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Savory Medieval Gruel Recipe (Gruelle a-forsydde) – Harleian MS. 279, ca. 1430

A rustic bowl of medieval-style gruel made with oats and pork, topped with a golden saffron tint. Imagine serving it hot with a side of crusty bread on a wooden table?

Medieval Gruel: Rediscovering a Surprisingly Delicious Dish from the Past

Introduction

Much to my own surprise—and initial skepticism—I found myself genuinely enjoying a dish I had long dismissed: savory oatmeal soup, otherwise known as medieval gruel. The term “gruel” once conjured images of bland, gray slop, more obligation than delight. Yet what landed in my bowl during this culinary experiment was anything but disappointing. The flavors were rich, the texture comforting, and the experience unexpectedly humbling. It’s a lesson in not judging food by reputation alone.

Once a staple in medieval kitchens, gruel has a deep culinary history that deserves renewed attention. Beyond its humble name lies a dish that sustained generations, combining simplicity with nourishment. Whether you’re interested in historical cooking, sustainable eating, or just exploring new flavors, medieval gruel may just surprise you too.

What is Medieval Gruel?

Medieval gruel is a broth-like dish made from oats and liquid—typically water or broth—enhanced with small amounts of meat and occasionally spiced or colored with saffron. While it shares a lineage with porridge, the key difference lies in its consistency: gruel is notably thinner and more soup-like, designed to stretch ingredients further while still delivering vital nutrients.

The base typically consists of coarsely ground oats, which were an affordable and widely available staple in medieval Europe. Pork was often the meat of choice when available, though wealthier households may have used other proteins. Saffron, a luxury even in the Middle Ages, was used sparingly to add color and subtle flavor, making the dish more appealing both visually and taste-wise.

Easy to prepare and adaptable to what was on hand, medieval gruel was an everyday dish for the working class and a testament to resourceful cooking. Far from being merely a bland porridge, it provided warmth, sustenance, and variety at the communal table.

Historical Origins and Manuscript Evidence

The roots of this dish can be traced through several 15th-century manuscripts, most notably Harleian MS. 279 (circa 1430) and Harl. MS. 4016 (circa 1450). These cookbooks, compiled in England, include recipes that describe the preparation of gruel using oatmeal, meat, and seasonings. Variants also appear in extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, and Douce MS. 55, indicating widespread use and adaptation of the dish across different regions and social contexts.

The recipes offer a rare glimpse into the domestic life of the time. Instructions were simple and functional, focused more on outcome than precision—grind your oats, boil with meat, strain, and season. Despite the minimalism, these texts reveal the essential culinary strategies of the day: thriftiness, nutritional efficiency, and the use of available local ingredients.

By examining these sources, we not only revive a lost recipe but also reconnect with a way of cooking deeply rooted in survival, ingenuity, and community.

Translating the Original Recipe

One of the most fascinating aspects of recreating historical dishes is interpreting the original text. The medieval recipe for gruel, found in Harleian MS. 279, reads as follows in Middle English:

.vij. Gruelle a-forsydde.
Take otemele, an grynd it smal, an sethe it wyl, an porke þer-ynne, an pulle of þe swerde an pyke owt þee bonys, an þan hewe it, an grynd it smal in a morter; þan neme þin grwel an do þer-to, þan strayne it þorw a straynour, an put it in a potte an sethe it a lytel, an salt it euene; an colour it wyth safroun, an serue forth rennyng.

In modern English, this translates to:

Take oatmeal and grind it small. Boil it well with pork. Remove the skin and pick out the bones. Then chop and grind the pork fine in a mortar. Add it to your gruel and strain the mixture through a strainer. Return to the pot and simmer briefly. Salt to taste and color with saffron. Serve it running (i.e., thin).

This interpretation provides critical insight into medieval preparation methods. Grinding both oats and pork ensured easier digestion and uniform texture. Straining may have helped eliminate tough oat hulls, bones, or undesirable fragments—less about refinement, more about practicality. The final product was a smooth, lightly colored, savory soup designed to nourish and comfort.

Why Gruel Was Essential in Medieval Life

In the medieval world, food wasn’t just sustenance—it was a lifeline, especially for the lower classes. Gruel served as a cornerstone dish because it required minimal ingredients, could be scaled up to feed large groups, and provided both calories and nourishment. Oats were easy to grow and store, and a small amount of pork or broth could transform plain grains into a satisfying meal.

Beyond its economic value, gruel was important nutritionally. Its soft texture made it ideal for children, the elderly, and the ill. The warm broth was easy on the stomach and often enriched with whatever modest ingredients were available. For pregnant women and young children, it provided crucial nourishment during times of limited access to meat or fresh produce.

Gruel was not just food—it was a community dish. Served in large pots, it brought people together, creating moments of shared sustenance in households and monastic settings alike.

A Global Tradition: Hot Cereal Dishes Across Cultures

While medieval gruel may feel like a uniquely European artifact, its essence is global. In Asia, congee—a rice-based porridge—has existed for over 4,000 years, used similarly to nourish the sick, the young, and the hungry. Its consistency and adaptability mirror that of medieval gruel, with each culture adding its own spin via spices, broths, and toppings.

Even earlier, Neolithic communities across Europe were cooking hot grain mashes. Archaeological sites in Switzerland have uncovered signs of ground grains cooked on stones, possibly precursors to both porridge and early bread. These dishes were often communal, cooked in bulk, and symbolized a shift from nomadic to settled life.

The practice of boiling grains with liquid to create a warming, sustaining meal is nearly universal. From Native American cornmeal mush to Scandinavian rye porridges, hot cereal dishes have served as staples throughout history. Medieval gruel sits proudly within this global lineage.

From Gruel to Beer: The Surprising Link

At first glance, gruel and beer might seem like culinary opposites. One is a nourishing hot cereal; the other, a recreational beverage. But in reality, their origins are closely intertwined. Any mixture of grain and water left to rest in the right conditions will begin to ferment, creating alcohol. This discovery, likely accidental, was one of humanity’s earliest breakthroughs in food science.

The earliest archaeological evidence of beer production comes from the Zagros Mountains of Iran (circa 3400–3000 BCE), where researchers have identified residues of barley fermentation. Meanwhile, in Neolithic China, a mixed fermented beverage dating back to around 7000 BCE was made from rice, honey, fruit, and possibly grapes. These beverages may have started as variations of fermented gruel, left out and discovered to have intoxicating effects.

In essence, gruel was more than survival food—it was transformative. It marked the beginning of humanity’s exploration into fermentation, leading not just to alcohol, but to the very birth of bread, civilization, and ritual. Every spoonful of medieval oat soup connects us, in a small but profound way, to this ancient legacy.

Why Recreate Historical Recipes Today?

In our era of culinary abundance, recreating a centuries-old peasant dish may seem unnecessary—or even unappetizing. But historical recipes like medieval gruel offer something deeper: connection. Cooking from the past allows us to experience flavors, methods, and mindsets from lives long gone, anchoring us in a shared human story that transcends time.

There’s a growing interest in historical reenactments, Renaissance fairs, and medieval-themed dinners. These aren’t just for entertainment—they’re a way of engaging history with our senses. Food becomes a portal, offering an immersive, tangible connection to the past.

Beyond the historical curiosity, dishes like gruel have a sustainable, minimalist charm. They remind us that simple ingredients, treated with care, can yield deeply satisfying results. In a world saturated with fast food and over-processed meals, this return to basics can be both grounding and inspiring.

Modern Medieval Gruel Recipe: Step-by-Step

Inspired by the 15th-century cookery manuscripts and adjusted for modern palates and convenience, this recipe serves 2 as a main dish or 3–4 as a side.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup broth (chicken, pork, or vegetable)
  • 2 tablespoons oats (steel-cut or Scottish-style preferred)
  • 1/4 pound ground pork
  • Pinch of saffron (optional but historically accurate)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a small pot, bring the water and broth to a simmer.
  2. Add the oats and stir well. Cook for 5–7 minutes.
  3. Add ground pork, breaking it up with a spoon. Continue simmering until the pork is fully cooked and the oats are tender (about 10–15 minutes).
  4. Season with salt, pepper, and saffron if using.
  5. Optional: For a smoother texture, blend or strain the mixture.
  6. Serve warm in bowls with rustic bread on the side.

This version is richer and more meat-heavy than what most medieval households would have enjoyed, but it captures the essence: a savory, nourishing bowl rooted in simplicity and sustenance.

Customizing the Dish for Modern Tastes

While the traditional recipe offers a surprisingly enjoyable experience, you can easily tailor medieval gruel to suit modern dietary needs and preferences. Start with the base—a combination of oats and broth—and experiment from there.

Vegetarian or Vegan Variations:

  • Replace pork with mushrooms, lentils, or plant-based ground meat for texture and umami.
  • Use vegetable broth and enrich with garlic, onion, or miso paste for added depth.

Flavor Enhancers:

  • Fresh or dried herbs like thyme, parsley, or rosemary can elevate the dish.
  • Add a splash of soy sauce, Worcestershire, or nutritional yeast to deepen the savoriness.

Modern Comfort Upgrades:

  • Top with a poached egg for richness.
  • Serve with crusty sourdough or drizzle with olive oil or browned butter.

With a few tweaks, this ancient recipe can become a comforting weeknight meal that fits seamlessly into contemporary kitchens.

The Role of Oats in Traditional and Modern Diets

Oats have long been a humble hero of the pantry. In medieval Europe, they were favored by peasants for their affordability and sustenance. In Scotland, oats became the foundation of many traditional dishes—porridge, oatcakes, and bannocks—rooted in centuries of culinary heritage.

Globally, oats have been adapted in various forms: as Nordic rye porridges, in Eastern European kasha, and in the now-popular steel-cut oat bowls topping modern breakfast menus. Their nutrient profile—rich in fiber, protein, and complex carbs—makes them as valuable today as they were in the Middle Ages.

Interestingly, savory oats are making a strong comeback in modern food culture. Chefs and home cooks alike are rediscovering the versatility of oats as a vehicle for broths, cheeses, and proteins—not just fruit and sugar. Medieval gruel may have been an unintentional pioneer of this trend.

Presentation and Serving Suggestions

While gruel won’t win any visual awards by default, thoughtful presentation can elevate it from rustic to refined—especially when served in themed gatherings or historical events.

Medieval-Themed Serving Ideas:

  • Use wooden bowls, trenchers, or rustic pottery to create an immersive experience.
  • Serve with hearty brown bread or ale for authenticity.
  • Add a garnish of saffron strands or fresh herbs for a touch of color.

Pairing Tips:

  • Accompany with root vegetables like roasted turnips, carrots, or parsnips.
  • Complement with pickled items (onions, cabbage) to mimic medieval preservation techniques.

Simple, thoughtful touches can transform a basic bowl of gruel into a centerpiece of historical appreciation or a unique, comforting meal.

Breaking Gruel Myths

The word “gruel” carries a heavy burden of negative connotations. For many, it evokes memories of Dickensian despair or hospital trays of bland, watery mush. But the historical reality is far more nuanced—and flavorful.

One of the biggest myths is that gruel was tasteless. While it may not have been extravagantly seasoned, it was far from flavorless. When prepared with fresh broth, seasoned meat, and even a touch of saffron, gruel becomes a warm, savory dish with satisfying depth.

Another misconception is that gruel was reserved only for the sick or destitute. In truth, it was a practical everyday food consumed across social strata, especially when resources were scarce. Like many traditional dishes around the world, gruel was adaptable, economical, and incredibly functional.

Understanding these myths and debunking them allows us to appreciate the culinary ingenuity of our ancestors—and to embrace simple dishes that nourish both body and history.

Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy

Gruel’s impact extends far beyond the kitchen. It was foundational in stabilizing early agrarian communities by providing a dependable source of nutrition using ingredients that were easy to grow and store. Its role in everyday medieval life was as crucial as that of bread or ale.

From monasteries to peasant homes, the communal act of sharing a pot of gruel fostered a sense of togetherness and sustenance. It supported the young and old, the laborer and the recovering, binding them all through nourishment and necessity.

Today, its legacy lives on in global dishes that mirror its form and function—from congee in Asia to oatmeal in the West. In reimagining gruel, we tap into a culinary lineage that connects us with history, resilience, and the power of simplicity.

Conclusion: The Power of Simplicity in Historic Cuisine

What began as a reluctant culinary experiment ended as a lesson in humility, nourishment, and historical appreciation. Medieval gruel, far from the dreary stereotype, is a dish of substance—simple in preparation but rich in history and meaning.

By revisiting recipes like this, we honor the ingenuity of cooks who made much from little, and we remind ourselves that sustenance isn’t always glamorous. Sometimes, it’s just a warm bowl of oats, slow-cooked with care and shared among friends or family.

In a world that often prizes the extravagant, medieval gruel offers a quiet, enduring reminder: good food doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to be honest.

Related Recipes:

.iij. For to make grewel eforced. Take grewel & do to the fyer withe gode flesch & seeth hit wele. Take the lyre of pork & grynd hit smal and drawe the grewel thorow a straynoure & colour hyt with safroun.
Liber cure cocorum [Sloane MS 1986] (England, 1430)

For gruel of fors. Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe With otene grotes, þat ben so smethe. Whenne hit begynnes wele to alye, þou save of þe þynnest brothe þer by To streyne þy gruel, alle and summe. But furst take oute þy porke þou mun And hak hit smal and grynde hit clene. Cast hit to þo gruel þat streyned bene, Colour hit with safroune and sethe hit wele. For gruel of force serve hom at mele.

To mak grewelle enforced tak mary bones and freche brothe and mak grewelle and draw them throughe a strener then tak pork sodene tender and pick out the bones and the senewes and pille of the skyn and hew it and grind it smale in a mortair and temper it with the same gruelle that is drawen and mak it smothe and let it stond myche by freche pork and salt it and serue it.


To make grewell of forse. Take mary bones of Fresh beef And make goode grewell ther of then draw hit throwgh a streynner Take fayre porke tender sodyn take A way the skynne and the bonys and the senose Then grynde hit yn A morter small And tempyr hit vp with the same grewell that ys drawne make hit smoth let hit stand resonayll by þe flesh seson hit vp with salte and saferon then set hit to the fyre and let hit boyle And serue hit furth.

Each one shows slight variations in meat type, oat preparation, or instructions, but the core idea remains: enrich simple grain with a bit of meat and care, and you’ve got a sustaining meal. 

Have you made gruel before? Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. You might just find yourself going back for seconds.

FAQs

Can I use quick oats instead of steel-cut for medieval gruel?

While quick oats can be used in a pinch, they tend to produce a mushier texture that lacks the hearty bite of steel-cut or Scottish-style oats. For a more authentic and satisfying result, stick with less processed oats.

Is saffron essential or can turmeric be used?

Saffron adds historical accuracy and a subtle floral flavor, but it is expensive. Turmeric can be used as a visual substitute to achieve the golden hue, though it will introduce a slightly earthy taste not found in the original recipe.

How long can leftover gruel be refrigerated?

Gruel stores well for up to 3–4 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a splash of broth or water to loosen the consistency if needed.

Can medieval gruel be prepared in a slow cooker or Instant Pot?

Yes! A slow cooker can simmer the oats and meat together over several hours, enhancing flavor and texture. In an Instant Pot, use the “porridge” or “manual” setting for about 10–12 minutes, followed by natural release.

What are modern equivalents to medieval gruel in global cuisines?

Many cultures have their own version of savory grain porridge. Asian congee, Eastern European barley soups, and Scottish skirlie are all close cousins. Even modern savory oatmeal bowls with egg, greens, and cheese echo the gruel tradition.

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Labels: Harleian MS 279, Pottage or Soup, Oats or Grains, Medieval Recipes, Camp Cooking, Interpreted Recipes

Kitchen Adventures – Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent (Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430))

Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430) - Brwes in lentyn - Broth in Lent 
I hope the holiday season has blessed everyone and that the New Year will bring a years' worth of health, wealth and happiness to you, but most importantly, time for you to share with others. Of course I had to try something with wine in it! Today I tried a rather interesting recipe from the "Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin", which roughly interprets to a "Broth in Lent". I found it an interesting and delicious recipe and I would almost post this into the category of "found" recipes. Why? Most cooks who have prepared a feast will have some if not all of these ingredients left over, and with a bit of time could create this as an extra dish to serve at a meal. 

I think this would be an exceptionally forgiving recipe, for example, you could substitute broth for wine, and vary the spices. The taste testers and I put our heads together and even came up with some suggestions on how to serve it. My preference would be at the beginning of the meal with cheese pipes and a peppery arugula salad. Another suggestion was a side dish to be served with roasted beef and frumenty. Just a few thoughts to take into the new year with you :-)

Yes, this will definitely appear in a future feast---I better start putting in more bids I'm developing quite a list! Perhaps for next year I will start hosting small parties at my house, not only to share my passion with others, but to enjoy the company of good friends.

I have also hit a milestone with this post. I have interpreted or referenced approximately 57 of the 153 pottage recipes found in the Harleain MS 279. I am reaching the point where some of the ingredients are prohibitively expensive to make, or I can't get the ingredients for, or, are things I am not fond (like oysters!). I will continue to work on completing these recipes as best as I can.

.Cxlvij. Brwes in lentyn. — Take AVater & let boyle, and draw a Iyer ]7er-to of Brede, of j^e cromys, w/tA wyne y-now ; lete alle ben wyne almost ; j^en put Jjer-to hony a gode quantyte, l^at it may ben dowcet, j^an putte ponder Pcpir ]>er-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, & Salt, & skalde ]>m^ brewes tender, & serue f[orth].

Cxlvij - Brwes in lentyn. Take Water and let boyle, and draw a lyer ther-to of Brede, of the cromys, with wyne y-now; lete alle ben wyne almost; then put ther-to honey a gode quantyte, that it may ben dowcet, than putte pouder Pepir ther-to, Clowys, Maces, and Saunderys, and Salt, and skalde thin (Note: Thine) brewes tender, and serue forth [correction; sic = f].

147. Brewes (broth) in lent - Take water and let boil and draw a mixture of bread, of the crumbs, with wine enough: let all be wine almost; then put there-to honey a good quantity, that it may be sweet, than put powder pepper there-to, cloves, mace, and sandalwood, and salt and scald your broth tender, and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                     Serves 1 as a main, 2 as a side

3/4 cup water
1/4 cup wine -I used a beautifully fruity red
2 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 tbsp. honey
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp.  mace
2 cloves
1-2 tsp. saunders (opt.)

Soak bread crumbs in wine.  Meanwhile, bring water to boil and stir in honey and spices. Let steep until desired color is reach. Add bread and wine mixture and stir until it has thickened. Strain before serving.

As is, this is a lovely thickened wine sauce or broth.  As I've stated previously, I think it is beautifully versatile for a modern day kitchen.  I added ginger to this in addition to the other spices. This would make a lovely royalty luncheon, or you could throw it together in a pinch as a camp meal as well.  I urge you to experiment with this.

Kitchen Adventures – .lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye - Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

.lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye - Chicken in Garlic Cream Sauce
This dish is unusual and distinguishes itself from other similar dishes found in Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin. The first difference is the use of the garlic in the sauce. It is one of a handful of recipes in the book that calls for it. Secondly, this is one of the few dishes that I believe could be served either as a soup or as a dish of meat with a sauce--that could be me putting modern thought into this dish.

Garlic is a member of the same plant family as onions and like onions, its cultivation is so old as to make its origins unknown. Garlic has been found in Egyptian temples, and it has a long history of medical, not culinary usage. Hippocrates and Dioscurides recommend garlic as a way to treat parasites, respiratory conditions and poor digestion.

Some other items of note in my quick research of garlic and its usage. According to ancient Egyptian records, slaves were given garlic to ward off illness. Pyramid builders were given beer, flatbread, onions and garlic. During the reign of King Tut a healthy male slave could be purchased for fifteen pounds of garlic!

Garlic was placed on piles of stones at crossroads for Hecate, and to protect from demons. It was believes that garlic would cause evil spirits to lose their way. Before going into battle, Greek soldiers would consume garlic as did Greek athletes before a competition. Roman soldiers also ate garlic; it was believed that consuming garlic would inspire them and give them courage.

Many European stories attribute the ability to ward of the "evil eye", the devil, or to protect from evil spirits to garlic. We all know that wearing garlic or hanging garlic in windows, doorways and chimneys will keep vampires away.

.lxxxx. Hennys in Gauncelye.—Take Hennys, an roste hem; take Mylke an Garleke, an grynd it, an do it in a panne, an hewe þin hennys þer-on with ȝolkys of eyron, an coloure it with Safroun an Mylke, an serue forth.

lxxxx - Hennys in Gauncelye. Take Hennys, an roste hem; take Mylke an Garleke, an grynd it, an do it in a panne, an hewe thin hennys ther-on with 3olkys of eyron, an coloure it with Safroun an Mylke, an serue forth.

90 - Hen in Gauncelye - Take hens and roast them; take milk and garlic and grind it, and do it in a pan, and chop your hens there-on with yolks of egg, and color it with saffron and milk and serve forth.

Interpreted Recipe                                                                          Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1/4 pound of chicken (I used chicken breast that I had simmered)
1 cup milk, cream or half and half
2-3 cloves of garlic finely minced
1 egg, or 2 egg yolks
pinch of saffron
Salt and Pepper to taste

I say this phrase a lot, it couldn't have been simpler to put this together. I used a double boiler to heat the milk to a simmer along with the saffron, garlic salt and pepper. Once it was heated I tempered the egg yolks with a bit of the garlic cream and then continued to heat the sauce until it began to thicken. I added my precooked chicken to the sauce and continued to cook a few moments more.

Do not be hesitant with the garlic. I know it sounds like quite a bit, but the cream tempers it quite a bit. I had originally made this with 1 clove, afraid that I would keep away family members and vampires alike. It was ok, but amping up the garlic made the dish.

This could be served as a creamy soup, or, as a sauce on the side of a dish of chicken and therefore as a dish of meat served with a broth as opposed to a dish of meat served with a sauce. This makes the dish very versatile about where it can fit in the menu.

The taste testers and I both enjoyed this dish. I would serve this at a luncheon, a lunch tavern, or even at a feast. It has gone into my "must serve again" list.

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Du fait de cuisine (France, 1420 - Elizabeth Cook, trans.)

46. Now it remains to be known with what sauce one should eat the pilgrim capons: the pilgrim capons should be eaten with the jance, and to advise the sauce-maker who should make it take good almonds and blanch and clean them very well and bray them very well; and take the inside of white bread according to the quantity which he needs, and let him have the best white wine which he can get in which he should put his bread to soak, and with verjuice; and when his almonds are well brayed put in a little garlic to bray with them; and take white ginger and grains of paradise according to the quantity of sauce which he needs, and strain all this together and draw it up with the said white wine and a little verjuice and salt also, and put it to boil in a fair and clean pot.

And if the staffs are lampreys make lamprey sauce in the manner which is devised above under lamprey pasty.

And if they are eels, green garlic made with sorrel and verjuice.

Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334]
(England, 1425)

Gaunsell Gaunsell for gese. Take floure, and tempur hit with gode cowe mylke, and make hit thynne, and colour hit with saffron; and take garlek, and stamp hit, and do therto, and boyle hit, and serve hit fbrthe.

A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)

To mak hennes in gauncelle tak and rost your hennes then tak garlik and mold it with mylk and put it in a pan then hew your henne and put ther to and mele it withyolks of eggs and colour it with saffron and boile it well and serue it.

Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen (Netherlands, ca. 1510 - C. van Tets, trans.)

To make a ganselsie outside fasting time. Take bread, garlic, raw egg yolks and saffron. One shall grind this all together and pass it through a strainer with wine or with sweet milk and one simmers it over the fire until it is thick. With this one serves fried/roast chicken; in the winter, goose or capons.

Kitchen Adventures – lxxiiij - Arbolettys - Cheese Soup (Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430))

lxxiiij - Arbolettys - Cheese Soup
It was snowing out today, grey and dreary, but a perfect day to cook up comfort food and what could be more comforting than something cheesy and warm? Again I veered off course from the planned dishes I had posted I was going to make to try another one that caught my interest from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin.  This dish is usually interpreted as a kind of a scrambled egg dish, and there are numerous interpretations posted online.  However, I chose to use the same interpretation as I did for Papyns, and instead created a luxuriously velvety cheese soup worthy to be served to any king. 

.lxxiiij. Arbolettys.—Take Milke, Boter an Chese, & boyle in fere; þen take eyroun, & cast þer-to; þan take Percely & Sawge & hacke it smal, & take pouder Gyngere & Galyngale, and caste it þer-to, and þan serue it forth.

lxxiiij - Arbolettys. Take Milke, Boter an Chese, and boyle in fere; then take eyroun, and cast ther-to; than take Percely and Sawge and hacke it smal, and take pouder Gyngere and Galyngale, and caste it ther-to, and than serue it forth.

74 - Arbolettys. - Take milk, butter and cheese, and boil in together: then take eggs, and caste there-to; than take parsley and sage and hack it small, and take powder ginger and galingale, and caste it there-to, and then serve it forth. 

Interpreted Recipe                                                         Serves 1 as main, 2 as side

1 cup milk
2 tbsp butter
1/4 cup or to taste cheese (I used a mixture of sharp and mild cheddar. Other period appropriate cheeses include; brie, camembert, cottage, emmenthal, gruyére, mozzarella; parmesan and ricotta)
2 eggs
1 tsp. each parsley and sage
1/8 tsp. ginger and galingale
**Salt and Pepper to taste - while not called for in the original instructions, modern tastes will appreciate the addition

As I have learned when cooking with milk based dishes it is always best to use a double broiler to prevent the milk from burning.  Add milk and butter to a double broiler and heat until the milk begins to simmer, add the cheese and stir constantly while the cheese melts into the milk and butter mixture.  Beat the eggs with the herbs and spices, temper with a little bit of the cheese mixture and return to the pan.  Cook until the soup has thickened to your desired consistency. 

One of my taste testers is a friend who very seldom says "This is delicious!" when it comes to testing food from this era.  Not only did I get that high praise, I also received instructions that this *MUST* be served at an event in the future. No fears there, I will be serving this again.  It was easy to put together and delicious.  Another taste tester has promised not to include this in the book he plans on writing on "How I Survived Being a Taste Tester". None of my teens were available--nobody complained it meant more soup for the adults.

I know that my interpretation is very different then what you will find if you research other interpretations.  Why? Because of the instructions themselves-we are told to boil together milk, butter and cheese and then to add eggs.  It does NOT specify how the eggs are to be added.  However, looking at similar recipes for papyns and cream boiled from the same manuscript led me to conclude that the end dish should resemble custard and not scrambled eggs. 

Papyns, which creates a sweet custard instructs us to "take the yolks of eggs drawn through a strainer and caste thereto" into a mixture of milk and flour that had been brought to a boil, and then allowed to cool. Similar instructions are found in the boiled cream recipe.  My conclusion then is that these three recipes should all yield similar consistencies with different flavors.  
20. Papyns - Take fair milk and flour, an draw through a strainer, an set it over the fire, an let it boil awhile: than take it out an let it cool: then take yolks of eggs drawn through a strainer and caste thereto; than take sugar a good quantity, an cast there-to, an a little salt an set it on the fire till it be somewhat thick, but let it not boil fully, an stir it well, an put it on a dish all broad, and serve forth running. 
13. Cream Boiled - Take cream or milk and bread of pandemain, or else of tender bread, an break it on the cream, or else in the milk, an set it on the fire till it be warm hot; and through a strainer throw it, and put into a fair pot, an set it on the fire, an stir evermore: an when it is almost boiled, take fair yolks of eggs, and draw them through a strainer, and cast them there-to, and let them stand over the fire till it boil almost, an till it be skillfully (reasonably) thick; than cast a ladle full, or more or less, of butter there-to, and a good quantity of white sugar, and a little salt, and then dress it on a dish in manner of mortrews.