Egg Leaveners: A Historical Journey from Renaissance Biscottini to Modern Baking

Mostaccioli a la Romana - Almond "Cakes" & Biscottini di zuccaro - Sugar Biscuits

Introduction: The Role of Eggs in Historical Leavening

Long before baking powder and baking soda revolutionized kitchens, cooks relied on clever, natural methods to bring lightness and lift to breads, cakes, and cookies. Among these, eggs stood out as a versatile, accessible, and surprisingly effective leavening agent—especially prized in pastries, biscuits, and delicate baked goods.

Yeast and barm starters fermented doughs, while early chemical leaveners like potash and hartshorn offered quick rising alternatives. But eggs, with their unique physical properties, provided bakers a reliable way to create tender, airy textures without fermentation or chemicals.

How Eggs Leaven: The Science Behind the Rise

• When egg whites are beaten or folded into batters, their proteins unfold and trap tiny air bubbles, creating a stable foam.
• During baking, these trapped air pockets expand with heat, causing the mixture to rise and set into a tender, airy crumb.
• This mechanical leavening doesn’t rely on fermentation or chemical reactions, allowing quicker and often more predictable results.
• Separating yolks and whites further refines control—whipped whites beaten to soft or stiff peaks can fine-tune texture and volume.

While yolks add richness and tenderness, the foaming power that lifts the batter mainly comes from the whites.

Historically, chicken eggs were common, but goose and duck eggs—larger and richer—were prized in special recipes. Coastal and rural areas might use quail or pheasant eggs, subtly affecting richness and leavening power. Variations in egg size and composition required cooks to carefully adjust techniques and ratios.

Cultural and Medicinal Significance of Eggs

Eggs weren’t just functional ingredients—they carried cultural and medical meanings. In medieval and Renaissance humoral theory, foods were classified by qualities like hot, cold, moist, and dry, believed to affect bodily balance.

Eggs were considered “warm and moist,” balancing “cold” or “dry” ingredients such as certain vegetables or grains. This philosophy shaped recipe construction and timing, elevating eggs beyond mere ingredients to symbols of health, harmony, and even seasonality.

Egg Leavening Compared to Yeast and Chemical Leaveners

Different leavening methods produced distinct textures and flavors:

• Yeast breads develop chewy crumbs and complex flavors through fermentation. They have longer shelf life but require time and precise conditions to rise.
• Egg-leavened goods like sponges, biscuits, and small cakes offer delicate crumb and richness. They rely on mechanical aeration and are best consumed fresh due to higher moisture and lack of preservative fermentation.
• Chemical leaveners such as potash and hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) emerged later, yielding quick rise and crisp texture but sometimes imparting strong flavors.

Together, these methods gave bakers a versatile toolkit, tailored for occasions from daily bread to grand banquets.

Historical Context and Development

Eggs as leaveners have roots in antiquity. Ancient Roman texts like Apicius’ De Re Coquinaria (4th–5th century CE) include recipes enriched with eggs, implying leavening roles (Dalby, 2003). By medieval times, cookery manuscripts showed increasing sophistication, recognizing eggs’ ability to trap air and lighten crumb (Toussaint-Samat, 1992).

The Italian Renaissance (14th–17th centuries) was pivotal. Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570) details egg-leavened tortelletti, sponges, and biscotti. This knowledge spread across Europe, influencing French and English baking (Albala, 2011). English texts like Forme of Cury reflect local adaptations.

Eggs’ “warm and moist” classification under humoral theory guided recipe design and usage by season and constitution (Fissell, 2010). Socioeconomic factors also influenced egg use; while chickens were common, eggs were seasonal and sometimes scarce, reserved for special occasions or wealthier households (Lea & Ward, 2003).

Pre-1600 Examples of Egg-Leavened Baked Goods

Fifteenth-century manuscripts document egg-leavened baked goods predating chemical leaveners. Italian biscottini—crisp cookies folding whipped egg whites into sweetened dough—are well attested (Scappi, 1570). English texts like Forme of Cury (ca. 1390) describe egg-based cakes and biscuits aerated by beating (Leahy, 1999).

Typical ingredients included wheat flour, honey or sugar, eggs (whole or separated), and spices like almonds, citrus peel, and cinnamon (Toussaint-Samat, 1992). Egg whites were hand-beaten to a stable foam, then folded carefully to preserve air bubbles, producing tender crumb (Smith, 2013).

Success depended on whipping and folding skill. Recipes emphasized “enough” eggs and beating “well,” reflecting practical rather than precise measures (Albala, 2007). These treats, labor-intensive and seasonal, were reserved for feasts, showcasing culinary artistry.

Post-1600 Innovations and Refinements

The 17th century brought refined egg-leavened baking with dedicated sponges and pastries relying on egg foam science. Cookbooks like La Varenne’s Le Cuisinier François (1651) and Woolley’s The Queen-like Closet (1672) describe precise beating and folding techniques for tender crumb (La Varenne, 1651; Woolley, 1672).

Egg whites were whipped to varying stiffness and folded gently—foundational for sponges and foams still popular today. Though chemical leaveners like hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) appeared, egg foam remained preferred for subtle flavor and texture (Albala, 2011).

Regional variation thrived: French genoise sponges favored gentle folding with minimal chemical leaveners (Montagné, 1938), while English Victoria sponge layered jam and cream, highlighting egg-leavened richness (Toussaint-Samat, 1992). Italy preserved airy biscottini and pan di Spagna, blending Renaissance techniques with local tastes.

“To whip eggs to the proper consistency requires both patience and finesse. Early bakers used careful hand motions to achieve soft, medium, or stiff peaks, each suited to different textures.”
— Adapted from Le Cuisinier François (1651)

Hartshorn — The Predecessor to Baking Powder

Before modern baking powder, hartshorn (ammonium bicarbonate) was a common chemical leavener in Europe. Derived from powdered deer antlers, it created crisp, light biscuits but sometimes imparted a distinct ammonia aroma, making egg foam the preferred leavening for delicate cakes and pastries (Albala, 2011).

While effective, hartshorn’s scent was off-putting to some, leading to the development of modern baking powders in the 19th century.

Featured Recipe: Italian Renaissance Biscottini

Ingredients

• 3 large egg whites
• 150g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar
• 150g (1 1/2 cups) finely ground almonds (almond flour)
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
• Pinch of salt

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Whip egg whites with salt to soft peaks. Gradually add sugar while whipping to stiff, glossy peaks.
3. Gently fold in almonds, lemon zest, and cinnamon, preserving airiness.
4. Pipe or spoon dollops onto baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches apart.
5. Bake for 20–25 minutes until dry to the touch and lightly golden.
6. Cool completely on a wire rack before serving.

Tips:

• Avoid overbeating the egg whites to maintain tenderness.
• Baking at a moderate temperature dries cookies evenly without excess browning.
• Experiment with savory variations like minced prosciutto or spices like anise seeds.

Egg Leaveners in the Broader Context of Historical Baking

Egg leavening coexisted with yeast fermentation, chemical agents like potash and hartshorn, and mechanical methods such as creaming butter and sugar.

• Yeast made staple chewy breads with long shelf life.
• Chemical leaveners enabled quick, crisp biscuits but sometimes had strong flavors.
• Egg leavening was ideal for delicate pastries and cakes, prized for lightness without fermentation or chemicals.

Egg-leavened goods were luxurious and reserved for special occasions, contrasting with everyday breads. Due to higher moisture and fat, they were more perishable and best enjoyed fresh.

Modern classics like genoise, pan di Spagna, and ladyfingers descend from these methods, underscoring their timeless appeal.

Timeless Traditions: The Enduring Legacy of Egg Leavening

What’s truly striking is how little the fundamental technique of egg leavening has changed over the centuries. The modern almond biscuit recipe above isn’t far removed from the Renaissance biscottini crafted in 17th-century kitchens.

The same simple yet precise steps—whipping egg whites to glossy foam, folding in dry ingredients gently, and baking at a careful temperature—have carried through generations.

This continuity is a testament to the elegance and effectiveness of these age-old methods. Rather than being “primitive,” historical recipes display remarkable sophistication and intuitive understanding of food science long before modern chemistry.

By baking with these techniques today, you’re connecting directly with a rich culinary heritage. Each whisk and fold echoes the skilled hands of bakers past, bridging time and culture through shared craftsmanship.

Try It Yourself

Whether you’re a history buff or a curious baker, these egg-leavened recipes invite you to whisk your way through centuries of culinary tradition. Try your hand at Renaissance biscottini and taste the legacy of a time-honored technique.

For more on historical leaveners, explore our Forgotten Leaveners series covering potash, yeast, and chemical methods.

Support our work on Ko-fi for exclusive recipes and guides, helping keep history alive on your table.

Suggested Internal Links

• Forgotten Leaveners Series: Potash and Pearl Ash
• Yeast and Barm Starters in Historical Baking (TBD)
• Chemical Leaveners: Hartshorn and Ammonium Bicarbonate

References

• Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Albala, K. (2007). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
• Dalby, A. (2003). Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. Routledge.
• Fissell, M. (2010). Natural Science and the Making of the Middle Ages. University of Chicago Press.
• La Varenne, F. P. (1651). Le Cuisinier François.
• Lea, D., & Ward, J. (2003). The English Cookery Book: Historical Perspective. British Library.
• Leahy, E. (1999). The Forme of Cury: A Roll of Ancient English Cookery. Early English Text Society.
• Montagné, P. (1938). Larousse Gastronomique.
• Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
• Smith, A. F. (2013). The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. Oxford University Press.
• Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.
• Woolley, H. (1672). The Queen-like Closet.

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Note: This recipe was originally published in 2015. This updated version includes clearer instructions, a modern interpretation scaled for groups, and a vegetarian option to better suit today’s kitchens.
For the original historical context and early draft, see Lange Wortes de Pesoun (2015).

Lange Wortes de Pesoun: A Medieval Spring Dish from Harleian MS 279

Lange Wortes de Pesoun — a simple medieval peas and greens pottage inspired by Harleian MS 279, simmered to comforting perfection.

Looking for a seasonal medieval recipe with fresh garden greens and sweet peas? This 15th-century dish combines simple ingredients—peas, onions, and wortes (leafy greens)—into a richly comforting pottage. Featured in Harleian MS 279, it’s proof that medieval cooks knew how to make the most of the spring harvest.

History of the Dish

The Harleian manuscripts, compiled around 1430, include several recipes for vegetable-based pottages. The first of the green recipes is Lange Wortys de Chare, a dish of long-cooked greens. This recipe, Lange Wortes de Pesoun, adds green peas and onions, simmered until tender and fragrant. Despite the less-than-inviting olive-colored broth, this dish was a hit with even my non-SCA teenage tasters.

Did You Know?
Peas are one of the oldest cultivated crops. The Roman cookbook Apicius includes nine recipes for dried peas. By 800 CE, they were grown across Charlemagne’s lands, and by the 1200s, fresh peas were sold in European cities by street vendors.

Legumes, Pulses, and Medieval Abundance

Legumes (fresh in the pod) and pulses (dried) are members of the same family—plants whose fruit grows in pods. This group includes peas, lentils, beans, and lupins. The Latin word "legere" (to gather) gives us "legume." By the 16th century, peas were cultivated in many varieties: short, tall, smooth, wrinkled, yellow, and green.

In this recipe, the term “green peas” likely refers to fresh, shelled peas, suggesting a springtime preparation. But don’t let that stop you from using frozen or dried peas in other seasons—just adjust the cooking time to soften them fully.

A Philosophy of "Enough"

We don't need to measure in cups, tablespoons, or ounces when interpreting medieval recipes. They encourage us to be "enough."

Enough means ample to satisfy, adequate to nourish. Out with "simplify"—in with "enough." A motto worth cooking by.

.ij. Lange Wortes de pesoun.—Take grene pesyn, an washe hem clene an caste hem on a potte, an boyle hem tyl þey breste, an þanne take hem vppe of þe potte, an put hem with brothe yn a-noþer potte, and lete hem kele; þan draw hem þorw a straynowre in-to a fayre potte, an þan take oynonys, and screde hem in to or þre, an take hole wortys and boyle hem in fayre water: and take hem vppe, an ley hem on a fayre bord, an cytte on .iij. or iiij., an ley hem to þe oynonys in þe potte, to þe drawyd pesyn; an let hem boyle tyl þey ben tendyr; an þanne tak fayre oyle and frye hem, or ellys sum fresche broþe of sum maner fresche fysshe, an caste þer-to, an Safron, an salt a quantyte, and serue it forth.

Translation

Take green peas and wash them clean, then boil them until they burst. Remove them, and place with broth in another pot to cool. Then strain them through a strainer into a clean pot. Add shredded onions and pre-boiled greens (such as kale or cabbage) cut into thirds. Combine all in the pot with the strained peas and cook until tender. Finish with oil or fish broth, saffron, and salt. Serve warm.

Modern Interpretation (Serves 8)

• 8 cups frozen peas
• 8 handfuls mixed greens (kale, chard, collards, spinach), chopped
• 1 onion, shredded
• 8 cups homemade beef stock (or fish broth)
• 1 teaspoon saffron (or to taste)
• Salt to taste

Heat peas until soft (about 5-7 minutes), then blend or mash them to a pulp and strain out any large bits.
Boil the greens separately until tender, then press dry.
In a large pot, simmer the broth with saffron and onions until onions soften.
Add the greens to the pot.
Stir in the pea purée and cook for about 5 minutes more.
Season with salt to taste and serve warm.

Tip: For a lighter, brothier dish, try using 5–6 cups of peas and increase the broth to 8–10 cups. Adjust cooking times as needed for a soup-like consistency.
Vegetarian option: Simply substitute the beef or fish broth with a rich vegetable broth to keep the dish meat-free and flavorful.

Budget-Friendly & Feast-Ready

This recipe is one I would happily serve at a luncheon or as a side at a feast. It’s affordable, nourishing, and adapts well to both spring freshness and winter pantry staples.

More Seasonal Recipes?
If you’re looking for other dishes perfect for spring feasts or garden fare, try:

• Lange Wortys de Chare (Long Greens)
• Joutes (Braised Greens)
• Caboges (Braised Cabbage)

Tags:
Pottage, Vegetables, Grain, Medieval, SCA Feast Planning, Period Techniques, Printable

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda - Herb tortellini in the Lombard Style - Scappi

Tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Herb-Filled Pasta in the Lombard Style — Scappi’s Comforting Winter Classic

This delicate and fragrant dish of tortellini stuffed with sautéed greens, herbs, cheese, and sweet spices originates from Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare (1570), the monumental cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi. Best known as the personal chef to Pope Pius V, Scappi was a master of both elaborate banquets and refined simplicity — and this recipe, nestled in Chapter 179 of his Secondo Libro, showcases the Lombard love of herbs, butter, and subtly sweet notes.

Scappi and the Rise of Pasta in the Renaissance Kitchen

Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (1570) offers one of the most complete windows into the elite cuisine of late Renaissance Italy — and pasta plays a surprisingly prominent role. While modern perceptions associate early Italian cuisine with bread and stews, Scappi details dozens of pasta forms: tortelletti, tagliatelle, lasagne, gnocchi, and more. He provides both fast-day (Lenten) and meat-day variations, often using rich fillings, egg-based doughs, and flavored broths.

Beyond Pasta: Scappi’s Influence on Italian Cuisine

While Scappi is celebrated for cataloging pasta, his legacy goes well beyond noodles. He formalized kitchen hierarchy, seasonal menu planning, and equipment standards that echoed into the 18th century and beyond. His work documents early uses of parchment paper for baking, cooking with a bain-marie, and even proto-refrigeration techniques using snow. He preserved the culinary knowledge of late medieval traditions while also introducing innovations that bridged the gap to modernity. Scappi’s recipes emphasized not only taste but also visual elegance, hygiene, and timing — principles that continue to shape Italian fine dining today.

His chapter on pasta (including Cap. 177–179) reflects the growing popularity of filled pasta in elite households — a sign of culinary sophistication. Doughs were often perfumed with rose water or sugar, and pasta was sometimes served in sweetened broths or dusted with sugar and cinnamon. These dishes bridged the gap between savory and sweet, medicine and indulgence, humble vegetables, and luxurious presentation.

In the Spirit of Romoli: Doctrine and Daily Table

Domenico Romoli’s La Singolare Dottrina (“The Singular Doctrine”) outlines not only how to cook but also how to organize and serve elaborate banquets across the seasons. His January banquet — which inspired this feast — features carefully curated combinations of hot and cold, dry and moist, light and heavy, always with an eye toward harmony and digestion. Pasta dishes like tortelletti fit perfectly into this philosophy: gentle on the stomach, warming in the winter months, and suitable for both Lenten and meatless preparations, depending on the broth and sauce.

Romoli, like Scappi, reflects the culinary doctrine of the sixteenth-century Italian elite, where food was viewed as an art, a science, and a means to health, all served in silver.

The Lombard Legacy: Herbs, Pasta, and Humoral Balance

Lombardy, located in northern Italy, was renowned throughout the Renaissance for its refined cuisine and affinity for dairy, herbs, and egg-rich dishes. Dishes like tortelletti d’herba reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and the influence of monastic gardens and courtly kitchens. These small-filled portions of pasta, cousins to ravioli and agnolotti, were considered both elegant and nourishing — ideal for feast days or Lenten fare when meat might be restricted, but the richness was not.

The inclusion of sweet spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with sugar and currants, reveals a broader Renaissance fascination with balancing flavors and creating contrasts on the palate — often underpinned by humoral theory. Warm spices helped balance the “cold” qualities of greens, while cheese and egg yolks added “moist” richness. In this way, tortelletti d’herba were more than delicious — they were medicinally appropriate.

Did You Know?
Common greens used in Renaissance kitchens included bietole (Swiss chard or beet tops), spinaci (spinach), and cavolo nero. Herbs like parsley, mint, marjoram, and savory were prized not just for flavor but for their role in digestive and humoral health.

What Herbs and Greens Were Used in Renaissance Tortelletti?

The phrase herba alla Lombarda in Scappi's recipe refers to a familiar blend of leafy greens and aromatic herbs popular in northern Italy during the Renaissance. Common greens included bietole (chard or beet greens), spinaci (spinach), and sometimes cavolo nero (black cabbage). These were often combined with soft herbs like parsley, marjoram, mint, and savory — herbs prized for their digestive and warming properties, aligning with humoral dietary practices of the time. Regional cooks might adjust the balance of herbs depending on season and occasion: more mint and marjoram in summer, more parsley and chard in winter.

We featured this dish as part of the Arrosto course at our 12th Night 2024 feast, where it was served alongside roast beef, sweet mustard sauce, Turkish squash, and jewel-like Renaissance jelly bites. Helewyse de Birkestad adapted the recipe used in her event, Feste di San Martino, and offers a beautifully balanced winter pasta that pairs greens with Parmesan, currants, and spices.

🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.

Historical Recipe: Per far minestra di tortelletti d’herba alla Lombarda

Scappi, Opera (1570), Cap. CLXXIX, Secondo Libro

Take beet (chard) and spinach, chop very finely, wash in several waters, and wring dry. Fry them gently in fresh butter, and add a handful of odiferous herbs. Boil briefly, then drain and combine the mixture in a glazed earthen or tinned copper pot. Add grated Parmesan and soft cheese, with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, currants, and enough raw egg to bind. If too soft, add breadcrumbs; if too firm, more butter. Make pasta as described in Chapter 177, shape small or large tortelletti, boil in meat broth, and serve with cheese, sugar, and cinnamon on top.

Modern Redaction (Adapted by Helewyse de Birkestad)

Pasta Dough

• 4 cups all-purpose flour
• Pinch of salt
• 1 tbsp butter, melted
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tbsp rosewater
• ~1¼ cups warm water (as needed)

Filling

• 1 bunch Swiss chard
• 1 bunch spinach
• Small handful each: parsley, mint, marjoram
• 15 oz ricotta
• 6 oz Parmesan (grated)
• 1–2 eggs
• 1 oz currants
• Salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron to taste

Instructions

1. Make the Dough: Combine flour, salt, sugar, melted butter, and rosewater. Mix with warm water to form a smooth dough. Knead well, then rest covered for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the Filling: Wash and chop the greens and herbs. Sauté in butter until wilted. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor with cheeses, eggs, spices, and currants until a firm but scoopable filling forms.
3. Shape the Tortelletti: Roll pasta thin (second-to-last setting on a hand-cranked machine). Cut into squares or circles. Place small scoops of filling, fold and seal. Shape into tortelletti.
4. Cook: Boil in salted water (or broth) until they float — about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot.
5. To Serve: Top with a light dusting of grated cheese, cinnamon, and sugar for an authentic Renaissance finish.

Regional Variations Across Italy

Though Scappi’s version is firmly rooted in Lombardy, filled herb pastas appear across Italy with regional twists. In Emilia‑Romagna, tortelli di erbette are filled with greens and ricotta, often served with sage‑butter. Tuscany offers tortelli maremmani, sometimes incorporating wild greens and nutmeg. Liguria features pansoti made with preboggion (a traditional wild herb mix) and walnut sauce. Each variant celebrates local herbs and fillings while preserving the form’s essential comfort and seasonality.

Notes from the Feast Table

At 12th Night 2024, these tortelletti were part of the Arrosto course with:

• Spit-roasted beef (brisket)
• Turkish squash dishes
• Sweet mustard sauce
• Gelo in bocconcini di più colori (jelly in small bites)

Want More from This Feast?

This recipe is just one part of our 12th Night 2024 Renaissance Feast, inspired by Scappi, Romoli, and the lavish January banquets of Renaissance Italy.

To see the full event menu and explore additional recipes as they’re released, visit the official feast page:

Flaming Gryphon 12th Night 2024 Feast Menu.

Looking for printable cards or a bundled feast pack? Support the project on Ko-fi and stay tuned for downloads!

Revisiting Quince: A Medieval Fruit with Modern Flavor

 

Revisiting Quince: History, Recipes, and Rediscovery

What it is, why it matters, and how to cook with it today—plus links to historical quince recipes!

I. Introduction

In 2014, we explored quince for the first time on this blog. The Kitchen Adventures - Working with Quince, was one of the first articles I published.  Now, with years of experimentation behind us and a growing archive of recipes, we're returning to this fragrant fruit to dig deeper into its history, flavor, and role in historical cuisine.

Quince is a fruit both ancient and enigmatic—celebrated in antiquity, prized in the medieval kitchen, and curiously underused today. Its transformation through cooking is nothing short of alchemy: from rock-hard and mouth-puckering to melting, fragrant, and complex. This article revives quince in all its golden glory—offering techniques, tips, and historical insight to make it relevant for your table again.

II. What Is Quince?

Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a member of the Rosaceae family, which includes apples, pears, and roses. Though too astringent to eat raw, quince undergoes a remarkable transformation when cooked—its firm flesh softens, its pale color deepens into a rosy amber, and its aroma fills the kitchen with a delicate perfume. Often considered the forgotten cousin of the apple, quince is nuanced, elegant, and quietly captivating.

III. A Long History of Love

Quince has charmed cultures for centuries. Dioscorides praised it in the first century, and it appeared frequently in medieval and Renaissance manuscripts in various forms: poached in honey, preserved with vinegar and spices, or simmered into thick, rich pastes. Known to the Greeks as the "Cydonian apple," quince was later featured in English recipes as chardequynce or quynade—early iterations of modern fruit jellies and marmalades.

Quince in Classical Medicine and Lore

Quinces were praised by herbalists and physicians across antiquity and the Middle Ages. Dioscorides recommended placing peeled quinces in a jar filled with honey, where they would soften into a medicinal treat over the course of a year—this method, called melomeli, was said to settle the stomach.

The Greeks called them kythoni, and Roman authors like Galen categorized quinces as cold and dry in nature. In medieval herbals like Henry Lyte’s 1578 translation of A Nievve Herball, quinces were described in detail: they could "stop the laske," soothe dysentery, prevent headaches from "vapors," and even ensure wise children if eaten during pregnancy.

Dodoens noted two varieties—apple and pear quinces—with the pear-shaped being larger. He described the scent as so fragrant that once the downy skin was removed, they appeared “as yellow as gold.”

Preservation Through Time: From Melomeli to Marmalade

Long before the term “marmalade” came to mean citrus jam, preserved quince was the original treat. Various names and techniques survive in recipes from the 1st to 16th centuries:

• Melomeli: Quince aged in honey for a year, per Dioscorides (1st c.).
• Cidonitum: A Roman and Byzantine jelly with vinegar, honey, ginger, and pepper.
• Chardequynce: A late medieval spiced paste of quince, honey, and ginger—eventually giving way to early marmalades and membrillo.

How to Make Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)

Chardequynce was once served alongside cheese, meats, or at the close of a feast. It's made from cooked quince purée, honey, and warming spices—sometimes including eringo root (sea holly), considered an aphrodisiac in humoral medicine.

Teaser recipe: Simmer peeled, quartered quince until soft. Mash, strain, and cook with honey until thick enough to hold a furrow when stirred. Add ground ginger and (optionally) eringo. Spread into pans to dry. For full instructions, see: Of Quince, Its Nature and Virtues.

📜 Printable Recipe: Chardequynce (Medieval Quince Paste)

Yield: 1 tray of sliced quince paste (stores indefinitely)

Ingredients:

• 1 lb quince – peeled, quartered, seeds removed
• 12 oz honey (or sugar)
• 2¼ tsp chopped ginger
• 1½ tbsp ground ginger
• ¼ lb eringo root powder (optional)

Instructions:

1. Place quince pieces in a pot with just enough water to cover. Simmer until soft.
2. Strain and mash or purée fruit. (Save cooking water, seeds, and peels for jelly.)
3. Return pulp to pot. Stir in honey and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until thickened—about 45 minutes.
4. Optional: Stir off heat until the paste lightens in color.
5. Mix in chopped ginger, ground ginger, and optional eringo root powder.
6. Spread onto a parchment-lined tray or pan and allow to dry in a cool place for 3–4 weeks.
7. Slice and serve with cheese or as part of a final course.

Note: If you can't find eringo root, substitute with an additional teaspoon of fresh ginger or a few teaspoons of chopped candied angelica or fennel for a similar effect. Or simply omit—it will still taste delicious.

Historical Note: Based on 16th c. English and earlier Greek/Byzantine quince paste traditions. Traditionally stored in wooden boxes or wrapped in oiled paper.

Enhancing and Using Quince in Modern Cooking

Quince is a fragrant, complex fruit that transforms dramatically when cooked. Though it's traditionally used in jams and pastes, quince can shine in a wide variety of savory and sweet applications—when treated with the proper techniques.

Best Cooking Techniques to Enhance Quince Flavor

1. Poaching (Slow Simmering)
   Simmer peeled, sliced quince in water, sugar, and optional aromatics for 1–2 hours.
   Result: Tender, floral, honeyed slices of fruit with a silky texture.
2. Roasting
   Slice and roast quince with honey or butter at 375°F (190°C) for 45–60 minutes.
   Result: Caramelized, aromatic fruit perfect for savory pairings.
3. Braising
   Add to braised meat dishes during the final hour.
   Result: Quince soaks up savory juices and lends fragrance to the dish.
4. Pickling
   Briefly simmer in vinegar brine; chill before using.
   Result: Tart, firm quince for salads or cheese boards.

Modern Applications Beyond Sweets

• Cheese Boards: Pair membrillo with Manchego or blue cheese.
• Glazes & Sauces: Reduce quince poaching syrup for pork or duck.
• Salads & Slaws: Use pickled quince in bitter greens and mustard dressings.
• Grain Bowls: Mix roasted quince into farro, lentils, or barley with herbs.
• Tagines: Add quince to North African stews with lamb, saffron, and cinnamon.

Excellent Pairings to Showcase Quince's Unique Flavor

• Cheese: Manchego, Comté, Gorgonzola, Goat Cheese
• Meat: Duck, Pork, Lamb, Game Meats
• Spices: Cardamom, Cinnamon, Ginger, Star Anise, Saffron
• Fruits/Veg: Apples, Pears, Citrus, Beets, Carrots

Want to make your own?
You can download and print our free recipe card for Chardequynce—a spiced quince paste from the 16th century. Made with honey, ginger, and (optionally) eringo root, it keeps beautifully and pairs with cheese or roasted meats.

More Historic Quince Recipes:

• Quince-Infused Marzipan
• Apples Stewed with Quince and Pignoli Nuts
• Quynade (almond milk cheese flavored with quince)
• Quidinia (Quince Jelly)
• Of Quince: Its Nature and Virtues

Resources & Historical Notes

Primary Sources

• Dioscorides – De Materia Medica
• Harleian MS. 279
• Rembert Dodoens – A Nievve Herball (1578, trans. Henry Lyte)

Reference Texts

• Hieatt, C.B. – The Culinary Recipes of Medieval England
• Wilson, C. – The Book of Marmalade
• Austin, T. – Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books

Want More?

Explore more historical recipes and culinary lore under these tags:
Fruit | Confections and Dessert | Jellies and Gelatin