Testing Recipes -- Om mosterdsaus te maken - To Make Mustard SauceNyeuwen Coock Boeck

Taken from Gent KANTL 15, volume 1: [Nyeuwen Coock Boeck, C. Muusers (trans.)]:

1.32. Om mosterdsaus te maken

Neem wat appelmoes en doe er wat mosterd bij met wat gemalen paradijskorrels. Meng dit samen goed.

1.32. To make mustard sauce 

Take some applesauce and add some mustard with ground grains of paradise. Mix this well together.

The first recipe to come together is this sweet mustard that will be served alongside the pork.  It reads very simply. I do feel that I should make a period "Apple Sauce" to add  the mustard to, in order to ensure that the flavor is as authentic as I can make it.  

Into the rabbit hole....

Ein Buch von guter spise is a logical source. It is dated between 1345 and 1354, a bit early for most of the reciepts that I will be using, but how much could a basic apple sauce change? 

The original recipe is located here: Ein Buch von Guter Spice

The recipe reads thus: 

(69.) Ein apfelmus.

Wilt du machen ein apfelmus. so nim schöne epfele und schele sie. und snide sie in ein kalt wazzer. und süde sie in einem hafen. und menge sie mit wine und mit smaltze und ze slahe eyer mit wiz und mit al. und tu daz dor zu. und daz ist gar ein gut fülle. und versaltz niht.

Google Translates offers this rather hilarious translation: 

Will you make an apple sauce.  so take beautiful apples and scold them. and cut it into cold wazzer. and south you in a harbor. and mix them with wine and with smaltze and ze slahe eyer with wiz and with al. and close it. and there is even a good fullness. and not oversalted. 

 

Pretty funny, right? Further research found that this recipe is rather common and has been translated from by multple sources whom I consider peers.  Dan Myer's offers this translation on his Medieval Cookery site. 

How you want to make an apple puree. So take fine apples and skin them. And cut them in a cold water. And boil them in a pot. And mix them with wine and with fat and also beat eggs with white and with all. And do that thereto. And that is a very good filling. And do not oversalt. [Ein Buch von guter spise]

My own interpretations for recipes of a similar nature can be found here: lxxix. Apple Muse - Apple Mousse &  .Cxxxiiij. Apple Moyle - Apple Soft.  

Ingredients for Applesauce 

Apples

Wine

Fat (butter or lard)

Eggs

Salt

I find these ingredients confusing, because the addition of fat and eggs means that the sauce itself will be thicker and richer and not what we traditionally think of when we think of applesauce. Traditional fats in medieval cooking were lard, oils, and when available butter. It reminds me a little bit of lemon curd recipes (eggs, sugar, butter and lemon zest and juice).  

It's been ages since I made mom's lemon curd, but that is the recipe I first look up.  Here it is: 

Mom's Lemon Curd

Juice of 2-3 lemons ~1/3 cup

Zest of 1 lemon

4 egg yolks

2/3 cup granulated sugar

6 tbsp. butter

pinch of salt

This gives me an approximate idea of how much of each ingredient for the interpreted recipe I will need.  

Here are my guesses at interpreting the recipe: 

Wine would substitute for the juice of the lemon. 

Apples to replace lemon zest and lemon juice. 

2 Whole eggs instead of four egg yolks

No Sugar??

Keep salt to enhance flavor and please modern tastes

No Spices??? 

Interpreted Recipe

1-2 Apples, peeled, cored and cut into chunks - Use a mix of apples - better flavor

2 whole Eggs

~ 1/3 cup wine  - use lemon juice in lieu of wine for more "child friendly" sauce

up to 6 tbsp. of butter

salt

*Opt. Sugar and Spices

Following the recipe, the apples should be peeled and cored and added to a pot with water.  The assumption is that you boil them until they are soft and then mix the softened apples with wine, butter and then the eggs to thicken it.  At the end of the recipe salt is mentioned so salt should also be added.  Noteably what is missing are spices!  You would expect to have spices in this sauce.  The only flavorings are the apples and the wine.  

Having made lemon curd in the past I know that I am going to use a double boiler to create this dish.  I know my first step will be to cook the apples until they are soft in either water or the wine/lemon juice, and since I want this to be a sauce, I know I will puree the apples before moving into the next step. 

The next step will involve heating the  pureed apples with the eggs,  sugar and the eggs  until the eggs are fully cooked --approximately two to three minutes - at which point I will add in the butter a tablespoon at a time until the mixture begins to thicken.  I assume that like lemon curd, apple curd can be stored in sterilized jars up to a month or so. 

I am wrestling with the idea that there is no sugar or spices, and after the first test, I may add sugar to it.  We will see.  The other recipe I found for applesauce in lent also foregoes sugar, so it may not have been used in this region during this period.

1.16. Appelmoes in de vastentijd

Neem appel, geschild en in stukken gesneden. Doe ze in een pot, neem de lever van kabeljauw of schelvis en laat deze met de appels koken. Roer het vaak. Wrijf saffraan fijn. Stoot dan [de saffraan] in [het appelmengsel] en vermeng het met amandelmelk. Pureer het als het klaar is, schep het op schotels en strooi er specerijen bovenop.

1.16. Apple sauce in Lent

Have apples, peeled en cut in pieces. Put them in a pot, take the liver of cod or haddock and bring this to the boil with the apples. Stir it frequently. Grind saffron finely. Pound [the saffron] in [the apples] and temper with almond milk. When it is ready purée it, serve it on plates and sprinkle spices on top.

Modern Adaptation: Medieval Apple Sauce

Day 2: Moving Forward and testing this recipe to make apple curd

Time to test making apple curd- because I do not have wine we will be using water and lemon juice to cook the apples. I only have medium eggs available, and I'm using three apples that are past their eating prime--yay me.  With those exceptions I will be using the recipe I created yesterday.  If it works, I will be adding mustard and grains of paradise to it.  I must confess that while I've made mustard from scratch in the past, I currently use a stoneground mustard that is pre-made.  

Test Results

I followed the recipe for the applesauce exactly as I wrote it.  It does create a soft pale colored sauce that is very "fragrant" with apples, however the texture is not what I would think of as  modern "Applesauce"--it is a sauce, similar to a gravy. With the savory flavoring of butter and egg so prevalent this dish could be offputting if it was not served correctly--as a sauce.  

If I were to serve this as a side dish, I would add some sugar or honey to enhance the sweetness a little bit more, and cut down on the butter and egg..maybe using half as much as the recipe called for, 

As a savory sauce--it is good, and it was a great way to use up older apples that were starting to go a bit mealy. That said, I moved ahead and prepared it with the mustard.  I was very aggressive with the seasoning for the mustard and veered off from just the grains of paradise.  I found a recipe for a traditional sweet german mustard and used just the spicing from that. 

The traditional german sweet mustard recipe can be found here. Bavarian Sweet Mustard (Bayerischer Süßer Senf)

For the mustard part of this dish I used stoneground mustard mixed 1/3 with dijon mustard.  

Spice Mix

4 Juniper Berries

1/2 tsp. Grains of Paradise

4 Cloves

8 Black Peppercorns

It is currently mellowing in the fridge so the flavors can meld together. I will test it next week.  The guinea pig enjoyed the mustard sauce and pronounced it good. 

No pictures as yet, because this is just a test run.  

On to the next rabbit hole.....

11/9/2021 - Update

I had to do more research on the applesauce...I thought perhaps I had misunderstood what kind of an apple sauce was needed. I may need to rethink the recipe above based on this recipe I found while rsearching "apple sauce". Sabrina Welserin suggests this as a proper sauce for game and small birds. 

8 To make a sauce with apples for game and small birds

Take good apples and peel them and grate them with a grater and put a little fat in a pan over [the fire] and let it become hot and put the apples in it and let them roast therein. After that put good wine thereon, sugar, cinnamon, saffron and some ginger and let it cook together for a while, then it is ready. One should boil the small birds first and then roast them in fat.

Instead of a smooth sauce I might be looking at a chunkier sauce of apples cooked with wine, spices and then mustard added?? Time to research the roast and to determine how much is too much on spicing. 

Yay!

Into the Rabbit Hole!

 I have been asked to try to document my process on creating the recipes I use for a feast.  This is difficult for me to put into words as I have been cooking since I was old enough to stand at a stool at the stove.  Sometimes my mind just *knows* how to put something together to make it work.  That being said...welcome to the Adventure. 

I'm excited to be asked to cook for this event.  Our SCA is opening up after the pandemic and I must confess that the loss of the ability to share food which I have researched and prepared with friends had effected me more then I had expected.  I still cooked for family during this time, stretching my boundaries and making new and interesting dishes.  I've discovered that a new family favorite is Navajo Fry-bread.  I have fond memories of fry-bread from my youth and it was exciting to share what I consider a festival treat with my family on a regular basis.  But--these things are for modern day cooks, and not things I could write about in a blog I had designed for quick reads and immediate access to workable recipes. 

I must confess, that I have kept my toes in the pond by finishing up interpretations for the remainder of the pottage recipes in the HarlMS279. I also started combining similar recipes together, and I've decided to make changes on the blog to reflect my idea of how to create a "Modern Medieval Feast".  You may have noticed a new section in the blog "Index of Recipes by Category".  Here I am starting to index the work I have done, to fit into appropriate medieval appetizers, first course, second course and dessert dishes.  I am also working to create categories for Medieval Breakfast foods which are mostly the cereal based pottages, breads and pastries and drinks. Indexing the large body of work is tedious and slow--but it is getting done.  So I've not been entirely quiet during this time. 

Which brings me to the next feast.  Specific rules indicate that it can be served either potluck or tavern style.  Hopefully by January, we will have moved beyond the restrictions that I must create the menu within.  Either way, there will not be servers at this point.  My last 12th Night feast was extremely elaborate in terms of menu and food prep, and I have to confess, it is my preferred style of cooking. It consisted mostly of dishes I had interepreted myself and the style of the feast was using my "Modern Medieval Feast template".  

What is this template? The template is a method of serving food that closely follows the dietary regimen of the 15th Century based upon Greek Dietetics, the idea that food must be eaten in the appropriate manner to retain maximum health. When looked at this way, the layout of the feast is very easy--appetizers meant to awaken the appetite and open the stomach, brothy or saucy dishes, heavier roasted dishes, then foods meant to close the stomach and prepare it for digestion.  Yes, it is remarkably modern in design. It also makes it easy for me to create a menu that not only is cost effective, but easy to arrange. 

For this feast I am limited in what and how I can serve.  So I already know that I will be serving "Pot-luck" in two courses, because that is what fits my cooking preference the best. Tavern style means limited dishes in a two course settting.  I can't recall the last time I created a feast that had six dishes or less :-/ Part of the challenge for me is to expose my diners to as many dishes as I can to create the illusion of an elaborate feast for nobles. 

I know from my template that appetizers and pottages will create the first "course" and that roasted/baked and dessert dishes will create the second course. I know that I am cooking for a very limited number of people so I have room to play with fussier dishes if I want to.  I know that I have suggested to the Event Stewards that they should plan for 24-36 diners, and that they should consider limiting to tables of 6 versus tables of 8 to increase the space between diners and lower the possibility of infection rates.  I have also suggested that feast be reservation only.  I am still waiting the event stewards decisions.  Should the stewards take my suggestions there will be six tables with six diners each, or, if we keep to eight per table as usual, then I will be cooking for five tables and 40 diners. No servers, so I will not need to worry about cooking for servers, but there will be staff to help cook day of (masked and gloved of course), so one additional table of food to plan so everyone can eat.  

I reached out to a friend of mine, Volker Bach, who has been posting regularly in my "Historic Cooking" facebook group and asked permission to use their interpretations of manuscripts to create my own recipes.  I got a YES! This is the first of many attributions to Volker Bach you will see. This gives me a  direction to research in and a "style" of cooking to use, German/Dutch for 12th Night. 

To reiterate at this point in time where the rabbit hole is taking me: Pot-Luck Style, Two Courses, Multiple dishes--some can be very fussy!, and limited people to cook for.  Pandemic precautions in place in the kitchen. 

Some thoughts on things I might like to do: 

Pork Roast, stuffed with fruit and served with gingerbread sauce

Cheese Soup served in a pastry (the original recipe does not call for yeast, and is a mix of flours, wheat and rye) that is flavored with fennel and bacon--this may not work as I might want.  Thoughts include adding sour dough to ferment and raise the dough a bit, or just serve it to dip on the side. 

A Neat's Tongue (it sounds better then a cow's tongue doesn't it?) that has been first salted, then smoked, and served very thinly sliced 

Roasted Peas - looks fun, although flavor may be doubtful

A pickled component or two along with other cured meats to serve with the soup similar to a garnish then an actual dish..however, could be part of a salad if using "winter greens" like kale. 

Gingerbread to be made for the sauce

Roasted Milk - this dish seems to be a staple in this style of cooking and therefore is a must in the feast--it should technically be served either in appetizer or second course.

Herbed Dumplings or Rice Fritters for the starch component of the roast--it's up in the air at this point--both are easy to make-- rice fritters are fussier then dumplings and dumplings might add a needed "green" component beside the pork and gingerbread sauce. 

Mustard-found great recipe made with roasted apples and hot mustard...reflects fruit used in pork..might be a good accompaniment. --need to find recipe again... :-/ should have saved it--Found it!

Marchpane-- easy 12th Night Must Have Dish

Comfits and candied peels - chamber spices -- coriander and cinnamon? Maybe Anise..but may be too much "licorice" given fennel in the pastry and possibly sausages. Can Mint be saved from frost? Sugared mint leaves would make a nice background for the comfits.

Pears in wine to be served over a custard (cream pudding) for sweet dish--note..if using roasted milk do you want custard? That puts dairy in every course..cheese soup, roasted milk, custard.  Yeowches...perhaps funnel cakes instead? Serve with "Snow" fruit sauce (cherries?)

Baked oranges?? Sounds delish and easy --should be a stunning presentation if served as described

Things to avoid -- "expected dishes" like pickled beets and saurkraut..because..they are expected--this does not mean that beets and kraut won't show up, they may be components of another dish or serve as garnishes.  They won't be main or side dishes. 

Sotelty - Here be the bean and the pea - Sugar Paste Walnuts filled with sugar candies (Holliplen?), red and green ribbon - will need the reservations to ensure there are enough red/green walnuts to denote male/female for bean/pea. 

You are encouraged to visit Volker Bach's website here: Culina Vetus

Mustard Sauce Testing and Recipe Creation 

Insalata di arance tagliate a fette, servite con zucchero e acqua di rose - Sliced orange salad with rosewater and sugar

 This is a deceptively simple and easy to put together dish, and quite delicious.  I did not have rosewater, so I added orange flower water instead.  It was very refreshing, and lasted several days in the refridgerator, making it a terrific make ahead and serve feast dish.  Please Note: I neglected to copy the original recipe for this, but I'm looking for it!  This may be modern, vs. period. 

Insalata di arance tagliate a fette, servite con zucchero e acqua di rose - Sliced orange salad with rosewater and sugar

6 oranges
1-2 tbsp. rose water
squeeze of lemon juice

Opt:

2-3 medjool dates, halved lengthways

2-3 pistachio's finely chopped
3 tbsp. mint, finely chopped
icing sugar, to garnish

Peel the oranges with a sharp knife and remove any pith. Slice into very thin half moons. Try to capture the juice and pour into the serving bowl or platter.

Arrange the orange slices on a serving platter. Sprinkle over rose water and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Scatter over chopped dates and pistachio nuts.

Garnish with the finely chopped mint and, just before serving, dust over some icing sugar.

Per far minestra di Lenti secche - To prepare a thick soup of dried lentils

 

I love lentils! They are one of my favorite legumes and they have a very long history of cultivation dating back between 8000 and 10000 years ago.  When I found this recipe in Scappi's Opera I knew I had to try it.  It makes a delicious  (and inexpensive) soup, but an even better salad.  

I have to confess, I cheated and used canned lentils for the salad, but you could make this even less expensive and purchase dried lentils and cook them yourself according to your packages directions.  I have included the soup recipe here, along with the changes I made to convert this from a soup to a salad.

When/if the SCA allows us to cook feasts again, you will be seeing this soup at a future event. 

Per far minestra di Lenti secche - To prepare a thick soup of dried lentils

Clean dirt off the lentils and put them into a pot with warm water; remove any that float and boil the rest in the same water. While they are boiling, with a large, holed spoon lift out any that rise to the top and put them into another pot: that is done so that the sand that sometimes gets into their little hole will come out and drop to the bottom of the pot. Put good lentils into a pot with oil, salt, a little pepper, saffron, water and a handful of beaten fine herbs; finish off cooking them. For the dish to be good, make the broth rather thick. Cloves of garlic can also be cooked with them, and bit pieces of tench and pike.

1 ½ c. lentils
2 ½ c. water
2 T olive oil
1 tsp black pepper
2 cloves garlic chopped
3/4 tsp salt
¼ tsp. Pepper

Herbs to taste; basil, rosemary, oregano, fennel, thyme, parsley or sage  
Pinch saffron

Opt: Onion (for modern taste), additional olive oil, lemon

The beauty of lentils is that they do not need to go through a prolonged soaking period. Do make sure to rinse your lentils before you add them to your pot of water, and do make sure that as they cook you remove any that rise to the top, and any scum that forms while they are cooking. You can if you choose cook your lentils in vegetable stock but it is not a necessary step.  

Cook your garlic in your oil, add all other ingredients with the exception of salt.  Bring water to a boil, lower heat to a medium-low and simmer your soup until lentils are tender.  You may add any herbs you wish.  I usually add a handful of kale to this soup along with some onion (which I've cooked with the garlic), thyme, basil and parsley. 

To serve, garnish with a drizzle of oil and a squirt of lemon. 

To Make into a "Salad" -  Make a dressing using lemon juice or vinegar (about 1/4 cup), olive oil (about 3/4 cup), herbs and spices, and mix with your lentils while warm.  Serve warm or cold.