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Showing posts with label Herbs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Herbs. Show all posts

What Was a Stillroom? Its History, Recipes & Modern Revival

What Was a Stillroom? 

The Forgotten Household Workshop and Why Its Arts Are Returning


A few people have asked me what a stillroom is.

One of the sweetest attempts to explain it came from someone describing the idea of Stillroom Co. to another person:

“It’s like the shop in Practical Magic.”

I knew immediately what they meant.

In the film, Sally Owens owns Verbena, a shop filled with herbs, botanical preparations, bottles, scents and beautiful things whose purposes are not always immediately obvious to the modern eye.

Stillroom Co. is not intended to be Verbena, and a historical stillroom was certainly not a magical shop.

But the comparison has stayed with me because I think it reveals something important.

The stillroom was not magical.

It only looks magical to us because so much of the knowledge once practiced there has disappeared from ordinary household life.

Knowing when to gather an herb.

Knowing how to dry it.

Making rosewater.

Preserving fruit.

Pickling vegetables.

Brewing a cordial.

Blending a household scent.

Making a salve.

Polishing wood with beeswax.

Turning the abundance of September into something that could be used in January.

These were not necessarily mysterious arts.

They were useful knowledge.

And for centuries, many of those forms of knowledge met in a place we have almost forgotten.

The stillroom.


What Was a Stillroom?

At its simplest, a stillroom, also written still room or still-room, was a domestic working space associated particularly with substantial British households.

Its name derives from the still, the apparatus used for distillation.

But defining the stillroom simply as “the room where the still was kept” is rather like defining a kitchen as “the room containing the oven.”

Technically true.

Not particularly illuminating.

A stillroom could be connected with the preparation, preservation and storage of food; herbs; flavored and distilled waters; cordials; household medicines; perfumes; cosmetics; pickles; preserves; and other domestic preparations.

Not every household possessed a separate stillroom, and not every stillroom performed every one of these functions. Wealth, period, region, architecture, household size and available labor all mattered.

Some work took place in dedicated still-houses.

Some overlapped with kitchens, dairies, brewhouses, pantries, housekeepers' rooms, closets, gardens and storerooms.

So perhaps the best way to understand the historical stillroom is as both:

a physical workspace

and

a system for organizing useful household knowledge.

The second is more important than the first.


Long Before 1903: The Household Arts Already Belonged Together

One of the easiest mistakes would be to look at Mrs. Charles Roundell and Harry Roberts' 1903 book The Still-Room, see chapters on everything from preserves to perfume and furniture polish, and assume that its breadth was an Edwardian invention.

It wasn't.

We can reach considerably farther back.

In 1615, Gervase Markham published The English Housewife.

Even its title announces an astonishing range of expected household knowledge: physic, cookery, banqueting, distillation, perfumes, dairying, brewing, baking and other matters belonging to household management.

Markham devotes an entire section to “distillations and their virtues, and of perfuming.” He tells his reader that a capable housewife should furnish herself with good stills for distilling waters.

Pause over that list for a moment.

Medicine.

Cookery.

Perfume.

Distillation.

Dairy work.

Brewing.

Baking.

To a modern retailer those are separate departments.

To Markham they were part of the knowledge necessary to manage a household.

That distinction is fundamental to understanding the stillroom.


From the Household Books: 1615

Gervase Markham, The English Housewife

Markham places cookery, household medicine, distillation, perfuming, brewing, dairying and baking within the same system of household competency.

What does this prove?

The association between food, fragrance, medicine and household manufacture long predates the Edwardian stillroom revival.

The categories were already intertwined.


By the Early Nineteenth Century, We Can See the Job Description

Two centuries after Markham, the evidence becomes even more explicit.

Samuel and Sarah Adams published The Complete Servant in 1825.

Their description of the still-room maid is almost a ready-made definition of the room itself.

Her work included:

“distillation of aromatic waters, spirits, and oils”

along with essences and perfumery.

But it didn't end there.

She also helped make pickles, preserves, pastry and confectionery, prepared coffee, cared for china, and assisted in managing the storeroom.

There it is in a contemporary household manual.

Not our modern reconstruction.

Not an aesthetic interpretation.

Not Practical Magic.

A servant whose duties crossed directly from distillation to perfume to jam to pickles to pastry to pantry management.

The stillroom's apparent eclecticism is historical.


Beeton Catches the Stillroom in Decline

By the time Isabella Beeton published The Book of Household Management in 1861, something was changing.

She still describes elaborate work in the stillroom as part of the housekeeper's responsibilities.

But she also says that the stillroom had formerly been much more common.

What had once been produced there?

Beeton specifically mentions flavored waters used in cookery, scents and aromatics used for the toilet, and cordials prepared for illness or accidents.

This is extremely useful evidence because Beeton is not describing some remote medieval practice.

She is writing from inside the transition.

The stillroom still exists.

The still-room maid still exists in some households.

But Beeton already recognizes that an older pattern of domestic manufacture is fading.


The Stillroom Was a Place of Transformation

Look across these household books and one principle appears again and again.

The stillroom was not fundamentally about possessing unusual ingredients.

It was about knowing what to do with them.

A fresh herb became a dried herb.

A flower became aromatic water.

Fruit became preserve.

Vegetables became pickle.

Milk became butter or cheese.

Herbs and spirits became cordials.

Flowers and aromatic plants became perfume.

Wax became polish.

Seasonal abundance became stored provision.

Knowledge transformed materials.

That may be the simplest definition of all:

The stillroom was where perishable things became durable, raw materials became useful preparations, and household knowledge became practice.


Herbs: Knowing When Matters as Much as Knowing What

Consider something apparently simple: drying herbs.

In The Still-Room of 1903, Roundell and Roberts instruct the reader to gather herbs generally just before they flower, remove the roots, bundle them and dry them quickly.

The dried herbs might then be stored in paper bags or powdered and bottled.

Lavender required different handling: it was to be gathered when fully open and dried in shade.

Nothing magical is happening.

But there is knowledge embedded in every step.

Which part of the plant?

At what stage of growth?

Sun or shade?

Whole or powdered?

Bag or bottle?

The useful object is not merely the herb.

The useful object is the herb plus the accumulated knowledge of how to handle it.

That distinction matters enormously.

It is one of the things modern consumer culture can obscure.

We often receive the finished object without inheriting the knowledge that produced it.


From the Stillroom Books: Drying Herbs

Roundell and Roberts advise gathering most herbs just before flowering, quickly drying the bundles, and then storing them dry or powdered and bottled. Lavender was dried separately in shade.

What does this prove?

Stillroom knowledge included timing, processing and storage, not simply recipes.

It was partly a system for managing the calendar of the household.


Pickles: Capturing the Garden in Vinegar

The same principle appears in pickling.

Roundell and Roberts describe pickling as preserving vegetable products in spiced vinegar.

Their basic spiced vinegar could include peppercorns, ginger and mustard seed, with mace, cloves, allspice and cayenne as possible additions.

They give specific instructions for red cabbage and other vegetables.

Their instructions pay attention not only to flavor, but vessels, cleanliness, sealing and storage.

Again, this is not merely cooking dinner.

It is controlling what happens to food after harvest.

That difference is central to the stillroom.

A kitchen answers:

What shall we eat today?

The preserving household must also answer:

What shall we do with what we have today so that we may use it later?


Fruit, Bottling and the Problem of Time

Fruit presents the same challenge.

A tree does not politely distribute twelve apples every month of the year.

It gives you apples when apples are ripe.

The historical household therefore had to think not only about food but time.

Roundell and Roberts devote considerable attention to storing fruit, preserving it and bottling it.

Their 1903 book explains the then-modern practice of bottling fruit in sealed glass containers, explicitly discussing the destruction and exclusion of microorganisms responsible for spoilage.

That section reminds us of something important.

The stillroom tradition was never frozen in the seventeenth century.

Household knowledge evolved.

New science changed old techniques.

New equipment appeared.

Better methods replaced worse ones.

That provides an excellent model for anyone interested in historical household practice today.

Tradition and evidence do not have to be enemies.

We can preserve the idea while updating the method.

Indeed, when dealing with food preservation, we absolutely should.


Rosewater: One Ingredient, Several Worlds

Rosewater may be one of the clearest ways to understand why modern categories fail us.

Today we might encounter rosewater in:

a baking aisle,

a Middle Eastern grocery,

a cosmetic preparation,

a perfume,

or a historical recipe.

To an earlier household, those uses did not necessarily belong to unrelated universes.

Distilled floral waters might be used in cookery.

They might scent the body.

They might appear in household preparations.

They might be ingredients in medical receipts.

Beeton explicitly remembered the still supplying both sweet waters for cooking and aromatics for the toilet.

The Adamses likewise put aromatic waters and perfumery within still-room work while assigning the same servant preserves and pastry.

The same shelf of ingredients could therefore serve several purposes.

Modern retail separates by industry.
The historical household often organized by material and use.

That is why a stillroom can look so strange to us.

We have inherited the products.

We have lost some of the connections between them.


Perfume Belonged Here Too

Roundell and Roberts' perfume chapter makes the connection wonderfully concrete.

Their pot-pourri uses an extraordinary collection of garden and pantry aromatics: bay, myrtle, carnations, orange blossom, violets, lavender, verbena, thyme, balm, marjoram, rosemary, orris root, cloves and citrus peel.

The same chapter goes on to give formulas for Eau de Cologne and lavender water.

Notice what is happening.

Thyme and rosemary have not stopped being culinary herbs.

Cloves have not ceased to be spices.

Orange peel is still food.

Lavender is still a garden plant.

But these materials are being redirected toward fragrance.

The stillroom sits at precisely that intersection.


From the Stillroom Books: Pot-Pourri

The 1903 Still-Room combines lavender, verbena, thyme, balm, marjoram, rosemary, flowers, spices and citrus peel in its pot-pourri.

What does this prove?

The boundary between the pantry, herb garden and perfume cabinet was porous.

A material could have several household lives.


And Then We Arrive at Beeswax

This may be my favorite example because it makes the entire argument almost embarrassingly easy.

Near the back of The Still-Room, after pages of food, herbs, drinks and perfumes, Roundell and Roberts give instructions for caring for furniture.

One polish combines linseed oil, vinegar and turpentine.

For oak, they write:

“The best polish for oak is made by melting a pound of beeswax”

with turpentine.

There it is.

Beeswax furniture polish.

In the same book as:

pickles,

preserves,

dried herbs,

bottled fruit,

cordials,

perfumes,

lavender water,

and household drinks.

A modern shopper may reasonably ask:

What does furniture conditioner have to do with marmalade?

Roundell and Roberts apparently felt no need to ask.

Both were household work.

That is the stillroom idea in miniature.


The Household Receipt Book Was a Stillroom Made of Paper

The physical room is only half of the story.

The other half survived in books.

Household manuscript recipe books frequently mingle what we would now call culinary recipes with medical preparations and other practical instructions.

These books were copied, corrected, inherited and expanded.

Recipes moved between relatives, neighbors and acquaintances.

Printed recipes entered manuscript collections.

Professional knowledge entered domestic collections.

Successful preparations could be preserved for the next generation.

A household recipe book was therefore much more than a cookbook.

It could function as:

a pantry manual,

a medical reference,

a laboratory notebook,

a record of preservation,

a family archive,

and a memory system.

The Folger Shakespeare Library's extensive early-modern recipe collections preserve precisely this mingling of culinary and medicinal knowledge.

Historian Elaine Leong's work on early-modern recipe culture has also emphasized how household knowledge could be accumulated socially rather than simply authored by one isolated individual.

Knowledge traveled.

It was tested.

It was adapted.

It was remembered.

In that sense, the household recipe book was something rather wonderful:

a stillroom made of paper.


Who Actually Did This Work?

Here we need to be careful not to polish history until it gleams falsely.

The stillroom is strongly associated with women because women frequently bore responsibility for food preservation, nursing, household medicines, textile work, fragrance and domestic management.

In elite households, the mistress of the household or housekeeper might supervise this work.

Servants performed much of the labor.

The existence of the specialized still-room maid makes that division particularly visible by the nineteenth century.

But households were networks.

Men might contribute recipes.

Professional practitioners supplied knowledge.

Neighbors exchanged preparations.

Servants carried skills between employers.

Family members inherited books.

Nor should we pretend that every woman in the past spent peaceful afternoons distilling lavender in a sunlit room.

Much of this work was labor.

Sometimes relentless labor.

Dedicated stillrooms themselves imply space and resources that many poorer households did not possess.

The history becomes more interesting, not less, when we allow it to be complicated.


Was the Stillroom an Apothecary?

No.

There was overlap, but they were not the same institution.

Domestic medical preparations appear throughout household literature, and distillation equipment, syrups, waters, salves and other preparations could resemble things made by professional medical practitioners.

But a household stillroom served the household.

An apothecary participated in a commercial and increasingly regulated profession.

And this distinction matters especially today.

Historical household medicine is fascinating evidence about how people understood health, plants, bodies and domestic responsibility.

It is not automatically modern medical advice.

Some historical remedies were useful.

Some were harmless.

Some were ineffective.

Some were dangerous.

Historical interest should never require abandoning modern evidence.


So What Happened to the Stillroom?

It did not vanish on a particular date.

Its functions were scattered.

Commercial preserving expanded.

Pharmacies expanded.

Perfume became an industry.

Soap became an industry.

Brewing became increasingly commercial.

Packaged food became easier to purchase.

Transportation improved.

Refrigeration changed food storage.

Domestic architecture changed.

Domestic service changed.

Eventually, a household no longer needed one place in which these kinds of work met.

You could simply buy the results.

By 1861, Beeton was already describing the older stillroom as less common.

By 1903, Roundell and Roberts were openly lamenting the change.

They called their own period an:

“age which may well be called the age of the purveyor”

and worried that people were becoming increasingly accustomed to having others make things for them.

Their book is not ideologically neutral.

Its arguments about women's roles belong firmly to its own period and should be read critically.

But their observation about household production is historically interesting.

As more goods became commercially available, less knowledge was required to produce those goods at home.

And when a society stops making something routinely, something curious can happen.

The object remains familiar.

The process becomes mysterious.


The Ordinary Begins to Look Like Magic

And now we are back at Practical Magic.

Why does a room filled with herbs, bottles, rosewater, beeswax, preserves, spices, salves and fragrant preparations feel faintly enchanted?

Because we no longer expect those things to belong together.

A rose is decoration.

Unless you know how to distill it.

Blackberries are fruit.

Unless you know how to preserve them.

Beeswax is an ingredient printed on a label.

Unless you know how to use it.

Lavender is fragrance.

Unless you know when to harvest it, how to dry it, how to store it, and the enormous range of ways previous households employed it.

A mortar and pestle is kitchen décor.

Until somebody picks it up.

Knowledge changes an object.

Lost knowledge changes it again.

The practical becomes picturesque.

The ordinary becomes exotic.

And something our great-grandparents might have recognized as household work begins to look suspiciously like magic.


But the Story Does Not End in 1903

If we stop there, we tell only half the story.

Because some of these skills are returning.

Not all at once.

Not in one movement.

And certainly not because everyone suddenly decided to reconstruct a Victorian stillroom.

The revival has come in waves.


The 1970s: An Earlier Return to Household Skills

Home production did not simply decline in a straight line throughout the twentieth century.

The United States Department of Agriculture's National Agricultural Library documents a resurgence in home canning during the early 1970s, specifically connecting it with the growing back-to-nature and do-it-yourself movements.

This followed a substantial postwar decline.

After World War II, commercially canned food became readily available and household refrigerators increasingly offered an easier method of food storage.

USDA material records home canning dropping from 44 percent to 34 percent between 1954 and 1964.

Then people began coming back.

Gardening.

Canning.

Homesteading.

Craft.

Self-sufficiency.

Not universally.

Not permanently.

But enough to demonstrate that household skills could become culturally desirable again after periods of decline.


Then Came 2020

COVID-19 did not invent the revival of domestic skills.

It did something else.

It accelerated it.

Suddenly the invisible systems that supplied ordinary life became visible.

Grocery shelves emptied.

Supply chains faltered.

Yeast disappeared.

Seeds sold out.

Canning lids became difficult to find.

People spent extraordinary amounts of time at home.

And skills that had sometimes been treated as quaint hobbies abruptly acquired another dimension.

They were useful.

A Canadian study of home food gardening found that among respondents who gardened, 17.4 percent had begun growing food in 2020, while roughly two-thirds of those new gardeners said the pandemic influenced their decision.

Researchers studying gardeners internationally also found that gardens provided food, outdoor activity, creativity, connection and a sense of refuge during the early pandemic.

Home food preservation surged as well.

The Extension Foundation reports that requests for validated preservation recipes through the National Center for Home Food Preservation rose 620 percent in 2020 compared with 2019.

People canned.

They pickled.

They froze.

They dried.

They fermented.

They baked bread.

They planted gardens.

And often they went online looking for something earlier generations might have sought from a mother, grandmother, neighbor, housekeeper or household receipt book:

instructions.


The Interesting Part Is What Happened Afterward

A temporary pandemic hobby would be historically interesting.

But the persistence is more interesting.

University of Minnesota Extension now describes interest in food preservation as having surged during COVID-era supply disruptions and notes that preserving food at home remains popular today, tied to home gardening, local food, waste reduction and household budgets.

A 2024 Extension conference presentation reported that demand for home-preservation training and resources had increased markedly since 2020 and continued post-COVID.

Penn State Extension likewise describes increased contemporary interest while emphasizing the importance of replacing outdated and unsafe preservation practices with modern research-based methods.

Gardening shows signs of persistence too.

Follow-up Canadian research in 2022 suggested that although some pandemic gardeners had stopped, those continuing appeared at least as committed, and in some respects more committed, than during the initial 2020 surge.

That is a much more interesting cultural development than a lockdown fad.

The emergency faded.

Some of the skills stayed.


We Are Not Rebuilding the Room

This is where the historical stillroom becomes unexpectedly useful as a way of understanding modern life.

Most people reviving these skills would never call what they are doing “stillroom work.”

The pieces are scattered.

Sourdough starter bubbles on a kitchen counter.

Tomatoes grow in a raised bed.

Herbs hang to dry.

Canning jars fill a pantry.

Someone learns to ferment cabbage.

Someone else learns to mend clothing.

Another person replaces disposable kitchen wrap with waxed cloth.

Someone begins buying loose tea.

A bottle of rosewater appears in the pantry.

A wooden cutting board is maintained instead of discarded.

Preserves are made from summer fruit.

None of these activities alone constitutes a stillroom.

But taken together they suggest the return of an older proposition:

A household can contain knowledge as well as products.

That may be the true resurrection.

Not the room.

The relationship.


We Know Better Now, and That Matters

Recovering historical household skills does not mean reproducing every historical method.

This is particularly important with food preservation, medicine and cosmetics.

A nineteenth-century canning instruction is historical evidence.

It is not automatically a safe modern canning instruction.

An old medical receipt tells us what people believed and did.

It is not a substitute for contemporary medical care.

Historical recipes can help us understand earlier lives without becoming commandments.

Modern food science has taught us things our predecessors did not know.

Modern medicine has taught us things they did not know.

Modern regulation exists for reasons.

A thoughtful revival takes the best possible position:

Recover the knowledge.
Understand the history.
Keep the useful principle.
Use modern evidence where modern evidence is better.

That is not betraying tradition.

It is exactly what households themselves have always done.

The 1903 stillroom already contained equipment and preservation science that Markham could not have imagined in 1615.

Household knowledge was never truly static.


From the Age of the Purveyor to the Age of Rediscovery

There is a lovely symmetry here.

In 1903, Roundell and Roberts worried that they lived in an age of the purveyor.

People increasingly bought what other people made.

More than a century later, we still live in that world.

Most of us are not going to distill our own perfume, grow every herb, bake every loaf, preserve every vegetable, make every cleaner, sew every garment and brew every beverage.

Nor should we have to.

But alongside the enormous convenience of modern consumer life, another impulse has appeared:

I would like to know how this works.

Where did this come from?

What is in it?

Could I make it?

Could I repair it?

Could I grow it?

Could I preserve it?

Is there a longer-lived version?

What did people do before this became disposable?

That curiosity is the thread connecting much of today's interest in gardening, preserving, fermentation, sourdough, herbalism, repair, natural materials and traditional household crafts.

It isn't necessarily a rejection of modernity.

It is often a demand for greater literacy within modernity.

Someone can bake sourdough and own a microwave.

Grow tomatoes and order takeout.

Use beeswax on a wooden table and buy commercial laundry detergent.

Preserve strawberries and keep insulin in a modern refrigerator.

There is no contradiction.

The choice is not:

past or present.

The more interesting choice is:

Which pieces of each are worth carrying forward?


What Would a Modern Stillroom Be?

Probably not a literal room containing a copper alembic.

For most of us, it may simply be an attitude toward household life.

Know what your materials do.

Know where things come from.

Learn a few useful skills.

Preserve what is worth preserving.

Repair what is worth repairing.

Choose durable things when practical.

Keep recipes.

Record experiments.

Share knowledge.

Learn the difference between historical curiosity and safe modern practice.

Use the pantry.

Use the garden.

Use the things you own.

And perhaps become a little less willing to believe that every ordinary household problem requires a newly manufactured disposable solution.

That is not nostalgia.

It is literacy.


Useful Knowledge. Beautiful Things. Living History.

Why I Chose the Name Stillroom

And this is why the word Stillroom would not leave me alone.

After years of reconstructing historical food, reading household manuscripts, working with old recipes, and thinking about how practical knowledge survives or disappears, I realized that the stillroom supplied an organizing idea I could not find anywhere else.

Then my own life reached something of a crossroads.

My current job ends in December. In my late fifties, and still several years from retirement, I could put myself back onto the job market and begin again somewhere else.

Or I could build something.

I chose to build.

I am opening Stillroom Co. , a modern interpretation of the historical stillroom: first online, and, if all goes according to plan, as a brick-and-mortar shop early next year.

And after everything you have just read, the assortment may make considerably more sense.

Stillroom Co. is not intended to reproduce one historical room exactly.

It is not an apothecary pretending to be medical practice.

It is not only a tea shop.

It is not only a spice shop.

It is not only a kitchen store.

It is not only a natural-products store.

It is not only a historical gift shop.

The historical stillroom suggests something broader:

Pantry.
Hearth.
Household.
Body.
Knowledge.

A soup beside a loaf of bread.

Tea beside honey.

Rosewater beside a historical recipe.

Preserves beside the history of preserving.

Beeswax beside the wood it can protect.

Herbs beside the knowledge of what people once did with them.

Soap.

Spices.

Household tools.

Useful recipes.

Long-lived things.

Objects whose histories matter.

That assortment seems eclectic only when viewed through the departments of a modern big-box store.

Begin instead with the needs of a household, and suddenly it makes sense.

And if any of this sounds interesting to you, I would love to invite you along while I build it.

Stillroom Co. is very much at the beginning. There is a small digital catalog online now, but the first physical merchandise has been ordered and should begin arriving over the next few weeks. I am starting deliberately, with a wide but shallow assortment, so that I can learn what people actually use, enjoy, and want to see more of.

Some of the first shelves will include goods from makers and suppliers such as the United Society of Shakers, The Whistling Kettle, Cooke Tavern Soups, Dr. Pete's Foods, Frontier Co-op, and other small producers whose work fits somewhere within that old constellation of pantry, hearth, household and body.

There will be teas and herbs. Soups and bread mixes. Preserves and spices. Rosewater. Beeswax. Tallow goods. Soap. Household cleaners and useful things meant to last. There will also be historical recipes and practical knowledge, because I don't want Stillroom to be only a place that sells the finished object. I want it to help restore some understanding of the knowledge behind it.

So, if you'd like to see what happens when someone in her late fifties decides that losing her job might be an opportunity to build the strange little shop she wishes still existed, come with me.

Follow Stillroom Co. on Facebook, visit the growing online shop, tell me what you think should be on the shelves, and watch as the first boxes arrive.

I have no idea exactly where this experiment will ultimately take me.

But I think it is going to be interesting.


Perhaps We Never Really Lost the Stillroom

Maybe we only dismantled it.

We sent the medicine to the pharmacy.

The perfume to the cosmetics counter.

The preserves to the grocery store.

The soap to another aisle.

The beer to the brewery.

The herbs to little glass bottles.

The furniture polish to the hardware store.

The knowledge went everywhere.

And because it went everywhere, we stopped recognizing that it had once belonged together.

Now some of those pieces are finding one another again.

A sourdough starter here.

A garden there.

A row of preserving jars.

A bundle of drying herbs.

A jar of jam.

A repaired chair.

A bottle of rosewater.

A piece of beeswax.

A recipe copied and saved.

Perhaps the stillroom is returning without anyone rebuilding the stillroom.

Perhaps what is returning is something more important:

the belief that ordinary life is worth knowing how to do.

The stillroom was never really about the still.

It was about knowing what to do with what you had.

And that may be exactly why, four centuries after Markham told his readers to furnish themselves with good stills, the idea feels unexpectedly alive again.


Historical Confidence

Confidence Level: High

The broad relationship among household cookery, preservation, distillation, fragrance, medicine and practical domestic production is supported across several centuries of primary household literature.

Gervase Markham's The English Housewife demonstrates that physic, cookery, distillation, perfume, dairying, brewing and baking were being presented within a single household knowledge system by 1615.

Samuel and Sarah Adams' 1825 description of the still-room maid explicitly combines aromatic distillation and perfumery with pickles, preserves, pastry, confectionery and storeroom work.

Isabella Beeton's 1861 discussion shows that the stillroom was already declining while preserving the memory of its culinary waters, fragrances and cordials.

Roundell and Roberts' 1903 The Still-Room documents the persistence and attempted revival of a broad household tradition encompassing preservation, herbs, beverages, perfume and household preparations.

The interpretation should not be universalized to every British household or every period. Dedicated stillrooms were more characteristic of households with sufficient space, labor and resources, while comparable work might occur elsewhere.

The argument that COVID-19 accelerated a modern revival is also well supported for gardening and food preservation, but COVID did not originate those movements. USDA evidence documents an earlier home-canning resurgence associated with DIY and back-to-nature culture in the 1970s. Pandemic-era research subsequently documents sharp increases in gardening and preservation interest in 2020, with evidence that some of that interest persisted afterward.


Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly was a stillroom?

A stillroom was a domestic workspace associated especially with larger British households. Distillation gave the room its name, but activities associated with stillroom work could include preserving, pickling, drying herbs, making aromatic waters, cordials, perfumes, household medicines and other domestic preparations.

Why was it called a stillroom?

Because the room could contain a still, equipment used to heat materials and condense their vapors into distilled liquids such as aromatic waters or spirits.

Did every house have one?

No. Dedicated stillrooms required space, equipment and labor. Many households performed comparable tasks elsewhere, including kitchens, still-houses, dairies, brewhouses, gardens, pantries and storerooms.

Was a stillroom just an apothecary?

No. Household medicine overlapped with some apothecary practices, but a stillroom served domestic needs rather than functioning as a professional medical business.

Did stillrooms really make perfume?

Yes. Perfume and aromatic preparations appear in household literature alongside distillation. Markham included perfuming in 1615, Beeton remembered aromatic toilet preparations in 1861, and Roundell and Roberts provided recipes for pot-pourri, Eau de Cologne and lavender water in 1903.

Were jams and pickles really part of stillroom work?

Yes. The 1825 Complete Servant explicitly lists pickles and preserves among still-room maid duties, and The Still-Room of 1903 devotes substantial sections to preservation and pickling.

What does beeswax furniture polish have to do with a stillroom?

Household preparations were part of the stillroom tradition. Roundell and Roberts include furniture polishes in The Still-Room, including an oak polish based on beeswax and turpentine.

Did COVID bring these skills back?

COVID did not begin the revival. Home canning, gardening, DIY and back-to-the-land movements had earlier resurgences, including a documented 1970s home-preservation revival. However, the pandemic sharply increased interest in gardening, food preservation and other household skills, and Extension sources indicate that some of that demand persisted after the acute pandemic period.

Is historical food preservation safe to reproduce?

Not automatically. Historical methods are valuable evidence but should not replace current research-based preservation guidance. Modern USDA and Extension recommendations should be used when food safety is involved.

Is Stillroom Co. intended to recreate a historical stillroom?

No. The historical stillroom provides an organizing principle rather than a blueprint. The modern idea brings together useful things and useful knowledge for the pantry, hearth, household and body while applying contemporary safety and evidence.


Primary Sources

Adams, Samuel and Sarah. The Complete Servant. 1825. The description of the still-room maid provides unusually direct evidence for the combination of distillation, perfume, preservation, pastry and storeroom work.

Beeton, Isabella. The Book of Household Management. 1861. See the discussion of the housekeeper and still-room maid.

Markham, Gervase. The English Housewife. 1615. Wellcome Collection preserves a digitized public-domain copy.

Roundell, Mrs. Charles, and Harry Roberts. The Still-Room. London and New York: John Lane, The Bodley Head, 1903.


Modern Research and Further Reading

USDA National Agricultural Library. How Did We Can? The collection documents the postwar decline and 1970s resurgence of home food preservation.

Music, Janet L., et al. “Home Food Gardening in Canada in Response to the COVID-19 Pandemic.” Sustainability 13 (2021). The survey documented substantial pandemic-era entry into home food gardening.

University of Minnesota Extension. Contemporary history and education concerning food preservation, including the pandemic-era surge and continued interest.

Extension Foundation / National Center for Home Food Preservation. Documentation of the dramatic 2020 increase in requests for validated preservation information.

National Health Outreach and Engagement Conference, 2024. “The Need for Science-based Home Canning Education Post-COVID,” documenting continued elevated demand for home preservation education.


A Note on Historical Recipes

Recipes and household instructions quoted or discussed in this article are presented as historical evidence.

Historic medical, cosmetic and food-preservation practices may not meet contemporary standards of safety. Where a historical method involves food preservation, health care or potentially hazardous materials, consult current research-based guidance before attempting it.

Understanding what people did is not the same thing as recommending that we do it now.


AI Transparency

AI tools assisted with locating and comparing digitized primary sources, cross-checking chronology, organizing citations, identifying overbroad claims, and structuring the article for clarity and search discoverability.

Historical interpretation, source selection, conclusions and final editorial responsibility remain with the author.

Herbelade (Herb Pottage) — Harleian MS 4016 & Forme of Curye

Herbelade (Herb Pottage) — Harleian MS 4016 (c. 1450) & Forme of Curye (1390)

Medieval banquet scene from the Chroniques de Hainaut: diners at a long table as servers bring in elaborate dishes.
Detail from the Banquet du Paon (Chroniques de Hainaut, c. 1447–48) — the kind of noble feast where Herbelade might open the first course.

John Russell’s Boke of Nurture lists a “pottage of herbs, spice, and wine” in the first course of his Dynere of Flesche. See the full reconstructed menu here: A Dynere of Flesche — John Russell’s 15th-Century Menu. Among surviving 15th-century recipes, the Herbelade from Harleian MS 4016 (c. 1450) matches that description exactly — a delicate, green, wine-scented broth thickened with bread and perfumed with gentle spice.

What “pottage” means here: a smooth herb-based soup or light stew served early in the meal — modestly thickened with bread or almond milk, spiced with ginger and saffron, and occasionally enriched with wine.

Original Text — Harleian MS 4016 (EETS 1888 p. 89)

Herbelade. Take persel, sawge, ysope, saveray, and tansey, and other gode herbys that ye may gete, and do hem in a potte; sethe hem; take brede y-grated, and temper it with broth, and do thereto, and sethe it, and serue it forth.

Modern English Rendering

Take parsley, sage, hyssop, savory, tansy, and any other good herbs you can find, and put them in a pot; boil them. Mix grated bread with broth (or wine), add it to the herbs, and simmer; then serve it forth.

Modern Recipe (Tested Redaction)

Yield: 6–8 servings • Time: ~20 min

  • 3 cups mixed herbs – parsley, sage, savory, hyssop (or thyme), tansy (optional)
  • 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth – replace up to 1 cup with white wine
  • ½ cup breadcrumbs (or 2 Tbsp ground almonds for richer version)
  • Pinch ginger, few threads saffron, and a little sugar (optional)
  • Salt to taste
  1. Blanch herbs 30 sec, chop fine.
  2. Heat broth + wine; add herbs.
  3. Stir in breadcrumbs (or almond flour) to thicken.
  4. Season with ginger, saffron, pinch sugar, and salt.
  5. Simmer 5–10 min until lightly thickened. Serve hot.

Flavor profile: fresh herbal green, gently spiced, and light on the palate — ideal first-course fare.

About Tansy: Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) was a common medieval herb with a strong, aromatic, slightly bitter flavor. Though best known for Lenten or Easter “tansy” dishes, it also appeared in savory contexts like Herbelade, valued for its warming, cleansing properties. Medieval herbalists classed it as “hot and dry,” balancing the “cold and moist” nature of green herbs, and believed it aided digestion after rich meats.
  • Flavor: Bitter–spiced, similar to a cross of rosemary and sage; use sparingly in modern redactions.
  • Availability: A hardy perennial, typically dried for winter use.
  • Modern caution: Tansy contains thujone, a volatile compound that is both neurotoxic and abortifacient in high doses. Historically, tansy was used medicinally to induce menstruation or miscarriage — so it’s absolutely contraindicated during pregnancy. and should be omitted entirely, or used in the smallest of quantities; mild substitutes include thyme or a pinch of rosemary.

Canabeys with Lekys — A Medieval Bean and Leek Pottage (Harleian MS. 279, c.1430)

Canabeys with Lekys — medieval bean and leek pottage in a bowl
Canabeys with Lekys — Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430)

Originally published 3/30/2015, Updated 9/17/2025

What is “Canabeys (Canabens) with Lekys”?

Canabeys/Canabens in Harleian MS. 279 refers to cooked beans, most often the broad/fava beans familiar to medieval cooks, prepared plainly in broth or enriched with dairy and sometimes served with bacon. Combined with lekys (leeks), you get a humble, comforting pottage that fits beautifully on a fifteenth-century table—and on ours.

🥕 Dietary badge: Vegetarian as written; easily vegan. Gluten-free.

Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth

Fava fresche con brodo di carne – Fresh Fava Beans with Meat Broth (Redon, 1998)

Renaissance banquet scene in Veronese’s House of Levi; a lavish table evocative of simple dishes like fava in broth.
“The Feast in the House of Levi” (detail), Paolo Veronese — used here as period context for a Renaissance table.

Context & Notes

Fava fresche con brodo di carne is a rustic Renaissance preparation: fresh spring fava beans briefly simmered in meat broth, enriched with a little cured pork, and finished with parsley and mint. The technique keeps the beans tender while letting a few split to lightly thicken the broth.

Seasonality & status: Fava beans were among the first fresh foods after Lent and signaled the turn from winter storage fare to spring produce. Courtly kitchens “elevated” this staple through refined broth, measured cooking, and aromatic herbs—much as spices elevate simple noodles in De lasanis.

Broth choice: Chicken broth reads lighter and more restorative for warmer weather; beef broth is heartier and “strengthening.” Either appears in period practice depending on the season and desired effect.

Humoral Notes (with pork nuance)

Fava beans: generally cold & moist.
Pork: fresh pork was classed as cold & moist and heavy; salted/cured pork (pancetta, salt belly) was thought to gain warming/drying qualities from salt and smoke—still rich, but more balancing when used sparingly.
Herbs: parsley and mint are warming/aromatic correctives.
Broth: chicken leans lighter; beef leans more warming/fortifying.

Thus this dish pairs a cold/moist base (beans) with modest warming elements (cured pork, hot broth, herbs) to arrive at a comfortable middle course—similar to how spices balanced the cheese-and-pasta profile in De lasanis.

Side-by-Side: Original (Redon, 1998) & Modern Notes

Original (Redon, 1998)

Ingredients: 2 cups beef or chicken broth (or mix), 4½ lb fresh fava beans, 4 oz salt pork belly or pancetta, 1 Tbsp chopped parsley & mint; salt.

Method: Shell beans; blanch briefly (5 seconds), refresh, peel. Dice pork. Simmer broth, beans, and pork ~10 minutes until beans begin to break. Add herbs; return to a brief boil. Salt to taste and serve.

Modern Adaptation – What’s Different?

  • Yield clarity: 4½ lb in-pod ≈ ~1 lb shelled beans.
  • Texture cue: “Begin to break” = lightly thickened broth, not mashed.
  • Herb timing: Herbs added at the end to keep flavors vivid.
  • Pork form matters: Pancetta/salt pork (cured) used in small amount for savor and humoral balance.
  • Broth intent: Chicken for lighter tables; beef for heartier service.

Scappi’s Minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche (1570, Libro III, #249)

Per far minestra di Piselli & Fave fresche:

Piglinosi i piselli o baccelli, sgraninosi, & ponganosi in un uaso con oglio d’oliue, sale, & pepe, & faccianosi soffriggere pian piano, aggiungendovi tanta acqua tinta di zafferano, che stiano coperti di due dita, & come saranno poco men che cotti, pestisene una parte nel mortaro, e stemperisi con il medesimo brodo, & mettasi nel uaso con una branchata d’herbuccie battute, e faccianosi levare il bollo, e servanosi caldi.

 Translation (modern English):

“Take peas or broad beans, shell them, and put them in a pot with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Let them sauté gently, adding in enough water, colored with saffron, to cover them by about two fingers. When they are a little less than cooked, pound part of them in a mortar and dilute that with the same broth; return it to the pot with a handful of chopped herbs, bring it all to a boil, and serve it hot.”

🍲 Modern Recipe

Serves: 4 • Active: 20 min • Total: ~30 min

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (480 ml) beef or chicken broth (or 50/50 mix)
  • 4½ lb (about 2 kg) fresh fava beans in pod (≈ 1 lb / 450 g shelled)
  • 4 oz (115 g) salt pork belly or pancetta, finely diced
  • 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
  • 1 Tbsp fresh mint, chopped
  • Kosher salt, to taste

Method

  1. Prep beans: Shell. Blanch 5 seconds in boiling water, refresh in cold water, slip off the outer skins.
  2. Simmer: In a saucepan, combine broth, diced pork, and beans. Bring to a boil, reduce to a lively simmer, and cook about 10 minutes, until beans just begin to soften and a few split to lightly thicken the broth.
  3. Finish: Stir in parsley and mint; return to a brief boil (30–60 seconds). Season with salt and serve hot.

🍽 Menu Placement (Feast Planning)

  • Dish Type: Pottage (a “wet” course served in or with broth)
  • Course: Second course (Pottage course). Because beans digest heavy in some frameworks, serve moderate portions or as a remove between roasts.
  • Service tips: Offer trenchers or bread to soak up the savory broth.

🥕 Dietary Suggestions

  • Gluten-free.
  • Pork-free: Swap in smoked turkey or omit meat and add 1–2 Tbsp olive oil for body.
  • Vegetarian: Use vegetable broth; finish with a knob of butter or extra-virgin olive oil.

📚 Sources

  • Redon, 1998 (adaptation as provided).
  • Period dietetic summaries consulted for general fresh vs. cured meat distinctions and bean qualities.

🏷 Labels

  • Browse by Dish Type: Pottage
  • Browse by Ingredient: Legumes, Pork, Herbs
  • Browse by Use: Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Humoral Theory
  • Browse by Era: Renaissance, Italian
📖 This recipe is part of the Ceilidh 2001 – Fourteenth-Century Italian Feast .
Explore all dishes from this reconstructed 14th-century Italian banquet.

Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers

Kitchen scene from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1574 engraving)
Kitchen scene from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1574). Library of Congress.

Polpettoni alla Romana – Renaissance Beef Skewers (Scappi, 1570)

Updated with historical context, vegetarian/vegan alternatives, and TOA interlinks.

At my Tournament of the Arts (2024) luncheon, these went fast. Adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), they’re not meatballs but “fingers”—chunky strips of lean beef, larded, marinated in sweet–sour must and rose vinegar with warm spices, then skewered with sage and bacon and roasted. They’re dramatic, portable, and perfect for camp kitchens, dayboards, or a roast platter. Think Renaissance barbecue—minus the smoke ring, plus saffron glaze.

Original Recipe (Scappi, Opera 1570)

Per fare polpettoni alla romanesca di lombolo di boue, o di uaccina
Get the leanest part of the tenderloin… sprinkle with ground salt and fennel flour or coriander with common spices. Set four lardoons of marbled salt pork in each piece. Place them in a press with that mixture and a little rose vinegar and must syrup for three hours. Then mount them on a spit with a rasher of bacon and a sage or bay leaf between each piece; cook over a moderate fire. When done, serve hot with a sauce of their drippings together with what exuded from them in the press, somewhat thick and saffron-coloured.

Two Italian Sauces for Roasted Meat: Walnut & Green Herb (Medieval to Renaissance)



Tacuinum Sanitatis, Casanatense 4182 (14th c.): roasting meat at the hearth. Public domain. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons / Biblioteca Casanatense.

Two Italian Sauces for Roasted Meat: Walnut & Green Herb (Medieval to Renaissance)

Updated with historical context & interlinks to the 2024 Tournament of the Arts lunch menu.

For the Tournament of the Arts (2024) lunch, I wanted condimenti that traveled well, didn’t need reheating, and made simple roast or cold meats sing. These two Italian sauces do exactly that: a nutty, velvety Savor di Noci alla Fiorentina (Walnut & Garlic) and a sharp, herb-forward Salsa viridis (Green Sauce). Think of them as a historical alternative to mustard—great for camp kitchens, feasts, and picnic trays.

Flavor contrast at a glance: Walnut sauce = rich & earthy · Green sauce = bright & piquant. Serve both so diners can choose their adventure.

Italian Renaissance Spit Roasted Beef made with Salted Brisket & Served with Sweet Mustard Sauce from Scappi

Animal detail from medieval illuminated manuscript, British Library Harley MS 3244, 1236-c 1250, f47r

Arrosta — the grand roast course of a Renaissance feast — was far more than just meat on a spit. In Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570), the arrosta included an impressive variety: spit-roasted meats, braised vegetables, elegant sauces, pasta, and even colorful jellies. This was the third course of our 12th Night 2024 feast, following the Alesso course. It showcased the depth of Italian Renaissance cooking, balancing hearty dishes with refined accompaniments.

For this feast, we adapted Scappi’s recipes for a modern feast kitchen, using brisket in place of a full rack of beef ribs, seasonal vegetables, and accessible modern cooking methods — without losing the rich flavors of the originals.

Historical Context: The Arrosta in Renaissance Dining

Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to several Popes, published his monumental cookbook in 1570. His work captures both grand courtly dining and practical Lenten fare. The arrosta course was often the centerpiece of a meal, designed to impress guests with skill, abundance, and variety. Alongside the expected roasts, Scappi included vegetable dishes, pasta, and desserts, showing the Renaissance love for balanced and abundant tables.

In Renaissance banquet tradition, the arrosta — literally “roast” — was more than a single dish. It was a set course, positioned after the boiled meats (al lesso) and before the final sweets, and served as a showcase for the host’s wealth, skill, and access to prime ingredients. In Italian and broader European practice, this course could include not only spit-roasted meats, but also fried, grilled, and baked dishes, as well as richly sauced accompaniments.

Theory of Digestion and Humoral Balance

The Renaissance kitchen did not operate solely on taste — it was deeply influenced by the Galenic theory of digestion. According to this model, digestion happened in stages, with foods progressing from lighter and moister to heavier and drier as the meal went on. Roasted meats were considered among the “drier” preparations, especially when spit-roasted over open flame, which was thought to reduce their innate moisture. Without correction, such dishes were believed to tax the body and cause imbalance in the humors, particularly in those of “dry” constitution.

To make these roasts more healthful and digestible, period cooks paired them with moistening sauces — sweet, tart, or spiced — that counterbalanced dryness. This is why Renaissance cookbooks, including Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera (1570), often present roast recipes alongside multiple sauce preparations. In our feast, this principle is reflected in the Salsa di Mostardo amabile (sweet mustard sauce) and the walnut-garlic sauce served with the beef.

Variety Within the Roast Course

While the name suggests a single cooking method, the arrosta could include:

  • Spit-roasted meats — large joints of beef, lamb, game birds.
  • Grilled dishes — chops, skewers, or offal.
  • Fried items — fritters, pastries, and delicate morsels.
  • Baked pies and pasties — often with meat or cheese fillings.

This variety allowed the cook to display mastery over multiple techniques while still keeping within the course’s “dry” category in humoral terms.

Salting as a Preservation Technique

Our beef for this course followed a process rooted in Renaissance preservation methods. Salting was one of the most important means of keeping meat edible beyond the immediate slaughtering period, especially before reliable cold storage. Coarse salt (often mixed with aromatics like fennel, coriander, or garlic) was rubbed into meat to draw out moisture through osmosis, inhibiting bacterial growth. In larger households and urban kitchens, salted meats allowed for advance preparation and easier provisioning — vital for feast service where dozens or even hundreds of guests might be served.

In Scappi’s recipes, salting could be brief — just hours — for seasoning and texture, or extended over several days for preservation. The salted pressed beef method we adapted for our brisket echoes both preservation and seasoning traditions, ensuring flavorful meat that holds its structure through long, slow cooking. In feast context, the ability to produce such meat out of season or far from slaughter was a mark of logistical skill and kitchen sophistication.


Menu

  1. Per arrostire allo spiedo un carré di costolette di manzo – To spit-roast a rack of beef ribs (Brisket substitution) 
  2. Per brasare le cipolle intere in quaresima – To braise whole onions in Lent 
  3. Salsa di noci e aglio – Walnut and Garlic Sauce 
  4. Salsa di Mostardo amabile – Sweet Mustard Sauce 
  5. Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche – Turkish Squash 
  6. Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda – Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style 
  7. Gelo in bocconcini di piu colori piatti – Jelly in small bites, of many colors