Entremets — The Forgotten Medieval Course Between Pottage and Roast
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| Paolo Veronese, The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), Gallerie dell'Accademia, Venice. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons. |
Etymology & Early References
Entremet derives from Old French (entre + mettre/mettre “to place/send in between”), literally a dish interposed between services. The concept appears prominently in 14th‑century French sources such as Le Viandier and later in Le Ménagier de Paris; in English material (e.g., Harleian MS. 279, c.1430) you find dishes that likely filled the same role, even when not labeled “entremet.”
Function of the Entremet
- Pacing & Palate Reset: a light interlude after dense pottages or fish and before the roasts.
- Spectacle & Surprise: color shifts, unusual textures, disguised forms, molded shapes.
- Status & Seasonality: ingredients like saffron, sugar, almonds signal wealth and trade access; colors and motifs reflect seasonal/religious themes.
Entremet vs. Soteltie (Subtlety)
| Aspect | Entremet | Soteltie / Subtlety |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Culinary surprise between services; light refreshment | Edible (or semi‑edible) display; allegory, heraldry, pageant |
| Form | Real dishes: rice, fritters, jellies, fruit, delicate pottages | Sculpted pastry/sugar/marzipan; sometimes inedible components |
| Placement | Between major courses (e.g., after fish/pottage, before roasts) | Also between courses, but primarily ceremonial/representational |
| Examples | Blawnche Perrye; colored rice; almond jelly; small fritters | Heraldic beasts; castles; motto banners; sugar tableaux |
Historical Examples
- Blawnche Perrye — a light, pale pottage; visually striking early in a feast.
- Colored rice — saffron‑gold, parsley‑green, or spiced rice for contrast.
- Fritters — rice or fruit fritters served in small bites.
- Jellies — molded almond or wine jellies; multicolored effects.
- Disguised dishes — meats/fish presented in altered forms for surprise.
Regional Variations of the Entremet
While the entremet began in French courtly dining, the idea of a “between dish” spread widely. Each region adapted the form to local tastes, ingredients, and cultural priorities.
France
In sources such as Le Viandier and Le Ménagier de Paris (14th c.), entremets often took spectacular form — multicolored jellies, stuffed or disguised animals, and occasional allegorical displays.
England
English manuscripts like Harleian MS. 279 (~1430) present plainer entremets: light pottages (e.g., Blawnche Perrye), spiced rice, or oyster dishes — emphasizing humoral balance over pageantry.
Italy
Italian masters (Maestro Martino, Scappi) blurred entremets with refined lighter courses: almond milk dishes, sugared rice, small pasta or vegetable preparations with elegant presentation.
Spain & Catalonia
Texts such as Llibre de Coch (1520) show sweet‑leaning entremets — almond pastes, candied fruits, spiced rice — foreshadowing dessert traditions.
Germany
German Speisebücher and later works (e.g., Anna Wecker, 1598) feature Zwischenspeisen (“between‑dishes”): saffron or parsley‑colored rice, Sülze (bright fish/meat jellies), and fritters like Krapfen or Strauben — practical, colorful, and texturally contrasting.
Comparison at a Glance
| Region | Style | Typical Entremets |
|---|---|---|
| France | Spectacle & allegory | Multicolored jellies; disguised animals; displays |
| England | Plain & balancing | Light pottages; Blawnche Perrye; spiced rice; oysters |
| Italy | Refined & sweet‑leaning | Almond milk dishes; sugared rice; elegant vegetables/pasta |
| Spain | Sweet & aromatic | Candied fruit; almond pastes; sweet rice |
| Germany | Practical & colorful | Saffron/parsley rice; Sülze; fritters (Krapfen, Strauben) |
Cultural Implications of the Entremet
- Status & Wealth: saffron, sugar, and almonds advertised trade connections and prosperity.
- Hospitality & Generosity: an “extra” dish beyond necessity signaled refined care for guests.
- Symbolism & Allegory: colors, shapes, and motifs could project heraldry, virtues, or politics.
- Religious Context: on fast days, almond/fish/rice entremets expressed piety while keeping celebration.
- Urban vs. Rural: princely or guild feasts layered multiple entremets; smaller households scaled with fruit or fritters.
Techniques & Ingredients for Recreating Historical Entremets Today
Coloring & Flavoring
- Saffron for gold; spinach/parsley juice for green; beet/red wine for red‑purple.
- Pouder douce/forte-inspired spice mixes (cinnamon, ginger, grains of paradise/pepper, clove) for warming balance.
Texture & Setting
- Gelatin sheets as a modern stand‑in for isinglass; almond milk (unsweetened) for dairy‑free jellies/pottages; rice flour for smooth thickening.
- Use silicone molds or small ramekins for easy unmolding and portion control.
Service & Plating
- Keep portions amuse‑bouche to tasting‑spoon size.
- Serve on trenchers or small plates for visual “in‑between” cues.
- Contrast color/temperature with adjacent courses (e.g., warm saffron rice after a cool fish pottage).
How Preparation & Serving Evolved Across Cultures
- France: 14th‑c. courtly showpieces; by 17th‑c. service à la française, “entremets” shifts toward plated side dishes (vegetables/sweets).
- England: lighter, balancing dishes early on; later, subtleties dominate the between‑course spectacle while “entremet” as a named category fades.
- Italy: refined palate‑cleansers in Martino/Scappi; drift toward sweet course traditions.
- Germany: practical Zwischenspeisen (colored rice, Sülze, fritters) persist as pacing devices; concept echoes into modern zwischenmahlzeiten (snacks).
- Spain/Catalonia: sweet, aromatic dishes bridge to the rise of post‑meal desserts.
Modern Feast Planning: Reviving the Entremet
- Pick one small, high‑impact dish (colored rice, fritter, molded jelly).
- Plate for contrast (color/temperature/texture) and keep portions small.
- Mind humoral balance: pair cold‑moist (oysters, almond milk) with warming spices (ginger, pepper).
- Leverage dietary wins: many entremets are naturally GF/DF; offer a vegan variant where sensible.
🍽️ Entremet Examples on Give it Forth
- Orenges after the Portugall Fashion – preserved and stuffed citrus
- Gelo in Bocconcini di più Colori – jewel-like multi-colored jellies
- Bolas (Poached Pears in Plum Sauce) – fruit course with sauce
- Spanish Wedges – elegant 17th-c. sweet entremet
- Blawnche Perrye – creamy almond & fish dish, often served between courses
FAQ: Does a Modern Galantine Count as an Entremet?
Sometimes. If served as a small, decorative “between” dish (rather than as part of the roast service), a galantine can function as an entremet. Keep portions modest and presentation striking; otherwise it reads as a main meat course.
Sources & Further Reading
- Le Viandier (14th c.) — early entremet references.
- Le Ménagier de Paris (c. 1393) — household menus with entremet-like items.
- Harleian MS. 279 (c. 1430) — English recipes including light pottages and oysters.
- Maestro Martino, The Art of Cooking — refined Italian inter-course dishes.
- Bartolomeo Scappi, Opera — elegant entremet examples in Renaissance service.
- Anna Wecker, Ein Köstlich new Kochbuch (1598) — German Zwischenspeisen.
- Llibre de Coch (1520, Catalonia) — sweet/aromatic entremet traditions.
Social & Political Implications of Elaborate Entremets