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Canabeys with Lekys — A Medieval Bean and Leek Pottage (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Canabeys with Lekys — medieval bean and leek pottage in a bowl
Canabeys with Lekys — Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430)

Originally published 3/30/2015, Updated 9/17/2025

What is “Canabeys (Canabens) with Lekys”?

Canabeys/Canabens in Harleian MS. 279 refers to cooked beans, most often the broad/fava beans familiar to medieval cooks, prepared plainly in broth or enriched with dairy and sometimes served with bacon. Combined with lekys (leeks), you get a humble, comforting pottage that fits beautifully on a fifteenth-century table—and on ours.

🥕 Dietary badge: Vegetarian as written; easily vegan. Gluten-free.

Modern Recipe: Canabeys with Lekys (Vegetarian)

Ingredients (serves ~6–8)

  • 1 lb dried beans (period: fava; modern stand-ins: Great Northern or cannellini)
  • 6 cups vegetable stock (I use 50/50 homemade + low-sodium boxed)
  • 2 large leeks, white & light green only, halved lengthwise and sliced (≈5 cups)
  • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced (a modern comfort swap for period savory)
  • 1 tsp dried savory (or 1½ tsp fresh, minced) — optional, period-adjacent
  • 2 tbsp olive oil (or 2 tbsp butter for non-vegan richness)
  • 1 small bunch parsley, chopped
  • 4–6 oz spinach or chard, chopped
  • Salt to taste; optional few grinds black pepper
  • Optional “bacon” note: 1–1½ cups vegetarian sausage crumbles or smoky sautéed mushrooms

Method

  1. Soak the beans: Cover with boiling water, soak 1 hour, drain. (If using dried favas with skins, see Cook’s Tip below.)
  2. Base aromatics: Warm oil/butter in a heavy pot. Add onion, leeks, pinch of salt; sweat until translucent. Stir in garlic and savory; cook 30 seconds.
  3. Simmer: Add beans and stock. Bring to a boil, then low simmer until beans are tender and beginning to break down (45–75 minutes depending on bean type). Salt to taste.
  4. Finish: Stir in parsley and greens; simmer 3–5 minutes. For a thicker pottage, mash some beans against the pot side or blitz very briefly.
  5. Optional richness: Fold in veggie sausage or smoky mushrooms just before serving.

Serving & Feast Notes

  • Course placement: Works as an early pottage or a Lenten dish when made without dairy.
  • Make-ahead: Improves overnight; reheat gently with a splash of stock.
  • Texture control: Add stock for soupier bowls; mash more for a trencher-friendly spoonful.

👩‍🍳 Cook’s Tip: How to Use Dried Fava Beans

If you’d like to go period-style with favas, they need a little extra care:

  1. Soak overnight: Cover beans with plenty of water 8–12 hours; drain.
  2. Slip the skins: If your beans still have skins, blanch 1–2 minutes, then pop each bean from its shell. (Pre-peeled beans skip this step.)
  3. Cook gently: Simmer in fresh water or stock until soft (45–60 minutes), skimming foam.
  4. Texture tip: Favas are a bit starchier/earthier than white beans—mash a scoop for a silky pottage.

Source favas easily: peeled dried fava beans by the pound on Etsy 🫘.

Substitutions & Variations

  • Beans: Period = fava. Modern stand-ins = cannellini/Great Northern (3 cans, rinsed, simmer ~20 minutes).
  • Vegan: Use oil, vegetable stock; add a splash of almond milk to echo the almond-milk version noted in source (3).
  • Camping-friendly: Pre-cook beans; pack sliced leeks and stock paste; reheat & thicken on site.
  • Allergens: Legumes: for a non-bean variant, use hulled barley + extra leeks (not “canabens,” but serviceable for events).

Original Recipes (Harleian MS. 279)

2 For to make canabenez

Take white beans. Ley hem in watyr rennyng too days, and chaunge the watyr. Take hem dry, then dry hem hard uppon a ston or apron a este. Then shylle them in a mylle, and do away the holys; and cleve the benys iii or iiii at the most. And then take hem clene. And so may thou kepe hem as longe as thou wylte.

3 Canabens

Take kanbens. Wesch hem, and yf thu wilte stepe hem a lytyll, & make hem up with mylke of almondys. Put therto, sugure and salt. Out of lentyn, make hem up with cowe mylke, and put therto sygure and salt and buttyrr claryfyde.

4 Canabens with Bacon

Do suete brothe yn a potte. Wesche the canabens clene and do therto, and boyle yt up: put no other lykure therto. Loke they be salte, & serve hem. Take ribbys of bacon boylyd; do away the skyn and ley hem on a dysch, and serve hem forthe as ye serve venson with formente yn brothe.

Readable Paraphrase

  • (2) Soak white beans in running water two days, changing water; dry; remove skins in a mill; split beans; store.
  • (3) Cook beans and “make them up” with almond milk (Lent) or cow’s milk with sugar, salt, and clarified butter (non-Lent).
  • (4) Cook beans in good broth, salt, and serve with boiled bacon ribs, plated as venison with frumenty.
Manuscript Note: “White beans” here does not mean modern navy/cannellini (New World). It refers to broad beans (favas) that have been soaked, de-hulled, and split—appearing pale or whitish. The directions describe making a storable split-bean, much like our split peas.

🌱 What Beans Did Medieval Cooks Use?

  • Broad/Fava beans (Vicia faba) — the standard medieval “bean” in England; used in pottages, breads, stews.
  • Chickpeas — known in Mediterranean/ Iberian sources; less common in English kitchens but present via trade.
  • Lupins / black-eyed peas — seen in parts of southern Europe; rarely noted in English cookery.
  • Not yet! Kidney, navy, pinto, and other Phaseolus beans are New World and arrive in Europe post-1500s.

Modern cooks often choose white beans for familiarity. If you want period-style favas, try peeled dried fava beans by the pound on Etsy.

Gardener’s Aside: Favas love long, cool springs (40–70°F) and 75–100 days to mature. In some areas dried Favas may be more reliable than attempting to grow your own.

Why This Matters Today

Canabeys with Lekys shows that medieval food wasn’t only spectacle; it was everyday sustenance. A simple bowl of beans and leeks crosses centuries—nourishing then and now—and still belongs beside roast meats and preserved fruits on an autumn table.

Sources

  • C. B. Hieatt, An Ordinance of Pottage; An Edition of The Fifteenth Century Culinary Recipes in Yale University's MS Beinecke 163. Prospect Books, 1988.
  • Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430), entries on beans and leeks (nos. 2–4).

Labels

Browse by Dish Type: Pottage
Browse by Ingredient: Beans & Legumes, Leek, Herbs
Browse by Use: SCA Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Camping-Friendly, Dietary Suggestions 🥕
Browse by Era: Medieval, 15th Century, English

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