken soup for the soul.”

Side-by-Side Recipe

Original (Middle English)

.lxiiij. Capoun in consewe.—Take a Capoun, & make hem clene, & sethe hym in Water, percely, Sauereye & Salt; & whan he his y-now, quarter hym; þan grynde Almaundys. & temper vppe wyth þat brothe of þe Capoun; or ellys take þe ȝolkys of Eyroun, & make it chargeaunt, & strayne þe Almaundys & boyle it; take Sugre a goode porcyoun, & do þer-yn; & when it ys y-boylid, ley þe Capoun in þe dysshe, & put þat Sew a-boue, & strawe þer-vppe-on Sugre, & send it yn with alman̛.

Modern Translation

Take a capon and clean it well. Boil it in water with parsley, savory, and salt. When it is cooked, cut it into quarters. Grind almonds and mix them with the broth from the capon (or else thicken the broth with egg yolks). Strain the almond mixture and boil it. Add a good portion of sugar. When boiled, place the capon in a dish and pour the sauce over. Strew sugar on top and serve it with almonds.

Modern Recipe

Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers

Kitchen scene from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1574). Library of Congress.

Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers (Scappi, 1570)

Updated with historical context, vegetarian/vegan alternatives, and TOA interlinks.

At my Tournament of the Arts (2024) luncheon, these went fast. Adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), they’re not meatballs but “fingers”—chunky strips of lean beef, larded, marinated in sweet–sour must and rose vinegar with warm spices, then skewered with sage and bacon and roasted. They’re dramatic, portable, and perfect for camp kitchens, dayboards, or a roast platter. Think Renaissance barbecue—minus the smoke ring, plus saffron glaze.

Original Recipe (Scappi, Opera 1570)

Per fare polpettoni alla romanesca di lombolo di boue, o di uaccina
Get the leanest part of the tenderloin… sprinkle with ground salt and fennel flour or coriander with common spices. Set four lardoons of marbled salt pork in each piece. Place them in a press with that mixture and a little rose vinegar and must syrup for three hours. Then mount them on a spit with a rasher of bacon and a sage or bay leaf between each piece; cook over a moderate fire. When done, serve hot with a sauce of their drippings together with what exuded from them in the press, somewhat thick and saffron-coloured.

Tacuinum Sanitatis, Casanatense 4182 (14th c.): roasting meat at the hearth. Public domain. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons / Biblioteca Casanatense.

Two Italian Sauces for Roasted Meat: Walnut & Green Herb (Medieval to Renaissance)

Updated with historical context & interlinks to the 2024 Tournament of the Arts lunch menu.

For the Tournament of the Arts (2024) lunch, I wanted condimenti that traveled well, didn’t need reheating, and made simple roast or cold meats sing. These two Italian sauces do exactly that: a nutty, velvety Savor di Noci alla Fiorentina (Walnut & Garlic) and a sharp, herb-forward Salsa viridis (Green Sauce). Think of them as a historical alternative to mustard—great for camp kitchens, feasts, and picnic trays.

Flavor contrast at a glance: Walnut sauce = rich & earthy · Green sauce = bright & piquant. Serve both so diners can choose their adventure.

Piatti di Salumi: Renaissance Antipasti & Mostarda (period and non-period recipe included)

“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.

Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape

Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.

Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda

While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.

Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.

For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.

Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)

How Scappi’s mostarda differs from the modern chutney used at feast

Aspect	Period (Scappi, 1570)	Modern Chutney Used	Practical Notes
Fruits	Quince & apples; candied citrus peels	Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries	Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume
Sweet/acid	Sugar + wine + grape must	Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar	Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar
Heat	Mustard essence/seed	Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne	Adjust heat post-cook to taste
Texture	Smooth, pounded sauce	Chunky, spoonable conserve	Either pairs well with salumi & cheese
Make-ahead?	Yes — improves with rest	Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated	Ideal for feast workflow

Elven Lembas – Tolkien-Inspired Sweet Cream Biscuits

Elven Lembas (Sweet Cream Biscuits)

The famed waybread of the Elves—simple, sustaining, and surprisingly tender.

Our take is a lightly sweet cream biscuit (think quick scone) that bakes up soft inside with gentle crunch on top. Perfect for tea, travel, or—naturally—second breakfast.

Apple & Blackberry Tartlets – Hobbit-Inspired Dessert

Apple & Blackberry Tartlets

“I could eat anything in the wide world now… but not an apple!” — Fili

Rustic tartlets brimming with orchard apples and hedgerow blackberries, glossed with a spoon of jam. They’re simple, juicy, and very Shire-coded.

Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon & Apple – Hobbit Feast Side

Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon & Apple

“Can I have some bacon?” — Pippin

Sweet-tart braised red cabbage with bacon and apple brings bright color and cozy flavor to the table. It’s the sort of farmhouse pan you’d expect in any well-run Hobbit hole.

Roasted Roots – Hobbit Feast Vegetable Side

Roasted Roots

“Only a bundle of carrots… and the sack of potatoes… and the mushrooms the week before!”

A sheet pan piled high with beets, parsnips, squash, potatoes, onion, and garlic—caramelized at the edges and tender within. This is countryside cooking at its best, fit for Farmer Maggot’s kitchen and yours.

A Shire Pie – Hobbit-Inspired Sausage, Mushroom & Thyme Pie

A Shire Pie (Sausage, Mushroom & Thyme)

“P'raps there are more like him round about, and we might make a pie,” said Bert.

This hearty double-crust pie channels the Shire’s love of simple, satisfying fare: well-browned mushrooms, sweet carrot and onion, and a savory sausage filling under a golden lid. It’s rustic enough for a Hobbit’s pantry and right at home on your feast table.

Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes for Lent

Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes from Scappi and the Anonimo Veneziano

Two Renaissance dishes: Scappi’s braised onions and the Anonimo Veneziano’s Florentine walnut sauce—perfect for Lenten tables and historical menus.

Renaissance Italian cooks excelled at creating rich, satisfying dishes even during Lenten fasting, when meat, dairy, and animal fats were forbidden. This post brings together two such dishes from different, yet overlapping culinary traditions: Braised Whole Onions from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) and Savor di Noci alla Fiorentina (Florentine Walnut Sauce) from the Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano, 14th–15th century). While separated by time, both recipes reflect the ingenuity of cooks in crafting full-flavored fare from vegetables, nuts, and spices.

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Historical Context

Bartolomeo Scappi (c. 1500–1577), personal chef to several popes, authored one of the most detailed Renaissance cookbooks. His onion preparations show how texture (parboil, then gentle frying/braising) and small finishings (sugar & cinnamon, or savory sauces) elevate humble ingredients. The Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano) is a late medieval Italian collection that bridges regional tastes and techniques; its Savor di Noci builds body with bread and nuts and layers in “sweet and strong” spices—an enduring Mediterranean profile that pairs beautifully with vegetables and fish.

Ingredient Notes & Substitutions (Modern vs. Historic)

• Onions: Scappi favors large onions; modern sweet onions (Vidalia, Walla Walla, Spanish) mimic the gentle flavor. Yellow storage onions work; extend the parboil and finish with a touch more oil.
• Olive oil vs. animal fat: For Lenten days, oil replaces butter/lard. Use a mild extra-virgin olive oil; historical kitchen oils varied by region and cost but olive oil is authentic to Italy.
• Verjuice vs. lemon juice: Period recipes commonly use agresto (verjuice). If unavailable, lemon juice or a mix of lemon + a splash of white grape juice or cider vinegar gives similar acidity without wine.
• Walnuts: European walnuts (English/Persian) are standard. Toast lightly if your nuts taste flat; cool before grinding to avoid bitterness.
• Parsley: Flat-leaf (Italian) parsley best matches period use; it purées cleaner than curly parsley.
• Bread & breadcrumbs: Period thickeners were yesterday’s bread crumbs. Use plain white breadcrumbs (no herbs). For gluten-free, use a neutral GF crumb; texture may be slightly looser—reduce broth by 1–2 Tbsp.
• Stock/broth: The Libro di cucina walnut sauce is built on fish broth; for meatless days use fish stock or vegetable broth. Veg broth yields a milder, greener profile that pairs well with the onions.
• Sugar & cinnamon finish (onions): Sweet seasonings on savory dishes were fashionable and humoral in intent. A light dusting is correct—aim for aromatic, not dessert-like.
• Flouring the onions: Scappi allows a light dredge before frying/braising for delicate crust and sheen. Skip for a strictly sauced presentation.
• Garlic: Raw garlic in the sauce is period-correct; simmering in broth tames sharpness. For gentler flavor, mortar the garlic with salt first.

How These Dishes Reflect Renaissance Culinary Practice & Culture

• Lenten discipline & ingenuity: Church fasting rules shaped daily menus. Cooks developed satisfying oil-based dishes (no meat/dairy/animal fats) that leaned on vegetables, nuts, bread, and fish. Braised onions in oil and a walnut-thickened sauce are textbook Lenten strategies.
• Bread as technique, not just starch: Breadcrumbs are a signature medieval–Renaissance thickener, giving body and a silky mouthfeel without dairy.
• Nuts for richness: Walnuts (and almonds) stand in for cream/butter, delivering both fat and texture. Nut sauces were common across elite and everyday kitchens.
• Sweet & savory balance: The period palate prized contrasts—sweet with savory, sour with spice. Sugar-cinnamon on onions and “sweet & strong” spice blends in sauces reflect fashionable taste and humoral thinking about balancing qualities.
• Acid frameworks: Verjuice, citrus, and vinegar brighten dishes and aid digestion. The lemon/verjuice finish on onions and the broth-simmered walnut sauce show this acid thread.
• Continuity across eras & sources: Pairing a Scappi recipe (printed, 1570) with a Libro di cucina manuscript (14th–15th c.) shows how older medieval techniques persisted and evolved in Renaissance kitchens.
• Technique-forward cookery: Parboil → drain → gentle oil cook for onions; grind → simmer to thicken for the sauce. Texture management was a core culinary skill in elite households.

Takeaway: These dishes aren’t “making do”—they’re deliberate, technique-driven plates that display Renaissance taste, texture, and balance within the constraints of the liturgical calendar.

Recipe 1: Braised Whole Onions (Scappi, 1570)

Original (summary from Scappi)

Modern Translation

Parboil large onions in salted water until well cooked. Drain and prick to release water. Optionally flour them, then fry or braise in olive oil until golden, or stuff them with a spiced nut-and-herb mixture before braising. Serve with sugar and cinnamon, or with garlic or green sauce. (Variants include stuffing with the mixture referenced in Scappi’s eggplant recipes; add cheese and eggs on non-fasting days.)

Parboil onions, drain well, and prick so excess water escapes. Fry or braise in olive oil until tender and golden. Serve sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, or dress with a savory sauce (garlic, green sauce, or the walnut sauce below). Stuffed versions use a spiced nut-herb filling and are finished with verjuice and aromatics.