Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon & Apple
“Can I have some bacon?” — Pippin
Sweet-tart braised red cabbage with bacon and apple brings bright color and cozy flavor to the table. It’s the sort of farmhouse pan you’d expect in any well-run Hobbit hole.
Showing posts with label Vegetable and Grains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vegetable and Grains. Show all posts
Roasted Roots – Hobbit Feast Vegetable Side
Roasted Roots
“Only a bundle of carrots… and the sack of potatoes… and the mushrooms the week before!”
A sheet pan piled high with beets, parsnips, squash, potatoes, onion, and garlic—caramelized at the edges and tender within. This is countryside cooking at its best, fit for Farmer Maggot’s kitchen and yours.
Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes for Lent
Braised Onions & Florentine Walnut Sauce – Renaissance Recipes from Scappi and the Anonimo Veneziano
Two Renaissance dishes: Scappi’s braised onions and the Anonimo Veneziano’s Florentine walnut sauce—perfect for Lenten tables and historical menus.
Renaissance Italian cooks excelled at creating rich, satisfying dishes even during Lenten fasting, when meat, dairy, and animal fats were forbidden. This post brings together two such dishes from different, yet overlapping culinary traditions: Braised Whole Onions from Bartolomeo Scappi’s monumental Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570) and Savor di Noci alla Fiorentina (Florentine Walnut Sauce) from the Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano, 14th–15th century). While separated by time, both recipes reflect the ingenuity of cooks in crafting full-flavored fare from vegetables, nuts, and spices.
Historical Context
Bartolomeo Scappi (c. 1500–1577), personal chef to several popes, authored one of the most detailed Renaissance cookbooks. His onion preparations show how texture (parboil, then gentle frying/braising) and small finishings (sugar & cinnamon, or savory sauces) elevate humble ingredients. The Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (Anonimo Veneziano) is a late medieval Italian collection that bridges regional tastes and techniques; its Savor di Noci builds body with bread and nuts and layers in “sweet and strong” spices—an enduring Mediterranean profile that pairs beautifully with vegetables and fish.
Ingredient Notes & Substitutions (Modern vs. Historic)
- Onions: Scappi favors large onions; modern sweet onions (Vidalia, Walla Walla, Spanish) mimic the gentle flavor. Yellow storage onions work; extend the parboil and finish with a touch more oil.
- Olive oil vs. animal fat: For Lenten days, oil replaces butter/lard. Use a mild extra-virgin olive oil; historical kitchen oils varied by region and cost but olive oil is authentic to Italy.
- Verjuice vs. lemon juice: Period recipes commonly use agresto (verjuice). If unavailable, lemon juice or a mix of lemon + a splash of white grape juice or cider vinegar gives similar acidity without wine.
- Walnuts: European walnuts (English/Persian) are standard. Toast lightly if your nuts taste flat; cool before grinding to avoid bitterness.
- Parsley: Flat-leaf (Italian) parsley best matches period use; it purées cleaner than curly parsley.
- Bread & breadcrumbs: Period thickeners were yesterday’s bread crumbs. Use plain white breadcrumbs (no herbs). For gluten-free, use a neutral GF crumb; texture may be slightly looser—reduce broth by 1–2 Tbsp.
- Stock/broth: The Libro di cucina walnut sauce is built on fish broth; for meatless days use fish stock or vegetable broth. Veg broth yields a milder, greener profile that pairs well with the onions.
- Sugar & cinnamon finish (onions): Sweet seasonings on savory dishes were fashionable and humoral in intent. A light dusting is correct—aim for aromatic, not dessert-like.
- Flouring the onions: Scappi allows a light dredge before frying/braising for delicate crust and sheen. Skip for a strictly sauced presentation.
- Garlic: Raw garlic in the sauce is period-correct; simmering in broth tames sharpness. For gentler flavor, mortar the garlic with salt first.
How These Dishes Reflect Renaissance Culinary Practice & Culture
- Lenten discipline & ingenuity: Church fasting rules shaped daily menus. Cooks developed satisfying oil-based dishes (no meat/dairy/animal fats) that leaned on vegetables, nuts, bread, and fish. Braised onions in oil and a walnut-thickened sauce are textbook Lenten strategies.
- Bread as technique, not just starch: Breadcrumbs are a signature medieval–Renaissance thickener, giving body and a silky mouthfeel without dairy.
- Nuts for richness: Walnuts (and almonds) stand in for cream/butter, delivering both fat and texture. Nut sauces were common across elite and everyday kitchens.
- Sweet & savory balance: The period palate prized contrasts—sweet with savory, sour with spice. Sugar-cinnamon on onions and “sweet & strong” spice blends in sauces reflect fashionable taste and humoral thinking about balancing qualities.
- Acid frameworks: Verjuice, citrus, and vinegar brighten dishes and aid digestion. The lemon/verjuice finish on onions and the broth-simmered walnut sauce show this acid thread.
- Continuity across eras & sources: Pairing a Scappi recipe (printed, 1570) with a Libro di cucina manuscript (14th–15th c.) shows how older medieval techniques persisted and evolved in Renaissance kitchens.
- Technique-forward cookery: Parboil → drain → gentle oil cook for onions; grind → simmer to thicken for the sauce. Texture management was a core culinary skill in elite households.
Takeaway: These dishes aren’t “making do”—they’re deliberate, technique-driven plates that display Renaissance taste, texture, and balance within the constraints of the liturgical calendar.
Recipe 1: Braised Whole Onions (Scappi, 1570)
| Original (summary from Scappi) | Modern Translation |
|---|---|
|
Parboil onions, drain well, and prick so excess water escapes. Fry or braise in olive oil until tender and golden. Serve sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, or dress with a savory sauce (garlic, green sauce, or the walnut sauce below). Stuffed versions use a spiced nut-herb filling and are finished with verjuice and aromatics. |
Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – Renaissance Chicory Salad with Raisins & Shallots
Insalata di Cicorea Bianca, Scalognetti Freschi – White chicory salad with fresh shallots and raisins
— From the 16th‑c. Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook
Insalata di Cicoria Bianca – chicory salad served at Baronial 12th Night Feast
This vibrant bitter-sweet salad was served during the Secundo Servito – Antipasti di cucina course of the Baronial 12th Night 2024 Feast. Inspired by a 16th-century Hungarian court manuscript known as the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook, it reflects a moment when Italian culinary sophistication influenced kitchens far beyond the Alps. The recipe calls out the Italians by name — praising their simplicity while offering a Hungarian twist.
This recipe comes from the Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid-16th c.), preserved in Hungarian sources and available via MedievalCookery.com. It reflects Hungary’s cosmopolitan court culture under rulers like Gabriel Bethlen, where Italian culinary practices were deeply admired and adapted
Historical Background: A Transylvanian Culinary Lens
The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook was compiled in a culturally rich period when Transylvania — then a principality of the Kingdom of Hungary — absorbed diverse culinary influences from Italy, the Ottoman Empire, and the German-speaking world. Courts under princes like Gabriel Bethlen and György Rákóczi I cultivated both humanist learning and refined dining. Italian food was especially admired, and references in the manuscript highlight its prestige.
🌍 Cross-Cultural Influences in the Transylvanian Court Kitchen
The Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook reflects a sophisticated fusion of culinary traditions. While Italian cuisine is explicitly referenced, the manuscript shows clear signs of diverse influence:
- Ottoman Cuisine: Spiced meats, rice, pickled fruits, and sweet-sour pairings suggest Turkish and Persian inspiration.
- Germanic Traditions: Dumplings, pork fat, and bread-based dishes echo Saxon and Bohemian styles from Habsburg lands.
- Slavic Elements: Fermented dairy, allium-rich dressings, and foraged greens reflect broader East-Central European customs.
- Possible Armenian or Jewish Touches: Sweet-savory sauces with dried fruit and nuts hint at urban Levantine or Sephardic culinary habits.
This layered culinary identity was typical of 16th-century Transylvania, a crossroads of empires and trade. Recipes like this salad — which pairs Italian simplicity with Hungarian technique — exemplify that blending.
“The Italians do it like so: they slice [the chicory] into a pot or a plate, add salt and black pepper, then eat it. We Hungarian chef masters soak this, too.” — Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook
Renaissance Salad Styles
🌿 Renaissance Salad Styles
In Renaissance cookery, the concept of a salad went far beyond leafy greens. Derived from the Latin salata (meaning “salted things”), salads included raw or blanched vegetables, fresh herbs, cooked greens, and even warm dishes — all united by the presence of oil, vinegar, or brine.
Salads during this period often reflected Galenic medical theory, which emphasized balancing the four humors through food. Certain greens were considered cooling and moist, while others were hot and dry — and preparation methods were used to correct imbalances.
- Simple Salads – Raw herbs or greens, lightly salted or drizzled with oil
- Soaked Salads – Bitter greens or roots soaked to soften their bite or draw out excess moisture
- Composed Salads – Layered or marinated salads with ingredients like dried fruit, onions, and vinegar
- Herbed Salads – Complex mixtures of aromatic herbs, flowers, and sometimes spices
- Cooked Salads – Blanched or sautéed greens such as lettuce or spinach, often served warm and dressed, considered more digestible per Galenic principles
This dish blends the soaked and composed styles, pairing the bitter, cooling properties of chicory with the warming sweetness of raisins and the sharpness of shallot, all softened in a steeped vinaigrette. The balance of humors and textures makes it both medically appropriate and gastronomically appealing for a Renaissance table.
Italian vs. Hungarian Approaches
The manuscript’s author explicitly compares methods: Italians salted and dressed their chicory simply, while Hungarian chefs preferred to soak it. This extra step likely softened its bitterness and made it more palatable for guests unused to raw greens. The use of shallots and raisins adds both flavor complexity and textural contrast, demonstrating the court’s elevated approach to even humble ingredients.
The Role of Salads in Feast Structure
In formal Renaissance banquets, salads were often part of the Credenza (pantry-style) or Antipasti di Cucina (kitchen-prepared) courses. Their placement early in the meal aligned with medical advice — balancing digestion and setting the stage for heavier fare. This salad, with its bitter greens, aromatic vegetables, and tangy dressing, served as a perfect counterpoint to bot of the crostata's and pickled grapes also offered in this service.
Salads for Peasants, Merchants, and Princes
Not all Renaissance salads were created equal. Across early modern Hungary, salad preparation and presentation reflected both social class and medical belief:
- Noble Courts: Chicory, fennel, and imported greens were paired with raisins, citrus, or aromatic vinegars. These salads were layered, often steeped, and served early in formal meals to stimulate digestion.
- Merchant Households: Seasonal greens like cabbage or wild sorrel were tossed with onions, vinegar, and local oils. They mirrored court recipes in form but not luxury.
- Peasant Tables: Raw herbs and greens — if eaten — were foraged or grown and often dressed only with salt or a splash of vinegar. In some European regions, fermented dairy or whey may have been used as a simple dressing. In Hungarian folk cooking, foraged greens like sorrel, nettles or dandelions were mixed with sourmilk or tejföl (fermented cream). Although these practices are not codified in noble cookbooks, they are part of practical traditions that have been handed down via oral tradition.
Over time, noble recipes filtered downward, simplified by necessity but retained in memory. This salad's bittersweet profile — once elite — became a rustic staple in many regional cuisines.
Modern Interpretation – Serves 8
- 1 large radicchio or white chicory, thinly sliced
- 1 cup shredded red or white cabbage
- 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
- ½ shallot, thinly sliced
- ½ cup red raisins (or halved red grapes)
Dressing
- ½ cup raisins
- ½ shallot, minced
- 2 tbsp vinegar (balsamic or red wine)
- ¼ cup extra‑virgin olive oil
- Salt & pepper, to taste
- Toss salad ingredients in a large bowl.
- In a separate bowl, combine raisins, shallot, vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil and let steep.
- Just before serving, drizzle dressing over the salad and serve immediately.
Humoral Properties of Chicory
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) was widely praised in Renaissance herbals and medical texts for its cooling and drying qualities. According to Galenic theory, it helped balance excess choler and bile, soothed the liver, and stimulated digestion. Bitter foods like chicory were often served at the beginning of a meal to “open the appetite.” When paired with vinegar, oil, and sweet elements like raisins, it formed a well-balanced and elegant dish.
Renaissance Salad Comparison by Region
| Region | Salad Base | Dressings | Cultural Notes | Extant Recipes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Italian States | Chicory, endive, lettuce, fennel | Olive oil, vinegar, salt, herbs | Served early in meals for digestion; emphasized freshness and refinement | Lettuce - a cooked lettuce salad served with green sauce |
| Hungary (Nobility) | Chicory, fennel, radicchio, cabbage | Olive oil, vinegar, raisins, shallots | Adapted Italian forms; emphasized balance of bitter/sweet and humoral properties | White Chicory Salad (Modern Redaction) |
| England | Lettuce, spinach, herbs, flowers | Vinegar, oil, sugar, citrus juice | Often layered with nuts, dried fruit, and sweet-sour dressings; herbal and floral salads appeared in elite dining |
Pepys To Make Buttered Wortes – Pepys 18 |
| Germanic Lands | Cabbage, cress, herbs | Vinegar, lard, egg yolk | Hearty, rustic, influenced by monastic and beer culture | Salat – Aromatic Medieval Herb Salad |
| Ottoman Territories | Herbs, purslane, onions | Lemon juice, yogurt, oil, sumac | Rich sweet-sour profiles; integrated medicinal herbs | Purslane Salad – Medieval Recipes |
🥕 Dietary Notes
- Vegetarian: ✔️
- Vegan: ✔️
- Gluten‑Free: ✔️
- Galenic balanced: Bitter greens offset by sweet fruit and sharp aromatics
Historical References
- Prince of Transylvania’s Court Cookbook (mid‑16th c.): includes “Chicory salad… The Italians do it like so…” and a list of 1603 feast menus
- Chicory in Galenic medicine: see John Gerard’s Herbal (1597), and Mattioli’s Commentarii (1544)
- Banquet structure and salad use in Renaissance Europe: Platina, Scappi, and Romoli
Krambe – Roman Cabbage Salad with Ancient Dressing
Krambe – Roman Cabbage
Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm or cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast
Historical Background
“Krambe,” the Latin word for cabbage, refers to a humble yet important vegetable in the Roman diet. Cabbage was not only a staple food but also valued for its supposed medicinal properties. Roman authors like Cato the Elder praised cabbage as a preventative against disease, and Apicius included several variations in his culinary writings.
This particular preparation features a simple but flavorful dressing of oil, wine, and spices—showcasing Roman balance between taste and practicality.
Modern Interpretation
This version softens the cabbage by boiling, then combines it with classic Roman seasonings for a zesty, herbed side dish.
Ingredients
- 1 medium cabbage
- 3 oz olive oil
- 1 tbsp liquamen (or substitute fish sauce)
- 1 tbsp white wine
- 1 tsp caraway seeds
- 1 small onion, finely sliced
- Coriander, salt, and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Boil cabbage in water 15–20 minutes until tender.
- Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again, and chop finely.
- In a bowl, mix olive oil, wine, liquamen, onion, and spices.
- Pour dressing over cabbage and mix thoroughly. Serve warm or chilled.
Sources
- Apicius – De Re Coquinaria (LacusCurtius): Full Latin & English Text
- Cato the Elder, De Agricultura: brief mention of cabbage as medicine
🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?
Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:
Roman Chickpeas with Saffron – Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis
Course: Mensa Prima (First Course)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Warm
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast
Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis – Chickpeas with Saffron
Historical Background
Chickpeas (erebinthoi) were a staple in Roman kitchens and often flavored simply to let their natural taste shine. This dish appears in sources such as Galen and Celsus, referencing medicinal and nutritional uses of legumes. The addition of saffron—an elite, aromatic spice—suggests a refined table.
Did You Know?
Saffron was so precious in Roman times that it was sometimes scattered in theaters or used as perfume in wealthy homes. Its use here elevates a humble legume.
Modern Interpretation
This simple recipe allows the creamy chickpeas to shine, while saffron lends fragrance and color. It's best served warm and is ideal for modern feasts that aim to balance richness with legume-based fare.
Ingredients
- 6 ounces dried chickpeas
- A generous pinch of saffron
- Salt
Instructions
- Soak chickpeas overnight in cold water.
- Drain and place in a heavy saucepan with 2 pints of fresh water and a pinch of salt.
- Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and add the saffron.
- Cover and cook gently for at least 1 hour until the chickpeas are tender. Serve warm.
Sources & Further Reading
🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?
Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:
Epityrum – Seasoned Olives from Ancient Rome (Apicius)
Epityrum – Roman Herbed Olive Spread
Course: Gustum (Appetizer)
Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Cold
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast
Historical Background
Epityrum is a Roman olive paste found in De Agri Cultura by Cato the Elder. A mix of olives, herbs, and vinegar, it was served as a flavorful appetizer. It highlights the Roman love of seasoned preserves and showcases the Mediterranean pantry of antiquity.
Did You Know?
Cato writes: “Lucanicae are so called because soldiers learned to prepare them from the Lucanians...” Oops! That’s for sausages. For Epityrum, he writes: “Pound green, black, or mottled olives. Add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint.”
Read the digitized text at the Perseus Digital Library – Cato’s De Agri Cultura.
Modern Interpretation
This version captures the herbal punch of the original while using accessible pantry ingredients.
Ingredients
- 1 cup pitted black or green olives (or a mix)
- 1 tsp white wine vinegar
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- ½ tsp dried coriander
- ½ tsp ground cumin
- ¼ tsp fennel seed
- Pinch of dried mint
- Pinch of dried rue or substitute arugula
- Salt to taste
Instructions
- Crush the olives roughly using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
- Add oil, vinegar, and all herbs/spices. Mix into a coarse paste.
- Taste and adjust seasoning. Store with a thin layer of olive oil on top.
Serving Suggestions
Serve with rustic bread, Piadina, or crackers alongside cheese and Roman sausage for a full gustatio experience.
Sources
- Cato – De Agri Cultura 119: Perseus Digital Library
- Apicius – De Re Coquinaria: LacusCurtius
🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?
Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:
Ancient Roman Braised Cucumbers – Apicius Recipe (Cucumeres)
Cucumeres – Braised Cucumbers
Course: Gustum (Appetizer)Origin: Ancient Rome
Served: Room Temperature
Event: Push for Pennsic 2004 – Early Roman Feast
Cucumeres – Braised Cucumbers
Ingredients:
- 1 large cucumber
- 3 tbsp. white wine vinegar
- 3 tbsp. olive oil
- 1 tbsp. clear honey
- Salt to taste
Part of the Push for Pennsic Roman Feast Series!
This recipe was originally served as part of the Early Roman Feast at Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004. Explore the full menu and other Roman recipes from this event.
This recipe was originally served as part of the Early Roman Feast at Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004. Explore the full menu and other Roman recipes from this event.
Instructions:
Peel and cut the cucumber into thick slices. Pour the vinegar, olive oil, and honey into a heavy pan and cook the slices of cucumber gently in the sauce until tender, shaking the pan occasionally to redistribute the cucumber slices and ensure even cooking.
Note: Best served at room temperature.
🌿 A Note on Ancient Cucurbits
The word cucumeres in Latin is commonly translated as “cucumbers,” but Roman references to cucurbits were broader than our modern definitions. Roman cooks had access to a wide variety of cucurbit species, including:
- Old World cucumbers (Cucumis sativus): Likely thinner, with more bitterness than modern varieties.
- Melons and gourds (Cucumis melo, Lagenaria spp.): Young melons or gourds were used like vegetables.
- Bottle gourds (Lagenaria siceraria): Also used for food when harvested young.
- Snake melon/Armenian cucumber (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus): Treated culinarily as a cucumber.
If you're cooking this dish today, any firm, mild cucumber will work. For historical flavor and texture, the following heirloom varieties are excellent options:
- Suyo Long – A crisp, curling cucumber with tender skin.
- Armenian cucumber – Technically a melon, but ideal for cucumber-like preparations.
- True Lemon cucumber – A round, yellow heirloom closer to older Mediterranean cultivars.
- Bottle gourd – Available from specialty grocers or heirloom seed sources.
Where to Source Seeds:
- Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
- Seed Savers Exchange
- Monticello Heritage Seeds
🍷 Want more recipes from this feast?
Explore the other dishes served at the Early Roman Feast – Push for Pennsic, July 9–11, 2004:
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro)
This dish was featured in the Arrosto Course at our 12th Night feast—a hearty Renaissance soup using “Turkish squash,” adapted from Bartolomeo Scappi’s Secondo libro (Chapter 220).
The Singular Doctrine (La Singolare Dottrina) of Domenico Romoli offers a unique window into Renaissance feast planning. This early 16th-century treatise provides monthly banquet menus, richly detailed with courses designed for specific occasions, balancing seasonality, variety, and symbolic meaning.
The January Banquet Menu — Morning Service
The 12th Night menu was inspired by Romoli’s January banquet for twenty-four guests, served with three “choppers” (set meals). His detailed menu for January includes a fascinating array of dishes, highlighting seasonal ingredients, complex preparation techniques, and artistic presentation:
- Zambella Biscotta and Berlingozzo Fresco: Traditional breads served with the bread service
- Pignoccate and Ciambellette Dorate: Specialty fried dough and donuts
- Marzapani Frigiati di Oro: Golden fried marzipan sweets
- Carniscioni a Figure: Decorative savory pastries
- Morselletti di Napoli: Biscuit-like specialties from Naples
- Bericocoli di Siena: Traditional sweet dishes paired with wine
...and many more including stewed fruits, meat dishes, and elegant roast preparations.
Understanding the Singular Doctrine Recipe and Feast Structure
The Singular Doctrine as articulated by M. Domenico Romoli nicknamed Panunto presents Renaissance recipes and feasts as flexible, technique-focused guides rather than strict formulas.
- Seasonal and Monthly Organization: Menus are tailored to the ingredients available in each month, ensuring freshness and harmony with nature.
- Course and Service Sequencing: Detailed breakdowns guide the flow of dishes—from breads and sweets to roasts and fruits—designed for balanced pacing and presentation.
- Implicit Ingredient Listings: Ingredients are often embedded in the instructions rather than separately listed, reflecting the expectation of experienced cooks to understand proportions and techniques.
- Emphasis on Technique and Adaptability: Recipes emphasize process and sensory cues, encouraging cooks to adapt based on local availability and personal judgment rather than rigid measurements.
Connecting Romoli’s Doctrine to Our 12th Night Feast
The 12th Night feast drew inspiration from Romoli’s doctrine, blending historical authenticity with practical adaptations:
- Incorporating Scappi’s Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche (Turkish squash soup) as a seasonal, hearty dish
- Featuring breads and sweets like Pani di Latte e zucchero & brazzatelle to honor traditional bread services
- Using detailed recipes from historic sources linked to Romoli’s dishes (pignoccate, marzipan sweets, and more)
This layered approach enriches both our culinary exploration and educational storytelling.
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche — Turkish Squash Soup (Scappi, Secondo libro, Cap. CCXX)
Original Historic Recipe (Italian)
Per far diverse minestre di zucche Turchesche, cap CCXX, Secondo libro, Scappi
Piglisi la zucca Turchesca nella sua stagione, la qual comincia dal mese di Ottobre & dura per tutto Aprile, & nette che sara della scorza & degl'interiori taglisi in pezzi, & facciasi perlessare, & perlessata che sarattasi con li coltelli, & facciasi cuocere in buon brodo di carne, & marinisi con cascio grattato, & uove sbattute, & si potrࠡncho accommodare con le cipolle nel modo che si accommoda la nostrale sudetta.
Avvertendo che se la zucca sara soda, sara molto migliore, & per conservarla ha da stare in loco asciutto, & arioso, & non ha da esserre busciata in loco alcuno, percioche l'aria la sarebbe putrefare, in questo modo le si potrare scorze secche delle zucche Savonese dope saranno perlessate in acqua caldo & state in ammollo in acqua fredda.
Modern English Translation
To make various dishes with Turkish squash, Chapter 220, 2nd book, Scappi:
Take the Turkish squash in its season, which begins in October and lasts through April. Clean it of its skin and innards. Cut it into pieces and parboil it. Once parboiled, chop it finely with a knife and cook it in good meat broth. Thicken and enrich it with grated cheese and beaten eggs. One can also prepare it with onions in the same manner as our native squash as described above.
Be aware that if the squash is firm, it will be much better. To store them, keep in a dry and airy place without any holes because air will cause them to rot. In this way, one can make dried skins of Savonese squash after parboiling in hot water and soaking in cold water.
Historical Context and Zucchini Substitution
The “zucca Turchesca” referred to by Scappi was likely a firm winter squash, such as the “zucca mantovana,” prized for its texture and storability. For our modern adaptation, we used zucchini, a summer squash, which offers a lighter texture and fresher flavor.
While zucchini cooks faster and has more moisture than winter squash, it still captures the essence of the historic dish and allows us to honor Renaissance cooking with available produce.
🦚 Curious about the full feast?
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.
Explore the complete menu from the Flaming Gryphon 12th Night Feast 2024 to see all the dishes and historical inspirations behind this event.
Modern Adaptation: Roasted Zucchini Parmesan Soup
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Yield: Serves 4–6
Ingredients
- 3 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges
- 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- Cracked black pepper, to taste
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only (about 1–2 tablespoons)
- 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
- 4 cups good quality meat broth (beef or veal preferred)
- 2 beaten eggs (optional, for enrichment)
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional, for onion variation)
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 400ºF (200ºC).
- Arrange zucchini wedges on a baking sheet or shallow dish. Season evenly with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Dot with butter and sprinkle rosemary leaves.
- Roast uncovered for 20–30 minutes until tender and lightly caramelized, checking after 20 minutes.
- Meanwhile, bring broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot.
- Remove zucchini from oven. Add to broth, chopping roughly or pureeing for a smoother texture.
- If using, stir in beaten eggs slowly while gently stirring to prevent curdling. Add onions if desired and simmer gently until softened.
- Serve topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Notes and Tips
- Zucchini’s softer texture means a shorter roasting time than winter squash.
- Egg enrichment echoes Scappi’s original instructions, adding richness.
- For a heartier version, consider adding root vegetables or using winter squash.
- Use a good-quality meat broth for depth, or substitute vegetable broth for a lighter soup.
Historical Background: Squash in Renaissance Italy
The “zucca Turchesca” (Turkish squash) referenced by Scappi likely denotes a type of winter squash introduced to Europe following the Columbian exchange, though some squash species may have arrived earlier via Mediterranean trade routes.
Squash Varieties of the Period:
- Early Italian cookbooks mention firm-fleshed winter squashes, similar in texture to what we now call “savoy” or “marrow” squash, prized for their storage qualities.
- The text’s emphasis on firm texture and dry, airy storage conditions reflects an understanding of preserving winter squash for extended use through the cold months.
- Italian regional varieties such as the “zucca mantovana” (Mantua squash), known for its thick flesh and mild flavor, or other local heirlooms may have been used.
- The term “Turkish” possibly refers to the exotic origin or the shape/color resembling melons or gourds traded from the Ottoman regions.
Scappi’s recommendation to parboil, chop finely, and cook in rich meat broth with grated cheese and beaten eggs reflects Renaissance tastes for combining local ingredients with culinary sophistication.
Bringing Renaissance Flavors to Your Table
Exploring historical recipes like Scappi’s Turkish squash soup offers a delicious way to connect with the culinary traditions of the Renaissance. Whether you choose to follow the original instructions or adapt with modern ingredients, you’re participating in a rich tapestry of food history.
We invite you to try this recipe, experiment with the flavors, and share your experiences. Cooking history is as much about creativity as it is about preservation.
For more historical recipes and feast inspiration, check out these related posts:
- To Prepare a Filled Twist
- Vaccina Salpresa Alessata, Servito Con Petrosemoto - Cold Pressed and Salted Beef
- Mostaccioli a la Romana - Roman Morsels
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Happy cooking and buon appetito!
References
- Scappi, B. (1570). Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare. Venice.
- Albala, K. (2011). Food in Early Modern Europe. Greenwood Press.
- Toussaint-Samat, M. (1992). A History of Food. Wiley-Blackwell.
Onion Pottage with French Bread and Cheese – Robert May’s 17th-Century Comfort Food
This rich, onion-based pottage was a hit during a lunch fundraiser at a SCA Collegium event, where it helped raise funds for Arts & Sciences in celebration of the SCA's 50th anniversary. Easy to prepare, completely meatless, and packed with deep, savory flavor, it's a classic piece of "tavern fare" that works beautifully for both period events and modern autumn or winter meals. The original recipe hails from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), a cornerstone text of early modern English cuisine.
Original Recipe (Historical Source):
"Fry good store of slic't onions, then have a pipkin of boiling liquor over the fire, when the liquor bils put in the fryed onions, butter and all, with pepper and salt: being well stewed together, serve in on sops of French bread."
— Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook (1660)
Modern Interpretation (Serves 4):
Ingredients:
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- ½ lb onions, peeled and sliced ¼" thick
- 4 cups vegetable stock (or broth of choice)
- 1 tsp salt
- ⅛ tsp black pepper
- Toasted French bread (for serving)
- Cheese (optional for serving)
Instructions:
- Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
- Add sliced onions and sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden.
- Meanwhile, bring the vegetable stock to a boil in a separate pot.
- Add the sautéed onions, including the oil, to the boiling stock.
- Reduce heat and simmer for 10–15 minutes.
- Season with salt and pepper to taste.
- To serve, place toasted slices of French bread in bowls, ladle the hot onion broth over top, and add cheese if desired.
Feast/Event Notes:
This dish was one of several warm, filling options served during our Collegium fundraiser tavern lunch. As a vegetarian-friendly option, it was ideal for feeding a crowd. Easy to prepare in advance, it holds well when kept warm in a crockpot or kettle. Paired with rustic bread and cheese, it offers satisfying, stick-to-your-ribs nourishment.
Earlier Onion-Based Variations:
This recipe from The Accomplisht Cook reflects a later stage in the evolution of onion pottages; earlier forms also appear in medieval English manuscripts. For example, Harleian MS 279 (c. 1430) includes Soupe Dorroy, a richer onion soup thickened with egg yolks, and Oyle Soppys, a simpler version that uses oil and broth over toasted bread. These earlier dishes demonstrate how cooks adapted flavor, texture, and fat sources over time and across regions.
Historical Context & SCA Use:
Robert May trained in the kitchens of English nobility during the late Tudor and early Stuart periods. Although The Accomplisht Cook was published just after the SCA's traditional 1600 cut-off, it remains an essential source for "period-adjacent" fare, especially for those exploring the evolving foodways of late-period England.
May's recipes straddle medieval and modern tastes, capturing a unique culinary crossroads. This pottage exemplifies those characteristics: hearty, rustic, and comforting, yet straightforward and adaptable for contemporary kitchens.
📜 Note for SCA Context:
Many in the SCA community recognize this dish as a reliable choice for "late period" events, especially when authenticity is a priority. It showcases the shift in English cuisine from medieval traditions to more modern techniques, making it ideal for immersive experiences, educational demos, and fundraising taverns.
Context & Menu Placement
This onion pottage was served as the opening course of our Collegium Lunch Fundraiser Tavern, a midday meal designed for easy service, rich flavor, and historical ambiance. The full menu featured a balance of meat, vegetarian options, and accessible ingredients, suited to both reenactors and newcomers.
Menu Highlights Included:
– Pork Pie with Mustard
– Cold Roast Chicken with Garlic, Sage, or Must Sauce
– Cold Lentil Salad
– Roasted Root Vegetables
– Pickles & Olives
– Fresh Fruit (Apples, Grapes, Oranges)
– French Bread & Cheese
– Water & Soda
You can view the full event menu here.
Each dish was selected to reflect late-period culinary traditions while remaining practical for modern kitchen crews and feast planners.
Labels:
17th Century | Onion Dishes | Pottage | Robert May | Tavern Fare | SCA Fundraiser | Vegetarian Friendly
Kitchen Adventures – Pickled Cabbage ((German) Wilthu machenn eynngemacht Crautt)
As part of Appolonia's vigil feast, this recipe for pickled cabbage was included. It was chosen because it could easily exist on a dayboard and did not require refridgeration. This recipe can be found in "Ein Kochbuch aus dem Archiv des Deutschen Ordens" (A Cookbook from the Archives of the Teutonic Order), a culinary manuscript published in the 15th century.
Original Text:
"So seudt weysse Heuptt und ein zweythell Sennffs und das dritthell Hoengs und die selbing mach undereinander mitt Wein und thu darein Koemel und ein des genug und leg dan des gesotten Kraut darein und gibe es kalt. also magst auch priesen die Seudt mitt Wrczenn und gyb sy hin."
Translated Text: If you want to make pickled cabbage: "Boil white cabbage heads, take two parts mustard and one part honey, mix them with wine and add caraway. It's enough, put the boiled cabbage into it and serve it cold. You can also season the broth and serve it."
Ingredients:
- 1 large head of cabbage (or 2 smaller ones)
- 9 oz stone-ground mustard
- 4 oz honey
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 1 tsp caraway seeds
Instructions:
- Boil the cabbage until just tender. It should be soft but not mushy.
- In a saucepot, mix the stone-ground mustard, honey, white wine, and caraway seeds. Bring to a slow boil for about 5 minutes.
- Peel leaves from the cabbage head.
- Pour the sauce over the cabbage and chill.
- Serve cold and enjoy this delightful fusion of history and flavor.
Glossary:
- Weysse Heuptt: White cabbage
- Sennffs: Mustard
- Hoengs: Honey
- Koemel: Wine
- Wrczenn: Caraway
Sources
"Königsberg Cookery Book." Florilegium.org, Florilegium.org, https://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-MANUSCRIPTS/Konigsberg-art.html
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