Kitchen Adventures – .Ciiij. Bolas - Poached Pears in Plum Sauce (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

.Ciiij. Bolas - Poached Pears in Plum Sauce

I have been quite anxious to try this recipe from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin for Bolas. It was exactly as I imagined it would be...colorful, flavorful and with a bit of a cheat, exceptionally easy to put together. Additionally, this dish wowed the taste testers when presented. 

.Ciiij. Bolas.—Take fayre Bolasse, wasshe hem clene, & in Wyne boyle hem þat þey be but skaldyd bywese, & boyle hem alle to pomppe,*. [Pulp. ] & draw hem þorw a straynoure, & a-lye hem with flowre of Rys, & make it chargeaunt, & do it to þe fyre, & boyl it; take it of, & do þer-to whyte Sugre, gyngere, Clowys, Maces, Canelle, & stere it wyl to-gederys: þanne take gode perys, [leaf 19 bk.] & sethe hem wel with þe Stalke, & sette hem to kele, & pare hem clene, and pyke owt þe corys; þan take datis, & wasshe hem clene, & pyke owt þe Stonys, & fylle hem fulle of blaunche poudere: þan take þe Stalke of þe Perys, take þe Bolas, & ley .iij. lechys in a dysshe, & sette þin perys þer-yn.

Ciiij - Bolas. Take fayre Bolasse, wasshe hem clene, and in Wyne boyle hem that they be but skaldyd bywese, and boyle hem alle to pomppe, (Note: Pulp) and draw hem thorw a straynoure, and a-lye hem with flowre of Rys, and make it chargeaunt, and do it to the fyre, and boyl it; take it of, and do ther-to whyte Sugre, gyngere, Clowys, Maces, Canelle, and stere it wyl to-gederys: thanne take gode perys, and sethe hem wel with the Stalke, and sette hem to kele, and pare hem clene, and pyke owt the corys; than take datis, and wasshe hem clene, and pyke owt the Stonys, and fylle hem fulle of blaunche poudere: than take the Stalke of the Perys, take the Bolas, and ley .iij. lechys in a dysshe, and sette thin perys ther-yn.

54 - Bolas - Take fair bullace, wash them clean, and in wine boil them that they be but scalded and steeped, and boil them all to pulp and draw them through a strainer, and mix them with flour of rice, and make it thick, and do it to the fire, and boil it; take it off and do there-to white sugar, ginger, cloves, maces, cinnamon, and stir it well together: then take good pears, and cook them well with the stalk, and set them to cool, and pare them clean, and pick out the cores; then take dates, and wash them clean, and pick out the stones, and fill them full of white powder: than take the stalk of the pears, take the plums, and lay three slices in a dish, and set your pears there-in. 

Interpreted Recipe                                       Serves 2 as a Main, 3 as a side

3 Plums

1 cup wine

1tbsp. rice flour

2 tbsp. sugar

1/4 tsp. ginger

1/8 tsp. each clove and mace

1/4 tsp. cinnamon 

1 pear poached in water (I used sliced canned pears)

2 dates cut in half longwise

Blanch Powder

Clean and wash your plums and cut into chunks and place in a pot, along with wine, sugar, ginger, cloves, mace and cinnamon.  Allow to cook until the fruit has softened into a pulp. I used about a teaspoon of pólvora de duque (see below) instead of the individual spices along with additional sugar. 

If you are not going to employ the cheat method of using sliced pears that have been canned, poach your pear in a second pot.  I had truly planned on using a small Bosc pear, but it was eaten by one of the family taste testers who didn't realize it was for this recipe~laughs~!!  So a quick run to the closest store yielded caned pears as a quick substitute, otherwise it would have been a further run to get a fresh pear :-/

To poach your pear, peel it, core it and cut it into six slices. Place in a pan with about 1/4 cup of sugar and water to cover.  Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer gently until a knife inserted into the widest part of one of the slices pierces it. Remove them from the pan and allow to cool.  This saves you the extra steps later of coring and slicing after the pear has been poached. 

While the pear and plums are cooking, slice your dates in half and fill with your white powder. Set aside until you are ready to plate. 

When the plums have softened, place them into a blender and blend until smooth.  Strain the pulp through a strainer into the pot you cooked them in and bring to a low heat.  Add your rice flour and cook until it has thickened, add more rice flour if you prefer a thicker sauce.  I cooked mine to the consistency of cream gravy and it was GOOOD!

To serve, put your plum sauce into the bottom of a bowl, arrange three (or four) slices of your pear in the dish, and place the spice filled dates in between the pear slices.  The final arrangement should resemble a flower. 

This was a beautiful dish! I believe I may exercise "cook's preogative" the next time I make it (it is part of a bid I did for an upcoming event so keep your finger's crossed) and add a touch of saffron to the pears when I poach them.  The yellow of the saffron poached pears against the ruby plum sauce should be very regal to look at. 

The plums and the pear perfectly complement each other and the spice filled dates, far from being overly sweet add a hint of sweetness that is needed.  The taste testers and I fought over this, each attempting to get one more bite.  This is definitely on the list of things to make again. It was surprisingly easy to put together, and with the exception of filling the dates with the blanch powder and arranging the pears and dates on the plum sauce, could be made ahead of time and put together the day of an event. 

This recipe asks for "blaunche poudere".  After my interpretation of .Cj. Eyron en poche was published the question was raised; what is blaunche poudere? It is one of the mysterious medieval spice blends that must have been known in period. I imagined that it would be heavier on the sugar than any other ingredient making it "whiter" then the other spice blends that were used in period. With the question in mind, I set out on a quest to try to discover what "blaunch poudere" is. 

I started with what was known. A set of instructions found in Le Menagier de Paris (ab 1393) for fine spice powder:

FINE POWDER of spices. Take an ounce and a drachma of white ginger, a quarter-ounce of hand-picked cinnamon, half a quarter-ounce each of grains and cloves, and a quarter-ounce of rock sugar, and grind to powder.

To understand the instructions for fine powder it is first necessary to understand the system of weights and measures that are being used. In this period of history, the pound was based on the "Apothecary Weight" which is 12 ounces and not the 16 ounces we think of today.

This weight system was not standardized and weights varied from region to region. The Apothecary system was based on the concept of the weight of grain. The grain (weighting approximately 0.065 grams or 0.002 ounces) was the earliest and most uniform unit of measure. This measurement varied by region and culture dependent upon if the weight was the measure of a single grain of barley or a single grain of wheat (1 barley grain weighed approximately 1 1/3 grains of wheat) taken from the middle of the stalk.

With the understanding that the weight of a grain varied depending on which grain was being weighed, I offer my best interpretation of what the modern day US measurement would be.

The spice powder instructions that are found in Le Menagier de Paris refer to a drachma. The drachma is the measure of the weight of the Greek drachma which weighed approximately 52 grains or 2 drams. With this information in mind, the instructions for "Fine Powder" can be interpreted thus:

Interpreted Recipe

Fine Powder of Spices

Take an ounce and a drachma of white ginger = 10 drams of white ginger ~ approximately 7 1/2 tsp. or 2 1/2 tablespoons of white ginger
a quarter-ounce of hand-picked cinnamon = ~ approximately 1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
half a quarter-ounce each of grains and cloves = ~ approximately 3/4 tsp. each grains of paradise and cloves
and a quarter-ounce of rock sugar, and grind to powder - ~ approximately 1 1/2 tsp. sugar

The resulting powder is pale brown. But, it is much darker then what you would expect from a powder that was described as "white".

So I moved forward and started looking for spice blends that might fit the profile of white powder, by looking at Rupert de Nola's Libre del Coch (ab 1529) which gives instructions for Common Sauce Spices. Amended.

Libre del Coch

Roughly translated from Spanish to English (thank you Google) this set of instructions can be translated to be:

Cinnamon three parts; cloves two parts; one piece ginger; pepper a part/ some dry coriander well ground/ a little saffron be all well ground and sifted.

This set of instructions yielded a mixture of spices that were a dark reddish brown and I believe too dark for "white powder".

Interpreted Recipe

Common Sauce Spices, Amended

Cinnamon three parts
Cloves two parts
Ginger one part
Pepper one part
Dry Coriander (ground) 1/2 part
Pinch of Saffron

Delving further into the Libre del Coch De Nola offered another set of instructions for a blend of spices that might be the elusive "white powder." Certainly the ingredients when fully interpreted would yield a powder that was heavy on the sugar, but would it be "white"?

Roughly translated (again thank you Google) from Spanish to English this set of instructions can be interpreted to be:

Pólvora de duque. Enmendado, translated to English "The Duke's Gunpowder. Amended."

Cinnamon half an ounce, cloves half a quarter, and for the lords do not lie down but only cinnamon and sugar a pound if you want it sharp of flavor and for passions of the stomach throw you and little ginger

 Interpreted Recipe

Cinnamon half an ounce --1 tbsp.
Cloves half a quarter (1/8th of an ounce) --3/4 tsp.
Sugar a pound -- (based on the 12 ounce pound) 1 1/2 cups
Ginger - a little --1 tbsp.

This mixture of spices, while not completely white, yields a very light tan powder. This is the mixture that I have used in my interpretation for Bolas and is pictured as the powder filling the dates.

Note: A dry ounce is equal to two tablespoons, or 1/8th of a cup.

My search for the elusive "blaunch poudere" ended when I located a set of instructions in The haven of health Chiefly gathered for the comfort of students, and consequently of all those that have a care of their health, amplified upon five words of Hippocrates, written Epid. 6. Labour, cibus, potio, somnus, Venus. Hereunto is added a preservation from the pestilence, with a short censure of the late sicknes at Oxford. By Thomas Coghan Master of Arts, and Batcheler of Physicke by Thomas Cogan. This book was published in 1636, which puts it into the grey area of period for the SCA. However, Thomas Cogan is documented as having died in 1607. Although I have been unable to locate it, the first edition of The Haven of Health was published either in 1584 or 1586.

CHAP: 126. Of Ginger.

GInger is hot in the second degree, and dry in the first. It is the root of a certaine herbe, as Galen writeth. It heateth the stomacke, and helpeth dige∣stion, and is good for the sight. For this experience I have of Ginger, that a penny weight thereof toge∣ther with three penny weight of white sugar both made very small in powder and •earsed through lawne or a fine boulter cloth, and put into the eie, hath with∣in short time worne away a flegme growne over the eie: also with two ounces of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, & half a quarter of an ounce of Cina∣mon, al beaten smal into powder, you may make a ve∣ry good blanch powder, to strow upon rosted apples, Quinces, or Wardens, or to sauce a hen. But that gin∣ger which is called greene Ginger, or ginger Condite, is better for students: for being well made, if it be ta∣ken in the morning fasting, it comforteth much the stomacke and head, and quickneth remembrance, and is very good for a cough.

Interpreted Recipe

2 ounces of sugar = 4 tbsp. sugar

1/4 ounce of ginger = approximately 1 1/2 tsp.  

1/8th ounce cinnamon = approximately 3/4 tsp. 

This powder creates a very light sandy colored spice mix which is just a touch lighter then the pólvora de duque or Duke's Powder.  I believe if I had used ground cassia cinnamon instead of the regular store bought cinnamon this powder would have been even lighter.  Because of the Cogan's reference to this being "a very good blanch powder", I believe this is the "white" powder that is referenced in Harleian MS 279. 

Kitchen Adventures – .Cv. Lorey de Boolas - Plum Curd (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

.Cv. Lorey de Boolas - Plum Curd

This recipe from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin was quite a surprise for me. The finished product is a beautiful rose colored, piquant fruit "curd". It might even be the precursor to modern day fruit curds. It lacks the butter that you would find in modern day curds, replacing it with bread crumbs. It also lacks sugar; the recipe specifies that you are to use skimmed honey. 

The taste testers were quite pleased with this dish, and this is something I plan on making in the future to give away as gifts. I also imagine that you could use it with other fruits; berries, apricots, lemon.

What is a fruit curd? It is a spread or a topping that in modern day is served with scones, bread, cheesecake, etc. I'm not sure it would have been a good keeping recipe, despite the wine and the honey that was added to it. If I were to serve this at an event (and it does go on the list of good things other people should eat at a medieval reenactment event), I think I would serve it as an alternative to butter, perhaps as a sauce to accompany a roasted meat, in a tart, or even with custard or cheesecake. The flavor of plum is intensified and a little bit goes a long way (I added some of this to oatmeal...yums...It made a very delicious breakfast).

Plums, like roses, apricots, peaches and cherries, are a member of the Rosaceae family and have a very long history of use. It is believed that the common European plum is approximately 2,000 years old and originates in or around the Caspian Sea. There is evidence that dried plums, also known as prunes, were a staple food of the Tartars, Mongols, Turks and Huns. Alexander the Great is believed to have introduced a variety of damson plums to Greece from either Syria or Persia. There are over 100 species of plums with 30 of them being native to North America.

The title of this recipe, leads me to believe that the specific plum that should be used is the bullace, which has a black skin. This is why I chose to use the darkest skinned plums I was able to locate.

.Cv. Lorey de Boolas.—Take Bolas, & seþe hem a lytil, & draw hem þorw a straynoure, & caste hem in a broþe; & do þer-to Brede y-gratyd, & boyle y-fere, & ȝolkys of eyroun y-swengyd, & a-lyid; take Canel, and Galyngale, Skemyd hony, & do þer-to, & sethe wyl, & serue forth.

Cv - Lorey de Boolas. Take Bolas, and sethe hem a lytil, and draw hem thorw a straynoure, and caste hem in a brothe; and do ther-to Brede y-gratyd, and boyle y-fere, and 3olkys of eyroun y-swengyd, and a-lyid; take Canel, and Galyngale, Skemyd hony, and do ther-to, and sethe wyl, and serue forth.

105 - Lorey of Bullace - Take bullace, and cook them a little, and draw them through a strainor, and caste them in a broth; and do thereto bread grated, and boil together; and yolks of eggs beaten, and mixed; take cinnamon and galingale, skimmed honey and do there-to and cook well, and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                        makes approximately 1 cup              

2 plums cut in chunks
1 cup wine ( I used a sweet white)
1-2 tbspl. honey
1- 2 tbsp. bread crumbs
2 egg yolks
1/4 tsp. each cinnamon and honey

Clean and wash your plums and cut into chunks.  Place in a pan with the wine, honey and spices, and allow to cook until the fruit is softened and the skin begins to shred.  Say a thank you for modern technology and put your fruit into a blender and puree it :-)

Strain the pureed fruit into your pan and bring to a low simmer.  Beat the bread crumbs into the egg yolks and temper them by adding a bit of the lovely ruby red plum sauce to the eggs and bread crumb.  Return the tempered eggs to the pot and stir, stir, stir until it thickens.  It is thick enough when it coats the back of your spoon rather than drips off. This will take between five and ten minutes.  During this process taste for sweetness--the sweetness of the final product is dependent on the ripeness of the fruit and your particular taste.  I was happy with just a tablespoon of honey.

Strain your curd through a strainer to remove any bread crumbs or bits of egg from it and allow to cool. It will thicken a bit more as it cools.

I can understand why this recipe might have been overlooked;  the instructions are a bit confusing.  It does not specify what kind of broth, and specifies the addition of two thickeners (bread and egg yolk). However, this recipe could not be simpler to put together, and I was very happy with the outcome.  Like modern day fruit curds, I believe this would be a dish a cook could make ahead of time and keep.


            

Kitchen Adventures – .Cj. Eyron en poche. - Eggs Poached (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

.Cj. Eyron en poche. - Eggs Poached

This is one of the first recipes that I have run across in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin that specifies to "poach" the food.  I love poached eggs and I have been holding on to this recipe as a "reward" for making a couple of dishes that I was not sure I would enjoy.  Poaching is a cooking method where moist heat is used to gently cook the food. This method of cooking food can trace it's origins back to ancient times, one of the oldest cookbooks, Apicius's "De re Coquinaria" the cook is instructed to cook several dishes in liquid.  Le viandier de Taillevent one of the earliest printed  cookery books introduced poaching to a larger audience, however, poaching became more prevalant in the 17th century.

I learned how to poach eggs from my grandmother.  She would faithfully bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a little bit of vinegar "to set the whites" to the water and then using a spoon would create a whirlpool in the pot before gently cracking the egg into it. That is the method that I used with this recipe.  For more information on how to poach an egg, click here.

The taste testers and I agreed this was a very pretty dish, savory and sweet at the same time, the poached egg floating in the middle of a thickened sauce was a playful illusion of an egg cooked over easy.  I would serve this at a luncheon with some crispy toasts to act as sops, and thin slices of ham. Yummmsss!!

Opinions varied on the dish; one taste tester declared "it wasn't for them". They liked how it looked but they would have preferred a more savory dish.  Another tester wanted it to be a lot sweeter. I was happy with the balanced taste.

.Cj. Eyron en poche.—Take Eyroun, breke hem, an sethe hem in hot Water; þan take hem Vppe as hole as þou may; þan take flowre, an melle with Mylke, & caste þer-to Sugre or Hony, & a lytel pouder Gyngere, an boyle alle y-fere, & coloure with Safroun; an ley þin Eyroun in dysshys, & caste þe Sewe a-boue, & caste on pouder y-now. Blawnche pouder ys best.

Cj - Eyron en poche. Take Eyroun, breke hem, an sethe hem in hot Water; than take hem Vppe as hole as thou may; than take flowre, an melle with Mylke, and caste ther-to Sugre or Hony, and a lytel pouder Gyngere, an boyle alle y-fere, and coloure with Safroun; an ley thin Eyroun in dysshys, and caste the Sewe a-boue, and caste on pouder y-now. Blawnche pouder ys best.

101. Eggs in Poach - take eggs, break them, and cook them in hot water; then take them up as whole as you may; then take flour and mix with milk, and caste there-to sugar or honey, and a little powder ginger, an boil all together, and color with saffron; and lay your eggs in dishes and case the sauce above, and cast on powder enough.  White powder is best. 

Interpreted Recipe                                                     1-2 eggs per person


For the Egg

1or more eggs
Water 
1 tbsp. white vinegar

For the Sauce

1 tbsp. flour
1 cup milk 
1 tsp. sugar or honey
1/8 tsp. ginger
Pinch of saffron
Salt and pepper to taste

Use your best method to poach the egg.  I use a 2 quart pan and fill the pan to about an inch from the top and bring the water to a boil. Add the vinegar and then heat to simmer.  While I wait for the water to come to a quick simmer/boil I crack the egg into a cup.  When the water comes to a boil I swirl the water around until I can see a whirlpool and then I drop the egg into the center of the whirlpool.  Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let sit for about five minutes.  DO NOT--no matter how tempted you are--peek, poke, prod, or stir the egg again. Trust me on this.

While you are waiting for the egg to complete cooking, make a slurry from the flour and milk (I usually do a 1:2 ratio of starch to liquid to begin with). Because starches, like flour, tend to clump when they come into contact with liquid, make sure that you have mixed the flour and milk until it is smooth. Add remaining ingredients to the pan and then slowly bring to a simmer. As the liquid simmers the sauce will begin to thicken.  When it has thickened to your desire (I thickened mine to a "medium" sauce consistency) remove it from the heat.  

To serve, take the egg from the poaching liquid, place it in a dish and then sauce around the egg. Finish with a pinch of white powder.  

This was good as a sweet dish, I urge you to try it. I want to experiment around with this dish.  I would like to try it with more savory flavorings, for example, mustard, cumin, or even garlic-cream sauce similar to the flavorings found in lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye.   

Similar Recipes

Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)

.lxxxviij. Pochee. Tak ayroun & breke hem in scaldyng hote water, & whanne they ben soden ynowgh, take hem up, & tak yolkes of ayroun & rawe mylke & swyng hem to gyder, & do therto poudour ginger, safroun & salt, set it over the fyre & lat it not boyle, take the ayroun y sode & cast the sewe onoward, & cet.

Kitchen Adventures – lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally - Pork Reinforced Royally (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally - Pork cooked in milk Reinforced Royally

This is the second of the "charlette" dishes found in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin, and the one that was least preferred of the taste testers.  

The almond milk created a finer curd then the regular milk when it was tempered with the wine, resulting in a much finer "grain" to the sliced product. This would have been a very costly dish to make with the addition of ginger, galingale, sugar and the large quantity of saffron used.  It is my belief that this was a dish to show off the wealth of the host, and not necessarily a dish that would have been eaten "every day".

This dish was the least favorite of all of the dishes that I have attempted to reinterpret and that says a lot considering the doozy's I have found; Cxxxj - A potage colde, .Cvj. Rapeye of Fleysshe and lxxj - Murrey to name a few.  This is on my "too period to be enjoyed by modern tastes list" and I do not have plans at this time to attempt to introduce the modern medieval palette to it.

.lvij. Charlet a-forcyd ryally.—Take gode Mylke of Almaunde; take tender Porke, an hew it smal, an bray it on a morter; take eyroun, an draw þorw a cloþe; temper vppe þin flesshe þer-with, an caste on þe potte; take þe mylke, an sette it ouer þe fyre; sesyn it wyth Salt an Safroun caste þer-on; boyle it, an when yt komyth on hy, a-lye it with wyne, an sette it a-doun; take vppe an ley it on a cloþe, an presse it a lytil; ondo it a-ȝen, & caste þer-on pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Sugre y-now; menge it to-gederys, presse it a-aȝen, seþe þe broþe wyl; take styf Almaunde mylke y-temperyd with Freysshe brothe, & caste þer-on Saffroun an Sugre y-now, an a lytil Salt, & boyle it, þan take and set it owt; leche now þin mete, & ley þer-of in a dysshe; take þe sewe, & ley a-boue; take Maces & Sugre, & caste þer-on, & serue forth.

lvij - Charlet a-forcyd ryally. Take gode Mylke of Almaunde; take tender Porke, an hew it smal, an bray it on a morter; take eyroun, an draw thorw a clothe; temper vppe thin flesshe ther-with, an caste on the potte; take the mylke, an sette it ouer the fyre; sesyn it wyth Salt an Safroun caste ther-on; boyle it, an when yt komyth on hy, a-lye it with wyne, an sette it a-doun; take vppe an ley it on a clothe, an presse it a lytil; ondo it a-3en, and caste ther-on pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Sugre y-now; menge it to-gederys, presse it a-a3en, sethe [correction; sic = MS. seye .] the brothe wyl; take styf Almaunde mylke y-temperyd with Freysshe brothe, and caste ther-on Saffroun an Sugre y-now, an a lytil Salt, and boyle it, than take and set it owt; leche now thin mete, and ley ther-of in a dysshe; take the sewe, and ley a-boue; take Maces and Sugre, and caste ther-on, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

57. Charlette Reinforced Royally - Take good milk of almond; take tender pork, and cut it small and grind it in a mortar; take eggs, and draw through a cloth; temper up the flesh there-with, and caste on a pot; take the milk, and set it over the fire; season it with salt and saffron caste there on; boil it and when it cometh on high, mix it with wine, and set it down; take up an lay it on a cloth, and press it a little, and do it again, and caste there-on powder ginger, galingale, sugar enough; mix it together, press it again, cook the broth well: take stiff almond milk mixed with fresh broth, and caste there-on saffron and sugar enough, and a little salt, and boil it, then take and set it out; slice now your meat, and lay there-of in a dish; take the sauce and lay above; take mace and sugar and caste there-on and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                          Makes approximately six 1" slices 

For the Charlette:

1 cup almond milk

1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)

2 eggs

Salt to taste

Pinch of saffron

2 tbsp. wine

1/8 tsp. each ginger and galingale

1/4 tsp. sugar

For the Sauce: 

1/4 cup almond milk

Salt to taste

Pinch of Saffron 

Pinch each of mace and sugar to be dusted over the dish before serving.

Heat the pork, salt and saffron in the almond milk until it is cooked through.  In the meantime, beat the eggs with the wine and add the ginger, galingale and sugar. When the pork is cooked through, turn the heat up on the mixture and when it comes to boil add in the egg and wine mixture.  Stir constantly for approximately five minutes.  You will notice that the curds and whey will begin to separate almost immediately and the egg will begin to curd as well.  After five minutes or so, turn off the heat and allow to cool a little bit.  

Put cheesecloth into a strainer and pour the mixture into it.  Press with a plate and weights as you would for cheese (I used two 28 ounce cans).  Once the whey stops dripping from the "cheese" set it on a tray and let it cool.  Once cool slice into 1" slices and place into a shallow bowl. 

To make the sauce, heat the almond milk, salt and saffron until the desired colored is reach, stirring constantly to prevent scorching of your almond milk.  Pour the heated broth over the cheese and dust with a pinch of mace and sugar before serving. 

This made six 1" slices. I believe that two slices would make an adequate main course as the cheese is very dense in texture; so approximately three servings from 1 cup of milk, or six side servings.  You could even be creative with the cutting of your slices, making them just slightly smaller or cutting into cubes and this could serve a single table at an event. 

Similar Recipes

Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)

.xl. Charlet forsed. Tak mylke & seeth hit & swenge therwith yolkes of ayroun & do therto & poudour of ginger, & sugur & safroun & cast therto, tak the charlet out of the broth & messe hyt in dysches, lay the sewe o noward, floures hit with poudour douce and sugur.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak charlet forced tak cowe mylk and yolks of eggs draw throughe a stren and bet it to gedur then tak freshe pork smalle hewene and cast all to gedure in a pan and colour it with saffrone and let it boile till it be on a crud then take it up and lay it on a clothe upon a bord and presse out the whey then tak the mylk of almondes or cow creme and sett it on the fyere put ther to sugur and colour it depe with saffrone then leshe out the crud and couche it in dishes and pour out the ceripe and cast on sugur and canelle and serve it.

Thomas Awkbarow's Recipes (MS Harley 5401) (England, 15th century)

Charlet Enforesyd. Recipe swete mylk and egges зolkes & ale, & seth pork withoute erbis, brayed, & lat it boyle tyll it do crud; and colour it with saferon, & þan take it vp & press it. Þan take creme of almondes or of kow mylk & boyle itt, & put þerto ginger & colour it depe with saferon, & lay þerof .iij. lechis or .v. in a dysh of þe charlet & poure þe [c]reme apon it; and medyl sugure, sawndyrs, & masz togydere & strew it þeron & serof it forth.

Kitchen Adventures – Pork Custard (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) -.lvj. Charlette)

.lvj. Charlette - Pork Custard

Todays culinary adventure from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin was a pair of related dishes consisting of meat cooked in milk.  The name itself means meat-milk --char - for flesh and lette for milk.  The first dish was a bit more favorably received then the second dish. There are recipes for dishes called "milk meats" similar to  Milke Rostys.

This might make a good breakfast dish, but it is thoroughly unappetizing to look at and I'm afraid the modern diner might have to be "talked into" giving it a try. In fact, we did place this on our list of least favorite dishes that we have tried and on the "too period for modern tastes" list.

That being said, you should try this recipe if for nothing else, the experience of putting this dish together. I'm sure additional seasonings would improve the taste, if not the look. What the dish turns out to be is a kind of "cheese" with bits of egg and meat, held together by the cheese which is created when the acid, ale, in this case comes to a boil. Be sure to chill this before attempting to slice it, otherwise it crumbles. The broth then should be piping hot when you pour it over the slices to reheat them.  

I couldn't imagine trying to create this the day of an event.  I would recommend if you are going to try this dish you create the charlette the day before the event so it has a chance to drain and cool completely. You may want to prepare extra, in case the slices fall apart.  

.lvj. Charlette.—Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; þan hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, noȝt to fatte, alle smal, an kaste þer-to; þan take Eyroun, þe whyte an the ȝolke, & draw þorw a straynoure; an whan þe lycoure ys in boyling, caste þer-to þin Eyroun and Ale, & styre it tylle it Crodde; þan presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste þer-on broþe of Beeff or of Capoun.

lvj - Charlette. Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; than hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, no3t to fatte, alle smal, an kaste ther-to; than take Eyroun, the whyte an the 3olke, and draw thorw a straynoure; an whan the lycoure ys in boyling, caste ther-to thin Eyroun and Ale, and styre it tylle it Crodde; than presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste ther-on brothe of Beeff or of Capoun.

56 - Charlette - Take milk and cast on a pot, with salt and saffron enough; then hew fair butts of calf or pork, not to fat, all small, and caste there-to; then take eggs, the white and the yolks and draw through a strainer: and when the liquor is boiling, caste there-to your eggs and ale, and stir it till it curd; then press it a little with a platter, and serve forth; save, caste there-on broth of beef or of capon.

Interpreted Recipe                                                          Makes approximately six 1" slices 

1 cup milk

1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)

Salt to taste

Pinch of saffron

2 eggs

2 tbsp. ale

1/4 cup chicken stock 

Simmer the meat in the milk with the salt and saffron until it has cooked through.  In the meantime, beat the eggs with the ale.  When the meat has cooked completely bring the milk to a boil and throw in the egg and ale mixture.  Stir constantly to prevent burning and sticking.  After a minute you will see the milk and eggs beginning to form curds.  Continue to stir for about five more minutes and remove from heat.  Let sit for five more minutes. 

Line a sieve with cheesecloth and pour the meat and egg mixture into it.  Fold the cheesecloth over and weight with a plate. I used a couple of 28 ounce cans to continue to press the mixture and strain out the whey, just like you would do if you were making cheese.  Remove from the sieve and place on a tray and into a fridge to allow to cool completely.  

Once the charlette is cooled completely, slice it into slices and set the slices in a bowl. I used "two" slices for a main dish, so this recipe would serve three as a main. They are very substantial.  Cover with chicken or beef stock that has been brought to a rolling boil, and serve. 

Similar Recipes

Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)

.xxxix. Charlet. Tak pork & seeth it wel, hewe hit smal, cast it in a panne, breke ayroun & do therto & swynge hit wel to geder, do therto cow mylk & safroun & boyle it to gyder, salt hit and messe hit forth.

Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334] (England, 1425)

Charlet. Take sweete cowe mylk, and put into a panne, and cast in therto zolkes of eyren and the white also, and fothen porke brayed, and sage; and let hit boyle tyl hit crudde, and colour it with saffron, and dresse hit up, and serve hit forthe.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak charlet tak freche porke and sethe it and swing eggs ther withe then hewe the pork smalle and boile it in swet mylk and serue it.

Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Drawyn Grwel) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .xxiiij. Drawyn grwel - Tempered Gruel
The picture does not do the dish justice. It was much browner in the bowl.

Drawyn Grwel: A Rich and Flavorful Medieval Gruel from Harleian MS. 279

Introduction

After revisiting medieval gruel recipes for an earlier article on gruelle a-forsydde—fortified gruel enriched with pork—I found myself intrigued by a second recipe in the same manuscript. Listed as .xxiiij. Drawyn Grwel in Harleian MS. 279 (ca. 1430), this version takes the idea of gruel even further by incorporating lean beef, fresh herbs, and blood for richness and color. What emerged was not a bland peasant porridge, but a deeply savory, unexpectedly luxurious dish.

This interpretation became an instant favorite among my taste testers. One exclaimed that it “smells like biscuits and gravy in here,” and another insisted I promise to make it again. “Spoon wars” ensued over the last bites. Despite the humble ingredients, this was hearty, flavorful, and worthy of being served at any historical feast or reenactment camp.

In this post, we’ll explore the original Middle English recipe, examine its historical context, and share a practical modern adaptation that keeps its rich medieval soul intact.

What is Drawyn Grwel?

Drawyn Grwel—sometimes translated as “Tempered Gruel” or “Strained Gruel”—refers to a variation of oat soup that was enriched, then drawn through a strainer to create a smooth, refined consistency. This was not everyday peasant fare. The inclusion of lean beef, herbs like parsley and sage, and blood for coloring suggest a dish that had both nutritional and ceremonial importance.

In the culinary vocabulary of the 15th century, “drawyn” meant not only straining but also refining or purifying. Medieval cooks often strained soups and stews to remove tough particles or impurities, resulting in a smoother, more palatable final product. This preparation aligns with the period's emphasis on clarity and refinement in dishes served to noble households or for special occasions.

About Spelling Variations

Spelling in medieval manuscripts was far from standardized, and the word “gruel” is a perfect example. Across different texts, you may encounter it as grewel, gruelle, grwel, or gruell. These variations all refer to similar oat-based dishes and do not reflect distinct recipes. In this article, we preserve the original spelling as found in Harleian MS. 279—“grwel”—to maintain historical accuracy, while acknowledging the broader family of terms that modern readers may search for or recognize.

Historical Recipe from Harleian MS. 279

Original Middle English:

.xxiiij. Drawyn grwel.—Take fayre water an lene Bef, an let hem boyle; an whan þe beef hath y-boylid, take it vp an pyke it, an lete it blede in-to a vessel, an þenne caste þe blode an þe Fleysshe in-to a potte; an þanne caste þer-to Otemele, Percely, & Sawge, an make þer-of an gode grwele; þen draw it þorw a straynowre, an putte it on a fayre potte, an let it boyle; þanne caste þer-to Salt; An ȝif it be nowt brown y-now, take a litil blode an caste þer-to or it be y-draw, an make it broun y-now, an serue it forth.

Modern English Translation:

24. Strained Gruel — Take clean water and lean beef, and let them boil. When the beef has boiled, take it out and pick it, letting it bleed into a vessel. Then place the blood and the flesh into a pot. Add oatmeal, parsley, and sage to make a good gruel. Strain it through a strainer, place it into a clean pot, and let it boil. Then add salt. If it is not brown enough, add a little blood before straining to give it more color, and serve it forth.

Commentary:

This recipe offers a fascinating glimpse into 15th-century culinary practices. The dish starts by boiling lean beef to extract flavor and clarify the meat. The inclusion of blood—both to enrich the flavor and to enhance the color—is typical of the time, particularly in dishes meant to impress or nourish. Oatmeal serves as the base thickener, while parsley and sage provide herbal brightness. The straining step refines the final texture, indicating that this gruel was meant to be smooth, elegant, and suitable for upper-class tables or healing diets.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

• 4 cups water
• 1 pound ground beef or finely chopped lean stewing beef
• 2 cups beef stock
• 8 tablespoons oats (about 1/2 cup; I used a mix of steel-cut and stone-ground Scottish oats)
• 1 tablespoon dried parsley or 3 tablespoons fresh
• 2 teaspoons dried sage or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage
• 2 beef bouillon cubes (optional, for deeper flavor)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Combine all ingredients in a pot and bring to a gentle boil.
2. Simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until oats are fully cooked and meat is tender. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
3. If using a mix of oat types, cook according to the longest recommended time (steel-cut oats take longer).
4. Skim any foam or scum off the surface as needed.
5. Season to taste. Serve warm.

Cook’s Notes:

• Like the previous recipe, I did not strain the mixture. In period, this would have removed bones, hulls, gristle, and the occasional insect—not necessary with modern prep.
• This version is still richer than likely served historically, but you could easily feed 16 people on a pound of meat if stretching the recipe for feast use.
• Don’t use rolled oats here. They’re a post-medieval innovation and create a gluey mess in recipes like this.
• The oats thicken beautifully and impart a toasty, nutty flavor. Combined with the beef and herbs, the final gruel is savory, comforting, and richly satisfying.

This modern version balances historical authenticity with accessibility. The result is a rich, earthy dish that bridges centuries of culinary wisdom. It’s surprisingly filling and deeply savory—perfect for cold weather, medieval feasts, or just a hearty lunch.

Culinary Techniques: Then and Now

One of the key insights from this recipe is the medieval emphasis on purification and refinement. The beef was boiled first—not just to cook it, but to clean it. In an age before refrigeration and industrial sanitation, boiling meat helped remove impurities like dirt, coagulated blood, or bone fragments. This step also created a basic broth that served as the flavorful liquid base of the gruel.

Straining, or “drawing,” was another critical step. It wasn’t simply about texture—it was also about safety and presentation. Straining ensured that bone shards, gristle, or hulls from the oats didn’t make it into the final bowl. The result was a smoother, more visually appealing dish that felt refined, even if made from humble ingredients.

In modern kitchens, we replicate these steps through initial searing or blanching, followed by simmering and fine straining. Tools like mesh strainers, blenders, and cheesecloth make it even easier to achieve the kind of clarity medieval cooks worked hard to produce by hand.

Nutritional and Medicinal Value of Oats in Period

Oats were not only a dietary staple in medieval Europe—they were also considered medicinal. Historical herbalists praised oats for their curative properties, particularly in relation to digestion, inflammation, and skin conditions. Italian herbalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli (1519–1603) described oat broth as a remedy for coughs, gallstones, and skin disorders. He even noted its cosmetic benefits: “Mixed with white lead and used to wash the countenance it makes a clear, attractive complexion.”

German botanist Adam Lonitzer (1528–1586) agreed, calling oats “a useful grain for both cattle and man.” He recommended oat gruel for intestinal regulation, inflammation, and even the treatment of ulcers and fistulas. He emphasized that oats, especially when cooked warm, were a “fortifying source of nutrition.”

These endorsements highlight how a dish like Drawyn Grwel functioned not just as food, but as preventive care—perfect for the sick, the recovering, or those seeking to maintain wellness in difficult conditions.

Taste Test: Modern Reactions to a Historic Dish

It’s one thing to talk about medieval food—and quite another to taste it. When I prepared this modern interpretation of Drawyn Grwel, it completely upended my expectations of what “gruel” should be. The aroma, described by one taste tester as “biscuits and gravy,” filled the kitchen with savory promise.

The dish was unctuous, earthy, and herbal—with the oats lending a mild nuttiness and the beef providing deep umami flavor. The sage and parsley lifted the palate just enough to keep it balanced, and the optional use of blood or drippings made the broth silky and rich.

We didn’t just finish our bowls—we scraped them clean. If gruel has a bad reputation, this version redeems it completely. It’s a dish I’d proudly serve to guests at a historical dinner, SCA event, or a cold winter brunch. And, as promised, I’ll definitely be making it again.

How to Serve Drawyn Grwel Today

While this dish originates from the 15th century, it adapts beautifully to modern serving styles—especially if you're aiming to recreate a medieval ambiance or simply enjoy a nourishing, rustic meal. For reenactment events, SCA feasts, or historical dinners, presentation matters just as much as flavor.

Serving Suggestions:

• Use wooden bowls, stoneware, or clay pots for authenticity
• Serve with rustic bread or black rye for dipping
• Garnish with a small sprig of parsley or a dash of fresh sage
• Pair with pickled vegetables, cheese, or a mug of ale

This is a one-pot dish that carries both simplicity and elegance. It's hearty enough to stand as a main meal, but also versatile enough to serve in small portions as part of a multi-course medieval menu.

Tips for Stretching the Recipe

As with many medieval recipes, Drawyn Grwel was likely intended to serve many with modest ingredients. If you're preparing for a group gathering or reenactment feast, you can easily scale the recipe by adjusting the oats and liquid content, even while keeping the meat portion minimal.

Portion Planning:

• 1 pound of meat can comfortably serve 12–16 people when paired with enough oats and broth
• Using groats or whole grain oats will increase the volume and texture
• Add extra herbs or seasoning if scaling significantly to keep the flavor consistent

Whether you’re feeding a household or a historical camp, Drawyn Grwel proves that affordable ingredients can still offer memorable meals.

Final Thoughts: Gruel Worthy of a Noble Table

The phrase “medieval gruel” doesn’t usually inspire culinary excitement. But Drawyn Grwel changes that narrative. This dish blends history, nutrition, and flavor in a way that feels both comforting and surprisingly refined. With beef, herbs, and oats transformed through time-tested technique, this is more than peasant fare—it’s a bowl of the past made worthy of the present.

So don’t let the name fool you. Drawyn Grwel is delicious, nourishing, and endlessly adaptable. Whether you’re a historian, reenactor, or curious cook, this is one medieval recipe worth returning to again and again.

Oat History Quick Bites:

• Raw oats go rancid quickly unless toasted. Steel-cut or stone-ground oats mimic medieval processing best.

• Rolled oats? Not until the 18th century. Save them for cookies.

• Ground oats + clean broth = a dish with serious historical roots (and surprisingly modern appeal).

This is not the gruel of Dickensian despair. It’s warm, herb-scented, and deserving of your next feast table, campfire pot, or rainy-day supper. Give it a shot — and bring a big spoon.

FAQs

Can I make Drawyn Grwel without using blood?

Yes. Blood was traditionally used for richness and color, but modern alternatives like beef drippings, dark stock, or Worcestershire sauce can substitute effectively while keeping the dish accessible.

What kind of oats are best for historical gruel?

Steel-cut or stone-ground oats (like Scottish oatmeal) are the best approximations of medieval oat preparations. Avoid rolled oats, which are a modern invention and yield an inconsistent texture.

Can Drawyn Grwel be made vegetarian?

Yes, by substituting the beef with mushrooms, lentils, or textured vegetable protein, and using a rich vegetable broth. It won’t be historically accurate, but it retains the texture and herbal elements.

How do I serve gruel at a medieval event?

Use rustic or handmade vessels, add simple garnishes like herbs, and serve alongside bread, pickled vegetables, or cheese. The key is warmth, texture, and an honest presentation.

What’s the difference between Drawyn Grwel and Grewel Eforced?

Drawyn Grwel uses beef, herbs, and blood, with a focus on straining for smoothness. Grewel Eforced typically uses pork, marrow, and saffron, and is often thicker and more textured. Both are fortified gruels, but with distinct flavor profiles and regional nuances.

Related Recipes:

For to make grewel eforced (Rylands MS 7, 1390)
Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)
.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.

For gruel of fors (Liber cure cocorum, 1430)
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)
For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced (A Noble Boke of Cookry, 1468)
A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)
To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.

To make grewell of forse (Gentyll manly Cokere, ca. 1500)
Gentyll manly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047) (England, ca. 1500)
To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

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Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup water
• 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
• 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
• 1/4 pound ground pork
• Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

• Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
• Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

• Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
• Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

• Top with a poached egg for richness.
• Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

• Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
• Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
• Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

• Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
• Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

• For to make grewel eforced (Rylands MS 7, 1390) Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390)

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

• To mak grewelle enforced (A Noble Boke of Cookry, 1468) A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.

• To make grewell of forse Gentyll manly Cokere (MS Pepys 1047) (England, ca. 1500)

To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes

Kitchen Adventures – Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent (Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430) - Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent 

I hope the holiday season has blessed everyone and that the New Year will bring a years' worth of health, wealth and happiness to you, but most importantly, time for you to share with others. Of course I had to try something with wine in it! Today I tried a rather interesting recipe from the "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin", which roughly interprets to a "Broth in Lent". I found it an interesting and delicious recipe and I would almost post this into the category of "found" recipes. Why? Most cooks who have prepared a feast will have some if not all of these ingredients left over, and with a bit of time could create this as an extra dish to serve at a meal. 

I think this would be an exceptionally forgiving recipe, for example, you could substitute broth for wine, and vary the spices. The taste testers and I put our heads together and even came up with some suggestions on how to serve it. My preference would be at the beginning of the meal with cheese pipes and a peppery arugula salad. Another suggestion was a side dish to be served with roasted beef and frumenty. Just a few thoughts to take into the new year with you :-)

Yes, this will definitely appear in a future feast---I better start putting in more bids I'm developing quite a list! Perhaps for next year I will start hosting small parties at my house, not only to share my passion with others, but to enjoy the company of good friends.

I have also hit a milestone with this post. I have interpreted or referenced approximately 57 of the 153 pottage recipes found in the Harleain MS 279. I am reaching the point where some of the ingredients are prohibitively expensive to make, or I can't get the ingredients for, or, are things I am not fond (like oysters!). I will continue to work on completing these recipes as best as I can.

.Cxlvij. Brwes in lentyn. — Take AVater & let boyle, and draw a Iyer ]7er-to of Brede, of j^e cromys, w/tA wyne y-now ; lete alle ben wyne almost ; j^en put Jjer-to hony a gode quantyte, l^at it may ben dowcet, j^an putte ponder Pcpir ]>er-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, & Salt, & skalde ]>m^ brewes tender, & serue f[orth].

Cxlvij - Brwes in lentyn. Take Water and let boyle, and draw a lyer ther-to of Brede, of the cromys, with wyne y-now; lete alle ben wyne almost; then put ther-to honey a gode quantyte, that it may ben dowcet, than putte pouder Pepir ther-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, and Salt, and skalde thin (Note: Thine) brewes tender, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

147. Brewes (broth) in lent - Take water and let boil and draw a mixture of bread, of the crumbs, with wine enough: let all be wine almost; then put there-to honey a good quantity, that it may be sweet, than put powder pepper there-to, cloves, mace, and sandalwood, and salt and scald your broth tender, and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                     Serves 1 as a main, 2 as a side

3/4 cup water
1/4 cup wine -I used a beautifully fruity red
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 tbsp. honey
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp.  mace
2 cloves
1-2 tsp. saunders (opt.)

Soak bread crumbs in wine.  Meanwhile, bring water to boil and stir in honey and spices. Let steep until desired color is reach. Add bread and wine mixture and stir until it has thickened. Strain before serving.

As is, this is a lovely thickened wine sauce or broth.  As I've stated previously, I think it is beautifully versatile for a modern day kitchen.  I added ginger to this in addition to the other spices. This would make a lovely royalty luncheon, or you could throw it together in a pinch as a camp meal as well.  I urge you to experiment with this.