Harleian MS 279 (~1430) - Bruet of Almaynne in lente - Rice Porridge with Dates

Bruet of Almaynne in Lent 

Talk about comfort food! Bruet of Almaynne in Lente definitely needs to be served more often; creamy, sweet and delicious.  It can be put together in just a few minutes, however, I caution that it does thicken as it cools so instead of the "running" dish that the recipe called for, by the time I went to eat this; it had thickened to the consistency of a loose pudding. This recipe has been added to my "must be served at a feast" in the future list.

The term 'bruet" refers to a broth that has been thickened in some way; in this case, rice flour was added to the dish to thicken the broth slightly.

During times of Lent the eating of meat products was prohibited this included fowl, eggs, milk, cheese and butter. Fish was allowed.  Individuals could seek a special dispensation from observing the strict diet during lent, if they were elderly, pregnant, young or sick.

Individuals would partake of one meal a day, usually served after Vespers (midafternoon). The cook was expected to continue to create elaborate meals despite the prohibition on meat and dairy products.  This recipe is an example of the ingenuity of the time.

.lxviij. Bruet of Almaynne in lente.—Take fyne þikke Mylke of Almaundys; take datys, an mynce hem smal þer-on; take Sugre y-nowe, & straw þer-on, & a lytil flowre of Rys; sylt, & serue forth whyte, & loke þat it be rennyng.

Dan Myers offers this interpretation for the recipe above at his site Medieval Cookery.  If you have not visited his site. I urge you to do so!

lxviij - Bruet of Almaynne in lente. Take fyne thikke Mylke of Almaundys; take datys, an mynce hem smal ther-on; take Sugre y-nowe, and straw ther-on, and a lytilflowre of Rys; sylt, (Note: ? sprinkle.) and serue forth whyte, and loke that it be rennyng.
68. Broth of Almond in lente. --Take fine thick milk of almonds; take dates, and mynce them small thereon; take sugar enough, and strew there on, and a little flour of ryce; sprinkle and serve forth white, and look that it be running.

Interpreted Recipe:              Serves 2 as main, 3-4 as side

1 cup almond milk
1 tbsp. rice flour
2 tbsp. sugar
2-3 chopped dates

You can make your own rice flour by placing a minimum of 1/4 cup of rice into your blender and blending.  I prefer to make my own then to purchase flour that has already been made.  Be aware that homemade rice flour still retains quite a bit of texture and this does have an effect on any item that you use it with.  Rice flour can be substituted on a 1:1 ratio with wheat flour.

I added the almond milk, rice flour, sugar and 1 chipped date to a saucepan and heated it to boiling. I cooked the mixture for approximately 20 minutes in order to cook the rice completely.  If I were to serve this at the feast, it would be at this point that I would strain the mixture so that I could offer a smooth and silky soup.

I added a chopped date to decorate the dish, and liberally sprinkled additional sugar on top.

To Serve 8 as a Side Dish  (Original recipe multiplied by 2 and rounded to nearest cooking fraction)

2 cup almond milk
2 tbsp. rice flour
1/4 cup sugar (or to taste)
2-3 chopped dates
#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #harleianMS279 #lent

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -- Rastons - A Fifteenth Century Bread-like substance that is a pastry

A loaf that has been baked and sliced into "sops"

Baronial 12th Night Recipe for Rastons

This month I have decided to focus on various sops and pottages from Harleian MS 279. Sops are thick slices of bread which have been soaked in liquid, usually a broth and then eaten. They were quite common during the period, yet we seldom see them featured at the banquets that are recreated in the SCA. An example of a modern day sop, would be the bread you find on top of french onion soup! Pottage is another word that can be used for a soup or a stew. For my next several posts you will see that this kind of cooking is a very simple kind of cooking, using ingredients that many cooks have on hand. I believe it would be an easy way to "add" an extra dish at the beginning of a course without breaking the budget. 

Given my focus on simple soups or stews, I wanted to create bread that would have been used in the same period. I am using a recipe for "Rastons". This recipe creates a small round loaf of bread that has been fortified with eggs. Traditionally, the top is cut from the crown of the bread, the bread removed from the inside of the loaf, crumbled up into crumbs mixed with clarified butter, the hollow refilled, the top put on and the bread baked till it was warmed. I am not planning on using a traditional method; however, as I plan on simply cutting the bread into "sops" for my next few posts.

The recipe below can be found here: Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 / edited by Thomas Austin

.xxv. Rastons.—Take fayre Flowre, & þe whyte of Eyroun, & þe ȝolke, a lytel; þan take Warme Berme, & putte al þes to-gederys, & bete hem to-gederys with þin hond tyl it be schort & þikke y-now, & caste Sugre y-now þer-to, & þenne lat reste a whyle; þan kaste in a fayre place in þe oven, & late bake y-now; & þen with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, & kepe þe cruste þat þou kyttyst; & þan pyke al þe cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with þin knyf, & saue þe sydys & al þe cruste hole with-owte; & þan caste þer-in clarifiyd Boter, & Mille*. [melle A. (mix). ] þe cromeȝ & þe botere to-gedereȝ, & keuere it a-ȝen with þe cruste, þat þou kyttest a-way; þan putte it in þe ovyn aȝen a lytil tyme; & þan take it out, & serue it fortℏ.

Dan Myers offers this interpretation for the recipe above at his site Medieval Cookery. If you have not visited his site. I urge you to do so!

xxv - Rastons. Take fayre Flowre, and the whyte of Eyroun, and the 3olke, a lytel; than take Warme Berme, and putte al thes to-gederys, and bete hem to-gederys with thin hond tyl it be schort and thikke y-now, and caste Sugre y-now ther-to, and thenne lat reste a whyle; than kaste in a fayre place in the oven, and late bake y-now; and then with a knyf cutte yt round a-boue in maner of a crowne, and kepe the cruste that thou kyttyst; and than pyke al the cromys withynne to-gederys, an pike hem smal with thin knyf, and saue the sydys and al the cruste hole with-owte; and than caste ther-in clarifiyd Boter, and Mille (Note: melle A. (mix)) the crome3 and the [correction; sic = MS. the the] botere to-gedere3, and keuere it a-3en with the cruste, that thou kyttest a-way; than putte it in the ovyn a3en a lytil tyme; and than take it out, and serue it forth.

25. Rastons - take fair flour, and the white of eggs, and the yolk, a little; then take Warm Barm, and put all these together, and beat them thereto, and then let rest a while: then caste in a fair place in the oven, and let bake enough: and then with a knife cut it round above in the manner of a crown, and keep the crust that thou cut; & then pick all the crumbs within together, and pick them small with thine knife, and save the sides and all the crust whole without; and then cast therein clarified butter and mix the crumbs and butter together, and cover it again with the crust, that thou cuttest away; then put in the oven again a little time; and then take it out and serve it forth.

Interpreted Recipe:

3-4 cups flour
2 tbsp. sugar
1 cup warm ale
2 eggs beaten
1 package dry yeast

I read somewhere, and I wish I had thought to save the information, that to recreate the "flavor" of ale barm, which many recipes call for, you add yeast to ale. In order to attempt to recreate the flavor of the "ale barm" the recipe calls for that is what I did. I used The Hairless Hare Brewery's "Brown Barrel Bomber" which is a bourbon barrel aged ale. I also mixed my flours with a 3:1 ratio of unbleached white to whole wheat in an attempt to simulate what the bolted flours of the time period would have been like. I also added a tsp. of real salt to the flour.



Sponge after proofing 20 minutes

I mixed a1/2 cup of flour with the ale (warmed to about 110 degrees), sugar, eggs and yeast together, let the yeast dissolve and then let it ferment until it created a sponge. I added the fermented yeast mixture to the remainder of the flour and then shaped it into a round loaf. I covered the loaf and let it rise until it had doubled in size.

Note: The dark color is coming from the very dark ale I used.

After the loaf had doubled in size I baked it in a 450 degree oven for approximately 20 minutes, until it sounded hollow. If I were following the traditional recipe at this point, I would let the loaf cool, cut the top off, hollow out the loaf, and mix the crumb with butter. Eventually, I plan to come back and revisit this recipe, completing it as it should be completed.

The bread itself is very pleasant in taste, soft textured with a good crust. I prefer it to my beloved Manchet of the French bread. The loaf is good sized, and it is not as time consuming as the other breads that I have made in the past. This is definitely on my "keeper" list.

It has been pointed out that the use of the word "bread" in this post may not be correct.



Jim Chevallier, who is much more learned then I states "CECI N'EST PAS UN PAIN (roughly --it's not bread)

I was just browsing an academic study of language which cites what the author calls a fifteenth century recipe for bread. Intriguing, since I know of no bread recipes that early. Then, following up, I found it was in fact the classic recipe for "rastons" - that is, in French, ratons, or little rats.

 

These were NOT breads. The recipe in question includes egg whites and yolks, reflecting the fact that that a raton was a PASTRY. But this is not the first time I have seen this recipe presented as being one for bread.

 

It is not. That is, if you make this recipe, it will not tell you what common bread was like in fifteenth century England.

 

A nice enough recipe. But not for bread.

#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #harleianMS279 #bread

Harleian MS. 279 (~1430) - XXIX Milke Rostys- Fried Custard

Image taken from: Two fifteenth-century cookery-books. Harleian ms. 279 (ab. 1430), & Harl. ms. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole ms. 1429, Laud ms. 553, & Douce ms. 55

Curiosity has driven me to return to interpreting and testing recipes from Harliean MS. 279, and most recently I started working with recipes for egg and dairy dishes. Milk Rostys had caught my attention, is it a cheese? Custard? What? I had theorized that it might most closely resemble a medieval grilled cheese sandwich if it were served on bread. I was wrong. Instead I was delighted to discover that Milk Rostys are their own unique thing, eggy and delightful when completed. I have added them to my repertoire of things to be served at a banquet in the future.

The recipe is found in Thomas Austin's "Two fifteenth-Century Cookery-books" in a section that has been titled "Leche Vyaundez" which is a selection of foods that can be (in the most simplified terms) sliced. It is a diverse section that includes recipes on "Brawn in Comfyte", "Cokyntryce", Gyngerbrede" and "Chawettys a-forced".

xxix Milke Rostys -- Take swete mylke, and do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle they whyte, & swenge hem, & caste there-to; colour it with safroun, and boyle it that it wexe thikke; than draw it thorw a straynoure, and nym that leuyth, & presse it: and whan it is cold, larde it, & schere on schevres, & roste it on a Greddelle, and serve f [orth].

Dan Myers offers this interpretation for the recipe above at his site Medieval Cookery. If you have not visited his site. I urge you to do so!

xxix - Milke Rostys. Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle the whyte, and swenge hem, and caste ther-to; colour it with Safroun, and boyle it so that it wexe thikke; than draw it thorw a straynoure, and nym that leuyth, (Note: Take what remains) and presse it: and whan it is cold, larde it, and schere on schevres, (Note: Shivers; thin strips) and roste it on [correction; sic = MS. [amp] on] a Gredelle, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

29. Milk Roasts. Take sweet milk and put it in a pan; take eggs with all they white and mix them and cast thereto; color it with saffron, and boil it so that it waxes thick; then draw it through a strainer, & take what remains, & press it: & when it is cold, cut it & slice in thin strips, & roast it on a Griddle & serve it forth.

Recipe Serves 2 as main, 3 to 4 as side

2 Cups Milk
3 Eggs
Pinch of saffron
** 1tsp. Salt
Butter


 

After my previous experience working with Let Lory I made a double boiler to prevent the milk roasts from burning on the bottom of the pan while waiting for the whey and curds to separate. Bring bottom pot to a boil. Heat milk and saffron to boil over medium high heat. Beat the eggs and add them to the milk (I added a tsp. of salt to the eggs).


 

Slowly bring mixture to a boil stirring constantly. Continue to stir the mixture until the mixture has thickened and curds have formed and separated from the whey.


Remove from heat and strain the cheese mixture through a strainer that has been lined with cheesecloth. Press out as much liquid as possible (I did this by placing a dish on top of the cheese and adding a one pound can on top of the dish).

The whey can be used in making bread or other items so there is no need to discard it. Take up the cheesecloth and remove the cheese to a dish. Slice the cake into 1/2 inch thick pieces.

Heat butter (bacon grease, lard) in a frying pan. Fry the slices until browned on both sides. Remove to a serving dish and serve hot.

Below is a picture of the completed dish--I tested it on three (Non-SCA) teens, a Non-SCA child under the age of ten and a Non-SCA family friend. It was all completely gone in a matter of a few minutes with folks asking for more. They were excellent hot, and very good at room temperature. I declare this a success!




To Serve 8 as a Side Dish (quantities multiplied by 2 and rounded to nearest cooking fraction)

4 Cups milk
6 eggs
pinch of saffron
2 tsp. salt

Check out these recipes which are similar found in other cookbooks.

Forme of Cury (England, 1390)

XXV - FOR TO MAKE MYLK ROST. Nym swete mylk and do yt in a panne nyn eyryn wyth al the wyte and swyng hem wel and cast therto and colowre yt wythsafroun and boyl it tyl yt wexe thikke and thanne seth yt thorw a culdore and nym that, leyyth and presse yt up on a bord and wan yt ys cold larde it and scher yt on schyverys and roste yt on a grydern and serve yt forthe.


Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

Mylke rostyd. Take swete mylke and put in panne, Swyng eyren with alle, grynde safron And do þerto. welle hit þenne, Tylle hit wax thykke, as I þe kenne. And sethe and sye hit thorowghe a cloth, Presse hit, þat leves, withouten othe. When hit is colde, leche hit with knyves. Rost hit, and messe hit forthe on schyves.



A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak mylk rostid swynge egges and swet mylk togedur put ther to saffron and boile it till it be thik then sethe it and sie it throughe a clothe and pres the remnyant and lesshe it cold and serue it in schyves.

#medievalfood #scafeast #scacook #historicfood #harleianMS279

To Make a Paste of......How to Make Fruit Paste

Paste of quince (amber), apricot (yellow) and strawberries (red)

Baronial 12th Night Plum Paste 

Late last year I started working with making fruit paste. My earliest experiment was a paste made of quince.  Since then I have expanded my experience by making Spanish Marmalade (a truy decadent confection made from dates with powdered pearls and gold leaf), and pastes made from apples, raspberries, strawberries and apricots. The most recent event that I was able to participate in included assorted fruit pastes.

Fruit paste was a very common item to find as part of an Elizabethan Banqueting course. It was a way of preserving a fruit so that it could be enjoyed year round.  Some of the earliest recipes for fruit pastes were made of quinces.  The recipe for Chardequynce below indicates that the past was to be used for the stomach. Sugar was believed to have medicinal benefits, and to "close" the stomach and help with the digestion of food.

Chardequynce         C. 1444

Chardecoynes that is good for the stomach is thus made: take a quart of clarified honey and 2 ounces of powder of pepper and meddle them together, and then take 20 quinces and 10 wardens (a kind of pear) and pare them and take out the kernels and the cores and seeth them in a clean [ale]-wort till they be tender and then stamp them in a mortar as small as thou mayest and then strain them through a strainer and that that will not [go] well through put in again and stamp it oft and oft drive it through a cloth or strainer, and if it be too dry put in half a saucerful or a little more [or wort?] for to get out the other the better and then put it to the honey and set it on the fire and make it seeth well and stir fast with a great staff and if there be 2 stirrers it is the better for both: if it be [not] strongly stirred, it will set [stick] to the vessel and then it is lost; and seeth it till it [be] sodden thick and then take it down off the fire and when it is well nigh cold put in 1/4 ounce of ginger and as much of canell [cinnamon] powdered and mddle them well together with a slice and then let it cool and put it in a box; this manner of making is good, and if it [is] thus made it will be black; if thou wilt make more at once, take  more of each one after the proportions, as much as though list.

Another manner of making and is better than the first: for to put in 2 parts of honey and 3 parts of sugar and then shall this be better than the other, and in all other things do as thou did before, for thou mayest well enough seeth thy quinces in water, and it is good enough though put no wort thereto, and if thou wilt, thou mayest make it without wardens, but it is the better with wardens.

The third manner of making is this, and is the best of all, and that is for to take sugar and quinces alike much in weight, and no honey nor pears and in all other things do as thou didst before, and this whall be whiter than that other, in asmuch as the sugar is white [so] shall the chardequynce be.

A Leechbook, Royal Medical Society MS 136

To make drie Marmalade of Peaches     C.  1587

Image taken from: A.W. A book of Cookrye (1587)

Take your peaches and pare them, and cut them from the stones, and mince them very finely, and steep them in rosewater, then strain them with rosewater through a coarse cloth or strianer into your pan that you will seeth it in: You must have to every pound of your peaches half a pound of sugar finely beaten, and put it into your pan that you do boil it in: You must reserve out a good quantity to mould your cakes or prints withall of that sugar, then set your pan on the fire and stir it till it be thick or stiff that your stick will stand upright by itself, then take it up and lay it in a platter or charger in pretty lumps as big as you will have the moulds or prints, and when it is cold print it on a fair board of sugar: and print thereon a mould or what knot or fashion you will, and bake it in an earthen pot or pan upon the embers, or in a fair cover, and keep them continually by the fire to keep them dry.

A. W., A Book of Cookrye (1587)

To make Marmalade of Damsins or Prunes     C. 1573

TAke Damsins, which ar ripe, boyle them on the Fyre with a lyttle fayre water tyll they bee softe, then draw them through a course Boulter as ye make a tart set it on the Fyre agayne seeth iton height with sufficient sugar, as you do your Quinces, dash it with sweete water. &c. and box it.  If you wil make it of Prunes, euen likewise doo put some Apples also to it, as you dyd to your Quinces.

This wise you may make Marmylade of Wardens, Peares, apples, & Medlars, Seruits or Checkers, strawberys euery one by him selfe, or els mixt it together, as you thik good.

Partridge, John., The treasurie of commodius conceits (1573)


The method that I use to make fruit paste is very simple although it can be quite time consuming to get the paste to the proper thickness and also to dry appropriately.  I have found that the paste can be quite sticky, and I roll it in sugar before serving.  This gives the pastes a very pretty jewel like quality.

I start with 1 cup of applesauce (I have found through trial and error that applesauce contains the correct amount of pectin to set the paste once it is cooked and enough water to dissolve the sugar without adding additional water.  To the applesauce I add from 1 1/2 to 2 cups of prepared fruit.  I then add equal amounts of sugar, or a mix of sugar and honey.

I like to "heat" the fruit, applesauce and sugar mix until the sugar has dissolved. At this point I will puree the fruit in a blender (yay for modern technology), and then strain it through a strainer returning  it to a pan set upon a medium to medium high heat.

Note: The pan you use *must* be non-reactive 

Heat the fruit mixture to 225 degrees F. and continue to stir at this temperature until the paste has thickened to the point that you can run your spoon through it and it leaves a trench behind in the pan.  You will also note at this point when you stir your fruit paste it comes away from the bottom and sides of the pan.  I have had the pastes come together in as little as 30 minutes and a batch that took almost 90 minutes to reach this point.

Once you have reached this point (and not before) pour your paste into a plan that has been prepared with parchment paper that has been lightly sprayed with cooking spray (trust me on this).  I keep my fruit pastes in my oven with the light turned on until they are dry to the touch on top; I then flip them over till the other side dries. This has taken as little as 24 hours and as much as four days--again it depends on the kind of fruit and the humidity.

Once the paste is dry, you can cut it into shapes and roll it in sugar to serve.  OR--you can store it in a airtight container, wrapped in parchment paper and plastic wrap until you need it.  The longer it is stored the dryer it gets.  As near as I can tell, it stores indefinitely, but you should probably use it within two or three months of making it.

#medievalfood  #scafeast  #scacook  #historicfood #elizabethan