Kitchen Adventures – Sops of Bread in Mulled Wine (Harleian MS. 279 (~1430) Soupes Jamberlayne)

Soupes Jamberlayne

What do you get when you add toasted pieces of sugar coated bread to wine? Soupes Jamberlayne, also known as Sops Chamberlain. This is another very easy, quick to throw together recipe that could easily be incorporated into a feast using items the cook may already have on hand.

The recipe below can be found here: Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin

.xxviij. Soupes Jamberlayne.*. [Chamberlain.]—Take Wyne, Canel, an powder of Gyngere, an Sugre, an of eche a porcyoun, þan take a straynoure & hange it on a pynne, an caste ale þer-to, an let renne twyis or þryis throgh, tyl it renne clere; an þen take Paynemaynne an kyt it in maner of brewes, an toste it, an wete it in þe same lycowre, an ley it on a dysshe, an caste blawnche powder y-now þer-on; an þan caste þe same lycour vp-on þe same soppys, an serue hem forth in maner of a potage.

Dan Myers of Medieval Cookery offers this interpretation at his web site "Medieval Cookery". I highly recommend this resource for anyone with an interest in cooking, specifically historic cooking. Please visit.

xxviij - Soupes Jamberlayne. (Note: Chamberlain.)--Take Wyne, Canel, an powder of Gyngere, an Sugre, an of eche a porcyoun, than take a straynoure and hange it on a pynne, an caste ale ther-to, an let renne twyis or thryis throgh, tyl it renne clere; an then take Paynemaynne an kyt it in maner of brewes, an toste it, an wete it in the same lycowre, an ley it on a dysshe, an caste blawnche powder y-now ther-on; an than caste the same lycour vp-on the same soppys, an serue hem forth in maner of a potage.

28. Sops Chamberlain. Take wine, cinnamon, and powdered of ginger, an sugar, and of each a portion, than take a strainer and hang it on a pin, and cast all thereto, and let run twice or thrice through, till it run clear; and then take pandemain (bread) and cut it in manner of broth, and toast it, an wet it in the same liquor, and lay it on a dish, and cast white powder enough thereon; and then cast the same liquor upon the same sops, an serve them forth in manner of a potage.

Interpreted Recipe                                                             Serves 2 as Main, 3-4 as Side

1 cup wine (I used Hunter Red from the Winery at Versailles
2 tsp. each cinnamon, ginger and sugar
Toasted bread cut into finger length strips (I used Rastons)
Powder Douce to taste

Heat wine, cinnamon, ginger and sugar till it comes to a boil.  Let boil for five minutes.  In the meantime, cut your bread into slices and toast.  When the bread has toasted cut it into finger length strips, these will be the sops for your soup.  Dip the bread into the heated wine, and place them in a bowl.

Note: If the bread gets too wet, it will be difficult to remove from the broth. Trust me on this.

Strain the heated wine and spice mixture two or three times through cheesecloth to clarify it.  I skipped this step and had no ill effect. Pour the broth over the bread and sprinkle with white powder.  Serve.

I found that this to be a very pleasant dish to eat.  The wine was very fruity, and the spices brought out those flavors.  The bread soaked up the wine, and it provided texture.  I would definitely serve this at a future banquet. One thing that I might do differently would be to put the wine in the bowl at the last minute and then top with the bread and then add the spices.  I think it would present prettier.  No matter how you present it, it's delicious!

To Serve 8 as a Side Dish (Recipe multiplied by 2 and rounded to nearest cooking fraction)

2 cup wine
1 tbsp. each cinnamon, ginger and sugar (or to taste)
Toasted bread cut into finger length strips
Powder Douce to taste

#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #harleianMS279

Kitchen Adventures – Quick Homemade Almond Milk Recipe

2 cups almond flour to 2 cups water

Almond milk is a very basic and essential ingredient in medieval cookery.  I wrote about its importance in this article: Almond Milk. Rather than reiterate what I already said, I wanted to post about a nifty, quick method of making almond milk which used up a surplus of almond flour that I had left over after making the callishones  for the Battle of Five Armies dessert course.  My current project is documenting various sops and pottages found in Harleian MS 279.  A majority of them require almond milk.  I could purchase unflavored almond milk, it has the basic ingredients needed, but quite a few recipes specified "thick" almond milk.  In other words, what I needed would have to be thicker than the commercially prepared stuff.  So I started researching on the internet for quick almond milk recipes and I found a remarkably simple recipe to make nut milk using nut flour and water here.

The recipes that I am currently working on require the almond milk to be thick. In order to create a thicker almond milk I used twice the amount of almond flour to water then the recipe called for.  I was amazed! This is a very quick, simple and delicious alternative preperation for making almond milk. I get to control what goes into it, and there are no additives that may or may not interfere with the items I will be making. I recommend you give it a try.

Kitchen Adventures – Bruet of Almaynne in lente - Rice Porridge with Dates (Harleian MS 279 (~1430))

Bruet of Almaynne in Lent 

Talk about comfort food! Bruet of Almaynne in Lente definitely needs to be served more often; creamy, sweet and delicious.  It can be put together in just a few minutes, however, I caution that it does thicken as it cools so instead of the "running" dish that the recipe called for, by the time I went to eat this; it had thickened to the consistency of a loose pudding. This recipe has been added to my "must be served at a feast" in the future list.

The term 'bruet" refers to a broth that has been thickened in some way; in this case, rice flour was added to the dish to thicken the broth slightly.

During times of Lent the eating of meat products was prohibited this included fowl, eggs, milk, cheese and butter. Fish was allowed.  Individuals could seek a special dispensation from observing the strict diet during lent, if they were elderly, pregnant, young or sick.

Individuals would partake of one meal a day, usually served after Vespers (midafternoon). The cook was expected to continue to create elaborate meals despite the prohibition on meat and dairy products.  This recipe is an example of the ingenuity of the time.

.lxviij. Bruet of Almaynne in lente.—Take fyne þikke Mylke of Almaundys; take datys, an mynce hem smal þer-on; take Sugre y-nowe, & straw þer-on, & a lytil flowre of Rys; sylt, & serue forth whyte, & loke þat it be rennyng.

Dan Myers offers this interpretation for the recipe above at his site Medieval Cookery.  If you have not visited his site. I urge you to do so!

lxviij - Bruet of Almaynne in lente. Take fyne thikke Mylke of Almaundys; take datys, an mynce hem smal ther-on; take Sugre y-nowe, and straw ther-on, and a lytilflowre of Rys; sylt, (Note: ? sprinkle.) and serue forth whyte, and loke that it be rennyng.
68. Broth of Almond in lente. --Take fine thick milk of almonds; take dates, and mynce them small thereon; take sugar enough, and strew there on, and a little flour of ryce; sprinkle and serve forth white, and look that it be running.

Interpreted Recipe:              Serves 2 as main, 3-4 as side

1 cup almond milk
1 tbsp. rice flour
2 tbsp. sugar
2-3 chopped dates

You can make your own rice flour by placing a minimum of 1/4 cup of rice into your blender and blending.  I prefer to make my own then to purchase flour that has already been made.  Be aware that homemade rice flour still retains quite a bit of texture and this does have an effect on any item that you use it with.  Rice flour can be substituted on a 1:1 ratio with wheat flour.

I added the almond milk, rice flour, sugar and 1 chipped date to a saucepan and heated it to boiling. I cooked the mixture for approximately 20 minutes in order to cook the rice completely.  If I were to serve this at the feast, it would be at this point that I would strain the mixture so that I could offer a smooth and silky soup.

I added a chopped date to decorate the dish, and liberally sprinkled additional sugar on top.

To Serve 8 as a Side Dish  (Original recipe multiplied by 2 and rounded to nearest cooking fraction)

2 cup almond milk
2 tbsp. rice flour
1/4 cup sugar (or to taste)
2-3 chopped dates
#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #harleianMS279 #lent

Kitchen Adventures – A Fifteenth Century Bread-like substance that is a pastry (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -- Rastons)

A loaf that has been baked and sliced into "sops"

Baronial 12th Night Recipe for Rastons

This month I have decided to focus on various sops and pottages from Harleian MS 279. Sops are thick slices of bread which have been soaked in liquid, usually a broth and then eaten. They were quite common during the period, yet we seldom see them featured at the banquets that are recreated in the SCA. An example of a modern day sop, would be the bread you find on top of french onion soup! Pottage is another word that can be used for a soup or a stew. For my next several posts you will see that this kind of cooking is a very simple kind of cooking, using ingredients that many cooks have on hand. I believe it would be an easy way to "add" an extra dish at the beginning of a course without breaking the budget. 

Given my focus on simple soups or stews, I wanted to create bread that would have been used in the same period. I am using a recipe for "Rastons". This recipe creates a small round loaf of bread that has been fortified with eggs. Traditionally, the top is cut from the crown of the bread, the bread removed from the inside of the loaf, crumbled up into crumbs mixed with clarified butter, the hollow refilled, the top put on and the bread baked till it was warmed. I am not planning on using a traditional method; however, as I plan on simply cutting the bread into "sops" for my next few posts.

The recipe below can be found here: Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 / edited by Thomas Austin

.xxv. Rastons.—Take fayre Flowre, & þe whyte of Eyroun, & þe ȝolke, a lytel; þan take Warme Berme, & putte al þes to-gederys, & bete hem to-gederys with þin hond tyl it be schort & þikke y-now, & caste Sugre y-now þer-to, & þenne lat reste a whyle; þan kaste in a fayre place in þe oven, & late bake y-now; & þen with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, & kepe þe cruste þat þou kyttyst; & þan pyke al þe cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with þin knyf, & saue þe sydys & al þe cruste hole with-owte; & þan caste þer-in clarifiyd Boter, & Mille*. [melle A. (mix). ] þe cromeȝ & þe botere to-gedereȝ, & keuere it a-ȝen with þe cruste, þat þou kyttest a-way; þan putte it in þe ovyn aȝen a lytil tyme; & þan take it out, & serue it fortℏ.

Dan Myers offers this interpretation for the recipe above at his site Medieval Cookery. If you have not visited his site. I urge you to do so!

xxv - Rastons. Take fayre Flowre, and the whyte of Eyroun, and the 3olke, a lytel; than take Warme Berme, and putte al thes to-gederys, and bete hem to-gederys with thin hond tyl it be schort and thikke y-now, and caste Sugre y-now ther-to, and thenne lat reste a whyle; than kaste in a fayre place in the oven, and late bake y-now; and then with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, and kepe the cruste that thou kyttyst; and than pyke al the cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with thin knyf, and saue the sydys and al the cruste hole with-owte; and than caste ther-in clarifiyd Boter, and Mille (Note: melle A. (mix)) the crome3 and the [correction; sic = MS. the the] botere to-gedere3, and keuere it a-3en with the cruste, that thou kyttest a-way; than putte it in the ovyn a3en a lytil tyme; and than take it out, and serue it forth.

25. Rastons - take fair flour, and the white of eggs, and the yolk, a little; then take Warm Barm, and put all these together, and beat them thereto, and then let rest a while: then caste in a fair place in the oven, and let bake enough: and then with a knife cut it round above in the manner of a crown, and keep the crust that thou cut; & then pick all the crumbs within together, and pick them small with thine knife, and save the sides and all the crust whole without; and then cast therein clarified butter and mix the crumbs and butter together, and cover it again with the crust, that thou cuttest away; then put in the oven again a little time; and then take it out and serve it forth.

Interpreted Recipe:

3-4 cups flour
2 tbsp. sugar
1 cup warm ale
2 eggs beaten
1 package dry yeast

I read somewhere, and I wish I had thought to save the information, that to recreate the "flavor" of ale barm, which many recipes call for, you add yeast to ale. In order to attempt to recreate the flavor of the "ale barm" the recipe calls for that is what I did. I used The Hairless Hare Brewery's "Brown Barrel Bomber" which is a bourbon barrel aged ale. I also mixed my flours with a 3:1 ratio of unbleached white to whole wheat in an attempt to simulate what the bolted flours of the time period would have been like. I also added a tsp. of real salt to the flour.



Sponge after proofing 20 minutes

I mixed a1/2 cup of flour with the ale (warmed to about 110 degrees), sugar, eggs and yeast together, let the yeast dissolve and then let it ferment until it created a sponge. I added the fermented yeast mixture to the remainder of the flour and then shaped it into a round loaf. I covered the loaf and let it rise until it had doubled in size.

Note: The dark color is coming from the very dark ale I used.

After the loaf had doubled in size I baked it in a 450 degree oven for approximately 20 minutes, until it sounded hollow. If I were following the traditional recipe at this point, I would let the loaf cool, cut the top off, hollow out the loaf, and mix the crumb with butter. Eventually, I plan to come back and revisit this recipe, completing it as it should be completed.

The bread itself is very pleasant in taste, soft textured with a good crust. I prefer it to my beloved Manchet of the French bread. The loaf is good sized, and it is not as time consuming as the other breads that I have made in the past. This is definitely on my "keeper" list.

It has been pointed out that the use of the word "bread" in this post may not be correct.



Jim Chevallier, who is much more learned then I states "CECI N'EST PAS UN PAIN (roughly --it's not bread)

I was just browsing an academic study of language which cites what the author calls a fifteenth century recipe for bread. Intriguing, since I know of no bread recipes that early. Then, following up, I found it was in fact the classic recipe for "rastons" - that is, in French, ratons, or little rats.

 

These were NOT breads. The recipe in question includes egg whites and yolks, reflecting the fact that that a raton was a PASTRY. But this is not the first time I have seen this recipe presented as being one for bread.

 

It is not. That is, if you make this recipe, it will not tell you what common bread was like in fifteenth century England.

 

A nice enough recipe. But not for bread.

#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #harleianMS279 #bread