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Kitchen Adventures – lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally - Pork Reinforced Royally (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally - Pork cooked in milk Reinforced Royally
This is the second of the "charlette" dishes found in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin, and the one that was least preferred of the taste testers.  

The almond milk created a finer curd then the regular milk when it was tempered with the wine, resulting in a much finer "grain" to the sliced product. This would have been a very costly dish to make with the addition of ginger, galingale, sugar and the large quantity of saffron used.  It is my belief that this was a dish to show off the wealth of the host, and not necessarily a dish that would have been eaten "every day".

This dish was the least favorite of all of the dishes that I have attempted to reinterpret and that says a lot considering the doozy's I have found; Cxxxj - A potage colde, .Cvj. Rapeye of Fleysshe and lxxj - Murrey to name a few.  This is on my "too period to be enjoyed by modern tastes list" and I do not have plans at this time to attempt to introduce the modern medieval palette to it.

.lvij. Charlet a-forcyd ryally.—Take gode Mylke of Almaunde; take tender Porke, an hew it smal, an bray it on a morter; take eyroun, an draw þorw a cloþe; temper vppe þin flesshe þer-with, an caste on þe potte; take þe mylke, an sette it ouer þe fyre; sesyn it wyth Salt an Safroun caste þer-on; boyle it, an when yt komyth on hy, a-lye it with wyne, an sette it a-doun; take vppe an ley it on a cloþe, an presse it a lytil; ondo it a-ȝen, & caste þer-on pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Sugre y-now; menge it to-gederys, presse it a-aȝen, seþe þe broþe wyl; take styf Almaunde mylke y-temperyd with Freysshe brothe, & caste þer-on Saffroun an Sugre y-now, an a lytil Salt, & boyle it, þan take and set it owt; leche now þin mete, & ley þer-of in a dysshe; take þe sewe, & ley a-boue; take Maces & Sugre, & caste þer-on, & serue forth.

lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally. Take gode Mylke of Almaunde; take tender Porke, an hew it smal, an bray it on a morter; take eyroun, an draw thorw a clothe; temper vppe thin flesshe ther-with, an caste on the potte; take the mylke, an sette it ouer the fyre; sesyn it wyth Salt an Safroun caste ther-on; boyle it, an when yt komyth on hy, a-lye it with wyne, an sette it a-doun; take vppe an ley it on a clothe, an presse it a lytil; ondo it a-3en, and caste ther-on pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Sugre y-now; menge it to-gederys, presse it a-a3en, sethe [correction; sic = MS. seye .] the brothe wyl; take styf Almaunde mylke y-temperyd with Freysshe brothe, and caste ther-on Saffroun an Sugre y-now, an a lytil Salt, and boyle it, than take and set it owt; leche now thin mete, and ley ther-of in a dysshe; take the sewe, and ley a-boue; take Maces and Sugre, and caste ther-on, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

57. Charlette Reinforced Royally - Take good milk of almond; take tender pork, and cut it small and grind it in a mortar; take eggs, and draw through a cloth; temper up the flesh there-with, and caste on a pot; take the milk, and set it over the fire; season it with salt and saffron caste there on; boil it and when it cometh on high, mix it with wine, and set it down; take up an lay it on a cloth, and press it a little, and do it again, and caste there-on powder ginger, galingale, sugar enough; mix it together, press it again, cook the broth well: take stiff almond milk mixed with fresh broth, and caste there-on saffron and sugar enough, and a little salt, and boil it, then take and set it out; slice now your meat, and lay there-of in a dish; take the sauce and lay above; take mace and sugar and caste there-on and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                          Makes approximately six 1" slices 

For the Charlette:

1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)
2 eggs
Salt to taste
Pinch of saffron
2 tbsp. wine
1/8 tsp. each ginger and galingale
1/4 tsp. sugar

For the Sauce: 

1/4 cup almond milk
Salt to taste
Pinch of Saffron 

Pinch each of mace and sugar to be dusted over the dish before serving.

Heat the pork, salt and saffron in the almond milk until it is cooked through.  In the meantime, beat the eggs with the wine and add the ginger, galingale and sugar. When the pork is cooked through, turn the heat up on the mixture and when it comes to boil add in the egg and wine mixture.  Stir constantly for approximately five minutes.  You will notice that the curds and whey will begin to separate almost immediately and the egg will begin to curd as well.  After five minutes or so, turn off the heat and allow to cool a little bit.  

Put cheesecloth into a strainer and pour the mixture into it.  Press with a plate and weights as you would for cheese (I used two 28 ounce cans).  Once the whey stops dripping from the "cheese" set it on a tray and let it cool.  Once cool slice into 1" slices and place into a shallow bowl. 

To make the sauce, heat the almond milk, salt and saffron until the desired colored is reach, stirring constantly to prevent scorching of your almond milk.  Pour the heated broth over the cheese and dust with a pinch of mace and sugar before serving. 

This made six 1" slices. I believe that two slices would make an adequate main course as the cheese is very dense in texture; so approximately three servings from 1 cup of milk, or six side servings.  You could even be creative with the cutting of your slices, making them just slightly smaller or cutting into cubes and this could serve a single table at an event. 

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.xl. Charlet forsed. Tak mylke & seeth hit & swenge therwith yolkes of ayroun & do therto & poudour of ginger, & sugur & safroun & cast therto, tak the charlet out of the broth & messe hyt in dysches, lay the sewe o noward, floures hit with poudour douce and sugur.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak charlet forced tak cowe mylk and yolks of eggs draw throughe a stren and bet it to gedur then tak freshe pork smalle hewene and cast all to gedure in a pan and colour it with saffrone and let it boile till it be on a crud then take it up and lay it on a clothe upon a bord and presse out the whey then tak the mylk of almondes or cow creme and sett it on the fyere put ther to sugur and colour it depe with saffrone then leshe out the crud and couche it in dishes and pour out the ceripe and cast on sugur and canelle and serve it.


Charlet Enforesyd. Recipe swete mylk and egges зolkes & ale, & seth pork withoute erbis, brayed, & lat it boyle tyll it do crud; and colour it with saferon, & þan take it vp & press it. Þan take creme of almondes or of kow mylk & boyle itt, & put þerto ginger & colour it depe with saferon, & lay þerof .iij. lechis or .v. in a dysh of þe charlet & poure þe [c]reme apon it; and medyl sugure, sawndyrs, & masz togydere & strew it þeron & serof it forth.


Kitchen Adventures – Pork Custard (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.lvj. Charlette)

.lvj. Charlette - Pork Custard
Todays culinary adventure from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin was a pair of related dishes consisting of meat cooked in milk.  The name itself means meat-milk --char - for flesh and lette for milk.  The first dish was a bit more favorably received then the second dish. There are recipes for dishes called "milk meats" similar to  Milke Rostys.
This might make a good breakfast dish, but it is thoroughly unappetizing to look at and I'm afraid the modern diner might have to be "talked into" giving it a try. In fact, we did place this on our list of least favorite dishes that we have tried and on the "too period for modern tastes" list.

That being said, you should try this recipe if for nothing else, the experience of putting this dish together. I'm sure additional seasonings would improve the taste, if not the look. What the dish turns out to be is a kind of "cheese" with bits of egg and meat, held together by the cheese which is created when the acid, ale, in this case comes to a boil. Be sure to chill this before attempting to slice it, otherwise it crumbles. The broth then should be piping hot when you pour it over the slices to reheat them.  

I couldn't imagine trying to create this the day of an event.  I would recommend if you are going to try this dish you create the charlette the day before the event so it has a chance to drain and cool completely. You may want to prepare extra, in case the slices fall apart.  

.lvj. Charlette.—Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; þan hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, noȝt to fatte, alle smal, an kaste þer-to; þan take Eyroun, þe whyte an the ȝolke, & draw þorw a straynoure; an whan þe lycoure ys in boyling, caste þer-to þin Eyroun and Ale, & styre it tylle it Crodde; þan presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste þer-on broþe of Beeff or of Capoun.

lvj - Charlette. Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; than hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, no3t to fatte, alle smal, an kaste ther-to; than take Eyroun, the whyte an the 3olke, and draw thorw a straynoure; an whan the lycoure ys in boyling, caste ther-to thin Eyroun and Ale, and styre it tylle it Crodde; than presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste ther-on brothe of Beeff or of Capoun.

56 - Charlette - Take milk and cast on a pot, with salt and saffron enough; then hew fair butts of calf or pork, not to fat, all small, and caste there-to; then take eggs, the white and the yolks and draw through a strainer: and when the liquor is boiling, caste there-to your eggs and ale, and stir it till it curd; then press it a little with a platter, and serve forth; save, caste there-on broth of beef or of capon.

Interpreted Recipe                                                          Makes approximately six 1" slices 

1 cup milk
1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)
Salt to taste
Pinch of saffron
2 eggs
2 tbsp. ale
1/4 cup chicken stock 

Simmer the meat in the milk with the salt and saffron until it has cooked through.  In the meantime, beat the eggs with the ale.  When the meat has cooked completely bring the milk to a boil and throw in the egg and ale mixture.  Stir constantly to prevent burning and sticking.  After a minute you will see the milk and eggs beginning to form curds.  Continue to stir for about five more minutes and remove from heat.  Let sit for five more minutes. 

Line a sieve with cheesecloth and pour the meat and egg mixture into it.  Fold the cheesecloth over and weight with a plate. I used a couple of 28 ounce cans to continue to press the mixture and strain out the whey, just like you would do if you were making cheese.  Remove from the sieve and place on a tray and into a fridge to allow to cool completely.  

Once the charlette is cooled completely, slice it into slices and set the slices in a bowl. I used "two" slices for a main dish, so this recipe would serve three as a main. They are very substantial.  Cover with chicken or beef stock that has been brought to a rolling boil, and serve. 

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.xxxix. Charlet. Tak pork & seeth it wel, hewe hit smal, cast it in a panne, breke ayroun & do therto & swynge hit wel to geder, do therto cow mylk & safroun & boyle it to gyder, salt hit and messe hit forth.


Charlet. Take sweete cowe mylk, and put into a panne, and cast in therto zolkes of eyren and the white also, and fothen porke brayed, and sage; and let hit boyle tyl hit crudde, and colour it with saffron, and dresse hit up, and serve hit forthe.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)


To mak charlet tak freche porke and sethe it and swing eggs ther withe then hewe the pork smalle and boile it in swet mylk and serue it.



Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Drawyn Grwel) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .xxiiij. Drawyn grwel - Tempered Gruel
The picture does not do the dish justice. It was much browner in the bowl.

Drawyn Grwel: A Rich and Flavorful Medieval Gruel from Harleian MS. 279

Introduction

After revisiting medieval gruel recipes for an earlier article on gruelle a-forsydde—fortified gruel enriched with pork—I found myself intrigued by a second recipe in the same manuscript. Listed as .xxiiij. Drawyn Grwel in Harleian MS. 279 (ca. 1430), this version takes the idea of gruel even further by incorporating lean beef, fresh herbs, and blood for richness and color. What emerged was not a bland peasant porridge, but a deeply savory, unexpectedly luxurious dish.

This interpretation became an instant favorite among my taste testers. One exclaimed that it “smells like biscuits and gravy in here,” and another insisted I promise to make it again. “Spoon wars” ensued over the last bites. Despite the humble ingredients, this was hearty, flavorful, and worthy of being served at any historical feast or reenactment camp.

In this post, we’ll explore the original Middle English recipe, examine its historical context, and share a practical modern adaptation that keeps its rich medieval soul intact.

What is Drawyn Grwel?

Drawyn Grwel—sometimes translated as “Tempered Gruel” or “Strained Gruel”—refers to a variation of oat soup that was enriched, then drawn through a strainer to create a smooth, refined consistency. This was not everyday peasant fare. The inclusion of lean beef, herbs like parsley and sage, and blood for coloring suggest a dish that had both nutritional and ceremonial importance.

In the culinary vocabulary of the 15th century, “drawyn” meant not only straining but also refining or purifying. Medieval cooks often strained soups and stews to remove tough particles or impurities, resulting in a smoother, more palatable final product. This preparation aligns with the period's emphasis on clarity and refinement in dishes served to noble households or for special occasions.

About Spelling Variations

Spelling in medieval manuscripts was far from standardized, and the word “gruel” is a perfect example. Across different texts, you may encounter it as grewel, gruelle, grwel, or gruell. These variations all refer to similar oat-based dishes and do not reflect distinct recipes. In this article, we preserve the original spelling as found in Harleian MS. 279—“grwel”—to maintain historical accuracy, while acknowledging the broader family of terms that modern readers may search for or recognize.

Historical Recipe from Harleian MS. 279

Original Middle English:

.xxiiij. Drawyn grwel.—Take fayre water an lene Bef, an let hem boyle; an whan þe beef hath y-boylid, take it vp an pyke it, an lete it blede in-to a vessel, an þenne caste þe blode an þe Fleysshe in-to a potte; an þanne caste þer-to Otemele, Percely, & Sawge, an make þer-of an gode grwele; þen draw it þorw a straynowre, an putte it on a fayre potte, an let it boyle; þanne caste þer-to Salt; An ȝif it be nowt brown y-now, take a litil blode an caste þer-to or it be y-draw, an make it broun y-now, an serue it forth.

Modern English Translation:

24. Strained Gruel — Take clean water and lean beef, and let them boil. When the beef has boiled, take it out and pick it, letting it bleed into a vessel. Then place the blood and the flesh into a pot. Add oatmeal, parsley, and sage to make a good gruel. Strain it through a strainer, place it into a clean pot, and let it boil. Then add salt. If it is not brown enough, add a little blood before straining to give it more color, and serve it forth.

Commentary:

This recipe offers a fascinating glimpse into 15th-century culinary practices. The dish starts by boiling lean beef to extract flavor and clarify the meat. The inclusion of blood—both to enrich the flavor and to enhance the color—is typical of the time, particularly in dishes meant to impress or nourish. Oatmeal serves as the base thickener, while parsley and sage provide herbal brightness. The straining step refines the final texture, indicating that this gruel was meant to be smooth, elegant, and suitable for upper-class tables or healing diets.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

  • 4 cups water
  • 1 pound ground beef or finely chopped lean stewing beef
  • 2 cups beef stock
  • 8 tablespoons oats (about 1/2 cup; I used a mix of steel-cut and stone-ground Scottish oats)
  • 1 tablespoon dried parsley or 3 tablespoons fresh
  • 2 teaspoons dried sage or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
  • 2 beef bouillon cubes (optional, for deeper flavor)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. Combine all ingredients in a pot and bring to a gentle boil.
  2. Simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until oats are fully cooked and meat is tender. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
  3. If using a mix of oat types, cook according to the longest recommended time (steel-cut oats take longer).
  4. Skim any foam or scum off the surface as needed.
  5. Season to taste. Serve warm.

Cook’s Notes:

  • Like the previous recipe, I did not strain the mixture. In period, this would have removed bones, hulls, gristle, and the occasional insect—not necessary with modern prep.
  • This version is still richer than likely served historically, but you could easily feed 16 people on a pound of meat if stretching the recipe for feast use.
  • Don’t use rolled oats here. They’re a post-medieval innovation and create a gluey mess in recipes like this.
  • The oats thicken beautifully and impart a toasty, nutty flavor. Combined with the beef and herbs, the final gruel is savory, comforting, and richly satisfying.

This modern version balances historical authenticity with accessibility. The result is a rich, earthy dish that bridges centuries of culinary wisdom. It’s surprisingly filling and deeply savory—perfect for cold weather, medieval feasts, or just a hearty lunch.

Culinary Techniques: Then and Now

One of the key insights from this recipe is the medieval emphasis on purification and refinement. The beef was boiled first—not just to cook it, but to clean it. In an age before refrigeration and industrial sanitation, boiling meat helped remove impurities like dirt, coagulated blood, or bone fragments. This step also created a basic broth that served as the flavorful liquid base of the gruel.

Straining, or “drawing,” was another critical step. It wasn’t simply about texture—it was also about safety and presentation. Straining ensured that bone shards, gristle, or hulls from the oats didn’t make it into the final bowl. The result was a smoother, more visually appealing dish that felt refined, even if made from humble ingredients.

In modern kitchens, we replicate these steps through initial searing or blanching, followed by simmering and fine straining. Tools like mesh strainers, blenders, and cheesecloth make it even easier to achieve the kind of clarity medieval cooks worked hard to produce by hand.

Nutritional and Medicinal Value of Oats in Period

Oats were not only a dietary staple in medieval Europe—they were also considered medicinal. Historical herbalists praised oats for their curative properties, particularly in relation to digestion, inflammation, and skin conditions. Italian herbalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli (1519–1603) described oat broth as a remedy for coughs, gallstones, and skin disorders. He even noted its cosmetic benefits: “Mixed with white lead and used to wash the countenance it makes a clear, attractive complexion.”

German botanist Adam Lonitzer (1528–1586) agreed, calling oats “a useful grain for both cattle and man.” He recommended oat gruel for intestinal regulation, inflammation, and even the treatment of ulcers and fistulas. He emphasized that oats, especially when cooked warm, were a “fortifying source of nutrition.”

These endorsements highlight how a dish like Drawyn Grwel functioned not just as food, but as preventive care—perfect for the sick, the recovering, or those seeking to maintain wellness in difficult conditions.

Taste Test: Modern Reactions to a Historic Dish

It’s one thing to talk about medieval food—and quite another to taste it. When I prepared this modern interpretation of Drawyn Grwel, it completely upended my expectations of what “gruel” should be. The aroma, described by one taste tester as “biscuits and gravy,” filled the kitchen with savory promise.

The dish was unctuous, earthy, and herbal—with the oats lending a mild nuttiness and the beef providing deep umami flavor. The sage and parsley lifted the palate just enough to keep it balanced, and the optional use of blood or drippings made the broth silky and rich.

We didn’t just finish our bowls—we scraped them clean. If gruel has a bad reputation, this version redeems it completely. It’s a dish I’d proudly serve to guests at a historical dinner, SCA event, or a cold winter brunch. And, as promised, I’ll definitely be making it again.

How to Serve Drawyn Grwel Today

While this dish originates from the 15th century, it adapts beautifully to modern serving styles—especially if you're aiming to recreate a medieval ambiance or simply enjoy a nourishing, rustic meal. For reenactment events, SCA feasts, or historical dinners, presentation matters just as much as flavor.

Serving Suggestions:

  • Use wooden bowls, stoneware, or clay pots for authenticity
  • Serve with rustic bread or black rye for dipping
  • Garnish with a small sprig of parsley or a dash of fresh sage
  • Pair with pickled vegetables, cheese, or a mug of ale

This is a one-pot dish that carries both simplicity and elegance. It's hearty enough to stand as a main meal, but also versatile enough to serve in small portions as part of a multi-course medieval menu.

Tips for Stretching the Recipe

As with many medieval recipes, Drawyn Grwel was likely intended to serve many with modest ingredients. If you're preparing for a group gathering or reenactment feast, you can easily scale the recipe by adjusting the oats and liquid content, even while keeping the meat portion minimal.

Portion Planning:

  • 1 pound of meat can comfortably serve 12–16 people when paired with enough oats and broth
  • Using groats or whole grain oats will increase the volume and texture
  • Add extra herbs or seasoning if scaling significantly to keep the flavor consistent

Whether you’re feeding a household or a historical camp, Drawyn Grwel proves that affordable ingredients can still offer memorable meals.

Final Thoughts: Gruel Worthy of a Noble Table

The phrase “medieval gruel” doesn’t usually inspire culinary excitement. But Drawyn Grwel changes that narrative. This dish blends history, nutrition, and flavor in a way that feels both comforting and surprisingly refined. With beef, herbs, and oats transformed through time-tested technique, this is more than peasant fare—it’s a bowl of the past made worthy of the present.

So don’t let the name fool you. Drawyn Grwel is delicious, nourishing, and endlessly adaptable. Whether you’re a historian, reenactor, or curious cook, this is one medieval recipe worth returning to again and again.

Oat History Quick Bites:

  • Raw oats go rancid quickly unless toasted. Steel-cut or stone-ground oats mimic medieval processing best.

  • Rolled oats? Not until the 18th century. Save them for cookies.

  • Ground oats + clean broth = a dish with serious historical roots (and surprisingly modern appeal).

This is not the gruel of Dickensian despair. It’s warm, herb-scented, and deserving of your next feast table, campfire pot, or rainy-day supper. Give it a shot — and bring a big spoon.

FAQs

Can I make Drawyn Grwel without using blood?

Yes. Blood was traditionally used for richness and color, but modern alternatives like beef drippings, dark stock, or Worcestershire sauce can substitute effectively while keeping the dish accessible.

What kind of oats are best for historical gruel?

Steel-cut or stone-ground oats (like Scottish oatmeal) are the best approximations of medieval oat preparations. Avoid rolled oats, which are a modern invention and yield an inconsistent texture.

Can Drawyn Grwel be made vegetarian?

Yes, by substituting the beef with mushrooms, lentils, or textured vegetable protein, and using a rich vegetable broth. It won’t be historically accurate, but it retains the texture and herbal elements.

How do I serve gruel at a medieval event?

Use rustic or handmade vessels, add simple garnishes like herbs, and serve alongside bread, pickled vegetables, or cheese. The key is warmth, texture, and an honest presentation.

What’s the difference between Drawyn Grwel and Grewel Eforced?

Drawyn Grwel uses beef, herbs, and blood, with a focus on straining for smoothness. Grewel Eforced typically uses pork, marrow, and saffron, and is often thicker and more textured. Both are fortified gruels, but with distinct flavor profiles and regional nuances.

Related Recipes:

For to make grewel eforced (Rylands MS 7, 1390)
Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)
.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.

For gruel of fors (Liber cure cocorum, 1430)
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)
For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced (A Noble Boke of Cookry, 1468)
A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)
To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.

To make grewell of forse (Gentyll manly Cokere, ca. 1500)
Gentyll manly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047) (England, ca. 1500)
To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.


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Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
  • 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
  • 1/4 pound ground pork
  • Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
  2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
  3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
  4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
  5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
  6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

  • Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
  • Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

  • Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
  • Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

  • Top with a poached egg for richness.
  • Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

  • Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
  • Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
  • Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

  • Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
  • Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.


To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes