Van coeck te backen (Dutch Sourdough Bread with Fennel and Bacon, 16th c.)

Kitchen Adventures – Van coeck te backen (Dutch Sourdough Bread with Fennel and Bacon, 16th c.)

Based on a historical recipe from Gheeraert Vorselman’s Nyeuwen coock boeck and Platina’s De Honesta Voluptate et Valetudine. A hearty bread with bacon and fennel seed, perfect for feasting or a flavorful rustic table loaf.

📜 Historical Note: This recipe appears in the 16th-century Dutch cookbook Nyeuwen coock boeck and draws on Platina's Italian treatise. Coquinaria’s translation and commentary helped trace its lineage and inspired this modern version.

According to food historian Christianne Muuser of Coquinaria, this Dutch recipe is derived directly from Platina’s 15th-century Latin work. While the original instructions are brief, they follow a more detailed bread recipe from Platina that includes leavening and slow baking. This post also includes three options for making sourdough starter—modern, simplified, and historical—for the enthusiastic baker.

Original Dutch Recipe (Gheeraert Vorselman)

Neemt tarwenmeel oft bloemen met warmen watere also vele als ghi behoeft, ende wercket een luttel samen, dan neemt venckelsaet ende spec ghesneden terlincxwijse ende doeget int deech ende wercket wel tsamen tot tay deech ende maect eenen ronden coec ende bacten in den oven metten brode oft op den heert, &c. Inde plaetse vanden spec moech dy nemen boter oft olijfoly. Men bact ooc coec onder de asschencolen, mer sonder spec, met sout, venckel ende olie.

 Interpretation

Take wheat meal or flour with warm water, as much as needed, and work it together slightly. Add fennel seed and diced lard (or bacon), and knead until smooth. Shape into a round cake and bake in the oven or on the hearth. Butter or oil may be used in place of lard. You may also bake this under the ashes with salt, fennel, and oil (but no bacon).

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Van coeck te backen – Dutch Bread with Fennel and Bacon

Yield: 2 medium loaves

• 1½ cups sourdough starter
• ~5 cups mixed flours (2½ cups stoneground wheat, 1½ cups bread flour, 1 cup rye flour)
• 2 to 2½ cups warm water
• 1½ tsp salt
• 1 Tbsp fennel seeds, plus extra for topping
• 6 strips bacon, diced and pan-rendered

Day 1

1. Mix starter with warm water and a pinch of salt.
2. Gradually add flours until a tacky but cohesive dough forms.
3. Cover and let rise at room temperature until doubled — this may take 8–24 hours depending on your starter and conditions.

Day 2

1. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface. Add diced bacon and fennel seeds, kneading gently to incorporate.
2. Shape into 2 round loaves. Let rise for 1–2 hours until puffed.
3. Sprinkle extra fennel and bacon on top or slash tops decoratively.
4. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for about 45 minutes. Loaves should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

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Sourdough Starter Options

1. Modern Whole Wheat Sourdough Starter

• 4⅓ cups whole-wheat flour (divided)
• 2½ cups warm water (divided)
• 2⁄3 cup + 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour (divided)

Feed and discard method over 5 days. Use once bubbly, sour-smelling, and active. For full instructions see Eating Well or above.

2. Alternate Sourdough Starter (with Yeast)

• 1 cup unbleached flour (or mix of bread/whole wheat)
• 1 cup rye flour
• 1 Tbsp honey
• 1 cup water (80°F)
• 1 tsp active dry yeast

Mix, cover, and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours until bubbly. Use or refresh before baking.

3. Historic Raisin or Currant Starter

Ferment:

• 3¼ cups raisins or currants
• 2 cups water
• 1 tsp sugar

Let ferment in sealed container for 5 days. Strain and mix resulting liquid with:

• 1¾ cups + 2 Tbsp flour
• ½ cup whole wheat flour

Mix into dough, let rise 4–6 hours. This forms your “mother” dough. Maintain with weekly flour/water feedings.

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Serving Suggestions

This bread is especially delicious with:

• Kaessuppen (savory medieval cheese soup) — spread or dip
• Man Bradet Zwybein in Bradfeift — German onion-cheese relish

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Sources & References

• Coquinaria – Nyeuwen Coock Boeck
• Platina – De Honesta Voluptate
• Curious Cuisiniere – Bauernbrot

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Explore More Medieval Breakfast Recipes:

• Rastons – Egg-enriched bread for soaking in broth
• Soupes Dorye – Toasted bread in spiced almond milk
• Lyode Soppes – Early custard-style bread pudding
• Soupes Jamberlayne – Bread soaked in mulled wine
• Egges yn Brewte – Poached eggs in spiced broth
• Eyron en Poche – Poached eggs with herbs in sauce
• Pressmetzen zu Ostern – Spiced Lenten breakfast bread
• Spiced Apples and Pears – Stewed fruit with wine and spice
• Fennel and Bacon Bread – Rustic loaf with herbs and meat
• Frumenty and Venyson – Cracked wheat porridge with game

Looking for even more morning inspiration?
Don’t miss the original article: Breakfast: Five Medieval Banquet Dishes »