“The Royal Feast” by Alonso Sánchez Coello (1531–1588), oil on canvas, public domain. A sumptuous Renaissance banquet scene that captures the richness and communal spirit of salumi, fruit, and condiments on the table.
Piatti di salumi, formaggi, olive, frutta fresca e secca e senape
Plates of cured meats, cheeses, olives, fresh and dried fruit, and mustard — listed on our 12th Night 2024 menu and served during the Primo seruitio posto in Tavola (first service on the table, antipasti). Charcuterie is a modern framing; the Italian period lens is salumi with fruit, bread, olives, and a sweet-hot mostarda. Prepared and plated by Dan Parker, the board leaned rustic and abundant—grapes spilling over, glossy olives, rosemary releasing aroma as diners reached in.
Period Context: Salumi & Mostarda
While “charcuterie” is a French term, the Italian table has long featured salumi—prosciutto, pancetta, lardo, coppa, and regional salami—paired with breads, olives, grapes, and preserved fruits. Renaissance sources also describe mostarda (sweet fruit with mustard heat). Bartolomeo Scappi (1570) includes a Mostarda amabile that blends cooked quince and apple with sugar, candied citrus, and mustard essence.
Scappi, Opera (1570), Libro II, cap. 276 — “Per far Mostarda amabile”
Quince and apples cooked with wine & sugar, worked with candied citrus and spiced with mustard—pounded to a smooth, sweet-hot sauce.
For this feast I used a modern, chutney-style mostarda for ease and flavor balance (link below), which sits comfortably in the same family even if the texture and acidity are more contemporary.
Mostarda: Period vs. Modern (quick comparison)
| Aspect | Period (Scappi, 1570) | Modern Chutney Used | Practical Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fruits | Quince & apples; candied citrus peels | Apples & pears; dried cherries/cranberries | Both seasonal & flexible; quince gives classic perfume |
| Sweet/acid | Sugar + wine + grape must | Sugar + white wine + cider vinegar | Modern reads more “chutney” from vinegar |
| Heat | Mustard essence/seed | Mustard seed + ground mustard + cayenne | Adjust heat post-cook to taste |
| Texture | Smooth, pounded sauce | Chunky, spoonable conserve | Either pairs well with salumi & cheese |
| Make-ahead? | Yes — improves with rest | Yes — 3–4 weeks refrigerated | Ideal for feast workflow |
