Where's the Beef? Five Medieval Beef Soups

The walls are up! The tile is laid and waiting to be grouted. I am excited to see the kitchen coming back together again. I've gotten response with putting together these kinds of posts. Today's post features five different recipes for stewed beef, each unique, each delicious. I hope you try them and let me know how you liked them. Soon, very soon....I will be back to interpreting again.

Simply click the link to be taken to the page to find the recipe. Please leave me a message and let me know if you would like to see more posts like this.

Thank you!

To stew Fillets of Beefe (Madge Lorwin's Dining with William Shakespeare) Tender slices of beef, stewed in wine, lemon and herbs. I make this in the crockpot and serve it over rice. It is a welcoming dish to come home to after a hard day at work. Picture at right is part of the cooking process.  Despite constantly thinking "I need a picture of the final product" I never take one. 

vj. Beef y-Stywyd. - This recipe from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin is very reminiscent of the same flavor profiles one would expect when eating Cincinnati style chili. It was a huge hit and the taste testers were very quick to remark on how "modern" this recipe tasted. It was also very quick and easy to put together another crock pot classic.

.viij. Venyson with Furmenty. - Two recipes combined to create a comforting and tasty dish. Venison (or beef) simmered in broth, wine, and vinegar seasoned with parsley, sage, pepper, mace and cloves.  Hearty and filling when served over rice or furmenty (a creamy porridge of cracked wheat scented with saffron), or even a big chunk of bread to soak up all the flavorful broth--it would be a crime not to! You must try this.

.xxiiij. Drawyn grwel. - An unctuous and savory soup made from ground beef, cooked in a broth, thickened with oatmeal and seasoned with parsley and sage. This recipe was amazing and has changed my (and the taste testers) opinions on what gruel should be. Despite rumors to the contrary, gruel is not a flavorless, thin watery soup of unknown origin. The oats add a subtle nutty flavor, the meat is tender and the water and broth thicken considerably once cooked. A worthy dish to be served to kings and peasants alike.

.xxxvij. Autre Vele en bokenade. - Veal (or beef) and thin slivers of onions stewed gently in an almond milk based broth, flavored with warm and exotic spices and sweet currants and thickened with rice flour. Yum!! This was a beautifully easy and quick recipe to throw together, and I suspect it could be made in a crockpot. It absolutely fit the bill of "comfort food".

Five Medieval Chicken Soups to Nourish the Soul

Since my kitchen is being remodeled and I am unable to cook I thought I might try something a little different. The plumbing and electric have been completed and the tile is laid, simply waiting to be grouted. Soon, very soon....I will be back to interpreting again.

Simply click the link to be taken to the page to find the recipe. Please leave me a message and let me know if you would like to see more posts like this.

Thank you!




Harliean MS 279 (about 1430) Smale Byrdys y-stwyde - Small Birds Stewed - chicken or other small fowl stewed gently in a flavorful broth made of wine, seasoned with onions, saffron, and medieval spices.  When this was tested the commentary ran from unintelligible mumbling around spoonful's of soup, to groans of pleasure and an excited exclamation of "You have GOT to get this recipe to my mom".

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.xv. Bowres - Braised Fowl - duck, goose, or another form of fowl is braised in a flavorful broth of ale, sage and salt and served as a soup. The taste testers squabbled over who would get to eat the rest of it. 

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye - Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce - a classic dish that is still enjoyed in modern times. A beautifully golden cream sauce, seasoned liberally with garlic served with chicken. Fit for king!

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - Chykonys in bruette - Chicken in Broth  - What could be simpler then pieces of tender chicken in a flavorful broth seasoned with pepper, saffron and ginger? Simple and filling. 

Harleain MS 279 (ab. 1430) Henne in Bokenade - Stewed Chicken in Sauce -  This is a very comforting and filling dish, which could be made as saucy or as brothy as the cook desires. This dish is on my "must serve at a future feast" list. Tender bits of chicken served in its own broth, thickened with eggs and seasoned with sage, hyssop, parsley, mace, saffron and a bit of vinegar. It caused quite the uproar with the taste testers, who finally battled it out with a game of paper, rock and scissors to see who scored the leftovers.

Ten Easy Ancient Roman and Medieval Recipes You Can Try at Home

Roman banquet fresco, Casa dei Casti Amanti (Pompeii). Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

Kitchen’s under remodel? Same. So here’s a quick-start guide: ten reliable ancient Roman and late-medieval dishes you can make right now, with links to my recipes. Click through for details and modern notes.

Kitchen Adventures – .Cxv. Quynade. - Almond Milk Cream Cheese with Quince Puree (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

 Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .Cxv. Quynade. - Almond milk cream cheese with quince puree

When I first came across this recipe in  Full text of "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books. Harleian ms. 279 (ab. 1430), & Harl. ms. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole ms. 1429, Laud ms. 553, & Douce ms. 55", I knew that I *had* to make it, the difficulty was in waiting until quinces were in season.  Last year I missed the season and I nearly missed it again this year--the ability to purchase quince is only a few weeks where I live. It is a shame, because I could see this becoming a regular spread in addition to butter, marmalade's or preserves at any event.  This is a delicious spread that would go well on bread or to be used as a substitute for butter.  The picture cannot do justice to how pretty the slight yellow of the almond "cream cheese" studded with bright golden quince is. I wish I had silver or gold leaf to jazz it up. 

The taste testers raved about it. It also keeps very well, and is an alternative for those who are lactose intolerant and vegan. Do not get stressed about the ambiguity of the directions "to taste".  I wanted to taste more of the fruit and the almond and so was light with the seasonings.  Just be sure that you use equal amounts of sugar to the other seasonings you use.  For example, 1 1/2 tsp. of mixed spices +1 1/2 tsp. of sugar.  Also, note that I used a spice powder that contained cinnamon that was not called for in the original instructions.

The almond cheese is very easy to make despite the complex directions.  It is very similar to making fresh cheese from milk on your stove top.  I caution you though to be careful of getting the milk too hot.  You only want it to come to a simmer, not boil, however, if you do get the almond milk too hot (boiling), just turn off the heat and let it cool, before adding your acid--you want the enzymes to work, not destroy them.

.Cxv. Quynade.—Take Quynces, & pare hem clene, caste hem on a potte, & caste þer-to water of Rosys; do it ouer þe fyre, & hele*. [Cover. ] it faste, & let it boyle a gode whyle tyl þey ben neysshe; & ȝif þey wol not ben neysshe, bray hem in a Morter smal, draw hem þorw a straynoure; take gode Mylke of Almandys, & caste in a potte & boyle it; take whyte Wyne & Vynegre, an caste þer-to þe Mylke, & let it stonde a whyle; take þan a clene canvas, & caste þe mylke vppe-on̛, & with a platere [leaf 21 bk.] stryke it of þe cloþe, & caste it on þe potte; gedyr vppe þe quynces, & caste to þe creme, & do it ouer þe fyre, & lat boyle; take a porcyon of pouder of Clowys, of Gyngere, of Graynys of Perys, of Euery a porcyon; take Sugre y-now, with Salt, & a party of Safroun, & alle menge to-gederys; & when þou dressyst forth, plante it with foyle of Syluer.

115. Quynade/Quinade- Take quinces and pare them clean, cast them on a pot and caste there-to water of roses; do it over the fire and cover it fast, and let it boil a good while till they be soft; and if they will not be soft, bray them in a mortar small, draw them through a strainer; take good milk of almonds and caste in a pot and boil it; take white wine and vinegar, and caste there-to the milk, and let it stand a while; take than a clean canvas, & caste the milk upon, and with a platter strike it of the cloth, & cast it on the pot; gather up the quinces & caste to the cream, and do it over the fire, and let boil; take a portion of powder of cloves, of ginger, of grains of paradise, of every portion, take sugar enough, with salt & a party of saffron, and all mingle together; and when you dress it forth, plant it with foil of silver.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                    Serves 4-8 

To make Almond Cream Cheese: 

1 cup almond flour
2 cups water (Hot)
Pinch of saffron
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. salt or to taste
1 tbsp. or more of sugar to taste
1 1/2 tsp. each (or equivalent of 1 tbsp) white wine and/or white wine vinegar --can substitute lemon juice

To make quince:

4 quinces pared and chopped small
Rosewater to taste (I used 1 tsp. rose water and 1 tsp. lemon juice)
1/4 cup water
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. mixed spice powder (I used Le Menagier's fine powder of spices and added 1/8 tsp. cloves to it--yes I know, this adds cinnamon that is not used in the recipe) or to taste

To make the almond milk: Put first five ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth and creamy.  Place almond milk in a pot and bring to a simmer.  Add the acid and turn off the heat.  It will start to curdle immediately--GENTLY stir with a spoon and allow to sit a minimum of ten minutes.  Until cool is better.

Gently turn the curds into a cloth lined colander (I use white cotton pillowcases cut in half) and allow the whey to drain.  For this I wanted a fairly loose texture so I only allowed it to drain for as long as it took me to make the quince.  For a thicker creamier cheese, allow several hours over night with a weight on top to press the whey out.  This is similar to the method I used to make Harleian MS. 279 xij. Fride Creme of Almaundys- Cream cheese made from Almond Milk.

Note: The cheese can get a bit "gritty" so several internet sites with similar instructions suggest immersion blender to make a creamier cheese. I find with a "wetter" cream, that the grit is not as notable.

To cook the quince: Put all ingredients in a pot and cook until quince is tender and water is nearly gone.  I took half of the quince and pureed it in a blender. Note that you can use as much or as little rose water as you wish.  I believe modern day preparations are much stronger then that found in the late medieval period, so I tend to be lighter in my usage of it.  I want the taste to enhance but not to overpower.

Place almond cheese and quince in a pot and cook until mixture has heated thoroughly, being sure to stir constantly so that it does not burn.  Mixture will thicken as it cools so it is better to be a bit looser at this stage for a creamier spread after it cools.  Place spread in a bowl and cool.

To serve, garnish with silver leaf.

Knowing that fruit  puree was added to the almond cream cheese in the late medieval period means that I will be experimenting with other kinds of preserves in the future and calling it "Cook's Prerogative"--can you imagine cherry preserves? Nummsss!

Kitchen Adventures – .lxxxxiij. Walkys*. [Whelks. ] in bruette. (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -  .lxxxxiij. Walkys*. [Whelks. ] in bruette.

The last of the seafood shellfish recipes that I found in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin was for whelks, which is a kind of snail that was plentiful in the late Medieval period and still enjoyed in Europe today.
Whelks are difficult to get where I live, so the Cook's Thesaurus suggested periwinkles or conch, again, difficult ingredients to obtain fresh where I live.  I finally settled upon clams, which are locatable but are a bit firmer and stronger in flavor then whelk, conch or periwinkles.  The taste testers and I really enjoyed this dish, made all the better through the use of a strong home brewed beer (a lager) courtesy of my son, and dried parsley from my garden.  This is a dish that I will make again. 

.lxxxxiij. Walkys*. [Whelks. ] in bruette.—Take Walkys [supplied by ed.] an sethe in Ale, þen pyke hem clene; þan wasshem in Water an Salt be hem-self, & fyrst wyth Ale & Salt, an do so whele þey ben slepyr*. [Slippery; slimy. ]; þen putte hem in [leaf 18 bk.] Vynegre, an ley Perceli a-boue, an serue ynne.

93 - Whelks in Bruette - take whelks and boil in ale, then pick them clean; than wash them in water and salt by themselves & first with ale & salt, and do so while they be slimy; then put them in vinegar and lay parsley above and serve in.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                          Serves 2 as main, 3 or more as side

1 cup beer of choice (lager)
1 can of clams (or 1/2 pound fresh clams cleaned well)
1 1/2 to 2 tsp. vinegar or to taste
1/2 tsp. salt or to taste
Parsley for garnish

Before using fresh seafood, which I would have preferred but the poor dears sitting in the ice looked half dead and there was a fishy smell in the air the day I went to purchase at the grocery so I used canned clams instead (trusting they would be safe!), make sure that you clean your seafood very well.  There are multiple sites available on the internet with instructions to clean the shellfish of your choice.  In my case, I simply opened a can and drained off the juice, which I used in the oyster recipes.

Bring your beer to a boil, and cook your shellfish, either until the shells open (which would be a lovely sight to see), or until they are heated through.  Here you have a choice.

A) I added the vinegar and salt to the broth and topped with dried parsley and it was divine!

B) Remove your shellfish from the broth, place on the serving dish, liberally add salt, dip your parsley in vinegar and then serve.  I would probably serve with more vinegar on the side.

I went with option A because this is supposed to be a pottage, a dish cooked in a pot, and to toss the broth seemed like a waste, it was very flavorful.  The instructions are quite clear, that the whelks are to be boiled in ale long enough to loosen the muscle and allow you to remove them from their shells. If my understanding of cooking whelks is correct, they would need another boiling in salted water to remove any slime that may exist.

Another method of cleaning whelks is to place them is to soak them in water for several hours and change the water a few times. The fear is that twice boiling them would make them rubbery and difficult to eat.

We really liked this dish and I look forward to making it again when I can use fresh clams, which I can readily get.  I would definitely serve this at a feast, luncheon or, if using tinned shellfish, as a quick and easy camp supper along with some crusty bread to soak up all the yummy broth.

Kitchen Adventures – .lxxxxij. Oystrys in bruette. (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .lxxxxij. Oystrys in bruette.

The last pottage recipe in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin  for oysters is Oysters in Bruet.  It is very similar to  the previously published xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard.  The difference is in the spicing (adds cinnamon), and in the specific set of instructions "Take an schene Oystrys", indicating that for this dish the oysters should be removed from their shells.  

.lxxxxij. Oystrys in bruette.—Take an schene*. [for schele. ] Oystrys, an kepe þe water þat cometh of hem, an strayne it, an put it in a potte, & Ale þer-to, an a lytil brede þer-to; put Gyngere, Canel, Pouder of Pepir þer-to, Safroun an Salt; an whan it is y-now al-moste, putte on þin Oystrys: loke þat þey ben wyl y-wasshe for*. [on account of. ] þe schullys: & þan serue forth.


92. Oysters in Bruet - Take and shell oysters, and keep the water that come of them, and strain it, and put it in a pot, and ale there-to, and a little bread thereto; put ginger, cinnamon, powder pepper there-to, saffron and salt; and when it is enough almost, put on your oysters; look that they be well washed for the shells: and then serve forth

Interpreted Recips                                                             Serves 2 as main, 1 as side

1/2 cup Ale (dark to compliment the oysters)
1/2 to 1 can oysters 
1/2 cup oyster liquor, fish stock or clam juice
1-2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1/4 tsp. ginger
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. pepper
2-3 threads of saffron
salt to taste

For instructions on how to properly clean fresh oysters, please refer to xl. Oystres en grauey .

Bring ale and oyster liquor (fish stock or clam juice) to a boil in the pan, slowly add bread crumbs and spices.  When the mixture starts to thicken add your oysters. Cook until heated through and serve.

This was another example of using the wrong ale ruining the dish :-/ Having had such dim luck with the ginger flavored ale, I used a darker lager, which unfortunately made the dish taste muddy and slightly bitter.  The taste testers were not impressed.  BUT--they did agree that the addition of the cinnamon and not including sugar, this dish was a bit more elevated then  xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard.

My taste tester did agree that they would try this dish if it were served to them at an event, but strongly suggested that less ale, or a different ale be used (Might I suggest Guinness, porter or a stout?) If you should try any of these recipes--please leave feedback.

Oysters...strike 2!

Kitchen Adventures – .xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard

The  Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin allows an interesting look at our culinary past. Oysters were a very cheap and plentiful source of protein in the Middle Ages.  Although the oysters that were most likely eaten (ostrea edulis) were much smaller then the oysters many of us enjoy today.  So it is surprising that the manuscript only contains three specific preparations for oysters in the pottage section.

Oysters, whelks, cockles, muscles and limpets are shellfish that were plentiful. The Romans brought with them their love of shellfish when they arrive in Britain in 43AD.  After they left, the oyster fell out of favor, however, by the 8th century that was no longer case.  Oysters were once more a very popular food.

Fish and shellfish were eaten on days that meat and animal products were prohibited--Lent, all Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (in some cases), Ember Days (Wednesday, Friday and Saturday after Saint Lucia's (December 13th), Ash Wednesday after Whitsunday (8th Sunday after Easter) and Exaltation of the Cross (September 14th). In total, more then half the year meat and animal products were forbidden.

Additionally, Medieval physicians believed that serving fish and meat together in the same meal would make an individual sick.  This belief was prominent until the 17th century, where they were enjoyed as an hors d'oeuvre or main meal.

The title of this particular recipe is a bit baffling.  "Bastard" usually refers to a Spanish sweet wine (similar to a muscatel)  that became popular in the 14th Century.  However, there is no wine in the recipe below.  Perhaps if wine had been substituted for the ale this recipe would have been better enjoyed by the taste testers.  The problem wasn't the oysters but in the ale that was used.  I used a ginger flavored ale, believing that it would compliment the ginger already included in the recipe.  However, the flavor of the oysters and the ale did not marry well.  I believe this dish would have been much more successful had I used a darker beer, a stout, porter or black lager, all of which are rumored to pair well with the briny creatures.

.xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard.—Take grete Oystrys, an schale hem; an take þe water of þe Oystrys, & ale, an brede y-straynid, an þe water also, an put it on a potte, an Gyngere, Sugre, Saffron, powder pepir, and Salt, an let it boyle wyl; þen put yn þe Oystrys þer-to, and dresse it forth.

xl - Oystrys in grauy bastard. Take grete Oystrys, an schale hem; an take the water of the Oystrys, and ale, an bredey-straynid, an the water also, an put it on a potte, an Gyngere, Sugre, Saffron, powder pepir, and Salt, an let it boyle wyl; then put yn the Oystrys ther-to, and dresse it forth.

40 - Oysters in Gravy Bastard - Take great oysters, and shell them; and take the water of the oysters and ale, and bread strained, and the water also, and put it on a pot, and ginger, sugar, saffron, powder pepper and salt, and let it boil well; then put in the oysters there-to, and dress it forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                      Serves 2 as Main, 3 or more as side

1/2 cup ale (see note above)
1/2 cup oyster liquor or other fish/clam stock
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1/4 tsp. ginger
1/2 tsp. sugar
2-3 threads of saffron
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 can of oysters (don't judge!)

If you have oysters you will want to clean them.  If you are like me and you purchased a can, drain the liquor from it and mix it with the ale, spices and bread crumbs.  Bring to a boil and wait till the broth begins to thicken.  Add the oysters, and cook till heated through and thickness of sauce is to your liking.  Serve them.

As stated previously, I used the wrong ale to make this dish and the taste testers were unhappy with me.  However, we all agreed that a more complimentary ale would have created a much better dish.  Would they eat this if served at an event? The answer was no.  I will leave it to you to decide.

Kitchen Adventures – ixl. Oystres en grauey (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - ixl. Oystres en grauey 

It is rumored that King Henry IV enjoyed oysters so much that he consumed 400 in a single sitting! Bear in mind that he was probably eating the much smaller, and more delicate European (commonly known as belon) oyster (ostrea edulis).  The Romans prized oysters.  They were (and still are) considered an aphrodisiac, but they also believed that consuming oysters would improve your prowess on the battlefield.  So it should come as no surprise that guards were posted to protect oysters beds and that the cost of an oyster could be valued at a denarius--the value of a days labor.

Oysters in Gravy was the first of several recipe's I prepared featuring oysters from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin .  This is most likely one of the earliest versions of a well known classic--oyster stew, and it received the best reviews. I also prepared .xl. Oystrys in grauy bastard (oysters cooked in ale, thickened with bread and seasoned with ginger, sugar, saffron, pepper and salt) and .lxxxxij. Oystrys in bruette (oysters stewed with oyster liquor, ale, bread, ginger, cinnamon, pepper, saffron and salt). 

.ixl.*. [i.e. i from xl. ] Oystres en grauey.—Take gode Mylke of Almaundys, an drawe it wyth Wyne an gode Fysshe broþe, an sette it on þe fyre, & let boyle; & caste þer-to Clowes, Maces, Sugre an powder Gyngere, an a fewe parboylid Oynonys y-mynsyd; þan take fayre Oystrys, & parboyle hem in fayre Water, & caste hem þer-to, an lete hem boyle to-gederys; & þanne serue hem forth.

ixl - Oystres en grauey. Take gode Mylke of Almaundys, an drawe it wyth Wyne an gode Fysshe brothe, an sette it on the fyre, and let boyle; and caste ther-to Clowes, Maces, Sugre an powder Gyngere, an a fewe parboylid Oynonys y-mynsyd; than take fayre Oystrys, and parboyle hem in fayre Water, and caste hem ther-to, an lete hem boyle to-gederys; and thanne serue hem forth.

39. Oysters in gravey - Take good milk of almonds, and draw it with wine and good fish broth, and set it on the fire, and let boil; and cast there-to cloves, mace, sugar and powder ginger, and a few parboiled onions minced; then take fair oysters, and parboil them in fair water, and caste them there-to, and let them boil together; and then serve them forth.

Interpreted Recipe: 

1 c. almond milk (made by adding 1/4 c. almond flour to 1/2 cup white wine and 1/2 cup oyster/clam broth)
1 clove
1/8 tsp. mace
1/4 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. ginger
1/4 c. parboiled onions
1 can oysters
salt and pepper to taste

Purists may cringe that I used canned oysters, unfortunately getting good seafood where I live is tricky.  It has usually been frozen and then thawed and put out on display, or, it has arrived fresh off the boat still living but costs an arm and a leg. Part of the goal in creating these posts is to make sure that they are cost friendly if you are cooking in very large quantities.  Buying fresh *might* be preferred, but purchasing canned ones (for me) is cost effective and eliminated the need to "þan take fayre Oystrys, & parboyle hem in fayre Water, & caste hem þer-to".

Should you be lucky enough to be able to use fresh oysters you will first want to clean them. Oysters are a filter for the ocean (they can filter 30-50 gallons of water a day), and their shells collect a lot of debris.   You will want to make sure they are fresh, and that they are still living.  To test for life, try to open up the shell, if the shell is cracked, damaged or open, or if it does not snap back when trying to open it, discard it.  It could make you sick.

To clean,  you will need to place oysters in a colander and rinse them under cold running water.  Scrub the shells with a brush (toothbrushes work), making sure that you clean out all the dirt and the debris that has collected not only in the shell but in the creases. Once clean it is necessary to shuck the oyster to remove it from it's shell.  There is a ton of information available on how to do this on the internet.  Be sure not to spill the oyster liquor (the liquid inside of the oyster). Also, make sure to use them within two hours of opening to avoid them spoiling. 

Parboil your onions if you have not done so, otherwise, add all ingredients accept for the oysters to the almond milk and bring to a boil.  If you are using fresh oysters, you will want to parboil them while the broth is cooking. Once the almond milk has come to the boil, add your remaining oysters and cook until oysters have been thoroughly heated through, and then serve.

God bless the taste testers! Of the four recipes that were interpreted this was by far the favorite and the one that  they stated they would eat again if served at a feast. It was likened to a "high end oyster stew".  Oysters are -not- for everyone I would use caution if serving this at an event. Also, due to the likelihood of quick spoilage, you may want to consider serving them at a smaller event or luncheon. I would even caution against bringing them to a camping event, unless you are absolutely certain that they will be eaten immediately and that any leftovers will not be stored. 

Similar Recipes

Forme of Cury (England, 1390)

OYSTERS IN GRAVEY. XX.VI. I. Schyl Oysters and seeþ hem in wyne and in hare own broth. cole the broth thurgh a cloth. take almandes blaunched, grynde hem and drawe hem up with the self broth. & alye it wiþ flour of Rys. and do the oysters þerinne, cast in powdour of gyngur, sugur, macys. seeþ it not to stondyng and serue forth.

Enseignements qui enseingnent a apareillier toutes manieres de viande (France, ca. 1300 - D. Myers, trans.)

Oysters in gravy, first cooked in water and onions, with pepper and saffron and with an aillie of almonds. Oysters again with salt and bread well leavened.

Gammon of Bacon (1591) – Tudor Ham Pie with Herbs & Egg Yolk

Gammon of Bacon – A Book of Cookrye, 1591

Baked Gammon of Bacon in pastry crust — savory, spiced, and rich with herbs and egg yolk.

Gammon of Bacon comes from A Book of Cookrye (1591), a popular Elizabethan cookery book. It calls for a “gammon of bacon” — essentially a salt-cured leg or large cut of pork — stuffed with parsley, sage, and hard-cooked egg yolks, seasoned with cloves and mace, then wrapped in pastry. This dish blurs the lines between what we’d call ham, bacon, and meat pies today.

The Original Recipe (1591)

To bake a gammon of Bacon. Take your Bacon and boyle it, and stuffe it with Parcely and Sage, and yolks of hard Egges, and when it is boyled, stuffe it and let it boyle againe, season it with Pepper, cloves and mace, whole cloves stick fast in, so then lay it in your paste with salt butter.

Modern Recipe

This adaptation is based on Dan Meyers’ version with a few tweaks to better match the period instructions. Using a ham or gammon joint (rather than belly bacon) and re-simmering after stuffing brings it closer to the original Tudor technique.

Ingredients

• 2 lbs. cured ham or gammon joint (not belly bacon)
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh sage
• 6 hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed
• 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
• 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
• 1/8 tsp. ground mace
• 6–8 whole cloves (for studding)
• 1 pie crust
• 2 tbsp. salted butter

Instructions

1. Place ham/gammon in a large pot, cover with water, and boil gently for 30 minutes.
2. Mix parsley, sage, mashed egg yolks, pepper, and mace in a bowl.
3. Remove meat from the pot, cut open or slice, and stuff with the herb–egg mixture.
4. Optional (for authenticity): Return the stuffed meat to simmering water for 15 minutes before baking.
5. Stud the surface with whole cloves.
6. Wrap in pie crust, dot butter around the filling, and seal well.
7. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for about 1 hour, until the crust is golden and the meat heated through.

Cook’s Note: For individual portions, thin slices of ham can be stuffed and rolled into “olives,” then wrapped in pastry. This makes charming hand-sized pies.

Why two boilings? The 1591 recipe has you boil the gammon once to draw out excess salt, then again after stuffing to help set the filling and balance the flavors. In Tudor kitchens this also “cleansed” the meat under humoral theory, making it more wholesome. Modern hams are milder, so the second boil is optional.

Gammon vs. Bacon vs. Ham

One reason this recipe confuses modern cooks is that “gammon of bacon” in the 16th century does not map neatly onto modern terms:

• Gammon (period): A hind leg of pork cured by salting, sometimes smoked.
• Bacon (modern US): Thin slices from pork belly, usually smoked.
• Canadian Bacon: Back bacon, leaner, closer to period cuts but not salt-cured the same way.
• Ham: Cured hind leg of pork, closer to “gammon” but often sweeter/brined differently.

Best substitute for period gammon: a smoked ham or unsliced back bacon joint. Pork belly strips are too fatty for this recipe, while Canadian bacon is too lean and small.

Re-Creating Period Gammon at Home

If you want to try something closer to the Elizabethan flavor profile, here’s a simple historical-style curing method:

1. Dry cure: Rub a pork hind leg or large roast with salt, brown sugar, and a little black pepper. Cover loosely and refrigerate 5–7 days, turning daily.
2. Optional smoke: Cold-smoke over oak, applewood, or hickory for several hours.
3. Cook: Once cured, boil as the recipe instructs, then proceed with stuffing and baking.

This is not a full preservation cure (as Elizabethans might have done for winter storage), but it gives a flavor much closer to “gammon” than store-bought ham.

Historical Notes

• A Book of Cookrye (1591) was a popular English cookbook printed for household use — much shorter than elite works like The Good Huswifes Jewell or The English Huswife.
• Meat baked in pastry (coffins) was a hallmark of Tudor cooking, both as preservation and presentation.
• Egg yolks were considered warming and nourishing under humoral theory — appropriate for a “strengthening” dish.

Dietary Notes 🥕

• Contains: Pork, eggs, gluten, dairy.
• Vegetarian/Vegan: Not suitable. A meatless option could use mushrooms or seitan with the parsley-sage-egg mixture (or vegan yolk substitute).
• Gluten-free: Use a gluten-free pie crust.

Why Try This Dish?

This “gammon of bacon” makes a rich centerpiece for a Tudor-themed meal or SCA feast. The herb-egg stuffing is fragrant and holiday-like, while the crust keeps everything moist and sliceable. It’s a savory hand pie that bridges the world of bacon, ham, and pastry.

---

Dayboard Notes

Is this suitable for a dayboard? Yes! This savory pie is hearty, portable, and slices neatly, making it an excellent choice for an event lunch spread.

• Stability: The ham/gammon is already cured and cooked, and the pastry crust helps protect the filling.
• Risk: The egg yolk stuffing can spoil if left too long at warm temperatures.
• Safe window: Best served within 2–4 hours at cool room temperature (<70°F/21°C). Treat it like quiche or sausage rolls.
• Tip: Keep pies chilled before transport and bring out only what you plan to serve within the hour.

Sources

• A Book of Cookrye, 1591.
• Dan Meyers, MedievalCookery.com
• Terrence Scully, The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages.

🍽️ More from the Curia Lunch

• Curia Regis Brunch Hub
• Egges yn Brewte
• Savoury Tostyde
• Gammon of Bacon
• Eisands with Oatmeale Groats
• Funges
• Chawatteys (Harleian MS 279 (Austin), c. 1430)
• To Stew Shrimps (being taken out of their shells)
• A Fryed Meate (Pancakes) in Haste for the Second Course
• Compost
• To Dry Peaches
• Orange Marmalade
• Rose Conserve
• Comfits of Anise, Caraway & Fennel
• Quidinia of Quinces (Quince Paste)

Labels: Medieval Recipes, Tudor, Early Modern, Appetizer, Meat Pies, Pork, Eggs, Period Techniques, Curia

Vyande Ryalle (Royal Dish), Harleian MS. 279 — A Cautious Reconstruction

Updated August 19, 2025 with additional sources, context, and a best-guess interpretation.

My thinking cap! Detail from the Luttrell Psalter (British Library Add. MS 42130)

Sometimes in cooking we’re presented with a mystery: a damaged manuscript, a missing line, or a cryptic instruction that leaves us guessing. In Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (Harleian MS. 279, ab. 1430) there are several incomplete recipes. Vyande Ryalle — “Royal Dish” — is one of them. Enough survives to tempt a reconstruction, but not enough to be certain. Below is what I’ve been able to glean, why I suspect a missing element, and a cautious modern interpretation. Consider it a working theory, not gospel.

The Forme of Cury has a similarly named dish but it doesn’t resemble this one. The closest parallel I’ve found is Brawn Ryal in the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163), which repeats many of the same actions and explains ways to color the dish. That parallel is what led me to my “best guess” below.

---

What does “Vyande Ryalle” mean?

Vyande/viand could mean any “food” or “dish,” later narrowing toward meat. The Middle English Dictionary also glosses viande as elaborate preparations “boiled in almond milk or wine, thickened and colored yellow.” That aligns neatly with what we see here: almond milk, rice flour to thicken, and a directive to “color the sewe.”

Original Text & Facing Translation

Harleian MS. 279: .Cxlij. Vyande Ryalle.

.Cxlij. Vyande Ryalle. — Nyme gode Mylke of Almaundys, & do it in a potte, & sette it ouer þe fyre, & styre it tyl it boyle almost; þen take flour of Rys & of þe selue Mylke, an draw it þorwe a straynoure, & so þer-with a-lye it tylle it be Chargeaunte, & stere it faste þat it crouste noȝt; þen take [gap: ] owte of grece, & caste it þorw a Skymoure, & colour þat Sewe þer-with; þan take Sugre in confyte, & caste in y-now; sesyn it with Salt & ley þre lechys in a dysshe, & caste Aneys in comfyte þer-on, & þanne serue forth.

Modern Sense Translation

142 – Royal Dish. Take good almond milk in a pot and warm it, stirring until it almost boils. Take rice flour mixed with the same milk, strain it in, and thicken until it’s substantial, stirring so it doesn’t crust. Then take [gap] out of grease and cast it through a skimmer, and color the sewe (sauce) therewith. Add sugar in comfit to taste; season with salt; lay three slices in a dish, strew with anise in comfit, and serve.

Note: The neighboring recipe .Cxlj. Noteye colors a similar almond-and-rice base with the expressed juice of young hazel leaves, and includes minced pork or capon. Hazel leaves are indeed edible when young (foraged greens), which supports “coloring the sewe” with plant juices in this family of dishes.

What might be missing?

The line “take [gap] out of grease, and cast it through a skimmer, and color that sewe there-with” suggests something fried in fat/grease, then used to color (or enrich) the sauce. Possibilities:

• Saffron in grease (a common coloring method), then strained in.
• Meat/fish offal or brawn rendered in grease (cf. Brawn Ryal), strained to tint and enrich.
• Plant juice (e.g., hazel leaves) expressed and combined with grease, though Noteye adds the leaf juice directly.

The Wagstaff Miscellany recipes for Brawn ryal / brawn sypres / brawn bruse align strongly: blanch almonds, make hot almond milk, thicken, season sweet-sour, color with saffron (or other agents), then cut in leches (slices) to plate — and even garnish with anise in comfit, just like Vyande Ryalle. There’s also a Lenten fish version using stockfish soundes and eels, and a spectacular “egg-shell” presentation layered white/yellow/white.

Where does it appear on menus?

Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books places Vyand Ryal in the second course on both a fast-day and a meat-day menu — consistent with a dish that can be prepared either flesh-day (brawn/pork/capon) or Lenten (fish), and colored variously (saffron, plant juices, etc.).

Similar Recipe Titles

Forme of Cury [Rylands MS 7] lists Vyaund ryal with wine or rhenish wine, clarified honey, rice flour, spices, saffron, sugar cypress, mulberries or sanders, boiled “stondyng.” Different formula, same “royal” naming.

To Make Quidinia of Quinces (Delights for Ladies, Sir Hugh Platt, 1600)

Dry Peaches and Red Quince Paste Served at Curia Regis 9/10/2017

My adventures in making fruit pastes began in late 2014 when I started experimenting with Quince. At the time I was just beginning to find a passion for Medieval confectionary and that has grown as I have branched out to make additional fruit pastes, comfits, and candied fruit and preserve flowers and other assorted "Elizabethan Banqueting" dishes.

I have experimented with making golden quince paste and red quince paste.  I have a confession to make; I don't particularly care for the flavor of quince.  So this particular paste was made with mostly quince, but I did at two apples and two pears to it to up the flavor a little bit.  When I make my fruit pastes I do make them in very large batches and store them in my fridge to give away as gifts or use in feasts throughout the year.  When I was asked to cook for the Curia Regis brunch I knew that one of the items I was going to feature was quince paste.  I had several large sheets that I had previously made. One I cut into a dragon and gilded, letting the kids and their friends enjoy the cut outs from the sheet of paste and it was gone very quickly! The other I cut into squares and served either sugared or plain.  The picture above shows plain paste without additional sugar. 

I was astonished while shopping for this brunch to discover that in my area a quarter pound of any fruit paste is sold by a large grocery chain for $6.00!!  Folks, you don't need to pay that much for it - make your own! But this discovery has prompted me to examine a little bit more closely the probability of setting up a booth at a local farmers market next year for some extra income...shhhh!

Delights for Ladies (Sir Hugh Platt, 1600) 28. To Make Quidinia of Quinces - Take the kernells out of eight great Quinces, and boile them in a quart of spring water, till it come to a pinte, then put into it a quarter of a pinte of Rosewater, and one pound of fine Sugar, and so let it boile till you see it come to bee of a deepe colour: then take a drop, and drop it on the bottome of a sawcer, then let it run through a gelly bagge into a bason, then set it in your bason upon a chafing dish of coles to keep it warm, then take a spoone, and fill your boxes as full as you please, and when they be colde cover them: and if you please to printe it in moldes, you must have moldes made to the bigness of your boxe, and wet your moldes with Rosewater, and so let it run into your mold, and when it is colde turne it off into your boxes. If you wette your moldes with water, your gelly will fall out of them.

Recipe

2 to 2 1/2 pounds of quinces (I also used apples and pears)

Water to cover the fruit

2-3 cups (or more) of sugar

Wash, peel and core your fruit, wrap the peels and the cores of the fruit into cheesecloth.  You will be adding this to the pan of your fruit because that is where some of the color and pectin will be coming from.  Coarsely chop the fruit and place it and the cheesecloth wrapped discards into the pan and bring to a boil.  Allow the fruit to cook until it is very soft.  Remove the discards and place the fruit into a food processor and puree.  Alternatively you could push it through a fine grained sieve or use a ricer or food mill.  

You do want to make sure that your pulp is strained through a sieve back into the pot to remove any large lumps that might not have been caught.  The finer the pulp the smoother the fruit paste. Add your sugar to your pulp and bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer constantly stirring until the paste becomes very thick. You should be able to make a furrow with your spoon and see the bottom of your pan.  The longer the fruit cooks the redder it gets. 

Pour your paste onto a lightly oiled bit of parchment paper that has been placed into a 9x13" baking dish or a cookie sheet.  You will want something with a bit of a raised side. The thicker your paste the longer it will take to dry.  I usually try to make my paste at 3/4 to an Inch in height.  Traditionally your paste was put in a cupboard to dry but we have ovens that we can use.  Heat your oven to its lowest setting (mine is 175 degree's) and put your paste into it.  Depending on humidity and thickness of your paste and the amount of moisture left in it, drying can take as little as a few hours up to four or five days.  The paste should be dry but sticky to the touch.  You will need to turn it at least once partway through the drying process. 

Store your fruit paste in an air tight container in a cool dry place.  I use my refrigerator and have a drawer dedicated to it.  The longer the paste sits the darker and richer the color becomes.  I have stored the paste for as long as a year and I suspect it could last longer if stored properly.  The Quince Paste pictured above was made in December 2016.  Isn't it beautiful?