Give it Forth: Adventures in Medieval Cookery: Preserved

Showing posts with label Preserved. Show all posts

To Marinate Salmon to Be Eaten Cold The Accomplisht Cook, Robert May

To Marinate Salmon to Be Eaten Cold

Take a Salmon, cut it into joles and rands, & fry them in good sweet sallet oyl or clarified butter, then set them by in a charger, and have some white or claret-wine, & wine vinegar as much as will cover it, put the wine & vinegar into a pipkin with all manner of sweet herbs bound up in a bundle as rosemary, thyme, sweet marjoram, parsly winter-savory, bay-leaves, sorrel, and sage, as much of one as the other, large mace, slic’t ginger, gross pepper, slic’t nutmeg, whole cloves, and salt; being well boil’d together, pour it on the fish, spices and all, being cold, then lay on slic’t lemons, and lemon-peel, and cover it up close; so keep it for present spending, and serve it hot or cold with the same liquor it is soust in, with the spices, herbs, and lemons on it.

If to keep long, pack it up in a vessel that will but just hold it, put to it no lemons nor herbs, only bay-leaves; if it be well packed, it will keep as long as sturgeon, but then it must not be splatted, but cut round ways through chine and all.

To Marinate Salmon to be Eaten Cold

1 ½ -2 pounds salmon
4 tbsp. butter or oil
¼ c minced parsley
1 tsp. fresh grated ginger
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. peppercorns
4 cloves
1 bay leaf
½ nutme g broken up
1 large piece whole mace
¼ tsp . each thyme, rosemary, marjoram, savory and sage
6 tbsp. wine vinegar
1 ¼ cup wine
1 lemon sliced thin and seeded

Rinse the salmon under cold water and pat dry with a towel. Cut into squares. Melt the butter in a pan, or heat the oil and saute the fish until it is cooked.

Heat the herbs, spices, vinegar and wine in a pot until it boils. Lower heat and cook for ten minutes.

Layer the salmon in a deep bowl and pour the hot marinade over the salmon. Arrange the lemon slices over the top, pushing a few down at the sides of the bowl. Cover and set aside until the marinade has cooled.

Refrigerate until needed. Serve cold with some of the marinade poured over it.

To Pickle Grapes The whole Body of Cookery Dissected, William Rabisha

To Pickle Grapes

Let not your grapes be fully ripe; their pickle is white wine and sugar

Interpreted Recipe

Pickled Grapes

2 pounds seedless grapes
1 1/2 cups water
2 cups white wine
½ tsp salt
1 cup sugar (or to taste)

Make syrup by combining sugar and water together and simmering until dissolved. Let cool.

Wash and dry the grapes, cutting into small bundles of grapes and removing bad grapes. Place grapes into sterilized jars filling them about ¾ full.

Add wine to syrup and fill each jar with liquid. Additional spices can be added at this point. Leave to steep, shaking jars once or twice a week.

Similar Recipe From Accomplish't Cook

To pickle Capers, Gooseberries, Barberries, red and white Currans. Pick them and put them in the juyce of crab-cherries, grape-verjuyce, or other verjuyce, and then barel them up.

Interpreted Recipe

2 pounds seedless grapes

2 cups verjuice (or apple cider vinegar)

1/2 cup water

*opt for modern taste up to 2 cups sugar

Wash grapes, and cut into small bunches. Combine verjuice, water and sugar and bring to a boil, put grapes into a clean and sterilized jar and pour the hot verjuice over them. Let sit until cool. Allow to marinate at least 24 hours, but longer is better.

Baronial 12th Night - Cheese & Nuts

Cheese & Nuts

While researching dietary theory, specifically 15th century England, and brainstorming ways that the theory could be applied to modern day feasts specifically for SCA events, I learned that it was customary to serve later in the meal ripened or hardened cheeses (especially after meat) and nuts (after fish). Since I had served both at this event, I put together a "dessert" plate of cheeses, dried fruits and nuts.

For the nuts I used a mixture of walnut, almond, hazel and pistachio nuts. The cheeses included mild cheddar in slices, white cheddar curds, gouda, blue cheese and brie. I also added dried fruit to the tray including raisins and currants mixed together, dried cherries, dried apricots, dates and figs.

Of Marche Violets - Mell Violatum (Voilet Honey), Oyl of Violets (Violet Oil), Vyolette (Violet Pottage), To Make Syrupe of Violets (Violet Syrup)

"Violets are God's apology for February..."

-Barbara Johnson

Family: Violaceae

Names: Violet, Sweete Violet, Viola nigra, Viola purpure, Virgil Vaccinium, Viola, Marche violet, Viola porporea,Viola mammola,Violetas,Violette de Mars, Blauw veiel, Mertzen violen, Violetten, Violaria, and Ma∣ter violarum.

Usage: Culinary, Medical

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Of Marche Violets. Chap. i. (A Nievve Herball, 1554)

❀ The Kyndes.

THere be two sortes of Violets: the garden and the wilde Violet. The Garden violets are of a fayre darke or shining deepe blewe colour, and a very pleasant and amiable smell. The wilde Violets are without sa∣uour, and of a fainte blewe or pale colour.
❀ The Description.

[ 1] The sweete Garden or Marche violet, creepeth alongst ye ground like the Strawberie plante, fa∣stening it selfe and taking roote in diuers places: his leaues be rounde and blackish like to Iuye leaues, sauing they be smal∣ler, rounder, and tenderer: emongst the whiche leaues there springeth vp fayre & pleasant floures of a darke blew colour, eache floure growing alone by him selfe, vpon a little small and tender stemme. The floures are diuided into fiue small leaues, wherof the middle of the floures, with the tippes or poynted endes of the leaues are speckled or spotted with a cer∣tayne reddish yellow. After the floures there appeareth round bullets, or huskes full of seede, the whiche being ripe do o∣pen and diuide themselues into three partes, the roote is tender & of threddish strings.
Of this sorte, there is an other kinde planted in gardens, whose floures are very double, and full of leaues.

There is also a thirde kinde, bearing floures as white as snow.

And also a fourth kinde (but not very common) whose floures be of a darke Crymsen, or old reddish purple colour, in all other poyntes like to the first, as in his leaues, seede, and growing.

[ 2] The wilde is like to the garden Violet, but that his leaues are far smaller, his floures are somwhat greater, but much paler, yea sometimes almost white, and without sauour.

❧ The Place.

The sweete garden Violet, groweth vnder hedges, and about the borders of fieldes and pastures, in good ground and fertyle soyle, and it is also set and planted in gardens. The wilde kinde whiche is without smell, groweth in the borders of dry, leane, and barren fieldes.

The garden violet floureth in Marche and Aprill. The wilde also doth floure in Aprill, and afterwardes.

❀ The Names.

The sweete Violet is called in Greeke 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: in Latine Viola nigra, Viola purpurea: & of Virgil Vaccinium: in Shoppes Viola: in English Violets, the garden Violet , the sweete ← Violet, and the Marche violet : in Italian Viola porporea, and Viola mammola: in Spanish Violetas: in Frenche Violette de Mars, ou de quaresme: in high Douch Blauw veiel, or Mertzen violen: in base Almaigne Violetten: the Violet plante or herbe is called in Shoppes Violaria, and Ma∣ter violarum.

❀ The cause of the Greeke name.

The sweete Violet(as the Emperour Constantine wryteth) was called in Greeke Ion, after the name of that sweete guirle or pleasant damosell Io, which Iupiter, after that he had gotte her with childe, turned her into a trim Heaf∣fer or gallant Cowe, bycause that his wife Iuno (beyng bothe an angry and Ielous Goddesse) should not suspect that he loued Ion. In the honour of which his Io, as also for her more delicate and holsome feeding, the earth at the commaundement of Iupiter brought foorth Violettes, the whiche after the name of his welbeloued Io, he called in Greeke Ion: and therefore they are al∣so called in Latine, as some do wryte, Violae, quasi vitulae & Vaccinia. Nican∣der wryteth, that the name of Ion was giuen vnto Violettes, bycause of the Nymphes of Ionia, who firste of all presented Iupiter with these kindes of floures.

❀ The Nature or Temperament.

Violets are colde in the first degree, and moyst in the second.

❀ The Vertues.

[ A] The Decoction of Violets is good against hoate feuers, and the inflamma∣tion of the Liuer, and all other inwarde partes, driuing forth by siege the hoate and cholerique humors. The like propertie hath the iuyce, syrupe, or conserue of the same.

[ B] The syrupe of Violets is good against the inflammation of the lunges and breast, and against the Pleurisie, and cough, and also against feuers or Agues, but especially in yong children.

[ C] The same Syrupe cureth all inflammations and roughnesse of the throte if it be much kept or often holden in the mouth. The sugar of violets, and also the conserue, and iuyce, bringeth the same to passe.

[ D] That yellow whiche is in the middest of the floures, boyled in water, is good to be gargled in the throte agaynst the squinancie or swelling in the throte: it is also good to be dronken agaynst the falling sickenesse in yong chil∣dren.

[ E] Violets pounde and layde to the head alone, or mengled with oyle, remo∣ueth the extreame heate, swageth head-ache, prouoketh sleepe, and moysteneth the brayne: it is good therefore against the drynesse of the head, against melan∣choly, and dulnesse or heauinesse of Spirite.

[ F] Violets brused or stamped with barlie meale, are good to be layde vpon phlegmons, that is to say, hoate unpostumes or carbuncles, and they heale the inflammation and paine of the eyes, also the hoate vlcers, and the inflammation that commeth with the falling downe of the fundament.

[ G] The seede of Violettes, dronken with wine or water, is good agaynst the stingings of Scorpions.

[ H] The herbe or plante is very good against hoate feuers, and the inflamma∣tions of the liuer, and looseth the belly.

[ I] The wilde Violets are almost of the same vertue, but they be a great deale weaker, and therefore they are not vsed in Medicine.

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A compendious treatise, of Nicholas Prepositas. (1588)

92 A confection of honny and violets, called Mell violatum.

TAke of the flowers of violets one part, of good honny thrée partes, séeth them with a soft fire.

This is a singular remedie in hote agues, because it maketh the body moist and also laxatius, it aswageth dri∣nes of the stomacke and the brest.

112 Oyle of Violets.

TAke of the oyle of oliues two lib. of young violets stam∣ped, foure ℥. put them into a glasse, and set them in the sunne the space of seuen daies, afterward boyle them in a double vessell the space of thrée houres, then straine them, and reserue them: Paulus AEgineta doth call this oyle Ia∣ton, and wryteth that it is made of the purple violets, or els of the yealow violets, which many iudge to be hearts ease, be willeth also that violets shall stand ten daies in the sunne, and to be thrée times changed, and the vessell to be so stopped that no ayre may enter in, and in the meane time, you may put vnto these, of dry violets.

This asswageth all inflamations in what part so euer they be, it mollyfieth exulcer ations and stiffenes of the breast and lungs, it mitigateth hot impostumes, and the plewrisie.

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Culpeper's School Of Physick, 1659

Of Almond Butter.

ALmond Butter is made with fine Sugar and Rose-water, eaten with the flowers of Violets, it is a commendable Dish, most in season in Lent, when the Violets are fragrant; it re∣joyceth the heart, comforts the brain, and quali∣fies the heat of the liver.

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An English Herbal, 1690

Violets grow in Gardens and wild, are under Venus, but very cooling and harmless; they abate Infections. The Syrup or Decoction of Root, Leaf, and Flower purge the Blood, Reins, Bladder, Matrix; Outwardly apply'd as a Poultice, it helpeth Headach, abates Swellings and Imposthumes: Inwardly taken, they open Obstructions of the Liver, cure Jaundice, hot Agues, and make a good Gargle for Mouth and Throat.

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Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) lxxxxj - Vyolette. Nym Almaunde Mylke, an flowre of Rys, and pouder Gyngere, Galyngale, Pepir, Datis, Fygys, and Rasonys y-corven, an coloure it with Safroun, an boyle it and make it chargeaunt; an whan thou dressyste, take the flowres, an hew hem, an styre it ther-with; nyme the braunchys with the flowres, an sette a-boue and serue it Forth.

91. Violet -take almond milk, and flower of rice, and powder ginger, galingale, pepper, dates, figs and raisons cut, and color it with saffron, and boil it and make it thick. And when you dress it, take the flowers and cut them, and stir it there-with; cut the branches with the flowers and set above and serve forth.

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - .Cxxv. Vyolette - Violet - Take Flourys of Vyolet, boyle hem, presse hem, bray hem smal, temper hem vppe with Almaunde mylke, or gode Cowe Mylke, a-lye it with Amyndoun or Flowre of Rys; take Sugre y-now, an putte ther-to, or hony in defaute; coloure it with the same that the flowrys be on y-peyntid a-boue.

125. Violet - Take flowers of violets, boil them, press them, cut them small, temper them up with almond milk or good cow milk, mix it with amyndoun or rice flour; take sugar enough, and put there-to, or honey in default; color it with the same that the flowers be on painted above.

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To Make Syrupe of Violets.

Take your Violets, and pick the flowers, and weigh them, and then put them into a quart of water, and steepe them vpon hot embers, vntill such time as the flowers be turned white, and the water as blew as any violet, then take to that quart of infusion and take foure pound of clarified Suger, & boyle it till it come to a syrupe, scumming them and boyling them vpon a gentle fire, least it turne his colour, and being boyled, put the Syrupe vp and keepe it.

A Closet for Ladies and Gentlevvomen, 1608

Sources

Homemade Vegetable stock, Vegetable Stock Powder & Homemade Bouillon Cubes

I am not sure about you, but for myself, I worry about my budget when I am cooking and -any- place I can cut corners I do. I am constantly looking for what I like to call 'found foods'. Items that make something from what would otherwise be nothing. Stocks are one of those items. They add flavor to your dishes and can be quite costly, or salty or may contain items that were not found in period if you choose to purchase them. In order to shave the cost off my budget, and to ensure that I know what I am serving, I make a lot of my own stocks, powders and bouillon cubes which make use of items I have already purchased, but would otherwise throw away--it's a win-win.

Outlined below will be the instructions for homemade vegetable stock powder which can travel with you and can be used to add additional flavor to any dish. It does not require refridgeration so it is a perfect "camp food". You will also find instructions for making vegetable stock, meat stock and homemade bouillon. Bouillon requires refridgeration but it is a flavor BOMB and is another item I consider a necessary food to take on camping trips.

Vegetable Stock Powder

1 unpeeled carrot
2 celery stalks
1 onion
1 leek
2-3 cloves of garlic
a handful of parsley
2-3 sprigs of thyme
1 -2 sprigs of rosemary
Salt

Opt: Other vegetables or herbs as desired

Wash your vegetables and herbs and then run through the food processor--you want them to be very finely chopped if you do not have a food processor. Before cooking them you will want to weigh them. Your salt content should be approximately 20% of the total weight of your vegetables. If you have 16 ounces of vegetables, pre-cooked weight you will want to add about 3 ounces of salt. I prefer sea salt.

Mix thoroughly and place your vegetables into a pot over low heat. Cook about two hours. Stir occasionally. You will notice at first the mix can get quite soupy as the vegetables release their water. Don't worry, the vegetables will reabsorb the water. When the water has been completely reabsorbed you can move onto the next step.

Spread the vegetables onto a parchment lined baking tray. Bake at the lowest setting in your oven (mine is 170), until the vegetables have dried out and become crispy. You will want to stir them every so often while they dry in the oven. Allow them to cool and then process in your food processor until the vegetables become a powder. You can store the powder for about three months in an airtight jar.

To use: add 1 tsp of powder to 1 cup of water, or to taste.

Vegetable Stock

Have tired vegetables in your drawers? Vegetable peels? Don't throw them out. Save them in the freezer and when you have some time, use them to make vegetable stock. This is an easy and cost effective way to use up vegetables and vegetable parts (carrot peels, onion tops, celery leaves and the white woody ends, etc.) you would otherwise throw away. Your feast budget will thank you. If you are making a vegetable stock be sure to include mushrooms, tomatoes (if not cooking period) or nori--do not skip this. These vegetables create "umami", a savory or meaty flavor to your stock which is very much needed in vegetable stock.

For the most basic of stocks you will need carrots, celery and onions (leave the skins on; it turns the broth brown), but don't stop there, you can add flavor with tomato or mushrooms, leeks, beets (it creates a lovely red broth), asparagus, squash, fennel, eggplant etc. There are a few vegetables that you may not want to use, or use sparingly, cabbage being one. The others include turnips, rutabega, artichoke, cauliflower and broccoli. I personally enjoy the "bitter" notes that the cabbage and turnips add to a long-cooked broth, but I caution you to use your best judgement. Also--it should go without saying, if the vegetables go beyond tired to spoiled, rotten or moldy--don't use them.

The process is simple, and requires just a little bit of elbow grease and time.

To begin, saute your sturdier vegetables in the barest bit of oil until tender. Cover with water, add any seasoning you wish (salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary, thyme, savory, etc.), bring to a boil, cover with a lid and lower to simmer--walk away and forget it for at least an hour. An hour is absolute minimum to make any stock--the longer the simmer, the more flavor you get. Near the end of the cooking process you are going to want to taste for salt and flavor. If it's lacking, you can add tomato paste (if you are not cooking a period dish) or nutritional yeast (for a cheesy, umami flavor). Turn off, let cool, strain, and store. Vegetable stock will keep approximately five days in a fridge, or nearly forever frozen.

Homemade Bouillon

Bouillon is a fancy name for broth. There was a time that I would reach for the cubes in order to flavor stocks, broths, gravies and other dishes. Unfortunately, they are full of salt, MSG and other things, such as hydrogenated oils, that I just don't want to share with those I love when an alternative is available.

The first thing you should notice is that this is more of a method, than it is a recipe and it should start with -any- homemade stock; beef, chicken, pork, mixed or vegetable. It takes the process of making stock one step further to create a flavor bomb. Follow the instructions below to get you started on this adventure.

To Make Stock

Making your own stocks are very cost effective for feasts, so save your bones and your scraps of veggies! Just toss them in a ziplock bag in the freezer until you have enough to make a good stock. Make your stock and can or freeze until needed.

There are two separate ways to make stock. The first is on the stove top/slow cooker and the second is in your oven. For any stock you will need bones (preferably some with meat), vegetables, aromatics, water and time--lots and lots of time.

I prefer to roast my bones before making any meat stock which adds an additional flavor component. Simply place your bones in a baking dish and roast in a 400 degree oven for approximately 45 minutes. If the bones were frozen, you will want to thaw them before you roast. Marrow bones really benefit from this step, developing a deep, rich flavor while they roast. DO NOT skip this step.

A good stock will -always- start with cold water. During the initial boiling of the stock--skim, skim, skim. You want to remove any and all impurities that come to the surface. After the initial boiling, lower your temperature to a simmer, cover with a lid slightly askew and forget it. I know you will be tempted (I know I am) but *never, ever!* stir the stock once you set it to simmering. This will make it cloudy and a sign of a good stock is that it should be clear and richly colored at the end of the process.

A really good meat stock will convert to a gelatin when cold. This happens because the collagen in the bones dissolves which can only happen during a very long simmering process. A good stock has a deep, well-developed flavor that is imparted through the aromatics and vegetables. The longer your stock cooks the better it is.

My basic veggie blend for any stock includes a couple of carrots, celery and onions. For seasoning, I also use parsley, rosemary, thyme, bay, garlic and black pepper. Wash your vegetables, roughly chop and make a bed of them for your roasted bones. There is no need to peel, unless the skin has been damaged in some way.

Stovetop Method

A good rule of thumb to remember is that for every pound of bones you will need approximately 2 quarts of water. When making stock, be sure that the bones are covered by at least an inch. Add your aromatics, bring to a boil, skim off the scum and then lower the heat and simmer. Simmer times vary but I prefer about five hours for most stocks. Use your best judgment.

Oven Method

Stock will cook overnight in a 275 degree oven. This is a great method to use and I use it quite often. I just tuck the bones, vegetables and water into a roasting pan (usually the one I roast the bones in so I can get all the great flavor from the bottom of the pan) and go to bed. In the morning I have a lovely stock.

Once you have finished cooking your stock, strain it at least once to make sure that you are removing all the bits. I do this by lining a wire strainer with a piece of muslin and pouring the stock through it. Allow your stock to cool overnight. Once the stock has cooled remove the fat, reheat and strain it once again just to make sure that it is very clear.

To Make Bouillon

Once your stock has been made, skimmed and strained, you can begin the method of reducing the stock to its own concentrated bouillon. This is especially useful if space is an issue. One gallon of stock will reduce to about 1 cup (yes, 1 cup!) of liquid bouillon.

Return your stock to a pot and bring to a fast boil, then lower to simmer and cook till the stock has reduced by half. This will prevent the stock from over-reducing and burning. You will know that your stock has reduced enough when it has thickened to a sauce that will coat the back of a spoon, has the consistency of a syrup, is lush, glossy and rich! It should be a bit runny with some weight to it.

To set your bouillon, line an 8x8 or 8x13 pan, or an ice cube tray (depending on the amount of stock you have) with plastic wrap and pour the cooled sauce into it and refridgerate overnight. To store, cut your bouillon into squares and place in small jars or Ziplock bags. They will store two months in the fridge or up to a year in the freezer.

To use, approximate measure is 1 tsp per cup of water.

Purslane - Recipe: To Pickle Purslain

Common Purslane - Portulaca oleracea

Family: Portulacaceae
Names: Purslane, Pusley, Pursley, Pigweed, Little Hogweed, Hogweed, Purslain, Garden Purslain, Red Root, Verdolaga, Wild Portulaca, Khorfeh, Duckweed, Purcelaine, Procelayne (Grete Herballe, 1516), Pourpier

Usage: Culinary, Medical

De portulace. Porcelayne / Ca. CCC.xl. (Grete Herballe, 1526)

POrtulax is a vertuous herbe. It coldeth in ye thyrde degre and moy∣steth in the secōde / and hath vertu to softē and to kele. It is good meate for coleryke folkes that be dyseased with feuers caused of coler. And also for them that be hole / yf it be eaten rawe it is profytable. The wa¦ter of the decoccyon is good to conserue the heate of the inwarde membres. It coleth the heet of feuers / it prouoketh vryne and vnbyndeth ye bely. It prouffyteth agaynst clyftes of the lyppes and fleyenges of the mouthe. Brenne the rote therof in a bras∣sen vessell and make powdre confyct with hony / and anoynte the lyppes therwith / & also it paleth the synsures of lazers anoyn∣ted therwith.

¶ For hote apostumes: A

¶ And yf it be brayed with vyneygre it is good agaynst hote apostumes. The iuce therof with all the herbe is prouffytable agaynst the hurtes of the bowelles / for it soupleth them. And is good to moderate ye vnmoderate flux of the matryce. Howbeit yf it be vsed to moche it marreth the syght and coleth the body / & letteth the coleryke vomyte / and habytacyon of woman. The sayd herbe chawed with a lytell vyneygre stoppeth the bledynge at the nose / and swa¦geth the brennynge of the stomake caused of coler. It is good agaynst feuers yf a playster therof be layde to the stomake wt a lytell vyneygre. It healeth ye tothe ache yf it be chawed / and healeth blaynes yf it be brused and layde theron.

¶ For payne of the reynes. B

¶ The iuce therof is good agaynst payne of the reynes and of the bladder / & restray¦neth the floures or menstrues in women. Water therof is good for bledynge emor∣roydes.

The sea Purcelayne flowreth in Iuly. (A Nievve Herball, 1554)

The Names.

Purcelayne is called in Greke 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: in Latine and in shoppes Portulaca: in Frenche, Pourpier → , or Pourcelaine: in high Douche, Burgel: in base Almaigne, Porceleyne: in English, Purcelayne.

[ 1] The first kinde is called Portulaca satiua, or Hortensis: in Frenche, ← Pourpier → , or Pourcelaine domestique, or cultinée: in high Douche, Heymisch Burgel, or Burtzes∣kraut: in base Almaigne, Roomsche Porceleyne, or tamme Porceleyne: in En∣glish, garden and tame Purcelayne.

[ 2] The seconde kinde is called of the newe writers, Portulaca syluestris: in Frenche, ← Pourpier sauuage: in high Douche, Wildt Burtzel: in base Almaigne, Ghemeyne, or wilde Porceleyne: in English, Wild Purcelayne: but yet this is not that wild Purcelayne, which is described in some copies of Dioscorides, the which is of a hoate nature or complexion.

[ 3] The thirde kinde of Purcelayne of the later writers, is called Portulaca ma∣rina: in Frenche, Pourcelaine de mer▪ in Douch, Zee Porceleyne. This seemeth to be that herbe which the Greekes call 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: the Latinistes, Halimus, especially the seconde kinde described by Plinie.

❀ The Nature.

[ 1.2] The garden and wilde Purcelayne are cold in the thirde degree, and moyst in the seconde.

[ 3] Sea Purcelayne is playnely hoate and drie in the seconde degree.

❀ The Vertues.

[ A] They vse to eate the garden and wild Purcelayne in Salades and meates, as they do Letuce, but it cooleth the blood, and maketh it waterie & nourisheth very litle: yet for all that, it is good for those that haue great heate in their sto∣mackes and inwarde partes.

[ B] The same taken in lyke sort, stoppeth all defluxions and falling downe of humours, and is good for the paynes of the bladder and kidneyes, & it healeth them, albeit they be exulcerated, fret or hurt.

[ C] Purcelayne comforteth the weake inflamed stomacke, & it taketh away the imaginations, dreames, fansies, & the outragious desire to the lust of the body.

[ D] The iuyce of Purcelayne dronken hath the same vertue: also it is good a∣gainst burning feuers, & against the wormes that ingender in the body of man.

[ E] It is good for such as spit blood, it stoppeth the blooddy flixe, the fluxe of the Hemoroides, & al issues of blood. It hath the like vertue being boyled & eaten.

[ F] The iuyce of Purcelayne powred vpon the head with oyle & vineger roset, swageth the head ache comming of heate, or of standing to long in the Sonne.

[ G] The same throwen vp into the mother or matrix, helpeth the burning in∣flammations, exulceratiōs, or gnawing frettings in the same, & powred in by a glister, it is good against the flixe of the guttes & exulceration of the bowelles.

[ H] The leaues of Purcelayne mingled with parched barley meale, and layde to the inflammations of the eyes, easeth the same, and taketh away the hoate swelling: so it is likewise good against S. Antonies fier, called Erysipelas: a∣gainst the heate and payne of the head, and against all hoate inflammations and tumours.

[ I] The same eaten rawe, are good against the teeth being set on edge, or asto∣nied, and it fasteneth them that be loose.

[ K] To conclude, Purcelayne cooleth all that is hoate, wherefore being layde vpon woundes, eyther by it selfe or with the meale of parched barley, it preser∣ueth woundes from inflammation.

[ L] The seede of Purcelayne beyng taken, kylleth and driueth foorth wormes, and stoppeth the laske.

[ M] The Sea Purcelayne is gathered in the sommer, and is of some preserued and kept in vineger for Salade, to be eaten at winter like Capers: for being so eaten, it doth heate and comfort the stomacke, causeth good appetite, or meate lust, and prouoketh vrine.

[ N] If this Purcelayne be Halimus, the roote thereof is good against crampes and drawing awry of sinewes, burstinges and gnawinges in the belly, to be taken in Meade the waight of a dramme. It also causeth Nurses to haue store of milke.

Of white Beets and Purslane. (Culpeper's School Of Physick, 1659)

WHite Beets are good for the Liver and for the Spleen, are abstercine. Pur∣slane doth abate the ardor of lasciviousness, and mittigates heat in the inward parts of the head and eyes: if preserved in brine, it heats and purges the stomach; it is cold in the third de∣gree, and moist in the second.

Kit-keys, Crucifex, Pease or Purslane pickled. (The Compleat Cook, 1664)

Take any of the aforesaid, and lay them in as much Wine as Water, with a little Salt, then boil them after this, put them in∣to a Pot, and cover them with Vinegar made of White wine.

Purslain pickled. (The English And French Cook, 1674)

Gather them at their full growth, but not too old, parboil them and keep them in
White wine Vinegar and Sugar.

To pickle Pursla•e to keep all the year. (The Cook's Guide, 1664)

TAke the biggest stalks picked clean, the• strew bay-salt first into your pot, and then th• stalks of Purslane, and then salt again, so do ti•l your pot be full, then tye it up close and keep it cool.

Interpreted Recipe (adapted from modern recipe)

Purslane
1 cup Vinegar (apple cider preferred)
1/2 cup water
2 tbsp. sugar or honey
Modern recipes add 1 onion sliced, 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. each cumin, coriander and mustard seeds, and three whole allspice.
Use only the thickest part of the purslane stems- Wash the purslane. Pinch off the clusters of leaves and any stems that are too skinny to pickle (these are great added to soup as a nautral thickener or on salad).
Chop the thicker purslane stems into pieces approximately 1 1/2-2 inches long.
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar or honey, salt and spices in a medium pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes to release the flavors of the spices.
If you are following the modern version, layer purslane and onions and brine in jars, until you are unable to add more. Pour the hot brine over the purslane stems. The liquid should completely cover them, but still, have at least 1/2 an inch of space between the surface of the brine and the rims of the jars.
Screw on the lids, hot water bath them. Let sit at least a week, but the longer the better.

Sources

Dodoens 1517-1585., R., 2020. A Nievve Herball, Or Historie Of Plantes Wherin Is Contayned The Vvhole Discourse And Perfect Description Of All Sortes Of Herbes And Plantes: Their Diuers [And] Sundry Kindes: Their Straunge Figures, Fashions, And Shapes: Their Names, Natures, Operations, And Vertues: And That Not Onely Of Those Whiche Are Here Growyng In This Our Countrie Of Englande, But Of All Others Also Of Forrayne Realmes, Commonly Vsed In Physicke. First Set Foorth In The Doutche Or Almaigne Tongue, By That Learned D. Rembert Dodoens, Physition To The Emperour: And Nowe First Translated Out Of French Into English, By Henry Lyte Esquyer.. [online] Available at: <http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A20579.0001.001> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. 2011. The Grete Herball Whiche Geueth Parfyt Knowlege And Vnderstandyng Of All Maner Of Herbes [And] There Gracyous Vertues Whiche God Hath Ordeyned For Our Prosperous Welfare And Helth, For They Hele [And] Cure All Maner Of Dyseases And Sekenesses That Fall Or Mysfortune To All Maner Of Creatoures Of God Created, Practysed By Many Expert And Wyse Maysters, As Auicenna [And] Other. [Et]C. Also It Geueth Full Parfyte Vnderstandynge Of The Booke Lately Prentyd By Me (Peter Treueris) Named The Noble Experiens Of The Vertuous Handwarke Of Surgery.. [online] Available at: <http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A03048.0001.001> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Quod.lib.umich.edu. 2020. Culpeper's School Of Physick, Or, The Experimental Practice Of The Whole Art Wherein Are Contained All Inward Diseases From The Head To The Foot, With Their Proper And Effectuall Cures, Such Diet Set Down As Ought To Be Observed In Sickness Or In Health : With Other Safe Wayes For Preserving Of Life ... / By Nich. Culpeper ... ; The Narrative Of The Authors Life Is Prefixed, With His Nativity Calculated, Together With The Testimony Of His Late Wife, Mrs Alice Culpeper, And Others.. [online] Available at: <https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A35394.0001.001/1:37?rgn=div1;submit=Go;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=purslane> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Quod.lib.umich.edu. 2020. The Compleat Cook: Or, The Whole Art Of Cookery Describing The Best And Newest Ways Of Ordering And Dressing All Sorts Of Flesh, Fish, And Fowl, Whether Boiled, Baked, Stewed, Roasted, Broiled, Frigacied, Fryed, Souc'd, Marrinated, Or Pickled; With Their Proper Sauces And Garnishes. Together Vvith All Manner Of The Most Approved Soops And Potages Used, Either In England Or France. By T.P. J.P. R.C. N.B. And Several Other Approved Cooks Of London And Westminster.. [online] Available at: <https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A80288.0001.001/1:3?rgn=div1;submit=Go;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=Purslane> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Quod.lib.umich.edu. 2020. The English And French Cook Describing The Best And Newest Ways Of Ordering And Dressing All Sorts Of Flesh, Fish And Fowl, Whether Boiled, Baked, Stewed, Roasted, Broiled, Frigassied, Fryed, Souc'd, Marrinated, Or Pickled; With Their Proper Sauces And Garnishes: Together With All Manner Of The Most Approved Soops And Potages Used, Either In England Or France. By T. P. J. P. R. C. N. B. And Several Other Approved Cooks Of London And Westminster.. [online] Available at: <https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A53974.0001.001/1:3.11.35?c=eebo;c=eebo2;g=eebogroup;rgn=div3;view=fulltext;xc=1;q1=cookbook> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Quod.lib.umich.edu. 2020. The Cook's Guide: Or, Rare Receipts For Cookery Published And Set Forth Particularly For Ladies And Gentlwomen; Being Very Beneficial For All Those That Desire The True Way Of Dressing Of All Sorts Of Flesh, Fowles, And Fish; The Best Directions For All Manner Of Kickshaws, And The Most Ho-Good Sawces: Whereby Noble Persons And Others In Their Hospitalities May Be Gratified In Their Gusto's. Never Before Printed. By Hannah Wolley.. [online] Available at: <https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo/A66843.0001.001/1:6.2?g=eebogroup;rgn=div2;submit=Go;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;xc=1;q1=purslane> [Accessed 4 August 2020].

Five Simple and Delicious Medieval Vegetable Dishes

Positive responses continue to pour in on these kinds of posts. Today I thought I would bring to your attention five very different vegetable dishes that were enjoyed in the late Medieval period. I hope you try them and let me know how you liked them.

Simply click the link to be taken to the page to find the recipe. Please leave me a message and let me know if you would like to see more posts like this.

Thank you!

.xxx. Soupes dorroy. (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430)) Soup Dorroy - A delicious twist on "creamed" onion soup. The onions when cooked with the wine take on a very fruity flavor, and the almond milk adds creaminess in the background that tempers the sweet fruity taste of the onions. A budget friendly, easy to cook, tasty dish that would not be amiss at a luncheon, tavern, feast or camp meal.

.v. Whyte wortes. (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - Creamed Wortes - A true comfort dish from Harleian MS 279 (~1430) -- Tender cabbage and kale, or other "worts" (mustards, kale, collards (known to the Greeks and Romans), kohlrabi (first described in Europe in 1554), broccoli (known to Greeks and Romans), cauliflower (sixth century), rapini (aka broccoli rabe, known to the Romans), and turnips) creamed with almond milk thickened with rice flour, flavored with saffron, salt and a touch of honey. A dish that is as delicious as it is beautiful to look at!

Compost (The Forme of Cury, c. 1390)- despite its name this recipe creates a lovely mustardy, sweet and spicy variety of pickled vegetables that are as delicious as they are pretty to look at. This recipe comes courtesy of Daniel Myers who hosts the excellent site Medieval Cookery (if you have not visited this site I urge you to do so). These pickles were served as part of the Curia Regis Brunch.

Canabenys with Lekys- Dried Beans with Leeks - Constance Hieatt "Ordinance of Pottage"-a thick, flavorful medieval soup made with dried beans (preferably fava, broad or black-eyed peas), cannelini or navy beans, leeks and/or, onions flavored with sausage and fortified with a handful of leafy greens. Great for SCA lunch or feast or an easy period camp meal. Can be made vegetarian by substituting vegetable broth and vegetarian sausage.

.Cxlv. Blaunche Perreye. White Pea Soup (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430)) Very simple and humble ingredients come together to make great flavors in this 15th Century soup for a king.

Bonus: .iij. Joutes. - Braised Spring Greens with Bacon

Compost (The Forme of Cury, c. 1390)

A beautiful dish of Compost--a variety of pickled vegetables

Compost is a delicious medley of sweet, sour and mustardy pickled vegetables. This recipe comes courtesy of Daniel Myers from his excellent website Medieval Cookery. If you have not visited this website I strongly encourage you to do so!

Compost (The Forme of Cury, c. 1390) Take rote of parsel. pasternak of rasenns. scrape hem waisthe hem clene. take rapes & caboches ypared and icorne. take an erthen panne with clene water & set it on the fire. cast all þise þerinne. whan þey buth boiled cast þerto peeres & parboile hem wel. take þise thynges up & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do þerto salt whan it is colde in a vessel take vineger & powdour & safroun & do þerto. & lat alle þise thinges lye þerin al nyzt oþer al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togider lumbarde mustard & raisouns corance al hool. & grynde powdour of canel powdour douce. & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle þise thynges & cast togyder in a pot of erthe. and take þerof whan þou wilt & serue forth.

-Recipe Courtesy of Daniel Myers

3 parsley roots
3 parsnips
3 carrots
10 radishes
2 turnips
1 small cabbage
1 pear
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup vinegar
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 pinch saffron, ground
1 cup greek wine (sweet Marsala) <--I used white wine
1/2 cup honey
1 Tbsp. mustard <--I used a sweet and spicy mustard purchased at the local farmers market
1/2 cup currants (zante raisins)
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. Powder Douce
1 tsp. anise seed
1 tsp. fennel seed

Peel vegetables and chop them into bite-sized pieces. Parboil them until just tender, adding pears about halfway through cooking time. Remove from water, place on towel, sprinkle with salt, and allow to cool. Then put vegetables in large bowl and add pepper, saffron, and vinegar. Refrigerate for several hours. Then put wine and honey into a saucepan, bring to a boil, and then simmer for several minutes, removing any scum that forms on the surface. Let cool and add currants and remaining spices. Mix well and pour over vegetables. Serve cold.

Rose Conserve - The Queen-like Closet (1675)

Old Fashioned Rose Petal Jam

Conserve? Jam? Jelly? Marmalade? Cake? Paste? Compote? Butters? Curds? What are they? Before electricity and the advent of modern day refridgeration and freezing food preservation was an art. It still is, don't get me wrong, but think about it. Living seasonally has made me much more aware of how necessary it was to carefully preserve summer and fall bounties to make it through the leaner winters and springs. I can't go into my garden and pick a quart of fresh strawberries in winter, but I might be able to go into my cellar and bring up cabbages, turnips, apples or a winter squash. Our ancestors were geniuses! They had to be. Many of us would be lost if we had to survive without electricity or refridgeration for more then a few days. they lived their lifetimes without it.

Sugaring is a method of food preservation, along with smoking, salting, drying and pickling. I have become fascinated with the way sugar was employed in the diet of our ancestors. It was thought to be a medicine so I can't help but thing that the copious amounts that were used in cooking was medicinal as well as functional for flavor. It's a fascinating part of food history with a wide variety of methods employed to create the final product. The Food History Timeline offers this quote to support the long history of preserving food with honey or sugar:

"The earliest kind of jam making...dates back to pre-Roman times, when fruit pulp was mixed with honey and spices and dried in the sun. In the first century AD, Greeks made a preserve, using their abundant crops of quinces, by stuffing pieces of peeled and pipped raw fruit tightly into jars filled with honey. After a year the fruit became soft as wine-honey'. This Greek quince preserve was called melomeli' (apple: melo, in honey: meli). The Romans later reversed the words into melimela' and improved the preserve by cooking the fruit in the honey with pepper and spices and sealing the jars to make them airtight. Quinces had a high pectin content so that when cooked, preserves made with them would have had a very solid texture. Pectin is a vital ingredient for successful jelly and jam making... By the 17th century...cane sugar was more readily available, and preserving fruit with sugar became an affordable option. Recipes that previously used honey were easily adapted...The English had their own particular version that included pieces of warden pear, but seemed to prefer the Portuguese quince preserve. Using their sugar from India and their abundance of quinces, the Portuguese had developed their own specialty, which they called marmelada' (like the Roman melimela')...As early as the sixteenth century, little chests of marmelada were included in the cargoes of Portuguese merchant ships arriving in English ports. Gradually the same process was applied to other fruits, which then came to be known as a marmalade' of pears, damsons, or plums..." ---Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving Changed the World, Sue Shepard, chapter on sugar (p. 163-174)

The main differences when discussing the different ways to preserve with sugar are the methods used to incorporate the sugar, the kind of fruit used, the size of the fruit, the addition of additional ingredients (booze, spices, nuts, additional fruit) and the proportion of sugar to fruit. Some of the methods we will discuss today were used in period, others (such as fruit curds) would not have been available.

Preserve is a "catch all" word but when referring to sugaring as a method of preservation, fruit preserves are whole or pieces of fruit suspended in a jelly or a syrup. Preserves may or may not include additional spices, alcohol, acids or pectin. A great example of a period fruit preserve is .x. Wardonys in syryp which creates pears that have preserved in a syrup flavored with red wine, sugar, vinegar, ginger and saffron.

What is a conserve? Conserves are a jam which is made up of fruit, or in this case flower petals, mixed with sugar and sometimes other things such as nuts or spices. They can be referred to as "posh jams" and have a consistency that is softer then jam and very spreadable.

If a conserve is a jam, what is a jam? Great question! Jam's consist of a fruit (or flower petal) that has been chopped, crushed, mashed into small pieces and cooked with sugar until it gels. Sometimes additional pectin or an acid of some kind is added to the jam.

Jellies are a mixture of fruit (or petals) and sugar which has been cooked then strained so that the juice becomes the primary ingredient. By definition jellies should be clear without added fruit or spices.

Marmalades are specifically any citrus fruit that has been chopped and then preserved with sugar. The fruit is peeled and the peeled is cooked for a long, slow period of time to soften it before the sugar is added. Ideally a marmalade will be between the consistency of jam and jelly and consist of peices of the peel suspended in a clear jelly. The word marmalade dates back to the Greek melimēlon, which refers to quince stored in honey. My interpretation of Hannah Wooley's orange marmalade can be found here: The Queen-like Closet (1675) - LXXXVI. To make the best Orange Marmalade. - Orange Marmalade. Another more time consuming example of a marmalade is Sir Hugh Platt's To preserve Oranges, after the Portugal fashion which creates an orange marmalade inside of a whole preserved orange peel.

A "cake" consists of fruit and sugar that has been cooked, pureed and then dried and I believe is the grandfather of our modern day gummy candies or fruit rollups dependant upon how thick you make your sheets and how long you allow them to dry. A good example of this kind of recipe is my interpretation of Hannah Wooley's dried peaches.

Fruit pastes consists of fruit and sugar, sometimes spices that have been cooked over low heat for a very long period of time until they become concentrated in their flavors. They are then spread onto a tray or a sheet similar to the method you would use for the "cakes" and then dried in an oven. I recently published my interpretation of Sir Hugh Platt's To Make Quidinia of Quinces (Delights for Ladies, Sir Hugh Platt, 1600) which makes a beautiful fruit paste of quince.

Compotes may contain fresh or dried fruit, whole or in pieces and other ingredients that have been cooked in a sugar syrup that may be fortified with liquor or spices and cooked slowly to allow the fruit to keep it's shape. While conserves or jams may be saved for later, compotes are most normally used right away. If that were not confusing enough a coulis is basically a compote that has been pureed to a smooth consistency.

Fruit butters are cooked fruit which has been pureed until smooth and then added to sugar and heated gently until the fruit darkens. They are not cooked until they jelly, but rely on the high pectin content of the fruit to create thickness. They have a much lower sugar content then jams, conserves or jellies. According to the FDA, fruit butter can only be made and labeled such from eight fruits; apples, apricots, grapes, peaches, pears, plums, prunes, and quince.

Curds are a mixture of fruit, sugar, butter and eggs that have been cooked together to form a smooth creamy spread that *must be refridgerated* in order to keep.

The queen-like closet; or, Rich cabinet stored with all manner of rare receipts for preserving, candying & cookery. Very pleasant and beneficial to all ingenious persons of the female sex. By Hannah Wolley offers this fascinating recipe for a conserve of roses that I had to try. I find it delicious but it is one of those things that you will either like or not like. I like to serve mine over ice cream or on bread. The most common rose used was the apothocary rose, or Rosa gallica officinalis, prized for its scent. This rose is believed to have originated in Persia and legend has it that the rose received it's color from a nightingale who so loved the white rose that it grasped it tightly, the thorn piercing the nightingale and that it was the nightingales blood that turned the white rose red. Thus the rose also became known as the Dasmask rose. Whatever it's origins, it is known that the rose was brought to England with the return of the crusade knights sometime in the 12th or 13th century.

LXXXVIII. To make Conserve of red Roses.

Take their Buds and clip off the Whites, then take three times their weight in sugar double refin'd; beat the Roses well in a Mor∣tar, then put in the sugar by little & little, and when you find it well incorporated, put it into Gally Pots, and cover it with sugar, and so it will keep seven years.

Recipe

1 part very fragrant rose petals
3 parts sugar

Fortunately for us we do not need to use a mortar. Do be sure to clean your roses very well. I usually pick mine in the morning, wash them very quickly with water and remove the petals and then store them in the refridgerator overnight. I do this to humanely kill any pests that chose to cling to the petals. Sorry guys :-( The next day I gently rinse them again and dry them on a towel, clip off the bitter white end of the petal and then place it and the sugar into my blender and blend until well blended. At this point I put it into jelly jars and store in my fridge.

While I would have LOVED to have shown you a picture of this, I only had enough conserve to make 2 pint jars both of which have been consumed. So you get a *bonus* recipe--Rose petal jam. For those who you didn't know, my rose bushes were very hard hit a few years ago in winter and many of them died. I am slowly replacing them, but my rose yields are still somewhat small. Early in the year I had enough roses to make the conserve. However, in the second blooming I had enough petals to make rose petal jam, something I intend to give away as a gift this year along with violet syrup.

Old Fashioned Rose Petal Jam Makes about 3 pints

1 1/2 cups water (I used bottled)
Approximately 2 cups (more is better) lightly packed fragrant rose petals (alternatively you could use dried petals keeping in mind that 1/3 cup dried is equal to 1 cup fresh just be sure what you use is *food grade*)
2 cups sugar
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp pectin (as an alternative you could cook 1 green apple with your rose petals skin, pips and all. The apple should contain enough pectin to make thicken to jelly. I chose the pectin)

Bring roses and water to a simmer in a sauce pan and simmer for about ten minutes. Add 1 3/4 cup of sugar and stir until dissolved. Do not be disappointed that the color is not what you would want, the brilliant red color will come when you do the next step--it's magic! Add lemon juice and watch the magic happen. Simme for another ten minutes or so. While it is simmering add pectin to remaining sugar and stir to prevent clumping when you add the remaining sugar and pectin to your jam. Do so a spoonful at a time making sure that it is well incorporated before adding the next spoonful. Cook for another 20 minutes or so and then remove it from the stone and put into your jars. It will seem very loose--but do not worry as it cools it will set. This is best used in two months or, go ahead and process through canning for longer term storage.

I hope you enjoy this unusual and tasty treat as much as I do.

Gallipot ~1650

To Make Quidinia of Quinces (Delights for Ladies, Sir Hugh Platt, 1600)

Dry Peaches and Red Quince Paste Served at Curia Regis 9/10/2017

My adventures in making fruit pastes began in late 2014 when I started experimenting with Quince. At the time I was just beginning to find a passion for Medieval confectionary and that has grown as I have branched out to make additional fruit pastes, comfits, and candied fruit and preserve flowers and other assorted "Elizabethan Banqueting" dishes.

I have experimented with making golden quince paste and red quince paste. I have a confession to make; I don't particularly care for the flavor of quince. So this particular paste was made with mostly quince, but I did at two apples and two pears to it to up the flavor a little bit. When I make my fruit pastes I do make them in very large batches and store them in my fridge to give away as gifts or use in feasts throughout the year. When I was asked to cook for the Curia Regis brunch I knew that one of the items I was going to feature was quince paste. I had several large sheets that I had previously made. One I cut into a dragon and gilded, letting the kids and their friends enjoy the cut outs from the sheet of paste and it was gone very quickly! The other I cut into squares and served either sugared or plain. The picture above shows plain paste without additional sugar.

I was astonished while shopping for this brunch to discover that in my area a quarter pound of any fruit paste is sold by a large grocery chain for $6.00!! Folks, you don't need to pay that much for it - make your own! But this discovery has prompted me to examine a little bit more closely the probability of setting up a booth at a local farmers market next year for some extra income...shhhh!

Delights for Ladies (Sir Hugh Platt, 1600) 28. To Make Quidinia of Quinces - Take the kernells out of eight great Quinces, and boile them in a quart of spring water, till it come to a pinte, then put into it a quarter of a pinte of Rosewater, and one pound of fine Sugar, and so let it boile till you see it come to bee of a deepe colour: then take a drop, and drop it on the bottome of a sawcer, then let it run through a gelly bagge into a bason, then set it in your bason upon a chafing dish of coles to keep it warm, then take a spoone, and fill your boxes as full as you please, and when they be colde cover them: and if you please to printe it in moldes, you must have moldes made to the bigness of your boxe, and wet your moldes with Rosewater, and so let it run into your mold, and when it is colde turne it off into your boxes. If you wette your moldes with water, your gelly will fall out of them.

Recipe

2 to 2 1/2 pounds of quinces (I also used apples and pears)

Water to cover the fruit

2-3 cups (or more) of sugar

Wash, peel and core your fruit, wrap the peels and the cores of the fruit into cheesecloth. You will be adding this to the pan of your fruit because that is where some of the color and pectin will be coming from. Coarsely chop the fruit and place it and the cheesecloth wrapped discards into the pan and bring to a boil. Allow the fruit to cook until it is very soft. Remove the discards and place the fruit into a food processor and puree. Alternatively you could push it through a fine grained sieve or use a ricer or food mill.

You do want to make sure that your pulp is strained through a sieve back into the pot to remove any large lumps that might not have been caught. The finer the pulp the smoother the fruit paste. Add your sugar to your pulp and bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer constantly stirring until the paste becomes very thick. You should be able to make a furrow with your spoon and see the bottom of your pan. The longer the fruit cooks the redder it gets.

Pour your paste onto a lightly oiled bit of parchment paper that has been placed into a 9x13" baking dish or a cookie sheet. You will want something with a bit of a raised side. The thicker your paste the longer it will take to dry. I usually try to make my paste at 3/4 to an Inch in height. Traditionally your paste was put in a cupboard to dry but we have ovens that we can use. Heat your oven to its lowest setting (mine is 175 degree's) and put your paste into it. Depending on humidity and thickness of your paste and the amount of moisture left in it, drying can take as little as a few hours up to four or five days. The paste should be dry but sticky to the touch. You will need to turn it at least once partway through the drying process.

Store your fruit paste in an air tight container in a cool dry place. I use my refrigerator and have a drawer dedicated to it. The longer the paste sits the darker and richer the color becomes. I have stored the paste for as long as a year and I suspect it could last longer if stored properly. The Quince Paste pictured above was made in December 2016. Isn't it beautiful?

To Dry Peaches - The Queen-like Closet (1675)

Dry Peaches and Red Quince Paste Served at Curia Regis 9/10/2017

Several of the recipes that I have experimented with recently can be found in The queen-like closet; or, Rich cabinet stored with all manner of rare receipts for preserving, candying & cookery. Very pleasant and beneficial to all ingenious persons of the female sex. By Hannah Wolley. This book was first published in 1670, which is late for the period I most normally cook in. However, I believe that while the publishing date is late for the SCA, the recipes are reflective of cooking of the latter half of our SCA time line and therefore are not outside of the boundaries of SCA cooking.

The author, Hannah Wolley was born in 1623 and was the "Martha Stewart" of her day. By the age of 17 (1640) she was working in a nobles household who recognized that the culinary skills she had learned from her mother (general cooking, confectionary and medicinal remedies) was extraordinary and helped her to develop those skills. Hannah had many firsts in her long career; the first woman to attempt to make a living from writing, the first to have her name attributed to a cooking book and the first to direct her writings to servants in an attempt to bring to the lower social classes the ability to enjoy the grand style of food enjoyed by the upper classes. It appears that her writing career began at the age of 38 with the publication of her first book "The Ladies Directory" in 1661 and then her next book "The Cook's Guide" in 1664. All in all, the Queen-Like closet had five publication dates (1670, 1672, 1681 and 1684) and also enjoyed two editions published in German.

The inspiration for this dish began with the idea of wanting to present two different fruit pastes of contrasting color to those who were present at the Curia Regis brunch. Before we go further, I have to admit that I used the cook's prerogative to make this dish--instead of leaving the fruit whole, I pureed it and created a fruit paste. I wanted to make a bright yellow candy that would be a counterpoint to the red quince paste that I had made. I also wanted it to be a different shape. I knew I wanted to make use of summer fruit, either peaches or apricots and to create a bright gold candy. Having already interpreted the recipes for the orange marmalade and the rose conserve from "The Queen-Like Closet ", I took inspiration from the following recipes to create the clear peach jelly pictured above.

CCXV. To dry Apricocks. - Take your fairest Apricocks and stone them, then weigh them, and as you pare them, throw them into cold water, have in readiness their weight in fine sugar, wet it with some of the water they lie in, and boil it to a Candy height, then put in your A∣pricocks, and boil them till they are clear, when they have lain three or four days in the Syrup, lay them out upon Glasses to dry in a stove, and turn them twice a day.

CCI. To dry Apricocks or Pippins to look as clear as Amber. - Take Apricocks and take out the stones, and take Pippins and cut them in halves and core them, let your Apricocks be pared also; lay these Fruits in an earthen dish, and strew them over with fine Sugar, set them into a warm Oven, and as the Liquor comes from them put it away, when all the Liquor is come away turn them and strew them thick with Sugar on every side, set them into the Oven again, and when the Sugar is melted lay them on a dry dish, and set them in again, and every day turn them till they be quite dry. Thus you may dry any sort of Plumbs or Pears as well as the other, and they will look very clear.

Recipe

1 pound fresh peaches (alternatively you could use 18 ounces dried apricots that you have reconstituted in apple juice or you can use 1 bag of frozen peach slices (this is what I used)) - peeled and sliced

2 apples peeled, cored and sliced

1/4 cup sugar

Place your fruit in a pan and add just enough water to cover it and boil it until it is very soft. Drain the fruit and place it in a blender--give thanks to the Kitchen God's for modern technology and puree. At this point your fruit should look like baby food. If you have doubts about how well pureed your fruit is, strain it into a sieve into a pot and then return it to your stove. Add your sugar, bring to a boil and cook until the puree starts to "stick" to the pan leaving a furrow behind it as you scrape your spoon through it.

I put a spoonful of the mixture into well-oiled mini muffin tins, but you could just as easily pour the mixture onto a baking sheet and smooth it out. Place your puree into an oven that has been heated to its lowest setting (mine is 175 degree's) for five or six hours (or more depending on humidity and the amount of moisture left in the fruit) and let it dry. It should feel dry and slightly sticky to your touch. As an alternative, you could use a food dehydrator but be sure to keep an eye on the paste as it dries.

I plan on bringing fruit pastes and dry "jelly's" with me to camping events. I am looking forward to creating something similar with plums and pears as well as with apples. They are a sweet treat, easy to make and store well when made correctly. They are also fabulous edible decorations (I made a dragon out of the red quince paste and gilded it) and the extra "something" that will take your feasts over the top. They are very inexpensive to make and store extremely well.

The Queen-like Closet (1675) - LXXXVI. To make the best Orange Marmalade. - Orange Marmalade

In a few months I will be cooking a luncheon for a very special group of people. I'm honored to have been asked to do this. No pressures :-) but I have challenged myself to serve a mostly period set of dishes and among the dishes I am preparing to serve is orange marmalade. I have been eager to try this dish since I first saw the instructions in Hannah Woolley's (1622-1675) The Queen-like Closet OR RICH CABINET Scored with all manner of RARE RECEIPTS FOR Preserving, Candying and Cookery. and now I have the perfect excuse! Granted the book was published a little later then the period we use in the SCA, I believe it is a representation of dishes that were used very late in period.

I was fortunate to run across some blood oranges marked down because they were not perfect. I love blood oranges and used them to make this dish. It is sweeter then I would have expected but I am going to have a hard time keeping it until September! EVERYONE who has tried it has liked it, and it uses the part of the fruit that most people would throw away. I like to save my orange and lemon peels to make candied peels. It only takes a few hours of time and it makes a lovely presentation at the end of a feast or to put out for lunch, or even a quick snack when you are on the run. I had no difficulty having enough peel to make this marmalade.

LXXXVI. To make the best Orange Marmalade.

Take the Rinds of the deepest coloured Oranges, boil them in several Waters till they are very tender, then mince them small, and to one pound of Oranges, take-a Pound of Pippins cut small, one Pound of the fi∣nest Sugar, and one Pint of Spring-water, me't your Sugar in the Water over the fire, and scum it, then put in your Pippins, and boil them till they are very clear, then put in the Orange Rind, and boil them together, til you find by cooling a little of it, that it wil jelly very well, then put in the Iuice of two Oranges, and one Limon, and boil it a lit∣tle longer; and then put it up in Gally-pots.

86. To make the best Orange Marmalade

Take the rinds of the deepest colored oranges, boil them in several waters till they are very tender, then mince them small, and to one pound of oranges, take a pound of pippins (apples) cut small, one pound of the finest sugar, and one pint of spring-water, melt your sugar in the water of the fire, and scum it, then put in your pippins, and boil them till they are very clear, then put in the orange rind, and boil them together, til you find by cooling a little of it, that it will jelly very well, then put in the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and boil it a little longer; and then put it up in gally-pots.

Interpreted Recipe

1 pound of orange peel

1 pound -or- 2 cups apple sauce (unsweetened natural)

1 pound of sugar

2 cups water

Juice of 2 oranges

Juice of 1 lemon

This recipe made 4 8-ounce jelly jars of marmalade. I first cut the peels into like sized pieces and boiled in water several times. I usually bring the first water to boil and boil for five minutes to remove as quickly as possible any dye and bitterness. Then I drain the peels and on the second boiling boil again for five minutes before draining. When I do the final boiling I boil till tender. I wish I could give you a magic number for how long you should boil "until tender" but I think it depends on the age of the fruit, and the thickness. When you can easily pierce with a fork or toothpick it's done. The average time is

about 15 to 20 minutes.

I then drained the peels a final time and let cool enough I could easily handle them and minced them small. When they were minced I had about 2 cups of peels. I started using apple sauce when I started making fruit paste for the pectin to thicken my fruit pastes, which is why I knew I could use natural, unsweetened applesauce in lieu of the pippins called for in this recipe. What I have discovered using applesauce for it's pectin instead of pectin is that sometimes your pastes, candies or jellies will set up long before the reach the standard height for sugar cookery. It is also possible that my digital thermometer is no longer dependable. My modern recipes for orange marmalade advised that I cook the marmalade till it reached 222-223 degree's. But what happened was that it was ready to be put in the jars before it reached that height.

The instructions indicated that you wanted the same amount of apples as oranges, so I added the water, applesauce and sugar to a pot and heated until the sugar had melted, then added the orange peels. At this point I baby sat the mixture, stirring constantly until I noticed that the marmalade had thickened and that my spoon was leaving a noticeable trail behind it. My digital thermometer was reading 214 degrees and I agonized over letting it cook further or not. I did add the orange and lemon juice to the mixture and cooked another five minutes before pulling the pot off the stove and canning the jelly. At this point, the jelly that spattered was setting on impact on the counter, the stove and me! It was done.

This is truly one of the best orange marmalades I have ever tasted, much better then commercially made. The sample 8 ounce jar I kept back was inhaled by the taste testers and their friends. I strongly recommend that you consider making your own to serve at a future event, to give away as largesse, etc. When properly canned, your items can be put up and used as frequently as you wish.

Enjoy!

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - Wardonys in Syryp - Pears in Syrup

Wardonys in Syryp - Pears in Syrup

There are several recipes in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 Thomas Austin which feature pears that have been stewed in wine, sweetened with sugar or honey, and flavored with cinnamon and other varied spices. The first recipe that I interpreted was Perys en Composte which was declared the favorite of the two recipes which I interpreted. The second was Wardonys in Syryp, a very flavorful dish.

Among one of the oldest cultivated fruits is the pear, and it is sad that today most of us are only aware of a few of the many varieties of pears that are available; Bartlett, Bosc, Anjou, Comice, Asian and Seckle. Pears are thought to have originated in Asia over 4,000 years ago and were being actively cultivated in Europe approximately 1000 B.C. The Greeks had a special love of pears, and they were considered to be "gifts from the Gods" sacred to two goddesses, Hera and Aphrodite.

Pliny the Elder in his "Natural History" described over forty different kinds of pears. This number grew to over 60 varieties when John Gerard noted that a friend of his grew over 60 varieties of pears in the late 1500's. Pear seeds were given to the American Colonies in the early 1600's. Le Lecier describes over 200 varieties of pears in 1628. One of the oldest pear trees planted in 1810 in America can be found at San Juan Batista. It is still bearing fruit.

Worcester Black Pears

The most well-known pear variety is the Bartlett. When it was first introduced is unknown, although some sources suggest it was known in England as early as 1600, other sources indicate a much later date. When first introduced, the bartlett pear was known as the William's Bon Chretien, or William's pear and it now accounts for over 70% of the pears that you see in the supermarkets today.

What of the Warden pear? Warden's present their own unique history. It is possible that the Warden pear suggested in the recipes below refers to the Worcestor Black Pear, which is first referenced in Bedfordshire's Warden Abbey in the 13th century. If this is true, then this is one of the oldest known pear cultivars. The pear itself is mahogany colored with russet patches and soft white or cream colored fruit. It is incredibly hard and gritty and must be cooked in order to make it edible. Picked in late October, early November they can keep until April. It was this incredibly long keeping time that perhaps made them a popular item on the medieval table.

Another possibility is that the Warden was a general name given to any pear variety that was long keeping and needed to be stewed or cooked prior to eating. It may have come from the Anglo-Saxon word Weardon, meaning to preserve.

.x. Wardonys in syryp.—Take wardonys, an caste on a potte, and boyle hem till þey ben tender; þan take hem vp and pare hem, an kytte hem in to pecys*. [? ='in two pieces.' ]; take y-now of powder of canel, a good quantyte, an caste it on red wyne, an draw it þorw a straynour; caste sugre þer-to, an put it in [supplied by ed.] an erþen pot, an let it boyle: an þanne caste þe perys þer-to, an let boyle to-gederys, an whan þey haue boyle a whyle, take pouder of gyngere an caste þerto, an a lytil venegre, an a lytil safron; an loke þat it be poynaunt an dowcet.

x - Wardonys in syryp. Take wardonys, an caste on a potte, and boyle hem till they ben tender; than take hem vp and pare hem, an kytte hem in to pecys (Note: ? ='in two pieces.' ); take y-now of powder of canel, a good quantyte, an caste it on red wyne, an draw it thorw a straynour; caste sugre ther-to, an put it in an erthen pot, an let it boyle: an thanne caste the perys ther-to, an let boyle to-gederys, an whan they haue boyle a whyle, take pouder of gyngere an caste therto, an a lytil venegre, an a lytil safron; an loke that it be poynaunt an dowcet.

10. Pears in Syrup. Take pears, and cast them in a pot and boil them till they are tender; then take them up and pare them, and cut them in two pieces (or into pieces); take enough of powder of cinnamon, a good quantity, and cast it on red wine, and draw it through a strainer, cast sugar there-to, and put it in an earthen pot, and let it boil: and then cast the pears there-to, and let boil together, and when they have boiled a while, take powder of ginger and cast thereto, and a little vinegar, and a little saffron: and look that it be sour and sweet.

Interpreted Recipe Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1 pear, peeled, cored and cut in two pieces

1 tsp. cinnamon powder or 1 stick of cinnamon

3/4 cup red wine

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 tsp. ginger

Pinch of saffron

Gently poach pears until almost tender. While the pears are poaching bring the wine, sugar, ginger, vinegar, saffron and cinnamon to a boil and cook until mixture has thickened and reduced. When the syrup has thickened add the pears and cook until the pears become tender and serve.

I believe that this recipe, like the perys in compost could be made up to two weeks prior to an event. However, the pears would continue to soak up the color of the wine they were cooked in, and that would eliminate the beauty of the white flesh of the pears as soon as you cut into them which I found to be one of the most striking features of the recipe.

The taste testers really enjoyed this recipe and I believe this dish will find its way regularly onto my table, especially when pears are in season.

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Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334] (England, 1425)

Warduns in syruppe. Take wardens (pears), and pare hom clene, and scthe hom in red wyn with mulberryes, or saunders, tyl thai byn tendur, and then take hom up, and cut hom, and do hom in a pot; and do therto wyn crete, or vernage ||, or other gode swete -wyne, and blaunch pouder, and sugur, and pouder of gynger, and let hom boyle awhile, and then serve hit forth.

Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)

Peris in Syrippe. Take Wardons, and cast hem in a faire potte, And boile hem til thei ben tendre; and take hem vppe, and pare hem in ij. or in iij. And take powder ofCanell, a good quantite, and cast hit in good red wyne, And cast sugur thereto, and put hit in an erthen potte, And lete boile; And then cast the peris thereto, And late hem boile togidre awhile; take powder of ginger, And a litell saffron to colloure hit with, And loke that hit be poynante/ And also Doucet/

Thomas Awkbarow's Recipes (MS Harley 5401) (England, 15th century)

To make a Syrop of Wardons. Recipe wardons & seth þam til þai be softe in clene water, or cast þam in a syve & rost þam. Pyl þam & shere þam in resonabyl byg pecis; þan take rede wyne or swete wyn or whyte wyne or gode ale, sugur & pressyd hony & bole it, & take powdyr of gynger & canell & cast it þerin boylyng, &annis in confyt; & when it is sodyn cast in þi wardons & serof it forth.

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