Showing posts with label Confections. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Confections. Show all posts

Of assorted sugar comfits

 Originally published on Patreon Oct 5, 2022


Thomas Dawson lists comfets (comfits) as one of the "necessaries appertaining to a banquet". Comfits were often served at the end of the feast to freshen the breath, act as a digestive, as decoration, and sometimes used in the treatment of specific illnesses.

Aromatic seeds such as anise, fennel, or caraway were coated with sugar and colored using beet, spinach, or saffron. They can also be made using almonds or ginger. Comfits can still be purchased today, for example, Jordan almonds or pastilles. They are a bit time-consuming to make but oh so much tastier than the ones you purchase!

The easier comfits to make are the ones with seeds such as caraway, fennel, or anise. Making cinnamon comfits is a bit of a process. To start I will walk you through the process of candying seeds such as anise, caraway, coriander, fennel, or other seeds or nuts.

Many of the cookbooks that were published in the 1700s and after suggest coating the seeds with a solution of gum arabic. To create your solution use 1 tsp. of gum arabic, to 3 tsp. rosewater. I let mine sit overnight and it becomes a thick, honey-colored gel. If you are going to use gum arabic to coat your seeds, the first few coats (charges) will need to use this solution. Then you can move on to your sugar.

For more information on making these historic treats, please visit Historic Comfits Using Modern Equipment by Dame Alys Katharine (Elise Fleming).

Original Recipe

CLXXIX

Von allerley Zucker Confect

Ausz der Apotecken.

Of assorted sugar comfits

(as) from the apothecary

I. Almonds coated.

2. Anise coated.

3. Cinnamon-bark coated.

4. Cloves coated.

5. Coriander coated.

6. Caraway coated.

7. Fennel coated.

8. Pinion nut coated

9. Walnuts coated

10. Hazelnut (Filbert) kernels coated.

11. Peach kernel coated (I assume only the soft kernel inside the pit)

12. Citron peel coated.

13. Apricot kernel coated.

14. Assorted plum kernel(s) coated.

15. Assorted cherry kernels coated (is there a soft center to a cherry pit?)

16. Chestnuts coated.

17. (Sauer) Orange peel coated.

18. Lime peel coated (there is debate if Limonien were limes or lemons)

19. Eichorium (unsure what this is... perhaps oak???) root coated.

20. Pimpernell (Pimpinella saxifraga L) root coated. (greater Burnett???)

21. Glockenwurtz or Helmenkraut (Inula helenium L) root coated. (Elecampane is an expectorant, root also dyes blue)

22. Sugar root coated (sugar beet root)

23. Violet (or pansy) (Viola odorata L, Viola tricolor L) root coated.

24. Ginger coated.

25. Of assorted roots/ that have a well tasting scent/smell.

If you wish such comfits to coat with sugar/ so take a clean copper vessel/ that has two handholds/ hang it in the height on a rope at both handholds/ set a glow kettle with glowing coals thereunder/ put the comfits into the vessel/ and make it fine warm/ pour nice clarified (clean) sugar thereto/ and stir it often therewith/ till the confits the sugar takes to it/ so it becomes nice white and dry. Also coats one assorted grains (do they really mean wheat, rye, etc? or are they talking about kernels as in individual anise seeds?) with sugar/ and assorted spices/ so it becomes good and also welltasting.

Original Recipe How to cover all kinds of Seeds, or little pieces of Spices, or Orange or Limon Pill, with Sugar for Comfits. First of all you must have a deep bottomed Basin of Brass or Latin, with two ears of Iron to hang it with two Cords over some hot Coals. You must also have a broad Pan to put Ashes in, and hot Coals upon them. You must have a Brass Ladle to let run the Sugar upon the Seeds. You must have a Slice of Brass to scrape away the Sugar from the sides of the hanging Basin if need be. Having all these things in readiness, do as followeth; Take fine white Sugar beaten, and let your Seeds and Spice be dry, then dry them again in your hanging Basin: Take to every two pounds of Sugar one quarter of a pound of Spices or Seeds, or such like.  If it be Aniseeds, two pounds of Sugar to half a pound of Aniseeds, will be enough. Melt your Sugar in this manner, put in three Pounds of Sugar into the Basin, and one Pint of Water, stir it well till it be wet, then melt it very well and boil it very softly until it will stream from the Ladle like Turpentine, and not drop, then let it seeth no more, but keep it upon warm Embers, that it may run from the Ladle upon the seeds.  Move the Seeds in the hanging Basin so fast as you can or may, and with one hand, cast on half a Ladle full at a time of the hot Sugar, and rub the Seeds with your other hand a pretty while, for that will make them take the Sugar the better, and dry them well after every Coat. Do thus at every Coat, not only in moving the Basin, but also with stirring of the Comfits with the one hand, and drying the same: in every hour you may make three pounds of Comfits; as the Comfits do increase in bigness, so you may take more Sugar in your Ladle to cast on: But for plain Comfits, let your Sugar be of a light decoction last, and of a high decoction first, and not too hot.  For crisp and ragged Comfits make your decoction so high, as that it may run from the Ladle, and let it fall a foot high or more from the Ladle, and the hotter you cast on your sugar, the more ragged will your Comfits be; also the Comfits will not take so much of the sugar, as upon a light decoction, and they will keep their raggedness long; this high decoction must serve for eight or ten Coats, and put on at every time but one Ladle full. A quarter of a pound of Coriander seeds, and three pounds of sugar, will serve for very great Comfits. See that you keep your Sugar in the Basin always in good temper, that it burn not in Lumps, and if at any time it be too high boiled, put in a spoonful or two of water, and keep it warily with your Ladle, and let your fire be always very clear, when your Comfits be made, set them in Dishes upon Paper in the Sun or before the Fire, or in the Oven after Bread is drawn, for the space of one hour or two, and that will make them look very white. 

 Comfits 

1 tbsp. seed of choice (anise, fennel, caraway, etc.) 

1 cup sugar 

1/3 cup water

Instructions 1. If you choose to coat your seeds with gum arabic you will need to do that in the first few charges of syrup. The ratio that most of the later confectionary books used was 6:1 - 6 parts sugar syrup to 1 part gum arabic solution. It has an odd smell when you "cook" it, but that does not affect the taste  2. Heat the sugar and the water until it reaches 170 degrees for a smooth coat, or  225 degrees for a jagged coat.  3. While the sugar syrup is heating, you will want to heat your seeds or nuts in a large flat pan such as a wok or frying pan in order to release its essential oils.  If you cannot use your fingers to stir the seeds as they heat it is too hot.   4. Once the syrup has reached the temperature you want, take a teaspoon of it and pour it over the seeds in the pan. I shake the pan until the syrup has cooled enough I can smooth the seeds around with my fingers. However, you can use the back of a wooden spoon, and stir the seeds until the sugar dries.

  • If the seeds stick together, you have used too much syrup.
  • If the sugar forms pellets in the bottom of the pan then you have used too much syrup.

NOTE: In the first few charges (coats) of the syrup the seed will look grayish, and then they will gradually begin to turn white.   5. After about 12 charges, you are done for the day. I prefer my comfits smaller, so I usually do not do this process a second day. However, you can, if you wish, make another solution of syrup and coat your seeds again after they have had time to dry out overnight. The larger the comfits get, the more you will need to divide your batch. You need to be able to work with the pan.

NOTE: Beet juice, spinach juice, and saffron can be used to color your comfits in the last several charges of syrup, or, you can add a few drops of food coloring if you wish.  

To Make Cinnamon Comfits

 Cinnamon comfits require an extra step. First,  you need to make sure that you are using "true" cinnamon, that is Ceylon Cinnamon, which is soft, crumbly, and brittle. When you look at it, it is "compact" and consists of many layers. Cassia cinnamon is what you normally find in the store, and it is thick, and darker in color than Ceylon cinnamon which is a light rusty brown in color. Once you have obtained Ceylon cinnamon you will need to soak it overnight in water. This is so that you can shave it down into the needle-like strips that are needed to make the comfit. Then you will need to let your cinnamon dry thoroughly.  Once the cinnamon has dried completely, proceed as above, being careful to coat the cinnamon with the gum arabic/syrup solution in the first three charges (coats). You will need to stop coating your comfits after about eight charges of syrup and let them dry overnight. Then you can make another solution of syrup and continue the next day.  Enjoy! 

 Update: Regarding cinnamon comfits,  I have been able to make these successfully without soaking ahead of time. 

 Sources

"Deutsches Textarchiv – Rumpolt, Marx: Ein New Kochbuch. Frankfurt (Main), 1581.". Deutschestextarchiv.De, 2022, https://www.deutschestextarchiv.de/book/view/rumpolt_kochbuch_1581/?p=418&hl=Rote. Accessed 4 Oct 2022.

Palmer, Sharon. "Ein New Kochbuch". Academia.Edu, 2022, https://www.academia.edu/6272538/Ein_New_Kochbuch. Accessed 4 Oct 2022.

(German) Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem Magen - A delicious marcipan of quince and almonds in a strong flow on a weak stomach

 Originally published on Patreon Oct 10, 2022




In Anna Wecker’s Köstlich New Kochbuch (1598), this recipe for marzipan made with quince sounds divine, and so it had to be tested. My previous recipe for Marzipan flavored with coriander from A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1621, previously served at a Baronial 12th Night was well received. I had hoped that this would be no different and was eager to try it out.

What is Marzipan?

Marzipan is a confection made from almond paste, egg whites, and sugar. It is one of many dishes known as "banqueting dishes".

What is a Marchpane?

Marchpanes are baked marzipans that can be served with icing and decorated.

What was the banquet?

Similar to desserts that we enjoy today, the "Banquet" began simply as wafers and wines served in a separate room at the end of the meal when guests withdrew from the table. Eventually, this humble course became what we now know as the Banquet, a series of elaborate dishes consisting of pastries, sugar-coated spices, marmalades, fruit preserved in syrup, etc.

What was included in "the Banquet" ?

Thomas Dawson gives a comprehensive list of items in his book "The good husvvifes ievvell" published in 1596

THE NAMES OF ALL thinges necessary for a banquet. 1596
Suger. Pepper. Saffron. Anniseedes. Cinamon. Nutmegs. Saunders. Coliander. Licoras. All kinde of Cumfets. Orenges. Pomegranet. Torneseli. Prunes. Currans. Barberies conserued. Peper white and browne seedes. Lemmons. Rosewater. Raisins. Rie flowre. Ginger. Cloues and Mace. Damaske. water. Dates. Cherries conserued. Sweete Orenges. Wafers. For your Marchpanes seasoned and vnseasoned, Spinndges.

Original Recipe

Translation   

Ein köstlich Marcipan von Quitten und Mandeln in hefftigem Durchlauff von schwachem Magen

A delicious marcipan with quinces and almonds for strong diarrhea and weak stomachs Take nice quinces and steam them with quince juice in a tightly closed pot, or if you do it right they can produce the broth themselves (i.e. can be cooked without adding liquid). When they are nicely soft, remove their skin and take the best of their marrow or flesh so that no stone is added to it. Then take finely ground almonds and clean, bolted sugar as much as there are quinces and almonds. Take the half part of this and boil it into a syrup with rosewater or cinnamon water. Add the flesh of the quinces to this and let it dry or roast in a brass pan together. Then stir it well in a dish and the almonds with it, then place it on a clean table, work in the remaining sugar, and when it is like a gingerbread dough (ein teig zu Lebkuchen), shape it as you like, press in moulds, dry it in a baking oven or a stove (roehrofen). The same way, you may make pears or various kinds from pure quince flesh, or make krapfen (filled fried pastries) of this stuff, but do not work it so it becomes too stiff, leave it nicely soft. You can also fill wafers with it (for fritters).

Let the experimentation begin! 


I am trying a new method for cooking my quinces. I cut three quinces in half and placed them into a crockpot with enough apple juice to cover the bottom of the fruit (about 2 ounces). This method will take a few days, but the results I promise you, are worth it!

Set the crockpot on low and allow the quince to cook for several hours. The idea to cook the quince in a crockpot came from a blog post I had found from well-fed, flat broke "crock pot membrillo".

NOTE: I did not add sugar at this point because I want to follow the recipe as exactly as possible and I am not making quince paste.

A short while later...

The quinces smelled very good and were starting to soften but all of the apple juice has been absorbed or cooked off :-/. I added more juice, enough to come about halfway up the fruit, and continued cooking overnight.

DAY 2

Pictured above are the lovely cooked quinces. They cooked in the slow cooker for about six hours. Aren't they beautiful? Heavy, glossy, and starting to break down!? Exactly what you want to see at this point.

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I must have done it right because the pot was full of "juice".

The next step is to remove the skin, seeds, and cores, blitz them to a pulp in the blender and then return the fruit to the crock pot and continue to cook it until it reaches the color you wish. I love a deep garnet-colored paste.

Also, a small correction. I used fresh pressed cloudy apple juice that may sometimes be referred to as apple cider. It is the only juice I drink or use and I don't think a clear juice would have worked as well.

A Delicious Marcipan (Marzipan) with Quinces and Almonds

Ingredients

3 tbsp. cooked quince pulp

3/4 cup + almond flour **

9 tbps. + confectioner sugar **

NOTE: I did not have access to rosewater, but, had I access it, I would have added a tsp or two. Also, the next time I make the fruit, I will be adding cinnamon to it rather than cinnamon oil.

Mix all ingredients together until you get a dough that is similar to medieval gingerbread. Mix two tbsp. almond flour with 1-2 tbsp. confectioner sugar and sprinkle it on your countertop. Roll to approximately 1/4" and cut into shapes. Allow the marzipan to dry in a very low oven.

**Amount may vary depending on how "wet" the quince pulp is. You want to create a dough the consistency of play dough.

Thoughts

It is a lovely taste! You taste the quince, then the almonds, and towards the end of the bite, the flavors mix together and it tastes -almost- like cherries.

This was very easy to make, although it did require a lot of time. I believe I will be cooking my quinces in the crockpot instead of the stovetop in the future. The lower the heat and the longer it cooks the redder it gets.

Additionally - this stores very well in an airtight container. You can also freeze it by wrapping it in parchment paper and then sealing it in a ziplock bag which has had all the air squeezed from it. This made a huge batch of Marzipan. It is almost a year later, and I have the better part of a pound left because I'm stingy with it!  


Sources

"Crock Pot Membrillo (Quince Paste).". Well Fed, Flat Broke, 2015, https://wellfedflatbroke.com/2015/09/14/membrillo/. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

Culina-Vetus.De, 2022, https://www.culina-vetus.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Recipes-from-Anna-Wecker-1598.pdf. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

"Early English Books Online". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo/A19957.0001.001?type=simple&rgn=full+text&q1=banquet&submit=Go. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

"'Ein Köstlich New Kochbuch Von Allerhand Speisen, An Gemüsen, Obs, Fleisch, Geflügel, Wildpret, Fischen Vnnd Gebachens : Nicht Allein Vor Gesunde: Sondern Auch Vnd Fürnemlich Vor Krancke, In Allerley Kranckheiten Und Gebresten ...' - Digitalisat | MDZ". Digitale-Sammlungen.De, 2022, https://www.digitale-sammlungen.de/de/view/bsb11111117?page=60,61. Accessed 10 Oct 2022.

Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430) - Cxxij. A rede morreye




In the realm of medieval cookery, there's a curious coincidence found within the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books: Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450), featuring extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin. It's the duplication of a recipe, each time bearing a different name but offering similar instructions on preparing the dish. Fortunately, I find myself in possession of mulberries, which seem to flourish abundantly in my locale, and are often treated as anuisances in my area.

Murrey, is similar to Rapeye, seems to denote a type of sauce, characterized by its red or reddish hue and its thick consistency. For instance, the recipe from the Forme of Curye, circa 1390, presents an early rendition of this recipe: 

MORREE [1]. XXXVIII.

Take Almandes blaunched, waisshe hem. grynde hem. and temper hem up with rede wyne, and alye hem with flour of Rys. do þerto Pynes yfryed. and colour it with saundres. do þerto powdour fort and powdour douce

and salt, messe it forth and flour it [2] with aneys confyt whyte.

[1] Morree. Ms. Ed. 37. murrey. Ibid. II. 26. morrey; probably from the mulberries used therein. [2] flour it. Flourish it.


Similarly, a recipe from MS Royal 12 (1340) offers diverse ingredients to accomplish the sauce:

32. Moree. rice flour or amidon, whichever can be found; that the color of sandalwood will be had, grind well in a mortar; and then it must be tempered in almond milk and well strained. And then put powdered cinnamon and of galingale. If it is a fish day, put in pears or chestnuts or salmon, or luce or perch; if a meat day, put in veal or goat, if you would have a good and royal meat.

The Online Etymological Dictionary gives the following information on the derivation of the word:

c. 1300, "tree of the genus Morus;" mid-14c. in reference to a berry from the tree; an alteration of morberie (13c.) from or cognate with Middle High German mul-beri (alteration by dissimilation of Old High German mur-beri, Modern German Maulbeere); both from Latin morum "mulberry, blackberry" + Old English berie, Old High German beri "berry." As mentioned earlier, I am lucky to have a mulberry tree growing in my yard. Each year I wait for the fruit to ripen so that I can make mulberry jam, or eat it on shortcakes either by itself or mixed with other berries.
Both of these recipes refer to a dish that is colored with mullberries. As has been discussed previously, color played a major roles in this time period. The color "red" held major significance; life force, love, lust and anger being only a few.  It also held religious significance, being the color of Christ's blood and the fires of Hell. I wonder what the significance held for this dish, if any?

Original Recipe

.Cxxij. A rede Morreye.—Take Molberys, and wrynge a gode hepe of hem þorw a cloþe; nym Vele, hew it & grynd it smal, & caste þer-to; nym gode Spycery an [supplied by ed.] Sugre, & caste þer- [leaf 22 bk.] to; take Wastilbrede & grate it, & ȝolkys of Eyroun, & lye it vppe þer-with, & caste gode pouder of Spycery þer-an a-bouen; & þan serue it forth.

Interpreted Recipe

122. A Red Morreye - Take mulberries, and wring a good heap of them through a cloth; take veal, cut it and grind it small, and cast thereto; take good spices and sugar, and caste thereto; take Wastel Bread (bread made from flour) and grate it, and yolks of eggs, and lay it up there-with and caste good powder of spices there-on, above; and then serve it forth.

Original Recipe

.Cxviij. Murreye.—Take Molberys, & wryng hem þorwe a cloþe; nym Vele, hew it, sethe it, grynd it smal, & caste þer-to; nym gode Spycery, Sugre, & caste þer-to; take Wastylbrede y-gratyd, [leaf 22.] and ȝolkys of Eyroun, & lye it vppe þer-with, & caste gode pouder a-boue y-now, & þan serue forth.

Interpreted Recipe

218. Murreye - Take mulberries, and wring them through a cloth, take veal, cut it, cook it, grind it smal and cast there-to; take good spicery, sugar and caste there-to; take wastel bread grated, and yolks of eggs and lay it up there-with, and cast good powder above enough now and then serve forth.


Ingredients 
To Serve 8

2 pounds cooked veal, pork or chicken, either sliced, or cut into bite sized pieces
2 cups mulberries
1 tsp. mixed spices (powder forte)
~ 1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup breadcrumbs
1 egg yolk
*Opt*  1 tsp. lemon juice, vinegar, or wine

Instructions

1. We are instructed to "take mulberries and wring them through a cloth", to create mulberry juice.  To do this, add mulberries, spices, sugar, lemon juice (wine, vinegar) , and water (if needed) to a blender, and blend until smooth.
2. Strain your juice using a cloth lined sieve, to remove solids,  into a pan. 
3. Add bread and egg  yolk, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the bread has dissolved in the sauce. 
4. Add meat, and continue to cook until the mixture has reached your desired consistency. 

Thoughts

This recipe is found in the pottage section of the Harl. MS 279, meaning it is a dish that is cooked in a pot.  The instructions as written above, advise us to mix the meat with the sauce, and to cook it. We are left to our imagination to determine if this is a saucier dish that could serve as a "soup/stew" or if it could be served as a sauce along side, sliced meat, which would be a more modern interpretation.  Or a meat cooked in sauce, similar to a meaty pasta sauce, or a good braised meat. 

For the presentation, I chose to serve this dish as a braised dish, using slices of pork braised in the mulberry sauce over sops of bread (to catch all of the sauce!), and a side of boiled & buttered vegetables. This would be a delicious appetizer or a perfect first course dish.  I hope you enjoy. 

Rediscovering Apple Confection: A Historical Confection found in Anonimo Veneziano

As promised, this is the recipe and research for the picture above.  This item was created for Pennsic 50 A&S Warpoint Team. I was chosen as an alternate, to step in if someone who was competing for points was unable to attend.  

Original Recipe In Italian - Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare.

 Toy la mella e mondala, poy la grata; varda che non vada le granelle dentro la gratitura e lassala sugare per dui iorni. El sucho che fa la mella lassalo pur con la mella; passa le pome gratate e per ogni tri libre de pome meti libre tri de mele e lassale stare dui zorni le pome chomo el mele; poy fale bolire sempre menandole con speçie tanto che le mele sia cocte, abi a mente le spezie voleno essere messe quando l' è quasi cocto el confetto, cossí quelle de chodogni. Poy la distendi suso una tavola o suso una pietra bagnata e fay a modo di foio grosso men de mezzo dido; poy lassala refredare e fane a modo de schachieri in pezetti picholi e reponile in una schatolla con foie de laurano de sotto e poy de sopra dall' altra mano va metando foie de suolo in suolo; e se voi mettere spezie tra foio e foio serà molto bono. Agi a mente ch' el vol per lo men bolire una hora grossa e forsi dui sempre menandole bene e guardale dal fumo.

Original transcription from Libro di cucina/ libro per cuoco (Anonimo veneziano) — Institut für Germanistik (uni-giessen.de)

CXXXII Candied "apio" and paradise apples that are ready immediately, and grated they can be made as you like.

Take apples and peel them, then grate them, watch that there aren’t seeds inside the grated apples, and let them dry for two days. The juice that comes from the apples leave with them, and strain the grated apples, and for every three pounds of apples add three pounds of honey and let the apples sit in the honey for two days. Then put them to boil, always mixing carefully until the honey is cooked. Have in mind that the spices should be added when the candy is nearly cooked and candied, such as for quinces. Then spread the candy over a table or over a wet stone. Make them in the way of a large sheet, less than a half a finger high. Leave them to cool and make rolls of small pieces of the candy and put them to rest on a dish lined with bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) below and then above and build them up layer by layer. And if you want to add spices between each layer it will be very good. Bear in mind that it will need to boil for at least an hour and perhaps for two, always mixing well and protected from smoke.

Candied "Apio" and Paradise Apples

 Ingredients:

 1 ½ pounds of apples (preferably Granny Smith), cleaned, peeled, and cored

2 ¼ cups of honey

1 tablespoon of fine spice mix[1]

Fresh bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) (for serving)

Directions

 

1.  Grate the peeled apples using a box grater or mandolin. Place the grated apples into a sieve suspended above a bowl to collect the juices.

2.  Cover the grated apples and allow them to sit for two days, stirring occasionally to promote air drying.

3.  On the third day, weigh the strained apples and add 12 ounces (approximately 1 cup) of honey for every pound of grated apple. Stir well and let the mixture sit for two more days, stirring daily.  (Note: Modern appliances can blend the mixture into a smooth puree if desired, otherwise the consistency of the finished product will appear “rough”.)

4.  Transfer the apple and honey mixture into a saucepan and heat it on low until the honey warms. Then increase the heat and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. (Note: Alternatively, cook the mixture in a crockpot on low heat for at least ten hours.)

5.  Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and continue stirring constantly. The paste will gradually darken in color and start pulling away from the pan's sides.

6.  Add the spice mix to the apple paste when it begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Cook until a spoon drawn through the paste leaves a trough without disappearing. This process may take an hour or more.

7.  Transfer the fruit paste to the lined cookie sheet or baking dish and allow it to cool.

8.  Once cooled, cut the paste into squares, and serve on fresh bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) (do not consume the leaves). For added flavor, sprinkle the paste with additional spices before serving.

[1]  To make fine spices mix grind 2 tbsp. peppercorns to a fine powder, add to 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon and ground ginger.  ¾ tsp cloves and 1 ½ tsp saffron.

Introduction

 The Il Libro per cuoco o Anonimo Veneziano, also known as The cook's book or Anonymous Venetian, is valuable fifteenth-century Italian manuscript housed in the Casanatense Library in Rome. It contains 135 recipes that document the cooking methods, ingredients, and preferences of early Italy. The manuscript includes a recipe called "CXXXII. Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare," which translates to "132. Candied 'apio' and paradise apples that are ready immediately and grated can be made as you like." This research aims to revive an ancient confectionery method and shed light on the early history of candy making, focusing on fruit pastes.  

The historical background of confections reveals their ancient origins and evolution. The ancient Egyptians preserved nuts and fruits with honey, while physicians in the Middle Ages used sweet confections to mask the taste of medicines. Sugar, introduced from India, Persia, and the Middle East, gradually replaced honey as a sweetener. The concept of sugar as medicine emerged from the Hippocratic theory of balancing bodily humors. According to Greek dietetics, the stomach's heat and digestion played a crucial role in maintaining health. Sugar and honey were believed to warm the stomach and aid digestion, leading to their prominence in sweet dishes served at the end of meals.

The recipe for "CXXXII. Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare" holds several significant aspects. It documents the creation of a fruit paste that is served immediately upon completion, rather than drying it first. It also uses honey as the primary sweetener, reflecting an earlier period when sugar was not as prevalent. Additionally, the recipe showcases the richness of the ingredients, indicating the wealth of the person serving it. The instructions even include directions on how to present the dessert. By exploring this specific recipe, the project aims to revive a forgotten confectionary technique and deepen our understanding of the early history of candy making, particularly fruit pastes.

Examining the Ingredients

 The recipe for Apio features the following ingredients: honey, apples, apple juice, and various spices. Honey is the primary sweetener, adding a natural and rich sweetness. Apples, specifically the "Paradise Apple," form the base of the fruit paste once grated and mixed with honey. Spices enhance the flavor profile, providing depth and complexity to the Apio. The spices are not specified. They are added at the end of the cooking process, however, to infuse their aromatic essence with the apples and honey. The Apio is presented on bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.), adding a visual touch of elegance, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the dish.

What kind of apples were available? Of the many varieties that were grown during this time, two stand out.  The pearmaine and the paradise, which is mentioned in the recipe. The Pearmaine apple, dating back to around 1200 in England, is described as small to medium-sized. It exhibits yellowish-green skin with streaks of red. It possesses a conical shape reminiscent of a pear, albeit wider at the stem and tapering towards the bottom. A related variety is the Queening apple, also known as Winter Pearmaine, is available today. These apples are known for their sweet, slightly tart, and tangy flavor with subtle notes of pear. A paradise apple, also called an "apium apple" or "apius apple," denotes the common apple variety. According to the Minnesota Seasons website, these apples are fleshy and exhibit a globe-shaped to somewhat egg-shaped pome, ranging from 2⅜″ to 4⅓″ in diameter. Initially green, they gradually turn yellow to red as they ripen in the mid-to-late summer. Paradise apples are commonly used as rootstock and possess an astringent or mildly acidic taste.

Considering the known apple varieties, the most favorable options for recreating this recipe are Pearmaine or Paradise apples. Obtaining these specific apples, however, proves challenging in the everyday marketplace. Nevertheless, there are modern apple varieties that can serve as substitutes. Apples such as Suncrisp, Gala, Ambrosia, Jazz, Fuji, Envy, and Winesap, known for their sweetness, slight tartness, and pear-like notes, can be suitable substitutes for Pearmaine. Additionally, with their acidic and sharp taste, Granny Smith apples can serve as a viable substitute for the Paradise apple.

In addition to sweetness, honey serves several other purposes in preparing Apio. Firstly, honey acts as a natural binder or thickener, melding the grated apples together and creating a cohesive texture for the fruit paste. Secondly, honey acts as a preservative due to its antimicrobial properties. It helps inhibit the growth of microorganisms, extending the shelf life of the Apio and enabling storage before consumption. Lastly, honey flavor directly complements the apples' natural sweetness and enhances the spices used, helping to create a balance of flavors.

The Richness of Spices

 The Apio recipe uses the term "spices" generically as one of its ingredients. I sourced the spices for this recreation from another fourteenth-fifteenth century Italian manuscript called Liber de Coquina or Libro di cucina. Like the Anonimo Veneziano, this manuscript sheds light on medieval Italian cuisine and culinary practices. The Liber de Coquina includes recipes for various dishes, from soups and sauces to meat, fish, and desserts. It guides cooking techniques, ingredient combinations, and the utilization of spices and herbs. The specific recipe chosen belongs to the category known as LXXIII. Specie fine a tute cosse or "Fine spices for all dishes (things)."

 

Original Recipe Specie fine a tute cosse in Italian

 LXXIII. Specie fine a tute cosse.

Toi una onza de pevere e una de cinamo e una de zenzevro e mezo quarto de garofali e uno quarto de zaferanno.

 Translation

LXXIII Fine spices for all dishes (things)

Take one ounce of pepper, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of ginger, half a quarter ounce of cloves, and one quarter ounce of saffron.

Pepper found its way into Italy during the first century BC. The Romans, renowned for their expansive trade networks, established connections with various regions, including India and other parts of Asia, where pepper thrived. Pliny the Elder describes black, long, and white pepper in his Natural History. He emphasizes the significance of these spices, stating, "Both pepper and ginger grow wild in their respective countries, and yet here we buy them by weight—just as if they were so much gold or silver." Pepper quickly became a vital ingredient in Roman cuisine and remained widely utilized throughout the empire.

Saffron also entered Italy early, thanks to the ancient Greeks. They actively cultivated and traded this valuable spice, sourcing it from regions such as Persia (modern-day Iran) and Asia Minor (modern-day Turkey). The remaining spices mentioned in the recipe, however—cinnamon, clove, and ginger—arrived in Italy later. By the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, Italy had grown into the Mediterranean world’s key center of trade and commerce. Venice became a crucial bridge connecting Northern and Western Europe with the Middle East and the Far East, granting access to diverse spices originating from these distant lands.

Comparison of Period and Modern-Day Equipment Used in the Preparation of Candied Apio

 The Apio recipe involves the use of several essential pieces of equipment familiar to the modern cook: grater, colander, pot or saucepan, table.

The original invention of the grater is a subject of debate. However, historians credit Isaac Hunt or François Boullier with inventing it around 1540. Bartolomeo Scappi's cookbook, Opera dell'arte del cucinare, published in 1570, illustrates a grater resembling its modern-day counterpart. In Apio, apples are grated and allowed to air dry for two days before cooking. Grating the apples breaks them into smaller pieces and helps release the juices.


After being air dried for two days, the grated apples are passed through a sieve or strainer, separating the excess liquid from the fruit. This step, passa le pome gratate (sieve the grated apples), allows for accurate measurement of the weight of the apples. The cook adds an equal weight of honey and lets the apples soak for two more days before proceeding to the next step. Scappi's Opera also features an illustration of a sieve, providing insight into its potential appearance during the time. 

The recipe instructs the cook to take the next step of "poy fale bolire" or allowing it to boil. To accomplish this, the cook should use an appropriate cooking vessel, such as a pot or saucepan. Although the recipe does not specify the type of vessel, Scappi includes numerous illustrations depicting the saucepans and pots commonly used during this period. The equipment has remained unchanged in design with the exception of variations in the materials from which it is crafted. 

The final sentence of the recipe, "Agi a mente ch' el vol per lo men bolire una hora grossa e forsi dui sempre menandole bene e guardale dal fumo." (Keep in mind that it should boil for at least an hour, constantly stirring well and protecting it from smoke.), suggests the need for slow boiling of the fruit. Slow boiling is a cooking technique that removes excess moisture and achieves a gel-like consistency. It also serves to preserve the food by eliminating organic impurities.

After cooking, the recipe instructs to pour the fruit paste onto the tavolo o superficie di lavoro (table or work surface) or pietra bagnata (wet stone). When the recipe instructs to "distendi suso una tavola" (spread it on a table), it suggests using a flat surface, such as a tabletop, or a wet stone to hold and shape the fruit paste. Placing the mixture on a flat surface allows for gradual heat release and even cooling, facilitating easier handling and cutting once the apio has solidified. 

 

Analysis of Cooking Techniques used in Apio

 The Apio recipe employs a variety of cooking techniques to achieve its outcome. When grating the apples, finely shredding them ensures easier cooking and infusion of flavors. The air-drying step removes excess moisture from the fruit, concentrating the flavor. Soaking the grated apples in honey for two days before cooking actively enhances the flavor, texture, and preservation of the apples while allowing them to absorb the honey’s sweetness and flavor. Regular stirring during cooking is crucial to ensure heat is evenly distributed and prevent the mixture from sticking to the pot. Finally, pouring the mixture onto a flat shallow surface after cooking to cool allows it to thicken and stiffen into a flexible, gel-like consistency.

The Importance of Presentation and the Use of Bay Laurel Leaves

 The recipe instructs the cook to place the prepared apio on a dish along with laurel leaves, both underneath and on top, as indicated by the phrase "picholi e reponile in una schatolla con foie de laurano de sotto e poy de sopra."  Serving the apio on fresh bay leaves (Laurus nobilis L.) adds an elegant touch to the presentation, a visually pleasing contrast between the vibrant color of the candy and the vivid green of the leaves.

It is important to note that the bay leaves are not intended for consumption but serve as an ornamental element. Despite being commonly utilized in culinary preparations, bay leaves are generally not ingested in their raw or whole form due to their leathery texture, which can be unpalatable. To extract their desired flavor and aroma fully, bay leaves are best utilized by simmering, boiling, or infusing them in liquids during cooking. Their presence in this recipe is solely decorative.

It is worth mentioning, however, that even in their raw state, bay leaves make contributions beyond the ornamental. Bay leaves – like honey -- possess significant preservative and microbial properties that contribute to their value in the culinary world. The leaves contain essential oils, such as cineol, eugenol, and linalool, which exhibit antimicrobial effects against various bacteria and fungi. Their ability to inhibit pathogens like Escherichia coli (E. coli), Salmonella, and Listeria monocytogenes makes them a natural food preservative. Additionally, the antioxidants found in bay leaves, including caffeic acid and rutin, aid in preventing oxidative damage and spoilage. Thus, bay leaves serve as a natural food preservative due to their ability to hinder the growth of microorganisms and extend the shelf life of various food preparations. In addition to their preservative properties, bay leaves are an effective insect repellent. The pungent aroma of these leaves, primarily due to essential oils, deters pests like ants, cockroaches, and weevils. This natural quality makes bay leaves valuable to food storage areas or dried goods, safeguarding them from infestations. Historically, bay leaves have been utilized in traditional medicine for their antimicrobial attributes, aiding digestion, respiratory ailments, and wound healing. These multifaceted properties of bay leaves contribute to their extensive use in culinary practices and various therapeutic applications (Sirikin, 2018).  

Conclusion

 In conclusion, the exploration of the manuscript "Il libro per cuoco o Anonimo Veneziano o Anonimo Veneto" offers valuable insights into the early history of candy making and the culinary traditions of early Italy by providing a glimpse into the cooking methods, ingredients, and preferences of that era. Of the many recipes found within the document, one recipe, "CXXXII. Confetti de melle apio o de pome paradiso se le voy fare subito chomo è gratate le poy fare come ti pare," stands out. It showcases the creation of Apio, an apple-based fruit paste using honey as the primary sweetener, reflecting the prevalence of honey as a sweetener during that time. This rediscovered recipe not only offers a delicious treat but also highlights the interplay of humoral qualities in ancient Greek dietetics and how it continued to impact diet in the fifteenth century, emphasizing the balance of bodily humors through carefully selected ingredients.

Researchers who may be interested in further exploration into medieval culinary practices in the fourteenth and fifteenth century, should consider the following books. "Liber de Coquina," a 14th-century Neapolitan cookbook. "Le Viandier," authored by Guillaume Tirel (Taillevent) in the 14th century, is a French cookbook. For a glimpse into the culinary practices of medieval England, "Forme of Cury" is an essential resource. Compiled by King Richard II's chefs in the late 14th century, this cookbook contains a diverse range of recipes. To explore the gastronomy of medieval Catalonia, "Libre del Coch" by Ruperto de Nola is recommended.

  

Final Thoughts:

The recipe for Apio proved to be a time-consuming but straightforward process, taking five days to complete. The resulting product had a deep red color and a delightful blend of spices, with a concentrated apple flavor that was not overly sweet despite the generous use of honey. The presentation of the fruit paste was visually stunning, resembling jewels on a vibrant green backdrop.

Surprisingly modern in taste, this recipe could easily find a place on a cheese board or even as a unique addition to a sandwich. It would serve as an excellent dessert course alongside other candies such as manus christi, sugar plate, comfits, marzipan, marchpane, or gingerbread. 

  

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